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Kebin

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The build thread for my 4AGZE powered AE95 Toyota Corolla 4WD wagon.

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{Intro + Purchase}
I purchased my 1989 Toyota Corolla AE95 SR5 AWD Wagon in June 2006. I found it on eBay (where else :P) and paid a tidy sum of $500 for it. Saved from the scrap yard. It had a non-existent clutch, a couple of smallish dents, a/c gasless, no rego and the red paint was completely faded. Apart from those few minor things it was fairly straight all round. At that time I had already shopped around trading post etc. and I found the average price for a decent AE95 was $3000 so really I was happy with what I got. The main reasons for indulging in this form of conversion/artform was; 1. the fact it was not very common,  2. being able to take it soft roading on the beach on the weekends and 3. choosing an ugly car and doing it up 😛

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{Repairs + Blue slip}
First up on the fix list was the clutch. Begun was the search for a temporary clutch. Pricing a new clutch kit proved not to be an option as it would only be used for like 250kms. So I placed a WTB thread on a few forums. Toymods came through and I picked up a 4agze clutch and pressure plate from an ae92 with plenty of meat. Thanks Clint! (peter costello on the forums).
Now the task to replace the clutch…. I soon realised why I got the wagon cheap. The previous owner must have realised once the clutch gave up the cost to replace it wasn’t worth it. What a bitch it is to remove the gearbox. I found out later that the Toyota workshop manual recommends removing entire motor to change clutch and gives a removal and replacement time of 12 hours. Whoa….
Silly me removed the gearbox with the motor still in the car 😛

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After the clutch fitted and working all sweet I went over the car and fixed/serviced all the safety things. I then took it in for blue slip… the fellas went over it did a brake test and all the necessary checks. They ended up informing me I had movement in the steering rack -> worn out rack end. They were nice enough to let me fix it then bring it back to sign it off.
Finally I had it registered and I could sink deeper into my project.

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Edited by Kebin
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{Engine Donor + Clean up}
I had previously picked up an ae82 Corolla seca with an AE101 4AGZE conversion already in it. After using it as a daily for a few months I decided fwd wasn’t for me :P
Out came the motor and all the dodgy mods to fit it lol

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With the motor on the engine stand I though I’d give the motor a light freshen up. The usual deal timing belt, tensioners, new belts, degreasing etc.

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While the motor is out I researched the common age faults with 4agze motors > dirty idles.
Recommended fixes are cleaning out the throttle body. I pulled mine off with surrounding piping and to my disgust filled up with sludgy gunky oily crap (common) obviously previous owner never heard of throttle body cleaning. Stripped apart made cleaning the parts tons easier. The below pics show how grimy some of the parts were.

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{ABV Modification}
Whilst cleaning the throttle body parts I decided to carry out the common mod done to the air bypass valve. It supposedly stops the bleed off of boost at max boost. I made up a small plate to block off the section where the abv was. Sufficient use of gasket goo all round J

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Alternatively the diagram below shows another mod to keep the abv closed allowing higher boost levels to be achieved. I chose to just plate off the abv and remove the blue abv vsv.

ABV+mod.png

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{Out With The Old}
With the motor so fresh and so clean it was time to remove the boat anchor 4afe that was still running strong in the engine bay. This time I did it the right way and dropped out the motor with gearbox/transfer case. Pretty easy really: jack up car> unbolt everything> lower motor to the ground> further raise up car> slide out motor from underneath car> done!

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{Fitting the Gearbox}
Now the major part of the conversion is bolting up the original gear box + transfer case to the new motor. The 4afe has a cut out on one section of the ribbing on the block to allow the transfer case to wrap around the side of the motor. This area is on the inlet side just before the flywheel below the starter motor. I have heard that silvertop 20valve motors have this required cut out in the block. The 20v conversion is a lot more common due to this fact (apparently) I’m yet to confirm this. (EDIT: confirmed 20V motor requires grinding).

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Now from research on the forums the mod required to fit the transfer case is to cut/grind out the excess ribbing. Now this may seem dodgy but it’s the only way it will fit. So away I went grinding away at the ribbing slowly bit by bit. 

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I ended up trial fitting the box on the motor about 15 times each time removing it to grind a lil more till it fitted like a glove. I also grinded down some of the gearbox housing to help with the fitting process.

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Home made skateboard in conjunction with engine crane FTW! What a pain to fit and remove gearbox to motor so so many times though….. It took me almost a whole day to mod the motor enough till I had about 5 mm clearance between the block and transfer case. 
Remember the sump pan seal as been weakened so just make sure plenty of gasket maker is used to reseal sump pan to the engine and you should be right.

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{Diff Lock Solution}
Once fitting the 4AGZE motor you will find that the sc12 supercharger body takes up the space that the factory diff lock actuator mounts. The actuator is largish in size and is vacuum operated to push and pull a shaft on the side of the transfer case that in turn locks the rear diff. It mounts in the same area which the supercharger occupies. 

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The only way to keep the original diff lock setup is to remove the sc12 and turbo your motor. Otherwise in keeping your sc12 as I have done, you lose the factory diff lock setup. While my motor was out I thought about how I could get around it esp. with space constrictions. I needed something motorized that would move back and forth about 20mm. Amongst my junk collection I found a couple of central door locking actuators. The stroke of the actuators was perfect for what I wanted. I made up brackets and a plate out of aluminium to mount the two actuators. In theory a motorized actuation isn’t really suitable due to wear and tear on the motors. Most diff locks are air operated too. Door actuators are cheap enough to replace. I haven’t finished wiring up the diff lock yet but have tested its operation with a 12 volt battery and it works fine just have to test it on the road. Its not the ideal reliable setup but it could work. Sooner or later I’ll make an air locker.

EDIT - I later worked out that this will not work. An air operated 2way ram would be the most ideal substitute for this application! Although ditching the SC12 and converting to turbo would by far be the most beneficial upgrade.

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{Steering Rack Solution}
The AE95 has a power steering rack with a vacuum assist incorporated to the original pump on the 4afe motor. The 4agze power steer pump does not feature this. The ae101 vacuum assist is like most other motors where it is fed into the actual steering rack. It then feeds to the idle up valve on the rear of the throttle body. The hydraulic lines are routed differently between the two motors. Below are AE92 4afe steering racks same as AE95's.

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My solution was to fit an ae92 sx steering rack or similar as they have they vacuum assist on the rack itself. Scouring the forums I scored a leftover steering rack and front brake setup from an AE111 20v blacktop front cut. Quick measurements came up with the AE111 rack being the same dimensions as the AE95 rack. Straight bolt in. Be sure to get all the hydralic lines too as they bolt up to the AE101 steering pump. Everything just fits perfectly! Thanks to GBC_069 for the parts.

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{In With The New (finally)}
With the AE101 4agze motor bolted up to the AE95 gearbox I was ready to fit it back into the wagon. Easy really just slide it under the raised car using the skateboard then lower the car back down on top of it. Then lift the engine to the engine mounts and bolt it all up…. Done!

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{Wiring It For Broom Broom}
Now for the fun part> the wiring! Since the motor was in a previous conversion a lot of it was already modified…. Poorly. So I stripped everything till I had it all laid out as per factory spec. 
6-Pin black power plug:
The factory harness was almost routed the same except for the main power feed 6pin plug (or lack thereof) which ends up behind the drivers side strut tower. This plug needs to be both extended and re-routed to the ae95 main power plug (black) located under the ashtray in the centre console. I just cut off the 4afe engine side of the plug and grafted it to the ae101 loom for the factory feel ;)

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Fuse box:
Next up was wiring up the ae95 engine bay fuse box up to the ae101 loom. Pretty much straight forward as the wire colours matched. I also wired up the thermo fan trigger (Light Green) to the temp sensor on the thermostat housing (Light Green/black). A simple clean up of the battery terminal wiring was also carried out. The a/c wiring needs to be connected to the ae95 setup. This is easy enough as the a/c clutch trigger (Black/white) is sitting in a 2pin plug beside the fuse box. The gze trigger wire to the compressor is Blue/Yellow. Don’t confuse this as being a fuel pump wire either, it runs from the engine bay fuse box to the compressor only. Also the ae95 a/c amplifier needs a return signal to confirm the clutch is engaged. Instead of running another wire from the compressor I just used the leftover wire at the fusebox (Red/white) which runs to the black gze connector in the cabin. I connected this wire (Red/white) to the clutch trigger wire (Blue/yellow). All  that is left to do is change the plugs of the reverse light switch on the gearbox.
 
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Edited by Kebin
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Body loom plugs:
The ae101 wiring loom has two extra left over plugs that reside alongside the main ecu plugs. One plug being black and the other being grey. These two plugs are body specific circuits such as instrument cluster and reverse lights. I found this website after I figured out each circuit L http://www.soniccreation.com/electrical_main.htm This website is very helpful in determining which wire is which. The below chart I have drawn up shows which wire goes where:

AE95-4agzeInteriorBodyWiringchart.jpg

If my memory serves right that should pretty much be it. Actually at first the car didn’t start I checked all the vitals like battery feeds and fuel pressure. They were good but I had no spark. I eventually found that the coil packs had no earth J I forgot to bolt down the igniter to the chassis. Once that was done it started first go. YAY. 

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Tacho:
Like all later generation 4agze motors the tacho outputs don’t work with the original dash’s in ADM corollas due to the waste spark ignition setup. I researched for a solution all over the net and I found the easiest fix was to build the following tacho booster circuit.

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Here I just piggybacked off the coil packs negative wires:

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{Bonnet Scoop}

My old AE101 scoop had seen better days and now sported various cracks and abuse. Instead of  finding another second hand bonnet scoop I opted to find a scoop that wouldn’t be so obvious. I found that the scoops off later model Nissan Patrols were a tad smaller and looked the part.

Straight forward fit: measure twice cut once.
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{Exhaust}

Since the car was running it was time for the exhaust. Took the car down to Performance Exhaust Center in Northmead and got them to fit a 2 ¼” mandrel bent exhaust, 2.5” Cat and a new flex joint below engine cross member…. Pretty straight forward

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{Hide That Back Window!}

The faded red paint would never appeal to me even if I lived in denial and called it the “sleeper” look, no matter what the ae95 will always look shit :p It took me a while to decide a colour that would stand out and also take attention away from the ugly rear window. After a couple of quick photo shopped designs and colours were put together by a good mate of mine (hate you Chris :p) I decided I liked the two tone look and the red/black scheme was final. On the plus side the ugly arse rear windows wouldn’t look so hideous and out of place with the black paint on top.

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(cont.....)

Since the motor was running sweet, it was time to strip it down and prepare to say good bye to the faded red paint and hello to a new car J 

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Over a few months of mucking about (inappropriate rain), my wagon eventually made it to the painters where it only took a week to get painted.  For the colours I chose Subaru Obsidian Black and Mitsubishi Molten Red. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out.

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After getting it home I began the process of putting it back together. I couldn’t justify putting old window moulds over fresh paint so the search for part numbers came easy with the aid of the Toyota EPC sourced from peter (InfoTech) I contacted my friend at Castle Hill Toyota (what can't they get?) and a special order was made to Japan. In a couple of weeks my order came in. I think they had to remake everything hehehe. Now the wagon was looking brand new and my pocket feeling super sore.

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