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Need help with a starlet


scottsteele

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Hello, I'm new to the site, just came across it while searching for how to fix my recently aquired 1983 starlet.  I've used the search function and haven't been able to fix it yet.  The previous owner hooked the battery up backwards, when purchased the car wouldn't do anything.  I replaced a wire coming off the battery and it has power now and will turn over.  I don't think the injectors are pulsing.  The ecu is sending the pulse signal, I've replaced the solenoid resistor with one from a junkyard(don't know if it's good or not).  Both wires going to the injectors are hot.  I can pour gas in the intake and it will run.  When I turn the engine over the injectors aren't pulsing.  Can anyone give me some advice where I can get this cool car back on the road?  Thanks

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Was it running recently, or has it sat for a  few years??  Just wondering of its a resin/dirt problem rather than electrical.

Have you got a wiring diagram for it? I suppose you can at least test the  injector circuit within the injectors.

Fuel pump pressure OK??

Does anything else not work??

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Hi Scott,

              Welcome aboard !   it sounds like the wire you replaced from the battery, was probably the "fusible link".  If it was thicker, you would probably have described it as a cable.

Not sure whether a 34 year old Starlet had any form of reverse polarity protection, built in, on things like the EFI  controls.  Generally, electronics does not take kindly to have reverse  polarity applied. You need to go through everything electrical in the car, with a check list, of what still works, & what does not. That may provide some additional clues.  Horn, lights, gauges, fans, etc. My guess is that it will electronics failure, most likely.  As the main electronic device is the ECU, & it is the engine that will not run, then that is probably the culprit. Remember, the EFI Starlets had conventional distributor ignition, so that will be why you obtain a spark. The ECU, to my knowledge, has no control at all over the ignition system.

The only quick & simple way to know whether the ECU, is your issue, is to substitute with a known working one.

P.S.   If wires going to the injectors are hot, then either the injector coil has failed or the driver that fires the injectors have failed & are permanently on.

Cheers Banjo 

Edited by Banjo
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Thanks for the replies, the only thing I can locate not working is the fuel gauge.  I have fuel pressure, I used a noid tester and the light does not light up while testing injectors.  With a test light both wires are hot going to the injectors.  The "IG-injector pulse signal" pin from the ECU is pulsing.  

Is the injector coil sometimes referred to as the solenoid resistor?  If so, I did pick one up from a local salvage yard from a 86 mr2.

Also, I'm guessing I can pull the ECU and cross reference the numbers to see if it was used on other vehicles?  I don't think I will run across another starlet in my area to swap out the ECU.

Thanks for the help.

 

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Hi Scott,

               The fuel guage not working makes sense, & is what you would expect with a polarity reversal.  The DC supply feed to the fuel guage & temperature guage is usually a regulated voltage of around 7 - 10Vdc, depending on the model.  These regulators in the Starlet, are most probably solid state, & it has been made U/S from the reversal.

My guess is the ECU / ECM is U/S also.

Off memory, the Starlet EFI only uses just a single injector.   You could take the injector out, & take it to a injector cleaning service, which should have the equipment to test whether it is working.

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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Banjo, thanks for the help.  I think I'll go ahead and get an ECU on the way.  

Dave, I live in South Mississippi.  A friend of mine who knows I like oddball cars told me about it.  It belonged to a doctor who passed away that towed it behind a motor home.  Car is really clean with no rust. I hate to see things like it disappear and be scrapped.  I paid $300 for it and hope to get it on the road.

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ohhh man that's cool. We are gonna need more pictures. Its rear wheel drive yeah?

No crazy american bumpers on that model?

If the ECU as as simple as i think it is, i would start by trying to find a pin out for the ECU. then checking for +12v (constant), +12v ignition (tells the ecu to turn on), a good ground. 

If you have those things. Now it would be time to make sure that whatever triggers the ECU to tell the motor it is spinning is working. which is probably a signal from the distributor. I dunno the details but its probably a hall effect sensor or similar, which generally should not give any trouble, but i guess its possible its had it.

If it is determined that the ECU is not working, it might pay to open it up and check for damaged components or dry solder joints. ~35yrs old electronics can have dry solder joints, quick tap with the soldering iron could fix them.  

 

 

 

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Yeah, it's a rear wheel drive, black bumpers.  I found a pin out of the ecm on this website.  I have power to batt and b+ at the ecm, and good grounds.  Also pin STA which is "ecu start signal" is hot.  Here are a couple more pics.  Not perfect, but to me nice for an untouched 1983.

20180405_191835.jpg

20180405_191814.jpg

20180406_114354.jpg

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