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KE20 alt wiring


Rolln666KE20

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Are you replacing an existing alternator for one with a larger output capacity ?   Does the existing alternator have an external, or internal regulator ?   If external, is it a switching relay type or a solid state one ?  Is there any external wiring already present ?

This is a fairly easy modification, which requires just a few mods for charge warning light on the dash.

Sorry about all the questions, but need to know, to give you the right answer.

A few pics of the existing setup, would assist.

Have you got a new or alternate alternator there ready to go in ?  If so, take a couple of pics of it, especially the rear connection face.

Cheers Banjo

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Oh that is beautiful !   I'm in love, & so jealous.  Love the colour.  Where abouts are you located.

More pics of this beautiful example of a KE20 please !

The alternator you have is a Bosch, of probably 35A -40A capacity.  It has an internal regulator, so is very easy to wire up.

I'll sketch you up a simple wiring diagram tomorrow morning, & post here.

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo
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OK, here we go.

Being a KE20, the car was most probably originally fitted with an alternator, with an external regulator box.  This may or may not be still fitted, depending on what has been done to it, over the past 40+ years.  Even my KE30 2 door (1974) with original 3K, had an external regulator.  If your KE20 still has one, then it will look like the following pic.

365759119_DensoExternalRegulator.JPG.d6263b284a7687ecb3aff7c0127a0657.JPG

This could be mounted on the other side (drivers side) of the engine, to the alternator.  I remember that is where mine was in the KE30.

This will no longer be required, so if fitted, unplug it and remove it.

The wiring up of your Bosch alternator is super simple, as it has the solid state regulator built in.  It only requires two (2) connections plus the return chassis/ground, which is provided by the alternator mechanical connection to the engine block. Ensure the engine block has a good heavy chassis cable connection, & that mating faces at both ends are clean.

It might be a good idea to remove the regulator and check the slip rings & carbon brushes before fitting.

523176613_BoschalternatorWiring.thumb.jpg.762abd965d4806294754167fcf2a48b8.jpg

The most important wire is the heavy wire between the positive terminal of the battery & the big threaded terminal on the rear of the alternator, often labelled "B" for battery.  This lead should have a fusible link between the battery terminal & the alternator.  Your fusible link may or may not still exist.  They are usually, very close to the battery itself.

I would be inclined to use a 40A or 50A Maxi fuse fitted to an inline fuse holder, like the following.

611214351_MaxiFuseHolder.JPG.084b77bf245ce94be8726e2e330af0e4.JPG

That's all that is required to get your car running.  There is only the "charge" warning light in the dash to connect up.  There is no wiring required here. It is just a case of finding the "charge" light wire, & connecting it to the "plug-in" "D" terminal on the rear of the alternator.

I can't tell you what colour this wire is, as I don't know, but yellow, or yellow/white appears to be used on a number of other early model Corollas.

The "charge" wire will be one of the six (6) wires in the plug for the original external regulator.  It can be located by putting a test lamp from chassis to each of the six (6) wires in turn, with the ignition on.  One of them will make the charge light, illuminate rather dimly, as it is two 12V bulbs in series.The remaining five (5) wires, will mainly go to a connector that plugged into the original alternator, without an internal regulator. Connect the charge warning light wire that you have identified, to any of the remaining wires that go to the alternator harness plug.  These wires usually pass under the radiator in the wiring loom. I always just cut the plugs off at both ends, as you might one day need to run a wire from one side of the engine bay to the other. Connect this wire at the alternator end, to the "D" terminal, with an insulated "spade" terminal, if you haven't got the Bosch plastic plug.

That's it, & should get you going. Trust that assists, but if you still have questions, give us a yell.

You didn't say where you are located.  Are you & the KE20 here in Australia ? 

I look forward to seeing these pics.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

Edited by Banjo
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Thanks for the pics !  It is absolutely beautiful, & "balanced" aesthetically, both inside & out.  Would love to know the history of your KE20.  I'm presuming that it runs already.

I'm also in Brisbane, (southside) & would only be too willing to help you "electrically", if you need help or get stuck.

This beauty must see the open road soon, to be really appreciated.  Does it have a 4 or 5 speed gearbox ?  There will be a few people on this forum "drooling".

Cheers Banjo

 

 

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Its should be getting its road worthy today (fingers crossed) she runs and drives like a dream. Running 4k with 4 speed but I'll look for a 5 speed soon as I know they both straight up. I love bayside. The only thing electrical left is the alternator. I'll see how I go but I wouldn't mind a hand my brother is helping out. Shes been in a garage since 2007 and has just had a buff and clean out its a little weapon and down the track will get a 1JZ as the diff, brakes, suspension are already upgraded

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I've got my fingers crossed for you also, that she gets her roadworthy today OK. Wow !  10 + years, just sitting there, wanting to get out of the garage, & onto the open road.

5 speed gearbox is a must.  Gives the 4K a whole new lease of life, for cruising.   What diff & ratio has it presently got ?

I'm over Bayside often, as I do contracting work at Redland Hospital.

Give me a yell, as I'm only too happy to help you & your brother, with any electrical issues, on the KE20.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

 

 

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Finding a 5 speed is definitely the best step i know exactly what you mean they hum perfectly on the motorway in 5th.

Its got a shortened commador diff in it have no idea of ratio but its solid as fuck and the diff head is massive compared to a k series diff. 

Thanks for being so helpful mate good to see theres still people around who love these cars and want to help out.

I live in Manly

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Wow !  A 1JZ in a KE20.  I know it has been done before, but it's a big ask, getting a 6 cylinder in-line, shoehorned into the KE20's engine bay.  I believe the whole rear fire wall has to come out, & be completely reworked.   0KE-020, has a 2JZ in it, I believe.

There was a write up, I read about a guy here who fitted one to a Rolla panel van, which is interesting.

https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/600rwhp-1jz-toyota-corolla-panel-van-sleeper-readers-car-of-the-week

Compliance for road use would be more than difficult me thinks ?

Cheers Banjo

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Good morning !

How did you go with the road worthy yesterday ?

If you need to me to come across town, to Manly, to assist you in getting any electrics going, then just give me a yell.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

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