Clapped out's flat knacker slapper!

[parrot]

It looks great!  How does it go?  I would think the trial and error is always an expectation with anything like this though.

[Clapped out]

C

3 hours ago, parrot said:

It looks great!  How does it go?  I would think the trial and error is always an expectation with anything like this though.

Cheers mate, I really appreciate your comment!👍👍 don't get me wrong, it's no race car, although it's really opened up the little 4k, torque has improved dramatically, revs as it should with no hesitation or miss firing in the top end of the rev range, only issue is heat soak is a major problem, if I drive it anywhere I've gotta keep it parked up for at least an hour once turned off otherwise I've got no hope in starting it.😩😩😩

[Banjo]

Really awesome conclusion to a long project, Mate ! (aren't they always)  Lot of quality workmanship & a lot of hard work all over; but particularly under the bonnet.

I'm usually not a fan of "black background engine bays"; but on your KE it looks really good; especially with the highlighting of the rocker cover & fabricated inlet tube, in blue, the same as the body colour.  I see you removed the mechanical fan, so I'm guessing there is an electric fan hiding down behind the aluminium radiator ?

I'm guessing the master cylinder is original, as there is the bracket attached to the front thereof, to support the mechanical clutch cable.  I did a Pajero swap years ago, & I'd forgotten that KE's had that big rectangular master cylinder.  When I first looked at the engine bay picture, I thought, "how the hell did He fit the alternator down there under all that ?"  I guess the turbo is up high enough, to just clear the alternator ?   Battery move to the other side is always a good move, in KEs, but I guess was "compulsory" in your build.  Can't remember  anyone on here ever using a TEFBA radiator filter.  It fits well where you have it.  Seeing you've been driving it a bit, has the filter worked for you ?

I was thinking to myself; I wonder if you are a plumber ? Lots of essential plumbing under the hood, but well done; as never easy to get a good result.

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited April 10, 2023 by Banjo

[Clapped out]

8 hours ago, Banjo said:

Really awesome conclusion to a long project, Mate ! (aren't they always)  Lot of quality workmanship & a lot of hard work all over; but particularly under the bonnet.

I'm usually not a fan of "black background engine bays"; but on your KE it looks really good; especially with the highlighting of the rocker cover & fabricated inlet tube, in blue, the same as the body colour.  I see you removed the mechanical fan, so I'm guessing there is an electric fan hiding down behind the aluminium radiator ?

I'm guessing the master cylinder is original, as there is the bracket attached to the front thereof, to support the mechanical clutch cable.  I did a Pajero swap years ago, & I'd forgotten that KE's had that big rectangular master cylinder.  When I first looked at the engine bay pick, I thought, "how the hell did He fit the alternator down there under all that ?"  I guess the turbo is up high enough, to just clear the alternator ?   Battery move to the other side is always a good move, in KEs, but I guess was "compulsory" in your build.  Can't remember  anyone on here ever using a TEFBA radiator filter.  It fits well where you have it.  Seeing you've been driving it a bit, has the filter worked for you ?

I was thinking to myself; I wonder if you are a plumber ? Lots of essential plumbing under the hood, but well done; as never easy to get a good result.

Cheers Banjo

 

Hi banjo, cheers for the kind words and appreciation!! 

Yes, I practically done everything myself (with the help from the wife and a great mate) from paint and panel, tinting windows, suspension, mechanical, interior etc just to prove to myself that a budget build could be accomplished. One thing I can't take credit for is the turbo fabrication, I bought the setup already done and just improved on it.

 

Yes, unfortunately I had to remove the engine fan due to the drain line from the turbo, if I could have kept the original engine fan and shroud, I certainly would have as I find they are way more efficient in keeping engine temps down to a normal level.

The complete braking system is from a ke55 and isn't the native system normally in the early ke30's, don't get me wrong, it's certainly tight in there for a ke engine bay.

I run the tefba filters on all my cars, in my opinion they're Fantastic and do a great job, never had an issue in the last 20+ years using them. They catch crud that I never thought would have been in there.

Na, I'm not a plumber by any means, just a tight arse that doesn't want to spend money.🤣🤣

 

I've added a few pictures to help explain.

Edited April 10, 2023 by Clapped out
Miss type

[Banjo]

Tah !    I can now see that alternator tucked down under there.  Thanks for the good comments re the TEFBA radiator filter.  I'll definitely have to get myself one of those.  I've been thinking about it for a while.

 

Sad about the heat soak issue !  Would worry me that if it's that bad; that the rear cylinders could be running at a pretty high temps, without some recirculation of coolant, from the back of the block.  Most piston & rings failures on K Series engines, are on cylinder 4. I have a K series engine here in the workshop, which will atest to that; & it was just stock standard.

 

My experiments indicated that the removal of the mechanical fan, & using a thermostatically controlled electric fan is the very best option.  That mechanical fan steals so much power.   The ram effect of air passing through the radiator, only gets impeded by those fans.   I'm interested as to where these two hoses go to.

 

 

 

The one that appears to be connected to the front of the sump, appears to be scavenging.  Not sure where the water hose to the return side of the water pump is connected to.

 

I read your comment earlier on in this thread, that you had locked the dissy up.  Is this a contstant static ignition advance setting, or is the dissy just providing a trigger to an simple single output ECU, which uses the dizzie, to direct the single coil, to the correct spark plug/cylinder.   If so; that could also not assist, in your restarting issues, when the engine is hot. Is the electric fan wired up, so that it runs on, after the engine is switched off ?

 

Sorry about all the questions, but I'm really interested.  Particularly, as you've put so much effeort into it, but there are still some operational "issues".

 

Cheers Banjo

 

 

Edited April 10, 2023 by Banjo

[Clapped out]

19 minutes ago, Banjo said:

Tah !    I can now see that alternator tucked down under there.  Thanks for the good comments re the TEFBA radiator filter.  I'll definitely have to get myself one of those.  I've been thinking about it for a while.

 

Sad about the heat soak issue !  Would worry me that if it's that bad; that the rear cylinders could be running at a pretty high temps, without some recirculation of coolant, from the back of the block.  Most piston & rings failures on K Series engines, are on cylinder 4. I have a K series engine here in the workshop, which will atest to that; & it was just stock standard.

 

My experiments indicated that the removal of the mechanical fan, & using a thermostatically controlled electric fan is the very best option.  That mechanical fan steals so much power.   The ram effect of air passing through the radiator, only gets impeded by those fans.   I'm interested as to where these two hoses go to.

 

 

 

The one that appears to be connected to the front of the sump, appears to be scavenging.  Not sure where the water hose to the return side of the water pump is connected to.

 

I read your comment earlier on in this thread, that you had locked the dissy up.  Is this a contstant static ignition advance setting, or is the dissy just providing a trigger to an simple single output ECU, which uses the dizzie, to direct the single coil, to the correct spark plug/cylinder.   If so; that could also not assist, in your restarting issues, when the engine is hot. Is the electric fan wired up, so that it runs on, after the engine is switched off ?

 

Sorry about all the questions, but I'm really interested.  Particularly, as you've put so much effeort into it, but there are still some operational "issues".

 

Cheers Banjo

 

 

I should have been a little more detailed with the heat soak issues, my bad, the problem isn't with the engine running hot or outside it's normal operating temperature, the issue lyes with the hot side of the engine, with the heat generated by the turbo, it transfers the heat to the carburettor and associated pipe work due to positioning of the turbo so close to everything.😩 It practically boils the petrol in the fuel bowl once turned off and sitting. I've tried to eliminate the issue by an isolating switch to the fuel pump so I can run it dry of petrol before the engine turns off, seems to help a great deal.

 

Ah yes, the hose that connects to the front of the sump is the oil drain line from the turbo, the hose from the water pump is the turbo coolant return line, the feed line I've tapped into the top radiator hose water outlet.😃

The distributor side of things is just a standard 5k electronic distributor, I've removed the weights and wired the mechanical advance shut so it's constantly set at 8degrees. Nothing flash here that's for sure.🤣🤣 And in saying that, I've had to run much colder range spark plugs in order for it to run right whilst operating under boost, that certainly wouldn't be helping with hot starts either.😩

 

And yes, the thermo fan is wired to a temperature switch located in the lower thermostat housing, turns on and off with the ignition.

 

Cheers.👍

[altezzaclub]

You don't want to vent the bonnet?  A rearwards facing one right above the carb that sucks air out when you drive and the lets hot air rise and go out when you stop.

I'm working on one for the Evo3 as we suffer heat problems at the radiator from oil cooler and intercooler being in front, and there's no place for hot air to exit around the back of the bonnet. Evos already have vents facing backwards at the front, but with  sump guard on its still not enough open area to get good air flow out from the engine bay.

[Banjo]

The old age question !  How do you squeeze all the parts into a smallish engine bay, to result in relatively cool air, finally entering the inlet manifold or plenum ?

 

Now our friends in Europe in Nordic countries don't necessarily have this issue, but here in Oz, & other hot climates, it is a big problem; once you want to create HP, from dear little olde engines, which the Japanese designers never anticipated; ever being put to this task.

 

 

This picture clearly & certainly demonstrates the issues we face, with intake, turbo & carby all next to each other.

 

There are just so many parts that need cooling.

 

The radiator, an oil cooler, an airconditioner radiator, & an intercooler or cold air intake, depending on whether you have a turbo or not.

 

They all are needing space down at the lower front of the engine, which just isn't available, for all of them. 

 

Down low; because the lower these are fitted, the cooler the intake air.

 

There are a few things, that can be achieved, in terms of airflows through the engine bay, that "will assist".

 

Ideally, we don't want to draw air out of the engine bay, in an upwards manner, using upward rear facing bonnet outlets; unless you like stopping at regular intervals, to clean the film off the windscreen.  Ideally, the air should pass over the engine, & down under the car, & out the back.

 

There are several places this can be accomplished.

 

1.  Remove the stone tray.  Now that may not be an option, if you are rallying on dirt roads, but the engine stone tray, does hinder airflow into the engine bay, from under the car.

 

2.  Open up the panels & supports, either side of the radiator, after repositioning the horn/s.

 

3.  Position one of the radiators in front of the grill.  (Not everyone's liking.)

 

4.   A forward facing scoop on the rear of the bonnet, that forces air down between the rear of the engine, & the firewall. This air will ultimately pass under the floor, & create draft from front to rear, in the engine bay.

 

5.  Another one I've seen from time to time, is to place some 25mm spacers & longer bolts connecting the rear of the bonnet, to the hinges,  This results in a gap all around the edge of the bonnet; at the rear.  As this problem is accute in this engine above; it might be worth a try, as it is simple to implement.  Other than that, it is time, to fit, an intercooler !

 

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by Banjo

[Clapped out]

10 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

You don't want to vent the bonnet?  A rearwards facing one right above the carb that sucks air out when you drive and the lets hot air rise and go out when you stop.

I'm working on one for the Evo3 as we suffer heat problems at the radiator from oil cooler and intercooler being in front, and there's no place for hot air to exit around the back of the bonnet. Evos already have vents facing backwards at the front, but with  sump guard on its still not enough open area to get good air flow out from the engine bay.

I certainly did think of going down the scoop/ ducting route, and I think it's a great idea although I'm going to brainstorm the thought and hopefully come up with a workable solution with what I have.

[Clapped out]

6 hours ago, Banjo said:

The old age question !  How do you squeeze all the parts into a smallish engine bay, to result in relatively cool air, finally entering the inlet manifold or plenum ?

 

Now our friends in Europe in Nordic countries don't necessarily have this issue, but here in Oz, & other hot climates, it is a big problem; once you want to create HP, from dear little olde engines, which the Japanese designers never anticipated; ever being put to this task.

 

 

This picture clearly & certainly demonstrates the issues we face, with intake, turbo & carby all next to each other.

 

There are just so many parts that need cooling.

 

The radiator, an oil cooler, an airconditioner radiator, & an intercooler or cold air intake, depending on whether you have a turbo or not.

 

They all are needing space down at the lower front of the engine, which just isn't available, for all of them. 

 

Down low; because the lower these are fitted, the cooler the intake air.

 

There are a few things, that can be achieved, in terms of airflows through the engine bay, that "will assist".

 

Ideally, we don't want to draw air out of the engine bay, in an upwards manner, using upward rear facing bonnet outlets; unless you like stopping at regular intervals, to clean the film off the windscreen.  Ideally, the air should pass over the engine, & down under the car, & out the back.

 

There are several places this can be accomplished.

 

1.  Remove the stone tray.  Now that may not be an option, if you are rallying on dirt roads, but the engine stone tray, does hinder airflow into the engine bay, from under the car.

 

2.  Open up the panels & supports, either side of the radiator, after repositioning the horn/s.

 

3.  Position one of the radiators in front of the grill.  (Not everyone's liking.)

 

4.   A forward facing scoop on the rear of the bonnet, that forces air down between the rear of the engine, & the firewall. This air will ultimately pass under the floor, & create draft from front to rear, in the engine bay.

 

5.  Another one I've seen from time to time, is to place some 25mm spacers & longer bolts connecting the rear of the bonnet, to the hinges,  This results in a gap all around the edge of the bonnet; at the rear.  As this problem is accute in this engine above; it might be worth a try, as it is simple to implement.  Other than that, it is time, to fit, an intercooler !

 

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers for that banjo, as stated above with the scoop/ducting route i guess.😃👍

Edited April 12, 2023 by Clapped out

[Banjo]

Why not try my suggestions no1 & no5 above; which do not require the bonnet to be cut or hacked, initially.  (I'm assuming you have a stone tray underneath, the front of the engine bay)

 

Drive it around for a week, & just see if there is any noticable difference, with the results of "heat soak".

 

Another exercise you could try, which could only improve the heat soak situation, is to remove the LHS horn, & cut a circular hole in the front inner panel, & feed the inlet air to the turbo, from in-front of the panel.  You might even be able to fit the air filter in between the rear of the grill, & the front of that LHS panel, where the horn, is currently mounted.

 

Cheers  Banjo

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by Banjo