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Chandika

Corolla KE 72 1983 Electrical Help!!

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Lack of spark or lack or fuel or lack of timing.

Was the motor running before you did whatever you did?

Have you tested the ignition with a spark plug on the block sparking, or a screwdriver across the open points?

Do you have a multimeter to make sure there is voltage at the points and coil?

Have you connected the fuel cutoff valve and does it work?

Have you wired the ballast resistor into the circuit.

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What are the voltages and what are the measuring points?

Cany find the fuel cut valve, but when key on the IG position 'its here click sound at cab.

Other all wiring removed.

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What are the voltages and what are the measuring points?

Cany find the fuel cut valve, but when key on the IG position 'its here click sound at cab.

Other all wiring removed.

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All are worked properly. I needed restore the wiring. All removed. 

My alternator has 2wires.

1x Voltage regulator 

This is ke72 flatroof 1983

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OK, so it does run when wired correctly, we can assume no components like alternators or regulators are faulty.

The wiring diagram will show you which wires go from the alternator to the voltage regulator and where they connect. It will have the colours of each wire too.  Three wires go from the alternator to the regulator, you should have the alty contacts labelled F, N and B. When they are on the alty you can test each one at the regulator to make sure you have a circuit, then plug them in. The ignition light wire comes off the regulator as in the diagram.

Wire that all up and see if the ignition light works. The fuel cutoff valve is on the side of the carb, you might not have one fitted. The click you hear might be the main relay, you can feel it click with you fingers.

Good luck!

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Can u explain how do we can start engine with eternal battery supply to ignation coil? 

Ballast resistor actual valu - 1.4ohm

Ignation coil 1.9-2.2ohms

 

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Easy- Take the wires off the coil +ve, insulate their ends and put a wire battery +ve to coil +ve.   Coil -ve goes to distributor as usual. Hook it up and make sure you have 12v at the points with them open. Either a multimeter or just a screwdriver across the points to show a spark.  Leave all the rest of the wiring intact and the starter motor should work.

This will feed 12V to the coil, while Toyota reduce it to 9V when the car is driving around. That's what the ballast resistor does usually, as it is not a 12V coil.

 

Wiring instant ignition.jpg

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Connection done. 12v indicate between coil(-) and earth. BO wire goes to distributor from resistor up point. But no spark in the plug and plug wire at engine start. 😞

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" 12v indicate between coil(-) and earth. "  No, go further... there must be 12V at one arm of the points with the points open.

" BO wire goes to distributor from resistor up point."  That doesn't sound right. The power must flow through the coil and earth out through the points of the distributor. So +12V to the coil +ve, then coil -ve to the distributor, through the points and to earth. Its the cycling earth of the points that fires the coil.  So the BO can go straight to the coil +ve to give it 12V,  just like the red wire from ignition does.

More Google needed!

 

Edited by altezzaclub

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