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AliAusten

Timing a 5K won’t start

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I have a 1982ke70 wagon running a 5k engine that won’t start I replaced most off the gaskets a couple weeks ago and iv now put the engine back together but I can’t seem too get it too start. I have spark and fuel going in. I'm assuming it could be the timing. Iv had a couple off back fires when iv fiddled with the timing but most off the time it’ll just have spitting through the carb.i don’t know much about how too time a car so any advice would be helpful.

Edited by AliAusten
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Did you pull the distributor? Could have inserted it 180* off, or plug wires switched? Pull the spark plug on number 1 and verify that the cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, when the rotor is pointing to the number 1 terminal on the cap.   Davew7

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Sort out number one firing as Davew7 said, watch the rockers through the oil cap to make sure its #1 firing stroke and not exhausting stroke. The #1 rockers will be still at TDC firing, but rocking for #1 exhausting.  It will fire as soon as the points open, so while you set the points gap on top of a square shoulder on the dizzy cam to get maximum opening, you time it before the shoulder as the points just open.

So rotate the crank to 10deg before top dead center firing #1,  make sure the rotor points to #1 plug lead as dave said, then set the gap with the rubbing block right on the square of the shoulder, then turn the dizzy clockwise until the points just close. I usually turn the ignition on and turn the dizzy back and forth so the points just spark at 10deg BTDC and then lock it down.

With the cylinder correct, the gap correct and the timing correct, the only thing left is the plug lead order, 1,3,4,2 going clockwise.

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Iv got the timing set now still wouldn’t start I had a guy come have a look and he said my carb was stuffed the two jets are throwing way too much fuel in there so it flooding is there a way too fix that issue 

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Ah...   give us the history before the timing problem.  Why did you replace gaskets? Was it running happily before that? If not, what was the problem then?

The most likely problem involves the needle & seat, but if someone has modified it the jets may be to blame.

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It was running bad and pissing out with oil I didn’t realise how bad it was until I had put new oil in and couple weeks later I checked it and there was barley any oil left I think it was leaking mostly when I was driving it bc there was only small drips on the drive way where it was parked.i was only changing the head gasket and the oil seal thing that slips on too the crank shaft but I bought a set witch had every gasket in it so I dicided I may aswell change the rest aswell, the previous owner Had put silicone gasket maker and the gasket aswell and there was heaps of silicone in the sump and some in the oil pick up filter iv got a guy that is going to fix the carb for me hopefully and then it should be running again.

11596CE6-29A8-4F1A-808F-DE62C68E9EA4.jpeg

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Ok. The oil problem should'nt affect the carb unless you had the carb or manifolds off the head & ended up with an air leak in there now.  Hopefully you've sorted the oil leaks & someone can sort the carb for it.

Nice car in the background.....  That shouldn't need the bonnet up!

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iv Got it running now the carb was the problem maker but it fixed now.but I’m confused on my firing order as I was using 1324 when I bought the car and that’s how I was driving it now iv changed it too 1342 as a couple of people have said that’s what it is. Seemed too run better when I had it on 1324. Might sound a bit stupid but I'm only 17 so I don’t have much knowledge about cars just do it as I go and learn from people and asking about it.

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For any old car, take the dizzy cap off and turn the motor by hand a little to see which way the rotor turns. You'll find K motors turn clockwise. The firing order is 1342, only a few very odd engines use 1243, its unbalanced. Usually #1 is closest to the engine and at the front, so that lead is shortest, but when the dizzy is out it can be put back in any way.

So- turn the motor by hand until the rubbing block of the points is right on top of a dizzy shaft shoulder. That is max points opening. Check the points gap with feeler gauges and get them to about 0.4-0.5mm.

When the motor runs pistons 1 & 4 come up together, then 2 & 3 come up together. You need to have #1 on its firing stroke and #4 on its exhaust stroke for this next bit. Take the plugs out first. Then take off the oil filler cap and turn the motor watching the rockers at the front of the motor under the oil cap. You'll see #1 inlet rocker there, its in front of the oil filler cap and the exhaust rocker is wayyy at the front. When the crank comes up to top dead center that rocker will close and be still for the firing stroke, or moving and opening as the crank goes past TDC on the exhaust stroke. Both strokes have the same look on the crank pulley, which is why so many people set #4 by mistake.

Watch the rocker to work out if it is #1 cyl firing or #1 cyl on exhaust. You will want #1 to be firing, so the rocker will close at 1/4 before TDC and stay closed as the crank goes past TDC. If it is moving, then the next time the crank comes to TDC will be firing.

Then turn the crank to 10deg BTDC on the firing stroke, you'll see it on the cam cover and there's a groove on the back edge of the crank pulley that goes right past it. That's when the spark plug will fire.

With the crank at 10deg, you want the points to be just opening, so now you turn the distributor until the rubbing block is just touching the start of a dizzy shaft shoulder. That's why you need to know it turns clockwise, the rubbing block has to be on the clockwise side of the shaft shoulder.  Turn the key onto 'ignition' and it will spark just as the points open, you turn the dizzy back and forth a little until it just sparks and that's where you lock the dizzy. That's fine for running the motor, you can check it with a timing light later, but I find doing it by hand is just as good.

Whatever plug lead the rotor points to when you put it back on is now #1. The other 3 leads follow clockwise, 3 then 4 then 2.  You can change which lead is #1 by taking the dizzy out and turning it around so different teeth mesh on the cam.

17 is a great age to learn about cars, you'll be an expert by your mid-20s and you can carry the knowledge forward when we're all dead in 20years!

2133772830_Newdizzy.thumb.jpg.cd807444f60d34103e339d34b8cc70c3.jpg

Edited by altezzaclub
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When I crank the car it cranks for a bit then stop then cranks then stops do you know what might be happening? 

I just got a new alternator bc it was starting first go after I turn it off and go too start it it wouldn’t go so I thought it could be alternator since the battery was drained after the first go but it’s still doing it. Could it be the voltage regulator ? Or somthing else that I don’t know about there’s a bit of smoke coming from engine too when I crank it. could that be that when the timing was bad there was unburnt fuel going into the sump 

Edited by AliAusten
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Unplug the spark plug cables and crank the engine. If it cranks easily your timing is way out and it's stopping the engine. At least that's how mine behaves...

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My coil reads below 4v what could be causing this issue. When I go too start the car it try’s too start in the first couple turn then won’t after wards could I be having an issue with volt regulator 

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Grab your multimeter...   Whats the voltage across the battery with everything turned off??

Disconnect the coil +ve and turn on the key, then read volts at the coil wires, not the coil.  One should show 9V.  Have someone turn the key to 'crank' and read the wires again while cranking. The other wire should read 12V.  You could also take the ignition wire off the ballast resistor (not the one that goes ballast-to-coil) and read that with the key on, it should be 12V.

Move to ohms on the meter and put the leads on battery -ve and the tappet cover. It should show less than 4ohms.

You will get a low voltage reading at the coil if you have the wires on the coil and the points closed. Most the power will flow away to earth through the points and there won't be much voltage to read. If you have the circuit interrupted by having the points open or the coil -ve wire off, it should read 9V as its going the through the ballast resistor.

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