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1971 Corolla Coupe Ke25. 2tg Radiator question

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Hello.  I have a 1971 Corolla Ke25 that i have installed a 2tg in.   Everyone i have talked to said that My original radiator would fit But it doesnt. To small space between front of the car and the fan.    I run a clutch fan: is that the problem or do i have to run another radiator?😆

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Hi Rune !

Welcome aboard.  I'm sure others have come across this problem before.  The clutch arrangement on the engine driven fan, is quite deep, & does take up a far bit of room.  Your best option is to remove the engine driven fan altogether, & just retain the pulley, to run the water pump.

Then you could obtain an aftermarket electric fan, that simple "ties' to your existing radiator.  Another alternative, would be to replace you existing radiator, with another type, (preferably aluminium) from a Nissan or another make, that already has an electric fan as part of it.

I used a Toyota Echo aluminium radiator, with integral electric fan on my KE30, which is covered in a post on this forum.

Maybe take your existing radiator out, & existing fan off, then run your tape measure over, the space to see what dimensions you have to work with.  Just make sure, if you do go looking for another radiator type, that it has in the inlet (top) & outlet (bttm), in the right places to match your 2TG engine.

Please post a couple of pictures, once you've got the existing radiator & fan out.

Cheers Banjo

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Install an electric fan with a relay to cut in at appropriate temp.  A good idea to use the standard shroud on the back of the radiator also.  There are write ups online of how to set up your relays.  I have setup mine (in my AE86) as per The Witzl's thread on Toymods from years ago, using a stock AE82 Corolla thermo switch to activate it.  There are vast options for cheap fans at your local pick a part, and if you take a tape measure, you may find something that fits well with a bit of thought with its own shroud.

As Banjo says, a clutch fan sticks out a fair way.  Personally I dislike aluminium radiators because they don't look right in my view.

Years ago my mate and I had identical TA22's except that he had a stock 2TG in his, and I had a moderately warm 2TC with twin webers etc in mine.  We used to race in clubsprints at CCCV events, and usually we were pretty even with very similar times.  One day I was able to gradually pull away from him, and it drove nuts because he knew I hadn't done anything special to the car.  I told him my modification was in plane sight, but still he couldn't see it.

All I had done was take the fixed (not clutch) fan off the car when we arrived at Calder.  Not an issue when racing in 3 lap sprints.  He only realised at the end of the day when I re installed it to drive home. Vale Paul Carden - a much better driver than me.

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I still remember well, the first time I drove my KE30 after I had done the electric thermofan conversion, & got rid of the engine driven fan, altogether.   It was a revelation how much energy is taken to drive that fan. I had a light on the dash, to show when the fan was switched on.  It hardly ever came on, only when you pulled up at traffic lights, & there was no ram effect of air passing over the engine. 

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Personally I dislike aluminium radiators because they don't look right in my view.

I know what Pete is saying,  because we all want out Rollas to look "olde Skool" when we lift the bonnet, but the truth of the matter is, that the aluminium finned core, is so much more efficient at removing heat than the original old brass or copper cores.

From my personal experience, the change-over to an electric fan, & an aluminium radiator, is one of the best & easiest ways to improve the performance of your early Rolla, with quieter operation; more power; & better engine temperature control, being the result.

P.S.  I had personally been against aluminium radiators, before I did my conversion.  I have a mate who is a "Mitsi" fanatic, & he was always having leaking issues with the mating of the aluminium core to the plastic header tanks, & the plastic header tanks splitting. Crossed fingers, I've not experienced that with my Toyota Echo aluminium & plastic radiator.

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I put a manual over-ride with that light on mine.

I also installed an override switch,  for the electric fan.  It is positioned just down on the side of the console.  It will get repositioned into the dash, one day.

Mine is a three position switch, with a light that shows when the fan is in operation.

1:   Fan on under control of the fan thermostat switch.

2:   Fan off altogether.   Used when crossing creeks, to prevent water being sprayed up over engine electrics.

3.   Fan forced on, even if thermostat switch is off.   Good for pre-empting a long mountain uphill run, approaching, or if you get caught in heavy, or stand-still traffic.

DSC00519Small.thumb.jpg.551a7c1b38a352a63e7bfa563eb9002e.jpg

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo

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Woolshed rallying has fitted 5 or more of the Ebay all-alloy ones to various cars, and after a few years one has leaked where the core is welded to the tanks. 

I was worried about putting more weight in the nose so I weighed stock and alloy rads, the alloy is half the weight of the copper, and measured what they held. The alloy holds twice the water so the weight ends up the same.

I ran the 4AGE on a stock 4K radiator & electric fan without problems, but it was on the limit of what it could cool really. It didn't heat up much over half, but took longer to cool down, so in the end I went alloy.

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It didn't heat up much over half, but took longer to cool down, so in the end I went alloy.

The alloy radiators certainly do cool down quicker.  I remember, when I carried out my thermofan upgrade, I was going to install a thermofan cut-out timer, so it couldn't "run on" for more than say 15 minutes, to protect the battery from ever going flat, because the fan stayed on.

In practice, the engine coolant gets much hotter, after you pull up, & turn off the ignition.  After you pull up, there is no fan on, & there is no "ram effect" of air through the radiator, as the car is now not moving. 

So if you pull up, & the thermostatic control switch for the thermofan is off, then I find, as I walk away from the car; all of a sudden the fan comes on, as the heat in the block, elevates the coolant temperature.  This can sometimes take several minutes, before this occurs.  However, after the fan is switched on, it will always switch off, within 60-90 seconds.  I therefore decided  not to put a run-on timer cut out on.  The only reason, I could think, it could still be required; was if there was a condition in the fan motor, that created a high current, which "welded" the contacts in the thermostatic switch, & therefore kept the thermofan continuously running.

P.S.  I have watched with amusement in shopping centre car parks, after I walk away & look back, to see someone walking past my Rolla, just as the thermofan "kicks in". They stop & look & stare at the car,  I presume, not expecting a car that olde, to have a function, which is so common in all modern cars.

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo

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Belive there is two different waterpump styles for T engines.  Short and long nose.  Needs pulley to suit 

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Hi Tor,

             Yes, the "long nose" water pump, is to accept the fixed fan assembly, & the short nose water pump, accepts the viscous clutch type fan assembly.

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Rune may have to source the other fixed fan type water pump, to convert to thermofan.

Cheers Banjo

 

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5 hours ago, Banjo said:

 

P.S.  I have watched with amusement in shopping centre car parks, after I walk away & look back, to see someone walking past my Rolla, just as the thermofan "kicks in". They stop & look & stare at the car,  I presume, not expecting a car that olde, to have a function, which is so common in all modern cars.

Cheers Banjo

Doing a driving course a while ago and the instructor jumped into my car to drive it. I watched her put the car into gear, let the clutch out  clutch back in, check for first gear etc.   After a couple of goes at trying to take off, she asked what was going on.  I told her to turn the engine on, its only the electric fan vibrating the car.

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thanks for your replies.   I'm gonna go with original radiator and electric fan for now i think. And upgrade to alu radiator when the car is finished and ready for upgrades :D

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Good to see the forum is still upp and running, helpfull as always.    Worth mentioning that if fan size or position is changed, shroud should be modified accordingly for effective cooling

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Hi Rune,

              Here is a better pic I found on the net, clearly depicting the difference between the long & short nose water pumps for the 2TG engine.

image.png.fa337d175857768cfef0fedafe959a38.png

 

Cheers Banjo

 

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again, thank  you for all the help.    But i was actually lucky and found a thinner radiator among my parts that fitted the corolla so that problem was a easy fix  :D 

 

But now i have another question.. Can anyone tell me which wire goes where on the alternator?  The connector was destroyed years ago, so I'm just left with lose wires 😅

Here is also acouple of extra photos of my project.  Hopefully get it painted this summer.  106016848_269605687436034_1143461745259659367_n.thumb.jpg.0aa2d8624d623cfc7e813325caced9c9.jpg

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this is the color I'm going for . ral1021, rapeyellow105859533_284453272745156_203250522679180258_n.thumb.jpg.3a295356ce9ab6779ee32448a2dca3bc.jpg

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