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KE35 wheel size and tuning tips


mika93

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Hi Guys!

I'm getting closer to finishing my old Rolla (1975 KE35) that I used to drive 10 years ago on my p plates. All rust has been taken out, Fresh paint, Rebuilt 4k engine, new seats and dash. I'm super stoked with how its coming along but I have a few questions for you all.

1. Can anyone give me ideas of what size wheels/tyres will comfortably fit without having to change anything? (Stock ones are just too small)

2. I have managed to get a 45 DCOE webber onto this engine. I've bought a jet kit and will be having a play around this week but has anyone had experience jetting these correctly? 

3. the 4k engine has had the head shaved 80 thou and I've put a random cam in it some old bloke gave me at the engine shop (He couldn't give me any details on it but its super lumpy on idle and only really kicks in around 3k). It all seems to be running pretty well but I have a feeling the timing could be set better. If anyone has an aggressive cam can you let me know how you've set up your timing?

 

I'm fairly inexperienced with all this so any help would be much appreciated. Cheers

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Edited by mika93
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Nice job!  That looks really smart!

What exhaust do you have on it? Stock manifold?

You could measure the cam specs yourself with a protractor on the crank. That would give you opening and closing, and hence degrees.   A dial gauge on a rocker at the same time would give you lift. Fiddly, but not hard.  Power range comes from where the inlet closes, that's why people use adjustable cam drives with hot cams. If you want to do it I'll give you details, but you'll need  big protractor and preferably a dial gauge.

Pop the base plate out of the distributor and make sure its clean and greased underneath so the weights can work smoothly.  Are you using stock points or electronic??  If they're stock make sure the gap is correct and there is no volcano on one face giving a false reading. If you replace the points always replace the condenser.  Set to 10deg at idle with a timing light, no vac advance.  Check it advances out to 35deg or thereabouts when you rev it.

K motors will take more advance than 10deg, it really depends on your carbs, your fuel and your altitude. First do a plug cut by pulling a good full-power run in 3rd one day, whip your foot off the accelerator & kill the ignition at the same time. Take out the plugs on the side of the road and check for colour.  Really white will be lean, any soot on the center will be rich.  There are jet suggestions on the web, I'll look some up later.  The best is a mixture display running off an oxy sensor in the exhaust, or a dyno tune.

 

That's a start.... 

 

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Hi Michael,

                   

Quote

I'm super stoked with how its coming along but I have a few questions for you all.

So you should be !  That is a beautiful clean job you've done on your KE35.  Thanks for the pics.  I did notice that you haven't hooked up your heater hoses, on the rear firewall,  . . . . .  but then I noticed your N.T. number plates, & that you are probably in Darwin, so that made perfect sense.

Would love a close up picture & details of your dash, where you appear to have replaced the whole "radio section" & put in oil pressure & water temp guages ?

If that exhaust header, I can just see, is a 4 into 1 extractor, I would suggest taking up Altezzaclub's suggestion of drilling a hole where all four runners join, & fitting a "bung", so you can fit an O2 sensor.   That will really assist, in getting your jetting on the DCOE 45 just right. 

It may be an optical illusion, but the water pump pulley mounting bolts, look quite close to the thermo-fan frame ?

As for wheels, I'd suggest definitely going to 14 inch, & using an offset, so that you can run something like a 205, without, having to fit a guard lip, or flare, to cover a "protruding" tyre.

14 inch wheels, also provide the opportunity in the future, to upgrade your front rotors & calipers, to something much bigger.

If you haven't already changed the dizzy points to an electronic type, then this engine is a prime example of one, which should have that upgraded.

Keep up the good works, & keep us informed of how it all goes.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

 

Edited by Banjo
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My daughter is running 15 inch rims with 185/55 tyres on her ke55 hardtop with no protrusion or rubbing anywhere. She also runs an electronic points replacement module in the dizzy, best  thing I ever did, I installed it, set it, and haven t touched it since, that was 2 and a half years ago.Cheap as chips $80. Great looking car well done. 

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23 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

What exhaust do you have on it? Stock manifold?

I bought 4-1 headers off eBay, the are attached to just a straight pipe (can't remember what size, that was put on about 7-8 years ago...)

23 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

Pop the base plate out of the distributor and make sure its clean and greased underneath so the weights can work smoothly.  Are you using stock points or electronic??  If they're stock make sure the gap is correct and there is no volcano on one face giving a false reading. If you replace the points always replace the condenser.  Set to 10deg at idle with a timing light, no vac advance.  Check it advances out to 35deg or thereabouts when you rev it.

K motors will take more advance than 10deg, it really depends on your carbs, your fuel and your altitude. First do a plug cut by pulling a good full-power run in 3rd one day, whip your foot off the accelerator & kill the ignition at the same time. Take out the plugs on the side of the road and check for colour.  Really white will be lean, any soot on the center will be rich.  There are jet suggestions on the web, I'll look some up later.  The best is a mixture display running off an oxy sensor in the exhaust, or a dyno tune.

I'm fairly sure the dizzy is working fine, its definitely and electronic one as I was having problems with those condensers are you were saying, they were a nightmare. I've got it set to about 15deg on idle, so far thats where it seems to be happiest, haven't checked what it gets to when it revs.

Ill order an O2 sensor today, sounds like the best way to go and will fill up that dash just a little bit more

Thanks heaps

 

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22 hours ago, Banjo said:

 I did notice that you haven't hooked up your heater hoses, on the rear firewall,  . . . . .  but then I noticed your N.T. number plates, & that you are probably in Darwin, so that made perfect sense  

Hahah yeah mate absolutely no need for the heater up here, didn’t even need to hook it up for a roadworthy. 
 

The good ol eBay radiator I got was a lot thicker than I thought, it took A bit to fit it on there and as you’ve seen after the thermo fan there it no room at all

the original radio was ripped out by 17 year old me and replaced with the usual head unit and big sub in the back, now I’d just prefer to listen to the car so I chucked the gauges in there on a steel plate, pretty happy with them75BF9432-BA54-4FCE-B851-5AF5217254B9.thumb.jpeg.21c2aeca80d6144cea72ed15253fe6c8.jpeg

will re do it next week and add that O2 sensor and maybe volts to even it all out

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11 hours ago, Big G said:

My daughter is running 15 inch rims with 185/55 tyres on her ke55 hardtop with no protrusion or rubbing anywhere. She also runs an electronic points replacement module in the dizzy, best  thing I ever did, I installed it, set it, and haven t touched it since, that was 2 and a half years ago.Cheap as chips $80. Great looking car well done. 

Cheers mate, if you have any photos of the car/wheels id love to see them. I swapped the dizzy for an electronic one a while ago too, definitely the best way to go

 

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OK, generate a timing curve with a timing light & tacho, and see if the electronic dizzy has been re-curved to suit a car & not a forkhoist.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/

That make a the biggest difference to performance once I'd fitted the electronic dizzy, maybe yours has been done already.

The mixture display works well as you can watch it under all sorts of driving conditions, although once the jets are set up you don't touch them again.

Here's the Weber jet suggestion list-

Weber jets suggested.jpg

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Quote

Ill order an O2 sensor today, sounds like the best way to go and will fill up that dash just a little bit more

You will need a special "bung" to weld into the exhaust pipe, so that the O2 sensor, can screw in.  Some O2 sensors come with the bung, others, you have to buy them separately.

Fit, just beyond where the 4 into 1 pipes join together, for best results.

P.S.  If you use a 2 inch meter for the AFR reading from the O2 sensor, did you know it will usually fit in the dash, in place of the clock.  I've got a 2 inch meter in there, & it fitted fine.  Thanks for the pic of your dash mod.  Given me a couple of ideas.

Cheers Banjo 

Edited by Banjo
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