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Upper thermostat housing

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I am after an upper thermostat housing like pictured below? Does anyone have one for sale or know where I can get one?

Ash

D8a5In1.jpg

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Hi Ashley,

                 I've never been lucky enough to come across one of those.  My guess is that your picture is of a 7K engine, possibly fitted in a forklift or a Toyota commercial vehicle.  The filler cap always has to be the highest point in the coolant system, so that particular thermostat cover/cap could only be utilised, where the top of the radiator, is below that particular level point on the engine.

Interested to learn what you need it for.  

My only suggestion, would be to contact a company in Melbourne that services & sells spares for forklifts.  They may be able to supply you with the original Toyota P/N.  With that number & Google, you'll probably have a much better chance of finding a source for it.

Let us know how you go.

Cheers Banjo

 

P.S.   I just found this on the net.     http://europe.toylexparts.com/liteace/631540/km36lv-mrsbfew/0/014/1/1603/mab607a/16701

image.png.ed3fa383d7db83e0215116bf87ec00bd.png

Looks like this arrangement was fitted to a KM36 LiteAce van.

According to this exploded view the thermostat cover has P/N 16331

The cap is 16331F

The gasket is 16341

OK, just found that it appears it was fitted to a 5K engine.  There are another 5 digits with the 16331 Toyota number.  Depending on the model it was ftted to it, could be any of the following, which I found on the net.

image.png.148c01d3f37ef22a8e6cc52989f386ee.png

Amayama in Japan list the 16331-13060, however it is out of production.

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1633113060

 

 

Edited by Banjo

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Thanks Banjo,

Will have a ring around over the next few days, hopefully I can find one without having to order in from overseas.

 

6 hours ago, Banjo said:

Interested to learn what you need it for. 

I have 3K powered clubman sportscar.

At the moment the radiator cap sits level with the thermostat, so to fill with coolant I need to raise the front of the car subsantially to get the fill point above everything else.

I can't raise the cap any higher as it already rubs on the underside of the nose. So the hope is that I can use one of these housings to use as the fill point and then remove the old one on the radiator.

The car in question...

eAny6me.jpg

 

Edited by Crashly
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Hi Ashley,

                 Lovely clean lined Clubman you have there.  I'm assuming it has a 5K Rolla engine in it ?  Gearbox ?

Would love to see a picture, under the bonnet, to see how you've installed it.

Did you put the clubman together, or did you purchase it, as is ?

Hope you can get hold of that radiator cap outlet.  A wrecked LiteAce van, is probably your best bet, here in Australia.

Have you ever tried these guys out at Epping ?

https://toyrolla.com.au/toyota-k-engine/ 

I'll keep a look out for one.

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo

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Car is running a standard 3K with twin 1.25" S.Us, electric dizzy, 4 speed box and escort rear end. Have converted the clutch from cable operation to hydraulic (clutch fork didnt fit in the tunnel)

4LiUZJN.jpg

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Hi Ashley,

                I know "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", but that is beautiful !  There is something about the simplicity of the Clubman concept, that appeals to me.  Probably wouldn't appeal as much, if I was out driving in one, & it started to rain.  However, as that has never happened, I'll retain my wonder for them.  What does it weigh all up ?  Even with a 3K, the power to weigh ratio, must be pretty good. The mind wonders what it would be like with a 5K powering it.  I note it has no engine driven fan, so I suspect there is a thermofan down behind that radiator, that I can't see . . . . .  or else you drive so fast, it relies entirely on the "ram effect" of the air through the radiator.

I can now see how low the radiator is, & why you need the extended filler cap, on top of the thermostat housing.

Cheers Banjo

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Thanks, I’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out. Car weighs about 490kg.

I’m hoping to build a warm 5k for it next year. 

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Hi Ashley,

                 I checked your activity on Rollaclub, to see if you have ever posted any other pics of your 3K Clubman previously.  I found several posts in 2016/17/18.

The post about your hydraulic conversion of the clutch throw-out bearing has me enthralled.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76019-ke70-cable-to-hydraulic-clutch/?tab=comments#comment-721367

I don't know whether I missed it at the time, or had just forgotten it, but now I'm all excited again.

I've always wanted to get rid of the clutch cable, & it's horrible adjustment mechanism, up on the firewall.  It has created pain over the years.  The clutch cable does have the advantage that it is easy to change out, but I do get a bit apprehensive about fitting something additional "inside" the bell-housing, that would require the removal of the gearbox, to do any service at all thereupon.

However, the Tilton device you modified & added, does look quite heavy duty; & I love the simple hole in the bell-housing, to bring out the hydraulic line straight from the Tilton slave cylinder.

My question is . . . .    Now you have had a couple of years using this setup, has it lived up to it's expectations ?  Have there been any issues with it, like leaks etc.?  As there doesn't appear to be any adjustment on the arrangement, to set the gap between the the clutch fingers & the Tilton integral throw-out bearing, have you had the bearing start to touch the fingers, as the clutch driven plate wears, & the fingers naturally move slightly rearwards ?

Sorry about all the questions, but what diff ratio do you have in the Escort rear end ?   What rpm does the engine do, to achieve 100klm/hr in top gear, whilst cruising.  A possible great upgrade, when you preparing a "warm" 5k for your clubman, would be the 5 speed gearbox from a Ke70 or maybe even a KE55 coupe, depending on where your gearstick comes out of your tunnel, which I imagine is quite tight.

The 5th gear would then basically provide an over-drive.

Cheers  Banjo

 

 

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I did the conversion a few years back, but only got it on the road in March and it hasn’t be driven it all that much (driven hard though!), but so far the clutch has been perfect, no leaks etc..

Your right, there is no adjustment. When I set it all up it had some clearance, but I haven’t checked it since it’s been in use. If it is rubbing I’ll machine a little more off in the lathe. 

Diff ratio is a 3.8:1, from memory the car sits on about 3500 revs at 100ks.

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Hi Ashley,

                 I did a bit of research on there type of hydraulic clutch throw out bearings, & there a several brands including your Tilton unit.  McLeod, seems to be another popular brand in the USA.

image.png.e2e5f4f4bba335fdbef83119e1645442.png

There are a several videos on-line explaining how to install them, which had clear information.  Apparently, most are supplied with shims, which fit behind the unit, so that the gap between the front of the bearing & the tips of the clutch plate fingers is about 100 thou, with a new driven plate. They explain, that as the driven plate faces wear, & the driven plate "becomes thinner", the fingers of the clutch plate move backwards, eventually touching the throw out bearing.  Apparently, this is not an issue, as the bearing is designed as a heavy duty "constant turning" bearing.

As many of these hydraulic units are fitted to competition cars & vehicles, where the engine & gearbox, are regularly removed from the vehicle, then you would remove shims from behind the hydraulic assembly, it keep the gap at 100 thou approx. as the clutch plate wears.

I was concerned, as we are so used to relatively simple "low duty" throw out bearings, that if allowed to turn constantly, would dry out & start to rattle incessantly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_R2hw2wkV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rl3D7E1CdU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVLGOSMTjrU

I'd be very interested to hear from any other RollaClub members, who have ever fitted one of these "concentric slave hydraulic throw-out bearings", to their Rolla.

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo

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2 hours ago, Jono.C said:

I have one of those here off a 5k id sell

Jono,

How much you do want for it?

Ash

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2 hours ago, Banjo said:

 

I'd be very interested to hear from any other RollaClub members, who have ever fitted one of the hydraulic throw-out bearings, to their Rolla.

Cheers Banjo

 

I've fitted two of the McLeod ones to a 308 Holden and a 350 sbc both with t10 4spds and twin plate clutches. Geez they are light in operation and a seriously well made part. But they are expensive around $1000

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I didnt look into what other ones where available, I was lucky enough to find one straight up that would do the job (pretty sure i didnt pay much more than $100 for it)

A few other clubman guys use one from a SAAB 900, that may be worth looking at too

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Hi Ash,

             Most of the USA ones are all around the $ 1000 mark.  The Tilton models seem to be a bit cheaper.

image.png.4f5dec4a64ee96507c6f12ca71ec0aa8.png

I gather the one you used is the first one pictured here from the 3000 Series, which was the closest to requirements for the Rolla 4 speed GB.

I noticed that Rolan Australia, sell a lot of Tilton stuff, out of Seven Hills in NSW, on ebay.

I found the instruction for the conversion kit, put out by Saab for the Saab 900 series.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/converting-saab-ng900-hydraulic-clutch-kit-101k10172/

The Saab hydraulic clutch release parts are a lot cheaper than the USA made devices.

image.png.5b6309f0138a15d8f40afee7b297b9a4.png

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo

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