Jump to content

New to Rollaclub


Recommended Posts

"Jet advice for weber 32/36, anyone have one or know a bit about them? "

A common question, with no known answer that I've seen.  Most of them came of Ford Cortinas or Pinto, so a bit bigger, and most people run them as they are after asking exactly the same question.

Here's the search you should have done...

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/75797-weber-3236-4k-jetting/?tab=comments#comment-720870

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52246-2836-dcd-weber-carburettor/?tab=comments#comment-532530

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72740-too-much-white-smoke-after-installing-a-new-weber-3236-on-a-4k/?tab=comments#comment-704833

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70427-rejetting-aiisin-vs-weber/?tab=comments#comment-688504

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72230-weber-3236-into-5k/?tab=comments#comment-701318

 

 

A 28/36 would be better I'd expect.  Just remember that Webers don't alter the mixture with the idle screw, only the flow.

For the extractors, a common trick is to measure the thickness of the inlet & exhaust flanges, cut a washer of the right thickness in half & glue a half onto another set of washers. When you fit the manifolds the half-washers take up the difference in flange thickness. Another even easier one, is to get a length of wire the right thickness and put  bit behind the washers as needed.

When you've done it all and its too slow, look around for some bike carbs, a quad set off a Gixxer.... I always regret not getting around to fitting a set just to see how fast it was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Members dont see this ad
Posted (edited)

Progressing Slowly,

Ready to refit the intake manifold and header. Had some machining done to get the fitting better. New studs and bolts tommorow.

Had the intake bead blasted as well as a few other bits and pieces inc bumper mounts, water inlet, fan pully, headlight surrounds, horns.

New fan with 1 3/4 inch adapter ready. slow going but enjoying it. hope you like it so far,

regards Guvna

* testing manifolds before machining

20220418_181455.thumb.jpg.9f8c43f0a3b838d5f40390ffbcee0528.jpg

20220418_181501.jpg

20220510_185428.jpg

Edited by Guvna
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gavin,

Quote

really?   bugger.....

No offense, but agree with Pete totally.  Even the standard plastic fan, reduces power from the  engine, that should be going to your back wheels.  Bear in mind what the fan is for . . .    It is there to force air over the engine, when your Rolla is not moving forward on the road, when normally, the force of the air passing over the engine, without fan, is totally sufficient to completely keep the engine at normal operating temperatures.

It appears you have a large capacity aluminium radiator, which will be far more efficent at remove engine heat that the original factory radiator, from bygone years.

My honest suggestion, would be to put the water pump pulley back on, & dice the fan you have there altogether.  Then add a simple electic fan to the rear of the radiator, which is easily accomplised, as the electric fans come with all mounting hardware usually.  Check ebay, & you'll find they are freely available, to suit the aluminium radiator dimension, you have fitted..

The fan is then activated by an additional water temp sensor thermostat, that switches the fan on, once the  coolant temp, rises above 90-95 deg C.

I put an electric fan on my 5K & 4ks, & I have a light on the dash, which indicates when the fan has been automatically switched on. Without a word of a lie, the fan, rarely comes on.  Ocassionally in hot weather, it city traffic, waiting at the lights, it will be activated for a couple of minutes, but as soon as you drive off, within  1-30 sec. it turns off.

When I first fitted it, after having driven for years with an engine drive fan, it was noticeable, how much more power was available to drive the car.

I'm sure others on this forum, will testify to what I am advising you.

Keep us updated.  Love the detail & work you are putting into this project.

Cheers Banjo

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Years back I had a TA22 with a worked 2T. My mate had an identical car except his had a 2TG. He could always pull away from me on the front straight at Calder. Until one day I was pulling away from him. Drove him crazy as he couldn’t work out what new modification I had done. All I had done was removed the plastic fan during the race meeting. End of the day, popped it back on and drove home. 

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, get an electric fan, they not only rarely come on but makes the motor much quieter. Now I realise the roar when a 4WD ute takes off is the giant mechanical fan they use pushing air around the engine bay.

What did you do about the difference in flange thickness in the inlet and exhaust manifolds?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gavin,

                 If you need any more convincing, that you should dice the standard fan, & fit an electic one; I would suggest you read through a very long thread on here, about 4-5 years old, where many thoughts & experiences were related about radiator, thermostats, fans etc, etc.

We even did some tests with a temperature data logger, to see graphically, after the event, how the system & mods worked.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/#comments

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...