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Fuel and gearbox issue


silkrolla

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Take the sender unit wire off the top of the fuel tank and short it out. If the gauge reads full, the sender unit is faulty.  If the gauge reads half, the wiring or gauge is faulty.

The new sender units on Ebay only go from empty to half when the tank is full, or from half to full so you run out at half. They just don't have enough range.

 

Throw the auto away and fit a K50 or a K40 if you can't get the first. The car will accelerate faster, actually go up hills, & use less fuel.  Buy the whole system, a flywheel, a clutch setup, gearbox and driveshaft, pedals.  Beware that the manual boxes have unique bearings that are no longer available, so once they get noisy or die that cannot be repaired.  Start saving for a 4AGE motor & T50 gearbox if you're going to keep the car!

Gearbox conversion in here-

Throw a picture up!

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The owner before me said they had replaced the pump and filter quite recently. The filter looks clean, it reads the fuel properly.... there’s no way I would’ve chewed through a whole tank in 2 hours??

Okay I will look into a new gearbox. Was thinking of eventually doing a rebuild on the 4k, love the sound of it.

Thankyou for the help. I’m sure I’ll be back when more things arise hahah

(I’ll upload a flick soon)

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The fuel pump is at the front of the engine, but the pick up point in the tank, is a long way back.  That makes the suction line nearly 3 metres long.  I have found quite clearly, that the smallest leak in that fuel suction line, anywhere between the pump inlet, & the tank pickup, will result in no fuel arriving at the carby.

It has happened to me, & the tiniest leak, reduced the suction so much, "it wouldn't pull the skin off a custard.".  I'd check the complete fuel line out, under the car, & on top of the tank in the boot.  Anywhere there is a rubber joiner is a possible leak point.  The rubbers go hard, & the leaks occur.  Replace any rubber joiners.  You'll be surprised how hard the olde ones get, after all these years.  

Cheers  Banjo

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  • 10 months later...

Far out this issue is also happening to me there is no fuel in my fuel filter and I do not think any fuel is getting to the carby, I was able to start it with start ya bastard and only runs for like 2 seconds before it dies since no fuel is getting to the carby, I thought it was the dizzy at first, thats why I made a separate post not to long ago asking about dizzy but now I think its fuel related.

Thing is my KE70 is parked on a incline hill with the engine bay facing up the incline, so maybe the mechanical fuel pump is struggling to pump fuel from the tank to carby since the incline is too steep, I also just filled up the tank and only drove 140km so there should still be plenty of fuel, unless I ran the carby to rich, but even then it should still have enough fuel in the tank, I legit put a brand new GOSS Mechanical Fuel Pump on (maybe its a shit fuel pump) I bought a Fuel Miser Mechanical Fuel Pump maybe I can try that and see if it makes a difference, I will do as you guys mentioned above check my fuel hoses and maybe even the hard line is now blocked may need to give it a clean out and or the tank has heaps of crud and rust in it, it also just got regoed so it may have been sitting for a long time, I crank and crank but no fuel is reaching to the fuel filter, so something is not working in the fuel system, Ill have a look this weekend and hopefully get it sorted, is there anything else I can do to try and get the fuel pumped through.

Edited by knibusu
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Even if your car is parked on a hill, when you turn off the engine, there will be fuel in the carburetor bowl, which will be enough; to at least start it, next day.

If you have fitted a new fuel pump, then the problem. is either in the fuel line, or in the pickup or pipework in the fuel tank itself.

My first suggest would be to remove the inlet line to the fuel pump, & blow back down the line, to the tank. Get a mate to listen at the fuel filler hole, with the cap off, & he/she should hear the air bubbles in the tank.

If good, that means it is not entirely blocked.  It could still have a leak somewhere, where the mechanical fuel pump cannot pull fuel through, even though the pump is new. It's easier for the pump to suck air than fuel.

Next step, is to get under the car & inspect the fuel line in detail.  Look for damp patches.  Check any rubber joiners, which are often old, hard dry, & cracked.  Replace !  If still no joy, then it will be time to remove the fuel tank, from the boot, & take out the pick-up stork, complete with the fuel guage sender. 

I'm presuming you have taken the top of the carby, & checked that the needle & seat, plus float, are all working OK.  If the car has been sitting for a long time, & the fuel has been sitting or evaporated, it can often leave a whitish looking residue on any part in contact with the fuel, which has since evaporated.

Let us know how you go.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

Edited by Banjo
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So I put the new Fuel Miser Fuel Pump and New Fuel Filter, and was able to get fuel to the carby, it was running good still had the issue where when coming to a complete stop the car would die on itself, I took it for a drive around my area, came back, let the car rest for a while and noticed it was leaking fuel from some engine bay fuel lines so I replaced those lines, went for another drive, came back and parked the car on a incline like I always do to have a check of my fuel lines are not still leaking, went to crank the car and same thing is happening as before the fuel filter is not filling up with fuel and cannot get fuel from tank to carby, I took the mechanical fuel pump off with lines still attached and pumped the lever by hand that seems to be able to pump fuel and I could see it trying to squirt from mechanical fuel pump to carby hardline with the little of left over fuel it had. Its either the tank needs a clean, the hardlines under the car need a clean, and or its something else, like when it was running it was working perfectly besides the car cutting out at low rpm and coming to complete stop it would die.

Edited by knibusu
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Well guys after dickering around over the weekend I just finally got the fuel supply issue somewhat semi fixed, so I replaced the engine bay fuel lines with 1/4th fuel hose, about 6.3mm, I tried to crank engine but still wasnt filling fuel filter up with fuel, so I took the fuel pump off the engine block and pumped it manually with the fuel lines attached to mechanical pump and I was able to fill the fuel filter up with fuel. I cleaned the carburetor with carby cleaner. 

I then primed the carby and was able to get it running with my foot holding the accelerator, but when I would let go the car would stall, took me ages to play around with carby and accelerator cable, so my ke accelerator cable had a bit of slack in the line I had to adjust it to the point where the back nut is all the way at the end of the accelerator mount so there is no slack in the accelerator line,then I put the idle at about 1200rpm which I have to do to activate the secondary jet otherwise it wont Idle I do not really know as I do not have a tachometer, but whats happening is I believe my idle jet or the middle jet that supplies fuel to carby when idling is blocked and not supplying fuel, I remedied for the time being by raising the rpm as stated above which is allowing me to use the secondary accelerator jet, this is the only way I can get it running for the time being, but with that my fuel economy will be really bad as the secondary jet is squirting fuel all the time. When I try to set it to low idle it does not want to idle as it can not spray from the middle jet.

I am either gonna have to rebuild the carby or see if it fixes itself overtime. But yeah as soon as I adjust the idle screw to a lower rpm, the car starts to bog down and struggles to run. I am also still having a slight issue where when at traffic lights coming to complete stop the car sometimes struggles to idle and die, maybe because the engine is too hot and is turning the fuel from mechanical fuel pump to carby into straight vapour as the hard line is superclose to the engine.

Edited by knibusu
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Have you checked that the fuel cut off solenoid is operating properly? It blocks off the idle circuit so if you apply enough pedal it will run but as soon as you release the pedal  back to idle it will stall. 

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I let a mechanic test it at work, and he said its working fine, but I have a spare so might swap and see if it makes any difference, I also got my grandparent that has been a Toyota mechanic for +30 years, he grew up working on KE70s/AE71 and knows these cars like the back of his hand, he gave the engine a look over and done minor tune we, checked timing, contact point gap, fuel pump, fuel pump line section tested after mechanical pump tested end of hardline to carby, A okay fuel getting to carby hardline.

He just double checked what I had done to make sure I had not missed anything, but when it came to carby he then tuned the carby, I tell ye these oldheads are a different breed, it was 7pm by this time, he was tuning it by sight and ear in the dark with me holding the torchlight, and got the carby running to the best of its abilities, he was doing the old trick where you rev the car with your palm over the carby and let go to check for vaccum i think thats what he was doing, and done that a couple a times, and then tried to adjust it where it was around 800rpm and got the fuel/air ratio correct, in the end it wouldnt idle at 800rpm and would shut off, he came to the conclusion that the carby needs a good clean, but I may just buy a rebuild kit and clean and rebuild the carburetor. We are going to do it this weekend and will also do an oil change and set the valve clearances as we have not done that yet.

I have been driving it to work, driving to work is fine, as I can continuously drive the car so my foot is almost always on the accelerator, so no trouble there, but when driving it home I leave work at 4:00pm and there is alot of stopping and starting, so I have to drive it cautiously to keep the car alive, when I come to a stop I legit have to slow down 30 meters ahead to second gear and ride it until I am 10 meters to the stop and then downshift to 1st gear blip the throttle brake again blip the throttle and then just hold the car with clutch and accelerator if its flat if not I do the same thing but when I know I have to really come to a complete stop I use the handbrake aswell, its a bloody headache but this car is pretty much my only way of transport as its a 30min drive to work. 

Also I have had this weird issue keep happening, everytime I am 200 meters away from home the car starts to lose power and I have to baby the car home in 1st gear in my suburb, I am legit only going 5 kph but have to give 1st gear revs to drive it home, I think its either the carby, or the fuel hardline after a long drive gets too hot, and the fuel thats being sent is getting evoprated since the hardline rests against the rocket cover and maybe there is too much heat at the end of the trip, in the morning its fine though as its around 12 degrees but in the afternoon its a lot warmer, or its just a completely different issue.

Sorry for these long paragraphs but I think its good to detail everything for people that are having similar issues. - Knibusu

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Really good that You have a grand father, with lots of Toyota experience.

Olde engines can have lots of issues, that are hidden, that may not completely prevent them from running; but create conditions, in which they don't run well, at all. 

Common is one cylinder, that is "not pulling it's weight", due to burnt or pitted valve seats.  Rocker arms, with grooves in them where they contact the valve ends.  Cracked or soft valve spring/s.  One cylinder with poor compression.  The list goes on.  

If it was me, I'd be running the engine up to temp, then whipping all the spark plugs out, taking note of which spark plug was installed in each cylinder; & doing a compression check.  Even checking the colour of the insulator inside the spark plug, can indicate a cylinder not combusting well.

Next would be checking all the valve clearances, although as you have the rocker cover off; it would also be a good idea to remove the rocker gear, & check the sliding face of the rocker arm, where it comes in contact with the valve end.

The carby could well need a complete clean & overhaul, but unless you can achieve reliable fuel supplyto it; it cannot be tuned.

I still believe you may well have a minute leak in the fuel line, that is compromising the pressure at the carby.

Disconnect the fuel line at each end. Blow pressured air though it in both directions, & see in any rubbish or rust comes out.  Block one end, & feed  air pressure at the other end.  Check the line & any rubber joiners for leaks, via hearing, but to be sure, spray the outside of the line with water, & look for little bubbles, created by escaping air.

I gather you have fitted a new pump, so we can eliminate that.

It's attention to all these small details, that will turn up, what your engine's problem, really is.

Don't lose sight of the fact, that it might not be just one fault, that is contributing to your woes.  In olde cars, it can often be a couple of issues.

eg:   Have you removed the air filter, & guaged whether the engine runs better with or without the filter ?

It will be something quite small; but you can only find it, by methodically working through each of the above.

Let us know how you go.

Cheers Banjo

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So Guys somewhat of a successful weekend, I bought a ASIAN 7B Carby off a bloke, slapped it on the wagon, and fixed my idling issues, was able to idle the car at around 900rpm, also does not stall out at traffic lights or when I am driving it hard from 70km/h and come to sudden stop it keeps on purring. Thing is though I cannot adjust the idle screw to idle below 900rpm to get it to idle at 800rpm oem spec but still 900rpm is alot better then what I had before, the port for the idle stopper is already all the way maxed out.

IDLESTOPPERlanscape.thumb.jpg.f0aeb18b1cc931c6768d838b84e19907.jpg

But also my choke cable is not currently connected as the end of it is too frayed to put back in, so gonna order a new choke cable not sure if that makes a difference to idle speed. But I think I need the choke to be able to use the high speed opening so the choke butterfly closes at high rpms therefore increasing my rpms as I gain speed. Turning the idle stopper anti-clockwise pushes the throttle linkage down more which then gives you a more lower rpm, then I think you use the idle screw to push the throttle linkage back to ideal rpm but in my case my idle stopper as you can see in the picture I have turned it in all the way in but is still idling 100rpm over oem specification.

I may have also not connected my vaccum hoses in-correctly but I am pretty sure I have, Ill ask some Toyota oldheads at work and see what they say.

Another issue that came up something is ticking when I hit the accelerator pedal to accelerate, I though it just might be the choke cable vibrating against linkage parts. I will try and bend the frayed end and see if I can make it straight enough to get it through choke linkage hole.

Lastly, found either a major or minor problem, I was driving home before I replaced the carby above, my fuel guage was reading half a tank of fuel left in the tank, I filled the car up and had only driven 280 kilometers before this issue happened, and just randomly at 60km/h the car just dies on me, no lights came up on the dash it just dies and now I am rolling, I roll off to the side of the road and the vehicle just stopped. I turn the car off and try to crank the car and it wont crank over, there is still fuel in the fuel filter and I am pushing the throttle linkage up and down to see if any fuel is squirting into the carby and I get nothing, I am stranded on the side of the rode, I know the fuel pump is working and fuel lines are good filter is good everything is good because I double checked everything with my grandparent the weekend before.

So I call my dad up to tell him to bring me 20Litres of fuel in a jerry can, because I suspect I have ran out of Fuel even though my fuel guage is reading that I still have half a tank worths. I fill the car up and sure enough the car starts and able to drive it home no problems and drive it the next day pick a few things up at supercheap auto and drive it to my grandparents house to swap over my carby.

So now I need to figure out this issue that has occured, 280 kilometers of driving is super low for 40 litres of fuel, I did fill up before full tank and was able to drive it atleast 350 kilometers before it went to just abit above 1/4th of a tank that was with high idle of 1200rpm. No fuel light warning came up on the dash, so I suspect there was still half a tanks worth of fuel in there left. Just wondering does anyone have an idea of what could be the problem, possibly faulty fuel guage, maybe the in tank sending unit is worn.

What I am going to have to do now is keep a jerry can of fuel in my car incase this problem happens again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by knibusu
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So now you know the issue was your carby get yourself a carby kit and rebuild it then you will have the original on and that should make all your idle adjustments easier to perform. A kit costs about $80. You need a clean workspace and a couple of hours and it will be done. I rebuilt the carby on my daughters 4k with zero experience I learned as I went along. It was very satisfying when i reinstalled it on the engine and it fired up first go and idled perfectly. Its been going ever since.

Cheers

G

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The running out of fuel, when there is still fuel in the tank, is suggesting to me; that there is a crack or break in the pickup pipe, between the top of the fuel tank, & the bottom pick up point.  Once the fuel gets down a bit, the break in the pipe, partway down, gets exposed, & sucks in air.

I'm afraid, it's time for the tank to come out, for a complete inspection & clean.  You cannot do any thing inside the tank, or even remove the pick up assembly; unless the tank is removed.  While it is out, make sure you check the fuel sender unit.

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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