Fuel and gearbox issue

[knibusu]

So guys after endless struggles to get the old girl running smoothly, and bursting my heater hose on the way home from work, its safe to say she is running MINT!!!!.

So with the second hand AISAN carby I bought of the bloke still having idling issues, I was using that to get me to work as I had no car, sadly on the way home one afternoon, my heater hose decides to split, pissing coolant all in my engine bay I was 5 minutes until I reach home, I risk driving it home, as I had no money for a tow truck, temp was fluctuating between 50% and 70% of the guage, I know I was loosing coolant, but still had enough. I finally got home opened my thermostat housing and started and got my garden hose with a garden fitting that allows me to shoot a strong straight jet stream of water 4 psi, stuck it into the housing and just ran the water for a good 10 minutes to cool the block, it was hot sprayed the engine and it was steaming, After I cooled the engine down filled the radiator up with the leftover Toyota Red Coolant I had and sat in my drive way until I could find a hose for my heater.

Measured the old hose and had a ID of 18mm, check online hoses either came in 16mm or 19mm, I did not want to risk running a hose to small or too big, so after searching for 3 days I came accross a VL heater hose which had a ID of 18mm also "Heater Pipe Front VL RB30 6cyl - CH1964" that I cut that pretty much matched perfectly to the old heater hose. On the weekend I installed the new heater hose and topped up my coolant, and she was running again. Once I done the coolant I though I mise well check my idle speed and vacuum. Idle was running at 950rpm and vacuum was reading in the green.

The carby started to give me headaches again, I drove it Thursday to work and it was not responsive at all, then I watched some videos, and found out I read my vacuum gauge wrong, instead of being in the green it had to be at highest vacuum which is usually 21 on the guage on the stock 4KC carby, mine was reading at 19.5 and running too rich.

I didnt drive the car to work and caught transperth to get to work, on the Saturday. I rechecked everything I replaced every single old vacuum hoses with new hose, I could not get the car to idle below 800rpm so to fix this with the dash pot I removed the spring that gives tension for the screw this allowed me to get the idle down to 750rpm I believe something is not creating vacuum or the dash pot is buggered it does retract when I attach a hose and suck so maybe its not pulling vacuum but honestly I don't know so the best option was for me to take the spring and just wind it down lower to idle the rpms lower.

By removing the spring it allowed me to get the oem spec idle of 750rpm. I then turned the idle speed screw in where it would just touch the backing. and from there.

I plugged in my vacuum gauge. What I did was take out the bolt in the manifold and bought a barb fitting that fitted in to run the vacuum gauge off this point so that all my emissions lines and air box could still be attached which I think is the best possible way to get the best vacuum reading. Then while using a tachometer, and vacuum gauge, I turned my mixture screw all the way in clockwise, then turned 1 and a half turns outward so anti clockwise and that was my base, I started the car up and let the engine get to operating temp, then I slowly leaned the mixture out until I found the highest vacuum on the vacuum gauge, which is where I got it to 21 the highest vacuum I could achieve.

Now with the carby tuned, time to clean the sucker. I really thought that I needed to rebuild the original carby and or even the second carby I bought as I do suspect my fuel tank is slightly rusted out, but for the time being I went ahead and used carby cleaner, with the engine warm I turned the car off and sprayed around the carby and inside the carby I opened up the throttle linkage to full throttle and gave a good spray and let it soak for a good 10 minutes to release any carbon build up in the manifold and around the butterflys. I turned the car on and let the engine warm up again, and this time while running using the throttle linkage gave it revs in bursts everytime I would burst the revs I would spray the carby cleaner to let the carby suck in the carby cleaner and hopefully clean the jets and anything else that may have been blocked inside the carby body.

One last thing I decided to do is run a secondary fuel filter just before mechanical fuel pump so if any fine rust particles get picked up in the main fuel filter the secondary fuel filter will filter out those fine rust particles or dirt, I picked up a generic wesfil inline fuel filter form Autobarn for like $6.

Photo of main line to Mechanical Fuel Pump.

 

So after doing all these things to the car, safe to say the car is running MINT!!!!, now I just have to see if the car will cold start tomorrow on a 12 degree morning.

I hope this long post helps someone in the future that may be having similar problems to me because man it can be a struggle but once you fix things its such a good feeling and feel proud of what you have achieved, the fuel tank will be dropped in the future as well as this time though I need to move my sedan out of the garage and find a place to store it.

If you want to follow my KE70 Instagram Page, IG:knibusu and I do have a YouTube Channel - KNIBBZY

Edited August 5, 2023 by knibusu

[altezzaclub]

If you run into that hose problem ever again, just stop straight away and let it cool down enough to take the rad cap off. Put it back on loosely enough that it wont hold any pressure, then just tape over the split hose and drive it home.  So long as it doesn't go over 100deg it will be fine running with zero pressure in the system, and I always carry a roll of duct tape in the boot.

I see the wagon has the ever-present rust in the rear 1/4 window, how's the sedan?

[knibusu]

Yeah I really should keep some duck tape in the car, yeah the wagon also has some surface rust on the roof too, and abit on the rear window around the seal which I need to repair soonish before it gets bad, the sedan is pretty good no structual rust but mainly around the front windscreen and on the pillars and the boot seal other than that pretty mint. 

I was meant to spray can the rest of the car but after getting the wagon I got slack.

And now for the rusteezzzz

Thats about all the major rust then, its just light surface rust on other parts of the car were I have sanded and grinded it back, and sprayed the primer to stop it from spreading.

 

[knibusu]

So guys I finally got around to dropping my tank and yeah its pretty bad, probably the main cause of my ke70 not running/stalling out/shutting off on me.

No wonder I was having running issues related to fuel, and carby.

This is my fuel sending unit, does anyone know where I can get a wagon specific fuel sending unit or could I use a KE70 Sedan one.

Here is the part number of the KE70 Wagon Fuel Sending Unit

 

Also my fuel tank has a intank fuel cap flapper door made out of plastic, its like on a hinge near the filler neck and there is also a plastic tube surround on one of the fuel lines inside the tank, can you remove those or are they not removable, as I am getting my tank cleaned, rust treated and lined with red kote, but if I cannot get these two things removed in the fuel tank, I may not be able to re line my tank, unless I get them to cut open the tank and see if they can remove it and get them to reweld tank but that is going to cost more money if thats the case i reckon.  

[altezzaclub]

A year or two back I bought a new fuel sender unit off Ebay, but the thing only reads zero to half a tank, even when filled up. Actually, when I got it the reading was half to full, so it ran out of fuel at half, I could move its zero point OK, but the range is too small.

I figure its for the flat tank in a wagon, so if you get a sedan one by accident we can swap!