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KE30 3TC conversion, need answers


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Hello! New to the forum!

We just recently bought a KE30, the P.O swapped it with a 3TC, a 5 speed transmission (not sure if it is a T50 or K50 trans), and an all disc brake.

Here is the pic of the car:


Upon inspecting the car, I noticed that the front part of the engine (near the rad), is raised up a little bit, I read in some forums that you will be needing the 2TC mounts for it. My question would be is it only the rubber mounts that you need when swapping it with a 3TC? or do you also need the 2TC metal brackets that holds the block? or I can use the 3TC metal brackets but use the 2TC rubber mounts?

Here is a pic of the engine bay before we bought it. (Yes, I know, it's dirty):


I am concerned with the angle of the engine as it affects the angle of the transmission yoke, prematurely wearing the cross joint bearings, and currently needs replacing, so if fix the cross joint bearings, I also want to address the reason why is it wearing prematurely.

Someone said that a 3TC mount is used in our car, the ones found in the KE70s or TE70s


Also are these 2T brackets? And will I be needing these to correct the conversion?




Edited by Magnelite
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The main engine mounts are welded to the crossmember, then there are engine mounts bolted to the engine block.

The mounts welded to the crossmember are spaced quite differently between a K engine and a T engine.  There is a difference between fitting the engine into the engine bay, and fitting it correctly.

It's very likely that the original crossmember to suit a K engine is still in the car, and they have worked around it at the engine block end.  That is always going to be a compromise.  You need to find out what they did to fit the engine in.

If it is a K crossmember, have they cut and rewelded the mounts?  Your options are to redo that properly, or source a T crossmember for this car from either Japan or the USA as we never had T engines in these cars in Australia (edit: I see you are from Philippines).  I would source the correct crossmember.  Not as expensive as it might seem, and probably cheaper than trying to work around using a K crossmember.

It probably had a different sway bar with T engine also, so you may need to work around that or the sump may sit on the swaybar.  It's been done lots of time so isn't rocket science.  Look through the build threads as there is likely the very same issue outlined there.

Edited by parrot
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BTW, those brackets that bolt to the block look like T engine brackets.  If you do have swaybar issues, you can probably solve that using a TA22 swaybar.

This is a picture comparing crossmembers for a KE25 and a TE27.  Basically the same car with either a K engine or a T engine.

Gives some idea of the differences between the two



Edited by parrot
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