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7k Into Ke10


madrolla68

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All I use for my tuning is my eyes and my spark plugs.

might sound really primative, but it works for me.

Never had the car properly tuned, only time mechanics have looked under the hood is when I'm giving a mate a laugh!! so have no idea of AFR's

yeah, just run here nice and rich.

 

Do you know how to read a spark plug?

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All I use for my tuning is my eyes and my spark plugs.

might sound really primative, but it works for me.

Never had the car properly tuned, only time mechanics have looked under the hood is when I'm giving a mate a laugh!! so have no idea of AFR's

yeah, just run here nice and rich.

 

Do you know how to read a spark plug?

 

Well not really but I'm learning,any hints.

 

What comp ratio are you running and with what head gasket. Genuine or aftermarket.

 

How much total timing do you use under full boost conditions

 

Mine is O'ringed with a copper gasket but just wanted to know what you are using.

 

How often do you drive it hard ,has it lasted a while so far the engine

Edited by madrolla68
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ok, with your plugs:

 

the outer ring on the edge of the thread is the bottom end, and the tip (bend bit) is your top end.

to read the mix, you just need to know the colours. stoich is a nice dry black, over rich is also black, but you will notice if you take the plugs out after it has just runs, there is still some visible fuel on the plug. then for your leans, if they have that brownish tinge it is starting to lean out a bit, and if they start turning white then you're into danger zone.

 

If you're ever querying your electronic readings, check the plugs - they can't make computing error!! :P :y:

 

comp ratio is standard, or maybe a pooftenth higher as this head has been skimmed a couple of times.

Just using a permaseal H/G at the mo, as that is what was available.

 

Timing is locked at 20o BTDC.

 

the car has been running boost since august last year. Blew a couple of head gaskets about 2 months later, due to full timing advance. since then I haven't changed a lot, apart from timing!! :P so its been running well now for over a year with no issues. ;)

the car gets given driven hard every time I drive it!! ;) which would be 4-5 times a week. I have a work van I drive to work, so the coroola is a bit of a run about & fun car, and my mazda is sorta a weekend cruiser.

 

With so o-rings, and the copper gasket, you should have no dramas at all!!

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ok, with your plugs:

 

the outer ring on the edge of the thread is the bottom end, and the tip (bend bit) is your top end.

to read the mix, you just need to know the colours. stoich is a nice dry black, over rich is also black, but you will notice if you take the plugs out after it has just runs, there is still some visible fuel on the plug. then for your leans, if they have that brownish tinge it is starting to lean out a bit, and if they start turning white then you're into danger zone.

 

If you're ever querying your electronic readings, check the plugs - they can't make computing error!! :P :y:

 

comp ratio is standard, or maybe a pooftenth higher as this head has been skimmed a couple of times.

Just using a permaseal H/G at the mo, as that is what was available.

 

Timing is locked at 20o BTDC.

 

the car has been running boost since august last year. Blew a couple of head gaskets about 2 months later, due to full timing advance. since then I haven't changed a lot, apart from timing!! :P so its been running well now for over a year with no issues. ;)

the car gets given driven hard every time I drive it!! ;) which would be 4-5 times a week. I have a work van I drive to work, so the coroola is a bit of a run about & fun car, and my mazda is sorta a weekend cruiser.

 

With so o-rings, and the copper gasket, you should have no dramas at all!!

 

Ok then maybe mine is just too lean ey,because they are always brownish looking.

 

So you run std comp ratio in your 4K right???? which is 9.0/1 or.

 

And you are just using STD pistons not forgies or nothing like that.

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That looks like a really good install you have going on. going back to the 7k as i am when i get reg and the 4k in will be stroking my 5k with 7k crank and rods and making forgies to suit and when researching found that bore is same its all in the block length and stroke so the block and the rest as by the sounds fitted no worries.

custom copper head gaskets can be purchased from RIDGECREST engineering in dromana vic if needed can get details but they are on net so google her they do allsorts of wierd stuff. and they make really cool rods to. bit pricey though.

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That looks like a really good install you have going on. going back to the 7k as i am when i get reg and the 4k in will be stroking my 5k with 7k crank and rods and making forgies to suit and when researching found that bore is same its all in the block length and stroke so the block and the rest as by the sounds fitted no worries.

custom copper head gaskets can be purchased from RIDGECREST engineering in dromana vic if needed can get details but they are on net so google her they do allsorts of wierd stuff. and they make really cool rods to. bit pricey though.

 

 

Yeah thanks man, i already have a copper gasket fitted.

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Ok then maybe mine is just too lean ey,because they are always brownish looking.

 

So you run std comp ratio in your 4K right???? which is 9.0/1 or.

 

And you are just using STD pistons not forgies or nothing like that.

 

yeah all stocko, only thing that isn't stock in the whole motor is your 609!!

 

I lower my C/R at the time of firing with the retarded timing. :)

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you can always drop comp with a big turbo cam as the big overlap and duration will leave the valves slightly open therefore lowering operating comp. i think from memory that 609 is quite large that and timming it all ads up before you know it 9to1 turns to 8.0to1.

What power do you make thats the big question

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you can always drop comp with a big turbo cam as the big overlap and duration will leave the valves slightly open therefore lowering operating comp. i think from memory that 609 is quite large that and timming it all ads up before you know it 9to1 turns to 8.0to1.

What power do you make thats the big question

 

Yeah ive got a bigger cam now than the 609 ,little less lift but more duration.

 

I'm running dished 5K pistons (not the D shaped ones) and a 3K bigport head so the comp ratio should be around 8.5/ 1

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  • 2 weeks later...
Yep.

I don't know what kind of 7k people are talking about but 3,4,5K sumps don't fit. The 7K block is about 10mm wider so the studs just don't line up with the holes in the oil pan. This wider block is also the reason why the engine mounts don't line up perfectly.

How do I know this? I've got 5K and 7k motors and I've had them in and out of my race car.

 

So, 4K engine mounts will not be right to accomadate a 7K?

 

Did the 7K fit in your race car with its stock sump? From what other people said... they had to use a different sump? Have some conflicting information here, who can shed some light on this?

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So, 4K engine mounts will not be right to accomadate a 7K?

 

Did the 7K fit in your race car with its stock sump? From what other people said... they had to use a different sump? Have some conflicting information here, who can shed some light on this?

 

Ok ,true info required.

 

Here it is.

 

The engine mounts will bolt on to the engine but need to be modified as the 7K block is wider of around 11 mm.

 

The sump WILL need to be modified extensively if you are putting the engine ina a KE10/15 as the trans tunnel is not big enough to accomodate lifting the engine too much to let the sump clear the crossmember.

 

THEY ARE THE FACTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Ok ,true info required.

 

Here it is.

 

The engine mounts will bolt on to the engine but need to be modified as the 7K block is wider of around 11 mm.

 

The sump WILL need to be modified extensively if you are putting the engine ina a KE10/15 as the trans tunnel is not big enough to accomodate lifting the engine too much to let the sump clear the crossmember.

 

THEY ARE THE FACTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

What he said! :)

 

Also, I don't think a 7K crank can be be put into one of the smaller K blocks. It's longer stroke crank looks like it would hit the sides of the smaller block. This is why the 7K block is wider.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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