Raven Posted May 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I'll have to look them up. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 So my $900 from K.Rudd rolled into my bank account today. Tomorrow I find out the name of a Soda Blaster who lives around the area near where I work. Following that, I may need a little more cash and then the car gets soda blasted once the diff is out and all fuel lines have been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 Just to cure my curiousity, I called a Sandblasting place to see what they would charge to blast the car. Their price - $700 to do everything. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted May 8, 2009 Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 thats actually a good price ey... sand blasting would be my recommendation for a resto... is that price inside and out? underneath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 Just outside the car. I thought it wasnt too bad, though the metal is pretty thin, they may warp it if they're not careful. Sodablasting on the other hand doesnt generate heat, so will have to find out how much that will cost as well. The downside to Sodablasting is that it doesnt remove rust, whereas Sandblasting does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted May 8, 2009 Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 (edited) hmmm interesting. well yea my uncle has a mazda 1300 wags. when he got it sand blasted he told em not to do the quarter panels because of that reason. and yea because it gets rid of rust, i feel its way better. who wants to remove rust? I hate rust!!! will save alot of time also. basically eliminates any possibility of missing a spot of rust.. EDIT: when they sandblast a car would they primer it or give it to ya bare metal... Edited May 8, 2009 by Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2009 hmmm interesting. well yea my uncle has a mazda 1300 wags.when he got it sand blasted he told em not to do the quarter panels because of that reason. and yea because it gets rid of rust, i feel its way better. who wants to remove rust? I hate rust!!! will save alot of time also. basically eliminates any possibility of missing a spot of rust.. EDIT: when they sandblast a car would they primer it or give it to ya bare metal... You get it back as a bare metal shell. Nothing a coat of fish oil wont fix to stop it from rusting :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) And the slow progress continues.... Finally found a pair of ratchet axle stands today for $50 from Autobarn, so got the back end up off the ground. I then proceeded to remove the steering column, steering box, castor rods and sway bar and lastly, the engine cross-member. This was the final pic of the day. Not much to show really except that the front end is more or less completely stripped and the pic is blurry :P Next Saturday though, the diff is coming out and if I have some time, I may remove the brake and fuel lines that run from the front to back of the car. Edited May 9, 2009 by Raven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappy Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 I would strongly advise against sand blasting large panels e.g. 1/4 Panels, Roof, Doors or Bonnet. A guy we raced with got a shell sand blasted and they blasted the roof and 1/4's and they were so bad we had to put a new roof and heavily bog the 1/4 panels due to the warping and damage of the sand blasting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) I would strongly advise against sand blasting large panels e.g. 1/4 Panels, Roof, Doors or Bonnet. A guy we raced with got a shell sand blasted and they blasted the roof and 1/4's and they were so bad we had to put a new roof and heavily bog the 1/4 panels due to the warping and damage of the sand blasting I've heard not so good things about sand blasting and believe me, I'm weighing up my options. The only problem with soda blasting is that it doesnt remove the rust or body filler that is all over the car. It also depends on who you get to do the work. I'll personally be going around to a few sandblasters and having a talk with them and make a decision on who to consider and who not to consider when it comes to blasting the KE25, as I'm going to want someone who will take the utmost care in blasting the car, not some mcboob with a heavy trigger finger. Edited May 9, 2009 by Raven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 (edited) good thinking.. your engine bay looks nearly as bad as mine :P thought about powder coating the front end steering/susp components? thats what I'm doing... Edited May 9, 2009 by Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styler Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 i got my old ke25 shell sandblasted by an experienced car guy who did it carefully, turned out with some pros and cons in the end. he used a medium garnit to do it and i asked him to take out the bog as well and if he could and go easy on the outside panels. cost was $450 and took a few hours to do all over as a rolling shell, inside, outside engine bay, underneath, boot, wheel wells etc... pros: completely strips all that old crappy paint, muck off etc strips the complex curves and angles that would takes months by hand. leaves a shiny clean rust free surface to etch prime. gets into hard to reach places. very cheap vs hand sanding not messy like paint stripper doesnt remove boxed section protective coating like acid dipping. shows up all previous damage and removes bog to bare metal again if requested. cons: does leave a finely dimpled surface but primer will cover it after a sanded coat or 2. can easily warp or ripple thin large sections, ie rear quarters and roof. sand gets into box sections and recesses. removes factory rust protection process. I'm all for it, just do the outside panels, doors, roof, guards etc... all big thin panels by paintstripper or sanding or soda blast?? and engine bay, underneath, boot etc by sandblasting. this will protect you against warped panels and the ke25's have thin panels i have been told. its really a big problem if it warps the panels obviously and you wouldnt even attempt to repair it as its way too costly if even possible. also tape or plug holes you don't want sand to enter into, saves a lot of time with the air gun and vac cleaner after which also takes a few hours to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Soda blasting actually leaves a thin layer of something that protects the bare metal. meaning it can stay in its blasted state longer than sand blasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budowski Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Talked to anymore guys about this yet mick? looks like some good advice about the larger panels there. Need a hand let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Matt: If I need a hand, I'll be sure to sing out, but everything seems to be going rather smoothly at the moment, which is a good thing. Spent 4 hours today pulling out the diff and rear suspension, removing a few more bits and pieces and discovering where it was that the car leaked water into. So this was whipped out at a leisurely pace today. Which lead to it looking something like this.... And this..... I also had the old man heat up and pop out the dent in the floor just under the passenger seat from the previous owner and we also removed the front vents, and then removed the sound deadening behind them to discover more rust holes inside the cowling (which I now know where my water leaks were coming from when the car was on the road). Nothing bigger than a fifty cent piece, but that means I may as well pull out the complete heater assembly inside the car as well so this can be welded up properly. So next weekend I'll tackle the dash and we'll hammer and chisel out the sound deadening inside the car. Happy happy fun times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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