Rollaclub - User contributions [en]

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2009-07-11T23:19:09Z

MedicineMan: /* Electrical */

'''Welcome to the Rollaclub FAQ'''

This FAQ Has been migrated to WIKI format from the Oldcorollas FAQ, maintained by Super Jamie.

Further Discussion of any articles here may be made on the:
[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldcorollas/ Old Corollas Yahoo Group]
and
[http://www.rollaclub.com/board/ Rollaclub Messageboard]

= Tech =

== Engine ==

=== K Series ===

==== General Information ====

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator|Alternator]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft|Camshaft]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Carburettor|Carburettor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI|Electronic Fuel Injection]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System|Emissions System]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Exhaust|Exhaust]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel|Flywheel]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Filter|Fuel Filter]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Fuel Pump|Fuel Pump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads|Heads]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor|How to build a tough K motor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)|How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/K|KE1x Series K Engine Specific Info]]

[[Tech:Engine/Mounts|Mounts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Distrib|Nippon Denso Distributor Part Numbers]]

[[Oil Pump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Starter Motor|Starter Motor]]

[[Sump]]

[[Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque_Settings|Torque Settings]]

[[Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit|TRD Uprite Kit]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4kstall|What is a fuel solenoid?]]

==== K (1077cc) ====

==== 2K (993cc) ====

==== 3K (1166cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Bigport Head|Bigport Head]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/3K-B/Factory Twin Carbs|Factory Twin Carbs]]

==== 4K (1290cc) ====

'''------------4K-C'''

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram|4K-C Emission System Diagram]]

'''------------4K-E'''

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Injectors|Injectors]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-E/Rocker Cover|Rocker Cover]]

==== 5K (1496cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion|5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion]]

==== 7K (1812cc) ====

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Distributor|Distributor]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold|Intake Manifold]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Pinouts|Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/K_Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes|Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes]]

=== A Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/A-Series Engine FAQ|A-Series Engine FAQ]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Alternator Wiring Diagram|Alternator Wiring Diagram]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Cooling Guide|Cooling Guide]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Crossmembers|Crossmembers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/ECU Pinouts|ECU Pinouts]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Electronic 4AC dizzy|Electronic 4AC dizzy]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/External Thermostat|External Thermostat]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Heads|Heads]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Injectors|Injectors]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank|Installing EFI Lifter Pump into AE86 Fuel Tank]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Internals|Internals]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Part Numbers|Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rear Water Outlet|Rear Water Outlet]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Rebuilding Your 4ag(z)e|Rebuilding Your 4AG(Z)E]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Replacing Your Timing Belt|Replacing Your Timing Belt]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Toyota Part Numbers|Toyota Part Numbers]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/TVIS|What Is TVIS?]]

[[Tech:Engine/A Series/Wiring Diagrams|Wiring Diagrams]]

[[Removing the Air Bypass Valve on a 4agze]]

=== S Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Head|Head]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/EFI|EFI]]

[[Tech:Engine/S Series/Converting to RWD|Converting to RWD]]

=== T Series ===

[[Tech:Engine/T Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

[[Tech:Engine/T Series/Gearboxes|Gearboxes]]

=== E Series ===
[[Tech:Engine/E Series/Blocks|Blocks]]

== [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System]] ==

[[EFI]]

[[Fuel]]

[[How To Set Up Your Fuel System]]

== [[:Category: Drivetrain | Drivetrain]] ==

(In logical order of drivetrain after the flywheel)

[[Tech:Drivetrain/Bellhousing|Bellhousing]]

[[Clutch]]

[[Automatic Gearbox]]

[[Manual Gearbox]]

[[Tailshaft]]

[[Differential Gears]]

[[Differential Housing]]

[[Axles]]

--[[User:Grimwolge|Grimwolge]] 12:46, 18 Jul 2005 (EST)

== Suspension ==

[[Rear Leaf Springs]]

[[Stud Pattern]]

[[KE55 Front Strut Upgrades]]

=== KE1x Suspension ===

[[Replacing front strut inserts on your KE1x]]

[[Lowering KE1x Front using KE2x parts]]

== Brakes ==

[[Front Disc Brakes]]

[[Rear Disc Brakes]]

== Electrical ==

[[Alternator]]

[[Dash Cluster]]

[[Distributor]]

[[Headlights]]

[[Relays]]

[[Starter Motor]]

[[Spark Plug Types]]

[[Tachometer]]

[[Thermo Fan]]

[[Wiring Diagrams]]

== Emission Systems ==

[[Emission System Abbreviations|Emission System Abbreviations]]

[[Emission System Components|Emission System Components]]

== Reference Material ==

[[Corolla Model Numbers]]

[[Homologations]] - Listing of FIA Homologated Corollas for Group 1-4 and Group A

[[Books]]

Codes - Engine, Body, Axle

Service

Torque Specs

* [[Reference:What Carb| What Carb is that ?]]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/AE86Manual.pdf.gz AE86 Manual]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/KE70_Chassis_Electrical_System.pdf KE70 Chassis Electrical System]

* [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/Starlet_Manual_Supplement_&_Revisions.zip KP61 Starlet Manual includes 4KE EFI]

* [http://home.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ Blacktop 4AGE Manual]

= Maintenance =

== Body ==
* [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust| Fixing Rust]]

== Engine ==
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising| Decarbonising an engine]]

== Suspension ==
* [[Maintenance:Suspension/Control Arm Bushes| Control Arm Bushes]]

= Upgrades =
[[Upgrades:Ke55 boot release|Ke55 Boot Release]]

[[Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71| Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71]]

[[Upgrades:Hilux Diff Conversion| Hilux Diff Conversion Into KE55]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch|KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20| KE70 K50 into 3K powered KE20]]

[[Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring|KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring]]

[[Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor|Nikki carb onto K motor]]

[[Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms| Sigma Control Arms]]

== Engineering your Car ==

===[[Overview]]===

[[South Australia]]

[[Victoria]]

= History =
[[History:60s |The '60s]]

[[History:70s |The '70s]]

[[History:80s |The '80s]]

[[History:90s |The '90s]]

[[History:Racing | Racing]]

= Related =
[[Car Movies]]

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the bit where jamie can edit the main page is cool :D

Rear Disc Brakes

2008-09-07T09:02:41Z

MedicineMan:

There has been talk of using Series 1/2 RX7 rear discs on a KE20. Apparently the RX7 disc hat just slips on over the axle flange and is held on by the wheel.

Terry Trewern welded a KE30 caliper backing plate onto the diff housing and used KE30 calipers. I think you could use RX7 calipers and modify the disc mount so it bolts up to the diff (or just make your own caliper mount from steel plate). From what I'm told, these RX7s had cable handbrake as well, so it should be pretty easy to get passed engineering (you will need a mechanical handbrake to get engineered, you can't just have a hydraulic system alone).

'''Pintara option'''

Guys on the internet always seem to use Pintara discs and calipers on the back of Datsuns, this might be worth looking into. Alternatively, you can mount Pintara discs and calipers onto an RA28 diff (and possibly other similar). You will need to slot the Pintara backing plates so that it bolts onto the diff flange. You will then need to file the backing plate slightly, and use a spacer to mount the caliper further out in order to clear the disc (I think the RA28 axles make the discs sit out a bit further than stock). Brake pipes are almost the same as stock, just need to bend them to face forward instead of facing out.

In order to get the handbrake (drum system) to work on this set up, you'll need the handbrake set up out of the Pintara, or other live axle Datsun such as the 180B. From here you have 2 options - you can either re-use the Corolla handbrake lever (which entails a bit of stuffing around), or you can use the handbrake lever out of the Datsun as well. Some of the older Datsuns (1200, 180B etc) have a VERY simple handbrake mechanism that has the cable coming out the back of the lever, and from here you can pass it through the floor and onwards to your brakes. This is especially useful if you want to relocate your mechanical handbrake to make space for something else (like a hydraulic handbrake :) )

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page:Brakes Brakes]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Emission System Abbreviations

2008-09-07T08:58:44Z

MedicineMan:

== '''Emission Systems Abbreviations''' ==

The following are a list of abbreviations used when discussing Toyota Emission Control Systems.

'''General'''

AAP - Auxiliary Acceleration Pump.

AI - Air Injection.

AS - Air Suction.

ASV - Air Switching Valve.

BDC - Bottom Dead Center.

BTDC - Before Top Dead Center.

BVSV - Bimetal Vacuum Switching Valve.

CB - Choke Breaker.

CCo - Catalytic Converter for Oxidation.

CCro - Catalytic Converter for Reduction and Oxidation.

CLD - Chemi-Luminescence Detector.

CMH - Cold Mixture Heater.

CVS - Constant-Volume Sampler.

DP - Dash Pot.

EBCV - Electric Bleed Control Valve.

EEC - European Economic Community.

ECS - Emission Control System.

ECU - Electronic Control Unit (Computer).

EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

EVAP - Evaporative (Emission Control) System.

EX - Exhaust.

FID - Flame Ionization Detector.

GVW - Gross Vehicle Weight.

HAC - High Altitude Compensation.

HAI - Hot Air Intake.

HIC - Hot Idle Compensation.

IG - Ignition.

ITCV - Intake Air Temperature Compensating Valve.

MC - Mixture Control.

NDIR - Non-Dispersive Infared.

OC - Oxidation Catalyst.

OVCV - Outer Vent Control Valve.

PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

PPM - Parts Per Million.

SC - Spark Control.

SW - Switch.

TDC - Top Dead Center.

TP - Throttle Positioner.

TVSV - Thermostatic Vacuum Switching Valve.

TWC - Three-Way Catalyst.

TWC-OC - Three-Way Catalyst and Oxidation Catalyst.

VCV - Vacuum Control Valve.

VSV - Vacuum Switching Valve.

VTV - Vacuum Transmitting Valve.

w/ - With.

w/o - Without.

'''Chemical Symbols'''

Ar - Argon.

C - Carbon.

C8H18 - Octane (Petrol).

CO - Carbon Monoxide.

C02 - Carbon Dioxide.

H - Hydrogen.

HC - Hydrocarbon.

H2O - Water.

N2 - Nitrogen.

NOx - Oxides of Nitrogen (NO, NO2, N2O, N2O3 etc).

O2 - Oxygen.

O3 - Ozone.

Pb - Lead.

S - Sulfur.

SO2 - Sulfur Dioxide.

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Emission_Systems Emission Systems]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Emission System Components

2008-09-07T08:58:24Z

MedicineMan:

== '''Emission Systems Components''' ==

[[Image:BVSV.jpg]]

[[Image:VSV.jpg]]

[[Image:VTV.jpg]]

[[Image:TVSV.jpg]]

[[Image:EBCV.jpg]]

[[Image:HAC.jpg]]

[[Image:DashPot.jpg]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Emission_Systems Emission Systems]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Upgrades:Sigma Control Arms

2008-09-07T08:56:29Z

MedicineMan:

== (GH) Sigma Control Arms ==

Lower control arms from a GH Sigma can be fitted In a KE70/AE71/AE86, They give you around -5 degrees of camber and increase track by 60mm. longer tie rod ends need to be fitted once you have made this modification (apparently RA40 celica ones are the go).

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''Article by Gilly / Fozz / nickyboy / Medicine_Man''

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Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Upgrades Upgrades]

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Upgrades:Nikki Carb onto K motor

2008-09-07T08:55:03Z

MedicineMan:

The only thing preventing a Gemini carby from bolting straight on, is the fact that it sits too low and the throttle linkage will jam against the intake manifold. The way to modify it to fit is to acquire an extra base gasket to step the carby up a bit higher. You then have to shave a piece off the throttle arm, where it will hit the intake manifold. By doing this you also need longer studs to mount the carby to the intake manifold as the stock studs are too short to get the bolt on. You then have to enlarge the hole in where the accelerator cable connects, as the hole is smaller than the cylinder on the end of the original Corolla accelerator cable. Once it fits you have to crimp something over the other end above the accelerator pedal so there is no play in the cable. Or alternatively you can take the cable somewhere to get it shortened..

'''Disclaimer : Mazda Nikki Carbs may be a bit smaller than the Holden Gemini (Isuzu Gemini) Nikki Carbys. This might make finding a suitable aftermarket air filter box a bit harder. Also, certain parts of this How-To may not be relevant with the smaller carby. Discussion of this issue can be found [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=3894 here]''' - Demuire

''Stuff you will need for the conversion''..

1. Gemini carby (Auto Choke)

2. Intake Manifold Base Gasket (Ripped one off a 4K at the wreckers)

3. Longer Studs to mount carb (pulled a few off a Gemini motor exhaust manifold)

4. Gasket Paper

5. Fuel line / Hose clamps

6. Thin metal tube to crimp over accelerator cable

7. Sports air filter to suit Gemini carby

[[Image:Dscn2777.jpg]]

----

Once you have ripped off the old carby, shave the knob off the intake manifold (Marked by the red arrow). Now put on the second base gasket as pictured (Block all the ends marked in blue so you don't end up with a vacuum leak). Thirdly you will need to shave a small piece off the throttle linkage on the Gemini carby. Just test fit the carby at this stage and make sure you can open the throttle linkage to full throttle. Once you know that it no longer has clearance issues with the intake manifold you will need to trace and cut out some more gaskets from the gasket paper. (You will need 3 in total). These go in between the exhaust manifold and the first base gasket, in between the first base gasket and the second base gasket and in between the second base gasket and the carby.

[[Image:Dscn4106.jpg]]

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This picture shows you where you need to shave a piece off the throttle linkage so that it doesn't catch on the intake manifold. (Shown with the red arrow). Also block where the blue arrow is so you don't have a vacuum leak there too.

[[Image:Dscn4123.jpg]]

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Next drill out the accelerator cable housing in the throttle linkage (Shown by the red arrow) so it can fit the larger cylinder in the end of the accelerator cable.

[[Image:Dscn4142.jpg]]

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Once the carby is ready to mount on the intake manifold, replace any of the studs that aren't long enough to get bolts on (marked by the blue lines) and also re-connect the PCV line (marked by the red arrow) Now you can bolt the carby back down.

[[Image:Dscn4109.jpg]]

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Crimp a piece of metal tube over the accelerator cable above the accelerator pedal (I cut a piece of tube down one side with a hacksaw and crimped it over the end with a few zip ties. Then connect up the accelerator cable and adjust it up. Connect a line up from your carby to your distributers vacuum advance (from the point marked with a red arrow).

[[Image:Dscn2778.jpg]]

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Next you can connect power up to your carbys fuel solenoid (you should hear it click when you connect it to power) I used the same power source that the origional carby used (Ignition switched 12V) best not to have it always chewing power) also you can connect the other wire to the same spot, the other wire just warms up a coil inside the carby to open the choke up.

[[Image:Dscn4121.jpg]]

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Now its just a matter of Connecting your fuel line up and clamping it down and installing an aftermarket sports air filter. You might also wish to invest in an oil catch can, I found that connecting the air filter up to the tappit cover casing gunked up the air filters pretty quick.

[[Image:Dscn6947.jpg]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Upgrades Upgrades]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Upgrades:KE70 Single to Twin Headlight Wiring

2008-09-07T08:54:43Z

MedicineMan:

When converting from KE70 single to twin headlights, You need to power up the inner lights on high beam. This can be done by simply tapping a power feed into one side of the inner headlight filament and a high beam frame connection to the other. KE70 headlights are negatively switched via the headlight combo switch. You will need to use the Red/Black and Red/Green wires across either pin on the inner light (They are not polarity conscious). Don't panic about the double up of wires in the connectors, they are common to each other and you can join the new wires to either one. Below I have provided the entire KE70 headlight schematic.

Note: If you have already done this, Feel free to PM me your findings..

[[Image:KE70 Headlight Connector Wiring Colours.jpg]]

Red/Black - Common 12v (Switched 12v feed via headlight relay when low beam activated).

Red/Green - Low Beam Frame (Switched to frame via combo switch - Headlight Switch).

Red/Yellow - High Beam Frame (Switched to frame via combo switch - Dip Switch).

[[Image:KE70 Twin Headlights.jpg]]

[[Image:KE70 Wiring Diagram - Lamp Circuit Legend.jpg]]

[[Image:KE70 Wiring Diagram - Lamp Circuit Schematic.jpg]]

This is a diagram of how best I can describe the current flow when they are on low and then high beams, Probably fucked it up because I'm so tired.. Will look back into this when I get back from holidays in a weeks time..

[[Image:Headlights Schematic Current Flow.JPG]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Upgrades Upgrades]

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Upgrades:KE70 K50 gearbox into 3K powered KE20

2008-09-07T08:54:14Z

MedicineMan:

Putting a KE70 5 speed K-50 Gearbox in a KE20 (in the place of a
4spd)

After finding that 4 gears are just not enough for me and then just happening to find a good deal on a 5 speed gearbox that I couldn't pass up I went ahead with the conversion.

At first glance you would think that it would be a 2 hour job. Well its a tad more. We worked for 3 hrs to get the old gearbox off (2 of us and mind you the gearbox hadn't been taken off for nye on 30 years ORIGINAL CLUTCH!!) and then found that a bearing we needed had exploded/died and wasn't easy to source (N.B. 2007 these are now easy to find!). Grimwolge came to my rescue with exactly the bearing I needed. If you're using the 3K I would suggest you use a flywheel off a KE70 4K. It will give you a wide range of easily accessible clutch upgrade options and they're lighter! I am unsure as to weather the 3K flywheel and clutch would work as I never tried. Update: I since changed back to the K40 because the K50 blew its seals out and I couldn't find a replacement. The 3K K40 fits fine with the 4K clutch and flywheel! You could reasonably assume that the K50 should fit the standard 3K flywheel and clutch.

<center>[[Image:Sidebyside.jpg]]

The old on the left new on the right (Bottom to Bottom). Note the shifter position difference!

</center>

The shifter difference isn't a huge problem. There is a viewing plate that can be hack sawed out back a fair way. I actually think that the shifter in the further back position and a shorter shifter is actually a big improvement. Now I don't have to reach to change gears! When I can find an aluminum plate I'll drill it over the old shifter position, screw it into place and then use silastic to seal it. Because the cross member is there, there shouldn't be any stress put on that part of the car.

<center>
[[Image:Crossmember.jpg]]
</center>

Several things need to be modified to fit the new gearbox. The bolt holes in the cross member need to be redrilled further apart. You may want to try a KE70 cross member as a better option however I don't know if it is the same width. Worth a try.

<center>[[Image:drillcrossmember.jpg]]
</center>

<center>[[Image:Boxessidebyside.jpg]]</center>

One of the bigger problems is bolts. The left hand side base bolt needs to be longer and a pin below and further above the starter motor (^^red circles^^) exists on the KE70 gearbox but not the 3K motor. This may just be a 3K-4K thing. Also I didn't notice until we had the gearbox on the engine ready for bolting up that one of the bolts on the right hand side (when looking at the box from the back) doesn't quite match up. Its OK though as there are enough of the other bolts to hold it there. If you did the 4K conversion
then there wouldn't be any bolt problems! (next on my list)

<center>[[Image:wiring.jpg]]
</center>

Reversing lights are significantly different. Wiring can be done however you like. We just used 2 crimp terminal connectors and plugged them in (making sure they didn't make contact). Of course you could go and get the proper connector for this...but Im just lazy! One of the green connectors (I think the top one) is the neutral light but Im not exactly sure what the other one is. We were thinking it may be the 5th gear light...but Im not sure why you'd bother with that!

<center>[[Image:cuttinghole.jpg]]

Take to it with the hacksaw....then....

[[Image:anglegrindbiarch.jpg]]

ANGLE GRIND THAT BIARCH!
</center>

We found that the viewing plate has to be cut all the way back...and then to do a good job you have to widen the hole a bit more towards the rear. This is because if you just cut the viewing plate out then when you start the car, reverse etc the gearbox rotates slightly and knocks against the side of the hole. You could of course just chuck a heap of rubber around the rear of the shifter hole and stop it that way.

I'd Like to take this opportunity to thank my father. Didn't really agree with me doing this conversion but he was happy to help me anyway. THANKS DAD :) And as you can see its his arm/leg/whatever in most of the photos...so he did all the hard stuff. Id also like to thank Grimwolge for letting me take this gearbox away and put it in, try it out and didn't ask for a cent till I was happy with it!

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''Article by Irokin (2003)'' - contact him at irokin.HATES.SPAM@rollaclub.com (remove hates spam of course).

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Upgrades:KE70 cable to hydraulic clutch

2008-09-07T08:53:51Z

MedicineMan:

== KE70 Cable to Hydraulic Clutch ==

As the KE70 Corolla came with a cable clutch setup from factory, If you wish to run a gearbox that requires a Hydraulic Clutch you need to convert the clutch setup. (This is usually done for a 4K to 4AGE conversion). The easiest way is by fitting the pedal box and clutch setup from an AE71 corolla as it is a direct swap (Just requires you to drill the hole in the firewall to fit the clutch master cylinder). Don't be fooled that it is a quick swap as you have to pull half the dash apart to swap the pedal box.

Note: An AE86 pedal box can be modified to fit too, But there is more mucking around involved..

Few suggestions from my experience from this swap,

(a) Cut out the holes before you paint the engine bay or you will have to make a plate out of sheetmetal to cover where the paint bubbles from the heat like had to do.

(b) Go out and buy a good metal hole saw the right size to cut out the hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder.

(c) It helps if you can get a template of the location of the holes from the AE71 donar car so that when it comes to marking the holes you know their exact position.

(d) You can remove the cable clutch bell all-together or just cut out a piece in the side so the clutch master reservoir clears it.

(e) Don't bother with the metal hydraulic line between the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave and just get a one piece hydraulic line fabricated to suit.

(f) Have a Die Grinder or Dremel handy in case you need to elongate the holes if your positioning is a tad off.

[[Image:Sv109915.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv109919.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv109950.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv109961.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv109995.jpg]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Upgrades:Corona Power Mirrors into late KE70/AE71

2008-09-07T08:53:24Z

MedicineMan:

== Swapping Corona Avante power mirrors into late KE70 / AE71 mirrors ==

Thanks to Teddy we have found out that the Corona Avante power mirrors are almost the same as a KE70. They share the same dimension mirror, Though the base is slightly different (Different body lines). In this guide I will explain how we converted the standard KE70 mirrors to house the Corona power mirrors. (Corona Avante mirror base on the left, Late KE70/AE71 mirror base on the right).

[[Image:Sv106483.jpg]]

With the Corona mirror base, you can see it does not follow the door line at the bottom. I also noticed only one of the screws lines up with the holes on the back.

[[Image:Sv106470.jpg]]

The AE71/KE70 base actually follows the line of the door, You have to modify it to fit the clip in that the spring connects to.

[[Image:Sv106471.jpg]]

''You will need'',

Late KE70 / AE71 mirrors

Corona Avante Mirrors

Corona Avante Mirror switch with wiring plug

Corona Power Mirror Wiring Diagram

Dremel and a Cordless drill

Small pin punch and vice grips

This is the Corona Avante Power Mirror Switch.

[[Image:Sv106482.jpg]]

This is the Wiring Diagram for the power mirrors.

[[Image:Corona Power Mirror Wiring Diagram.jpg]]

Red/Green - 12V Fused Power (Connect to Ignition Switched Power)

White/Black - Earth to Chassi of vehicle

Light Green/Red - Mirror Common Power (Connects to brown on both mirrors)

Brown/Yellow - Left Hand Mirror, Up and Down

Brown/Black - Left Hand Mirror, Left and Right

Light Green/Black - Right Hand Mirror - Up and Down

Light Green - Right Hand Mirror, Left and Right

Firstly you have to disassemble both mirrors...

Start with the KE70/AE71 Mirrors first as you only require the base. Remove the mirror then unscrew the mirror housing from the base. Next with your pin punch remove the mirror arm from the base and push it out of the housing.

Next remove the mirror from the Corona mirror housing and unscrew the electric motor. Remove the plate from under the motor next then you can remove the mirror arm from the base. Then you can use your pin punch to remove the arm from the base of the housing.

Now you have to modify the base so that you can fit the clip in that the spring connects to.

This is the Corona mirror base, You need to remove the clip that the spring connects to (It just pops out the back once you disconnect the spring).

[[Image:Sv106486.jpg]]

This is the KE70/AE71 mirror base, It uses a different piece to hold the spring in so you need to make way for the clip from the corona base.

[[Image:Sv106487.jpg]]

Firstly I began by using the dremel to shave the top off the area where the clip from the corona base is going to go.

[[Image:Sv106488.jpg]]

Next I got a small dremel routing bit and shaved out an area on either side of the hole big enough to accept the clip.

[[Image:Sv106489.jpg]]

Now you can drill 2 holes in the base to let your wiring through and into the door.

[[Image:Sv106477.jpg]]

Once this is complete you can start putting it all back together. I found it easiest to connect the spring to the base and use a small set of vice grips to pull the spring back over the mirror arm. Refit the mirror housing and then the base for the electric motor. Then you just have to pop the mirror back on.

Next you have to wire in the switch and wire it to the mirrors. If you follow the wiring diagram you should now have working power mirrors in your KE70/AE71 :)

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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History:Racing

2008-09-07T08:49:12Z

MedicineMan:

Coolest Ke70 Rally Car & Team: [http://www.scottmotorsportz.com/ ScottMotorSportz]

Tech:Engine/K Series/7K-E/Terminal Voltages And Diagnostic Codes

2008-09-07T08:45:58Z

MedicineMan:

[[Image:7k-ecu1.JPG]]

[[Image:7k-ecu2.JPG]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/7K-E/Pinouts

2008-09-07T08:45:30Z

MedicineMan:

ECU Pinouts

Toyota Part Number: 89660-28820

Nippon Denso Part Number: 211000-6870

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/7K-E/Intake Manifold

2008-09-07T08:45:00Z

MedicineMan:

The 7K-E Intake manifold from a KR42 Hiace is a good upgrade for a 4K/5K motor if you want to go the force induction route (Due to 4K-E intake manifold being very restrictive even if you do find one).

[[Image:Toyota 7ke1.jpg]]

[[Image:Toyota 7ke2.jpg]]

[[Image:Toyota 7ke3.jpg]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/5K-C/5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion

2008-09-07T08:44:29Z

MedicineMan:

== 5K Hydraulic To Solid Lifter Conversion ==

Worried that your 5K hydraulic lifters won't be any good at high RPM? Many people consider this to be the biggest letdown of the 5K-C engine - other's say that the lifters are fine to 8000+ RPM. It is pretty much up to you, but many people still advise doing this conversion. (Here we will discuss how to convert Hydraulic Lifters back to Solid Lifters in a 5K-C).

'''''Easiest Solution;'''''

Well, Luckily for you, We have some very kind people on rollaclub who decided to share some little-known information that the 5K-C actually did come from factory in one vehicle with factory solid lifters! This means that if you can find this part, You won't have to mess around - just '''"bolt it on"''' It was fitted to a Toyota KM36RV-JR Liteace Van with a Toyota Part Number of ''13751-61020-'' this part number cross references to a 3F Landcruiser, So if you can find a 3F Landcruiser engine you'll have one and a half sets.

This part is listed on the Toyota EPC (Electronic Parts Catalogue). Here is a screenshot of the EPC page for the 5K Solid Lifter :

[[Image:5ksolids.jpg]]

''Many thanks go to Chris and Tony Scott for their research and extensive knowledge that they contributed to finding this part number''

'''''Other Solutions;'''''

''Xany's KE55 5K Solid Lifters;''

Ok basically the way we did it was trial and error, As I cant remember the actual measurements of the 5K hydro lifter. Find yourself some calipers and if you have a spare 5K lifter out of the block, measure the length and diameter of the lifter. Once you have that you can bascically just cross reference the measurements with a chev lifter of the same. Most of the chev lifters we found were solids. Once you have found the lifter that matches you'll then need to try and find some pushrods to fit. As I used a 3K head the pushrods had to be changed from ball - ball ends to ball and cup. I'd heard somewhere that A12 Datsun pushrods are a one peice ball and cup pushrod. So I found some of them and they actually did fit nicely....The only other thing I changed was the rocker gear as the 5K item isnt adjustable because of the hydraulic lifters. I changed to the 4K rocker gear, just remember though that there is 2 different 4K rocker gears, one with long posts and one with short.

* Looking for articles by anyone who has done it the hard way...

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''Article by Grimwolge, TRD, TRD_KE70 & Xany''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/4K-E/Pinouts

2008-09-07T08:43:58Z

MedicineMan:

ECU Pinouts

KP60/61 Starlet - (AFM / Yellow Plugs / 18Pin, 12Pin)

Toyota Part Number: 89561-10010

Nippon Denso Part Number: 079700-0641

[[Image:89561-10010.JPG]]

'''18 Pin Plug (Wire Colours)'''

E2 - Brown

VS - Yellow/Blue

VC - Blue/Red

BATT - Black/Red

THA - Yellow

B/K - Green/Yellow

STA - Black/White

A/C - Black/Blue

OX - White (Thin)

IG - Black

E3 - Grey (Thick)

W - Green/Black

+B - Yellow/Red

'''12 Pin Plug (Wire Colours)'''

THW - Green

IDL - Dark Blue

VF - Grey

T - Green/Yellow

<nowiki>#10</nowiki> - White (Thick)

E01 - White/Black (Thick)

E1 - White/Black (Thick)

TL - Red

PSW - Black

<nowiki>#20</nowiki> - Yellow (Thick)

E02 - White/Black (Thick)

[[Image:Sv107259 resized.jpg]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/4K-E/Injectors

2008-09-07T08:43:08Z

MedicineMan:

Fuel delivery is taken care of by some VERY tiny Nippon Denso 145cc "green top" Injectors which are top feed and low impedance 2.4 ohm. It is also worth noting that at stock fuel rail pressure and 80% duty cycle the standard 145cc 4K-E injectors would only support 92.8 horsepower at the flywheel. After that you should either try to raise fuel rail pressure or upgrade to a similar top-feed low impedance injector to suit your desired power level.

[[Image:Dscn7424 resized.jpg]]

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''Article by Nick / Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/4K-C/4K-C Emission System Diagram

2008-09-07T08:42:44Z

MedicineMan:

== 4K-C Emission System Diagram ==

[[Image:Spaghettios.jpg]]

[[Image:Vacuum.jpg]]

In case you are wondering what all the different pieces of the 4K-C emission system are, here is a more detailed description.

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/4kstall

2008-09-07T08:39:14Z

MedicineMan:

== Why does my 4K Stall ==

There are many reasons why your engine may stall. Here are some of them (work in progress)

* '''Reason #1 : Fuel Solenoid Wire Disconnected'''

rjenman posted this on the forums with these pictures

''Ok so your 4K-C cuts out at idle and you are about to mess around with the carb. First make sure this is plugged in:''

[[Image:Noidle1.jpeg]]

''Oh wtf a loose plug.''

[[Image:Noidle2.jpeg]]

''Oh there we go. Car now idles perfectly.''
''Hope this saves someone some trouble''

- '''Testing if your solenoid is working''' - Even if you have power running to it, your fuel solenoid may not be working. Medicine_Man has a suggestion for how to test this :

''Simple way to know if its working, turn your ignition on and touch it together so it completes the circuit, you should hear a clicking sound, then you know its all good''

- '''Felix notes :'''

''i've had hassles with these stupid things before. ''

''on some ke10 and ke20 carbs there is a blanking bolt. you just put it in your later carb allowing you to do away with the solenoid. ''

''if you remove the solenoid: in hot weather, or if you have overadvanced timing, or a lean mixture......you could experience runon or dieselling when you turn your car off. ''

- '''Super Jamie notes :'''

''i always grind the end off my carb solenoids for this exact reason''

''if you pick up an M8 Fine bolt (found everywhere on nissans), you can make your own blanking plug, just be sure to use the original copper washer gasket ''

See also:

* http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=3688 (4K-C Stalls Forum Discussion)

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''Article by rjenman / Grimwolge / Medicine_Man / Felix / Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K-Series/TRD Uprite Kit

2008-09-07T08:38:24Z

MedicineMan:

Before you even ask where you can buy one just realize they are as rare as rocking horse shit to find. I only know of 2 in existance, Though I have seen bits pop up from time to time on yahoo auctions japan. http://auctions.yahoo.co.jp

One in Australia - The Scott Motorsportz 5K KE70 http://www.scottmotorsportz.com ,

One in New Zealand - Sheldon (blown 5k) off club k http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/

''The Kit Consisted of:''

* Engine Mounts
* Intake/Exhaust Manifold Plate
* Intake Manifold
* Gearbox Bellhousing

Images..

[[Image:Trd upright engine mounts.jpg]]

[[Image:Trd uprite intake exhaust plate.jpg]]

[[Image:TRDuprightintakemanifold.jpg]]

[[Image:Trduprite5Kmotor.jpg]]

It also appears that the intake manifolds came in two different sizes.

[[Image:0026.jpg]]

See also:

* http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=10605 (Discussion On Uprighting K Engines On Forum).

* http://t-rex.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/tosco.html (Tosco Tuning Manual).

* http://homepage2.nifty.com/hiro-cy/kptrd.htm (KP61 TRD Parts).

* http://homepage2.nifty.com/hiro-cy/ (Japanese Early Toyota Website).

* http://www.kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4165 (Uprighting discussion on kp61.net).

* http://www.kp61.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3061 (3K/4K Stage III discussion on kp61.net).

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Torque Settings

2008-09-07T08:37:33Z

MedicineMan:

=3K Engine Torque Specs=

Main bearing bolts: 48 lb/ft

Conrod nuts: 38 lb/ft

Cam sproket bolt: 22 lb/ft

Fly wheel bolts: 48 lb/ft

Clutch bolts: 9 lb/ft

Head bolts: per gasket recommendation.

They're the only ones I'd really worry about. All the rest are just "tight".

(Submitted by Redwarf)

Discussion Thread Reference
http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=6581

=4K Engine Torque Specs=

=5K Engine Torque Specs=

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''Article by Redwarf / Grimwolge''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Sump

2008-09-07T08:36:57Z

MedicineMan:

== Sump ==

There are two different sump bolt patterns for these motors. One is on 1K and 3K engines (and some 4K I believe), the other is on most 4K and onwards motors.

There are also different designs, some have ribbing, some don't. Some have 17mm plug bolts, some 19mm, some 21mm. I have seen 3K sumps which curve down about an inch further forward than other 3K sumps, this may have something to do with different oil pickup designs (there are at least two of them), or with engine crossmember position between KE1x/2x and KE3x cars.

If you are getting a 5K or 7K out of a van, you may need a 4K Corolla sump, or you'll have crossmember clearance problems. Some people have reported that stock 5K sumps fit fine into Corollas.

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Oil Pump

2008-09-07T08:36:42Z

MedicineMan:

== Oil Pump ==

There are several different oil pumps, the difference seems to be in the pickup pipes, some have two and some have one. I'm not really sure which is better.

=== Oil Pressure ===

Stock oil pressure usually sits around 20psi at idle, going up to 60psi during operation. Increasing the oil pressure is good for high-rpm reliability, as it keeps the bearing surfaces lubricated better. It places a small drag on the motor, probably a fraction of a horsepower, more than worth it for engine longevity.

To increase the oil pressure, remove the split pin on the oil pump relief and insert a shim (like a washer) into the sprung cup that comes out, usually something of thickness ~3mm will do it. This also gets your oil pressure up more quickly at idle, important because most of the wear on an engine happens when it's warming up.

=== Higher Volume ===

People have talked about rebuilding the guts from a T motor or R motor pump inside a K pump housing to increase oil flow volume, but nobody's done it yet. Apparently T motor pumps have the same dimension insides as a K pump, so there would be no benefit anyway.

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Distrib

2008-09-07T08:36:27Z

MedicineMan:

My car was constantly coughing while driving, not idling properly, bogging down when taking off and getting poor fuel economy, so I changed the points in the car which fixed the problem.

I will be collecting part numbers as I go along, so here is the first part number, which will be for a set of Bosch Contact Points for the Nippon-Denso Distributor.

If anyone can cross-reference these with different manufacturer's e.g. Champion etc, that would be much appreciated.

'''Nippon-Denso Contact Points'''

'''Make:''' Bosch
'''Part No.''' GD207

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''Article by AE35''

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Tech:Engine/Mounts

2008-09-07T08:36:01Z

MedicineMan:

== Mounts ==

There are 3 different types of engine mounts, based on the different chassis

KE1x and 2x are the same

KE3x and 5x are the same

KE70 is on its own

KE70 manifold side engine mounts come with a heat shield to protect the vulcanised rubber from the heat of the exhaust manifold. I have seen a KE10 and KE20 engine mount, each of them had boltholes for this heat shield also. Perhaps all manifold side mounts are the same?

If you're looking to get your engine lower for improved roll center, look at Ford Cortina and Escort engine mounts, these are essentially a rubber disc with a bolt thread coming out each side, you could mount this on a Corolla engine bracket if the rubber was thinner. In KE2x cars, check you're not going to foul the engine on the swaybar by lowering it (there's less than finger clearance stock).

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/K

2008-09-07T08:34:08Z

MedicineMan:

'''Following some discussion on the messageboard, I decided to put some of the KE1x series 1080cc "K" Engine information up here... Link to the discussion can be found [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=3549 here]'''

''If it is a true K-B motor then it already has 10 to 1 CR. The K-B head on a 3K motor should give 10.7.''

''So how do you tell if it is a true K-B - check the inlet manifold face on the head to verify if there is a water hole to the inlet manifold, should be below no 4 inlet port.
Look after the gasket as I imagine they might be hard to get these days.''

''The other differences that you might explore - the lighter K-B flywheel and the K-B camshaft with the extra 10 degrees duration, an 18/58 vs 16/50.''

Reference:

* http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/engine.html

* http://t-rex.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/

* http://www.geocities.com/jonnyr_1973/

* http://au.geocities.com/ke1x/

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''Article by SprintaSL / Grimwolge''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/How To Fix K Motor Oil Leaks (Problems And Cures)

2008-09-07T08:33:53Z

MedicineMan:

'''The following is some discussion from the forums about places that K series engines are inclined to leak from. There is also discussion for quick-fixes and other types of cure for this annoying issue.'''

The Discussion in question can be [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=3562 viewed here on the forums]

''All K series engines leak oil, but with close attention to detail, they can all be eliminated. Luckily they are all on the distributor side of the engine, which is easy to get at.

''First rule is to keep engine clean, so oil leaks are obvious as soon as they occur. SuperCheap $ 1.78 degreaser & hose !''

''The rocker cover is easy to fix. The older, the rocker cover gaskets get, the harder they get; and hard gaskets don't seal well. Get a new gasket. Clean surface of head where gasket contacts head scrupulously. Final wipe with metho & dry. Put a fine bead of silicon gasket sealant right around the gasket in the centre between those two tiny little "flaps" on the gasket. Tighten down rocket cover nuts tightly. Problem solved, guaranteed''

''Those pesky spark plug aluminum tubes are the greatest culprits. They are horribly expensive. Someone on RollaClub, recently posted they bought a set of four (4) and it cost
$ 80.00. I've paid less for whole engines than that !
You can get more life out of them by squaring back up the top flange, and opening up the spark plug hole a little with a tapered reamer (or large file handle end) so that they do not bind, & rotate when tightening up the spark plug. Always fit new rubber "O" rings and put some sealant around "O" ring, as suggested elsewhere in this thread.''

''The mechanical fuel pump is always an annoying source of oil leaks. The pump has a little well inside at the bottom, and a drain hole in case the diaphragm perforates and leaks petrol. That's so it does not build up, & flow into sump. Trouble is, as I see it, the oil gets splashed / blown onto the lever & runs down into the bottom of the pump and comes out the drain hole designed for fuel. Others might have other ideas as to the reason. If sump becomes pressurised, then any outside opening in the engine to ambient, is going to be an easy path for oil to the outside world.''

''The other factor in all this, is the keep the pressure in the sump area of the engine down by making sure the breather valves etc. are always clean & working. Remember, both top & bottom of pistons act as pumps, An oil catch can, & breather can help here if necessary. Ever seen how much oil gets pumped out of a race engine into those catch cans. Rob, could probably throw some more light on this. Not sure whether oil catch cans breathing to atmosphere are legal on a street car. Most PCV valves breath back to the inlet manifold.''

''Anyway, attention to detail in this area, can eliminate oil leaks in K series engines.''

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''Article by Banjo''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/How to build a tough K motor

2008-09-07T08:33:28Z

MedicineMan:

'''How to build a tough K motor'''

by Super Jamie <jamie@superjamie.net>

'''In One Paragraph'''

'''Don't spend heaps of money, it's just a crappy old K motor. Balance everything if you can afford it. Use a 20-60 cam in a 3K, 25-65 in a 4K, 4K is better. Run 0.400" valvelift, fit heavy duty springs if you don't want the stock ones to wear out in a couple of years, use 4K valve gear. Shim the oil pump spring 3mm for more oil pressure. Run between stock and 10:1 compression. Get the distributor recurved. Fit extractors and an exhaust larger than 1.5" but not larger than 2". Fit a new timing chain and tensioner. Put something better than the stock carby on, but not too big. Don't rev it past 8 grand.'''

= Introduction =

These are my opinions, observations and conclusions on how to build a tough K motor. Some people might tell you I'm full of crap, some people might agree wholeheartedly. If you think you can do better, and you want to prove me wrong with proof of back-to-back comparisons, then please by all means do, everyone likes to learn something new or how to do something better.

All prices discussed are in Australian dollars, all laws spoken of refer to Australian Design Rules. If you're overseas, check with your local registration/law guys before doing anything.

By no means do you have to do everything listed on this page. Your engine will "work" with just some things, in that it will motivate the car forward, and be better than stock. It might not be at its' total full potential, but cheap fun is what this guide is all about. Besides, it's kindof unsatisfying to be at the point where you can't make any more power, trust me. You do '''need''' to do some things, and I will tell you which as I progress.

= Reasons to use a K motor =

'''DO''' use a K motor if you are on a budget. These can be very cheap motors to modify for noticeable reward, and also to replace if you stuff up and kill it. That's the best thing about them, parts are cheap, and spare engines and parts can commonly be had for very little or free. However like anything, they can be expensive as well, if you let them. Keep it in perspective.

'''DO''' use a K motor if you can't be bothered engineering your car. Want 100hp for as cheap as possible? Don't want to spend the money on upgrading the brakes, wheels and tyres? Want to just bolt something in and do burnouts? Technically, there's a clause in the ADRs that says if you sufficiently increase the power of an engine to warrant it, you need to upgrade other relevant safety systems, but that doesn't stop your car passing rego. This was one motivation for me.

'''DO''' use a K motor for something different. At the time I did my motor, it seemed everyone was doing a 4age transplant, or rattling off numbers numbers letters of all these high powered engines which they see in car magazines and will never buy. Nobody remembered the poor old stock K engine. It's also pretty cool to have a noisy lumpy sounding engine, and you can really impress people when you tell them a naturally aspirated 1300cc did THAT!

'''DO''' use a K motor if you just want something that bolts in. I can't weld custom engine mounts either, so I went with the easy solution. I also couldn't be arsed converting my car to an efi fuel system, wiring in a computer and all that jazz. I also like the self-tuneability of carbs and a distributor.

'''DON'T''' use a K motor if you have plenty of money to spend. If you want the best engine for your corolla and you'll spend more than a grand on it, forget a K motor. Drop in a 4age or some other efi thing, possibly even force inducted if you want to, and you can drive it without crashing it. Take it from someone who's built a $2000 4K, I could have got the same thing (minus the lumpy idle) by buying a $850 4AGE, with alot of potential for more power as well.

'''DON'T''' use a K motor if you want to beat things on the street. About the best you'll manage is flogging crappy old Lasers and Magnas, and a stock Commodore up till about 100km/h. All your mates probably have really fast cars, and if you want one too, be prepared to either spend alot of money on your corolla, or just buy a car that's fast in the first place. Budget modified Corollas are quick, not fast.

'''DON'T''' use a K motor if you want to "drift". If you think you have the "mad skillz" like Fujiwara Takumi, or you are building a "drift pig" corolla because you're a P-plater driving professional, then forget a K motor. The best power you'll reliably get out of one cheaply is less than a bigport 4AGE makes, and nobody drifts with them.

= Starting Point =

== Block ==

Your main choices are usually either a 3K, 4K or 5K. The 3K is easy because it might be in the car now, but really they're too small to make much power, because of the different stroke. About the best you can do is have a little torquey 1200 which peaks at 6500rpm, or a revvy little engine which makes nothing down low. The extra couple of hundred dollars a 4K wrecker motor costs (and really, if you hang around Corolla people long enough you'll pick one up very cheap or free) is money well spent. However, if you do modify a 3K, about the only thing that matters is the camshaft selection, which I will cover later.

The increased stroke of a 4K and the fact that it's a very in-square motor (having 75*73 bore*stroke) makes it ideal for shifting a fairly decent amount of air. A 5K can basically be treated like an oversized 4K, which is handy because extra torque is also very nice and helps make that little bit more top end. However, 5Ks are still quite expensive ($550) from wreckers, and still a little hard to find second hand for a decent price (under $300). If you can get one, go for it, if not, a 4K is almost as good for a cheap thrash motor.

Apparently the design of the blocks suffer from harmonics above 8000rpm and crack with stunning predictability. My 4K has hit 8500rpm a fair few times and it's all good every now and then, but don't hold it there or rev it that hard every day. There are also two different types of 4K block, one has three very noticeable ribs below the manifold side welsch plugs, just like a 3K if you can have a look at one. The other has small ribs and a large flat area. The unribbed block is far weaker, if you have one of them, scrap it.

3K and 4K engines usually have flat pistons, there are some rare engines, the 4K-E and 4K-U which have dished pistons and a flatter head, with longer reach spark plugs. Because of the less valve and spark shrouding a design like this offers, these are great motors for good quality combustion. However, replacement pistons for them would be expensive, Toyota probably being the only place that would sell them, if they still do.

I haven't really even given much thought to 7K engines, they're still very expensive to buy and I don't think a 40 yearold engine design, made for a van, with a massive 87.5mm stroke, is going to be very happy revving over 6000rpm for a long time.

== Head ==

People go on and on about how good 3K bigport heads are. Whatever. A bigport is also well over 30 years old, and probably has a fair bit of corrosion around the water jackets, it might even have developed a crack, will strip at least one manifold or rocker thread, and probably has a few helicoils in it. They also have crappy valve retainers and stem seals, which you need to change to later 4K gear when you make power.

With the amount of money you'll spend having an old late 1960s 3K head reconditioned to a working state, you could have taken a 20 yearold 4K-C head which works perfectly fine, is less prone to cracking, and had a port job done on it which is better than a bigport casting. Don't waste your time searching high and low for the elusive mystical 3K bigport, I have two of them and take it from me, they're not that bloody good.

== Forced Induction ==

This guide is mainly about building a naturally aspirated motor. Obviously all the reliability things would apply even moreso on a forced engine, though all my cam recommendations are probably too big. Some general rules for forced induction on K motors are: don't go too big, and don't run lots of boost. A stock K motor can handle 6psi quite happily, at 8psi their life gets reduced noticeably, and they go bang pretty often at 10psi.

A T28 is way too big, a T25 is probably good for a 5K (cheaply had from CA18DET Silvias), if you had one of the smaller engines, you'd probably be best to go for a T2 (cheaply had from N12 Exas and ET Pulsars). I don't see any reason to put the turbo on the other side of the engine on a J-pipe, there's enough room between the block and the inner guard with clever manifold design. You'd have to move the alternator to the other side but that's just a bracket or two. As far as superchargers go, an SC12 from a 4AGZE would probably be ideal. You could use modified aircon brackets and an aircon crank pulley, or modify a 4AGZE crank pulley to suit the K motor.

You'll need to work out some sort of fuel supply. I'd use a drawthru SU or sidedraft, but that's just me. Considering the small amount of boost you can run, an intercooler would probably be pretty pointless. You shouldn't use intercoolers with drawthru carbs either, it makes the front of your car like a massive petrol bomb waiting to go off.

= Bottom End Mods =

== Block Prep ==

These are pretty well put together little engines. 5 bolt mains and rod bolts as big as a 350 chev. While you've got the thing apart, change all the welsch plugs and take the studs out of the timing cover and rear main carrier and use bolts, it makes servicing the engine (if you ever need to change the timing chain, for instance) so much easier. Check the bearings if you like, but if the engine was working before and hasn't done a huge amount of mileage, you should be right to just slap it back together with a new bearing and seal kit. But if it needs new stuff, it needs new stuff. Running bearings one size over isn't that bad, but two sizes and I'd scrap the crank and find another one.

== Balancing ==

One thing I will suggest, if you're going to rev an engine high (8000rpm+), then get the internals balanced. Not only will it prevent the engine from fighting against its' own inertial mass, hence making more power and having less wear, it will also transfer less vibration to the rest of the drivetrain, so the weak little K gearbox will last longer, especially at high speed. Get anything that moves balanced - crank, pulley, flywheel, rods and pistons. They don't need to be balanced together. A balanced component has equal rotating mass on it's own, as well as with other components. Balancing should set you back between $160 and $250.

== Pistons ==

One good thing about 3Ks is that they have Japanese Toyota pistons in them. Aussie-assembled 4K motors have these crappy aftermarket Repco pistons, which ''will'' crack. You can tell by looking up the skirt of the piston, one side will always have the TEP logo, the other side will have REPCO embossed in it further up on Aussie pistons. If you want aftermarket stuff, standard ACL replacements are just fine, they're actually far better quality metal than the stock pistons ever were. Retail on my set of 060 3K/4K pistons was about $390, but I paid cost which was $160, so you've got a fair bit to bargain for discount if you buy new stuff.

Nobody makes forgies specifically for a K motor, but there ARE motorbike pistons that fit, but you'll have to look all the specs up you need in the freely available ACL catalog, then trawl a bike piston catalog till you find a match. Serco, the Australian Wiseco distributor, offered to have me custom billet slugs made up for the bargain price of US$2000. No thanks.

There are also TOSCO (1960s TRD) 3K/4K pistons available, super duper rare and impossible to find, which are oversize up to 0.160". You might hear Bill Sherwood talk about the set he's got. Apart from the fact you'll have little bore wall left and will probably crack the block the first time you rev it hard, these are full race pistons with one compression ring, one oil ring and no thrust skirts, so they're near useless in a street motor which you want to last more than the run-in period. Don't bother.

== Lightened Flywheel ==

Of all the things you can do to a motor besides air supply and camshaft, this probably changes its' characteristics the most. I had my stock 4K flywheel machined down to 7kg (I have no idea what they are stock) and I like the way the engine builds revs quickly. People say you lose torque, like the ability to climb hills, with a lightened flywheel. But the engine also has less mass to spin, so you transmit more power to the wheels. You can make a K motor pretty torquey anyway, I say it's worth it. Doing this will also make your idle more lumpy. Machining of my flywheel cost me $80.

Companies will also make you a custom alloy flywheel, you supply them a stock one, and they make an alloy center with a clutch face, and press the stock ring gear onto it from your flywheel. These things can get down to 4kg, and you'd probably need a fairly high idle (1200rpm+). Expect about $600, though we got down to $400 with a 5 or more group buy. Jun make two billet alloy flywheels for 4K motors, one is 3.7kg, one is 3.4kg. They're $990 and $1100 respectively through Speedworks Auto in Perth.

== Camshaft ==

This is possibly the most important choice of parts to make. You modify the cam by having it ground, the diameter of the base circle is reduced to increase lift at the lobe. The only thing which really affects the cam profile you choose is the stroke of the crank. A cam grind plus lifter facing (so the lifters wear evenly with the new lobes) should cost about $130.

The stock cam profile is 16-50 (246 degrees adv dur), and Sprinter (3K-B) cams are 18-58 (256 degrees adv dur). The stock cam runs 0.338" inlet valve lift, and 0.356" exhaust valve lift. I can't find anything to say a Sprinter cam has more lift. Ideally you should be running at least 0.400" lift (the limit of stock springs), I've seen cams which run up to 0.432" lift without having to counterbore the springs into the head so they don't bind.

As I'll mention later, if you change to a cam any bigger than about 260 degrees advertised duration, you're going to need extractors and an exhaust, as the extra air the engine is moving is too much for the stock exhaust manifold, and you get inlet reversion, where the air-fuel fixture gets pulsed back and comes out the throat of the carby in a fine mist.

=== 3K ===

Because the 3K is so oversquare (bore is larger than stroke), there's a limit to the amount of power it can make and still be driveable down low. As I've already said, a 3K is always going to be a compromise of top end or bottom end, when compared to the potential of the larger stroke 4K crank.

Personally, I think the best cam for a street driven 3K is a Tighe 112 (20-60, 260 degrees adv dur), it gives not too much loss of torque down low, and peak power at 6500rpm, just above stock and great for unbalanced bottom ends and stock valve springs. The sprinter cam isn't bad, but it's not that good either.

=== 4K ===

This includes 5K as well, because there's no such thing as a 5K crank, they all have 4K stamped on them. A 4K has more stroke than a 3K, and can shift a noticeably larger amount of air. As an engine is basically an air pump which uses fuel to keep moving, the more air you can move, the more power you make. It's a very in-square motor (75*73 bore*stroke) so you can make torque and power at the same time. A 5K is basically a 4K with even more potential to shift air because of the larger 80.5mm bore, and it does make a difference.

Alot of people have favorite cams for the 4K, debate can get pretty intense, so I'll list all the common ones. The 20-60 described above is still fairly good, makes more torque than any other (useful) cam profile I can find, and still peaks at 6500rpm. My favorite is my CE701 (25-65 270 degrees adv dur, 0.398" lift) by Camshaft Engineering in Coorparoo, I think this gives a nice balance of LOTS of torque and good strong top end, with peak power at 7500rpm. My KE25 with this cam does over 200km/h and can drive up most hills in 5th. Tighe Cams do this profile too, the Tighe 113 has 0.400" lift, the Tighe 104 has 0.423" lift.

Rob Dixon's favorite cam is his custom Wade 169x (30-70, 280 degrees adv dur, 0.405" lift). This gives about the same horsepower as the above cam, but loses a bit of torque due to different valve timing. Stewart Ford's favorite cam is his Camtech 609 (33-64 72-32, 277/284 degrees adv dur, 0.435" lift) which is close to the other cams, but from what I can find, there's a small drop in both power and torque compared to the 25-65.

I really think a cam with anything over 270 degrees advertised duration is too big for a 4K crank. Sure, you can use a bigger cam to get them to rev harder and make more power, but you need to run higher compression and rev them past 8000rpm, which places alot more strain on the rods and the block and the motor becomes unreliable. Not to mention the fact you drop so much torque the motor is horrible to drive at midrange rpm, which is where most street driving is done, so it becomes a not-enjoyable car to drive.

== Lifters ==

If you get a cam grind, get the lifters faced too. The lobes of the cam are always ground on an angle and the end of the lifter is a slight dome, so the lifter rotates whilst it is in contact with the cam, this promotes even wear of the cam and lifter together.

Only 5Ks run hydro lifters. All the V8 boys think solid lifters are the way to go for big power. Hydraulic lifters can "pump up" at high rpm, as they're not given time to drain properly, especially if you're running a thick oil. Hydro lifters are quieter, but run zero valve clearance so you can't tune the cooling of the exhaust valves with extra valve clearance, which may be a problem in a high-heat environment (such as a high compression motor). I'd change to solids.

To change to solids in a 5K, you can use Holden red motor lifters and Datsun 1200 pushrods, and you should have just enough adjustment thread in the rockers to be able to set a useable valve clearance.

== Oil Pressure ==

Oil both lubricates and cools the engine, so it's pretty important stuff. An engine which is drawing more air into the cylinder (different carb or cam) or whose components are under more stress (increased compression & rpm) is placing an increased load on the oil to do both of its' tasks. Increasing oil pressure is the way to put reliability back into a modified motor.

Oil pressure in a K motor is increased by shimming the relief spring on the oil pump. Take the split pin end of the relief, and shim the spring about 2-3mm (use washers or a little nut, something metal) into the spring cup (not into the pump) and put it all back together.

Shimming the spring in the oil filter block does nothing but increase the pressure at which the oil filter bypass opens, hence possibly starving the engine of oil under extreme conditions. Early KE10 engines had no oil filter bypass, so everything went through the oil filter. Stewart uses one of these.

It has been said in the past that the limit of efficiency of the stock oil pump is about 60psi, anything over that is just needlessly fatiguing the pump. Mine's about 50psi with a 2mm nut on the relief spring. It's normal for it to fall down to 15-20psi at idle. You'll notice your oil pressure will drop 5-10 psi when your oil is a bit worn out.

== Oil ==

I'm not going to discuss brand preferences here, rather viscosity and composition.

I've found that straight-weight, mineral based oils with no synthetic friction modifiers last longer in K motors. These are not a modern, tightly built engine, and they have alot of piston blowby which pollutes the oil pretty quickly. The rings also seem to float at about 6600rpm (factory redline), so your engine will be extra hard on oil if you're revving it to 8 grand. 30W is good for an old trusty motor, it lets the components move free enough but provides enough lubrication to allow the tappets to be whisper quiet. 50W or 60W if you have a tired old rattly donk that you want to get a couple more years out of.

I've found friction modified oils (eg: 20w50) to be of limited use in a K motor. Sure, they might provide a bit extra protection when cold, but they don't last anywhere NEAR as long as a straight mineral oil when you punish them.

If you have a tightly put together engine, you can run a thinner, synthetic friction modified oil if you like. I run semi-synthetic 15w40 in my engine. I've run straight 30W and a fully synthetic 5w50 as well. I find the 15w50 gives a good balance of lubrication (judging from the noise the tappets make) and less frictional losses. The engine revs noticeably slower with the straight 30W but you can't even hear the tappets. With the 5w50 in the sump, it literally can't wait to jump off the tacho, which is great but I couldn't stand the rattle of the valvetrain.

I don't really think additives do anything to help your engine, and in some cases can harm it if you put in the wrong thing, or mixture of things, so I don't use them.

== Oil Filter ==

Me, I have an expensive engine, so I use a genuine oil filter. I recommend you do the same, even if your motor is stock. These are the only filter which has the non-flowback valve, so your engine makes some effort to retain oil pressure after the flow stops, which is good for cold starts.

As far as aftermarket filters go, my preference is with Ryco. They seem to have good flow and filtration qualities. I'm not a big fan of anything Valvoline, and they're what's commonly on the shelf at Supercheap. Fram filters are big in America, and have started to come out here in Australia as well. From what I've heard, they used to be great back in the 70s but quality has slipped as the company entered the 21st century.

== Gaskets ==

If you've got the engine apart, you're going to need a gasket kit. I like using Permatex 3 non-hardening aviation glue to seal every gasket I use, it makes pulling the thing apart again (if you ever have to) very easy, and you can re-use the gaskets if they're not too old. The only thing I don't use it on is the water pump, I use Hylomar there instead.

Aftermarket gasket kits work fine, the only genuine consumable (besides the oil filter) which I've found is worth buying is the distributor o-ring. When my distributor was leaking I tried several generic o-rings with no success. Luckily, this part only costs a few dollars from Toyota.

== Timing Chain & Tensioner ==

You really should to put a new timing chain and tensioner on any K motor you're modifying. This keeps the valves opening where they should and ensures your motor is running to its full air potential. There is sometimes a single row chain on 4Ks, but you can steal the MUCH better double row timing chain gears off a 3K and they fit in place with no modification. As the chain wears, it usually won't break, it will just stretch and stretch until it rattles against, and eventually wears through, the timing cover.

== Camshaft Gear ==

The cam is aligned on its' gear by a pin on the cam sticking through a hole in the gear. If you compare several cam gears from different engines, you may find they are out a little bit, as the factory machining wasn't too precise. Doug has found some that were out by as much as 7 degrees! If you want to change the gearing of the cam, you need to have some way to change the position of this hole, so the teeth of the cam gear are in a different spot in relation to the camshaft lobes when it's bolted back together. A good way to do this is to have new holes drilled at key points you might want to adjust (say +2, -2, +5 and -5 degrees), then you simply put the camshaft pin in the relevant hole. You can do this yourself if you're handy with a protractor and a drill press, or an engine builder should be able to modify one for you. When this idea came to me, I thought you might only be able to drill a few holes or you'd reduce the strength of the gear too much, however I've seen one on the internet with 7 additional holes. If you're making it yourself, it's probably worth knowing that one tooth on the camgear is 20 degrees.

= Top End Mods =

An engine is an air pump, the more air it moves, the more power you can make. The head is how the air gets inside the engine so there are alot of things which affect the power levels you can make. A full-house bottom end with a stock head is nowhere near its' full potential. A stock bottom end with a worked head will make more power any day (though may have reliability issues depending on what else you've done to the motor).

== Compression ==

I wouldn't suggest running much over 10:1 in a K motor. The head design really isn't the best for promoting good combustion, and detonation sucks once it sets in. I run 10.2:1 in my motor, and it get piston shakes quite badly below 2500rpm, but I think that's more to do with my amateur head porting. One of the guys on toyotastarletracing had a 4K he didn't care about anymore, so for a laugh he shaved the head down to 11:1 and slapped it back on. He said it absolutely FLEW but didn't last very long. If you want to push the limits, work out what dynamic compression you're running and keep it below 8.4.

A good rule is to take the octane number of the fuel you'll be using, and divide it by 10. BP Ultimate has a RON of 98, so 9.8:1 is pretty ideal compression for an engine running on that. Standard unleaded is 91 RON, which is alot less compression. You can usually get away with deviating 0.2 to 0.3 compression points from this rule, if your head porting and fuel supply is up to scratch.

== Head Porting ==

I'll write more on this at a later date, probably in its' own section. Basically, clean up the short radius, and keep it on the same radius point as the outer bowl wall. Taper the valve retainers, teardrop the bowl around them for good flow. Deshroud the valves and valve seats but retain as much quench area as possible. If you have stock-sized valves, leave the inlet port size stock, it's perfect for best airspeed. Anyone who tells you they've taken the inlet ports of their head out nice and big and has stock valves is an idiot. Oversizing the exhaust ports is probably a good idea, to create a kind of vacuum effect to suck more exhaust out of the cylinder, and more intake charge in its' place.

There is also usually a casting ridge just below the spark plugs, and it's a good idea to grind that ridge smooth to promote quicker oil flow back to the sump.

== Valve Stems, Seals & Retainers ==

The valve seals and retainers on a 3K are a bit old and silly. They have an upside down cup on top of the valve, with an o-ring on top, and a quite tall valve stem, the combination of which is supposed to direct enough oil away from the stem to stop the inlet getting oily. The spring retainer sits in another groove below this cup. Unfortunately, if you have an engine with altered vacuum characteristics (ie: a camshaft) then you have the tendency to suck oil into the inlet via the valve stems. The higher stem also stops you from running as much lift as you can with newer stuff.

Later heads, 4K onwards, have a much better system. The stem is shorter and hence allows for more lift, and has a clip-on rubber seal which restricts the amount of oil that lubricates the valve quite well. The retainer is at the very top of the valve. To change over, you need to change the lot - stems, valves, retainers and seals - and re-cut the valve seats to suit the new valves.

== Valve Seats ==

Valve seats made after February 1972 are made of hardened steel and are fine for use with unleaded petrol. Toyota Corporate themselves told me this.

It is beneficial to airflow to have multiple angles on the valve seats. The stock seats are just cut at one angle, so the air deflects off to the sides of the chamber, the sudden change of direction also causes it to lose velocity, which is something you don't want. Getting a three-angle valve job lets the air gradually curve around into the combustion chamber, retaining velocity for better air movement, and putting the fuel around the spark plug where it should be.

You can get as many angles cut into the seats as you have the money for, or time if you're doing it yourself. I've heard of some perfectionists who cut 7 angle valve seats, almost like the seats are round. I think it's alot of work for a diminishing return, 3 angles is fine.

== Valve Springs ==

The most lift you can run with stock valve springs is about 0.400", after that you need heavy duty springs. Whilst stock springs will definitely hit 8000rpm without a problem, they'll de-tension fairly quickly (say within a couple of years?) and you'll need to replace them more often than a set of heavy springs. My springs were $110, compared to $80 for stock springs, I think it's worth the upgrade if you have larger-than-stock lift and revs planned.

What height aftermarket springs bind at depends on the thickness of the coil and how many of them there are. If in doubt, assemble and measure. Rob's head uses heavy Holden 202 red motor springs, but you need to bore the spring seat down more into the head so these don't bind.

The stock spring seat pressure is 70lb (77lb for bigport Sprinter heads). From memory, Stewart's running some springs which fit and are 120lb. Anything between those two numbers should be fine.

== Bigger Valves ==

3K and 4K engines will benefit from larger valves (and the accompanying larger ports that accompany these), and they're definitely THE big restriction point on 5K motors. Realistically, any valve can be used as long as it doesn't shroud too much against the edges of the combustion chamber (hence, running oversize pistons enables you to run bigger valves more usefully than stock bore size does). This is likely to be a very expensive head job ($600+) and is beyond the scope of this article. David Vizard has some good rules for calculating ideal port size based on valve size, buy his books.

== Rockers and Posts ==

Understand that the rocker pivots on an axis, and the valve moves vertically, hence the rocker must "wipe" across the face of the valve stem at some point whilst it moves the valve down. It's better to have this lateral movement at lower lift, as it gives less wear to the valve stem and puts less strain on the whole lot. You accomplish this by lowering the axis upon which the rockers move, which is supported by the rocker posts.

Toyota had it pretty well setup from factory, so a good rule is to have the rocker posts accurately machined down by the amount of valvelift you have added to the engine. Stock lift is about 0.340", so say you're running 0.400" lift, you need to have the rocker posts machined down about 0.060".

There are two types of rocker post, early alloy and later cast iron. The cast ones are better, as the suffer less from thermal expansion (it gets pretty hot in your engine you know) and when the posts expand, they raise the axis upon which the rockers pivot, hence open up the valve clearance more, this is bad.

Changing from bolts to studs and nuts for the rocker posts is also a good idea, make sure you use high tension stuff.

== Valve Clearance ==

Valve clearance is there to allow the valves to cool in between combustion events (spark), and to make sure the valve closes properly and contains the combustion explosion. You need to cool the valves a little bit, the exhaust valve moreso than the inlet, as it's what sees the most heat as spent burnt gases go past it into the exhaust port. Run too little clearance and you'll cause the valve to "weld" a little bit to its' seat every time it closes, and then take seat metal off again when it opens. Do this enough times and you burn out the valve seat and need the head reconditioned. However, by running less clearance, the valve stays open for that little but longer, and you get more air in and out of the motor, and make more power. Run too much clearance and your motor just sounds like a diesel and loses power and tappet rattle annoys you while you're driving, so it's better to err on the side of caution.

The stock valve clearance (0.008" inlet / 0.012" exhaust, warm) is pretty good for any of the cams I've listed above, they're well-sized street cams, not really wild top heavy race cams that require super high compression to work, so don't be afraid to close the valves up a bit from the suggestions of the cam grinder, which will usually say between 0.010" and 0.014". There are a few ways to set your valve clearances:

=== Yellow Book Method ===

This is from the factory 3K/4K/5K engine manual, aka The Yellow Books. It's the quick and lazy method.

Set engine to #1 TDC. Crank pulley timing mark should be on 0, distributor rotor should be pointing towards spark plug 1 or 2. Set tappets (counting from the front) 1, 2, 3 and 5. Rotate engine 360 degrees, crank pulley to 0 again, distributor rotor turned 180 degrees. Set tappets 4, 6, 7 and 8.

=== Nine Method ===

I've never really gotten into doing this, takes too much time and maths for my liking :P Rotate the engine through its' range of movement, as one valve is "on the rock" of its' max lift, subtract the valve number from 9 and that's the tappet you should be setting. For example, if #8 valve is open, set clearance on valve #1. If valve #7 is open, set clearance on #2. And so on.

Stewart uses this method, and rotates the camshaft through its entire base circle and sets the clearance at the highest point. Which is a pretty good idea, as it compensates for the possibility that the base circle has been ground unevenly, and allows you to run the proper valve clearance that you want to run, instead of something that may be a few thou larger in reality.

=== Degreeing In a Cam ===

This gives the most accurate method of setting the cam timing, regardless of what clearance you're running. If doing this, it might pay to check the clearance at the base circle instead it winds up being too big/small for your liking. To degree in a cam, you'll need the specs of your cam, and to print off a degree wheel about the same diameter as the K motor crank pulley, and stick the degrees onto the pulley. Alternatively, you can buy a degree wheel at a speed shop.

A 25-65 cam opens the inlet 25 degrees before top dead center (BTDC), closes the inlet valve 65 degrees after bottom dead center (ABDC), opens the exhaust valve 65 degrees before bottom dead center (BBDC) and closes the exhaust valve 25 degrees after top dead center (ATDC). Start at 0 degrees TDC and rotate the engine through its' range of movement. When you get to the timing when a valve should open or close, based on the position of the piston in relation to TDC or BDC, set the clearance on that valve to 0.001".

== Spark Plugs ==

Stock spark plugs are NGK BP5ES or Denso W16EP. These are what you should use in a stock engine.

I find with my higher compression and what not, my engine gets some weird thermal thing going with stock heat range plugs, and my exhaust tappets would unwind and over double in clearance, in the short driving distance of about 400km. So I've changed to one step colder NGK BP6EY (aka Denso W20EP) and it fixed up.

As an engine gets really old and starts blowing a bit of smoke, you might even find a hotter plug (NGK BP4ES) gives it a bit of oomf back, however do realise that the bottom end is approaching its' wear limit and it's time to start thinking about a refresh or new motor.

I don't really think fitting a $100 set of "platinum" spark plugs or similar is of any benefit on a K motor. Maybe in a very high compression EFI application where air-fuel ratios are fine tuned (such as a 10.3:1 100kw 4AGE where they come stock) but not in a crude little carburetted thing like a 4K. If you try some and they make a huge difference, let me know.

== Head Gasket ==

A standard type head gasket will work fine. If you have oversized pistons, then you need an oversized head gasket to suit. I'm using a graphite head gasket, which doesn't use sealant of any kind. Graphite acts as kind of a lubrication between the two different metals on either side of it (alloy and cast iron) as they expand at different rates because of engine heat. A graphite gasket is a little thicker than a normal head gasket. Don't make your gasket too thick or you'll destroy valuable quench area.

Things like running a huge copper head gasket or doubling up head gaskets to lower compression are not good ideas, there are different and better ways to lower compression, such as porting the combustion chamber, modifying the pistons, or using a different head or pistons altogether, if possible.

= Ancillaries =

== Distributor ==

There are a few types of distributors for these motors, which are covered elsewhere in the Wiki. I don't really have a problem with points, but some people do, so change to an electronic distributor if you want to.

What you really should do however, is get the distributor rebushed and recurved. Rebushing means to recondition the distributor so it has no play in the shaft, and gives reliably timed sparks. Recurving refers to modifying the advance weights and springs and sliders inside the distributor to change the way the distributor advances the spark as engine rpm increases.

Having the spark at an ideal point is important. If you ignite too early, you're exploding fuel which is working against the piston still rising to compress air, and wasting power. If you ignite too late, you're exploding fuel which is "chasing" a piston down the bore and not providing as much energy as it could to move the motor, and wasting power. It's said that a modified motor generally needs less overall advance than stock, but a quicker advance curve.

I sent my Bosch-type distributor down to Performance Ignition Services in Victoria who charged me $160 to reco the dizzy to new, and curve it to suit my cam timing, compression ratio and fuel supply.

Base ignition timing is 8 degrees BTDC. I got my distributor back with a sticker "set to 10' BTDC" on it, so I do that. I've found any more than 12 to be useless. It makes the motor quicker down low, but restricts the power the car makes at highway speed. When I set my stock 3K to 20 degrees, it launched like crazy around town, but couldn't get over 105km/h, as the spark was too advanced.

I think a good rule is to set the timing to suit the octane of the fuel. Stock is 8 degrees on 96 RON leaded petrol, so 10 degrees on 98 RON BP Ultimate works pretty well. In the same fashion, you should reduce your timing if you're running 92 RON regular unleaded, maybe to 4 degrees, maybe 6, try it and see.

== Ignition ==

Having good spark is important, as it helps to make a better burn in the combustion chamber, so you make more power for the amount of air-fuel you have in the cylinder.

Fitting a decent ignition coil is a good way to get better sparks. An efi coil would probably be a good idea, or a performance oil-based (round cylinder) coil. I don't really like Bosch parts so I won't recommend a GT40, but I'm running an Echlin GX80 performance coil and it's noticeably better than stock. It cost about $80.

Upgrading the ignition leads is a good idea, especially if your leads are the old stock ones. Over time, leads increase in resistance, and this reduces the power of your spark. I've had old stock leads that won't rev over 3000rpm, they just break down inside. The lowest-resistance pre-made leads I could find were, surprisingly, Repco 8mm leads. You'd probably get a set for $40? I'm running custom 10mm Topgun leads, I got them through a shop in town and Topgun made them up for me for $80.

Fitting a spark box (high energy ignition or capacitor discharge ignition) is the best way to get big sparks, though it needs the above two items to work to its' full potential. These electronic boxes usually use the points as just a trigger, instead of passing the spark through them like the stock system, so your points don't suffer from bounce as easily, and don't wear anywhere NEAR as badly. Jaycar make a HEI kit which you solder together yourself, it costs $50. Doug and Stewart have these and they go quite well. They don't work with GT40 coils either, another reason to stay away from them. A capacitor discharge ignition kit makes huge sparks, and usually multiple sparks. Dick Smith used to make a CDI kit similar to Jaycar's HEI (they're all from Silicon Chip magazine) but nobody makes it anymore, you can still buy the PCB from RCS Radio and get the article from Silicon Chip and buy the component parts yourself. And MSD is probably the most well-known CDI system, and Victorian Performance Warehouse do an MSD 6A and Blaster II coil for $440. I want to get one of these one day.

When you get either of these kits, you could probably gap your plugs out from 0.8mm to 1.0mm and get even bigger sparks without any adverse side effects. You could probably go even further to 1.2mm with an MSD.

== Water Pump ==

If you have a water pump that's working and doesn't look too rusty inside, keep using it. If you have one that's been sitting for a while, probably best to ditch it - the bearings don't like sitting for a long time and the seal must harden or something - they usually fail pretty quickly when put back on an engine. I bought a new water pump for my engine, it was between $90 and $140, I forget. There are several different types for K motors, the only difference being the fittings and sizes. Try get one that matches your current pump, or the hoses in your car if the current pump could be improved on. I haven't found any problems revving water pumps hard.

== Other Cooling ==

The stock radiator will cool a modified engine if it's working well. However these cars are getting pretty old and it's not uncommon for the radiator to be in pretty shoddy condition, my KE35 one had one whole core of fins and 1/3rd of the other core missing. I got it re-cored with a 3-row center and it works great, only ever goes above half when I idle for a while on a hot day. It cost $230.

Make sure you have a thermostat installed or you'll cavitate the top housing. I don't really think removing the thermostat and reinstalling the empty shell is a good way to solve cooling problems either. Drilling the thermostat is also of dubious value.

Early Corollas had metal cooling fans, later ones had plastic fans, and the last KE70s had clutch fans.

The metal fans are dangerous and you shouldn't use them, they're all getting really old and under stress, and like to shatter at high rpm. Alex related to me a story of his old KE10 which he was in the engine bay of, revving the throttle wheel, when something went BANG next to him. The fan had shattered, and a blade had whooshed past his head and gone straight through the wall of the garage and continued on outside. If it happened while he was driving, it would have munted the bonnet pretty bad, and possibly harmed him or a pedestrian. Don't use them.

I like the engine driven plastic fan, it moves alot of air even without a shroud. You should fit a shroud, and the engine tray, to help create good vacuum to draw air through the radiator and through to the back of the engine bay faster. The shroud is positioned best when the blades of the fan are half in and half out of it, looking at it from the top. I wouldn't use a clutch fan, just something else to break, but if you have one and it works and you can't be bothered getting a new fan then just leave it.

People fit thermofans sometimes, which is a good idea if done right. Less reciprocating mass the engine has to spin, which is the fan AND the resistance of the air it's trying to move, gives an effect similar to lightening the flywheel. A thermofan needs to be mounted on brackets which reach out to the side of the radiator, NOT bolts through the fins of the radiator with rubber washers. It also needs to have a shroud made up, which covers the whole face of the radiator and just has an opening where the circular frame of the fan blades is, or the fan basically just sucks around the circle and you don't use half of your radiator area.

== Alternator ==

There are two types of stock alternator. The Denso one is of smaller amperage, but seems to handle big revs alot better. The Bosch one fitted to Australian KE55-onwards Corollas makes 45A but old stock ones don't seem to be as hardy at 8000rpm. You can underdrive the alternator with a larger Sigma pulley, or a reconditioned alternator usually works fine, maybe the bearings wear out quickly?

The good thing about Bosch alternators is that you can upgrade them very cheaply and easily, by rebuilding parts from a higher amp Bosch inside the Corolla housing, you'll just need longer stator bolts. That's too hard for me and requires good soldering skills, so an auto elec should be able to build you a 60A alternator for about $90. This is what I have now.

The stock alternator will work fine with the stock car, but if you're adding headlights and stereo and big ignition you probably need more amps, especially in a KE10-KE30 with a tired little 35A Denso. There are upgrades available to take a Bosch alternator as high as 160A, this is what alot of large stereo cars have.

== Engine Mounts ==

Because you can make these engines pretty torquey, they'll bring out any weaknesses in engine mounts pretty quick. Usually the manifold side goes, as it's exposed to the heat of the exhaust all the time, and it gets stretched under engine rotation, not compressed like the distributor side mount does. I'm onto my 3rd one in 7000 miles, but I'm using almost 40 yearold KE10 mounts so it's to be expected.

A good way to fix this problem if you have it, is to make up a mount from the stock piece of metal which bolts to the block, and a Ford Escort or Cortina rubber, which is basically a thick rubber disc with two metal bolt threads in it. You may have to weld a piece of metal plate to the stock mount to space it out enough, (weld it to the face that sees the rubber, not the block) but it works and works well. Ford mounts aren't dear from Repco, and usually wreckers have a big container full of the things you can fish thru and get for a few dollars.

You can still get new stock-style mounts for Corollas, but they're like $130 a piece. And that's aftermarket, Toyota probably don't even make them anymore.

= Assembly =

Before I owned a Corolla, I'd never even changed a spark plug. I don't really have the money (or the inclination to spend the money) to pay someone else to build my engine for me, and I like to try different things for myself and have fun learning about the internal combustion engine and how it responds to changes in running conditions. So I built the motor myself, with no prior knowledge other than reading books and talking to people and pulling dead old free motors apart and trying to put them back together again. K motors aren't hard to work on, they're actually very simple compared to other cars I've had the pleasure (or pain) of working on.

I also take pride in the fact that I can look at my car and think of every bit that I've had down to nut and bolt components, and think "Yep, got that sussed if anything goes wrong". And it makes the repair bills SO much cheaper when something does break. And these cars are getting 20-30 years old or more, so things break and wear out all the time.

However, I understand not everybody's that mechanically inclined, so if that doesn't inspire you to have a crack and slap the old girl together yourself, then you motor will be getting built by someone else. Hopefully it's a mate and it will only cost you a carton. Generally, over half of the cost of a professional engine build is in labour, so think of what you're paying for parts and double it.

The only things I don't do myself are jobs that require a workshop full of expensive machining equipment I don't own, or stuff which I could do, but by the time I buy the tools it's cheaper just to get it done anyway. Putting a head together is a good example, considering how expensive a valve spring compressor is, and how much of a pain in the ass valve seat lapping tools are, I really don't mind paying someone the money to use their professional and precise machine shop to do this for me.

== Tools ==

If you've never built an engine before, you're going to need some tools - torque wrench, feeler gauges, measuring calipers, metric socket and spanner set to name a few - and a nice clean work area. You'll need an engine stand. Lubricate any moving metal-on-metal part such as bearing surfaces, lifters, etc in graphite grease (aka: engine assembly grease) before putting it together. The only exception to this is the piston rings, just wipe the bore down with a light coat of oil before you put the pistons in. Buy a Gregories or Haynes manual as well, so you know what goes where, in what order, and what torque setting to use. I personally find the Toyota factory service manual (The Yellow Book) to be most useful, but they're sometimes hard to find. First time you start the motor, wind it over without spark until the oil pressure light goes off. You'll probably flatten at least one battery doing this.

== Run In ==

There are alot of different ways to run in a motor, and it seems to be a bit of a "black art". The basic things to remember are that a cold engine doesn't wear much, and a hot engine doesn't wear much, but an engine between 20c and 80c does about 90% of its entire wear between these two temperatures as it's warming up. At the start, you want the engine to wear a bit, so the rings bed in and seal properly, and everything frees up and becomes happy with its new surroundings. Some things take a long time to bed in, such as the rings, some things don't take as long. For example, the big end bearings and crank bearings will be worn in the first time you start the motor. Here's how I did mine.

The first time I started the engine, I let it idle to operating temperature, giving a few revs a couple of times a minute to keep oil pressure up, then turned it off and let it go dead cold. The next time, I drove the car for about 5 minutes, turned it off and let it go dead cold. The time after that was 10 minutes, then 20 minutes, then half an hour, then an hour, then I didn't worry about temperature cycling it so much.

I ran running in oil for the first couple of hundred km or so. This is a fairly thin oil with lots of graphite particles in it. The graphite lubricates the tight metal parts as they try to rub against each other while the clearances are still really small. The oil is thin, so you shouldn't rev too hard with it in, as you can squish thin oil out of the bearing gaps, and the oil can wipe away at high component speed, leaving a fairly bare surface with chunks of graphite and metal on metal which will score surfaces which should be lubricated. After that, I changed the filter and swapped to a straight 30W oil, and kept this for a couple of thousand miles, then renewed the oil and filter with the same, and drove it for another couple thousand miles. I then changed the filter and started off with the 5w synthetic oil, but later changed to the 15w semi-synth as described in the oil section.

I tried to keep a sensible but gradually increasing rev ceiling. I took it to 6000rpm on the first day I had it, then 7000rpm on the next day, then I couldn't resist an 8000rpm test run the next day. I didn't flog the arse out of it from then on, but I kept it below 7000rpm until I got rid of the running in oil. Once I'd changed to the synth oil, I was pretty confident the motor was going to hold together, so 8000rpm became more of a regular occurrence. I didn't hold it flat and reach the 8500rpm limit of the stock carb until it was run in fully.

A K motor is an old design, and uses fairly high tension rings. At the start of the engine's life, you want to put the engine under large vacuum conditions, so the rings "suck out" against the bore walls and wear themselves into the cylinder hone, so they provide a better seal. The way to do this is to get a long section of road with no stops, and drive along at normal town speed, shift into 4th or 5th and put your foot down, letting the revs slowly increase as the engine sucks air in. Hills are really good for this, as you don't end up going too fast and speeding. Do this sort of thing as much as you can during the first 500 miles, as this is when the most ring wear occurs. Don't unnecessarily labour the engine, but don't just cruise with it either. The point is to be constantly changing the vacuum conditions of the engine. Don't take it on a long steady drive, what you want to do is constantly vary your speed and gear, so you have to put your foot down, and that makes the rings suck out and wear in better.

After about 1000 miles, I just drove the thing normally, there's not much you can do but wait, and you'll know when the engine is fully run in, it will get alot more powerful for no reason. Mine took 4 or 5000 miles. Run in period over.

There's also no point trying to tune a new fuel supply on a fresh engine, its' needs for air and fuel and vacuum are constantly changing, so you'll find yourself changing the tune every week or month, and if you get it to lean out and detonate, or you can't get it started, or you put too much fuel down the sides of the bores, the engine won't seal up as well and you'll have lost power from the word go. I'd say leave the fuel supply stock until it's run in, and you know a tune is going to last longer than the next 1000 miles.

= Air and fuel =

== Stock Manifolds ==

There are three types of stock manifold. The early KE10 manifold has straight runners and smaller inlets in the plenum area below the carburettor, Stewart used one of these manifolds when he did up his 4K, and continued to do so until he switched to EFI. I think one of the later ones might have gone better. There are two late type of manifolds, they both have curved runners which I think might be better for airflow, as well as larger holes in the plenum for the runners, as the runners are more spaced out than the straight manifold. The difference is in the port sizes, sometimes you can find one which has larger ports approximately 27mm round, compared to the normal type which are about 23-24mm round.

Removing the manifold casting between the throats (known as "hogging" the manifold) is an old performance trick from the old V8 days, and it is believed that the increase in plenum area (the bit between the throttle butterflies and the valves) helps give the engine more response if it needs it, as it has extra air to draw from.

== Downdraft Carbs ==

A downdraft carb is easy because they're plentiful and cheap, and you don't have to modify much to fit them on. Realistically, any downdraft is going to be a compromise on your power, because the air still has to turn 90 degrees inside the inlet manifold, from down to sideways.

I could write volumes on how to select a well-sized downdraft for your motor. You can't over air an engine, but you can slow down that air too much so that the engine isn't responsive and combustion suffers greatly. Generally, anything that goes well on a stock 1600cc engine will go well on a worked 1300. You've got a bit of leeway with a 5K, as it draws more air. A 32/36 DGV from a 2L Escort is too big, unless you can get one of the rare ones with small primary throats. The stock carb is 27/27 (or 27/32 on 4K onwards), so anything from there to 32mm, with primary chokes between 20mm and 25mm will probably go fairly well.

I used a modified stock carburettor for ages when I did my motor up. They only flow about 160cfm, but the small throats makes them responsive and nice to drive. They start to gasp for air about 5000rpm, the slow down alot at 7000rpm, and you can coax them to 8500rpm if you try hard. I lathed my primary throat out 1mm and it improved the response of the engine out of sight, the thing was more snappy than some EFI cars I have driven, no kidding! If you continue to use one of these Aisan carburettors, rest assured that it is your restriction point. I don't think Sprinter twincarbs would go too bad on a worked K engine, though you can get better fuel efficiency, and just as much power, out of a properly sized single, or sidedrafts.

== Sidedraft Carbs ==

A sidedraft is ideal for airflow. The ports are on the side of the head, the air should come in the side too. A set of 40mm Weber DCOEs or Dellorto DHLAs is probably the ultimate carburetion you can put on any motor, but they're expensive. Buying new, don't expect much change from 2 grand. Buying second hand is likely to cost you over $500 to just get a pair carbs in good working order. Twin 40s with 28mm chokes would be ideal, I think the 32mm chokes (next size up) would be a little too big but you could possibly get away with it.

I personally believe that SU carbs are fantastic. They're a throttle-type sidedraft with a vertically sliding piston which raises and lowers to both give a smaller throat, which improves airspeed, and to raise and lower a tapered needle, which seats into a fuel jet, to meter a different amount of fuel based on the airflow of the engine. SUs can also be quite expensive, but you can get them cheap if you look hard enough. Twin HS2 (1.25") SUs would be good for a 3K or warm 4K. HS4 (1.5") SUs would be great for a fairly worked 4K or a 5K.

Any sidedraft is going to need some sort of custom linkage design. Genuine Weber linkages are ghastly expensive, but they work really well. You can make up something out of redline linkage arms and balljoints and a stock throttle wheel if you're clever. Or you can pay someone to make them for you, same goes for tuning. Most carby places work for between $50 and $100 an hour.

== Emissions ==

The early cars had a very basic emissions system, all the features of which are a good idea to keep if you can. Ported vacuum advance is good as it allows the distributor to change the timing based on the conditions your right foot is placing the engines under, and how the engine is responding to the airflow at different RPM. The fast idle valve is helpful in summer, when your car will probably idle a bit higher because the air is less dense.

The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system is so important it gets its' own paragraph. K motors have alot of crankcase vapours, pistons just generally have alot of blowby and the rings start to float above the factory redline, so you '''need''' some sort of way to have these vapours sucked out the engine, or your oil gets ruined within 500km or less.

The stock PCV valve and carby plate is fine if you're running the stock carb or a downdraft of some kind, just modify the plate to suit, or drill and tap another fitting into the manifold. A sidedraft or SU may or may not have PCV functionality, in which case adding something to the manifold is the only way to go. Because of the way the PCV valve functions, nothing gets sucked out of the motor at full throttle. If you're doing alot of full throttle work, I'd suggest ditching the valve altogether and fitting an oil/air separator (aka: catch can) with alot of pot scrubbers in it to separate the crankcase vapours from the air, and still use the inlet manifold as a source of vacuum to suck the bad stuff out the engine.

What you definitely don't want to do is not have a PCV system, you'll just pollute your oil quickly and make a big mess on the tappet and bonnet cover if you leave the pipes open to atmosphere. I've used filters (a chrome redline filter, and a little uniflow pod) on the pipes before, and they still just make an oily mess. Use a plug or cap if you're sealing one off, a 10mm emissions cap fits great over the middle rocker cover pipe. (note: KE10 rocker covers don't have this pipe, only the rear PCV valve pipe)

Later 4K-C engines had this god awful mass of hoses and valves and the exhaust going back into the inlet manifold and vacuum secondary throat on the carb and it was just awful. I don't know if you can rip all this stuff off and have it work again, but I'd be looking at doing something about it if you're keen on making power. Likely the large overlap and varying vacuum conditions of a decent cam would confuse all the little devices anyway.

== Fuel Efficiency ==

To make power, you need to use more air, and that air needs to be mixed in a good ratio with fuel. More power means worse fuel consumption, deal with it. The good news is that these are only small engines, so they don't use that much fuel anyway. My stock 3K in is best state of tune gave about 34MPG, or 8.4L/100km. My modified 4K consistently gives about 28MPG, or 10L/100km with a mixture of town and open road driving. When I race, obviously more fuel is used, but that's what racing is.

== Exhaust Manifold ==

The stock exhaust manifold is alright if you're just playing around trying to get your car running nicely. There are two types of stock manifold, one has just one outlet pipe, the other has two pipes and is similar to tri-y (4-2-1) extractors. Generally, as you add a larger cam, you need to have tuned length extractors and a larger exhaust in place, or all the extra air your engine is now moving is too much for the stock manifold to hold, and the exhaust gases pulse back up against the inlet charge and fuel comes back in a fine mist out of the carburettor.

Any extractors will do, new ones are about $280. You can pick second hand ones up for $50-$100, or sometimes even free if you're lucky like me. Second hand extractors tend to be a pest, in that either the middle pipe has bent out and doesn't like to seal, or the end pipe (usually the rear) is bent from a poorly hung exhaust pulling on it for so many years, and is hard to line up with the head.

I've always used second hand extractors which I got for free, and by far the best thing you can do to make the manifold easy to locate and seal is use studs and nuts instead of bolts. This also puts a more even force over the threads of the head, so you're less likely to strip a thread. The normal two-piece manifold gasket can also cause sealing problems if the middle pipe is bent, but an exhaust shop should be able to sell you a one-piece extractor gasket which is much better. You can get metal ones which are alright, but I like the floppy asbestos type gaskets which are difficult to get these days.

If your manifold gasket just won't seal, there's a chance the flanges of the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold (or extractors if you're using them) are different thicknesses. Any engine builder or machine shop should be able to grind the faces of the manifolds together for you, to ensure they're flat and sealing properly. This should cost you between $40 and $80.

== Exhaust Pipe and Mufflers ==

These aren't huge motors, the absolute biggest exhaust you want on any K motor is a 2" outer diameter pipe. Even that's a little big for most applications, and a 1.75" exhaust would do fine. I'd say the smallest you'd go with performance in mind would be 1.5". I don't really think getting mandrel bends is worth the expense, you're not flowing a huge amount of gas.

If you want to reduce heat levels in the engine bay a bit, make a heat shield from metal that sits between the extractors and the inlet manifold. You'll notice the stock carb has an extension to the PCV plate that protects the float bowl from the heat of the exhaust. My heat shield is just two pieces of thin plate with a sheet of gasket material between them, bolted together and cut out in a rectangle with some indents for the manifold pipes. It's fastened to the extractors with hose clamps and holes drilled in the shield.

What mufflers you end up getting will greatly affect the noise levels the engine makes. A K motor can actually end up pretty noisy if you let it, mine's over 115dB! I'd suggest the longest resonator you can fit under the car, maybe even two if your exhaust guy can find space (and there is space there), this will muffle the noise and give it a tough deep note. A shorter resonator will make it sound good but maintain the buzzy kind of noise (which plagues all small capacity engines) up high. I'm using an offset flow straight thru muffler on the rear, and it's pretty noisy. A reverse flow muffler would probably be alot quieter, but give you less flow which means less potential for performance. I wouldn't fit a reverse flow muffler, but if your car is too noisy and you get defected (as I expect to one day) then it may be necessary.

Everyone knows that black 4" droopy tips are the best way to end any exhaust :)

= Drivetrain =

== Clutch ==

The purpose of a clutch is to transmit full power from the flywheel to the gearbox without slipping, to disengage during gearchanges to allow the gearbox parts to spin at different speed than the engine rpm, and to provide a smooth transition from one gear to another whilst driving on the street.

It is for this last reason that I don't really think a button clutch is really a good idea, they absolutely suck to drive with because a clutch, by design, is made to be slipped during normal driving. And because button clutches are designed to grab, when you do slip them, you wear the friction material and the flywheel down really quickly. If you have a racecar, then by all means they're a top idea, but not in a street car.

Really, even a new stock clutch is tough enough to stand up behind a worked 4K, Doug had the same standard clutch behind his for years, and it was making probably over 120hp. Perhaps the extra torque of a well-worked 5K would require more. A new stock clutch kit is usually about $120.

I have a Daikin Exedy Extreme Heavy Duty clutch kit in my car, which comes with a sprung organic driven plate (old school design one with bits of string in it) and a heavier pressure plate. It cost $240.

== Gearbox ==

Depending on how you treat it, the stock gearbox will either be of no concern to you, or a constant source of problems. Lots of hard launches, snapchanges, burnouts and 8000rpm grindy shifts will destroy the gearbox pretty quickly. Usually they grind the teeth off 2nd gear, but I've heard of others going, or the layshaft gear strips all its' teeth. Generally, the K40 4-speed is tougher than the K50 5-speed, as they have less shaft length to twist up and break under stress.

There do exist bellhousings to mate a Celica T40 or T50 to a K motor, and they go for about $200. Then you need to buy the gearbox, which bolts into a KE20-55 no problems. I believe a TE72 gearbox bolts into a KE70 as well. These are strong gearboxes and should stand up to 200hp.

Beyond that, there do also exist bellhousings to mate a K motor to the alloy W58 supra gearboxes. What sort of K motor needs this I don't know, but you can buy a whole spare car for less than the bellhousing costs, never mind the actual gearbox.

== Tailshaft ==

The stock tailshaft is fine in performance applications, though you might want to change the universal joints just to make sure it's up to the extra stress. A uni kit should cost about $20, and you need two of them, or 3 if you have certain KE70s. Jap tailshafts (KE10-30) and Borg Warner tailshafts (KE55-70) have different types of unis. You might want to get your tailshaft balanced if you're going to be doing alot of high speed stuff, and it will probably make the load on the gearbox and diff easier too.

Out of interest, a custom carbon fibre tailshaft is about $1200.

== Diff ==

Much like the gearbox, the diff may be fine if you treat it nicely, or you can break them often. Angela in SA is making about 215hp out of a turbo efi 5K and she has the same stock 5.7" diff as the car came out with. Then again, I've had mates who can manage to blow up a stock diff with a stock 3K. The things that kill diffs are sudden shock loading, such as dropping the clutch when you're standing still, and doing single wheelers which puts the spider gears are under too much stress. You generally don't break things when you're moving or when you don't have traction (as the shock goes to the tyres and causes them to exceed their grip limit), which is why a stock diff is fine in a dirt rally car.

I don't believe of either the Jap diff or the Aussie-only Borg Warner diff, that one is any stronger than the other. The Jap diff has a better center but thinner axles, BW centers are known to be crap, but the axles are stronger. Really, if you're driving hard enough, they're both bound to break soon. Nikki had both diffs in her 4AGE-powered KE30 and they both stood up to the punishment she gave them.

I have 4.3 gears in my diff. I think 4.1s make the car a bit sluggish. 4.5 or 4.7 would be nice, but it's already quite annoying to drive on the freeway with, though that's probably more to do with my exhaust. I'd like SLIGHTLY tighter gears, some 4.4s out of a KE26 wagon would be ideal I think. Really, it depends on what you're doing with the car. I hillclimb mine, so I'm one of the few cars that gets into 3rd gear, I want quickness. Longer gears gives you more top speed, as long as the engine is powerful enough to overcome the wind resistance.

Diff upgrades are covered on the main page. A drive in drive out shortened diff conversion is likely to cost you $1500 or more. Pick something with LSD.

= The End =

That's it. Build away. Hope you learned something!

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Heads

2008-09-07T08:32:41Z

MedicineMan:

== Heads ==

camerondownunder88 started compiling a list of head casting numbers on the forum. This has been moved here for easy access and posterity. 
 
Block - Head casting number. 
K: 
Mildport K: 45 
 
3K: 
Standard 3K: 5, 19, 31, 85, 86 (pending) 
Smallport 3K: 25 
3K Bigport without water jackets: 24010-190, 24010-141, 24010-200, 24010-217, 24010-195, 24010-155 
3K-H: 33. 
 
4K: 
Standard 4K: 3, 10, 57, 20, 13, 2, 6, 65, 1 
Mildport 4K: 11 
4K-E: 8 
 
 
5K: 
5K: 24, 2*, 11*, 16*^ 
 
7K: 
 
 
<nowiki>*</nowiki> Denotes a head with ridges under spark plug 1 and 4 identifying a dished piston head sharing (potentially sharing marked with a ^ also) a casting number with a flat top piston head. 

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''Article by camerondownunder88 / Irokin''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Gearboxes

2008-09-07T08:32:03Z

MedicineMan:

There are a few options for adapting a gearbox to a K series motor, So here is a guide is to what is out there..

[[Image:100 1648 Gearboxes.jpg]]

'''K40/K50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed manual)'''

The K40 or K50 gearbox was factory fitted behind 3K/4K/5K motors. They are the most common gearbox in early KE Corollas. TRD gearsets were available for K50 gearboxes.

'''T40/T50 (Toyota Factory 4/5 Speed Manual)'''

The T50 gearbox is a lot stronger than the K50 gearbox and is a split casing design. You can still purchase close ratio gearsets for the T50 gearboxes through TRD. The T40 or T50 gearbox can be adapted to a K series motor with a K-T Bellhousing,

''The K-T Bellhousing came in a few different forms...''

1. Cable clutch K-T Bellhousing, Extremely rare, Easier to install in earlier KE Corollas as you don't need to install a hydraulic clutch (Pictures courtesy of Xany and tojo2).

[[Image:Gearboxnetresize01.jpg]]

[[Image:Gearboxnetresize04.jpg]]

[[Image:Gearboxnetresize05.jpg]]

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[[Image:2007 0502400096.jpg]]

[[Image:2007 0502400097.jpg]]

2. Hydraulic clutch K-T Bellhousing, Rare, Requires hydraulic clutch setup to be installed. (Off KT174 5K T40/Carina, KT14x series Corona)

[[Image:Sv107233.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv107258.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv107239.jpg]]

3. TRD Upright bellhousing, Like the Holy Grail if you can find one, Cable clutch, Designed to allow for the positioning of an upright K motor. If you have one of these please send me some pictures so I can upload them here, Also your address would be great so I can come and steal it :)

'''Toyota W50 (Toyota Factory 5 Speed Manual)'''

The W5x (W50/W55) gearbox will fit if you use a K-W bellhousing from a KR42 Townace.

[[Image:DSC03137.jpg]]

[[Image:DSC03138.jpg]]

[[Image:DSC03139.jpg]]

[[Image:100 1083.jpg]]

See also:

* http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12935 (How To Fit A W50 To A K Series Motor)

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''Article by Medicine_Man / Taz_Rx / Xany / tojo2''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel Pump

2008-09-07T08:31:42Z

MedicineMan:

== Fuel Pump ==

The stock diaphragm-type mechanical fuel pump provides between 2.8 and 4.5 psi of fuel pressure to the carburettor. It is actuated via a sprung arm, which has its own lobe on the camshaft. There is also supposed to be a spacer between the block and the fuel pump. If you keep breaking pump arms and springs, this could be the reason. Otherwise, the only problem with them is that the spring wears out after prolonged (ie: 25 years) use.

If you have an uprated carb, this may need to change as per specs of the carb. Usually, better carbs get pretty fussy. For example a sidedraft will want between 2.5 and 3 psi, but will need a pump with alot of fuel flow (as they use lots of fuel), which means you'll need a pressure regulator, which will have a return line. However, Corollas don't have a return line into the tank, so just T the fuel return back into the line before the fuel pump.

If you fit an electronic pump, simply make a metal plate to go over the hole in the block where the pump was. To make it look nice, trace a fuel pump gasket to make your plate.

Fuel Miser make rubber diaphragm kits to rebuild stock pumps, they retail for about 90 bucks.

Fuel Miser also make a generic solid state electronic pump which is ideal for stock and performance carb applications, which flows 1.5L/min and supplies 2-3psi of pressure. It retails for about AU$129.

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel Filter

2008-09-07T08:31:24Z

MedicineMan:

== Fuel Filter ==

Any boring old plastic $1 fuel filter will do for one of these motors. Place it before the fuel pump. Part number is Z14.

If you want your engine bay to look trick, you can buy a glass fuel filter, usually with chromed or polished fittings, and a replaceable element.

KE10s had a glass fuel filter with a washable element. I'm not sure if these elements are available from Toyota still?

If you have decent carbs and are sucking alot of fuel, you're going to want a decent fuel filter. EFI filter Z110 (I think) has 8mm fittings but flows ALOT and would be great for high performance applications.

Nyakalis fitted a cheap "no name" fuel filter to his sons 1972 KE20. After less than a years service the glue holding the paper cartridge let go. This was now as good as no filter at all. They became aware of this only after a sick stalling engine eventually lead them to an almost blocked jet in the Aisan carby. From now on he will buy a decent brand like Ryco.

Nyakalis also writes: A useful tip if ever caught out with a blocked fuel filter of the round barrel type is to turn it upside down. As most fuel flows through the bottom two thirds of the filter the top is relatively clean. The offending filter can be changed at a later date.

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Flywheel

2008-09-07T08:31:01Z

MedicineMan:

== Flywheel ==

Three different types of flywheels can be found in these cars. Early KE1x cars seem to have had a 2 dowel flywheel with a smaller pressure plate. 3K flywheels are 3 dowel, as are 4K, but a different design which results in a lighter weight.

If you're into lightening the drivetrain for faster revs, you can get your factory flywheel lightened (usually for under $100) or custom alloy flywheel centers are usually about $400-$600, and you'll need to supply a factory flywheel for the ring gear to be removed from and pressed onto the new unit.

[http://www.jun.co.jp JUN] make alloy flywheels for 4K motors. Speedworks Auto in Perth are a reseller, 3.7kg is AUD$990, 3.4kg is $1110.

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Exhaust

2008-09-07T08:30:23Z

MedicineMan:

= Manifolds =

There are several different types of stock exhaust manifold:
* Single plane, single outlet
* Dual plane, dual outlet
* Single plane, single outlet, -C emissions

The single plane manifold is usually fitted to KE1x and 2x from the factory, it is restrictive and should be the first thing removed when upgrading the exhaust. The dual plane manifold is quite good, it separates opposing cylinders and joins them under the passenger footwell. This comes factory on most KE3x cars. You may leave this as it is, unless you're hunting for big power. It won't fit on a KE2x, as it hits the steering idler arm, however this could be remedied with custom dual pipes. They're just mild steel. The last type of exhaust manifold is just stupid, it joins the exhaust flow back into the inlet manifold via a vacuum-actuated thing. Get rid of that!

All stock exhaust manifolds connect with the intake manifolds at a bolt triangle. This triangle differs in direction /\ or \/ depending on the year of the car, it seems KE1x only had the "other" way compared to all other models. The purpose of this is to heat up the intake manifold so the fuel atomises better (in theory) and car warms up sooner.

Of course, nothing beats a good set of tuned length extractors. These range in price from free to AU$250 new, with the average for second hand units being AU$50-$100. Some extractor systems have an extension to the stock manifold triangle, most don't. Having the inlet manifold not connected to the exhaust manifold will mean you'll need to add another 5 or so minutes onto your warm-up time.

= Pipe size =

Don't go any bigger than 2", nuff said. There is really no need to go mandrel bent, but if you can afford it or do it yourself, why not? It is said a mandrel bent pipe is equivalent to a press bent pipe quarter of an inch less in size. (ie: 2" press = 1.75" mandrel)

= Mufflers =

Haven't really done alot of research on this one. My KE35 had a resonator and a "turbo" style muffler and it wasn't too noisy. Stewart's KE15 has two resonators and a reverse flow muffler, it is about the same volume, but that's the motor :) My KE25 has a small resonator and some sort of huge can and a 4" droop tip, it sounds very angry, nobody believed it was a stock 3K, now with the 4K I clutch in whenever I see a cop car.

The more you work a K motor, the deeper and angrier they seem to get. I don't know why it is, but these are really nice sounding motors. If your cam is too big, the motor will sound like a bridgeport rotary, seriously!

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Emissions System

2008-09-07T08:30:03Z

MedicineMan:

1971 3K with no emissions made 73hp. 1981 4K with Californian emissions system made 60hp. Testing method or emissions strangling?

Removing the emissions system from your Corolla is illegal everywhere I can think of, but results in improved performance and looks a heap better. Unfortunately, it's not as easy as just tearing all the hoses off your 4K-C, as there are at least three different types of carburettor corresponding to different emissions variations. It is reccomended you get your hands on an early 3K carburettor and use that instead.

Otherwise, sit down and study some diagrams and understand what everything in the emissions system does, you might be able to outsmart it. If you manage, write down how and tell me!

One useful emissions feature is the fast idle valve, which drops the engine speed at idle once it warms up, which is handy at traffic lights in summer. It's a box off the side of the air horn with a pipe joining top and bottom. You know your fast idle valve is working when you stop at traffic lights and your motor idles momentarily high then drops.

Another possibly useful feature is the PCV valve, and its accompanying hose and carby plate. The carb plate doubles as a heat shield from the exhaust manifold also. It has been discussed that the PCV system is good, as it removes contaminants from crankcase vapours that would otherwise pollute your oil quicker and possibly cause carbon deposits to form. Of course if your motor has excessive piston blowby, you're going to suck a lot of crud into the combustion chambers and coke up your head quicker. The PCV system may also help to prevent high-rpm crankcase pressure from building up, as the larger rings in K pistons seem to start floating around 6-7000rpm.

See also:

* http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/4K-C/4K-C_Emission_System_Diagram (4K-C Emission System Diagram)

* http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Emission_Systems (Emission Systems)

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''Article by Superjamie / Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/EFI

2008-09-07T08:29:38Z

MedicineMan:

K series engines at one point or another did come with factory fitted EFI also known as Electronic Fuel Injection. These only ever came on the 4K and 7K engines. Both of which can be obtained if you look hard enough.

== 4K-E ==

KP60 series Starlets which were delivered in America, Europe, Japan and New Zealand came with the 4K-E engine, sporting a blistering 1290cc of displacement. The EFI system consisted of very long intake runners so that the throttle body could be located further away from the exhaust manifold, which oddly sits on top of the rocker cover.

[[Image:4ketop.jpg]]

The oil cap filler neck had to be extended about ~60mm (~2 inches) or so taller to clear these runners as it is located at the rear of the engine on the 4K-E. If you get a 4K-E injection setup DONT FORGET THE ROCKER COVER otherwise you'll never get oil into it without hassle.

Fuel delivery is taken care of by some VERY tiny Nippon Denso 145cc "green top" Injectors which are top feed and low impedance 2.4 ohm. ''It is also worth noting that at stock fuel rail pressure and 80% duty cycle the standard 145cc 4K-E injectors would only support 92.8 horsepower at the flywheel. After that you should either try to raise fuel rail pressure or upgrade to a similar top-feed low impedance injector to suit your desired power level.''

Performance wise, the 4K-E made the same peak power as the 4K-C, The difference was that the 4K-E made peak power 1000rpm quicker at 4200rpm. Compression was raised to 9.5:1 and torque output quoted from Toyota is 74 lb-ft@3400 rpm compared to the 4K-C which only made 67 lb-ft@3600 rpm.

The design itself is quite innovative but prone to some design weaknesses which should be considered before you decide to use a 4KE injection setup on an engine that will be built for big power. A 4K-E is generally fine to use up to about 90 Horsepower (measured at the flywheel) on a naturally aspirated engine. With a forced induction engine you may be able to milk another 20 horsepower out of the 4KE but the restriction lies in the exhaust half of the head, not so much inlet side on a forced induction (Turbocharged, Supercharged, Nitrous Oxide) engines.

Points to consider when building a 4K-E for bigger power

* Injector Size. These injectors are quite small and will require upgrading to larger sizes to ''support'' increased output from the EFI setup
* 4KE Computer (ECU) isn't reprogrammable so any major change in engine output, induction, injection etc will most surely require some form of aftermarket ECU.
* Restriction of inlet design - Inlet at mouth is only ??mm wide.
* Length of runners :-
* Runners prone to "heat soak"
* Restriction of head itself - K series heads are not renown for attaining decent flow rates.
* Airflow meter - 4KE uses and airflow meter to show the ECU air/fuel ratios, better airflow would be found by ditching this and converting to a MAP sensor configuration.

Availability : It is common to see 4KE injection systems going on eBay for anywhere between AUS $50 - 250 depending on how complete they are and how many people have found out about the auction. Recently Australian's have discovered that many KP6x series starlets are coming to the end of their lifespan in New Zealand and I know that I personally hear of about ~10 units per year are being imported into Australia with that number steadily increasing.

See: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17832

Troubleshooting : After many years of searching, I am pleased to announce that rollaclub now hosts an electronic (Adobe PDF) version of the KP6x Starlet "EFI" manual on our server. This was scanned with many thanks to our friends in the USA and can be located in the Reference section of this FAQ : [[http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page#Reference_Material Reference Section]]

Not only that, but I know that some our very friendly members (the "TRD" Brothers) have recently purchased a Toyota FACTORY manual for the 4KE KP Starlets and they intend on scanning it and sharing very shortly. It covers *everything* not just the EFI system in the 4KE PDF guide above.

== 7K-E ==

My knowledge of the 7K-E only extends to those delivered in Australia, I have not been informed of any 7K-E engines delivered outside of that area, if you do know of any other regions, please contact me so I can update this entry.

'''UPDATE : I have been in contact with a person in SRI LANKA who owns a KR42 Van with a 7KE!'''

I have also scanned a copy of the 7KE Manual which may be downloaded directly from here:

http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7KE-manual.pdf (50.1 megabytes large)

The 7K was the final revision of the Toyota K series engine before it was dropped from production in 2002. Boasting 1800cc and plenty of torque, this was an engine designed for and destined to be used in Toyota's Commercial series mini-vans. These can be found by searching for any later model Toyota Vans whose chassis codes begin with ''KR4xxxxxx''

Essentially the 7K block was just a revised 5K (1500cc) design with identical piston width and specs? but the 7K was "stroked" ~300cc larger overall. This meant an engine with plenty of torque (pulling power) but not intended for huge revs or racing.

There was also a 7K-C (Carburettor) version earlier on, with the main difference being crank diameter was a couple of millimeters larger in the EFI engines to handle the higher torque. Also there are some holes in the 7K-E head that don't exist in any of the other K engines.

With a bonus for people with KExx chassis id'd cars, these engines are a much more straight forward "bolt-in" option (compared with Twin cam installations) with the promise of Bigger Torque, Bigger Power and the best benefit of EFI !

The 7K-E inlet setup features a much shorter and efficient runner design than the 4K-E did.

[[Image:7ke1.jpg]]

[[Image:7ke2.jpg]]

[[Image:7ke3.jpg]]

Once again, modifying a 7K-E injection setup will require a little bit of forward thinking and planning, but at the end of the day, this setup could quite easily run forced induction with an aftermarket ECU and a well designed exhaust manifold - you would of course want to make that all "low-mounted" and heat sheilded due to the fact that the Inlet and Exhaust is all on the same side with K Series engines.

Availability : It is becoming more common to hear about them now, but mostly people steer clear of the "truck" engine :) I would love to hear from other people using 4K-E and 7KE series engines in ''whatever'' application as it interests me quite a bit. Once again, these sell on eBay for varying amounts and at one stage or another, some of our members have owned / played with a 7KE setup.

Here is a link to a PDF file of a 7K-E setup that sold on eBay, showing that there is much demand for EFI setups [http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7ke-ebay.PDF 7KE on eBay]

Troubleshooting : I do know of someone who has access to the Toyota factory 7KE manual, and obviously being a newer engine a lot of dealerships would still have to carry it. UPDATE : We have a copy hosted now - http://www.rollaclub.com/hosted/7KE-manual.pdf (50.1MB in size)

== Aftermarket EFI ==

These are available but probably easy enough to find if you know where to look. The "TRD Brothers" have one which is for sale at the moment and is controlled by a "LINK" aftermarket ECU. It is a quad (individual) Throttle body design.

== D.I.Y. EFI ==

It might even be easy enough to make one of these yourself if you had access to the correct skills and tools to machine one. It is an idea that I would love to explore further myself. The hardest part would be creating the intake manifold to house the injector bosses and working out some form of quad throttle body butterfly and throttle position sensor system. You would also want to investigate incorperating a MAP sensor system somehow.

This is all I can think of right now, please contact me to help correct errors or to add some information of your own.

Cheers

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''Article by Grimwolge''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2008-09-07T08:29:18Z

MedicineMan:

= Stock =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).
* Holden Gemini Nikki carbs

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= Sidedraft =

New manifolds can be purchased to adapt sidedraft carbs to a K motor, Available from such places as Repco (Made by Redline and Lynx). Also you can use a Redline linkage kit which can be purchased new as well. The bolt patterns are the same for Weber/Dellorto/Solex side-draft carbs. A new manifold like my Redline one will have to be machined to fit with the extractors. Make sure you have extractors before fitting twincarbs or you will get inlet reversion. (See also - http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=10634&hl= Twin Carb Linkage Discussion On Forum)

== SU Sidedraft==

[http://www.lynxcorp.com.au LynxCorp] (Australia) Manufacture a bolt-on SU Manifold for the K series engines.

This allows 2 x SU style carbs to be bolted onto your K engine.

Part number is M-117

RRP is about AU$220.00

Previous, more detailed discussion on the messageboard can be found [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=2816&hl=su%20manifold&st=30 here]

Apparently lynx no longer manufacturers these manifolds and has run out of stock making them a hot item when for sale.

The general consensus is that 1.5" SUs are more preferable to the 1.75 on lower capacity K motors.
More information here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=15069

== Dellorto / Mikuni Solex / Weber Sidedraft ==

[http://www.redlineauto.com.au/ Redline] Manufacture a bolt-on manifold for the K series engines.

There are 2 different versions to suit either a single or dual carbs.

Part number for single carb manifold is 12-3112

Part number for dual carb manifold is 12-3062

[[Image:Post-6-1153469779.jpg]]

See also:

* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

* [[Tech:Engine/K_Series/Nikki_Carb_On_A_4K|How to adapt a Nikki Carby to a 4K]]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburettor (Wikipedia entry for 'Carburettor').

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''Article by Superjamie / Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Camshaft

2008-09-07T08:28:58Z

MedicineMan:

== Camshaft ==

There are two stock camshaft profiles. The first is found in Sprinter motors with twincarbs (K-B, 3K-B), it's an 18-58 (256 degrees). The second is found in all other K motors with solid lifters, and is a 16-50 (246 degrees) with 0.338" intake valve lift and 0.356" exhaust valve lift.

The camshaft is modified by grinding the lobes, you don't have to buy a new cam when you want different valve openings.

There are many, many aftermarket cam grinds available for these motors. Here are some popular ones:

'''Tighe 112:''' 20-60, 260 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (best for 3K engine, most torque in 4k/5k, 6500rpm peak power)

'''Tighe 104:''' 25-65, 270 degrees, 0.423" valvelift (best for powerful 4K/5K, alot of torque, 7500rpm peak power)

'''Wade 169x:''' 30-70, 280 degrees, 0.405" valvelift (custom cam in Doug's rally car, slightly more top end, slightly less torque than above)

'''Camtech 609:''' 33-64/72-32, 277/284 degrees, 0.435" valvelift (this is Stewart's cam, peak power 8000+rpm)

'''Waggott 605:''' 21-61/63-19, 262 degrees, 0.347"/0.343" valvelift (stage 1 grind, Alex uses this one, peak power 6500rpm)

Note: Tighe 104 cam does not appear to have an aggressive/lumpy idle (Camshaft supplied, They charge you $110 to grind a standard cam to spec) - Justin...

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''Article by Superjamie / Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks

2008-09-07T08:24:43Z

MedicineMan:

== Description ==

All K Motors are watercooled inline 30-degree slant 4-cylinders, have overhead valves with pushrods, and are driven by a single or double row timing chain. Ranging from 1.0 to 1.8L made from 1966 to present, they appear in Corolla RWD (KE series), Publica and Starlet RWD (KP series), and various Toyota Vans. Currently still in production in the TownAce SBV (7K) and Toyota Industrial forklifts (4K).

Models up to 4K have points-style distributors, some 4K, and all later motors have an electronic distributor, of which there is an external ignitor dizzy on 4Ks and internal ignitor model on 5/7K. There is one common manifold stud design across all Ks, however sumps can vary depending on vehicle application

4K onwards have a 10mm higher deck height than 3K and earlier. All Ks have an aluminium alloy head, the 1K, 3K and 4K combustion center is in the head, while 5K and 7K perform combustion in the cylnder bore (called a heron-type combustion chamber). 1K-5K heads are interchangeable (disregarding the resulting compression), however 7K head bolt pattern is different to all the others, in that it has 3 more bolt positions neaar the pushrods

Dished piston 4Ks did exist, in the 4K-U and 4K-E variants, each having different piston dish capacity. Most 5Ks are dished, but there are some 5k's with flat top pistons, these engines also can have solid lifters,however aftermarket flat-top pistons do exist.

The diaphragm-type fuel pump is mounted on the side of the block and actuated by a lobe on the camshaft. The injected 4K-E has a different rocker cover than the others due to intake plenum design. Oil filter is Toyota Genuine Parts 15601-33021 (Ryco Z68). The small oil filter from 4A engine (part no?) also fits, as does a large Ford Z9 filter.

All K blocks have the same bellhousing studs and engine mount points, so you can drop a 7K in place of your 1K without a problem. Automatic cars have a different engine backing plate than the manuals, but all gearboxes bolt up to all engine blocks.

The Gregories says this more eloquently than I can:

The five bearing crankshaft and flywheel are dynamically balanced and crankshaft end play is controlled at the centre main journal by thrust washers which are separate from the main bearings. The main big end bearings are replaceable steel backed shells. The cam ground alloy pistons are equipped with two compression rings and one oil control ring. The fully floating gudgeon pin is offset towards the camshaft side of the engine and is secured by circlips at both ends. Connecting rods are H section forged steel. The camshaft is chain driven and supported in four precision type bearings. The aluminium alloy cylinder head is designed with wedge shaped combustion chambers to allow efficient heat distribution. These wedge type chambers, together with independant inlet and outlet ports, provide smooth performance during all operating conditions. The lubrication system is a forced feed, full flow filtering type. The trochoid gear type oil pump is driven through the distributor shaft from the camshaft. The oil filter is a spin-on throw away type.

=== Specifications ===

<table border="1" width="100%">
<tr>
<td width="11%">Engine</td>
<td width="11%">Year</td>
<td width="11%">Displacement</td>

<td width="11%">BHP</td>
<td width="11%">Torque (lb-ft)</td>
<td width="11%">Bore (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">Stroke (mm) 
</td>
<td width="11%">CR</td>

<td width="11%">Notes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">K</td>
<td width="11%">66-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%">62.7@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">K-B</td>
<td width="11%">68-69</td>
<td width="11%">1077</td>
<td width="11%">73@6600</td>
<td width="11%">66.3@4400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">2K</td>
<td width="11%">69-88</td>

<td width="11%">993</td>
<td width="11%">45@5600</td>
<td width="11%">49@4000</td>
<td width="11%">72</td>
<td width="11%">61</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">73@6000</td>

<td width="11%">74.2@3800</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-B</td>
<td width="11%">69-75</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">83@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>
<td width="11%">sprinter twincarb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-D</td>
<td width="11%">69-77</td>

<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">79@6600</td>
<td width="11%">75@4200</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">10:1</td>

<td width="11%">dual carb</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">3K-H</td>
<td width="11%">74-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>

<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">3K-C</td>
<td width="11%">77-79</td>
<td width="11%">1166</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>

<td width="11%">66</td>
<td width="11%">8.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">78-89+</td>

<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">80-81</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">60@6000</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-U</td>

<td width="11%">82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">74@5600</td>
<td width="11%">78@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Japanese emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K</td>
<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>

<td width="11%">65@5600</td>
<td width="11%">72@3600</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.4:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>

</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-C</td>
<td width="11%">81-82</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@5200</td>
<td width="11%">67@3600</td>

<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%">Californian emissions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">4K-E</td>

<td width="11%">82-84</td>
<td width="11%">1290</td>
<td width="11%">58@4200</td>
<td width="11%">74@3400</td>
<td width="11%">75</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>

<td width="11%">9.5:1</td>
<td width="11%">Fuel Injection</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="11%">5K</td>
<td width="11%">83-89</td>
<td width="11%">1496</td>

<td width="11%">70@4800</td>
<td width="11%">85@3200</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>
<td width="11%">73</td>
<td width="11%">9.3:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
<tr>

<td width="11%">7K</td>
<td width="11%">98</td>
<td width="11%">1781</td>
<td width="11%">76@4600</td>
<td width="11%">103@2800</td>
<td width="11%">80.5</td>

<td width="11%">87.5</td>
<td width="11%">9:1</td>
<td width="11%"> </td>
</tr>
</table>

Please note that these are intended to be FACTORY quoted BHP and torque figures.

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''Article by Superjamie''

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Tech:Engine/K Series/Alternator

2008-09-07T08:24:25Z

MedicineMan:

There are two basic types of alternator used on K motors. They are fully interchangeable, as long as you get the accompanying top and bottom brackets.

The Denso manufactured unit is the japanese production alternator. It's a 35A three-phase unit with an external regulator, quite limiting once you start to add goodies that steal your ignition voltage (90/100 headlights, gauges, etc). The later Bosch alternator is a bit better, it supplies 40A and has an internal regulator, so your engine bay looks neater and you don't have to worry about wiring during a transplant. In my experience, you usually find Denso alternators on early models (KE1x, 2x, 3x) and Bosch ones on later models (KE5x, 7x) but this is not always the case.

However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor) use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley.

The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A. It is recommended that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!

Note: Justin recommends 6 B&S cable between the B+ terminal and your battery terminal.

[[Image:Corolla Alternator Wiring Diagram Externally Regulated.jpg]]

See also:

* http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=17827 (Externally Regulated Alternator Wiring)
* http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=20341 (Externally Regulated Alternator To Internally Regulated)

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Installing an Aftermarket Tacho Into KE70

2008-09-07T05:12:00Z

MedicineMan:

If you wish to install an aftermarket tacho into a KE70 Corolla, You can utilise the factory wiring harness (As far as I am aware the tacho signal wire is already there to suit a CSX tacho dash cluster from factory). The tacho signal is taken off the negative side of the coil (black wire) and can be traced back behind the dash cluster on the left side of the third connector (going left to right) Marked with the red arrows.

[[Image:Sv100773.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv100774.jpg]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tachometer

2008-09-07T05:11:47Z

MedicineMan:

A tachometer or tacho as it is more commonly know is a device used to show the rotational rate of an engines crankshaft. Measured by the spark rate of the ignition system the tacho is gauged in RPM (Revolutions Per Minute). This is moreso for manual vehicles to assist the driver in helping when to shift gears.

[[Installing an Aftermarket Tacho Into KE70]]

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Changeover Relay Wiring

2008-09-07T05:10:25Z

MedicineMan:

Changeover Relay
--------------

A Changeover Relay differs from a standard relay due to the fact that it is acts as a normally closed relay until the coil windings are energised.

[[Image:Relay Diagram Changeover.JPG]]

Wiring Diagram:

Pin 30 - 12v Power.

Pin 85 - Earth.

Pin 86 - Switch.

Pin 87A - Normally Closed Contact.

Pin 87 - Normally Open Contact.

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Standard Relay Wiring

2008-09-07T05:09:55Z

MedicineMan:

Standard Relay
--------------

A relay is an electrical switch that is commonly used in cars to control such electrical items as your headlights and thermo fan. The relay can be broken down into 2 circuits, The control circuit and the load circuit. As the current flows through the control circuit It creates a small magnetic field which causes the load circuit switch to close. Once the switch is closed, current can then flow through the load circuit. The main idea behind the relay is so you don't have to bring high current wires inside the cabin of the car as the relay is controlled remotely. Below is an example of a generic relay and wiring diagram for it.

[[Image:Relay.jpg]]

[[Image:Relay Diagram.jpg]]

Wiring Diagram:

Pin 30 - 12v Power.

Pin 85 - Earth.

Pin 86 - Switch.

Pin 87 - Switched power out #1.

Pin 87A - Switched power out #2.

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Circuit Opening Relay Wiring

2008-09-07T05:08:51Z

MedicineMan:

Circuit Opening Relay
---------------------

A circuit opening relay can be used to run a electronic fuel pump in an EFI car. The circuit opening relay provides power to the fuel pump while cranking and keeps running when the engine starts up (Provided your ECU has a place you can wire it to). I have used a circuit opening relay in my AE86 4AGE wired to the "FC" pin on the ECU.

If the engine is running an AFM then the same relay can be used, but the green wire needs to be connected to the AFM. There are two pins you need to find on the AFM (usually both are at one end of the plug) these pins are connected when the AFM flap is open at all, and disconnected if the AFM flap is completely closed. Connect one pin to earth and the other to the green wire out of the relay.

[[Image:Sv100466.jpg]]

[[Image:Sv100467.jpg]]

Wiring Diagram:

White/Black - Wires to to STA - Starter/ECU Start Signal.

White/Red - Wires to EFI Relay - +12v Ignition Switched power (Run through a suitably sized fuse, 10A is usually fine, but depends on your fuel pump).

Green - Wires to engine run signal - "FC" pin on 4AGE ECU. Or if you are running an AFM engine, this wire should connect to the AFM.

Black - Wires to body earth - Wire to closest earth point.

Blue/Black - Wire to fuel pump positive - Gives power to your fuel pump.

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Relays

2008-09-07T05:08:16Z

MedicineMan:

Relays
------

A relay is used to control a high-current circuit with a low-current signal, as in the starter solenoid of your motor. They are a simple electromechanical switch made up of an electromagnet and a set of contacts. They can be broken down into 2 circuits (A control circuit and a load circuit). The control circuit is the side with the coil and the load circuit is the side with the switch. When a current flows through the coil, the resulting magnetic field attracts an armature that is mechanically linked to a moving contact. The movement either makes or breaks a connection with a fixed contact.

[[Circuit Opening Relay Wiring]]

[[Standard Relay Wiring]]

[[Changeover Relay Wiring]]

See also:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf (More information on relays).

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Dash Cluster

2008-09-07T05:05:19Z

MedicineMan:

[[KE70 Dash Cluster (AUS)]]

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''Article by Medicine_Man''

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Tech:Electrical/Starter Motor/Notes For Corolla

2008-09-07T05:04:51Z

MedicineMan:

KE1x starters are 1mm shorter than all the others. Don't ask me why, but I've seen parts books that list this as the only difference between them.

KE70 starters have a heat shield that bolts onto the housing, to prevent the solenoid overheating after prolonged exposure to exhaust heat, which is a problem with the design of these small cars. You could also try metal exhaust wrap or "Jet Hot" or similar coatings to reduce under bonnet temperatures.

An interesting thing to note is that the starter solenoid earths through the housing, so if you're painting an engine backing plate, you'll have to sand the bits around where the starter bolts onto, or the solenoid will stick out and stay out even once the motor has started.

There are also subtle differences in the position of the solenoid in some starters, in that the assembly is more vertical to provide increased exhaust manifold clearance. This relates to the wattage of the starter motor, 0.6kW starters are vertical, 0.8kW starters hang the solenoid out more. According to my factory service manuals, there is also a gear reduction type starter available, Mark from NZ has seen one of these hanging off a 5K in a KT147 Corona wagon. (Can confirm that reduction starters are available on 5K motors http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=13845&hl= - Medicine_Man).

All starters put out 4 ft-lb and spin at 250 rpm.

These things are a bastard to change, as they're way down there under the exhaust manifold, the job becomes even more of a pain when you fit extractors. The best way I've found to tackle the problem is to turn the starter so the solenoid (the little bit) is hanging horizontal (closest to the strut tower) and guide the housing up over the starter hole with a twist. Sometimes you just have to take the manfold off.

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Tech:Electrical/Starter Motor/Planetary Type

2008-09-07T05:04:37Z

MedicineMan:

== Planetary Type ==

'''Construction'''

The planetary type starter uses planetary gear to reduce the rotational speed of the armature, As with the reduction type, And the pinion gear meshes with the reduction gear via a drive lever, As with the conventional type.

[[Image:Planatery Starter Construction.jpg]]

'''Operation'''

* '''''1. Speed Reduction Mechanism'''''

Reduction of the armature shaft's speed is accomplished by three planetary gears and 1 internal gear. When the armature shaft turns, The planetary gear turns in the opposite direction, Which attempts to cause the internal gear to turn. However since the internal gear is fixed, The planetary gears themselves are forced to rotate inside the internal gear. Since planetary gears are mounted on the planetary gear shaft, The rotation of the planetary gears cause the planetary gear shaft to turn also. The gear ration of the armature shaft gear to the planetary gears and internal gear is 11:15:43, Which results in a reduction ratio of approximately 5, Reducting the rotational speed of the pinion gear to approximately 1/5 of its original speed.

[[Image:Planatery Starter Speed Reduction Mechanism.jpg]]

* '''''2. Damping Device'''''

The internal gear is normally fixed, But if too much torque is applied to the starter, The internal gear is caused to rotate, Allowing the excess torque to escape and preventing damage to the armature and other parts. The internal gear is engaged with a clutch plate and the clutch plate is pushed by a spring washer. If excess torque is brought to bear on the internal gear, The clutch plate overcomes the pushing force of the spring washer and turns, Causing the internal gear to rotate, In this way, The excess torque is absorbed.

[[Image:Planatery Starter Damping Device.jpg]]

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Tech:Electrical/Starter Motor/Reduction Type

2008-09-07T05:04:18Z

MedicineMan:

== Reduction Type ==

'''Construction'''

This type of starter motor contains a magnetic switch, A compact high-speed motor, Several reduction gears, A pinion gear, A starter clutch etc. The extra gears reduce the motor speed by a factor of one to three or four and transmit it to the pinion gear. The plunger of the magnetic switch directly pushes the pinion gear, Which is located on the same axis, Causing it to mesh with the ring gear. This type of starter motor generates much greater torque, In proportion to size and weight, Than the conventional type.

[[Image:Reduction Starter Motor Diagram.jpg]]

'''Operation'''

* '''''1. Ignition Switch In START Position'''''

When the ignition switch has been turned to the START position, Terminal 50 passes electrical current from the battery to the hold-in and pull-in coils. From the pull-in coil, The current then flows to the field coils and armature coils via Terminal C. The motor rotates at a lower speed at this point, Since the energized pull-in coil causes a voltage drop which limits the supply of current to the motor components (The field coils and the armature). The hold-in and pull-in coils, At the same time, Set up a magnetic field which pushes the plunger to the left against the return springs. The pinion gear therefore shifts to the left until it engages with the ring gear. The low motor speed at this stage means that both gears mesh smoothly. The screw splines also help the pinion and ring gears to engage more smoothly.

[[Image:Reduction Starter Motor Start.jpg]]

* '''''2. Pinion And Ring Gears Engaged'''''

When the magnetic switch and the screw splines have pushed the pinion gear to the position where it meshes completely with the ring gear, The contact plate attached to the plunger turns the main switch on by short-circuiting the connection between terminals 30 and C. The resulting connection allows the larger electrical current to pass through the starter motor, Which causes the motor to rotate with a greater torque. The screw splines help the pinion gear mesh more securely with the ring gear. At the same time, The voltage levels at both ends of the pull-in coil become equal so that no current flows through this coil. The plunger is therefore held in position by the magnetic force exerted by the hold-in coil.

[[Image:Reduction Starter Pinion Ring Gears Engaged.jpg]]

* '''''3. Ignition Switch In ON Position'''''

Turning the ignition switch back to the ON position from START cuts off the voltage being applied to terminal 50. The main switch remains closed, However, Some current flows from Terminal C to the hold-in coil via the pull-in coil. Since current flows through the hold-in coil in the same direction as when the ignition switch is in the START position, It generates a magnetic force which pulls the plunger. In the pull-in coil on the other hand, Current flows in the opposite direction, Generating a magnetic force which attempts to return the plunger to its original position. The magnetic fields set up by these two coils cancel each other out, So the plunger is pulled backward by the return springs. Therefore, The heavy current which has been supplied to the motor is cut off and the plunger disengages the pinion and ring gears at about the same time. The armature used in the reduction type starter motor has less inertia than the one in the conventional type, So friction soon brings it to a stop. This type of starter motor therefore does not require the brake mechanism used in the conventional type starter motor.

[[Image:Reduction Starter On.jpg]]

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