Rollaclub - User contributions [en]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-07-02T07:19:11Z

Wyldephyre: /* See Also */

= Stock =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

= External Links =
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carburettor Wikipedia entry for 'Carburettor' ]
<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Help:Introduction to WikiText

2005-05-22T01:12:31Z

Wyldephyre:

In Wikis, proper markup of text plays an important role; It is not merely cosmetic. Headings are used to generate Tables of Contents, and links within the wiki, and links to external sites are diffent.

= Organisation =

An article in MediaWiki is analogous to a webpage. Articles may belong in one more categories. Categories, in turn, maybe subcategories themselves. Within an article, sections are distinguished be headings.

== Categories ==
Categories are assigned to a page like this:
<pre>
[[Category: (Name of category)]]
</pre>

So for example, to put an article in the [[:Category:Fuel System | Fuel System Category]], we use:
<pre>
[[Category:Fuel System]]
</pre>

<h3>Notes</h3>
* It is convention to put category tags at the bottom of each article.
* An article may belong in more than one category.
* You link to a category page like this: <code>[[<strong>:</strong>Category:Fuel System]]</code>. (Note the extra '':'' before <code>Category</code>.
* Adding a category tag to a category page makes it a subcategory.

== Headings ==

<pre>
= Heading One =
== Heading Two ==
=== Heading Three ===
until
====== Heading Six ===
</pre>

For example, the article about [[Carburettor|Carburettors]] has the following sections:
* Stock Carbys
* Aftermarket
** Fitting aftermarket carburettors
* See Also

This would be marked up as:
<pre>
= Stock =
= Aftermarket =
== Fitting aftermarket caburettors ==
= See Also
</pre>

<h3>Notes</h3>
* Headings are used to generate the Table of Contents at the top of each page.
* If you do not want a heading to appear in the TOC, use the corresponding html tag instead of the ='s.

= Links =

= Tables =

= Images and Media =

= See Also =

Help:Introduction to WikiText

2005-05-22T01:11:12Z

Wyldephyre: /* Headings */

Help:Introduction to WikiText

2005-05-22T01:09:49Z

Wyldephyre: /* Organisation */

Help:Introduction to WikiText

2005-05-22T00:59:46Z

Wyldephyre:

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-05-22T00:58:59Z

Wyldephyre: /* Stock Carbys */

= Stock =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Help:Contents

2005-05-22T00:14:18Z

Wyldephyre:

Welcome to the RollaClub Wiki. This Wiki is intended to be a repository for information about Corollas. The information here is from discussions on the [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php Rollaclub message board], as well as contributed by various members.

If you would like to contribute to this site, the following articles maybe of interest to you:
* [[Help:Introduction to WikiText | Introduction to WikiText]]
* [[Help:How this Wiki is organised| How this Wiki is organised]]
* [[Help:Style Guide | Style Guide]]

Help:Contents

2005-05-22T00:14:05Z

Wyldephyre:

Welcome to the RollaClub Wiki. This Wiki is intended to be a repository for information about Corollas. The information here is from discussions on the [http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php Rollaclub message board], as well as contributed by various members.

If you would like to contribute to this site, the following articles maybe of interest to you:
* [Help:Introduction to WikiText | Introduction to WikiText]
* [Help:How this Wiki is organised| How this Wiki is organised]
* [Help:Style Guide | Style Guide]

Tailshaft

2005-05-22T00:02:58Z

Wyldephyre:

There are several different lengths of tailshaft throughout these cars. Auto and manual tailshafts from the same series car are also different. KE3x and 5x are interchangable as long as they have the same type of differential, all others need the tailshaft from the same series vehicle.

Some KE70s have a two piece tailshaft, mostly Australian-spec sedans, wagons and alot of 70s in New Zealand have one-piece units, apparently there are about 6 different types! All the earlier Corollas have one piece shafts.

All pinions on Japanese tailshafts are interchangable.
<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Axles

2005-05-22T00:02:42Z

Wyldephyre: /* T-series Axles */

= T-series Axles =

[[Image:PICT2313-vi.jpg|thumb|From left to right: RA40, RA23, TA22]]

Lots of people talk about T-series diffs, kouki and zenki etc, but few people ever mention the axles. And then there's the people who say that if you have a non-LSD T-series diff and you want to put a TRD LSD center in, then you need to shorten the axles about 5mm.

Well anyways, what I wanted to point out is:

Not all T-series axles are created equal. There are at least (and probably more) 3 different sorts:

* TA22: These are fairly short, fairly thin, and use tiny bearings
* RA23/28, TA23: These are slightly longer than TA22, look to be a bit thicker, and use a much bigger bearing
* RA40/60: These are identical to RA23, except 30mm longer. Same bearing etc.

Measured with my dodgy tape measure, from axle flange to end:

* TA22: 550mm
* RA23: 555mm
* RA40: 585mm

I'm not sure about the mounting plate, but visually they look the same. Splines are the same (obviously).

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Differential Housing

2005-05-22T00:02:09Z

Wyldephyre:

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Differential Gears

2005-05-22T00:01:55Z

Wyldephyre: /* 6.7" (T) */

= Japanese =

Early corollas (KE1x, 2x, 3x) all had banjo-type front-loading differential centers, commonly called the Jap diff. KE1x and some 2x had 5.7" ring gears, other KE2x and 3x had 6". There are two different pinion flanges for these diffs, but the tailshaft unis are the same, so it's no big drama if, for example, you put a 6" KE30 center in your 6" KE25 diff and the pinion is different.

I am pretty sure you can put a 5.7" center into a 6" housing as well. The difference is in the ring gear only, not the carrier.

= Borg Warner =

KE5x and 7x Corollas in Australia had Borg Warner differentials, you can't change these centers as easily as in a Jap diff. KE5x have 6" ring gears, KE70s have 6.38". Apparently some KE1x cars had a Borg-Warner type diff as well, limited info available on these. KE20s have Borg Warner diffs from when they were made in Australia. All KE25s were imported, so they all have Jap diffs.

= Comparision =

So which is stronger? It really depends who you talk to. I personally would prefer a Jap diff, because even if you do destroy a center, it's bloody easy to change. I have seen both types of diff stand up to a decent amount of punishment (traffic light launches, weekend racetrack action, etc) behind a 96kw 4AG in a KE30.

Both factory diffs take 1L of oil. A common trick is to park your car on a downhill slope, so you can put more oil in, useful if you have a worn center or are running thinner oil or are just giving your car a hard time.

= Upgrades (different housing) =

Common upgrades are a Celica/T18/Corona T series 6.7" diff (clutch-type TRD LSD centers available AU$1200 ex-Japan, Cusco and Kaaz also available for more money), R31 Skyline diff (factory 4-pinion clutch-type LSD and disc brakes), 8" Hilux diff (many ratios and LSD available, rumored to be quite heavy), Mitsubishi Scorpion (LSD and good ratios available out of some L300 vans, but rare), even live-axle Datsun 1600 (wagon).

Depending on the car you are putting it into (obviouly KE3x, 5x and 7x are a bit wider than KE1x and 2x) just about any bigger diff you want to use is going to have to be shortened and have leaf mounts welded onto it. If putting into a KE3x, 5x or 7x, then Celica/T18 diffs will fit without shortening, but with the correct mounts welded on. With any of these, you'll obviously need to do something about your tailshaft.

= Limited Slip (without changing housing) =

Yes, there is a limited slip center that bolts into a Corolla housing, they were used in American KP Starlets. Sometimes you can find them in 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, more often than not they are the ridiculously low 2.928. Option1Garage on the Gold Coast import these for around $880. There are also people who "make" a sortof limited slip conversion, one such company in America is Phantom Grip. Tayell Automotive in Bentleigh East (Vic) advertise a similar service for around $250.

= Ratios =

Borg Warner diffs have the ratio written on a plate at the bottom of the diff center, facing the rear of the car.
For Jap diffs, read the plate on your firewall, and relate to the list below. Most are U292 or U282, sometimes U209 or U211, rarely U231.

[http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/AxleCodes.html From Helene & Matti's page]

== First digit: ring gear diameter ==
{|
|----
|A
|138mm
|----
|B
|145mm
|----
|C
|6.25"
|----
|D
|6.62"
|----
|E
|7.1"
|----
|F
|7.5"
|----
|G
|8"
|----
|H
|9"
|----
|J
|9.25"
|----
|K
|9.5"
|----
|L
|10.5"
|----
|M
|12.5"
|----
|N
|13.5"
|----
|P
|14"
|----
|Q
|12"
|----
|R
|162mm
|----
|S
|6.38"
|----
|T
|6.7"
|----
|U
|6"
|----
|V
|10.6"
|----
|W
|15.5"
|----
|X
|142mm
|----
|Y
|158mm
|----
|Z
|202mm
|----
|No ring Gear
|FWD
|}

== Second, third digits: gear ratio ==

{|
|----
|01
|3.30
|----
|02
|3.36
|----
|03
|3.545
|----
|04
|3.556
|----
|05
|3.70
|----
|06
|3.889
|----
|07
|3.90
|----
|08
|4.111
|----
|09
|4.222
|----
|10
|4.375
|----
|11
|4.444
|----
|12
|4.625
|----
|13
|4.79
|----
|14
|4.875
|----
|15
|5.125
|----
|16
|5.286
|----
|17
|5.60
|----
|18
|5.714
|----
|19
|5.833
|----
|20
|6.167
|----
|21
|6.667
|----
|22
|6.78
|----
|23
|6.833
|----
|24
|7.64
|----
|25
|4.556
|----
|26
|5.571
|----
|27
|3.364
|----
|28
|4.30
|----
|29
|4.10
|----
|30
|3.727
|----
|31
|3.909
|----
|32
|6.591 or 4.807
|----
|33
|7.503 or 5.583
|----
|34
|6.781 or 4.786
|----
|35
|7.636 or 5.60
|----
|36
|4.778
|----
|37
|3.583
|----
|38
|3.417
|----
|39
|3.154
|----
|40
|5.375
|----
|41
|3.308
|----
|42
|6.500
|----
|43
|3.550
|----
|44
|3.214
|----
|45
|3.533
|----
|46
|2.928
|----
|47
|3.944
|----
|48
|3.356
|----
|49
|3.729
|----
|50
|3.400
|----
|51
|3.736
|----
|52
|3.722
|----
|53
|3.250
|----
|54
|3.941
|----
|55
|3.333
|----
|56
|2.821
|----
|57
|4.058
|----
|58
|3.238
|----
|59
|3.234
|----
|60
|3.519
|----
|61
|2.724
|----
|62
|2.892
|----
|63
|2.655
|----
|64
|4.312
|----
|65
|3.837
|----
|66
|3.071
|----
|67
|3.526
|----
|68
|3.095
|----
|69
|4.176
|----
|70
|5.857
|----
|71
|2.962
|----
|72
|3.949
|----
|73
|4.285
|----
|}

== Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no ==

== Code pinions LSD ==
{|
|----
|2
|2
|no
|----
|3
|2
|yes
|----
|4
|4
|no
|----
|5
|4
|yes
|----
|}

= Application guide =

Based on a table from [http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/diffSize.html Helene & Matti's page]

== 5.6" (X) ==
Starlet KP61 81-82

== 5.7" (B) ==
Corolla KE1x
Corolla KE20,25,26 70-74

== 6.0" (U) ==
Corolla KE2x (some) KE30 77-79
Starlet KP61 83-84

== 6.25" (C) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74

== 6.38" (S or R) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74
Corolla TE31,37,38,71,72,75 75-82
Corolla AE71,72 83
Tercel AL10 80

== 6.62" (D) ==
Carina TA12 72-73
Corona RT62,72,63,73,83,93 70-72
Corolla TE27 (some) 74

== 6.7" (T) ==
Celica ALL 71-85 (RWD)
Corona RT85,95,104,114,105,115,119,134,32,34,36 72-82
Corolla TE37,51 75-79
Corolla TE27 (some) 74
Corolla AE86 83-87 (?)

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Manual Gearbox

2005-05-22T00:01:19Z

Wyldephyre:

Corolla manual gearboxes are integral-bellhousing cable-clutch units called the K40 (4 speed) and K50 (5 speed). They are interchangeable over all models, with the only difference being gear ratio over year models, and the shifter position on the extension housing. KE1x have the shifter all the way forward, KE2x 3x and 5x have the shifter in the middle, KE7x have the shifter at the back. Most people tend to prefer the 7x shifting position, even when placed in the earier cars and a hole cut in the floor. Extension housings between 4 and 5 speed are not interchangeable. All K manuals have the same output shaft. If you're building a tough K motor and/or enjoy doing burnouts and giving your driveline a general hard time, K50s are reputed to be weaker than K40s, but some people disagree with this.

According to Toyota parts catalogs, some early 1974 KE35s came out with Celica T50 boxes and a bellhousing to adapt this to the K motor. These bellhousings are quite rare, but not entirely unattainable. A T40 or T50 will bolt into KE2x onwards Corollas, use the rear gearbox crossmember holes in the floorpan. You may have to space up and modify the gearbox crossmember and/or mount where the box joins the crossmember. T gearboxes will fit in factory-auto KE1x cars, manuals will need tunnel mods.

If, somehow, you make a K motor that is so tough it eats T50s on a regular basis, Conversion Components Ltd in New Zealand sell a kit to adapt a K motor to a W55 supra box. These are huge boxes, you're going to have to chop the tunnel in any Corolla you try stuff this box into.

= Oil Fill Quantities =

K40 - 1.7L
K50 - 2.45L
T40 & T50 - 1.5L

After you drain the oil, you can either crawl under your car and fill it through the actual filler hole on the side, or (much easier) you can pull the shifter out (undo the 4 bolts, not the circlip) and pour the oil in there slowly.

= Ratios =

Doug spotted that there are two different ratios across the series, listed below:

KE10, KE20, KE30, possibly KE55 w/ 4 Spd

1st 3.684
2nd 2.050 with 1K motor, 2.022 with 3K motor
3rd 1.383
4th 1.000
Rev 4.316

KE55 w/ 5 spd, KE70

1st 3.789
2nd 2.220
3rd 1.435
4th 1.000
5th 0.865
Rev 4.316

There were apparently no 5 speeds in KE10s or 20s.

from Helene & Matti's page
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Gearboxes.html

<table border="1" width="100%" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="3">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><b>type</b></td>
<td><b>reverse</b></td>
<td><b>1st</b></td>

<td><b>2nd</b></td>
<td><b>3rd</b></td>
<td><b>4th</b></td>
<td><b>5th</b></td>
<td><b>6th</b></td>
<td><b>weight</b></td>

<td><b>stock hp</b></td>
<td><b>applications</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T40</td>
<td>-3.484</td>
<td>3.587</td>

<td>2.022</td>
<td>1.384</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>~24kg</td>

<td>105</td>
<td>82 Corona (3A), 83 Corona (1S/3T-E), 83 Carina (3A, some), 83 Celica (1S)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>T50</td>
<td>-3.484</td>
<td>3.587</td>

<td>2.022</td>
<td>1.384</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>0.861</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>25.5kg</td>

<td>124</td>
<td>124 82-83 Carina (3A/1S/2T-GE/3T-E), 83 Celica (3T-E,2T-GE), 82 Corona (1S), 86 Corolla Levin (4A-GELU, 3A-U/4A-U some)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>W55</td>
<td>-4.091</td>
<td>3.566</td>

<td>2.056</td>
<td>1.384</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>0.850</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>35kg</td>

<td>190</td>
<td>82-83 Carina/83+85 Celica/83 Corona (3T-GTE), 86 Soarer/Supra (1G-GE), Crown (1G-E some, 1G-GE, 6M-GE some, 2L/2L-T some), 83+85-86 Cressida/MarkII/Chaser (1S, 21R some, 1G-E some, 1G-GE, 2L/2L-T some)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>W5*</td>
<td>-4.091</td>
<td>3.566</td>

<td>2.056</td>
<td>1.384</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>0.861</td>
<td>-</td>
<td>35kg</td>

<td>160</td>
<td>85 Carina/Corona (3T-GTE)</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

= T50 Differences =

from Helene & Matti's page
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Gearbox_T50.html

<i>From: Scott Davis (ssdavis1@coewl.cen.uiuc.edu)

There are three versions of the T-50 that I know of. One is pre 1979, and has a different bolt arrangement between the bellhousing and the gearbox. The 80-82 version has a the same bolt arrangement as the 83+ T-50's, but a different (smaller) output shaft diameter."

From: Claudio

"The tailshaft or gear shifter housing on the '80-87 T-50 transmission is longer than the '70-79 models by about 6". The main reason for this change was to bring the shifter further into the passenger compartment. I remember that in my pre '80s Corollas the shift lever came out from the lower part of the dashboard, compared to my later models where it comes out of the floor, just ahead of the seats.

If you run a car in competition, you may want to use the older transmission with the shorter shifter housing. The lever on these models acts directly on the shifter forks. The newer model's shifter must act through an additional linkage, which adds additional vagueness and is less durable, especially when ramming the lever during clutchless shifting. Most later model shifters ('80-87) with high mileage or hard use will be very loose. In almost all cases this looseness will be due to a collapsed nylon bushing on a ball joint at the end of shift lever in the transmission. This bushing cost less than $2US and is easy to replace. Warm the new component in hot water before popping it on the lever to prevent it from breaking.

The early model shifters don't have this problem because it doesn't use the extra linkage and everything is metal to metal, no bushings. If you are replacing this bushing, you might as well remove the other source of vagueness, the rubber bushing in the shift lever rod. It is located about half way down the shifter where the rod bulges. As the years progressed, from 1970 on, this rubber bushing got bigger and bigger in order to increase isolation (vagueness). With the engine off, try to pull the lever down into any gear with increasing pressure and see how much the lever flexes. This movement is due to the rubber bushing. If you truly want to "experience" your machine, remove the rubber bushing. I must warn you, though, that if you grind a gear badly, you will "feel" the mistake all the way up your arm and hurt along with your machine.

The best way to eliminate the rubber bushing is to: - remove the upper part of the lever with the bushing - weld a hollow tube to the bottom part of the lever - weld a stud to the end of the tube for your shift knob - while you're at it, why not make the lever 1" shorter for shorter throws

P.S. I believe that the only difference between the '80-82 (3TC) and '83-87 (4AG,3AC) transmissions were the bellhousing. You should be able to use a short tailshaft '70-79 (direct linkage) T-50 in '84-87 Corollas by using the bellhousing that came with the car. You would also have to cut the shifter hole further forward on the trans. tunnel and likely mix and match driveshafts halves."</i>

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Automatic Gearbox

2005-05-22T00:00:35Z

Wyldephyre:

= Toyoglide =
Most auto corollas were fitted with the japanese Toyoglide gearbox. Earlier versions were 2 speed, later versions were 3 speed. Autos are wrong, you shouldn't use them.

= Trimatic =
Some later model Aussie Corollas came fitted with a GMH Trimatic gearbox, almost identical to that which was behind six cylinder Holdens such as the EH.

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Clutch

2005-05-21T23:59:47Z

Wyldephyre:

KE Corolla clutches are cable-operated diaphragm-type mechanisms. It doesn't get much more simple than that :) TE Corollas have a hydraulic clutch, and hence a different clutch pedal and fork, as well as a master cylinder.

In my experience, pedal boxes are interchangeable between auto and manual cars of the same series. Auto cars usually also have a hole in the firewall for the clutch cable, but are missing the firewall-mounted locating horn for the cable holder.

Several manufacturers sell heavy duty kits for KE corollas. These usually consist of a heavier pressure plate for increased clamping force onto the flywheel, and a heavier driven plate, sometimes organic material with what looks like string impregnated in it, sometimes a modern metallic compound.

Often when fitting a heavier than stock pressure plate, the cable will stretch in its' sheath, giving poor pedal travel, even with a brand new genuine Toyota cable (trust me!). Rob Dixon has remedied this problem by using another clutch horn rubber, reversed, over the stock circlip adjustment stop. This gives sufficient length to alloy for proper cable adjustment, and doesn't look dodgy either.

It's a good idea to use two or three circlips for adjustment, in case one decides to rattle off while you're driving, never to be found again. I usually pinch a few whenever I go to the wreckers.

During hydro clutch conversions, people usually use TA22 Celica master cylinders, and modify a stock pedal or a Celica pedal.

A spare gearbox input shaft makes a great clutch centering tool.

= Service Specs (KE cable) =

Adjust the distance from pedal pad top surface to floor panel upper surface by means of the pedal support nut and bolt.
RHD pedal height 164mm
LHD pedal height 169mm

To correct pedal play, pull the outer cable at the firewall until resistance is felt (until the release bearing has contacted the diaphragm spring). There should be 5 or 6 grooves AND crests (one groove, one crest equals two) between the circlip and the cable holder on the firewall.

You should have 20-35mm of play in the clutch pedal until it starts to disengage.

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Drivetrain]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Clutch

2005-05-21T23:59:38Z

Wyldephyre:

Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel

2005-05-21T23:57:24Z

Wyldephyre: /* Octane Boosters */

K motors were designed to run on leaded petrol, which had a Research Octane Number (RON) of about 95. Leaded petrol has been outlawed almost everywhere in the world now, because it pollutes the environment and is good for your motor but bad for you. Japan got rid of leaded fuel in 1972.

= Leaded Replacement Petrol =

As of 2002, all petrol pumps in Australia now flow LRP, or Leaded Replacement Petrol. LRP is allegedly governed to be 95 RON.

= Unleaded Petrol =

Is it safe to use ULP in a K motor without valve additive?

<tt>
-- Original Message --

From: Gail Ryan (Gail.Ryan@toyota.com.au)

To: Super Jamie (jamie@superjamie.net)

Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:09 AM

Subject: Product enquiry

Thank you for enquiry that has been forwarded to the Toyota Customer
Relations Department.

With the information you have supplied the 3K-H engine
production year 1966 - 1974. If this vehicle was produced after Feb 1972
you may use unleaded petrol. And there is no modification required.

Regards
Gail Ryan
</tt>

So basially, yes, as long as it was made after 1972. If you like, you can squirt in the little 50c "Valve Master" or similar tube that petrol stations sell, but I doubt it's necessary. Anyone who tries to get you to spend thousands of dollars having hardened valve seats installed in your motor is ripping you off. These cars have an aluminium head, by design, they must have hardened steel valve seats or you'd drive around the block once and your motor would be fucked.

Because of the lesser RON of normal ULP (between 88 and 92) your Corolla may ping if you use this petrol, you may like to retard the timing to about 5-6 degrees if this becomes a real problem. Or, you could use Premium Unleaded (usually 95 RON) or one of the brand name petrols (BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax, etc) which have a RON of 98. Good fuel like this will also make your car slightly more powerful, compared to running a lesser fuel, so you'll get better mileage, or more power if you're a leadfoot :) As higher octane fuel is slower burning, the timing must be advanced to recognise a performance gain. On stock motors, I run 12 degrees with BP Ultimate.

Theoretically, if you're running unleaded petrol, you're supposed to get a catalytic converter installed in your exhaust system. Whatever.

= Other Fuels =

BP and Shell distributors sell a 100 RON fuel, which is usually around $2/Litre. You could also run nice leaded Avgas if you like (and can get your hands on it).

= LPG =

There have been a few Corollas around running on LPG. I'm told this stuff is really good for your motor both in the smooth running and the way it doesn't pollute your oil. There are two basic designs of LPG systems, you want to get the one with what's called an Air Gas Valve Mixer, companies such as Impco and Gas Research make parts like this for performance systems. LPG also has an advertised RON of 110, though this seems to have dropped in recent years. If you can afford the system (tank, lines, converter, mixer, piping) then go for it!

= Octane Boosters =

These formulations raise the RON level of your fuel, and are designed for use in Unleaded. The only one that works more than 1 or 2 RON is one called "104+ Super" which is in a black bottle and about 32 bucks. There is a lesser formula of the same name, in a red bottle, about 25 bucks. I can't see how they would be economically worthwhile if you're considering adding one every tank.

You can also buy drums of Methyl Benzine (also known as Tolulene) from fuel distributors. The going price seems to be about $40/20L. Mix this at a ratio of 1 part Tolulene to 7 parts Petrol. Wear really thick protective gloves and a gasmask, this stuff is really carcinogenic ('''it gives you cancer BIG TIME'''). If you run a richer Tolulene ratio, your motor will go really hard but you'll burn out your valves and seats pretty quick.

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Exhaust

2005-05-21T23:57:13Z

Wyldephyre:

= Manifolds =

There are several different types of stock exhaust manifold:
* Single plane, single outlet
* Dual plane, dual outlet
* Single plane, single outlet, -C emissions

The single plane manifold is usually fitted to KE1x and 2x from the factory, it is restrictive and should be the first thing removed when upgrading the exhaust. The dual plane manifold is quite good, it separates opposing cylinders and joins them under the passenger footwell. This comes factory on most KE3x cars. You may leave this as it is, unless you're hunting for big power. It won't fit on a KE2x, as it hits the steering idler arm, however this could be remedied with custom dual pipes. They're just mild steel. The last type of exhaust manifold is just stupid, it joins the exhaust flow back into the inlet manifold via a vacuum-actuated thing. Get rid of that!

All stock exhaust manifolds connect with the intake manifolds at a bolt triangle. This triangle differs in direction /\ or \/ depending on the year of the car, it seems KE1x only had the "other" way compared to all other models. The purpose of this is to heat up the intake manifold so the fuel atomises better (in theory) and car warms up sooner.

Of course, nothing beats a good set of tuned length extractors. These range in price from free to AU$250 new, with the average for second hand units being AU$50-$100. Some extractor systems have an extension to the stock manifold triangle, most don't. Having the inlet manifold not connected to the exhaust manifold will mean you'll need to add another 5 or so minutes onto your warm-up time.

= Pipe size =

Don't go any bigger than 2", nuff said. There is really no need to go mandrel bent, but if you can afford it or do it yourself, why not? It is said a mandrel bent pipe is equivalent to a press bent pipe quarter of an inch less in size. (ie: 2" press = 1.75" mandrel)

= Mufflers =

Haven't really done alot of research on this one. My KE35 had a resonator and a "turbo" style muffler and it wasn't too noisy. Stewart's KE15 has two resonators and a reverse flow muffler, it is about the same volume, but that's the motor :) My KE25 has a small resonator and some sort of huge can and a 4" droop tip, it sounds very angry, nobody believed it was a stock 3K, now with the 4K I clutch in whenever I see a cop car.

The more you work a K motor, the deeper and angrier they seem to get. I don't know why it is, but these are really nice sounding motors. If your cam is too big, the motor will sound like a bridgeport rotary, seriously!

<hr>
[[Category: Fuel System]]

EFI

2005-05-21T23:56:40Z

Wyldephyre:

<hr>
[http://rollaclub.com Rollaclub]
[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-05-21T23:56:09Z

Wyldephyre: /* See Also */

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel Pump

2005-05-21T23:55:34Z

Wyldephyre:

The stock diaphragm-type mechanical fuel pump provides between 2.8 and 4.5 psi of fuel pressure to the carburettor. It is actuated via a sprung arm, which has its own lobe on the camshaft. There is also supposed to be a spacer between the block and the fuel pump. If you keep breaking pump arms and springs, this could be the reason. Otherwise, the only problem with them is that the spring wears out after prolonged (ie: 25 years) use.

If you have an uprated carb, this may need to change as per specs of the carb. Usually, better carbs get pretty fussy. For example a sidedraft will want between 2.5 and 3 psi, but will need a pump with alot of fuel flow (as they use lots of fuel), which means you'll need a pressure regulator, which will have a return line. However, Corollas don't have a return line into the tank, so just T the fuel return back into the line before the fuel pump.

If you fit an electronic pump, simply make a metal plate to go over the hole in the block where the pump was. To make it look nice, trace a fuel pump gasket to make your plate.

Fuel Miser make rubber diaphragm kits to rebuild stock pumps, they retail for about 90 bucks.

Fuel Miser also make a generic solid state electronic pump which is ideal for stock and performance carb applications, which flows 1.5L/min and supplies 2-3psi of pressure. It retails for about AU$129.

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel Filter

2005-05-21T23:54:56Z

Wyldephyre:

Any boring old plastic $1 fuel filter will do for one of these motors. Place it before the fuel pump. Part number is Z14.

If you want your engine bay to look trick, you can buy a glass fuel filter, usually with chromed or polished fittings, and a replaceable element.

KE10s had a glass fuel filter with a washable element. I'm not sure if these elements are available from Toyota still?

If you have decent carbs and are sucking alot of fuel, you're going to want a decent fuel filter. EFI filter Z110 (I think) has 8mm fittings but flows ALOT and would be great for high performance applications.

<hr>
[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]
[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel

2005-05-21T23:54:17Z

Wyldephyre: /* Unleaded Petrol */

K motors were designed to run on leaded petrol, which had a Research Octane Number (RON) of about 95. Leaded petrol has been outlawed almost everywhere in the world now, because it pollutes the environment and is good for your motor but bad for you. Japan got rid of leaded fuel in 1972.

= Leaded Replacement Petrol =

As of 2002, all petrol pumps in Australia now flow LRP, or Leaded Replacement Petrol. LRP is allegedly governed to be 95 RON.

= Unleaded Petrol =

Is it safe to use ULP in a K motor without valve additive?

<tt>
-- Original Message --

From: Gail Ryan (Gail.Ryan@toyota.com.au)

To: Super Jamie (jamie@superjamie.net)

Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:09 AM

Subject: Product enquiry

Thank you for enquiry that has been forwarded to the Toyota Customer
Relations Department.

With the information you have supplied the 3K-H engine
production year 1966 - 1974. If this vehicle was produced after Feb 1972
you may use unleaded petrol. And there is no modification required.

Regards
Gail Ryan
</tt>

So basially, yes, as long as it was made after 1972. If you like, you can squirt in the little 50c "Valve Master" or similar tube that petrol stations sell, but I doubt it's necessary. Anyone who tries to get you to spend thousands of dollars having hardened valve seats installed in your motor is ripping you off. These cars have an aluminium head, by design, they must have hardened steel valve seats or you'd drive around the block once and your motor would be fucked.

Because of the lesser RON of normal ULP (between 88 and 92) your Corolla may ping if you use this petrol, you may like to retard the timing to about 5-6 degrees if this becomes a real problem. Or, you could use Premium Unleaded (usually 95 RON) or one of the brand name petrols (BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax, etc) which have a RON of 98. Good fuel like this will also make your car slightly more powerful, compared to running a lesser fuel, so you'll get better mileage, or more power if you're a leadfoot :) As higher octane fuel is slower burning, the timing must be advanced to recognise a performance gain. On stock motors, I run 12 degrees with BP Ultimate.

Theoretically, if you're running unleaded petrol, you're supposed to get a catalytic converter installed in your exhaust system. Whatever.

= Other Fuels =

BP and Shell distributors sell a 100 RON fuel, which is usually around $2/Litre. You could also run nice leaded Avgas if you like (and can get your hands on it).

= LPG =

There have been a few Corollas around running on LPG. I'm told this stuff is really good for your motor both in the smooth running and the way it doesn't pollute your oil. There are two basic designs of LPG systems, you want to get the one with what's called an Air Gas Valve Mixer, companies such as Impco and Gas Research make parts like this for performance systems. LPG also has an advertised RON of 110, though this seems to have dropped in recent years. If you can afford the system (tank, lines, converter, mixer, piping) then go for it!

= Octane Boosters =

These formulations raise the RON level of your fuel, and are designed for use in Unleaded. The only one that works more than 1 or 2 RON is one called "104+ Super" which is in a black bottle and about 32 bucks. There is a lesser formula of the same name, in a red bottle, about 25 bucks. I can't see how they would be economically worthwhile if you're considering adding one every tank.

You can also buy drums of Methyl Benzine (also known as Tolulene) from fuel distributors. The going price seems to be about $40/20L. Mix this at a ratio of 1 part Tolulene to 7 parts Petrol. Wear really thick protective gloves and a gasmask, this stuff is really carcinogenic ('''it gives you cancer BIG TIME'''). If you run a richer Tolulene ratio, your motor will go really hard but you'll burn out your valves and seats pretty quick.

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel

2005-05-21T23:53:43Z

Wyldephyre:

K motors were designed to run on leaded petrol, which had a Research Octane Number (RON) of about 95. Leaded petrol has been outlawed almost everywhere in the world now, because it pollutes the environment and is good for your motor but bad for you. Japan got rid of leaded fuel in 1972.

= Leaded Replacement Petrol =

As of 2002, all petrol pumps in Australia now flow LRP, or Leaded Replacement Petrol. LRP is allegedly governed to be 95 RON.

= Unleaded Petrol =

Is it safe to use ULP in a K motor without valve additive?

<tt>
-- Original Message --

From: Gail Ryan (Gail.Ryan@toyota.com.au)
To: Super Jamie (jamie@superjamie.net)
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: Product enquiry

Thank you for enquiry that has been forwarded to the Toyota Customer
Relations Department.

With the information you have supplied the 3K-H engine
production year 1966 - 1974. If this vehicle was produced after Feb 1972
you may use unleaded petrol. And there is no modification required.

Regards
Gail Ryan
</tt>

So basially, yes, as long as it was made after 1972. If you like, you can squirt in the little 50c "Valve Master" or similar tube that petrol stations sell, but I doubt it's necessary. Anyone who tries to get you to spend thousands of dollars having hardened valve seats installed in your motor is ripping you off. These cars have an aluminium head, by design, they must have hardened steel valve seats or you'd drive around the block once and your motor would be fucked.

Because of the lesser RON of normal ULP (between 88 and 92) your Corolla may ping if you use this petrol, you may like to retard the timing to about 5-6 degrees if this becomes a real problem. Or, you could use Premium Unleaded (usually 95 RON) or one of the brand name petrols (BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax, etc) which have a RON of 98. Good fuel like this will also make your car slightly more powerful, compared to running a lesser fuel, so you'll get better mileage, or more power if you're a leadfoot :) As higher octane fuel is slower burning, the timing must be advanced to recognise a performance gain. On stock motors, I run 12 degrees with BP Ultimate.

Theoretically, if you're running unleaded petrol, you're supposed to get a catalytic converter installed in your exhaust system. Whatever.

= Other Fuels =

BP and Shell distributors sell a 100 RON fuel, which is usually around $2/Litre. You could also run nice leaded Avgas if you like (and can get your hands on it).

= LPG =

There have been a few Corollas around running on LPG. I'm told this stuff is really good for your motor both in the smooth running and the way it doesn't pollute your oil. There are two basic designs of LPG systems, you want to get the one with what's called an Air Gas Valve Mixer, companies such as Impco and Gas Research make parts like this for performance systems. LPG also has an advertised RON of 110, though this seems to have dropped in recent years. If you can afford the system (tank, lines, converter, mixer, piping) then go for it!

= Octane Boosters =

These formulations raise the RON level of your fuel, and are designed for use in Unleaded. The only one that works more than 1 or 2 RON is one called "104+ Super" which is in a black bottle and about 32 bucks. There is a lesser formula of the same name, in a red bottle, about 25 bucks. I can't see how they would be economically worthwhile if you're considering adding one every tank.

You can also buy drums of Methyl Benzine (also known as Tolulene) from fuel distributors. The going price seems to be about $40/20L. Mix this at a ratio of 1 part Tolulene to 7 parts Petrol. Wear really thick protective gloves and a gasmask, this stuff is really carcinogenic ('''it gives you cancer BIG TIME'''). If you run a richer Tolulene ratio, your motor will go really hard but you'll burn out your valves and seats pretty quick.

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Exhaust

2005-05-21T23:50:29Z

Wyldephyre:

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-05-21T23:45:51Z

Wyldephyre: /* See Also */

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Fuel System/Fuel Pump

2005-05-21T23:43:36Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Fuel System/Fuel Pump moved to Fuel Pump

#redirect [[Fuel Pump]]

Tech:Fuel System/Fuel Filter

2005-05-21T23:43:30Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Fuel System/Fuel Filter moved to Fuel Filter

#redirect [[Fuel Filter]]

Tech:Fuel System/Fuel

2005-05-21T23:43:15Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Fuel System/Fuel moved to Fuel

#redirect [[Fuel]]

Tech:Fuel System/Exhaust

2005-05-21T23:43:01Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Fuel System/Exhaust moved to Exhaust

#redirect [[Exhaust]]

Tech:Fuel System/EFI

2005-05-21T23:42:48Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Fuel System/EFI moved to EFI

#REDIRECT [[EFI]]

Tech:Fuel System/Carburettor

2005-05-21T23:42:33Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Fuel System/Carburettor moved to Carburettor

#redirect [[Carburettor]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-05-21T23:41:27Z

Wyldephyre: /* See Also */

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
* [[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-05-21T23:41:13Z

Wyldephyre:

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
[[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Fuel Pump

2005-05-21T23:40:53Z

Wyldephyre:

The stock diaphragm-type mechanical fuel pump provides between 2.8 and 4.5 psi of fuel pressure to the carburettor. It is actuated via a sprung arm, which has its own lobe on the camshaft. There is also supposed to be a spacer between the block and the fuel pump. If you keep breaking pump arms and springs, this could be the reason. Otherwise, the only problem with them is that the spring wears out after prolonged (ie: 25 years) use.

If you have an uprated carb, this may need to change as per specs of the carb. Usually, better carbs get pretty fussy. For example a sidedraft will want between 2.5 and 3 psi, but will need a pump with alot of fuel flow (as they use lots of fuel), which means you'll need a pressure regulator, which will have a return line. However, Corollas don't have a return line into the tank, so just T the fuel return back into the line before the fuel pump.

If you fit an electronic pump, simply make a metal plate to go over the hole in the block where the pump was. To make it look nice, trace a fuel pump gasket to make your plate.

Fuel Miser make rubber diaphragm kits to rebuild stock pumps, they retail for about 90 bucks.

Fuel Miser also make a generic solid state electronic pump which is ideal for stock and performance carb applications, which flows 1.5L/min and supplies 2-3psi of pressure. It retails for about $129.

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page:Fuel_System Fuel System]

Back to [http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page Main Page]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

[[Category: Fuel System]]

Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust

2005-05-04T04:34:09Z

Wyldephyre:

Work in progress. Feel Free to contribute.

= Categories of Rust =

== Surface Rust ==

== Medium Rust ==

== Heavy Rust ==

= Rust Prevention =

== Paint jobs ==

== Electronic Rust Prevention ==

= Fixing Rust =

== Using Filler ==

=== Required Tools ===

=== Types of Bog ===

== Fibreglass sheeting ==

== Welding ==

= Rust and Corollas =
TODO: Outline what sort of rust tends to form where in Corollas.

Tech:Engine/Blocks

2005-04-30T07:21:15Z

Wyldephyre: Tech:Engine/Blocks moved to Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks

#REDIRECT [[Tech:Engine/K Series/Blocks]]

Maintenance:Body/Rust

2005-04-30T00:02:12Z

Wyldephyre: Maintenance:Body/Rust moved to Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust

#REDIRECT [[Maintenance:Body/Fixing Rust]]

User:Wyldephyre/Rust Repair Guide

2005-04-29T23:59:42Z

Wyldephyre: User:Wyldephyre/Rust Repair Guide moved to Maintenance:Body/Rust

#REDIRECT [[Maintenance:Body/Rust]]

Alternator

2005-04-29T15:27:48Z

Wyldephyre:

There are two basic types of alternator used on K motors. They are fully interchangeable, as long as you get the accompanying top and bottom brackets.

The Denso manufactured unit is the japanese production alternator. It's a 35A three-phase unit with an external regulator, quite limiting once you start to add goodies that steal your ignition voltage (90/100 headlights, gauges, etc). The later Bosch alternator is a bit better, it supplies 40A and has an internal regulator, so your engine bay looks neater and you don't have to worry about wiring during a transplant. In my experience, you usually find Denso alternators on early models (KE1x, 2x, 3x) and Bosch ones on later models (KE5x, 7x) but this is not always the case.

However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor, use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley)

The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A. It is recommended that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!

Back to [[Main_Page#Electrical | Electrical]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-04-29T15:24:51Z

Wyldephyre: /* Aftermarket */

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

== Fitting aftermarket carburettors ==

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
[[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-04-29T15:23:22Z

Wyldephyre: /* Aftermarket */

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there.

Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
[[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-04-29T15:22:11Z

Wyldephyre:

= Stock Carbys =
All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are:
* 21/24 mm for single carb
* 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D).

Jet sizes are:
* 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs
* 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs.

Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on ([[Dieselling]]), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running ''rich'' on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

= Aftermarket =

One of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around:
* 130 mains
* 170 air jets
* 50 idle
and take it from there. Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include:
* Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200)
* Holley 180
* Weber 32/34 DMTT
* Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration
* Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration.

One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

* Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.
* Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.
* Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc).

I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
[[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-04-29T15:16:23Z

Wyldephyre:

All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are 21/24 mm for single carb, and 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D). Jet sizes are 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs, and 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs. Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on (dieselling), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running RICH on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

Therefore, one of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around 130 mains, 170 air jets, 50 idle and take it from there. Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include: Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200), Holley 180, Weber 32/34 DMTT, Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration, Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration. One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

- Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.

- Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.

- Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc). I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
[[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbonising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Tech:Engine/K Series/Carburettor

2005-04-29T15:16:05Z

Wyldephyre:

All stock units are Aisan-manufactured dual-throat single-choke downdraft-type carburettors.

All throat sizes are 27/27 mm. 3K and 4K venturi diameters are 21/24 mm for single carb, and 20/22 mm for twincarb motors (3K-B, 3K-D). Jet sizes are 0.99/1.75 mm for single carbs, and 0.84/1.40 mm for twincarbs. Throttle is operated via accelerator cable with the progressive secondary throat operating on a mechanical linkage, although there is a weighted vaccuum-style "flapper" butterfly in the secondary throat as well. These carbs flow around 150CFM.

Some carbs have an ignition-operated solenoid switch to prevent run-on (dieselling), I suspect that this came in around 1975 (with the KE30), however some later model cars have been released from the factory with no solenoid? I have found a paragraph in a Toyota workshop manual that suggests this is part of the -C motor emissions system.

These original carbs are quite poor, having very little mixture adjustment, and it would seem they have poor fuel atomization qualities too (whoever heard of a standard carb running RICH on a worked 4K?). There's isn't really much you can do as far as modification is concerned. An open-side design air filter, or Ram-Flo, will help throttle response tremendously compared to the stock snorkel-type filter housing. It has been suggested that jamming the secondary throat "flapper" butterfly open (put a spring on the weight arm or something) could help, but just seems to reduce throttle response at low RPM and make the car more noisy up high, maybe with some slight midrange improvement in power.

Therefore, one of the easiest mods for these cars is to change the carby!

A Weber 32/36 DGV is the most common aftermarket downdraft around. Usually you'll need to jet down a carburettor like this, unless someone has already done the work for you, or you have a fairly modified engine. For a 3K/4K, start at around 130 mains, 170 air jets, 50 idle and take it from there. Basic tuning tips: If the car "stumbles" forward but revs eventually climb, you're running too rich. If the car just cuts and dies, you're running too lean.

Other carbs suitable for these motors include: Weber 32/26 DFV (aka Holley 5200), Holley 180, Weber 32/34 DMTT, Dellorto DHLA40 or Weber DCOE40 in single or twin configuration, Dellorto DHLA45 or Weber DCOE45 in single configuration. One of the best carbs I think you can find for one of these is a Weber 28/36 DCD from a Mk1 GT Ford Cortina. You probably wouldn't want to go much bigger than that. I also have a Nikki 28/32 off a Mazda of some kind that I'd like to try out.

If your non-standard carb has a fuel return line, block it, or T it back into the fuel line before the fuel pump. If you are looking for somewhere to flow the crankcase ventilation tubes, it is "suggested" you obtain a charcol canister and flow the hoses into these to be emissions legal. You could also put the crankcase vents back into the air cleaner as per original, but I don't think the carby is a very good place for engine oil. I suggest you make yourself a catch can, or get a rocker cover breather.

If you end up with a carb that has a different stud pattern, making a mounting plate and cutting gaskets isn't hard, so you could theoretically fit any carb onto the manifold, as long as you taper the throats (or expand the original manifold) to create smooth flow. The adapter plate on my Weber is about 15mm thick.

Other sources of bolt-on carburettors (ie: same stud pattern) for these cars include:

- Celica motors (18R, 2T, 3T) which are still Aisan carbs.

- Datsun L motors, apparently these Hitachi carbs are just as crap as Aisans.

- Mazda Capella and other cars with Mazda piston motors (1300, 626, etc). I have heard mixed reports of these Nikki carbs, some people say they are the bee's knees, some people would rather bolt on a DGV. I have managed to score one, one day I'll kit it and let you know.

= See Also =
[[Maintenance:Engine/Decarbonising | Decarbinising your engine ]]

Back to [[Main_Page#Fuel_System | Fuel System]]

Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Differential Gears

2005-04-29T15:08:42Z

Wyldephyre: /* Ratios */

= Japanese =

Early corollas (KE1x, 2x, 3x) all had banjo-type front-loading differential centers, commonly called the Jap diff. KE1x and some 2x had 5.7" ring gears, other KE2x and 3x had 6". There are two different pinion flanges for these diffs, but the tailshaft unis are the same, so it's no big drama if, for example, you put a 6" KE30 center in your 6" KE25 diff and the pinion is different.

I am pretty sure you can put a 5.7" center into a 6" housing as well. The difference is in the ring gear only, not the carrier.

= Borg Warner =

KE5x and 7x Corollas in Australia had Borg Warner differentials, you can't change these centers as easily as in a Jap diff. KE5x have 6" ring gears, KE70s have 6.38". Apparently some KE1x cars had a Borg-Warner type diff as well, limited info available on these. KE20s have Borg Warner diffs from when they were made in Australia. All KE25s were imported, so they all have Jap diffs.

= Comparision =

So which is stronger? It really depends who you talk to. I personally would prefer a Jap diff, because even if you do destroy a center, it's bloody easy to change. I have seen both types of diff stand up to a decent amount of punishment (traffic light launches, weekend racetrack action, etc) behind a 96kw 4AG in a KE30.

Both factory diffs take 1L of oil. A common trick is to park your car on a downhill slope, so you can put more oil in, useful if you have a worn center or are running thinner oil or are just giving your car a hard time.

= Upgrades (different housing) =

Common upgrades are a Celica/T18/Corona T series 6.7" diff (clutch-type TRD LSD centers available AU$1200 ex-Japan, Cusco and Kaaz also available for more money), R31 Skyline diff (factory 4-pinion clutch-type LSD and disc brakes), 8" Hilux diff (many ratios and LSD available, rumored to be quite heavy), Mitsubishi Scorpion (LSD and good ratios available out of some L300 vans, but rare), even live-axle Datsun 1600 (wagon).

Depending on the car you are putting it into (obviouly KE3x, 5x and 7x are a bit wider than KE1x and 2x) just about any bigger diff you want to use is going to have to be shortened and have leaf mounts welded onto it. If putting into a KE3x, 5x or 7x, then Celica/T18 diffs will fit without shortening, but with the correct mounts welded on. With any of these, you'll obviously need to do something about your tailshaft.

= Limited Slip (without changing housing) =

Yes, there is a limited slip center that bolts into a Corolla housing, they were used in American KP Starlets. Sometimes you can find them in 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, more often than not they are the ridiculously low 2.928. Option1Garage on the Gold Coast import these for around $880. There are also people who "make" a sortof limited slip conversion, one such company in America is Phantom Grip. Tayell Automotive in Bentleigh East (Vic) advertise a similar service for around $250.

= Ratios =

Borg Warner diffs have the ratio written on a plate at the bottom of the diff center, facing the rear of the car.
For Jap diffs, read the plate on your firewall, and relate to the list below. Most are U292 or U282, sometimes U209 or U211, rarely U231.

[http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/AxleCodes.html From Helene & Matti's page]

== First digit: ring gear diameter ==
{|
|----
|A
|138mm
|----
|B
|145mm
|----
|C
|6.25"
|----
|D
|6.62"
|----
|E
|7.1"
|----
|F
|7.5"
|----
|G
|8"
|----
|H
|9"
|----
|J
|9.25"
|----
|K
|9.5"
|----
|L
|10.5"
|----
|M
|12.5"
|----
|N
|13.5"
|----
|P
|14"
|----
|Q
|12"
|----
|R
|162mm
|----
|S
|6.38"
|----
|T
|6.7"
|----
|U
|6"
|----
|V
|10.6"
|----
|W
|15.5"
|----
|X
|142mm
|----
|Y
|158mm
|----
|Z
|202mm
|----
|No ring Gear
|FWD
|}

== Second, third digits: gear ratio ==

{|
|----
|01
|3.30
|----
|02
|3.36
|----
|03
|3.545
|----
|04
|3.556
|----
|05
|3.70
|----
|06
|3.889
|----
|07
|3.90
|----
|08
|4.111
|----
|09
|4.222
|----
|10
|4.375
|----
|11
|4.444
|----
|12
|4.625
|----
|13
|4.79
|----
|14
|4.875
|----
|15
|5.125
|----
|16
|5.286
|----
|17
|5.60
|----
|18
|5.714
|----
|19
|5.833
|----
|20
|6.167
|----
|21
|6.667
|----
|22
|6.78
|----
|23
|6.833
|----
|24
|7.64
|----
|25
|4.556
|----
|26
|5.571
|----
|27
|3.364
|----
|28
|4.30
|----
|29
|4.10
|----
|30
|3.727
|----
|31
|3.909
|----
|32
|6.591 or 4.807
|----
|33
|7.503 or 5.583
|----
|34
|6.781 or 4.786
|----
|35
|7.636 or 5.60
|----
|36
|4.778
|----
|37
|3.583
|----
|38
|3.417
|----
|39
|3.154
|----
|40
|5.375
|----
|41
|3.308
|----
|42
|6.500
|----
|43
|3.550
|----
|44
|3.214
|----
|45
|3.533
|----
|46
|2.928
|----
|47
|3.944
|----
|48
|3.356
|----
|49
|3.729
|----
|50
|3.400
|----
|51
|3.736
|----
|52
|3.722
|----
|53
|3.250
|----
|54
|3.941
|----
|55
|3.333
|----
|56
|2.821
|----
|57
|4.058
|----
|58
|3.238
|----
|59
|3.234
|----
|60
|3.519
|----
|61
|2.724
|----
|62
|2.892
|----
|63
|2.655
|----
|64
|4.312
|----
|65
|3.837
|----
|66
|3.071
|----
|67
|3.526
|----
|68
|3.095
|----
|69
|4.176
|----
|70
|5.857
|----
|71
|2.962
|----
|72
|3.949
|----
|73
|4.285
|----
|}

== Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no ==

== Code pinions LSD ==
{|
|----
|2
|2
|no
|----
|3
|2
|yes
|----
|4
|4
|no
|----
|5
|4
|yes
|----
|}

= Application guide =

Based on a table from [http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/diffSize.html Helene & Matti's page]

== 5.6" (X) ==
Starlet KP61 81-82

== 5.7" (B) ==
Corolla KE1x
Corolla KE20,25,26 70-74

== 6.0" (U) ==
Corolla KE2x (some) KE30 77-79
Starlet KP61 83-84

== 6.25" (C) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74

== 6.38" (S or R) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74
Corolla TE31,37,38,71,72,75 75-82
Corolla AE71,72 83
Tercel AL10 80

== 6.62" (D) ==
Carina TA12 72-73
Corona RT62,72,63,73,83,93 70-72
Corolla TE27 (some) 74

== 6.7" (T) ==
Celica ALL 71-85 (RWD)
Corona RT85,95,104,114,105,115,119,134,32,34,36 72-82
Corolla TE37,51 75-79
Corolla TE27 (some) 74
Corolla AE86 83-87 (?)

Back to [[Main_Page#Drivetrain | Drivetrain]]

Back to [[Main_Page| Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Differential Gears

2005-04-29T15:07:46Z

Wyldephyre: /* Ratios */

= Japanese =

Early corollas (KE1x, 2x, 3x) all had banjo-type front-loading differential centers, commonly called the Jap diff. KE1x and some 2x had 5.7" ring gears, other KE2x and 3x had 6". There are two different pinion flanges for these diffs, but the tailshaft unis are the same, so it's no big drama if, for example, you put a 6" KE30 center in your 6" KE25 diff and the pinion is different.

I am pretty sure you can put a 5.7" center into a 6" housing as well. The difference is in the ring gear only, not the carrier.

= Borg Warner =

KE5x and 7x Corollas in Australia had Borg Warner differentials, you can't change these centers as easily as in a Jap diff. KE5x have 6" ring gears, KE70s have 6.38". Apparently some KE1x cars had a Borg-Warner type diff as well, limited info available on these. KE20s have Borg Warner diffs from when they were made in Australia. All KE25s were imported, so they all have Jap diffs.

= Comparision =

So which is stronger? It really depends who you talk to. I personally would prefer a Jap diff, because even if you do destroy a center, it's bloody easy to change. I have seen both types of diff stand up to a decent amount of punishment (traffic light launches, weekend racetrack action, etc) behind a 96kw 4AG in a KE30.

Both factory diffs take 1L of oil. A common trick is to park your car on a downhill slope, so you can put more oil in, useful if you have a worn center or are running thinner oil or are just giving your car a hard time.

= Upgrades (different housing) =

Common upgrades are a Celica/T18/Corona T series 6.7" diff (clutch-type TRD LSD centers available AU$1200 ex-Japan, Cusco and Kaaz also available for more money), R31 Skyline diff (factory 4-pinion clutch-type LSD and disc brakes), 8" Hilux diff (many ratios and LSD available, rumored to be quite heavy), Mitsubishi Scorpion (LSD and good ratios available out of some L300 vans, but rare), even live-axle Datsun 1600 (wagon).

Depending on the car you are putting it into (obviouly KE3x, 5x and 7x are a bit wider than KE1x and 2x) just about any bigger diff you want to use is going to have to be shortened and have leaf mounts welded onto it. If putting into a KE3x, 5x or 7x, then Celica/T18 diffs will fit without shortening, but with the correct mounts welded on. With any of these, you'll obviously need to do something about your tailshaft.

= Limited Slip (without changing housing) =

Yes, there is a limited slip center that bolts into a Corolla housing, they were used in American KP Starlets. Sometimes you can find them in 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, more often than not they are the ridiculously low 2.928. Option1Garage on the Gold Coast import these for around $880. There are also people who "make" a sortof limited slip conversion, one such company in America is Phantom Grip. Tayell Automotive in Bentleigh East (Vic) advertise a similar service for around $250.

= Ratios =

Borg Warner diffs have the ratio written on a plate at the bottom of the diff center, facing the rear of the car.
For Jap diffs, read the plate on your firewall, and relate to the list below. Most are U292 or U282, sometimes U209 or U211, rarely U231.

[http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/AxleCodes.html From Helene & Matti's page]

First digit: ring gear diameter
{|
|----
|A
|138mm
|----
|B
|145mm
|----
|C
|6.25"
|----
|D
|6.62"
|----
|E
|7.1"
|----
|F
|7.5"
|----
|G
|8"
|----
|H
|9"
|----
|J
|9.25"
|----
|K
|9.5"
|----
|L
|10.5"
|----
|M
|12.5"
|----
|N
|13.5"
|----
|P
|14"
|----
|Q
|12"
|----
|R
|162mm
|----
|S
|6.38"
|----
|T
|6.7"
|----
|U
|6"
|----
|V
|10.6"
|----
|W
|15.5"
|----
|X
|142mm
|----
|Y
|158mm
|----
|Z
|202mm
|----
|No ring Gear
|FWD
|}

Second, third digits: gear ratio

{|
|----
|01
|3.30
|----
|02
|3.36
|----
|03
|3.545
|----
|04
|3.556
|----
|05
|3.70
|----
|06
|3.889
|----
|07
|3.90
|----
|08
|4.111
|----
|09
|4.222
|----
|10
|4.375
|----
|11
|4.444
|----
|12
|4.625
|----
|13
|4.79
|----
|14
|4.875
|----
|15
|5.125
|----
|16
|5.286
|----
|17
|5.60
|----
|18
|5.714
|----
|19
|5.833
|----
|20
|6.167
|----
|21
|6.667
|----
|22
|6.78
|----
|23
|6.833
|----
|24
|7.64
|----
|25
|4.556
|----
|26
|5.571
|----
|27
|3.364
|----
|28
|4.30
|----
|29
|4.10
|----
|30
|3.727
|----
|31
|3.909
|----
|32
|6.591 or 4.807
|----
|33
|7.503 or 5.583
|----
|34
|6.781 or 4.786
|----
|35
|7.636 or 5.60
|----
|36
|4.778
|----
|37
|3.583
|----
|38
|3.417
|----
|39
|3.154
|----
|40
|5.375
|----
|41
|3.308
|----
|42
|6.500
|----
|43
|3.550
|----
|44
|3.214
|----
|45
|3.533
|----
|46
|2.928
|----
|47
|3.944
|----
|48
|3.356
|----
|49
|3.729
|----
|50
|3.400
|----
|51
|3.736
|----
|52
|3.722
|----
|53
|3.250
|----
|54
|3.941
|----
|55
|3.333
|----
|56
|2.821
|----
|57
|4.058
|----
|58
|3.238
|----
|59
|3.234
|----
|60
|3.519
|----
|61
|2.724
|----
|62
|2.892
|----
|63
|2.655
|----
|64
|4.312
|----
|65
|3.837
|----
|66
|3.071
|----
|67
|3.526
|----
|68
|3.095
|----
|69
|4.176
|----
|70
|5.857
|----
|71
|2.962
|----
|72
|3.949
|----
|73
|4.285
|----
|}

Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no

Code pinions LSD
{|
|----
|2
|2
|no
|----
|3
|2
|yes
|----
|4
|4
|no
|----
|5
|4
|yes
|----
|}

= Application guide =

Based on a table from [http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/diffSize.html Helene & Matti's page]

== 5.6" (X) ==
Starlet KP61 81-82

== 5.7" (B) ==
Corolla KE1x
Corolla KE20,25,26 70-74

== 6.0" (U) ==
Corolla KE2x (some) KE30 77-79
Starlet KP61 83-84

== 6.25" (C) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74

== 6.38" (S or R) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74
Corolla TE31,37,38,71,72,75 75-82
Corolla AE71,72 83
Tercel AL10 80

== 6.62" (D) ==
Carina TA12 72-73
Corona RT62,72,63,73,83,93 70-72
Corolla TE27 (some) 74

== 6.7" (T) ==
Celica ALL 71-85 (RWD)
Corona RT85,95,104,114,105,115,119,134,32,34,36 72-82
Corolla TE37,51 75-79
Corolla TE27 (some) 74
Corolla AE86 83-87 (?)

Back to [[Main_Page#Drivetrain | Drivetrain]]

Back to [[Main_Page| Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Differential Gears

2005-04-29T15:04:50Z

Wyldephyre: /* Ratios */

= Japanese =

Early corollas (KE1x, 2x, 3x) all had banjo-type front-loading differential centers, commonly called the Jap diff. KE1x and some 2x had 5.7" ring gears, other KE2x and 3x had 6". There are two different pinion flanges for these diffs, but the tailshaft unis are the same, so it's no big drama if, for example, you put a 6" KE30 center in your 6" KE25 diff and the pinion is different.

I am pretty sure you can put a 5.7" center into a 6" housing as well. The difference is in the ring gear only, not the carrier.

= Borg Warner =

KE5x and 7x Corollas in Australia had Borg Warner differentials, you can't change these centers as easily as in a Jap diff. KE5x have 6" ring gears, KE70s have 6.38". Apparently some KE1x cars had a Borg-Warner type diff as well, limited info available on these. KE20s have Borg Warner diffs from when they were made in Australia. All KE25s were imported, so they all have Jap diffs.

= Comparision =

So which is stronger? It really depends who you talk to. I personally would prefer a Jap diff, because even if you do destroy a center, it's bloody easy to change. I have seen both types of diff stand up to a decent amount of punishment (traffic light launches, weekend racetrack action, etc) behind a 96kw 4AG in a KE30.

Both factory diffs take 1L of oil. A common trick is to park your car on a downhill slope, so you can put more oil in, useful if you have a worn center or are running thinner oil or are just giving your car a hard time.

= Upgrades (different housing) =

Common upgrades are a Celica/T18/Corona T series 6.7" diff (clutch-type TRD LSD centers available AU$1200 ex-Japan, Cusco and Kaaz also available for more money), R31 Skyline diff (factory 4-pinion clutch-type LSD and disc brakes), 8" Hilux diff (many ratios and LSD available, rumored to be quite heavy), Mitsubishi Scorpion (LSD and good ratios available out of some L300 vans, but rare), even live-axle Datsun 1600 (wagon).

Depending on the car you are putting it into (obviouly KE3x, 5x and 7x are a bit wider than KE1x and 2x) just about any bigger diff you want to use is going to have to be shortened and have leaf mounts welded onto it. If putting into a KE3x, 5x or 7x, then Celica/T18 diffs will fit without shortening, but with the correct mounts welded on. With any of these, you'll obviously need to do something about your tailshaft.

= Limited Slip (without changing housing) =

Yes, there is a limited slip center that bolts into a Corolla housing, they were used in American KP Starlets. Sometimes you can find them in 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, more often than not they are the ridiculously low 2.928. Option1Garage on the Gold Coast import these for around $880. There are also people who "make" a sortof limited slip conversion, one such company in America is Phantom Grip. Tayell Automotive in Bentleigh East (Vic) advertise a similar service for around $250.

= Ratios =

Borg Warner diffs have the ratio written on a plate at the bottom of the diff center, facing the rear of the car.
For Jap diffs, read the plate on your firewall, and relate to the list below. Most are U292 or U282, sometimes U209 or U211, rarely U231.

[http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/AxleCodes.html From Helene & Matti's page]

First digit: ring gear diameter
{|
|----
|A
|138mm
|----
|B
|145mm
|----
|C
|6.25"
|----
|D
|6.62"
|----
|E
|7.1"
|----
|F
|7.5"
|----
|G
|8"
|----
|H
|9"
|----
|J
|9.25"
|----
|K
|9.5"
|----
|L
|10.5"
|----
|M
|12.5"
|----
|N
|13.5"
|----
|P
|14"
|----
|Q
|12"
|----
|R
|162mm
|----
|S
|6.38"
|----
|T
|6.7"
|----
|U
|6"
|----
|V
|10.6"
|----
|W
|15.5"
|----
|X
|142mm
|----
|Y
|158mm
|----
|Z
|202mm
|----
|No ring Gear
|FWD
|}

Second, third digits: gear ratio

{|
|----
|01
|3.30
|----
|02
|3.36
|----
|03
|3.545
|----
|04
|3.556
|----
|05
|3.70
|----
|06
|3.889
|----
|07
|3.90
|----
|08
|4.111
|----
|09
|4.222
|----
|10
|4.375
|----
|11
|4.444
|----
|12
|4.625
|----
|13
|4.79
|----
|14
|4.875
|----
|15
|5.125
|----
|16
|5.286
|----
|17
|5.60
|----
|18
|5.714
|----
|19
|5.833
|----
|20
|6.167
|----
|21
|6.667
|----
|22
|6.78
|----
|23
|6.833
|----
|24
|7.64
|----
|25
|4.556
|----
|26
|5.571
|----
|27
|3.364
|----
|28
|4.30
|----
|29
|4.10
|----
|30
|3.727
|----
|31
|3.909
|----
|32
|6.591 or 4.807
|----
|33
|7.503 or 5.583
|----
|34
|6.781 or 4.786
|----
|35
|7.636 or 5.60
|----
|36
|4.778
|----
|37
|3.583
|----
|38
|3.417
|----
|39
|3.154
|----
|40
|5.375
|----
|41
|3.308
|----
|42
|6.500
|----
|43
|3.550
|----
|44
|3.214
|----
|45
|3.533
|----
|46
|2.928
|----
|47
|3.944
|----
|48
|3.356
|----
|49
|3.729
|----
|50
|3.400
|----
|51
|3.736
|----
|52
|3.722
|----
|53
|3.250
|----
|54
|3.941
|----
|55
|3.333
|----
|56
|2.821
|----
|57
|4.058
|----
|58
|3.238
|----
|59
|3.234
|----
|60
|3.519
|----
|61
|2.724
|----
|62
|2.892
|----
|63
|2.655
|----
|64
|4.312
|----
|65
|3.837
|----
|66
|3.071
|----
|67
|3.526
|----
|68
|3.095
|----
|69
|4.176
|----
|70
|5.857
|----
|71
|2.962
|----
|72
|3.949
|----
|73
|4.285
|----
|}

Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no

Code pinions LSD
2 2 no
3 2 yes
4 4 no
5 4 yes

= Application guide =

Based on a table from [http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/diffSize.html Helene & Matti's page]

== 5.6" (X) ==
Starlet KP61 81-82

== 5.7" (B) ==
Corolla KE1x
Corolla KE20,25,26 70-74

== 6.0" (U) ==
Corolla KE2x (some) KE30 77-79
Starlet KP61 83-84

== 6.25" (C) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74

== 6.38" (S or R) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74
Corolla TE31,37,38,71,72,75 75-82
Corolla AE71,72 83
Tercel AL10 80

== 6.62" (D) ==
Carina TA12 72-73
Corona RT62,72,63,73,83,93 70-72
Corolla TE27 (some) 74

== 6.7" (T) ==
Celica ALL 71-85 (RWD)
Corona RT85,95,104,114,105,115,119,134,32,34,36 72-82
Corolla TE37,51 75-79
Corolla TE27 (some) 74
Corolla AE86 83-87 (?)

Back to [[Main_Page#Drivetrain | Drivetrain]]

Back to [[Main_Page| Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Differential Gears

2005-04-29T14:57:41Z

Wyldephyre: /* Ratios */

= Japanese =

Early corollas (KE1x, 2x, 3x) all had banjo-type front-loading differential centers, commonly called the Jap diff. KE1x and some 2x had 5.7" ring gears, other KE2x and 3x had 6". There are two different pinion flanges for these diffs, but the tailshaft unis are the same, so it's no big drama if, for example, you put a 6" KE30 center in your 6" KE25 diff and the pinion is different.

I am pretty sure you can put a 5.7" center into a 6" housing as well. The difference is in the ring gear only, not the carrier.

= Borg Warner =

KE5x and 7x Corollas in Australia had Borg Warner differentials, you can't change these centers as easily as in a Jap diff. KE5x have 6" ring gears, KE70s have 6.38". Apparently some KE1x cars had a Borg-Warner type diff as well, limited info available on these. KE20s have Borg Warner diffs from when they were made in Australia. All KE25s were imported, so they all have Jap diffs.

= Comparision =

So which is stronger? It really depends who you talk to. I personally would prefer a Jap diff, because even if you do destroy a center, it's bloody easy to change. I have seen both types of diff stand up to a decent amount of punishment (traffic light launches, weekend racetrack action, etc) behind a 96kw 4AG in a KE30.

Both factory diffs take 1L of oil. A common trick is to park your car on a downhill slope, so you can put more oil in, useful if you have a worn center or are running thinner oil or are just giving your car a hard time.

= Upgrades (different housing) =

Common upgrades are a Celica/T18/Corona T series 6.7" diff (clutch-type TRD LSD centers available AU$1200 ex-Japan, Cusco and Kaaz also available for more money), R31 Skyline diff (factory 4-pinion clutch-type LSD and disc brakes), 8" Hilux diff (many ratios and LSD available, rumored to be quite heavy), Mitsubishi Scorpion (LSD and good ratios available out of some L300 vans, but rare), even live-axle Datsun 1600 (wagon).

Depending on the car you are putting it into (obviouly KE3x, 5x and 7x are a bit wider than KE1x and 2x) just about any bigger diff you want to use is going to have to be shortened and have leaf mounts welded onto it. If putting into a KE3x, 5x or 7x, then Celica/T18 diffs will fit without shortening, but with the correct mounts welded on. With any of these, you'll obviously need to do something about your tailshaft.

= Limited Slip (without changing housing) =

Yes, there is a limited slip center that bolts into a Corolla housing, they were used in American KP Starlets. Sometimes you can find them in 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, more often than not they are the ridiculously low 2.928. Option1Garage on the Gold Coast import these for around $880. There are also people who "make" a sortof limited slip conversion, one such company in America is Phantom Grip. Tayell Automotive in Bentleigh East (Vic) advertise a similar service for around $250.

= Ratios =

Borg Warner diffs have the ratio written on a plate at the bottom of the diff center, facing the rear of the car.
For Jap diffs, read the plate on your firewall, and relate to the list below. Most are U292 or U282, sometimes U209 or U211, rarely U231.

[http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/AxleCodes.html From Helene & Matti's page]

First digit: ring gear diameter
{|
|
|
|----
|A
|138mm
|----
|B
|145mm
|----
|C
|6.25"
|----
|D
|6.62"
|----
|E
|7.1"
|----
|F
|7.5"
|----
|G
|8"
|----
|H
|9"
|----
|J
|9.25"
|----
|K
|9.5"
|----
|L
|10.5"
|----
|M
|12.5"
|----
|N
|13.5"
|----
|P
|14"
|----
|Q
|12"
|----
|R
|162mm
|----
|S
|6.38"
|----
|T
|6.7"
|----
|U
|6"
|----
|V
|10.6"
|----
|W
|15.5"
|----
|X
|142mm
|----
|Y
|158mm
|----
|Z
|202mm
|----
|No ring Gear
|FWD
|}

Second, third digits: gear ratio

01 3.30
02 3.36
03 3.545
04 3.556
05 3.70
06 3.889
07 3.90
08 4.111
09 4.222
10 4.375
11 4.444
12 4.625
13 4.79
14 4.875
15 5.125
16 5.286
17 5.60
18 5.714
19 5.833
20 6.167
21 6.667
22 6.78
23 6.833
24 7.64
25 4.556
26 5.571
27 3.364
28 4.30
29 4.10
30 3.727
31 3.909
32 6.591 or 4.807
33 7.503 or 5.583
34 6.781 or 4.786
35 7.636 or 5.60
36 4.778
37 3.583
38 3.417
39 3.154
40 5.375
41 3.308
42 6.500
43 3.550
44 3.214
45 3.533
46 2.928
47 3.944
48 3.356
49 3.729
50 3.400
51 3.736
52 3.722
53 3.250
54 3.941
55 3.333
56 2.821
57 4.058
58 3.238
59 3.234
60 3.519
61 2.724
62 2.892
63 2.655
64 4.312
65 3.837
66 3.071
67 3.526
68 3.095
69 4.176
70 5.857
71 2.962
72 3.949
73 4.285

Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no

Code pinions LSD
2 2 no
3 2 yes
4 4 no
5 4 yes

= Application guide =

Based on a table from [http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/diffSize.html Helene & Matti's page]

== 5.6" (X) ==
Starlet KP61 81-82

== 5.7" (B) ==
Corolla KE1x
Corolla KE20,25,26 70-74

== 6.0" (U) ==
Corolla KE2x (some) KE30 77-79
Starlet KP61 83-84

== 6.25" (C) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74

== 6.38" (S or R) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74
Corolla TE31,37,38,71,72,75 75-82
Corolla AE71,72 83
Tercel AL10 80

== 6.62" (D) ==
Carina TA12 72-73
Corona RT62,72,63,73,83,93 70-72
Corolla TE27 (some) 74

== 6.7" (T) ==
Celica ALL 71-85 (RWD)
Corona RT85,95,104,114,105,115,119,134,32,34,36 72-82
Corolla TE37,51 75-79
Corolla TE27 (some) 74
Corolla AE86 83-87 (?)

Back to [[Main_Page#Drivetrain | Drivetrain]]

Back to [[Main_Page| Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]

Differential Gears

2005-04-29T14:49:58Z

Wyldephyre:

= Japanese =

Early corollas (KE1x, 2x, 3x) all had banjo-type front-loading differential centers, commonly called the Jap diff. KE1x and some 2x had 5.7" ring gears, other KE2x and 3x had 6". There are two different pinion flanges for these diffs, but the tailshaft unis are the same, so it's no big drama if, for example, you put a 6" KE30 center in your 6" KE25 diff and the pinion is different.

I am pretty sure you can put a 5.7" center into a 6" housing as well. The difference is in the ring gear only, not the carrier.

= Borg Warner =

KE5x and 7x Corollas in Australia had Borg Warner differentials, you can't change these centers as easily as in a Jap diff. KE5x have 6" ring gears, KE70s have 6.38". Apparently some KE1x cars had a Borg-Warner type diff as well, limited info available on these. KE20s have Borg Warner diffs from when they were made in Australia. All KE25s were imported, so they all have Jap diffs.

= Comparision =

So which is stronger? It really depends who you talk to. I personally would prefer a Jap diff, because even if you do destroy a center, it's bloody easy to change. I have seen both types of diff stand up to a decent amount of punishment (traffic light launches, weekend racetrack action, etc) behind a 96kw 4AG in a KE30.

Both factory diffs take 1L of oil. A common trick is to park your car on a downhill slope, so you can put more oil in, useful if you have a worn center or are running thinner oil or are just giving your car a hard time.

= Upgrades (different housing) =

Common upgrades are a Celica/T18/Corona T series 6.7" diff (clutch-type TRD LSD centers available AU$1200 ex-Japan, Cusco and Kaaz also available for more money), R31 Skyline diff (factory 4-pinion clutch-type LSD and disc brakes), 8" Hilux diff (many ratios and LSD available, rumored to be quite heavy), Mitsubishi Scorpion (LSD and good ratios available out of some L300 vans, but rare), even live-axle Datsun 1600 (wagon).

Depending on the car you are putting it into (obviouly KE3x, 5x and 7x are a bit wider than KE1x and 2x) just about any bigger diff you want to use is going to have to be shortened and have leaf mounts welded onto it. If putting into a KE3x, 5x or 7x, then Celica/T18 diffs will fit without shortening, but with the correct mounts welded on. With any of these, you'll obviously need to do something about your tailshaft.

= Limited Slip (without changing housing) =

Yes, there is a limited slip center that bolts into a Corolla housing, they were used in American KP Starlets. Sometimes you can find them in 4.1 or 4.3 ratio, more often than not they are the ridiculously low 2.928. Option1Garage on the Gold Coast import these for around $880. There are also people who "make" a sortof limited slip conversion, one such company in America is Phantom Grip. Tayell Automotive in Bentleigh East (Vic) advertise a similar service for around $250.

= Ratios =

Borg Warner diffs have the ratio written on a plate at the bottom of the diff center, facing the rear of the car.
For Jap diffs, read the plate on your firewall, and relate to the list below. Most are U292 or U282, sometimes U209 or U211, rarely U231.

[http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/AxleCodes.html From Helene & Matti's page]

First digit: ring gear diameter

A 138mm
B 145mm
C 6.25"
D 6.62"
E 7.1"
F 7.5"
G 8"
H 9"
J 9.25"
K 9.5"
L 10.5"
M 12.5"
N 13.5"
P 14"
Q 12"
R 162mm
S 6.38"
T 6.7"
U 6"
V 10.6"
W 15.5"
X 142mm
Y 158mm
Z 202mm
- no ring gear = FWD

Second, third digits: gear ratio

01 3.30
02 3.36
03 3.545
04 3.556
05 3.70
06 3.889
07 3.90
08 4.111
09 4.222
10 4.375
11 4.444
12 4.625
13 4.79
14 4.875
15 5.125
16 5.286
17 5.60
18 5.714
19 5.833
20 6.167
21 6.667
22 6.78
23 6.833
24 7.64
25 4.556
26 5.571
27 3.364
28 4.30
29 4.10
30 3.727
31 3.909
32 6.591 or 4.807
33 7.503 or 5.583
34 6.781 or 4.786
35 7.636 or 5.60
36 4.778
37 3.583
38 3.417
39 3.154
40 5.375
41 3.308
42 6.500
43 3.550
44 3.214
45 3.533
46 2.928
47 3.944
48 3.356
49 3.729
50 3.400
51 3.736
52 3.722
53 3.250
54 3.941
55 3.333
56 2.821
57 4.058
58 3.238
59 3.234
60 3.519
61 2.724
62 2.892
63 2.655
64 4.312
65 3.837
66 3.071
67 3.526
68 3.095
69 4.176
70 5.857
71 2.962
72 3.949
73 4.285

Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no

Code pinions LSD
2 2 no
3 2 yes
4 4 no
5 4 yes

= Application guide =

Based on a table from [http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/diffSize.html Helene & Matti's page]

== 5.6" (X) ==
Starlet KP61 81-82

== 5.7" (B) ==
Corolla KE1x
Corolla KE20,25,26 70-74

== 6.0" (U) ==
Corolla KE2x (some) KE30 77-79
Starlet KP61 83-84

== 6.25" (C) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74

== 6.38" (S or R) ==
Corolla TE21,27,28 (some) 71-74
Corolla TE31,37,38,71,72,75 75-82
Corolla AE71,72 83
Tercel AL10 80

== 6.62" (D) ==
Carina TA12 72-73
Corona RT62,72,63,73,83,93 70-72
Corolla TE27 (some) 74

== 6.7" (T) ==
Celica ALL 71-85 (RWD)
Corona RT85,95,104,114,105,115,119,134,32,34,36 72-82
Corolla TE37,51 75-79
Corolla TE27 (some) 74
Corolla AE86 83-87 (?)

Back to [[Main_Page#Drivetrain | Drivetrain]]

Back to [[Main_Page| Main Page]]

[http://www.rollaclub.com/ Rollaclub]