Alternator - Revision history

MedicineMan at 04:24, 7 September 2008

2008-09-07T04:24:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:24, 7 September 2008
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	<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/Charging System\|Charging System]]</big>		<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/The Charging System\|The Charging System]]</big>


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	<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/~~More On Regulators~~\|~~More On Regulator~~]]</big>		<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/Charging System\|Charging System]]</big>

MedicineMan at 04:24, 7 September 2008

2008-09-07T04:24:05Z

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-There are two basic types of alternator used on K motors. They are fully interchangeable, as long as you get the accompanying top and bottom brackets.
+<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/Charging System|Charging System]]</big>
-However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor) use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley.
+<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/Principle Of Generation Of Electricity |Principle Of Generation Of Electricity]]</big>
-Back to [[Main_Page | Main Page]]
+<big>[[Tech:Electrical/Alternator/Regulator|Regulator]]</big>
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Irokin at 08:13, 24 May 2006

2006-05-24T08:13:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:13, 24 May 2006
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	The Denso manufactured unit is the japanese production alternator. It's a 35A three-phase unit with an external regulator, quite limiting once you start to add goodies that steal your ignition voltage (90/100 headlights, gauges, etc). The later Bosch alternator is a bit better, it supplies 40A and has an internal regulator, so your engine bay looks neater and you don't have to worry about wiring during a transplant. In my experience, you usually find Denso alternators on early models (KE1x, 2x, 3x) and Bosch ones on later models (KE5x, 7x) but this is not always the case.		The Denso manufactured unit is the japanese production alternator. It's a 35A three-phase unit with an external regulator, quite limiting once you start to add goodies that steal your ignition voltage (90/100 headlights, gauges, etc). The later Bosch alternator is a bit better, it supplies 40A and has an internal regulator, so your engine bay looks neater and you don't have to worry about wiring during a transplant. In my experience, you usually find Denso alternators on early models (KE1x, 2x, 3x) and Bosch ones on later models (KE5x, 7x) but this is not always the case.

	However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor, use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley)		However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor) use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley.

	The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A. It is recommended that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!		The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A. It is recommended that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!

Wyldephyre at 15:27, 29 April 2005

2005-04-29T15:27:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:27, 29 April 2005
Line 5:		Line 5:
	However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor, use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley)		However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor, use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley)

	The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A~~, it~~ is ~~reccomended~~ that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!		The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A. It is recommended that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!


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Super Jamie at 09:17, 26 April 2005

2005-04-26T09:17:53Z

New page

There are two basic types of alternator used on K motors. They are fully interchangeable, as long as you get the accompanying top and bottom brackets.

The Denso manufactured unit is the japanese production alternator. It's a 35A three-phase unit with an external regulator, quite limiting once you start to add goodies that steal your ignition voltage (90/100 headlights, gauges, etc). The later Bosch alternator is a bit better, it supplies 40A and has an internal regulator, so your engine bay looks neater and you don't have to worry about wiring during a transplant. In my experience, you usually find Denso alternators on early models (KE1x, 2x, 3x) and Bosch ones on later models (KE5x, 7x) but this is not always the case.

However, here's the beauty part. Bosch design all their alternators with the same rear housing, just with different front housings to suit the motor they are intended for. So you can buy yourself a 60A Ford Falcon alternator, or an 80A VL Turbo alternator, and rebuild it with a Bosch KE front housing and longer stator bolts, and whack it straight onto your K motor. If you want to underdrive the alternator (say you're bulding a big-rpm race motor, use a Mitsubishi Sigma front pulley)

The charge wire through the wiring loom is also quite small, at most it could supply maybe 30A, it is reccomended that once you start upgrading bits, disconnect the charge wire to the loom and run a thick wire from the B pole of the alternator to the + of the battery. If you do this, and have an alternator with an external regulator, don't forget to wire the applicable regulator terminal back up to the B pole (look at a wiring diagram) or your alternator will overcharge and your battery could explode!

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