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Ke11 Water Pump


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Hey I'm the proud owned of a KE11 3k. water pump is on the way out and need to get a new one before the bearing throws out altogether.

 

What i have noticed is there is different part numbers for 1k 3k and 4k but in the case of the KE11 it shares the part number with the 1k despite being a 3k. the engine is the original 3k and i want to know which one to get. i noticed from pictures that the 3k ke20 onward(Part# WP797) has a longer exposed shaft than the 1k and ke11 3k(Part# WP757). so i'm assuming the only difference is the shaft length, and i would need a different pully if i was fitting the more common and available one, other issue i see is that it may hit the radiator. in that case should i match the water pump to the body or the engine.

 

i would prefer to put the ke20 3k one on if possible as it is about $40 cheaper and much more variety in brands as most other brands have stoped producing it.

 

any help would greatly be appriciated

 

cheers

 

matt

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Gday mate, keen to see your pics.

 

Good thing you asked this, KE10 water pumps can be a pain in the arse.

 

The first difference you spotted is the shaft: the pulley boss has a different offset to the later model pumps. Later pulleys have a similar offset which is fine, you just need to find the right one.

 

The second difference is the PCD of the bolts, as well as the centre locating boss. there are 3 different PCD's, two of the PCD's are easy to find, one variant from the KE30/55 and the other from KE70 pumps. The 3rd PCD i found was on my KE10 pulley. Basically, none of the later plastic fans will fit the KE10 pump. Also the centre spigot was larger.

 

I had to file out the boltholes and the centre spigot hole on my pulley to fit my ke10 pump.

 

A 3rd difference is the heater hose connections. KE10's run both supply and return hoses down the manifold side of the block, but all later pumps appear to run one heater hose down each side. If you change to a later pump, you'll need to cut a hole in the firewall for the heater hose.

 

Also, later pumps run extra crap. The KE10 pump is the best pump, but in future I'll press off the pulley boss and fit a later one, so I can run a plastic fan (old steel ones are nasty)

 

That should at least give you something to look out for, unfortunately I can't tell you exactly what each model difference is.

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Also, later pumps run extra crap. The KE10 pump is the best pump, but in future I'll press off the pulley boss and fit a later one, so I can run a plastic fan (old steel ones are nasty)

 

 

Tom- your right, my original 2 blade steel fan snapped in half soon after i got my ke11.. was soo lucky in didn't punch a whole in the radiator i got recored haha.. let us know when you fit a plastic one / and what one you go with.. i measured up roughly with a ke20 plastic one and wasn;t 100 percent sure it would fit.. so I'm now running a front mount thermo and a temp switched.

 

cheers

 

henry

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KE20 pump would be the next best thing if you can't find the ke1# item. You'll probably need to aquire a later thermostat housing though because that's where the second heater hose runs to. I purchased a 'Racer' brand ke20 water pump to suit a 3k and had no problems when bolting it onto the 5k.

post-8643-0-04337600-1310981800_thumb.jpg

Edited by GJM85
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Thanks for the replies. i'm deciding to stick it out and put the ke1x stuff back on as i don't have any ke2x pulleys at my disposal. later on i might look into the ke2x with a newer fan and less fatigue. however need to go rat more parts off the ke20sl i've got hidden away at the parents before that can happen.

thanks again for the input

 

cheers

matt

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Haha without an ultrasound you'll have no idea about the fatigue. If you have a press, I'd be getting a new ke10 pump, press the pulley boss off a ke70 item and press that onto thus 10 item. Then your ports will be the same but you can run the later plastic fans.

 

Or do what I did and run a thermofan

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