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  1. That link doesn't work for me.. I could probably score you a set at the local wrecker, but they will be old, rusty and probably seized... You'd be better off to rebuild your own. I've just bought these for my KE70, they'll be fitted over the Christmas break. The quality is superb! https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/corolla-ke30-big-brake-kit/ The Dynalytes fit on 13" wheels, the bigger Dynapro calipers need 14".
    1 point
  2. I found a DC motor speed controller on ebay, which controls the electric water pump, & flow of the coolant, from a trickle to full on. It handles a DC load of up to 10 amperes. With the radiator cap removed, you can clearly see the water flow change as the water pump speed is changed. It has a knob on it, which will be useful, as I manually try different flows & resultant temperatures, but also can be controlled by a 0-5V DC voltage, ultimately; from a controller, once a control system & program, is determined. So I started fitting sensors to the coolant system in several spots today. One on the hose leading to the top of the radiator, which will basically measure the temperature of coolant leaving the engine head, & entering the radiator. I already have a return line, at the back of the head, which returns hot coolant to the thermostat housing. I will fit one to that pipework, close to the rear exit from the head. Another will be fitted at the water pump, which is attached to the lower outlet from the raidator. This will allow easy delta T across the radiator, by sunbtracting radiator outlet temperature from radiator entry coolant temperature. The other place, I would like to measure coolant temperature, is inside the block coolant passages. The most convenient way to accomplish that, is to tap a temperature sensor, into a Welsh plug on the side of the block. It's simply a matter of drilling a hole & tapping it, in a Welsh plug, & then replacing an existing one. That will require the manifolds to be removed, to gain access to the three (3) off Welsh plugs on a K Series engine. So almost there, & should be soon starting the fun bit; which will be determining times & control program, to get the very best coolant temperature control. Cheers Banjo
    1 point
  3. Well, bro 'n I went to Bathurst for the V8Supercars, then I ran him up to Coolangatta. The 60series tyres were on the back going up, but we went to Armidale via the flat inland road with a tailwind, so the trip up was 1000km at 6.8L/100. It was a little squirmy in the rear, but I wasn't sure if it was lack of grip or bump steer from more sticky tyres, certainly I expected the 60series to be better than the 70series. We swapped the wheels to big ones on the back and small ones on the front up there, and I went back to Armidale to fetch The Girl from Uni. This was a climb up through the twisties from sea level to a few thousand feet, and then we had a headwind back to Orange. The big tyres on the back dropped the revs, but turned in 7.7L/100km, all on United 95octane. The worst thing was the tyres! The 60series have worse grip than the 70's, so Maxxis are just not as good as cheap Falkens. The increase in understeer was quite noticeable. Still, they'll do while I decide what diff to use, 13" or 14" rims, which tyres to buy.
    1 point
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