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  1. 2 points
    So, it begins...
  2. 2 points
    Hello all, about due for an update i reckon!! We got the car back from Havnadip with the rust repaired and body ready to go! Had the boys there really help us out and to them we owe thanks! With the car being beautiful and straight, we were ready for paint! So over the weeks trailing the car's return, we slowly readied her for the first glimpse of that beautiful Helios red. Lots and lots of prepwork. Masking, sanding, etc etc.. lots of time and effort. Both of which are a bit hard to find considering I'm now in Grade 11 as a student!! (Money, too!) One way or another, with the helpof spectrum paints, the boys from Havnadip, our mates from KTM hobart and a handful of others, she now has a glimpse of what is to be! The insides of the doors, boot and bonnet are now red! Next on the plate is putting them back on, then preparing the whole body for the final spray!!! Very exciting progress! and massive props to my dad, who has done a fantastic job spraying the sprinter. Especially considering how long it has been since he last did it!
  3. 2 points
    Hi guys names damo from the gold coast, have just purchased my first ke 30 corolla, have always been a fan looking forward to cruising soon when i finish a few bits and pieces and get some rego... Few pics of the car ive just purchased from ACT just needs some finishing touches :) Some rear venetians with factory wheels, hide that intercooler back behind a new grill and front bar should be a nice little sleeper...
  4. 2 points
    Hi Ben, Dave's suggestion is excellent, as having the genuine Toyota "Yellow Bible" on the K Series, is probably one of the best investments you'll ever make, if you are going to play with a K series engine. I got one early in my journey, which covers 2K to 5K-C, and it has been invaluable. Most functions of reassembling a K Series engine are straight forward, simple, & logical, but fitting the timing chain, & aligning the crankshaft & camshaft sprockets, is one area, where if you get it wrong, it can prove dissasterous, & cause a lot of frustration, after the engine is assembled & ready to test for the first time. By that time the engine is probably already back in the engine bay, & all hooked up. The alignment is critical, & is covered in the "Yellow Bible" & the Haynes/Gregorys manuals. Essentially the timing is carried out with the engine at TDC on no: 1 & 4 cylinder. The crankshaft sprocket should be fitted first to the crankshaft, with its key fitted. The crankshaft should then be turned slightly, if required, until the "dot" marking on the outer of the crankshaft sprocket is on the lower side of the engine, and is in line with an imaginary line passing through the centre point of both crankshaft & camshaft. (see diagram in pictures below) The camshaft is then rotated, without its sprocket until the locating pin for the sprocket, lines up with inner mark on camshaft retaining plate, which again, are all in line with the imaginary line, passing through the centre points of both camshaft & crankshaft. This is now the critical point. The camshaft & crankshaft cannot be allowed to move, whilst fitting the chain. With both sprockets on a flat surface, off the engine, fit the chain to both sprockets, such that when you pick up both sprockets & chain, that they slide onto the keyway (crankshaft) & locating pin (camshaft) without rotationally moving either sprocket. When fitted, a straight edge, (like a steel ruler) should line up with both outer sprocket marks & the centre points of both crankshaft & camshaft. Actually much simpler than it sounds, when you describe it, but it is important, because if the chain is out one or two links, then the engines valve & distributor timing will be out dramatically. Have a look at the relevant scans from the manuals below, & it should all gell, as "a picture paints a thousand words". P.S. The manuals refer to markings on the chain, which I've never been able to find, because the chains are old & discoloured. Whilst laying the sprockets on a flat surface, with a straight though the centre point of both sprockets, & sprocket markings, I've just put a dab on "white Out" on the relevant link at each end to assist. Good luck, & let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo
  5. 1 point
    Maybe not a corolla but at least it's a Toyota. 1998 Rzn149 Hilux With a snail. Specs: no idea. Literally took a gamble, sold the 33 and snapped it up. I quit my job and have decided to start my own business as a handyman. But of course I couldn't get any old ute. Mechanically it seems to be A1. There are a lot of small things that need to be taken care of to tidy it up a bit but nothing major. Just been Choo chooing it around most of the Arvo with a big grin on my face. It's got so much character. I've never owned a ute before. Don't have any major plans as it will be a work ute. I'm gonna go over it all, bring everything up to my specs then just let it evolve.
  6. 1 point
    Well congrates to you and your better half. If you think driving fast cars is a thrill hold on to your hats there is no thrill ride on the planet that can match being a parent. If you can parent with as much passion as you build cars your daughter is gonna be one lucky girl.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    looking good dude!
  9. 1 point
    Quit my job. Decided to start my own business. So this is going and hopefully making way for a Toyota work vehicle. Hopefully fingers crossed I'll have an update by Sunday
  10. 1 point
    Hey guys, I've been lurking here a while and finally thought it's time to post a proper thread! This story starts on the 3rd of October 2016, a day before my 16th birthday. For around 3 years I was looking for an r32 Skyline until I was convinced by my dad that a Skyline was the last car I'd want on my Ps, I knew he was right so I went on the hunt for a RWD, nice looking car that had that "cool factor" So I searched for a corolla for about a week and this popped up. Started as a full granny spec ke30, everything original and on the 3/10/16 I went to have a look. Instantly fell in love and went home very happy. Came with original papers, service history and warranty! The interior is very clean, however has the generic dash cracks. Only a few small rust spots that will be soon fixed. It also came with a welded diff, pain in the butt, I'm looking for another but finding it hard. Things I've done: - Hayashi TVRs 14x7 -7 - Michelin Energy XM2s - Tacho in clock hole - 1800w Sony subwoofer - 800w Kenwood amp - Sony Xplod 3 way speakers - JVC headunit - New coil - Refurbished the carby - And just a general tune up Things to be done: - Lowered by 2.5in back, 2in front. - Full 2in exhaust with dual 2/2.5in blastpipes - Full respray (paint is very poor) - Duck tail - Front splitter - and generally just tidy it up
  11. 1 point
    That torago wheel does look good, nice score. Does the indicator cancel work? I'm not sure how much blasting a 3k is gonna do, but will at least look shiny on your car:D
  12. 1 point
    Hi Ethan, My vernier says 13.8 mm at that point you have circled. The shaft actually tapers slightly (gets thicker) as it goes towards the swivel ball thing. So generally, that area of the shaft is between 13 - 14mm in dia. Trust this assists. Cheers Banjo
  13. 1 point
    Have you tried the enchanted forest there was a couple of unicorns that had some.....but that was a while ago.
  14. 1 point
    So i may have bought yet another Corolla for the collection.. This makes 3 Ke1x chassis i own now, With a possible 4th and 5th in my sights also So basically, What we have here is a mostly original Ke17 Sprinter. Car hasn't been on the road since 1994 and it's sat outside ever since.. It's currently a rolling shell but it does come with the original matching 3k and an early k50 also Basic run down is it's quite straight, mostly rust free and very complete. Everything interior wise will need replacing besides the passengers door card and seat.. It's had a hit in the rear so the boot won't close, but certainly fixable! The main good bit of the deal is it came with 6x Ke1x chassis's spares.. So now i have about a dozen guards multiple bootlids bumpers etc all stashed away as a "just incase scenario" for any of my cars... This will not be getting worked on at all until the wagon is painted and on the road, It's in storage now at my friends house until such time
  15. 1 point
    Haha too high for mower blades #antistance
  16. 1 point
    While you're at it, put some mower blades on the bottom of it
  17. 1 point
    Just run it on 2 stroke fuel :)
  18. 1 point
    A big Hello to everyone I'm new on here and just purcahsed a old time favourite (what a privlidge) 1972 Toyota Crorolla Ke25 starting to restore it I'm probably going to go down the te27 bodystyle route, with a turbo engine of some sort any suggestions will be great preferably toyota turbo engine. Body will be fully stripped media blasted, welded cleaned up and rust proofed sealed.
  19. 1 point
    Compression gone go shit again? Shame, but if its running then your bores and bearing surfaces should be in good shape, so minimal work required:) Great looking car, those over fenders are cool as.
  20. 1 point
    Altezzaclub is quite correct in saying that your result is normal, with a static advance setting of 8 deg, but when you plug the vacuum hose back on, it rises to 20 deg dynamic advance. At 900 rpm idle the bob weights should be tucked up against their stops, held there by the springs, and having absolutely no effect at all. The 20 deg of "dynamic" advance you are seeing with the timing light is the sum of the static advance plus the 12 deg advance contributed by the vacuum actuator. You are never going to detonate at 20 deg advance when there is no load at idle, when the mixture is very lean. Don't forget that a lean mixture requires a lot more advanced spark, as it is harder to ignite, than a rich, dense combustion mixture. The vacuum advance existing in your inlet manifold has little or no relationship to the revs of the motor. It is purely a simple way of practically feeding back to the ignition system, what the load is on the engine is. You would not be surprised to know that when you have got your car into top gear, driving on a flat road at say 60-80 klms per hour, with no passengers, & no load of cement bags in the boot, you are probably only using/need about 30 -40% of the power your engine is capable of. Your foot is not flat to the floor, and the mixture is reasonably lean, and you need all the advance you can get to make the engine run as efficiently under those conditions. In years gone by it was popular to fit aftermarket vacuum gauges to your dash. (I had one) I think there were a couple of car brands that fitted a gauge in the dash, which they called an economiser. It didin't have units on it. It had a green & red zones at each end, and a zone in the middle called the economiser zone, where you tried to keep the needle whilst you drove. It stopped you from stamping on the accelerator, which usually shot the gauge to the end. The most important thing, about ignition advance is to ensure that the components in the engine that create advance & retard are working as intended. Remember our Rollas are around 40 years "olde" & getting tired. Things do wear out & break, and forgotten about, like those little bob weights that hide in the bowels of the distributor & rarely see the light of day, let alone get oiled. I've pulled some distributors out of Rollas, & after removing the contact plate been faced with weights rusted and pivots worn so badly they didn't have a hope in hell of ever performing as they were intended. When I've cleaned them up, oiled them & put it all back together, the owners have indicated it was like a whole new car. Vacuum advance units do fail, but are very easy to test. ( A piece of plastic tube & your mouth ) Hope that helps.
  21. 1 point
    You shouldn't get detonation, the motor is doing no work at idle. Then when you open the throttle to get it to do some work the vacuum collapses and the ignition retards. You will hear any detonation or pinking anyway, its not like running a turbo, and it will be at wide-open throttle with the cylinders as full as possible and the ignition running purely on the centrifugal weights. More modern carbs run with ported vac, a port that goes into the airflow right at the throttle plate closing spot, so it gets cut off or very reduced at idle. It still retards as you open the throttle, but doesn't carry so much vac advance at idle. It is more active at high airflow speeds. You can run both ports at once on a duel diaphram distributor. What fuel do you use?? I just United's 95 all the time, modified 4K, 4AGE with cams and the 3SGE in the Altezza all run on it. You can run it w/o the vac at all, its just an anti-pollution thing. All our Corollas probably take up 20 modern cars with thier clean exhausts, so an extra bit of nitrogen oxides won't matter!
  22. 1 point
    The effect on performance of the vacuum advance on your distributor, is quite different, when the vacuum pickup point is on the manifold (manifold advance) as opposed to connected to the carburetor point (call ported vacuum). When connected to the carby, the vacuum point is basically blocked off by the butterfly at idle. That is probably why your car "revs so freely". As Altezzaclub has mentioned above, the K series engines will accept a large amount of advance at standard compression ratios, without detonation & pinging. I've been running "manifold advance" vacuum into a transducer which produces a 0-5Vdc signal "mapped" to a programmable ignition, and I regularly obtain 45 deg of advance, without a sight nor sound of a ping. Never under estimate the difference even a small change in ignition timing can make to the overall performance of your normally aspirated K engine, as this video clearly demonstrates. All good fun. Cheers Banjo
  23. 1 point
    Check the points gap & timing just in case, a cold engine does give the ignition a hard time. If it is idling fine when its hot, then is a choke problem. The cable should open the throttle first, then close the flap over. You might find you only noticed the flap closing, and someone has adjusted the choke idle screw & inadvertently made it useless so it just closes the flap and doesn't raise the idle. Take a look.
  24. 1 point
    We all talk about static timing as being 8 or 10 or 12 deg BTC, as being important, but really it is only an initial "static" setting, that allows us to get the car started. The most important ignition setting is the dynamic advance setting, which is the advance whilst the car is running, under various load conditions. However, few of us ever get to check the dynamic setting. We just assume it gets there. The maximum dynamic setting, is the sum/total of the static setting (rotating the distributor at rest until the points just open) plus the maximum centrifugal advance, which is the function of the little "bob weights" under the dizzy plate, that don't get looked at often. If you do ever pull your dizzy to bits one day, you will notice that the little bob weights, or the adjacent plate, have a little number stamped on them like 14 or 18 or 21 or something similar. This number is the maximum number of degrees of advance, those particular centrifrugal bob weights & springs can provide, Some people play with these weights, end stops & springs, to increase the maximum advance possible. You will also notice that the two little springs are different, one being "lighter" than the other. This is so one bob weigh moves out first, The other heavier one then adds to it, as revs increase, to provide a 2 stage advance curve. So lets say your static advance ignition setting is 12 deg., & lets say the bob weight/s have 14 stamped on it. The total advance possible is therefore 26 deg. The maximum advance in our little K series engines is all achieved by the time the revs have reached say 2500 - 3000 rpm. So the most important thing to determine, to my mind, is to ensure that when your engine is running at 3000+ rpm, that the advance reaches this possible maximum. So what about this vacuum advance you/we are discussing here. As vacuum decreases, with the engine under load, with W.O.T. (wide open throttle) the vacuum actuator on your dizzy, actually retards the advance. This is because under load, the engine "sucks" harder, and with greater density, it ignites easier,earlier, (not as lean), so not as much advance is needed. That's it in a nutshell, but there are plenty of places on the net where you can read about that in more detail. So this is why when you set your static advance setting, you always take off the vacuum line & block it, so it has no effect, on the setting. So once you get your motor running, you should set the dynamic advance to the maximum recommended possible. As we can't change the bob weights action, without modifying them, the maximum achievable is still adjusted by rotating the dizzy, with the clamp just nipped slightly. However this is done at 3000+ rpm, rather than at idling. The reason this method is not used widely, is that you need a timing light to check that you are achieving say 26 deg, as in the example above. However, a timing light is a very good addition to your toolbox, if you are serious about getting the most out of your K series motor. The problem with this technique is that to read 26 deg of advance on the timing chain cover is difficult, as the markings usually only go to 20 deg BTDC. Now you can guess where say 26 deg is, or pre-mark it on the case, or get a adhesive degree strip, to stick on the edge of your crankshaft pully, but it must be a strip designed for that precise dia. pulley. The timing light manufacturers have overcome this issue, by adding a knob you can turn to retard the flash, until it lines up with TDC instead of say 26 deg. The 26 deg, is then read out on a little LED screen. From your description, it sounds like the current p/u point on the inlet manifold is causing your problems, or maybe the vacuum actuator on the dizzy is faulty. Try the sucking on a plastic tube connected to the vacuum actuator, & see if the dizzy contacts plate moves. You might also have an air leak on the inlet system somewhere that is causing the engine to idle fast. The first bob weight usually starts to move around 1200 - 1500 rpm. The idle must be down around 800-1000 rpm, to ensure that the bob weights are not advancing the timing at idle. The possibility is that a bob weight spring has fallen off and there is nothing holding back one or both of the bob weights. Let us know what you find. Sounds like your teacher is doing well, and created a great interest in you to question why things work as they do. Cheers Banjo
  25. 1 point
    What you is quite correct. Cars used to run no vacuum advance at all, it was added as an anti-pollution device in the 70s. The first ones came off the inlet manifold like yours, and the timing was set as you did. Take the vac line off and block it. (or the massive air leak into the inlet will lean out the mixture and the motor dies) Then set to 8deg advance, put the vac line back on and adjust the idle speed on the carb to suit. So you have it idling at 25deg- this is needed as a lean mixture is difficult to burn so you start the fire earlier. THAT is why there is a vac advance- you boot the car to accelerate and the vacuum collapses from the open throttle and the ignition retards. Then when you have speed up you back off the throttle, lean the motor out and the vacuum advances to burn the mixture thoroughly. If it is too advanced and you get pinking as you boot it, it won't be the vac advance, it has no affect when the throttle is open. The weights do the rest of the advance curve, and the usual way to find optimum advance was to floor the accelerator and listen for pinking. If there was none you advanced it a few degrees and did it again. You timed the acceleration with a stopwatch and picked the fastest time, as over-advancing will slow it down overall. Finally, 4Ks will take massive advance, I had one of mine idling at 18deg without vac and it drove fine.
  26. 1 point
    these engines have a serious mean hard 100 degree turn for air/fuel mixture exiting the carb into the manifold, and it really does cause a lot of fuel condensation and therefore an almost incombustible mixture scenario when very cold. That along with a slightly weak spark due to old high tensions leads is enough to cause missfires that are complete show stoppers at cold idle. When the thing is running, and hot, take it out for a gentle spin, and note the colour of the spark plugs insulators. if they are nice and brown, then id say the idle circuit is supplying enough fuel. if they are white, there is definitely an idle circuit issue. If they are black, and sooty, u have a typical rich k engine setup haha. Also, there are plenty of places there can be vacuum leaks that are not audible or testable form outside the carb, but i usually find a vacuum leak on these motors just makes them idle faster, possibly because they only run when set up ʞ©$ɟing rich to begin with. If u find no leaks, check these places: PCV valve, just replace it now with the OEM replacement and don't ask questions, your engine will thank you for it regardless of weather or not it affects the idle The hot idle compensator valve, which lets air in during hot idle to counter for hot fuel bowl evaporation enrichment through the bowl vents into the airflow the power piston valve circuit, including the breather and cylinder walls, which can be so worn out it affects the circuits ability to pull the piston up and causes an overly rich mixture on the primary throat during off idle operation, with this situation u will have poor idle and black plugs with no way to tell, when this happens u put the carby in the bin. and finally, The rubber diaphragm in the brake booster, which almost always shits itself due to brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder into the brake booster drum and melts the rubber, this happens constantly because people dot realise the importance of flushing their brakes hydraulics properly.
  27. 1 point
    You using the choke? Does it have a manual choke cable in the car? Little doovy on the dash that you pull out. If it does check its operation. My old 4kc liked a bit of choke for the first ~30secs.
  28. 1 point
    yeah, as long as it is 4mm 7 core you should be fine. Trailer plug should take the load fine!
  29. 1 point
    Is the manifold for the CBR carbs or have you fitted them already and want to change? How does the motor run now? The carbs by themselves won't make much difference, but they will help with a better cam & exhaust system, and some head work.
  30. 1 point
    A multimetre is a great investment for diagnosis
  31. 1 point
    Be good to watch the progress on this one!
  32. 1 point
    The R in GT40R means you need to use a ballast resistor
  33. 1 point
    just checking the rotor against the terminal in the dizzy isnt good enough. that for me, has been the difference between the thing starting, or not starting at all. Test for spark, by turnign ignition on, , loosen the distributor timing nut and spin the dizzy housing with a spark plug connected directly to the coil HV outlet, and firmly grounded against the chassis first, and then if u see spark then test it grounded against the engine. If you see spark, say EUREKA, and then set the timing by putting cylinder 1 at 10 degrees before TDC ( as seen on the pulley marking), and make sure its after the intake stroke, by visually checking the valve rockers then slowly turn the dizzy until it sparks and stop right there and tighten the nut. u may need to do it twice. If u see a god spark then it means there isnt enough power when the car is cranking, as others have suggested. If u don't see a spark, check that u are getting 12 V at the coil. if not, fix that. its possible. If u saw spark when grounded to the chassis but not when grounded to the engine or viseversa, check the earth straps from engine to chassis. Copper Electrical contacts can go from 100% working to 0% just from one heat cycle. all this is based on your suggestion that there is NO or very LITTLE spark
  34. 1 point
    So, was it running OK when you bought it and before you did the carb conversion?? Started easily and ran smoothly?? Have you changed the ignition system? If it is stock, check that you have 12V at the coil while cranking. Remember they have two ignition circuits to power the coil, one that by-passes the ballast resistor for starting and another through the ballasr for running. Sometimes one will work and the other not. The ballasts do break down. Anyway, after that check the points gap. If the points are burned with a volcano on one side and a hollow on the other, set the gap without going over the volcano with the feeler gauges. Just use the tips. . plenty of people have made them too wide by doing that. If you alter them, check the timing again. Your manual method is fine, but make sure you know which way the rotor turns. No good setting the points timing on the following shoulder instead of the advancing shoulder.. You can check the coil while you're in there by having the points open and sticking a screwdriver across them. The points should spark and the coil fire. If the coil doesn't, make sure there is 12V at the points. If there is, then the condensor is toast, as that is where the electricity for the coil is "stored". A leaking condensor will not store enough electricity to collapse the coil field fast enough, and give a weak spark. So, points set, timing set, coil sparking.. it should start with the right fuel/air ratio.
  35. 1 point
    I personally wouldn't introduced a new igniton system till you have got the original diagnosed. what is the battery voltage, static and cranking? I am thinking the alternator wiring plug may have a poor connection after fitting headers
  36. 1 point
    I thought I got this one from RockAuto but I've looked back 4 years and can't find an order for it. I know welders, if I can't find a shop that does cams regularly. I'd have to get something for a new pin and weld it in place and fill in the gap..it's really not much. Maybe I'll win that new welding machine from Finnegan's Garage on YouTube. As many K motors there are still in the world it seems someone would have done an aftermarket or there would be stock versions stacked in somebody's warehouse. Sigh....I just had to get hooked on an obscure little car that never became a collector's item. I could build any year VW beetle from scratch out of catalogs. We just did a total ground up resto on a 65 Mustang....3/4's of the original body is all that's left every other piece, nut, bolt, and washer is brand new...you can get ANY part brand new. 69 Chevelle? Yep. Whatever you want. Plus custom parts, upgrades, conversion kits.................arrrgggghhhhh. But where's the fun in that?
  37. 1 point
    You guys think those years have passed quickly. Wait until your children come along. They are the biggest vacuums of your time you will ever encounter. and you should enjoy every minute of it.
  38. 1 point
    I'm certainly trying to temper my excitement for the moment! I ran it for a good 15 minutes, until all the smoke cleared and I began to worry that the neighbours might not be as pleased as I was, that late on a school night. I'll reset the mixture screws this evening and "turn it around" in the street, then check the plugs and re-test. If it's good I'll pledge to honour my bets/clamp the battery/go crusiing in <month! So grateful for all of your input.
  39. 1 point
    2007 was my peak ke70 building days. Dropping into your house Matt with the steep driveway, buying all your old parts every few weeks when i got paid. That is 10yrs ago now. Sold ke70 early in 2011, over 6yrs ago.....
  40. 1 point
    Yeah true, I've noticed in the past, presumably the engine was in good running order before stored, when I've used a motor that has been sitting a while with poor compression, when being used again, rust deposits from valve seats and any gunk contained in the piston ring grooves (causing the rings not to expand) eventually blow their way out which certainly give better results down the track, cheers!
  41. 1 point
    So just before we get too excited, the oil would have bumped up the compression as it made a better seal. I'd say run it for 10mins and test again. If the oil goes away and compression drops back to where it was......well you are still up for rings! Actually i remember my 4age now. I tested the compression straight after picking it up from littleredspirits garage, terrible results, worse than yours I reckon. I then put it on an old tyre, used some PVC piping as an exhaust, connected up an ECU and a fuel pump and started it, thats when the compression came good. Put the engine in the car, stated it again and blew the headgasket, and it was the worst condition headgasket i have ever seen, changed the gasket and happy days for 4yrs.
  42. 1 point
    No need to pull the motor down with those results, the more you drive it the better it will become!
  43. 1 point
    I fucking love this. Ill happily take your $5 knowing that you are the real winner though. So there was the matter of a cruise?
  44. 1 point
    You guys sound all grown up. Houses children jobs. Thats where I was 20 ish years ago. Its the circle of life here I am back working on cars again. This time they aren't even mine.
  45. 1 point
    I've got a new generation of rollaclub coming too ;) Sept 30 for us. Car looks great mate, one of these days ill have another go at aftermarket ecu in the beema, and ill be sure to come around and pick your brain. I just put some narva +50 bulbs in my wifes Forester, certainly a nice improvement for the money.
  46. 1 point
    I'm all for the 'ol oil and crank. It might come good, it might not, but its easy to do and it worked for Dave. Its a Toyota after all. This kind of crap is why we love em. $5 says it comes good, the motor maybe sat for years by the sounds... Oh and I have a second comp tester if you want to verify.
  47. 1 point
    The first wave of mass communication on the internet was all based off of real life, a real world translation of life onto the internet. As such it was long format, and we celebrated the technology by using it well and appreciating it, as we didn't have it before. We stockpiled information. Never before could we find and connect with other enthusiasts as easily, so there was a long honeymoon period. Now our generation is older, and we are now in the minority of users of the internet as the younger generation just lives on their phones. They have grown up taking for granted the connectivity provided by the devices and also they have grown up in need of instant gratification. Forums dont provide this, social media does. Forums demand you are enough of a human to fit in, work with others, and make detailed explanations to help others out. Facebook is the absolute opposite. Time and time again I see misrepresented sales, bs claims, incorrect info, basically what I would delete off RC most likely, but its protected on facebook as the mods dont care. WHy would they, in 24 hours nobody will ever find the posts again. You can write any bs, ask any question without so much as a precursory search first, and just generally all feed into and accept each others frustratingly short spans of attention. They just dont know better, and will always suffer next to a more patient approach. Fuck Zuccherberg.
  48. 1 point
    Hi Kevin, The whole body of the car is the return path for all accessories to the negative terminal of the battery. Because the fog lamps & front turn indicators are on the bumper bar, both turn & fog lights will have an earth wire going back to the body, which I'm guessing is not grounded at all, or is rusty. When this earth is not present, both lights will try to work at the same time in series, which means each has 6 volts across it, which makes them both dim, & the turn indicators flash at a slow rate, because there is less current flowing through the turn indicators flasher unit. Do as Jon has suggested, & run a wire from the negative battery terminal to the turn indicators & the fog light earth wires, which could be a white wire. I'm guessing that the where the bumper bar bracket bolts onto the chassis is very rusty also. Let us know if that fixes it. Cheers Banjo
  49. 1 point
    If you follow the wires from the fog lights one of them will go to a grounding bolt (or possibly front turning lights ground wire which will then go to a grounding bolt) Remove the bolt, clean the contact faces and re-bolt it. I'm not familiar with KE30s but the wiring diagram shows an earth for each front turning light.
  50. 1 point
    Rightio, bit of an update to do. The sprinter isn't seeing as much work as I'd like it to be, but regardless, at least it has seen SOME. I was happy to score my new speakers and head unit for Christmas. Not much better than getting car stuff for chrissy ;) Supercheap also credited me the difference when they went on sale, so I was lucky enough to score myself a few basic tools :) Had a good day working on it with my dad; Looking pretty good from here. Much of the bodywork is done, with only a few bits and pieces remaining. A few days later I got a mate of mine into working on it with me, after we'dgone for a motorbike ride. He helped me remove the windscreens... and; We did know that there was a little bit of rust on the front left corner of the windshield, but we didn't know to what extent. Unfortunately, even after our cleaning up, this is a shop job. We can't do it :/ So! Money! Yeah! We've rang the same bloke that helped with my doors, and in a few weeks we'll be able to take the car in to have the rust repaired. Slow progress, but progress nonetheless. I looks like from this point I will be borrowing funds off my dad and work my arse off to pay it back ao we can just get the car done. I think we're both keen to get that thing out of the garage.