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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/20/17 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    10.2 @ 128 1.45 60ft. Best 60ft of 1.42 We set up the Caltacs when we got there with me in the car, didn't have to touch them the car went dead straight and launched hard all night. It unsetttled a few times when i hit third so had to get off it, thinking i need a decent size water catch can. Did 5 runs 4 of them were 10s. Need to get all ihra teched now, add a bit of boost and run a 9
  2. 1 point
    Just realised I don't have any photos of the TRD head on here. Valves are 38mm and 30mm head size. Ports are 38.5mm by 36mm on inlet and 30mm by 27mm on exhaust.
  3. 1 point
    Hey all, Figured I'd throw up a build thread for this with the hopes it'll keep me motivated and on track (lol) Bought this back in Jul'15 and drove it back home from QLD. I'll be honest, it was a pretty scary drive! The suspension was set up for track use with oversized sway bars, strut & piller supports and the dampers set to the hardest setting. Thing was skittish a.f on the rural QLD roads, even at lower speeds, and I found myself bounced into the opposing lane several times and once into the path of a truck. Needless to say that, in conjunction with the miserable weather and poor visibility at the time, I found myself holding the wheel with a death grip and frayed nerves! Then I hit a bloody wombat! The fat little bastard tore out the rear sway bay on his way though, thankfully not damaging the mounts, and I found myself with the swaybar digging into the pavement. However, with a little bit of bush ingenuity and the handy help of the edge of the bitumen, I managed to bend it back up outta the way until I could remove it at the next service station. Funnily enough, removing the bar actually did wonders for the stability of the car and my peace of mind with the remaining 30hr drive being much less stressful! I'll Split this into 2 parts, how I got it and my plans ahead.. So here's a snapshot from when I picked it up: '84 ADM AE86 BODY - Letterbox Levin Front End - Carbon Fibre Bonnet - Front bar modified for the intercooler - Rolled front guards - Screwed on +40mm Rear Over Fenders DRIVETRAIN - 4AGTE - Deburred and polished 4AGZE Block - ARP Main Studs & Head Bolts - ARP Rod Bolts - Cometic Head Gasket - Motec ECU - High Mount Turbo - Front Mount Intercooler - Oil Filter Relocation Kit - Dual Coilpacks - T50 gearbox - T-Series disk 1.5way Kaaz LSD - Running ~18psi Boost SUSPENSION - Shockworks Coilovers - Front Strut Brace - Front Fender Brace - Rear Strut Brace - Oversized Rear Swaybar - Oversized Front Swaybar - Adjustable Panhard Rod - Modified cross member to include camber adjustment - Upgraded steering components and urethane bushes BRAKES - Disk rear end - braided front brake lines - Wilwood oversized calipers - Drilled and slotted rotors INTERIOR - Recaro Bucket Seat - Complete Plastics (Brown) - Battery Relocated to Boot - Standard cracked dash with mat - Electronic Gauges WHEELS - Rota 15x8 0 Front - Rota 15x9 -20 Rear - Spare pair Rota 15x9 -10 Here's some pictures from the previous owner: And this is the day I picked her up As for Current/Future Plans: BODY - Zenki Trueno Front End - Shaved boot lock - Shaved antenna hole - Blended +40mm Rear Over Fenders DRIVETRAIN - Tidy up the engine bay, change out and re-path some of the hoses/ Wiring - W55 Gearbox & short Shifter - Soft Button Clutch to suit SUSPENSION - Shockworks Coilovers - Standard Rear Swaybar - Standard Front Swaybar - Replace Cross Member, Steering rack and Steering column with components for power steering conversion. - Replace any worn bushes/ components as needed INTERIOR - New Carpet - Replace the Dash - Rewire and Re position Electronic Gauges Will Upload some current pics in the near future, stay tuned!
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    Have you considered what that will do to the function of the head light?
  7. 1 point
    My current setup uses 'single pulse' trigger from an electronic dizzy. So the ecu knows when a spark event is happening, it just doesn't know on what cylinder. Hence why I still need to use the top half of the dizzy to distribute spark. Additionally the injectors need to be fired in a bank. With the custom cas I built, it has a 'dual pulse' on cylinder 1 and singles on the other 3 so the ecu will now know which cylinder is actually firing. Doing this you can run quad coils like this as well as sequential injection.... firing the injectors individually as the fuel is required essentially.
  8. 1 point
    Facebook is easy. You just ask the same question over and over.
  9. 1 point
    Gday fellas, I'm new to this forum and need help. From what ive seen so far there is alot of good info and good people on here. Basicly just wanting a quick run down on where to post questions and where to find answers to questions other people have asked before. I got my self a 1976 ke30 4 door yesterday and have big plans. Thanks guys
  10. 1 point
    Have done a little more research & have come up with the Toyota CoP P/N 90919-02240, which was fitted to the Toyota 1NZFE & 2NZFE engines on the Echo & Yaris cars. I chose these CoPs, as they have built in ignitors, which are both dumb & smart at the same time. The dwell will continue, just as long as the trigger signal is present from the ECU, but will also produce a minimum dwell, irrespective of how short the trigger signal is. These CoPs have a single bolt hole which normally bolts up flush with the Echo / Yaris camshaft cover. My daughter has an 2004 Echo with a 1NZFE engine, so I "borrowed" a CoP from her car this morning, and set it up on a 4K head on the bench. There are several spare 10mm threaded bolt holes on the rocker cover, on the spark plug side, which could anchor a simple, solid, single, mounting plate, to hold all four CoPs. It would require just one bend in the mounting plate. I'll fashion a mounting plate from a piece of then thinner aluminium, & dummy it all up on the bench, to make sure it all works & fits fine. One of the advantages of this arrangement, besides doing away with spark plug leads, distributor cap, and existing coil, is that propped up in the air like that, they will not overheat, as there will plenty of air flow over them. Apparently, from my reading on the net, overheating CoPs, tucked under plastic covers, (which often restricts air flow), can result in damaged or failed CoP coils & ignitors. Although CoPs can be expensive, the 90919-02240 ones are relatively cheap. I've even seen them new on ebay for less than $ 30.00 ea. I'll post a picture here, once I dummy it all up. Cheers Banjo As explained in the section above all of the four will fire for as long as the duration of the activation ofal from the ECU. However they will also fire to minimum dwell time regardless of how short the signal is triggered, this minimum duration is hard wired and can't be altered.
  11. 1 point
    Looks awsum mate. Great to see it out there having a crack, not just a show piece. Love it.
  12. 1 point
    All I really mean is, a sale is a lot easier if the rego is easy to get. Theres a reason dealers dont put a car on the lot until they are properly detailed and roadworthied, it makes the sale a lot easier. Youre offering a fairly finished proposition and that is a lot of work, Id hate to see you do a great job painting it and then struggle to sell it without rwc. Again, all the best. Ill stay tuned for you other build.
  13. 1 point
    Hey mate. Are you asking how wide is LEGAL by law or how wide will fit on the car? How wide will fit the car is all dependant on how confident you are with a grinder. How wide will fit LEGALLY... well ill explain that below. Maxium width of wheel will depend on a myriad of things ie axle components used, track of the car, offset of wheel, weight of the car, etc. Max track of a veihcle can only be expended by 25mm per axle ie. 12.5mm per side. IF you can fit a wheel with massive positve offset (clearing suspension and braking components) you will be able to run wider rubber. HOWEVER, VSB14 REV NOV 2015, table LS2 states your maximum tyre size increase over standard. https://infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP11_Section_LS_Tyres_Suspension_Steering_Nov_2015_v4.pdf With you wanting to install an SR20, I assume that you want the car engineered, but then again, maybe you don't. Feel free to WB for more info. Am going through all the engineering garbage atm so am well versed in the shit that is vehicle safety standards, I can however tell you from an engineering legallity standpoint (reguarding standard axle ke corollas), the maxium size you can go is 195/XX r15 (but i am running a hilux diff so engineers discretion can be said as my diff is wider then stock rolla by 20mm) Regards Mac
  14. 1 point
    Hi Jake, Appears both your original & replacement alternator are both external regulator types. The terminology is slightly different with terminal markings, from the Bosch to the Chinese replacement one. Somewhere in your engine bay, is the original regulator, which should be best replaced with a new one, to suit the replacement alternator you have purchased. The common problems with these old alternators is that the brushes wear out, and reach the limits of the springs, pressing them against the slip rings. Check out the typical alternator terminal identification listings at this website. http://jasoceania.co.nz/sites/default/files/default_images/alternator Terminal identification guide.pdf D+ on your old alternator is the dash charging warning light. E on the replacement alternator is also the warning light. F or DF is the field winding, which goes to the regulator. B+ is the battery, which is the big terminal on your replacement alternator. Just make sure the new alternator will mount & line up, before committing to buying the regulator. The new matching regulator should have a lead on it that just plugs straight into the 3 terminal socket on the replacement alternator. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo
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    As always I wrote down my username and password years ago, but when I tried to log in today it said the password had to be 6 characters long, and mine is only 5. That finished that, followed up by the Hotmail email I used on it no longer existing according to Microsoft. I think I'll just write it all off as a typical modern day incident as the internet matures. In reality we should be parking truck bombs outside their headquarters.
  16. 1 point
    Early Corollas had alternators with an external voltage regulator, with the regulator box on the engine bay wall. Later Corollas had alternators, with the regulator built into the alternator itself. It sounds like your existing alternator may have an internal regulator, & the replacement one, you've bought has an external regulator. If you can take a picture of the terminal ends of the two alternators, we can probably work out what has happened. The early voltage regulators used a cycling relay, whereas the internal alternator regulators are solid state. Put some pics up, & we'll go from there. Cheers Banjo
  17. 1 point
    Clients who don't clean up their dog shit. My mower isn't a magical shit vacuum.
  18. 1 point
    Hi Mate, welcome to the ol' rollaclub! To be honest the best place to start looking is google. Rollaclub comes up first or second in almost every google result about old corollas. The other thing is to start a build thread:) then you can document your progress for us all to look at, and ask questions about your projects in one place.
  19. 1 point
    Suggestion on Toymods FB page that this Micky Scuteri guy is active again, if he ever really went away.
  20. 1 point
    my mates works for Toyota and he gave me these Lexus parking assist kits lol. Should be good for parking when loaded. Also put horns on the Domo fire pit.
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    Another week on it! Kitchen bench is in and holding the door jamb in place, wall panel replaced, mudguard box done and the TV stand re-made. The couch fits fine. Next is to sand & varnish the floor, then make a bed down the side opposite the TV cabinet. Back up in a week or two, when we start technical details like plumbing and siting it. Maybe THEN we can get into shed clearing and workshop concrete!
  23. 1 point
    Shocksworks are the shit! Have you sorted top hats/camber plates? I had to dick around a bit to get the t3 ones on mine.
  24. 1 point
    Certain suburbs in western sydney. Because in a few of them if you wear an Australian army uniform down the street to do chores certain people spit on you. Enuff is enuff. Should be proud to wear this in public and not scared somebody is gunna assult you!!! And also people who take 10, 20, 30 seconds to take off from a red traffic light. There is only one out come after a red trarfic light and thats a green one.... So be f$£king ready to go!!!
  25. 1 point
    There are no winners.. But then again, there are no comparisons either, you only get one shot at being alive. So which decision was a good one can't be found when you can't try each option. However, one thing I can say is that its better tackled when you're young, there's no point in deciding you've married the wrong person when you're 60!
  26. 1 point
    Being fucking miserable and realising it's not you but the missus and all she does is make you feel like a cunt. Then realising you have 2 kids with her. Then wondering whether to be happy or be miserable. Then deciding to be happy and it means I gotta tell my 4 and 8 year old why I'm moving to another state. And the fall out from it all....
  27. 1 point
    Dealing with alcohol interlock customers. Not even installing them yet and I am getting pissed off with them. Seriously, DO NOT ʞ¬©$ɟING DRINK DRIVE. Do not sook and whinge to me about why it is bullshit that I have to get an interlock fitted. IT IS YOUR FAULT, suck it up and move on. It could be my wife and 5 kids that you drive through while you are driving pissed.
  28. 1 point
    Nice car mate. Ref: the dash cracks. If you are in Nsw there is a bloke out Richmond way near Sydney who will refoam and repad the dash with standard style vinyl in a few colours for $450ish. Regards Mac
  29. 1 point
    Mine does the same. I Googled it last year and it seemed pretty common with old cars. The consensus seemed to be not to worry about. The large puddle of ATF that mine left on the garage floor when I got home the other day concerns me more.
  30. 1 point
    Hi Graeme, Nothing unusual about that in old cars in cold weather, like we are experiencing her in S.E. Qld. at present. I gather you are Buccan, near Chamber Fat etc. (I live at Greenbank) The last two mornings have been the coldest two mornings in the past 2 years. What happens I think, is that as the hot moist air inside the "exhaust system" cools overnight, after a run; that moisture condenses to water, & mixes & dissolves with the carbon in the exhaust system. Start it up on a cold morning; give it a couple of short burst of revs to clear the cobwebs, and instead of cobwebs, you get a black sootie water vapour. This is there all the time, but not in the initial volume you cop, when you first start your car, and blow it out. With the car warm after a run, let it idle, and briefly hold a clean white rag over the end of the exhaust pipe & you'll see what I mean. Sounds like you better get your girl to open the Rolladoor, before starting it up these mornings. Look on the good side; your girl could have backed the car into the garage, then you'd have a Gyprock wall speckled with black soot, which is not as easy to clean as a rolladoor ! P.S. Glad to see I'm not the only one to lay old carpet on the garage floor. Cheers Banjo.
  31. 1 point
    Have a KE20 with wiper issues, that really requires new pivots (bit that sticks through the body, below windscreen, to which wiper arms are attached), but can't find new ones, so hopeful of finding some second hand ones, in reasonable condition. The wiper motor also has one rear rubber mount missing, which causes it to twist slightly in action. See pictures below. Please advise if you can help out, with all or either items, and will pay accordingly . Will P/U in Brisbane area, or pay postage, as these items are relatively small & will post easily. Many thanks ! Cheers Banjo
  32. 1 point
    Suck it and see...It's a one-way valve, you want the air flow to be able to go from valve cover to intake manifold
  33. 1 point
    Youll be back driving before you know it mate.
  34. 1 point
    Sooooo no news on the e30. However.....I bought a house! More importantly what i really bought is a double garage that has rooms and a kitchen above it to keep the wife happy. Quit a good sized garage with a sort of a built in bit on the side of the underneath of the house, was previously used as a bit of a man cave. So let the real projects begin. I can finally unpack all my workshop tools that are in storage. First port of call i think is going to be painting a spare guard, door and bonnet to replaced the dented ones. Then perhaps onto some more performance orientated things. Has a huge backyard, so i might look at buying a parts car to get the panels, then i can use the parts car as trial runs for my fabrication ideas..... Wont be for a few months yet, however i can still buy parts and plan. We get the house keys on the 13th June and we have some painting to do before we move in.
  35. 1 point
    A bit more progress today. Slowly coming together.
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  37. 1 point
    steering rack rebuilt, brake bracket & backing plate all tig welded & BC Sports coilovers built with tha HUGE wilwood 280mm brakes which will help this thing stop on a dime.
  38. 1 point