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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2018 in all areas

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    Preservation of life is a big motivator. A lot of the service/repair stuff was completed over 3 days when I went to inspect a belt squeal. I just kept finding shit that needed to be done. The further I went it was just easier to fix more seeing as I'd already pulled shit off to repair that was blocking access it lol. One of the front tyres has a leak. Dam it. Oh well I'll take the front wheels off, put the 15x8 zero from the rears on the front and whack the 15x9 zero spare pair I got when I bought this set , that have never been fitted, on. Might need a bit more hammering, both front and rear. The pair on the front at the moment are not the same make as the other 4. Definitly not as well made as the others. Pretty sure the 4 good ones were made in the early days of rep wheels, they definitly have a much more refined, well made feel and finish.
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    Later on we had broken up. Then someone crashed into it as she went through an intersection. Her girlfriend calls me to console her and we got back together. Meanwhile the car gets towed away to a crash repair place where the insurance wrote it off. Last we heard, the repairer bought it off her to become the works loan car. Maybe he knew something and has a warehouse full of cars destined to explode in value. I hated the bloody thing
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    Find as many prices for similar Corollas so you have a value in mind that you can demonstrate to them. If you want to have it repaired, bargain for the right to the car, as many companies pay it out then take posession and auction the wreck. I'd expect it takes a tiny accident to write these cars off, labour at panelshops is so expensive that minor accidents are writing off 10yr old cars now. I'm amazed as what I see at Great Western Wreckers. Best-case I expect will be to get a thousand bucks from the insurance company and retain ownership of the car. Then you need a mate who is a panelbeater to help you strip and repair it. A chassis machine can pull a chassis straight, or a donor car can be cut and the rear-end welded into place. Look up regulations for statutory writeoffs, you don't want the car declared that or it can't be repaired for the road again. Good luck-
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    Hi Stuart, Awesome picture ! Lucky you ! The one for sale & the one in the Railton racer above, were both R R Meteors. If you are interested, here is the history of the Railton Racer above. http://www.leyburnmotorsprints.com.au/component/content/article/3-frontpage-/82-monster-tank-powered-special-to-debut-at-leyburn.html Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo
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    Actually Dave, there was a Railton historic racing car at Leyburn Sprints last year with a V12 Meteor or Merlin V12 engine in it. Absolutely awesome. Drinks so much juice, the owner was looking for a fuel company to sponsor him. Might be there again this year. Leyburn Sprints is on the weekend after next. Best weekend of the year ! Cheers Banjo
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    I put one a vdo one on a 4k. I don't recall having any issues. The threads are all standard sizes. Worst case you'll just have to get a threaded reducing bush. M12 to m10 or something. I only said vdo cause they are a known brand and are dirty cheap. And the gauges look fairly OEM. On my old ke70 I put the vdo temp gauge inside the cluster where the old temp gauge was. Just hacked it up and stuck it in. Looked factory. Any gauge with numbers is the go. Like banjo suggests even a $10 jobby will do! I'm a sucker for data so I always put a proper temp gauge in my old cars. Gives me something to stare at in stop start traffic.
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    "The best way is to install a proper temp gauge and use a thermometer to check its accuracy. " Yep- buy a 110deg thermometer for $10. Then idle the motor from dead cold to the maximum it gets to with the rad cap off and the thermometer in the top of the radiator. You can slip a sheet of newspaper down in front of the rad to help it as the motor isn't under load. Note down the temp and time it takes, and you will get a curve. If the temp gets to 100deg you have a problem, the cooling system just isn't up to it anymore. It should show cold, then quite quickly go to 75deg or so, and slowly climb to maybe 80 odd. Then you will know what temperature the marks on the gauge really mean. In pouring rain it shouldn't get hot at all.
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    A $50 vdo temp gauge is worth its weight in gold.
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    Hello guys and girls. It's with sadness I login to report to you today that a few months ago I did decide it was time to sell the KE70 on and allow myself to focus on the Supra. Sadly it had remained essentially stock with 4K, chopped springs and the Nemoto Sprints I bought for it until I sold it. I had huge plans for it and would have liked to have completed them, however with 2 vehicles dedicated in Jonos name, I simply couldn't financially justify spending money on the Corolla when the Supra has been a significant money sink, however as most could imagine, an incredibly worthwhile one haha. If anyone is interested in keeping up with what's happening with the Supra, i've started a build thread over on Supraforums.com.au which can be accessed without a login here. The thread is a work in progress currently, however I have some huge plans coming to fruition in the latter part of this year, which you're all invited to be a part of the ride of. I sincerely hope everyones builds are progressing and/or completed (are they ever though) by now haha. Kind Regards, Ethan. P.S. I still love Corollas dearly and vow to return to the life one day, and when that day comes you will see me again! Haha :)
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    Thanks all! Chances, no squeaks but a few noises from the front right wheel rubbing against the back of the inner fender. I gave it a tap for clearance and now she's perfect. The bushes and shocks really seem in good nick, she drives nicely. Work yesterday was on the exhaust - I knew it was a bit pinched but didn't realise it was this bad! No wonder she feels breathless over 80kmh. I got some 2" pipe to slip over the stock stuff and its going together fine. The larger pipe just means I can clearance the subframe without losing any flow, although the welding job is a bit more complicated with a bit of fill and patch work involved. More as it happens.
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    Hi Graeme, Picture No: 1 of the Gumtree ad, indicates the car has no windscreen ! How much more air conditioning than that, do you require ? Cheers Banjo
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    Been pretty busy lately only been chipping away at a few things. Finally got front bar mounted up properly. For some reason had to reshape and slot the front brackets to get it to sit right. As well as modifying the end ones but it's sitting right now so that's a bonus. Ordered seatbelts last night so waiting for them to arrive. Didn't come with rears so not putting any in. For some reason, The battery tray seems to be the rustiest part of any ke1x? So i found my best one, had it sandblasted and powdercoated. Have added some rubber under the battery also and made a quick little bracket for rego (may end up in boot later on) (bay is quite dirty still, needs a seriously good clean and polish to clean it up when i get the chance) Finally got onto fixing the incredible noisy and sloppy idler arm bushing too. Ordered a superpro replacement. All back together and 100x better than it was. Although, It is a one piece bushing and the directions say it'll press in, it wont. Being not rubber like the original it's too hard and just crushes itself. I had to neatly slice the bushing into 2 halves to get it all together. Something to note if you plan on replacing your own
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    Got blueslip today, old mate must've appreciated the new master cylinder as he commented on how good the brakes were. She might not go quick but at least she stops well! I also refitted the seatbelts after a good washing to stop them from being nasty and stained. Can't have horrible seatbelts, you're forced to handle and wear them after all. - boingk
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    NAME: Scotty Dee CAR: 1973 KE20 Toyota corolla MOTOR AND DRIVELINE: 4K 4 speed with shortened LSD SUSPENSION AND BRAKES: Adjustable camber plates and coil over struts coil over with shortened shocks rear WHEELS AND TYRES: GENUINE B45 SIMMONS [B]Interior[/B]: [B]Body[/B]: [B]Other[/B]:  I figured pictures speak 1000 words
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    Matt I almost found some photos of your car! The raucous din of ITBs on greasy suburban roads, cutting through the still morning air on the way over was a highlight
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    Sick find. I love Australia. Shirtless guys in the dark with a torch working on one of a kind engineering projects in the backyard. I feel pride.
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    Hi Ben, Dave's suggestion is excellent, as having the genuine Toyota "Yellow Bible" on the K Series, is probably one of the best investments you'll ever make, if you are going to play with a K series engine. I got one early in my journey, which covers 2K to 5K-C, and it has been invaluable. Most functions of reassembling a K Series engine are straight forward, simple, & logical, but fitting the timing chain, & aligning the crankshaft & camshaft sprockets, is one area, where if you get it wrong, it can prove dissasterous, & cause a lot of frustration, after the engine is assembled & ready to test for the first time. By that time the engine is probably already back in the engine bay, & all hooked up. The alignment is critical, & is covered in the "Yellow Bible" & the Haynes/Gregorys manuals. Essentially the timing is carried out with the engine at TDC on no: 1 & 4 cylinder. The crankshaft sprocket should be fitted first to the crankshaft, with its key fitted. The crankshaft should then be turned slightly, if required, until the "dot" marking on the outer of the crankshaft sprocket is on the lower side of the engine, and is in line with an imaginary line passing through the centre point of both crankshaft & camshaft. (see diagram in pictures below) The camshaft is then rotated, without its sprocket until the locating pin for the sprocket, lines up with inner mark on camshaft retaining plate, which again, are all in line with the imaginary line, passing through the centre points of both camshaft & crankshaft. This is now the critical point. The camshaft & crankshaft cannot be allowed to move, whilst fitting the chain. With both sprockets on a flat surface, off the engine, fit the chain to both sprockets, such that when you pick up both sprockets & chain, that they slide onto the keyway (crankshaft) & locating pin (camshaft) without rotationally moving either sprocket. When fitted, a straight edge, (like a steel ruler) should line up with both outer sprocket marks & the centre points of both crankshaft & camshaft. Actually much simpler than it sounds, when you describe it, but it is important, because if the chain is out one or two links, then the engines valve & distributor timing will be out dramatically. Have a look at the relevant scans from the manuals below, & it should all gell, as "a picture paints a thousand words". P.S. The manuals refer to markings on the chain, which I've never been able to find, because the chains are old & discoloured. Whilst laying the sprockets on a flat surface, with a straight though the centre point of both sprockets, & sprocket markings, I've just put a dab on "white Out" on the relevant link at each end to assist. Good luck, & let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo
  21. 1 point
    I was assembling a 3K on the bench at the weekend, & thought I take a few pictures of the fitment aligning marks for the timing chain, that might help those new to K Series engines, or that don't have a factory workshop manual. Getting this wrong, can cause great heartache, especially if you've assembled the engine & refitted it to the car, only to find, you've got it wrong. A dizzy fitted incorrectly, is easy to rectify, but a timing chain "refit", can be very frustrating. The camshaft & crankshaft must be in a precise postion, when the sprockets & chain are fitted. Toyota have provided some markings, which must line up. The crankshaft sprocket must be in the postion with no:1 & no:4 pistons being at TDC (top dead centre). The keyway for crankshaft sprocket should be at 12:00 o'clock. ie: vertical, with the engine horizontal. There is a small mark at about 5:00 o'clock, which I have marked with "whiteout" for these photos to make it a bit clearer. You can just see the "dot" in the pic above. The camshaft has two sets of markings. The location pin on the end of the camshaft that engages with the camshaft sprocket, must line up with the camshaft thrust plate alignment marker. Ensure the camshaft thrust plate is not fitted upside down, if you haven't already fitted the timing chain cover "back plate". The thrust plate is not synmetrical, as is shown in the pic above. These two markings are obscured, once the camshaft sprocket is fitted. The camshaft sprocket has a small mark at about 11 o'clock. The timing chain can usually be fitted with the crankshaft sprocket already fitted to the crankshaft, as long as the chain anti-vibration plate has not been fitted. The factory manual depicts two links on the chain 180 deg apart which are a different "colour", to aid in getting the next step right. Lay the chain out stretched with the chain in a straight line & mark two links, one at each end (white out). Fit the chain over the crankshaft sprocket, with one marked chain link lining up with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket at 5:00 o'clock. Fit the camshaft sprocket to the spretched chain so that the dot at 11:00 o'clock lines up with the other marked link. Taking care not to dislodge the camshaft position, the camshaft sprocket can then be located on the end of the camshaft, with the locating pin. Everything being OK, you should be able to hold a ruler or straight edge across the centre points of the camshaft & crankshaft, and the two markings on both sprockets should line up, as per the photo below. Slip the timing chain cover on, just using the location pins. With crankshaft key fitted, slip on the crankshaft pully. The TDC timing mark on the pulley should line up with 0 deg on the cover timing marks. The only proviso with this technique, is that if fitting a brand new chain, you may have to fit chain & both sprockets at the same time, as there may not be enough sideways flexibility in the chain. Cheers Banjo
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    Hello What I used out here in the states is a called a Tow Dolly Carina is 1972 TA12 witha toyota tacoma (hilux) stovk W59 tranny and 2rz power plant all stock lock and internals with Haltech 1000, 1000 injectors and Prescision 6262 turbo pushing a little over 323hp I'm at the moment sourcing another motor to build i would like a good streetable 450-500hp set up with either a R154 or W58.
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    hahahahahaha. sorry for useless post but god damn this is funny.
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