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  1. 2 points
    I am really happy with the setup, nothing hektic about the drive at all. Tyre is a 225/50/15 drag radial bfg. A 24" tire. I'm really suprised how well they are hooking so will make it my goal to run a 9 on this tyre before i inevitably go to a 26" tyre. Previously i was using a 205/50/15 drag radial mt 23.5" tyre was quite amazed how well they hooked as well for such a small tyre.
  2. 1 point
    I've seen plenty of ke10 and ke20 shells recently. Find them in the can food section of coles. Recycling:(
  3. 1 point
    Once upon a time I would make regular pickapart runs in the hope I would come across one of my models. Didn't happen often, in fact hardly at all. Haven't seen a KE1x or KE 2x for quite some years, and have only ever seen one AE86. .Yet when I saw one, I would mercilessly strip out anything remotely useful. Down to the nuts and bolts. Now I have a good stash to get me through. These days, it pays to keep a close eye on the for sales and wrecking threads here. You can also look at stock online and even photos of the cars at pickapart or centre Rd wreckers if you are in Melbourne. As mentioned, the usual auction sites, but best of all you need to build up contacts, and on here is a good place to do that. The key thing is, you have to be patient!
  4. 1 point
    Gumtree, eBay, Facebook, or just go to wreckers really
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Well, that was interesting.. A stock rad weighs 4.1kg, and the alloy one is lighter at 3.3kg. But while the stock one only takes 1.6kg water, the alloy takes 2.4. So they both weigh 5.7kg when full, but you can see how the alloy can disperse more heat, especially as its larger, 20mm wider and deeper in the core. I bolted the driver's side onto the stock mounts, the lower one needs a new hole and a spacer. The passenger's side needed a plate, a strip of 1mm galv about 70mm wide, to bolt the wider frame on. The same fan is on, although using the given holes on the other side, and I need to make another brace for the floating edge. The temp gauge runs in the same place, so a stock radiator can handle a 4AGE generally, but it doesn't have anyhing left in reserve for hot work. I put a thermometer in the top of the rad and let it idle up to warm. Well, vented discs & rad done, but I'm sure there are still things on my project list...
  7. 1 point
    Oh my look how much she has grown since the first pic you posted. It is the Princess' 18th this weekend it seems not so long ago she was only that small. Enjoy this age...before they can talk back. Hahha.
  8. 1 point
    Like Justin said, you can use a camry condenser, i would't use the AE86 compressor, just cause the age and it was really designed for R12 gas. If you could get a hold of the 2A compressor that would be so much better, designed to handle the head pressures of R134a. You'll need an extra fan, (not some cheap shit craig davies crap thing either), a genuine Toyota 5 blade A/C fan is the go, You need to have really good airflow over the condenser. Have a look at Toyota with a/c and most run 2 fan continuously with the a/c on. You have my number bro, call anytime.
  9. 1 point
    Well, I've certainly had bigger headaches! The backing plate has an obvious place to sit due to the indent for the LCA, and then it can be rotated forwards or backwards to suit the mounting holes. The center hole of the spacer was a half-mm too small, perfect to file out and get a perfectly tight fit located onto the stub axle. The 4 bolt holes were a best-guess and drilled to 8mm then filed to 10mm to get them exactly where they needed to be. One hole has an overlap, but not in a direction that is important. After the first side I made a paper template so the other side was easy. On the strut there wouldn't be 5thou of movement in rotation, and zero laterally. With the enginering finished it was a matter of assembly. The hub and disc went on- Then the calipers-The biggest pain appeared now. I went to swap the brake hoses but the hard-line 10mm fitting on the chassis end rounded itself off in my brake spanner. They sieze in there after a decade. I had to keep the KE70 lines and change the caliper, so much swearing and brake fluid everywhere! It lines up perfectly in all dimensions, very surprising really! The wheel clears fine too- So there you have it, back on its wheels with the brakes bled, but I can't drive it as I'm halfway through doing the alloy radiator conversion! The pedal may go down a tad more, hard to say without driving it, but it should as the Move has larger pistons. The Move caliper & pads (new) weigh 3.2Kg, the KE70 caliper & pads (worn out) weighed 2.4Kg. The Move disc on a KE70 hub weighs 11.55Kg, the KE70 setup is 10.85. So we've added 1.5Kg to each side.. a nuisance, but hopefully not noticeable. I even scored a set of almost-new pads, a swap for the KE70 ones that were down to their last few mm!
  10. 1 point
    Use one of the importers and container shipping can be pretty cheap. Be patient, there may be nothing decent or cheap for a while, then bang, there they are. Also be careful with your sizing/offset. I have some nice Enkies in 13's, and two sets of Weds Albinos in 14's. None more than about $350 - 400 landed. Obviously cheaper without tyres fitted. A good importer will ask questions for you.
  11. 1 point
    30mm chokes are pretty small for a 1600 bud. I think you would need to be in the 34-36mm range. I run 32mm on my 1300cc 4k
  12. 1 point
    Looks great Harry. Just move the wheels on, it's not worth the hassle, and I'm sure you will find something you like even better that fits. Yahoo Japan is a really good place to buy wheels in the size you need at very reasonable prices. You would be surprised how cheap, especially if you are prepared to be a little patient and wait for the right wheels at the right price.
  13. 1 point
    Hello again! Though I'd love to say that the car has been painted; that is unfortunately not the case. Having decided we would wait out the cold weather, we set the sprinter aside for a little while waiting for the all natural heaters to return to the garage. Certainly looking forward to it more and more. Now, although it isn't all helios T1507 red, I've done a little bit. The doors are now back on and hung (kind of) properly, I've discovered that my widened steelies are a little bit expensive to bother with, and have my door seals on. I also bought an entire spare 4K-C engine with a 4 speed box for 150 bucks! And just yesterday; I bought a great looking set of mags. 150 bucks, no tyres but being 13 inch they are easy and cheap to come by. I also "decided" to leave the roadbikes alone for a while. (I got caught speeding and am suspended ;p ) That said, I've sold my bike and have paid off my dad what I owed for the bodywork, and have a little bit of cash to poke the Sprinter with. Looking forward to seeing it painted. I hate to put dates on this build because they don't get met, but I'm thinking at this stage, by my eighteenth birthday (January 23rd) we should see it painted and almost ready (if not entirely) for rego. Here's hoping!!! So today; i went and got a few bitsand pieces to get the car going again. New oil, plugs, fanbelt, and my new -supposedly working- alternator. My wiring is shoddy but I will have someone who's a little neater have the car cleaned up. Also! Some new regarding my new fantastic and gorgeous wheels! ...they don't fit. They're 4X108 not 4X110!! :,/ so that means i put a fresh set of rubber on them for no reason... great. Real shame too. I love how they look on her. Have considered a few various options including redrilling, changing hubs etc etc.. but have decided I may as well jsut flog them off and see if I can get my money back. Give me a ring if you want them. (0458-677-210) haha Next thing on the to-do list is fix the remaining body imperfections on the roof and passenger door. From there, we can prep the body and get things going for one of the most exciting parts of this build...the paint!
  14. 1 point
    Aha I've just now picked up 120 main/f9 emulsion tubes /175 air correctors based on that guide, so I'll see how I go with those.
  15. 1 point
    been mucking around coz i was bored, its quite lonely here in the jungle. i have forever been stuck with a 3k carby on my 4k, which had to hav its idle (slow) jet cut with an angle grinder to allow enough fuel to flow for a decent idle, and also required that the idle mix screw be wound out one turn further than factory PLUS also needed a customized PCV valve which provided perfect seal and no leak at idle for it to run without mucking with the base idle speed. so i got to that point and realised that once hot, the engine would idle fine with the mixture screw back in abit, to half a turn from factory spec. so i decided i wanted economy and clean plugs and set the mixture to this lean condition and i was, up until now, living with the fact i had to rev the engine when cold to warm her up before going anywhere. this is very difficult when you don't have a handbrake and live on a hill in the jungle. so yesterday i decided to make a lever in the car which operates the idle mixrure screw from the drivers seat hahah. when cold, i push the lever forward to turn the screw anticlockwise half a turn, and then when its warmed up, i pull it back out and it idles slower and leaner where it should be. i feel carburettor cold starting systems shouldve been designed like this in the first place rather than choking the air intake and opening the throttle at the same time like all conventional chokes do. i think the convential choke plate does sweet fek all and everyone who uses one is being fooled by the throttle cold idle link. in effect, i am manually doing what EFI vehicles do, enriching the fuel for the warm up period.
  16. 1 point
    This might be helpful.
  17. 1 point
    The 115 main jet seems small for a 2tg. Check out here for some examples: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/23680-xT-Series-Engine-Variants They are for Solex and Dellorto but would give a good starting point. 140 would be a better start. Trying out different sets of jets can cost a bit. I order from eurocarb in the UK, or UK ebay. Would be handy to have a wideband O2 sensor for tuning.
  18. 1 point
    Loving this Camry. Its got a full one owner genuine Toyota service history, by time not by ks, its got all the dockets stamped up to 127500 service despite only having the 78ks. No more than about 9 months between drinks and it came from Gracemere up by Rockhampton, so its a country car too. They must have been pretty particular owners as they had the time recorded when they picked it up, as well as the date and mileage when purchased new. Full on. All written in the cursive script of a hexagenarian. Oil looks nice. Quite a few signs of adequate maintenance too.
  19. 1 point
    Interesting reading. Its a thing of beauty.
  20. 1 point
    Damm that looks good! The T pistons are like the 18RG's, so they don't propagate flame very well when cold or lean either. Its funny because hemispherical heads were the absolute peak of technology in the 50s and 60s, until they realised bathtubs were just miles better for just the reasons you mentioned.
  21. 1 point
    What on earth. You do realise that the choke flap creates a smaller opening in the carby, which speeds up the air as it goes past the venturi which sucks in more fuel and richens up the mixture? The chroke flap does increase the fuel, automatically, just like an efi system.
  22. 1 point
    Where are you located? A guy was selling a few in Melbourne
  23. 1 point
    Here ya go young fella https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-Yb6y6qxw1gdkt3dnQ2SFVkQzQ/view
  24. 1 point
    Buy your car. Get the best possible tech manual ( genuine Toyota are really helpful). Drive her around for a while and identify the stuff that needs to be done. Read about it and then have a crack at fixing it. I like the adage " if it aint broke don't touch it." Then decide what direction you want to go, be it daily drive, mild or wild street weapon or full blown race car. Above all take your time and enjoy the rolla experience.
  25. 1 point
    nah i stand by it. people get turned off by carbs because they look complicated. best to dive in and start with it. And who said its well functioning? haha Hes about to but one, it wont be off someone whos looked after it. itl be full of grime, and i would place a hefty bet that the carb will need attention and that the seller will have wound on the idle screw to hide a bad idle. I'm adamant of it, if its a stock motor that he buys he will be pulling it apart to clean it. You have to admit, these carbies are a bitch.
  26. 1 point
    Perhaps a bit extreme pulling down a well functioning carb the day after you get it. Id suggest changing all the oils, new filters and points and adjusting the tappets! Then when you get keen, replace the points with electronic ignition. You will love it and learn a lot as you tinker. We're here if you get stuck.
  27. 1 point
    as for tools some of the most important for an old toyota are 1. impact screwdriver, required because all screws will be seized 2. multimeter with digital display 3. vacuum gauge, suggest just buying a chinese gauge on ebay and sticking a barb and hose on it, this will cost about 5 dollars 4. feeler gauge, no DIYer one ever sets valve clearances correctly on any engine that ive ever purchased. learn to do it propperly. also good for spark plug gap and contact points if you have a points distributor 5. some sort of book on the basics of old engines. i am sure haynes or gregories have a few
  28. 1 point
    i say dive in head first and take apart the carb and clean and rebuild it. it should be the most understood part of the car but few younger folk know anything about them nowadays. it is where all the action happens and where most of the daily driver problems lie. if u attempt to learn about it by reading forums alone, without having taken one apart, you will un-learn, and understand less. that is my advice.
  29. 1 point
    Find a car with the best body you can. The mechanicals are easy. Then get yourself a full set of preferably factory manuals and learn as you go. Initially have fun fixing whatever needs fixing, but do bear in mind not to spend too much if you think you might like to modify things one day. But really, standard replacement mechanical parts are cheap and readily accessible. There is also a great deal of info on the site here. Look at other build threads, have fun using the search function, and ask away when you get stuck, or need inspiration. They really are great cars!
  30. 1 point
    Sure, take a look through The Girls KE70 here. I wanted a reliable quickish car for my daughter to learn on, without spending money. There's still more you can do to the K engine, guys on here are discovering more all the time.
  31. 1 point
    Lifters pumping up. Never had that happen, and my 5k would see 7500 rpm plus most of the time.
  32. 1 point
    If it was sludge jamming it you would know! It was thick like soot mixed with tar on that Holden! You couldn't touch anything under the cover without ending up smeared in black gunk that wouldn't wash off... For dry, sooted-up valve guides you can check first. That's what the compression test would tell you, if they were holding a valve open you would have zero psi on that cylinder. If you don't own a compression gauge, buy one, it will last you all your life. Anyway, check out Google on how to position the motor for doing tappets if what I write doesn't make sense. First, pull the plugs out. (or leave them out after your compression test) Basically you have two pairs of cylinders moving up and down together, #1 and #4 and cyls #2 and #3. So when #1 & #4 move up together, one is on compression stroke, one on exhaust stroke. (At the same time the pair of #2 and #3 are moving downwards.) You can watch the one on exhaust stroke as it closes the exhaust valve and opens the inlet valve. There is about 20deg of overlap, and when those two rockers are at an equal height the piston will be on top dead center. Luckily you can check your estimation by looking at the timing mark on the crank pulley TDC mark which is for #1 and #4. So you watch the cylinder on exhaust stroke to get TDC, then set the sister-cylinder which is on compression. That will have maximum tappet gap on both valves, which should be 10thou for inlets and 12thou for exhausts. (bigger gap on exhausts because they get hotter and the stem expands more) Lets say #1 was on exhaust and you set #4. The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and you had #1 on exhaust. So the next cylinder on exhaust is #3, and you watch that until the inlet just starts down as the exhaust closes, and set the tappets on #2. After watching #3 cross, you are back to setting the #1 and #4 pair. This time watch #4 until it crosses over and set #1, again you can check TDC by looking at the crank pulley. Then do the same for the last cylinder, watching #2 for the valves crossing and setting #3. I undo all the locknuts at the start, so I know I've done a rocker if the nut is tight. Don't go too stupid doing them up, and leave the ring spanner on the nut as you turn the bolt with the screwdriver, as the gap will change as you tighten the nut even if you hold the screwdriver steady. Just back the nut off a tad until you can alter the gap with the screwdriver and do the nut up again. Some take a few tries to get a feeler gauge sliding through smootly. What are you planning for the car?? In other words... how soon are you pulling the head off for modifications??