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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Looking great fellas, well done, it looked like a nice day to showcase your hard work. We don't have enough of these types of events in Perth.
  2. 2 points
    Few good updates.....My rear panel arrived and it looks like it's been a newish panel stitched on to a rustier car. It's been hacked off the back of the donor so thankfully all those rusty bits like the remainder of the boot floor etc can just be removed as I only need the actual face of the panel. It's got a bit of pitting along the bottom valance and a few small holes, but it's miles better than the bent swiss cheese on my car at the mo. And I had my suspension mounts, struts and a few other bits professionally welded and certified etc Bearings removed from axles and minor repair to axle - wire wheeled up the hub faces and will need to replace a stud. Ball joints removed from LCA's, bolts swapped into straight (non bent) strut bar. Rusty section cut out of backing plate........which I then proceeded to put a hole in when cleaning up the welds ha ha will get it filled up easily enough. And the main event........leaf spring perches onto the AE86 diff housing And after a quick mock up and to check alignment......it is the goods! (will need to get bigger U-bolts for the larger diff housing) MMMM......professional quality welding Gave a few bits a coat of primer the other day, then some top coats yesterday while the weather was......warmer atleast. It got pretty cold once I had finished, hopefully that doesn't effect the6-8 hour cure time?? Had them all hanging together with the fan heater going to warm up the area....complete with hi-tech corrugated cardboard insulation barriers! Powercleaned the diff housing, doused the inside with CRC and gave it a rub down with rust converter, and another coat on the leaf springs. Also had the shitty paint blasted off the callipers and got some crappy tyres fitted to the wheels to get it rolling atleast. Ordered some bigger U-bolts and the lowering blocks/brackets are being modified to fit them. Also got a massive stash of new seals, bearings, bushes etc..... Now I just need another good day to finish off the top coats and the fun part of assembling all of this to get it rolling begins!
  3. 1 point
    For anyone who got too frustrated, and just asked the parts store to look at each piston, sorry that this was too late. This should probably go on the wiki page. Ask me for the xl file with the data. Not totally finished yet, but what i have done is confirmed correct. Sources: japan-parts.eu (some incorrect data verified by other sources) Precision intl (pictures) Alibaba (good source of cheap Chinese exporters with product photos) rollaclub (images) ebay (people selling new products in boxes with part numbers) JCC Pistons (Dimensions) http://www.jcc-tw.com/en/
  4. 1 point
    It’s looking fantastic. You must be so proud of what you have achieved, it’s come such a long way. Did you bolt the front bumper to the front guards? You can guarantee you will then crease the guard lip if you ever touch anything with the bumper
  5. 1 point
    Right. Big news.. sorta And apologies to you, and my future self, for the lack of updates between the previous post and now. Regardless; the car is more-or-less back together! I have been very much enjoying sitting back in awe of what's been accomplished... but I'll save all the sappy stuff for the big one.. rego! Car went back together relatively easily. I did however learn that masking tape is a biiiitch to get off things once it becomes old. However, that said, I am thankful I used at least something to hold certain bolts/nuts in certain places... it certainly aided in the midst of the "where-the-heck-did-that-bolt-go?" Situation. The interior, though it's pretty banged up, is great to see put together. I loved the fact that it took about an hour to put it in! A lot of dirt came off the parts. It's been a while. I am not entirely happy with my rear window rubbers and how they sit. Front bumper apparently doesn't fit anymore! Jono C. (Green Sprinter) had mentioned he had difficulty refitting his because the mounts would bend apart and away from each other... but i have a different problem. Mine no longer reach the bolt holes. The chrome bumper itself hits the stonetray/valance/whatever you wish to call it before the mounting holes line up. I suppose this is an after-effect of all the surgery. By the seems, this means my car is ever so slightly narrower in the front. By...2cm or so peobably. The car looks amazing. Yet there is still much to do. In fact.. i have a list written on my phone that still does not fit on the screen. But, optimism is key. It's all uphill. She's closer than ever before. For now, just gotta keep my head down and cross things off the list. And of course enjoy the occasional sneaky drive ;)
  6. 1 point
    Don't over think it. I usually just consult the penrite oil product guide when looking at oils. 80w90 seems to be the go. Any brand you like. These days I generally just buy a brand name that is on special. Reality is any "Mineral manual gear oil" will do the trick. They all smell just as bad in gear oil
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Got this nice little 1 owner a few weeks ago with full log books, receipts and even a Polaroid of it when it was new, its my first Corolla and so far I love it Main reason I liked it so much was that it was kept stock its whole life so there isn't many parts I need to find and I thought it was quite rare to find one in this condition. The drivers side door had a good whack a few years ago the previous owner mentioned, I had to source a new glass window (got the whole door+mirror which was awesome). Wasn't as hard to find as I had firstly thought, other than that the passenger front guard has a small but decent dent in the front near the headlight and the chrome strip is all busted up :(. Not much rust at all considering its age I thought, rear passenger guard is the worst in the whole car. I believe the car had a touch up long ago as there's signs of repair in back of the roof/down between the windows, looks good from far away so that will do for now lol... Dumped the oil straight away and put some nice full zinc Penrite in and gave the engine bay and motor a good scrub. Thermostat was totally seized so that was replaced. New oil and fuel filter. Water pump has seen better days but I have it a good clean and slapped it back on for now. Sanded back the air cleaner housing as it was in a terrible state but gave up after it was good enough as I didn't have the right tools to do it properly. Gave it a paint in white but it looked weird so I went black, need to find the original color code or something... taped up the best looking original paint and the sticker on the housing so I could get it matched if all else fails (not a high priority at all). Rocker cover was sanded back with 1500 and it come up pretty good I thought. Flushed out all the crappy rusty water from the block and heater hoses - was filthy... Gave the radiator a flush with the hose and painted it and the fan cover. Noticed the distributor vacuum advance wasn't working, I think the diaphragm is seized up.. don't have a timing light handy so when I take it to the mechanics soon ill get him to take a look at the distributor and hopefully its an easy fix (doubt it). Does this need to be working for the secondaries to open up on the carb or is it just for the timing when decelerating ? In this photo the carb doesn't look like one of the throats have been working ? Read up a bit about them but still a little confused. I'm thinking ill just send it away and get it rebuilt when I have some cash to blow. Other than that there isn't too much mechanically wrong with it, going to change the wheel bearings cause that's cheap and probably start looking at the bushes and replacing them slowly over time. Ill take some nice pics when its up on the hoist. Really wanted to get the cassette player working so I pulled it apart and gave it a good clean (had to learn how to do this lol). Replaced the belt and found the motor to be seized, come good with some crc lectra-clean and a few spins. Took a while to get it sorted so when it finally worked I was so happy ... made some tapes on a $40 Yamaha tape deck I got off gumtree yesterday just for recording and they sound pretty good (not really) from the original speakers, when I'm cashed up ill get some 5x7 which Ive read should fit in the standard holes - ill check before I buy any as I def don't want to cut any holes anywhere. Video of the player working with a tape I made up :)) https://streamable.com/wvqww Main drama I still have is when I floor the pedal - even when rolling, it just bogs down until maybe 3000rpm ?? then it seems to liven up. Was pretty sluggish when I first drove it but after the little service I gave it and filled it up with 98 + upper head lube additive it seems to have come back to life somewhat. I'm thinking perhaps the timing is simply off, or worst case the carb needs a good service or tune at least. Still haven't got my hands on a service manual as some of them don't have the KE35 coupe and some do - I think... just going to get a newer one when I can which will def have the CS Coupe. So that's it for now, done about 300km over the past week with her all over Brisbane, up the lookout, over the gateway bridge and its very nice to drive! Next on the agenda are wheel bearings, gearbox oil gasket, sort out the carb. Long term goal is to slowly refurbish the rest of the car, the front guard needs to be beat out or replaced and the drivers side door needs to be swapped over with the one I got with the window. Hoping the a KE55 coupe door line up with the body lines on the KE35... I know the base of the mirrors are bigger on the 55 as I have one for my drivers door, the bottom hangs off the body a bit so I'm wondering if the door is slightly wider or something. Hate autos also, would be nice to swap it over to 4 or 5 speed as id like to drive long distance and the old trimatic is kinda limited to 90 unless I want to rev the hell out of it for an hour straight but I don't want to cut any holes to fit it. Ive read the early K gearboxes should bolt right in, but Ive also heard the autos may not have the mounting holes for the manual - its a low priority so not too worried about it for now - its just a cruiser anyway Anyway hope you enjoy the pics, hopefully down the road it will have a total respray in the original color and at this stage ill fix the rust, door and all the big jobs like that as it wont be very cheap to do it properly.
  9. 1 point
    At this point use it as a learning experience, and only continue with a rebuild if you actually want to spend the money and time to get it done. Otherwise, get a running engine and replace the old one. You will need (as per parrots post and mine above) to measure all interfaces requiring new parts. They were within tolerances *once*, and that was coming out of the Toyota factory over 40 years ago. Every time it has started since then it has gotten further and further out of tolerance. You literally have zero idea what the state of the engine is unless you measure these interfaces. Not being nasty and just trying to state facts. I would use the factory manual, you can obtain a copy easily enough. Try this link. You will need a micrometers or varying types. I would recommend a set of vernier calipers and a bore dial-indicator at the very minimum. Let us know if there is anything else you need to know. This is a process I have done myself many times and the simplest/smallest oversight will lead to an engine that eats itself within minutes, hours or weeks. Cheers - boingk EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see you had the block and head at the shop. Good move. You will need bores machined most likely and you can get the head skimmed while its there. Being only a small-bore 4cyl it shouldnt cost too much.
  10. 1 point
    This is something you need to have done by someone who knows what they are doing. Otherwise you are going to have a disaster. By all means have a go at putting it all together (use a factory manual) but get the block, crank and rods assessed by an engine builder and let them order the correct size parts for you.
  11. 1 point
    I agree, queuing makes me anxious. 6.45 with a large coffee to go! I'd better knock up a new thermostat gasket tonight then. A quick peek last night revealed a decent patch of greenery on the shed floor.
  12. 1 point
    OK fuck golf Im in! Leaving at 7am does that mean we are exhibiting? I've always kinda wanted to enter the ae86 and see the reactions.
  13. 1 point
    Thats awesome, so you happy with it enough to come out on a longer drive?
  14. 1 point
    The pedal box doesn't look like that much work has been done but it took a long time to get it all aligned. I ended up cutting the tube out of the pedal and made a new pivot tube. The pedal was then welded to the new tube about 12mm to the left to get the pushrod inline with the cylinder. Drilled a new hole in the pedal arm to get, hopefully, the correct throw length. I then had to adjust the angle of the Cylinder against the firewall, spacing out the bottom 6mm to match the angle of the push rod. It is currently spaced out with washers yet will mill up an angled spacer plate once the concept has been proven. The adjusting rod I bought a piece of solid square steel and drilled and tapped for an approximate length to then give the correct adjustment. The stock banjo joint that came with the cylinder was about 15mm short of where the hole needed to be for the angles. I probably should have documented what I did more but it really just evolved until it worked. If I have to pull it out I will do measurements and backwards engineer it. Assuming it works. I still haven't actually tested it, so I hope I have enough throw. From measurements it should have around 90% travel on the pushrod. Turns out of the 2 different thrust bearing I have, I don't have the correct one so yet to check it all actually works. If it doesn't then I have a spare pedal box and will start again and move the pivot point up to increase the throw angle. As much work as that is I wouldn't have to mill a plate for the firewall angle.
  15. 1 point
    Yep thankfully the piston is fine, a bit of scuff on the sides because of the disintegrating bearing below it, but no damage as a result of the broken ring. Will be fine to go back in with a new set of rings. On closer inspection of the crank its definitely no good. So i pulled one from a spare motor tonight, will measure it up and see if out needs a grind.
  16. 1 point
    This thread is exactly on point with what corollas are all about to me, a blank canvas to realise your vision. Well done,. you made an awesome little mini 4 runner!
  17. 1 point
    Bought a KE70 grille with a GT badge a couple months ago, chrome trim along the top is in overrated condition, very happy with my item and his excellent communication along with prompt international shipping.