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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi Colin, I think I've just worked out, what Si was on about with his warning. Once you get started on this polishing thing, it becomes an obsession, to remove every little micro-scratch, until you can see your own reflection in it. Was in Bunnings yesterday, but finest grit wet & dry in stock was 1200 grit. Grabbed a few sheets. Off to SCA then, as I had some credits, which were just about to run out. Grabbed some metal polish. Last night, for 40 minutes, I rubbed one end of the cover, & then polished it, & the difference was amazing. Unfortunately, every time I've used my mobile phone this morning, I had to revert to my pin number for entry, as my finger print is no longer recognised ! "It's a slippery slope" indeed. I've just instructed myself, to not even look at the "timing chain cover". 🥵 Cheers Banjo
  2. 1 point
    He is stoked and hanging out to get it in the bush and here I am contemplating on which state or country I'll move to once borders and jobs are going.
  3. 1 point
    Hi guys Just a follow up on this welder.so it turned out to be a small circuit board that controls the wire feed motor. The guy that repairs them use to send them away to have them repaired ,but that person has since retired. So i had to get a new one !!$270 later it works fine. Its a shame these people retire ,and seemingly don't pass there skills on to the younger ones,seems to happen in a lot of industries these days. Its turf it buy a new one. cheers rob
  4. 1 point
    Thanks Stu, You didn't spoil the surprise. The auto electrician, contacted Andrew late yesterday, & gave him the good news (about only good news coming out of Melbourne atm) Andrew contacted me last night, & he is very happy & appreciative, to have his engine running, after many, many months. I was only too happy to be part of a group, including yourself, who have helped Andrew eventually realise his vision. This episode of the ignition issues, Andrew faced using an electronic dizzy as a simple trigger input to an aftermarket ECU, reminds me of a longer discussion, regarding this topic, we all had on here, 2-3 years ago, when Graeme (Big G), was sick of changing the points in his Girls Rolla. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/#comments Cheers Banjo
  5. 1 point
    Well, the guys in Melbourne trying to sort this out, "guessed", that the black wire with the white stripe was positive, & they were right ! Engine now running ! Cheers Banjo
  6. 1 point
    Nope. Spacer will make it worse. 8" is too big anyway. Aim for 7" with some decent 195 wide rubber.
  7. 1 point
    For Sale: Straight KE30 2 Door Corolla. 1975. Resprayed in Gypsum 2 pack in 2003 so paint still pretty good. Engine: Built 5k, solid lifter conversion with stage 3 camtech cam. 1 x 40mm sidedraft Weber. Extractors/exhaust...all the usual stuff. MSD-6AL and pertronic ignitor with all mechanical dizzy Trans: 5 Sp T50 (Early) with K-T Bell housing - needs front oil seal replacement...leaks like a sieve so needs work. Uprated tailshaft (Holden 6 sized UJs) - TA22 Hyd clutch. 21 spline plate from eXtreme Clutch Diff: R31 Skyline, shortened with corrected pinion angle and KE30 mounts - noisy but strong. Engineer certified with QLD Mod plate, rear anti roll bar to suit and custom handbrake cables Brakes: Stock KE30 front, rear R31 Disc and calipers with mechanical handbrake. Suspension - lowered King in the front, extra leaf and rest leaf pack down the back. Wheels: 14" Steelies, all tyres will be too old for road use now... Interior - ok, Carpet replaced and still good, Front seats retrimmed and still pretty good. Door cards gone and headlining needs replacing. Has a CD player with an amp and speakers. Remote alarm with central locking. Unregistered, East Gippsland, Victoria. 3 boxes of spare bits to go with it. Price: $2000 ONO, as is, buyer to collect - hasn't been driven in 5 years, so this will not be a drive away job - needs tires, all fluids, rotors etc. Been in my family since new...will miss it, but no longer have the time. Photos of build over the years below. It's not that clean at the moment either but will scrub up ok. Just needs some TLC. Oh and it has a Venetian blind in the back! email if interested: [email protected]
  8. 1 point
    So with the tooth wheel sorted, it's time to check & calibrate all the other inputs, the Speeduino needs to run. Coolant Temperature: I built a coolant sensor, using a precision NTC thermistor probe, I have, with an R25 value of 10K ohms. All of the temp sender units, I've collected over the years, are single wire ones, using the engine block & the chassis earthing system, for the return of the "resistance" circuit. I wanted to make all the sensors feeding into the Speeduino, to be two (2) wire, so that there is only one earthing point for them all, back within the Speeduino PCB itself. I grabbed an old sensor, & drilled out all the sensor element, until it was a clean bare brass shell. Then I inserted the insulated thermistor probe, & glued it in with Aradite. Then to calibrate in for use with the Speeduino. The standard "bias" resistor fitted to the Speeduino PCB has a value of 2490 ohms. That works out well, as the 10K ohm thermistor, has resistance values of 20 deg C (19.9) = 12.566K ohms 60 deg C (59.9) = 2.5K ohm 100 deg C (100.5) = 0.669K ohm So the mid point of the range we are wanting the readings to be most accurate, is 60 deg C, where the resistance of 2.5K ohm, is almost exactly the same as the bias resistor, at 2.49K ohm. That should provide good accuracy. I plugged all the three temp points & their corresponding ohm values, into the settings, in TS, & burnt it to the Speeduino processor. As the coolant measurement, will be in the 80-95 deg C range, most of the time, I decided to check it with the only standard high temperature, I have handy, which is boiling water. Off to the kitchen to "borrow" my wife's electric kettle. I suspended the probe inside, & it read 20 deg C, which was the ambient temp here this morning. Then I turned on the kettle & watched the temperature rise through the range in Tuner Studio, until it stopped at 100 deg C, just as it boiled. So fitted it to the engine, at the highest point of the water coolant system. Next sensor will be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), which I've just pulled off my 7K EFO setup. P.S. I had been concerned that I was going to have to reroute the coolant drain cock, located directly below the water pump, whose removal was just blocked by the addition of the Toothed Wheel. However, I discovered if I rotated the engine, so that the "missing tooth", was opposite the end of the drain cock, it was possible to remove the drain cock, with a socket. Cheers Banjo
  9. 1 point
    Found some manifold studs late yesterday, that were exactly the correct size & length, for attaching the 36:1 toothed wheel, to the 5K crankshaft pulley. 8mm M1.25 38mm long. The pic below, shows them fitted with some thread locker, in the pulley threads. Four (4) off 35mm OD thick 1/2" washers, Araldited together, made a perfect 9-10mm deep spacer, between the back of the toothed wheel, & the original washer face on the crankshaft pulley. That creates a gap of about 10mm between, between the back edge of the toothed wheel, & the crankshaft pulley V belt edge flange. It is important, that there is no ferrous material, very close to the teeth on the trigger wheel, if the best signal is to be produced from the sensor. This is not an issue, when this wheel is used, with a 3K or 4K crankshaft pulley, as they are only have a 110mm O.D., & the teeth are well clear from any surrounding ferrous metal, of the pulley. I found a website for for a USA manufacturer of trigger wheels, that suggests a clearance gap between the end of the tooth & the face of the Hall sensor, of 3-5 thou, per inch of diameter of the wheel. For this particular wheel, that works out about 0.46mm - 0.76mm clearance. So I assembled it all, & adjusted the sensor position, to one tooth, with a 0.5mm feeler guage. I then rotated the wheel, with the feeler across the face of the sensor, & it neither got looser or tighter, so I'm very happy with the eccentricity of the trigger wheel. Thanks Danel ! The bracket that the Hall sensor is attached to, should not be made of ferrous material, so the magnetic flux to the sensor, is not diverted or "drained", by nearby ferrous material. I have made my bracket out of a thick piece of thick aluminium, which you can spot in the pic above. This trigger wheel setup, is critical, as to whether the result is a flawless & reliable EFI performance or not, so I am making sure, at this point, that it is as good as I can get it. After it is assembled, I'll crank the engine over, & view the sensor pulse output, with an oscilloscope, to see how clean the pulses are. Cheers Banjo
  10. 1 point
    So the 36:1 toothed trigger wheel for the 4K engine arrived, & is now fitted to my 5K engine. The 36:1 toothed wheel will fit 3K, 4K, & 5K crankshaft pulleys, as the mounting points are identical on each. The 3K & 4K crankshaft pullies, are about 110mm O.D., whereas the 5K crankshaft pully is about 145mm O.D. The toothed wheel is 155mm O.D. so sits nicely on the 5K pulley, with the teeth clear of the pulley edge, as seen in the above pic. The toothed wheel, will bolt straight up to the 3K & 4K pullies, but has to be spaced on the 5K pulley. My 5K crankshaft pulley is dished, to take additional pullies, & has a harmonic balancer built into it, so the toothed wheel will crush the harmonic rubber, if bolted up, without a spacer. The centre bolt also needs a spacer behind the toothed wheel, as there is a gap there to the crankshaft pulley, of about14-15mm. Likewise, the 4 off 8mm x 1.25M mounting bolts, will need to be about 35mm long, & need spacer tubes behind the toothed wheel. I'm actually going to use manifold studs, that happen do be available, in that exact size. Makes it a lot easier to assembly, than with bolts, & spacers behind the toothed wheel. This 36:1 toothed trigger wheel, is laser cut from 6mm thick plate, rather than being a machined one, which cost a lot more, to manufacture. Considering it is laser cut, it is of good quality. I set it up with a piece of clamped metal near the teeth, & measured the eccentricity, & lateral run-out, & it was much less than 1mm out. The best & easiest point, to mount the Hall tooth sensor, is off the K engine block A.C. bracket mounting points, just around the corner. You could make a fancy one, that was mounted off the "timing chain cover", but at this stage, that is a lot of work, & will have to wait until another day, when the timing chain cover is off for another reason. Last night, I temporarily hooked up a Honda Hall effect sensor, I got on ebay. I used one of these previously, for counting the starter teeth on the flywheel, & it worked well. I cranked the engine over, without spark plugs, & was greeted with a clean stream of pulses from the Hall sensor, via an opto-coupler & an LED, on a little board, that also produces a 0-5 volt square wave pulse train, for the Speeduino ECU input. Here is a good general video about crank & cam toothed wheel sensors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW0ENqcxNSg Now I know it all works, I'll take the toothed wheel off, & paint it, as being bare mild steel, it won't take long to rust, in our Qld. weather. Cheers Banjo
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