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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Here she is. Hope you like my KE20
  2. 2 points
    Season's greetings Rollaclub! Thanks to the admins and financial contributors who keep our projects, anecdotes, images and knowledge base online. Cafe racer burger run.
  3. 2 points
    She hasn't spent a day of her life in the barn. So sad.
  4. 2 points
    Hi James welcome to the forum. There is a great deal of experience and enthusiasm on here, and the forum is still pretty active despite the drift to faceplant. Other than some pretty dubious info given out on the FB sites, the other great advantage of the forum is that you can easily search for info, the vast majority of which has been asked before. Can't do that on FB. Also have a good look at the rides forum for some inspiration. It's actually quite easy to load photos by the way. The inner wheel arch plate has long been unavailable, and second hand ones are rarely usable. But not to hard to fabricate a replacement. Rust is common in the rear pockets, bottom of front guard (due t those plates) and the front and rear sills. Also under the rear quarter windows. Really after nearly 50 years, they can rust anywhere. Well worth taking out the seats and carpets and having a good look. VIN numbers didn't exist when these were built, so you rely on the body number. Virtually all after market parts are pretty poor quality, and the dash pads are no exception. OEM can still be got with a bit of hunting, but expect to be paying around $300. It's not hard to retrofit a booster with twin circuit master cylinder. It's been discussed often on the forum. A booster doesn't improve braking performance, just how hard you need to push the pedal. Won't actually stop any better. Spoilers I can't help with, but they were never available when new. Anything available is a generally a Bodge job and needs to be screwed to the body. Not really a great idea. Webers are a topic of their own and a lot depends on the condition of the carb/s themselves. Then it's about balancing and tuning, and don't forget the general condition and tune of the engine.
  5. 2 points
    Sorry, let me clarify that. Toyota ECU’s don’t fail. Mindful that you’re the guy who modifies carbie jets with an angle grinder as I recall.... Stupid app won’t let me put an emoji in, but I’m a bit old for all that anyway.
  6. 2 points
    What starts out as a cheap/free 4k, can end up costing a few grand when you get carried away building a track engine
  7. 1 point
    The catch can will run just fine. You don't need to over think it
  8. 1 point
    Another day spent on the car with a bit of news probably worth mentioning to the thread. Have sorted more and more imperfections that we have discovered, as well as fixing some of the larger problems too. We decided to chuck on some high-build primer in a few of the more....wobbly areas. Then sand some off a bit, etc etc. All bare metals is covered currently so that's a bonus too. We are ever-more edging closer to the big day... Christmas? No no, the REALLY big day -painting the extieror of course! The primer has revealed a few more tasks that need to be sorted but it's all slowly coming together. -despite often looking the same as the last post. Regardless, It's progress. And it's welcome at that. This is the summer it's going to receive the luscious red! Then she'll be put back together and we'll go for reg at some stage in 2018. Supposedly my phone's having trouble with photos- I'll see what I can do..
  9. 1 point
    nah parrot, the fresh air comes from the air filter housing, the PCV doesnt feed into there, if thats how its setup on urs its been setup wrong. That little meshed filter is supposed to be stoppign solids from entering the PCV breather hose, which should be on the other side of that. Thats why its inside the filter, so that the fresh air supply is filtered. The pcv valve wont open from the "at rest" backfiring position unless it has vacuum pulling on it. To get the catch can to work, you must pull the PCV gasses into it, by sucking through the catch can with vacuum. If you don't have a vacuum source involved in your catchcan setup, you are completely wasting your time and risking having nastys building up in the crankcase, , and greatly increasing oil consumption. If you want to run a catch can setup it has to be like this Sorry bout the poor graphics haha MS paint can only do so much
  10. 1 point
    Drill & tap the Lynx manifold, I did it when I moved the brake booster inlet so I could fit the extractors on. That gives you brake booster vac, and as you said I T-pieced the PCV line into that so they both had full vac. Later I added a separate vac line for the PCV. The second tappet cover line goes to the inside of the air filter so it draws filtered air into the engine as the PCV draws dirty air out. When you're idling the dirty air goes into the air filter as the PCV is shut then. You could just catch tank the breathers, but if you don't have the Lynx vac inlet for the brake booster you'll have to drill it anyway. PM me if you'd like to borrow the drill & tap for that fitting. You can see where I blocked off the hole that was in the Lynx when I bought it, and re-located it to the edge. The PCV now goes in the middle of the Lynx manifold.
  11. 1 point
    Yes, often it feeds into the manifold. But in your situation it doesn't matter, as you preferably feed it into a catch can anyway. The rocker space and the crankcase are in reality connected, so pressure within the engine's non combustion areas should effectively be equal anyway.
  12. 1 point
    Once you see what ends up in the can, you’ll be pleased it isn’t going through the carbs. But make sure you empty it regularly
  13. 1 point
    Thanks, Its really taken some time to get back to work. Got to remove some unwanted brackets today, just a bit of soft porn for Chris Scott when he has a look.
  14. 1 point
    As a matter of fact i did thanks. But not until i whipped up this handy bit of gear. It took me about a half an hour make and no time at all to get the bolt off. Only to find my harmonic balancer puller missing from the shed. So i have one on order coz that bastard Mr Nobody has borrowed it and moved interstate. I was thinking of putting a patent on my little gizmo but I'm sure it exists out in the world. And I know it works in both directions.
  15. 1 point
    Ha ! It has to fit inside a 14" wheel. That was my requirement also, & my combo worked perfectly. Not much clearance though. I remember the first time I had the wheels balanced, they stuck the weights on the inside of the rim, on the flat ... you guessed it, where the caliper was closest. Crunch, & they had to do it again. Off memory, the XT130 mounts were 90mm, & the RA65s were 100mm. I'll see if I can find my olde posts. Here is one of them, back in 2012. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/63524-ke-3055-brake-upgrade/ Cheers Banjo
  16. 1 point
    Ok, the Munroe ke20-55 shocks arrived today, look well built. Now the spacer in the wiki, is 5mm too long for this insert and I reckon if you turn 5mm off the length you'd be perfect. I'll do this tomoz and get photos, just in case. Issue #2 the ke20 spring I have is about 20-30mm too short to be captive. The spring i have has a free length of 240mm. It also is about 1.5-2mm too big in diameter to fit in the perch on the strut. I'd think with some mild heat and vice grips it would fit. A 270mm free would be about percect id think.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Starter motor not too bad but it is a relativley fiddly task. Anyone you can borrow a 1/2" drive rattle gun from? I have one, it has changed my life.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Looks really beautiful! Congrats man!!!
  21. 1 point
    #8778's have been a nil stock part number at peders for 10+ years. Oh and until feb they only have one #8716 (ke20) in the aus warehouse too. The rear shocks work well. Been playing on my front-end lately. Best off keeping an eye on the other thread I'll be posting what ive done there. Are you planning on keeping the transverse leaf?
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for all that info Pete! I already love the ol' girl. Just needs a bit of TLC. Which it's gonna get! (sorry bank account) haha
  24. 1 point
    I've just pulled the trigger on a pair. Will let you know how they fit when they arrive.
  25. 1 point
    Is he charging you for each inspection? Cause i do know "a guy" who is rather lenient.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply! My vehicle is: 1974 Corolla KE20 2 door Coupe Engine: 3K 1.2L (EDIT: it's actually got a 4K in it!) Gearbox/Trans: 5 speed (I think its a T50) Carbs: 2 x Webber 40 DCOE 151 New exhaust and extractors New "minilite" style rims with Potenza RE003's A bad paint job The previous owner told me (but I can't confirm) that it has a hot cam, new valves and pistons.
  27. 1 point
    Hi James, greetings from Costa Rica! From my experience: - Yes, is easier to fabricate a new metal wheel arc than buying one, it isn't that difficult. Unless of course there is a scrapyard near your location with any KE2x over there, but I believe is most likely to find gold in your home garden! - Are you refering to the upper soft vinyl part of the dash? Time to time, you can buy an OEM part on eBay, but be ready to pay the price (but with 40+ years of service, it is reasonable) https://www.ebay.com/itm/TE21-TE27-TE28-Toyota-Corolla-NOS-dash-pad-1971-1972-1973-1974-ke20-ke25-ke26/322376981566?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item4b0f2a5c3e:g:ZlsAAOSwDNdV0QyC&vxp=mtr - Is your engine a Toyota K series? 3k (1200), 5k (1500)? Or a T series? Is posible to tune a Weber 40 for this engines, but is easier do it with a set of Weber DGV 32/36 (good torque, increase hp with good MPG). Now, if you want power with reability, always is better to put a modern engine, like a 4AG (140+ hp)...but you need to make new engine mounts, new gearbox (T50), a good differential, and if possible updated suspension, and of course, brakes. - I installed a Toyota Hilux brake master with servo, but had to make an adapter plate of 3/8" steel, with holes for both the firewall and the brake master base. Also, I fabricated a new longer pin from the pedal arm to reach the master. - On eBay, you can buy front and rear fiberglass spoilers based in TRD ones, here are the links https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-Corolla-TE27-TE25-KE25-KE20-rear-wing-duck-tail-Spoiler/182885284655?hash=item2a94cffb2f:g:7YIAAOSwrklVClcM&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Front-lip-spoiler-for-TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE20-KE25-TE27-sheet-metal-1-32/232563221392?hash=item3625d92390:g:ROQAAOSw7bpZjzPE&vxp=mtr - Other places to check for rust: front fender's low anchorage points with the main body, lower door's rocker panels, the lower radiator frame, the weld seam between the inner rear wheel arches and the main body, and the airbox floor (for me, the airbox is the part above the firewall where the plastic air intakes are, and the external air is draw into the cabin). This last one is especially important, because with over 40 years, and no corrosion protection in this zone, the water can found it's way to the cabin, soaking the floor mats and leaving that moisture smell I hate so much :( Hope this can help you, and welcome to the KE2x and TE2x owners club!!! José Garro, Costa Rica
  28. 1 point
    Soft mounts are tricky. They have to be tight enough to hold pressure on the rubber O-rings & seal, but loose enough to allow the engine vibrations to be absorbed. Hence the Thackery washers. The 20mm odd thick rubber ones are great, but the little thin one-piece O-ring types just fall apart after a year or two. If you don't have any there's a chance of the fuel in the bowl becoming a foam at certain revs, but that may never happen.
  29. 1 point
    And wow, what a difference getting rid of those made. It now starts turn key when cold, settling to a smooth idle without any nursing.
  30. 1 point
    Chobis...thank you much for the encouragement........ I keep plugging along, in no rush to get the projects done. I drive my 2 cars which are legal and love every minute of it......I get a few waves and smiles but not as much as I would like. I come down the street in a 74 SR5 te27 and I want a parade....has not happened yet, but I keep looking. I think the market is in a lull for J tin. I saw a Mechum or Barret recently and saw a 1969 datsun on the block....do not remember what happened but it was there. that is what is needed to increase the desire for our cars.....Jay Leno buys a 1974 corolla......watch what happens after that. anyway, no time for panic.....just keep doing what we are doing and as they say...For the Love of the game.
  31. 1 point
    Nice progress! Glad to hear it goes good. I donot t run softmounts on my twin webers at all. Also use bolts from carb to manifold and not studs as I am limited with space to the strut tower
  32. 1 point
    Took it for a roadie last week, basically its first drive in anger since I've owned the car. It soon became apparent that there was a discrepancy between my forward trajectory and the orientation of the steering wheel. I hadn't really noticed in the yard! This was duly noted by the inspector and tie rod ends were earmarked for fixing. I've purchased a nine piece front end rebuild kit from ebay ($250 delivered) and I'll get it up on my mates hoist this weekend - now that CTP has been paid and I can drive it there. Redline carburetor soft mounts are shit. You can't do them up tight. Petrol pooled in the manifold and dripped out below the soft mounts, appearing as an oily substance. This was also noted by the inspector so I'm removing the soft mounts and replacing with gaskets that arrived today. A plug cut reveals richness - hopefully I can lean the idle jet out a bit once it's satisfactorily sealed. Goes good but. While he was being picky, he noticed that the exhaust just touched on the underbody in front of the diff. I'll have a tinker with that while it's on the hoist. Getting there!
  33. 1 point
    How far does the "its not sold unless I have cash in my hand" Extend? Friday arvo i spot an air compressor advert on gumtree, advert been up for 2hrs, i sent a message on gumtree to confirm it was available, guy gets back to me quite quick says yep. so i call him up, nice enough guy, I tell him im at work 2hrs away and wasnt sure what time i would be home but i would like to buy it could i pick it up on saturday at 9am? dude sais yep not an issue, he gives me his address, we realise he is 3 streets away, we have a bit of a chuckle, all good. I make a comment i hope it fits in the car, he offers to deliver it to me, i said i should be ok. all is good i hang up happy i got a compressor. 30mins later, "sorry, its been sold already" Thinking maybe he meant the message for someone else I rang him back, same dude aswers but commpletely different attitude, i say hey we just spoke about the compressor but you sent me a message saying it sold was it a mistake? He sais no its not sold until the cash is in my hand, someone just came and picked it up. I'll be honest i was kinda half in shock at what i was hearing and sort of gave a bit of a rude comment and hung up. Yes it was just an air compressor, yes it was only 200bucks, but daaaayymm is this how people operate? I understand some people might not turn up after organising to a time but do you just ignore the verbal contract. no "hey someone just called and is coming tomorrow but if he doesnt take it you are second in line" He ran a business too, guess where i'm not getting my metal signs made....ever.
  34. 1 point
    Aftermarket extractors have an advantage that they are separate from the inlet manifold, & pull up to the head independently. However, the flange tips of the inlet manifold & extractors can be different depths, making it difficult to get a thick washer to pull down firmly, & parallel to the head. You could probably grind down the thicker flange tip on the outside to match. If you have a standard setup, then the inlet & exhaust manifolds are bolted together, with 4 off bolts. If you can loosen these slightly (good luck), then pull the manifolds up to the head, (without gasket) then tighten the 4 off bolts holding the manifolds together. Remove the manifolds from the head, & they should now be in the same plane, across the mounting faces. The problem with this suggestion is that the 4 off bolts will be so tight in the threaded section, (which is in the exhaust manifold), that they will break off, whilst trying to undo them, & then you have the need to drill them out & retap them. Cheers Banjo
  35. 1 point
    say whaaat. ive had 2 cracked ecu boards in my time hahah. nissan pulsar 1990ish and mazda 323 astina BJ series 2000sumthing.
  36. 1 point
    I was playing with one recently that was sluggish. I found the cat was blocked and the igniton timing was retarded. I would also check that the tvis valves are shut under 4000ish rpm and opening after wards On a car of this age, I would flush the fuel injectors, change the fuel filter and clean out the throttle body (carby cleaner). This is more updating the maintenance than fixing issues. It's common there will be gunk between the throttle butterfly and the housing, reducing air flow at idle.
  37. 1 point
    Just for reference this is how they fit stock guards with chopped springs. 185/60. Thanks for the replies
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    what sort of distributor has this thing got? is there any centrifugal advance on it or is it all electric? I ask because it kinda sounds like its simply lacking any timing. thats how my 4k ran when i ziptied the mechanical advance together for testing.
  40. 1 point
    Well there are mechanics, and then there are mechanics. I would do a compression check, make sure the cam timing is right, ignition timing is right & replace the fuel filter. Then I would go here http://www.aeu86.org/technical/ae86-manuals/ and download the 4AGE Diagnostics manual. It looks complicated, but really it isn't. Make sure the throttle position sensor is set properly and follow the various diagnostic charts. You will need a multimeter but they aren't expensive. These engines are pretty foolproof, as long as the sensors are set correctly and the basics like compression and timing are correct. ECU's don't fail, neither do coil / igniters. Keep it simple and work through methodically and it will run great.
  41. 1 point
    Beams is awesome but you are at the 4age level with your experience and budget. Keep the Beams goal for another day. Budget is pretty thin IMO, you will spend twice that to install and maintain a 4age engine. Especially if you aren't a guy with a welder and fabrication skills yet. 16v 4age are all old now, you'd be hard pressed to find one that didn't need work to freshen up, and you could even say the same about 20 valves now, with the last ones being made well over a decade ago. Beams would be ten grand when done, easily. There are gearbox length issues to overcome, tunnel sizing, mounts, fuel system. Brakes unless you want to die. Easy 10k DIY, or 25k at a shop. SO the 4age, if you can find a motor and box for cheap, Id try to use carbs on it. Fuck efi, just use an ecu for timing and disconnect the rest. A simple Weber or some solex carbs and tune it. No need for fuel system, sell off the efi bits for the 4age that people want and then you can probably hit your budget. You can use the standard ae71 mounts and crossmember and pedals. 600 - ae71 parts 1500 motor and box 1000 carby and jets 800 - Exhaust, Radiator, hoses, fans, wires, clips and miscellaneous bits and pieces. 500 Programmable ignition Bit over your budget but you would get to sell a few bits off the rwd 4age like the inlet manifold -$220, the Map sensor - $40, the injectors - $40, the engine wiring loom - $200 if you were going use carbs and not efi. The beauty of the carb system is that you dont have to rip out the tank and fit an afi fuel system, which is one of the most un enjoyable bits and a costly exercise.
  42. 1 point
    Becareful coming all guns blazing.....I am all for good discussions, but you might put people off:) I've never heard of anyone say engine run on is because of advanced timing, like you say the second you turn off the key the spark plugs stop. The most obvious cause of engine run on is when the engine is so full of burnt carbon that the carbon stays hot enough to ignite the fuel mixture that is still being drawn through the carby. And this is either caused by residual fuel between the carby and engine, or that fuel solenoid valve sticking on. Running a heap of "seafoam" or "subaru upper cylidner head cleaner" through the engine will take care of this carbon and put an end to the running-on issue. All my engines have always had the head off and cleaned early in my ownership and ive never had any dieseling issues. In fact all the years playing with carby engines ive never had dieseling issues. The only time ive ever seen it is on engines that are completely stuffed and is a miracle they run at all. Maybe prolonged used of overly advanced timing causes excessive carbon build up? Maybe that's where the myth comes from. Never ever heard of it myself though.
  43. 1 point
    Wowzer they are very cool.
  44. 1 point
    After all these years, it really is the gift that keeps on giving. And to catch out a senior member, what a time to be alive.