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Quite often the flange for after market headers is thinner than the original exhaust manifold AND INTAKE MANIFOLD, so it doesn't get clamped down properly in the middle where the bolts have to bridge across both. Have have to shave the ears of the intake manifold down to the thickness of the exhaust so they both get clamped evenly

" these are poorly welded and or warped"... Likely... When we weld a manifold it gets bolted to a head beforehand to minimise the warping. What does a straight-edge along the whole extractor face show? The middle two bent to one side or not parallel vertically?? The best answer would be to get them ground flat right along the mating face, which would be good if it was $100 or less. It would be cheaper to heat the middle pair up with an oxy/acetylene set and twist them to the right place once red-hot. Simple to heat up, but hard to get lined up just right. You could try lightly bolting just the headers on and heating them up, then pulling them flat with the bolts when soft. Unless the bolts/nuts pull it straight and flat, then the gasket will blow out all the time. Was it up to torque when you put the feeler gauge down it?

That is a strange one. Have you upgraded your headlights or the bulbs recently ! There is no headlight relay in the early Corollas. The headlight current passes through the contacts in the headlight switch on the column. I can only suggest that when the headlights are switched on, the +12V to the dash assembly drops off somewhat. The fuel guage is fed by a regulated voltage less than 12V, so that the guage always reads correctly. Are the headlights a bit dull also. I would measure the +12V at the steering column, with the headlights on & off, & see what the difference is. The regulator for the fuel guage can use a 7, 8, or even 10 volt regulator If the head lights are dropping the +12V supply to the dash, to less than 10 volts, that may be what is causing it.. My suggestion; is to have the headlight switch control an automotive relay only. Use the relay's contact to switch the +12V directly from the battery, via a 15A automotive fuse; to the headlights. P.S. Have a read of recent thread, which may help you shed some light on the issue. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/85671-ke55-cluster-not-working-properly/#comment-738595 Cheers Banjo