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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/01/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    i have already bought the motor and transmission from a mx5 91 mdl it's going in. the info i am looking for is. has someone done this before. what can i do before hand to make my life easier while doint this. no reason to reinvent the wheel. do i need the fabricate the transmission tunnel or the firewall ? ( this is essentially my first "small car" build. i originate from iceland. and have built a couple of "superjeeps" ) - so i aim to do everything myself. i got the motor + gearbox, +ecu + radiator + driveshaft ( for about 350-euro. ) to start with my plan is to get it up and running. and keep it stock. the stock internals of the B6ZE seem to be able to handle 250 bhp if you add a turbo kit to it. ( that is what i am aiming for, so simple and nice )
  2. 1 point
    Thanks man! Looks well here for now. Brought it on local shop for fenders and door alignment, minor body repairs and paint restoration. Rusted parts are removed and replaced by fabricated sheet metal.
  3. 1 point
    I dropped mine 1.5 inches and used Mk1 AW11 MR2 strut inserts (kyb 363046) and Mk2 2 Ford Escort rear shocks (kyb 343020). I have purpose made 1.5 inch lowering springs that fit the existing struts and am using 1.5 inch lowering blocks on the rear. Only issue i had wxs the need to bush the strut insert tops by about 15mm to stop them knocking. I am running 13 inch alloys with standard fitment pcd with 0 offsett and 185 60 13 tyres with no mods to bodywork and handling and tyre wear is perfect. Hope this helps.
  4. 1 point
    Hi Bayley, If your car has a "ballast" resistor attached next to the ignition coil, short it out with a piece of wire, from one terminal to the other. Try starting your car again. If it runs this time, when you let the key spring back, then your ballast resistor has burnt out, or gone open circuit, & will need replacing. If that fixes it, it is an easy fix. If it doesn't fix it, then give us a yell, & we'll try something else. Do not run this for anymore than a few seconds, as this technique may try to keep the starter motor turning, depending on how the wiring is currently connected. Cheers Banjo
  5. 1 point
    New panard rod mount and diff pumpkin clearance mod done.
  6. 1 point
    Note I’ve measured to the centre of the factory hole in the centre of the tunnel reinforcement
  7. 1 point
    I was going to see if I could get by with just the pair, but why make it hard for myself. I happened to buy the first two on a ‘trade day’, so got $50 of next purchase. So another pair for $179! Next thing is to sort out some long span shelving. I’d hoped to go with a two post hoist, but just not enough room unfortunately.
  8. 1 point
    Got these Konig Rewind the other day. Size 14's
  9. 1 point
    I like the idea of machining up your own new housing to mount the sensor. That way it doesn't really matter what dizzy you use! I wouldn't do it to the electronic one you bought. Just find some old points dizzy some one will give you for free. All you really need is the bottom end of the shaft (and still able to drive the oil pump) and the boss where the whole thing gets clamped down. Then weld, or a nice machined slip fit housing to go over the top. Fit the sensor (that's not real hard there's pics of it in my build thread, I just made up a little adapter plate) and weld the top of the SR shaft to the bottom of the k one. Raid the pantry for a lid (the spun steel on mine is a coffee jar lid 😂) and you're done!!
  10. 1 point
    Hey Taz, thats awesome, and certainly great news that its reliable. I assume you fitted it to the bigger bosch diff housing? what ecu were you running? however i might see if i can grab the parts and hack up a new dizzy i bought off ebay and make it fit as yours looks like a nice solution. I was very intrigued how banjos water pump conversion was working out as well as that sounds like it has legs but you would still need the crank position sensor so the ecu know when it hits tdc. you can always a stripped down dizzy for the crank position and have the water pump as the crank angle.
  11. 1 point
    I used SR20 internals in the k dizzy housing. Looks just like the module pictured above. Never had the slightest issue with it since fitting.
  12. 1 point
    Wow bargain! And a very nice wheel
  13. 1 point
    A pile of ancient bronze beer tankards on their sides? Prehistoric hammers from before they invented handles? A pile of scombs from that game like curling... whatsitname..
  14. 1 point
    My friend, that looks like something a pensioner cobbled together, they certainly arent factory.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Rob. Its Craig here. You might remember this little guy I built a few years ago.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Oh wow, my old toy. Wish I had seen it Mark, decided to hunt it down today to see if I could find it to buy it back. 1 month too slow it would seem.
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