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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Don't over think it. whatever the manual says grade wise, and whatever brand name oil is on special at the time. and change it every 6000ish km. For years i bought penrite oil. for no other reason than Dad always bought Penrite oil. And he bought Penrite cause his dad bought penrite oil. Then one day i bought shell or something cheap (but something brand name ish, around the $30 mark, not $60 penrite). And my engine didn't explode. So i kept buying the cheap oil. Years later, no engine explosions and plenty of spare cash.
  2. 1 point
    Hi over here, long time no see, I'm back with another car. I already was here but no pictures are left on the old threads Many moons ago I had this KE71 That after a lot of hardwork came out looking like this And after a while without a RWD Corolla (I had an AE101 Corolla) I came across this, and I'm the proud owner of an 1973 Toyota Corolla, also known as mighty TE27. As a bit of history, the Toyota dealer for Uruguay is AYAX and it didn't import any Toyota until the 1980's so anything before that is very strange, so when I came across a sale post that reads "Toyota Corolla 1973" I had to have it, so I went to see the car, this are the first pictures I took... the previous owner fidieling with the engine interior shot After working for a while under the rain we made the engine idle and sort of run as it should, quite a feat considering that the car haven't been started for almost 5 years, after it heat up a little and it was not dying, we took it for a "test drive" given it very sorry state the car run great, much better than what one would thing after those pictures, and with that the deal was made After almost a month of back and forth with the notary, all the paperwork came clear (very important and tedious step in my country) the car was legally mine, and so the journey begins. As you can see the car is very very very (did I mentioned very) rusted, but is the only one that I know of in my country so I will try to do my best to restore it to it's former glory. I have many pictures to update this thread so I will try to do my best.
  3. 1 point
    Just an update, the ecm came in yesterday. I installed it and it cranked right up. Going to try and get the gauges working and I have a brake caliper stuck. Thanks for the help troubleshooting it.
  4. 1 point
    Started this this morning and it was slow to start and running on 3. The unplugging of coils and the lack of temp in exhaust pipe indicated cylinder 4. Pulled plug, it showed no signs of fouling, so no spark at all really! I swapped to OEM coil, fixed! It ran smoother than it has yet on the new throttles. I messed around and swapped to yellow jackets when diagnosing a miss while working out the itbs calibrations, it was just fouled plugs, not coils. There the yellows remained, but a few times lately I had not had the drive I expected under hard acceleration, knowing what I know now, I assume it had a miss under load, and eventually this degraded to a miss at idle, so I guess I can surmise that the yellow jacket product is rubbish, and put them all in the bin and save my money for oem coils if I ever need, I have a full spare set on my other motor anyhow that are perfect after 78000ks. The yellow jackets were good for 3 weeks, maybe 500ks. I already sent one set back that seemed to create a miss. Unacceptable. OEM is best for ignition parts. Car is going better than ever now at least. I did notice a substantial increase in fuel economy. From 8.9 to 9.9klm/litre around town. This I can attribute to extra efficiency getting air into the engine. This is all a little surprising considering I added fuel here and there to the map compared to before, and extra transient enrichment. I drove it rich for a bit, and have continued to trim the maps as required in the logs to optimise. Basically, that's amazing economy for the first tank running in some new itbs and tuning them. I think I need a highway economy test drive, somewhere about a 550klm round trip to see if I can get it on one tank.
  5. 1 point
    There is heaps of adjustment in the rockers. I decked my head to go from stock 32ish cc to 26cc. Flat top pistons and cam with 11.5 mm lift. Used all stock gear
  6. 1 point
    Depending on the cam specs, try going at least 11:1 compression. For example: 270deg with 10.5mm valve lift needs 11:1 static compression to function properly. Kent cams have stiffer single valve springs to suit mild cams like the one I mentioned. Also decking the block will help with optimizing quench and getting the compression up without shaving the head to the point of collapsing in the water passages. Rally engines here in Finland have usually pistons protruding 0.5mm from the block deck surface. Too many videos on youtube with angry cams and nothing done with compression... They sound like shit and won't go anywhere.
  7. 1 point
    And until next time my favorite photo of this car...
  8. 1 point
    Hi Goose, There are a few cam grinders in both aus and NZ that have a list of 3k profiles available, pending on your use and goals. Heavy duty valve springs are a good idea, as your new re-ground cam will probably have more valve lift, and if you want to rev it will support high rpm operations. Increasing your compression ratio will definitely wake it up. Wether you work with decking your head or getting another, will end up with the same result. I would suggest at least 10:1 compression ratio. Both vavle springs and head decking can be looked after by an engine machinist. While you are there, try getting the bores oversized to increase the capacity, as you can't beat cubes. Genuine toyota gasket kits will be your best option, as aftermarket head gaskets, rear main seals and sump gaskets can cause issues. This company has pistons etc http://www.precisionintl.com/Engine.aspx?ID=1728&EID=13084 I have started a Facebook page on performance k series engines https://www.facebook.com/groups/231132903963672/requests/?notif_id=1520517331304944&notif_t=group_r2j&ref=notif
  9. 1 point
    Yeah, it's a rear wheel drive, black bumpers. I found a pin out of the ecm on this website. I have power to batt and b+ at the ecm, and good grounds. Also pin STA which is "ecu start signal" is hot. Here are a couple more pics. Not perfect, but to me nice for an untouched 1983.
  10. 1 point
    Phew! You need to get your nan to write up a tutorial. I think we all have those little areas to blend in
  11. 1 point
    thankfully both of mine are still intact... I can imagine the cost of doing such a thing is not very atttactive. ^^
  12. 1 point
    Hi Scott, Welcome aboard ! it sounds like the wire you replaced from the battery, was probably the "fusible link". If it was thicker, you would probably have described it as a cable. Not sure whether a 34 year old Starlet had any form of reverse polarity protection, built in, on things like the EFI controls. Generally, electronics does not take kindly to have reverse polarity applied. You need to go through everything electrical in the car, with a check list, of what still works, & what does not. That may provide some additional clues. Horn, lights, gauges, fans, etc. My guess is that it will electronics failure, most likely. As the main electronic device is the ECU, & it is the engine that will not run, then that is probably the culprit. Remember, the EFI Starlets had conventional distributor ignition, so that will be why you obtain a spark. The ECU, to my knowledge, has no control at all over the ignition system. The only quick & simple way to know whether the ECU, is your issue, is to substitute with a known working one. P.S. If wires going to the injectors are hot, then either the injector coil has failed or the driver that fires the injectors have failed & are permanently on. Cheers Banjo
  13. 1 point
    Went to put an amp in and ended up solid mounting the shifter, making it a short shifter and using skateboard bearings for linkage bushings. Solid mounts. Shifter extensions Made some extra supports as it still flexed a lot. Gear link skateboard bearing bushes went well until the 2nd one didn't fit. But it fit snug inside this socket, and the socket fit snug inside the linkage. Overall works amazing.
  14. 1 point
    So I've recently become extremely lucky in finding a very clean ADM ae86, It does however come with a 4ac. My plan is to eventually engine swap it but I was looking for more power than a standard 4age (If this came with a 4age i'd 100% keep it with the 4age, but since it comes with a 4ac I feel less guilty about swapping it)I've put together a small port 16v 4age in a ke70 (sitting around 120whp) and that thing was wicked fun but I've been bit by the power bug. My main question is should I swap in a gen 5 beams (eventually getting ITBs) or turbo a 4agze, my main ballpark power figure is around 200-250whp and yes I know most beams tend to already come stock 200ish but what would be more cost effective? getting a turbo 4agze to 250whp or a beams to 250whp (staying NA), I'm not poor but I'm also not drowning in cash, I have around a 10k budget and plan to do most of the work myself besides the wiring and tuning as Ive had engine swap experience already. The main purpose of the car is to be a semi daily (2-3 times a week) and track is 3-4 times a year. This will not be a DRIFT specific car but I would like to take it the occasional event for some fun. Ive heard of some dirty 4agze turbos hitting the 300-400hp mark so I'm wondering what it would take for hit 250, also ive heard some cases of beams hitting 240ish with just itbs so I'm very conflicted ahah, If you were in my position already with a car and a 10k budget which of the 2 options would you consider (I've got my heart set on a 4 cylinder Toyota engine so any other engine swaps Id rather stay away from such as sr20s, v6s and v8s) Again I know I'm not being very specific on power but I'd be fine with just 200 flat whp but if there is room in the budget getting between 200 and 250 I'd do it. Thanks for taking your time to read I've also attached a photo of the car ahah
  15. 1 point
    I doubt he really cares as the thread is 13 years old.
  16. 1 point
    I think the soul of the ae86 is some kind of aspirated abused 4 cylinder so beams with itbs is the go for me from those choices. You can do pretty much any late model 4 cylinder with enough research. Im wondering when someone will cobble together a ford/mazda 2.5 litre duratec rolla.
  17. 1 point
    It really does look lovely.. What diff are you planning? What gearbox?? What clutch? You out of the comfort zone for both 4AG and 3SG with 250bhp, so I don't see the T50 gearbox or T-series diff taking it. The J160 will last a while, but not forever. The J160 Altezza box is bulky, although we haven't tried to fit it to the KE70 yet & I expect some panelbeating will be needed. The shifter tower is tall and long, so cutting the tunnel ahead of the gearlever is expected. There are a couple of adapter plates to put the J160 onto the 4AGZE, but simpler would be to leave it on a 3SGE. That would solve the clutch problem too. However that's a very tall motor, so you might run into fitment problems. Then again, the 4AGZE drops straight onto your crossmember, I'm pretty sure the 3S wont. The 3SGE is all revs, nothing much happens until 4000rpm plus, so I expect the 4AG to be more realistic to daily. You should get more mid-range torque from a turbo 1.6L to overtake the 2L 3S, although the 3S will be easier to set up and tune. In the end it will be more daily than track car, so it needs to be pleasant to drive. I dunno, there are pros and cons on both sides, you'll have to sharpen the focus on what you want the car to do and how much work each option will take. Talk to TRD KE70 about the rally car they built, they will know what gear you need like a clutch & diff to fit a 4AGE with a J160..
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Damn thats a clean looking ae86. not many left like that.
  20. 1 point
    Here is the wiring diagram, if anyone wants to wire up a thermo-fan & a thermo-switch to their Rolla. I know a thermo-switch is quite capable of switching the radiator fan motor directly, but I like to use a 30A auto relay, so that the thermo-switch contacts don't arc, with the inductive switching current of the fan motor. The 3 position switch is not really necessary, & could be dispensed with. I put it in there, for three reasons. 1. So as I experiment with the coolant system whilst I drive, I can simply turn the fan on of off, allowing me to force the coolant temperature up or down. 2. Bypassing the thermo-switch allows you to start the fan early, if you know you are going to be putting a heavy load on the Rolla engine, like doing a hard run up to the Toowoomba or Cunninghams gap hills. 3. If you ever have to do a water crossing, it's nice to have the option to turn the fan OFF completely. The last thing you want, is the fan acting like a boat propellor, & covering your engine bay in water. Cheers Banjo
  21. 1 point
    I’ve finally finished the thermo-fan conversion, where I used a Toyota Echo aluminium radiator & fan assembly. I wired it up with a relay, & a Tridon TSF106 thermo-Switch with a 90 Off / 95 On, switching points. The results have been amazing. It has changed the KE30 driving experience dramatically. As others have noted, the first thing you notice is how quiet the car is. I had no idea, the old plastic fan there continually thrashing at the air, created so much noise. I also fitted a Hi Flow Tridon thermostat, P/N TT2040-180, which according to the specs, allows about 30% more flow, when fully open. It controls over the range of 82 – 87 deg C. The modification was dead easy, & it was if the Echo radiator was made for the KE30. The following pics give a good indication of how easy it was. Believe it or not, I only drilled one hole in the body for the threaded rod for the radiator hold-down clamp. If anyone wants to do this mod to their Rolla, I’m only too happy to offer specific assistance, or more detailed pics of the mods. Even the “plumbing was relatively easy. I was able to use another KE30 lower radiator hose, & the existing upper Echo radiator hose, to connect to the radiator to the KE30. Even the tube to take the radiator water to the water pump, was easily fashioned from a discarded S.S. vacuum cleaner tube/handle. The Echo radiator fan motor draws about 7-8 amperes, & should be fused separately, directly from the battery. The control relay should also be fused separately, & not supplied by the ignition switch, so that the fan can run on, after the engine has been switched off. I also added a 3 position (ON-OFF-ON) switch, so control of the thermostatic control of the fan could be overridden, either ON, or OFF. An LED indicator next to the switch, indicates when the fan is on. I also sent this signal to the data logger, measuring & recording various temperatures, to indicate when the fan is on. The most amazing & surprisingly advantage of the mod, was the extra power that the engine displayed. I had no idea, how much power, the engine driven fan, continually drags from the motor. The Echo aluminium radiator, is so much more efficient in removing heat from the coolant, than the original KE30 unit. Altezzaclub, has continually said that his thermo-fan, does come on much at all. Mine did not come on at all, whilst driving. Admittedly the temperature here are around 30 deg C at the moment, so I expect, that may change at higher ambient temperatures, and more city stop/start driving. The graphs indicate that during an hour of driving, the fan only came on twice for a total of 90 seconds. The first fan operation, was where I stopped to let my daughter out of the car, at the bus station, for a couple of minutes, when I did not turn off the engine. It ran for 30 seconds, then switched off, as soon as the car started moving. The second fan operation, was when I got home, & parked the car. I got out, locked the car, & walked away, only to hear the fan start up, about 1 minute after the car stopped. I hung around, to see how long it over ran. In 60 seconds it shut down. I will continue to monitor its performance & make some small tweeks. I still have to replumb the rear head return line to the top of the radiator, under the thermostat, instead of the water pump inlet. Although rear & front of head coolant temps are within about 3 deg C of each other, I think, this can be made even closer, by fitting a head gasket with no “block to head”, coolant holes blocked, & by decreasing the flow out through the front of the head, which will increase flow to the rear. I’ll take my KE30 for a good long country run in the next few weeks, & it will be interesting, to see what difference it makes to fuel consumption, as well the above mentioned benefits. P.S. I was a bit concerned that anyone doing this mod, might also have to upgrade their alternator, if it was the original Rolla 35-40A one. I wasn’t personally worried, as I upgraded to an 85A alternator a couple of years ago, which is also a fantastic mod with benefits. However, as the radiatior electric fan rarely comes on, so this really isn’t an issue. I also had on my list, to design & fit a fan run on, cut out timer, so that the fan cannot accidentally run continually, & flatten the battery. I probably still will, but it is really not going to be an operational issue. Cheers Banjo
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I sat in my garage for ages tonight And just stared at the pile of parts.
  24. 1 point
    SL versions in either KE15 or KE17
  25. 1 point
    I listened to a podcast today, whilst driving my Rolla, to drop off my daughter for uni, that had me asking the question of myself, “why am I so attracted to olde Rollas ?”. This question rolled around in my head for an hour or so, & I eventually, came up with the simple & most singular answer . . . . they are so reliable. The podcast also had me thinking about the philosophy of the people at Toyota, in the early days, when they started their design of a small car for the masses. It is not a co-incidence, that the name of their early models was the, “Publica”. Like many of us, here in Australia, if you are over 50 years old, your first introductions to “cars”, was either an FJ Holden, or an English car of some descript. I was no different. Our first family car was a Morris, & mine, & my two brothers’ first cars were either Hillmans or Morris/Austins. What I remember about those cars were, was that we were always working on them. They always seemed to break down. They were not reliable. I’m not talking about nuisance things. I remember my Dad’s big Morris Six, breaking a front stub axle once, luckily as he backed out of the drive; & my brother’s little Morris Minor once did the same thing. Being an “engineer” albeit in another discipline, I was attracted to things that were complicated & mysterious. Yes, I was one of those kids that pulled a wind-up alarm clock, completely to pieces, to see how it worked. I migrated to a “sophisticated” auto in my early 20s, & bought a Fiat 125 sports sedan. At the time, they used to advertise the Fiat, as “Have an Affair with a Fiat”. Well, the unreliability theme continued, & it wasn’t too long, before my “love affair” turned into a divorce. I had an 8 year tenure, working overseas in a developing country, & was completely over whelmed, witnessing Toyota vehicles punished & “ill-treated” & yet still continuing to function. I had a company vehicle (Toyota), but needed a second car for my wife. Second hand cars were hard to come by, but I picked up a KE20, that had rolled once, with a poor roof repair job, but that car was just so reliable, I was in awe. That experience, has changed the way, I think, & work, & design, forever. I am now a converted advocate of the K.I.S.S. principle. (Keep It Super Simple) And that is what is so attractive about the Rollas; they are so simple & well designed; some would say, “over designed”. So, what’s this got to do with the podcast. If you care to download it, or have a listen on-line at the following link, it will all become clear. http://www.abc.net.au/radio/programs/conversations/conversations-genevieve-bell/9173822 There is an interesting segment in the “conversation” about what people carry around in their cars, which is fascinating. There are some fascinating figures in there about how almost half the cost of the manufacture of the modern car, is the “electrical” system. The car has become so much, much more, than a vehicle to take us from A to B. Thirteen years ago, in 2004, we had a thread here on Rollaclub, about what we carry around in our boot. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/1287-what-do-you-keep-in-your-car/?tab=comments#comment-16463 So my question is . . . . What do you carry around every day in your car ? Not just in the boot. What do you carry around that is not part of the original car, when it was supplied new ? What added technologies have you added to your Rolla ? If you are busy, lazy, or like me; have so many things, it would take an hour to list, then lay them out on the drive way, & take a pic. If you are at all like me, you will listen to this podcast, & look at your car in a “different light”, thereafter. P.S. Later on today, I’ll post all my bits & pieces here. (this is going to be embarrassing !) Cheers Banjo
  26. 1 point
    As you alude to i think most fuel tanks sitting in a yard are going to be rusty too. My mate recently gave life to a 46yr old VERY rusty civic tank with this stuff. I saw the final product and i would highly recommend it. http://www.ppcco.com.au/por19.html Not cheap, and i dunno where he bought it from but damn it is a good product.
  27. 1 point
    I was really hoping to avoid spending money, but thanks for recommending master cylinder exchange at wynnum. I got the master cylinder and proportioning valve rebuilt there. It was in much worse condition than I first thought, the piston was seized. He took a look at the proportioning valve as well, and machined a new part for it, it was all very reasonably priced as well. I guess it does pay to spend the money to get it repaired right otherwise it probably would of just spread rust to the rest of the system and seize up brake pistons as well. She's looking good now
  28. 1 point
    Yerp. That is dedication. I like the actual painting, but holy moly i hate panel prep. Good on you for your persistence.
  29. 1 point
    Hooly dooly, that's some sheet metal skills and determination!
  30. 1 point
    I did most of the metal work and did, I do not have a paint booth and i'm not very good with painting so i decided to take it to a shop to get painted. So far its not looking too bad.
  31. 1 point
    Finally more of the car started to take shape again. Lots of hammering and heating and forming and welding! But it finally started to look like a car again rather than swisschess.
  32. 1 point
    One thing that was causing me some consternation was my inability to get a decent buff on the duco, despite numerous attempts. At my first Cars and Coffee outing it was clear that mine was the only car with swirl marks. And at night, it looked like nothing special at all. As with anything, you will all know it comes down to the right tools/product/procedure for the job - which isn't always obvious to the layman (i.e. me). In the end I got there though! I washed it with 1200 wet and dry, then I washed it again with 2500. That took care of the orange peel. SCA branded polishes just didn't work. At all. Turns out the product I needed is called "One step ready" which I picked up from DIY Colourfast at Lawnton. It apparently starts as an abrasive and rubs down to a cream in <one step>. I applied the One step ready with a foam pad from the same store, on an electric buffer and the swirls disappeared before my eyes. Only one burn through to touch up! Bah.. Swapping pads, I then hit it with Bowden's carnauba wax to seal in the glossy goodness, and buffed it off with a microfibre cloth. I'm very happy with the results now. Previously I was like, "It's ok for a 40 year old car" while secretly being envious of 2 pac painted cars. Now I know that acrylic can be just as good - it just takes some rubbing - with the right gear! I also applied some pinstripes.They're chrome, so it's a bit hard to make out in photos. But they've straightened my painted lines and add a nice *bling* highlight when they catch the light. Yeww! (That's what young fellas yell out to me)
  33. 1 point
    Here she is. Hope you like my KE20
  34. 1 point
    Those cars are really grateful to all the TLC you can give them. So the money spended this way, is a good investment! I divided my project in many steps over the years: step 1, rebuild all the suspension and brakes, plus electrical work here and there, a new exhaust system, replace external old parts with OEM ones (turning lights, plastic trim, rear lights, bumpers) and wheels plus tires. It has been like this for about 5 years now...I really hope to start next year the step 2: bodywork! Mine is a summer car: in rainy season, there is water inside the cabin because all of the rust holes plus 40+ years old rubber :( So my goal will be disassembly it all, and restore the bodywork to his former glory! Plus, reinforcements in strategic points for adding rigidity. Step 3: Paint work....step 4 interior. And the final step: new engine! The K series engine is a great little engine, and with the right parts, can give many smiles per gallon...but I'm worried about future parts availability. So my plan is putting a modern engine (4ag series always be my Toyota favorite engine, and with Webers, the sound is just addictive), and drive it another 40 years! Keep motoring! And for the grand finale, a family pic: The red one is a KE26 station wagon with only 30k miles! It was stored for about 20 years, when the original owner died. A couple of years in legal procedures, and at last I can enjoy it! Only the wheels aren't stock, but the 3k engine and 4 speed manual box were fixed to top condition. And my plan is keep it this way, forever and ever!
  35. 1 point
    Booking the head in for reconditioning this week - cams, valves, springs and computer to be ordered this week. I have absolutely no direction with the block though, will try to work that out this week too. I'll leave you with a bit of a teaser test-fit before I stripped the motor down.
  36. 1 point
    She's alive again! Thanks to a trusty local mobile mechanic :blush: Turns out there's a little bypass hose up under there, that had blown. New hose fitted, no harm done!
  37. 1 point
    actually the second strongest method of clamping a crank is level with the edge of the block like that, pending how much metal is on the other side, have a look at a deisel or an F20C, they have a split block design so the crank caps are virtually part of the second part of the block. The only thing more rigid is between two crankcases - ie: horizontally oppsosed engine like a flat 4. Now with that missing bit of metal that area with it's design already looks highly reinforced.
  38. 1 point
    well... that's all subjective to your engineer. personally, if i found someone who would allow ANY better-than-K engine into a corolla with stock brakes, i wouldn't want them engineering my car. any turbo motor with stock KExx brakes is a death wish there's also a clause in the ADRs that specifies that, even with the original engine, if you sufficiently upgrade the power output of a vehicle, you are supposed to sufficiently upgrade the safety systems (ie: brakes, seatbelts, etc) of the vehicle as well realistically, i don't think stock corolla brakes stop a stock corolla well enough, never mind one with a warm 4k like mine, or a big power motor like rob's or doug's. after having one full braking run in fook's ae35, you realise just how pathetic a single piston, 218mm solid rotor brake really is
  39. 1 point