Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/01/2023 in all areas

  1. Hi All, For anyone who has done a beams conversion on a KE55 using the stock intake, what brake booster/master cylinder did you use to clear? I have tried what the wreckers told me was a Starlet EP91 booster but the overall diameter was too large and fouled on the inner guards. Would also be interested in any pics of completed conversions. Thanks, Matt
    1 point
  2. Hi Mate ! What model 4K engine have you got. Is it a 4K-C or a 4K-U ? As you have advised that the 4K is "fully worked", I'm presuming the camshaft has been reprofiled ? Is this the same camshaft that was in the engine, before you had the crankshaft ground & new bearing presumanbly; or did you have the camshaft profiled or a new one fitted fitted at the same time ? We had someone else on here recently, with camshaft tiiming issues. I'll dig out the thread & link it here, & you can have a read, & see if the info therein, is relevant to your situation. Here is some it below . . . . . . I've been trying to find You a pdf version, on the web; of the "Yellow Bible", which the Toyota factory manual produced for the K Series engine. I have a hard copy which I purchased years ago. I covers every K series engine from the 2K to the 5K-C. I have just scanned the picture that is most relevant to your issue. When a manual refers to things like assembling & dissembling a car engine, they assume the engine is out of the car on a bench. There is a difference between the word "vertically", & "perpendicular." The K series engine block has the top of the block (where the head bolts on), & the bottom of the block (where the sump bolts on) being perfectly parallel to each other So when the block is on a bench being assembled etc. the keyway on the crankshaft is both vertical & perpendicular, assuming the bench top is level. However, when the K series is installed in the engine bay, it tilts over to the LHS, when you are standing in front of the grill, looking into the engine bay. I've never measured it, but it looks roughly about 15 degrees. You are looking at the keyway, & saying it is 20 degs out; or off the perpendicular, but your engine is in the car & already tilted, to the LHS. Your reference plane should be the bottom edge of the timing chain cover, which as the diagram above indicates, is exactly 90 degrees to a line drawn vertically through the crankshaft keyway. I don't know how else to describe it to you. Probably the best I can do, is show you a picture on Rollaclub, I took about 4 odd years ago, where someone else, had a similar issue to that which you have. Notice the engine is sitting on wooden blocks, supporting the engine on the block flanges where the sump is attached. Note the crankshaft keyway, is both vertical & perpendicular. If you want to read that post, then go to this link. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74223-worked-5k-problems-on-1st-start/ In conclusion, I don't believe that your engine needs to get pulled out. I believe the "timing error" you are seeing with the timing light, is caused by something else; probably vacuum problems. To stop any vacuum issues, causing timing errors, simply pull off the vaccum hose from the dizzy, so it cannot affect the advance at all. However, you must block the hose off, & any other offrices into the inlet manifold, so that the engine has a chance of getting the right air / fuel ratio. I hope this assists. Cheers Banjo
    1 point
  3. Completed my build about two years ago. Lithium setup with AC motor… regen braking… fun build!
    1 point
  4. wow how about that. nearly a year since my last post. well I m still alive and married and still have the project cars. soon to have a "proper" sized shed to put everything in so I can actually do something with these things too...…..
    1 point
  5. Hi Joey, Thanks for your answers & feedback. Before you go pouring money into your little KE35, a couple of other thoughts. The body is the basis for everything you will do to this car. If the body is not up to scratch, then you are putting good money after bad. Your pics indicate a pretty clean little car. What do you know about the history of the car, & from your close inspection ? Has it got any rust in it, or any signs of rust being cut out previously ? It the paintwork original, or has it been resprayed at some time previously ? If it's got lots of "bog" in it, then I'd give it the miss, for any sort of competition work. Cars in excess of 40 years old tend to get a bit "floppy" & unstiff. I've seen Rollas that age, doing a bit of "crabbing", when you follow them from behind. The pillarless coupes like yours are the worst. Your body relies heavily on the strength in the upper rear quarter panels, where there are multiple layers of metal, and they rust out in there, out of sight. If you take it to a good wheel alignment place, they'll be able to tell you how far out the back & front wheel alignments are offset. They can be jigged, & all the floor pan stitch welding, can be seam welded, which will usually pull them back in, & stiffen them up considerably. Jacking them up high on one corner & seeing how far the other side droops is usually an eye opener, & will give some indication of how "soft" the body rigidity is. There's a lot of inspections & tests you can do, pre spending money on it, that won't cost a lot, but could save you a heap down the track, if you discover "surprises" later on during the build. Cheers Banjo
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...