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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I have had to butcher up the dash in order to fit back in around the cage, the Carlos bars have made it really hard to get it back in. It has to wedge between that and the A pillar bar for to fit in, gonna be a nightmare to fit it in without scratching the cage up once it's painted, oh well it's a race car anyway!!
  2. 1 point
    Go lie under a few vans at the wreckers. They have leaf springd, 5-links, disc brakes.. all sorts. You can expect to modify mounts and brakes, but they will haul a load and aren't that much wider.
  3. 1 point
    What would you like?? I've got wiring diagrams, error codes and stuff for Altezzas, if that's the model 3SGE you have. PM me an email address.
  4. 1 point
    No it won’t, would need something else and everything would need shorting and modifications so not a cheap exercise
  5. 1 point
    I've got some custom ones basically the same, however. I haven't got the brake line clamp thing on the strut, how well does it sit down that low? because my thread for the coils goes quite a way down
  6. 1 point
    Do_eet. We all love to hate, but hey a project is a project. Get the welder out:D
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for all the helpful info, I think I may just be crazy enough to do it. When I do start piecing it together I might start a build thread, so be on the lookout. Thanks again! - Goose
  9. 1 point
    new clutch welding up the fuel tank for the track car new hi rise manfiold for the track car, its noisy as fff,, stainless... needs another muffler i think paint next for the trackcar
  10. 1 point
    The ke38 pattern is 4x114.3 not 4x100 No point changing the rear axle its too wide, would need custom mounts and also handbrake cables etc with no real gain If you actually just want 4x100 pattern you can buy adaptor spacers from 4x110 to 4x100 online
  11. 1 point
    Welcome Jon Have a look here which is quite a good start https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page#1x
  12. 1 point
    $0 looks about the right price:p
  13. 1 point
    Can I wade in on this one ? The thermostats for the K series engines are all 52mm diameter, across the top, where they fit into the "thermostat housing/water outlet". However, there are several different lengths, or depth, dependent on manufacture. I have one on the desk here, exactly the same as your first pic, with 25mm, below the "mounting" point. I have another that is only 20mm in this dimension. When the thermostat is mounted, there is heaps of room below the thermostat. (see pic below with 25mm thermostat inserted) This allows approx 18mm for the back of the thermostat to move down, when fully opened. That is more than enough, as the thermostat valve movement from fully closed, to fully opened is about 10-12mm at most. Your second pic of the Gates thermostat with the 35mm dimension, had me puzzled. Why would they design a thermostat with a temperature below 80 deg. In this case 78 deg C. The answer was fascinating. I discovered that that thermostat was used on early 90s Daihatsu Applause 1600cc engines. When I Googled Daihatsu thermostats, the often question was, I can't find my thermostat. It appears it is at the back of the engine, not the front, up high, & controls the cooled coolant, rather than hot water to the top of the radiator, as in the K series. "On the Daihatsu Applause 16 valve engine the thermostat is NOT located under the alloy housing that attaches the top radiator hose to the head. It is located at the back of the engine block, at the opposite end of the engine, just above where the alternator is situated. Three 10mm bolts hold the thermostat housing to the block. The bottom radiator hose is attached to the housing. All you need to do is disconnect the water temp sensor wire, undo the three bolts & push it toward the alternator. Remove the thermostat from the block replacing it with a new one. A rubber gasket fits around the outside of the thermostat & I used a little silicone on the gasket to hold the thermostat while you re-install the housing. Don't forget to reconnect the temp sender wire & fill with coolant." Obviously cooled coolant after it passes out of the radiator could well be 10 deg C lower than operating temperature. So if the 35mm thermostat is 10mm longer/deeper, than the 25mm one, then it protrudes further down into the chamber below the thermostat. So instead of 18mm of travel, that only leaves 8mm, with this thermostat. It might be borderline, as I don't know what the travel is the Daihatsu thermostat. Apparently, this is where it is fitted< & you can see the special housing is quite deep. But like Dave & Si, I see little need for lowering the thermostat opening temperature. Engines, are designed to operate generally at temperatures between 80 - 95 deg C. The thermostat is designed to do two things. 1. Get the coolant temperature up to operating temperature, just as quickly as possible, from a cold start, as this is the period where most wear occurs in an engine. 2. To control the coolant temperature in a band of say 4-5 deg C. So a 82 deg C stat, might open @ 82, & close @ 78 deg C. Even if you are in the desert, where the ambient & coolant temperature are 40 deg C, at a cold start, that is only half the temperature that the engine needs to be at. In outback Australia, where it is very hot, I know there are lots of people who remove the thermostat all together. There is no evidence, to my knowledge, that removing the thermostat, will increase coolant flow. The reason they remove them, is purely that water supplies are poor, and thermostats reliability is poor, & they don't want a siezed motor. Many motoring organisations, years ago, recommended replacing your thermostat yearly. However, in these days of modern high tech coolants, & more reliable themostats, there is no need for that. I don't think you are providing additional safety, by lowering the coolant temperature. If you are going to generate more heat, as a result of modified or operating conditions, of the engine, and it overheats, then you simply need a larger or more efficient radiator. The usual first step is to go from a 2 core to 3 core, as that requires no "bigger" radiator mods. Cheers Banjo
  14. 1 point
    Appears to be a big difference in paint when comparing pics at the top of the page to the latest. Awesome job. Ive been following this build for a while now, its always good to see a rolla built right threw to registered. Gives me motivation to pull my finger out and get cracking.
  15. 1 point
    Brendan all I can say is Yew! Looks amazing.
  16. 1 point
    Some stuff has actually been happening....... Te27 Pedal box all painted and re assembled Got some wheels - 14x6 SSR Mesh. I need it on wheels for the panelbeater so these are good placeholders until they get a refurb or something else could pop up. The lips are a bit scuffed and one is a bit bent, but they'll be getting widened once the car is done if I use them. Jig made! It's a bit rudimentary and the welds are hideous but the Leaf Spring perches in pretty much the exact right space - tape measure measurements agree with the chassis repair manual. Just need to make a little bracket to keep the face at exactly 90 degrees, but after that everything is you see is ready for some professional cutting and welding. Also had a big stash of bits arrive ready for all the reassembly. All genuine Toyota except for the eBay bushes....didnt really want to go down the nolathane/urethane etc path. Included with all the bearings and shims etc were 2 little ae86 pedal cushions.....I took a gamble to see if they would fit my te27 pedal box....ah yesssss. OCD satisfied. Before.... After.......perfik
  17. 1 point
    Same. But I reckon the one piece manifold gaskets are a good extra https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-3K-4K-MOTOR-HEADER-EXTRACTOR-MANIFOLD-GASKET/253046390465?fits=Make%3AToyota&hash=item3aeabd7ec1:g:PI0AAOSwYGFUrbTW
  18. 1 point
    got the gearbox back together the nigth after i took it out... been dailyin since that and gotten a job in a paintshop! doing my front end at work this weekend ohhyeee just threw all the extra gray paint together at work for free, turned out pretty good! a moose decided to photobomb my photo in the background haha track car is next!
  19. 1 point
    Ideally empty the tank as it can be surprisingly heavy when manoevering around under the car
  20. 1 point
    That’s the pressure line. The small nut as you call it is like a large brake line fitting, and screws into the body of the larger ‘nut’. To undo it, hold the larger ‘nut’ with a spanner and undo the smaller ‘nut’
  21. 1 point
    Well, a year on and its running around town as a daily for my wife. No problems with it, but with The Girls KE70 having the 4AGE I just don't get to use the Hoonicorn for trips. Our garage is part of the house, and with a Southery breeze the petrol smell comes inside after anyone's been out and about. I can't see any trace of fuel leaking from the SUs, so I assume the residual heat is boiling of fuel in the bowls, and it comes out of the air cleaner. I don't notice it really, but the wife certainly does! Maybe this will finally get a set of quads fitted and hopefully they won't do it. We'll see what the year brings...
  22. 1 point
    Lazy stupid ebay sellers. Guy sells me a manual for s motor. I paid on the day I won, the 21st of December. Waited patiently until just the other day. Guy asks whats up have I got it. I say no. He starts making excuses right away before I say anything much, so I got the shits and called out his bs. He had sent a message right as I won saying the Post office was closed when it was clearly still open until the 24th, so basically I immediately was able to work out what a fucking loser the guy was. I didn't press him until he messaged me on Australia day to 'make sure' I had it. Of course I didn't, and he had not sent a tracking number so I had no ability to do anything about it if I had wanted to anyhow. It was just on trust up until then, over a month after buying it, and he had just fucked around and didn't seem keen to fit a trip to the PO into his life on my behalf even after my funds were taken. So i was ready to write it off and get my paypal back at some point in the future. No point getting too upset. So I just got over the token customer care he was offering and told him to stop fucking lying and that I had no proof and if he wanted to be believed he could stop the lies and send a tracking number as every parcel auto has it now. So then of course he cant find it, surprise surprise. So I'm at the limit of my patience. I open ebay case. Fast forward another 3 days and all of a sudden case is closed and I get a snippy message from this little cunt flap saying that I should know better than to call an honest ebayer names and blah balah blah. Basically carrying on as if the closed case is somehow proof of his sterling character. LoL. What happened was he finally was able to find a tracking number, and then we get to find out it has been frustratingly waiting at the post office for a couple of weeks, so to him this absolves all his laziness, lies about Post office being closed, and his pathetic attitude towards following through and somehow pins all sins on me. So I message back saying pull your head in you need a slap, I apologise for nothing and you deserve worse. You fucked me around for over a month, and as long as you could fuck around you did, you didn't ever send me the tracking number, and when you finally do get it to me, it proves beyond a reasonable doubt that you just wasted weeks of my time, you act as if its my fault? If I could beat him to death I would. What an asshole. Basically took the transaction hostage. Lied about numerous things to cover his lazy tracks and then when finally able to produce the tracking I'm supposed to be thankful; weeks later, having been greatly annoyed and after immediately acting on all my parts of the deal. FUCK THIS CUNT. Joerex1 must die.
  23. 1 point
    Hi Keith, Did a bit of research, on suitable fan sizes that would suit the standard KE radiator, but the answer was right under my nose. I bought my daughter a 2004 Echo last year, & I went out and measured it's radiator & fan up this morning, & it is almost perfect. It's outside frame couling/shroud, is within a cm of the KE radiator core dimensions, in both directions. If anyone has utilised an Echo fan on a KE sucessfully, please give me a yell. I will get hold of one, & adapt it, using a spare radiator I have in the shed, then pop it in one weekend. On paper, it should be an easy & clean swap. I'll post a pic on here, when it is done, after which I'll do some temperature data logging exercises, with multiple temp points, to see exactly how well it performs. Cheers Banjo
  24. 1 point
    suspension is not suitable. Someone with an ae82 might like it. brake calipers could possibly be adapted with custom mounts and rwd disks. Take all the wiring if you plan to use the std efi system including the fuel pump. You'll figure out what you need of the engine stuff if you follow a guide/tutorial of how to convert it to rwd. I did a 4age 16v into ke25 and silvertop 20v into ae82 so I'm sure i can assist with the hard questions.
  25. 1 point
    What happens if you retard the timing to closer to 10 and make it idle by adjusting the idle.
  26. 1 point
    Not if the points are adjusted and installed properly. I ran points for years and never had an issue. Clean thw points with alcohol, Adjust the gap properly, set the damm timing with a light and you will get 10,000km at least without touching the points.
  27. 1 point
    For Sale $850 including paypal fees and shipping Diesel front conversion 1 grille with emblem 2 headlight frames 2 headlight brackets Paypal payments to [email protected]
  28. 1 point
    Sorry to drag back on topic but Ive heard a wierd bubbling noise from k motor that was overfull of oil and having the crank whip the oil into foam.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I have noted everything important that has been said by you more experienced members an I thank you :D Gotta take in all I can on my 3t-->ke20 conversion :)