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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/11/2010 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Here she is. Hope you like my KE20
  2. 4 points
    Hi Peter, To prove the issue is a defunct fuel pump, simply remove it, put a piece of tube on the inlet; put it in a can of petrol, & work the lever by hand, & see if anything comes out. If it doesn't, then you've solved your problem. If it does work, then look for a blocked fuel filter, or a blocked fuel line from the tank. I think you are nearly there ! To check the fuel line, remove petrol cap, and get someone to listen at the tank filler, while you blowing back down the line. Do not use compressed air. If there are any rubber sections in the fuel line, then these can break down inside & block completely, even if the line looks OK on the outside. Good luck ! Cheers Banjo.
  3. 3 points
    Hi Ben, Dave's suggestion is excellent, as having the genuine Toyota "Yellow Bible" on the K Series, is probably one of the best investments you'll ever make, if you are going to play with a K series engine. I got one early in my journey, which covers 2K to 5K-C, and it has been invaluable. Most functions of reassembling a K Series engine are straight forward, simple, & logical, but fitting the timing chain, & aligning the crankshaft & camshaft sprockets, is one area, where if you get it wrong, it can prove dissasterous, & cause a lot of frustration, after the engine is assembled & ready to test for the first time. By that time the engine is probably already back in the engine bay, & all hooked up. The alignment is critical, & is covered in the "Yellow Bible" & the Haynes/Gregorys manuals. Essentially the timing is carried out with the engine at TDC on no: 1 & 4 cylinder. The crankshaft sprocket should be fitted first to the crankshaft, with its key fitted. The crankshaft should then be turned slightly, if required, until the "dot" marking on the outer of the crankshaft sprocket is on the lower side of the engine, and is in line with an imaginary line passing through the centre point of both crankshaft & camshaft. (see diagram in pictures below) The camshaft is then rotated, without its sprocket until the locating pin for the sprocket, lines up with inner mark on camshaft retaining plate, which again, are all in line with the imaginary line, passing through the centre points of both camshaft & crankshaft. This is now the critical point. The camshaft & crankshaft cannot be allowed to move, whilst fitting the chain. With both sprockets on a flat surface, off the engine, fit the chain to both sprockets, such that when you pick up both sprockets & chain, that they slide onto the keyway (crankshaft) & locating pin (camshaft) without rotationally moving either sprocket. When fitted, a straight edge, (like a steel ruler) should line up with both outer sprocket marks & the centre points of both crankshaft & camshaft. Actually much simpler than it sounds, when you describe it, but it is important, because if the chain is out one or two links, then the engines valve & distributor timing will be out dramatically. Have a look at the relevant scans from the manuals below, & it should all gell, as "a picture paints a thousand words". P.S. The manuals refer to markings on the chain, which I've never been able to find, because the chains are old & discoloured. Whilst laying the sprockets on a flat surface, with a straight though the centre point of both sprockets, & sprocket markings, I've just put a dab on "white Out" on the relevant link at each end to assist. Good luck, & let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo
  4. 2 points
    Hey guys, I've been lurking here a while and finally thought it's time to post a proper thread! This story starts on the 3rd of October 2016, a day before my 16th birthday. For around 3 years I was looking for an r32 Skyline until I was convinced by my dad that a Skyline was the last car I'd want on my Ps, I knew he was right so I went on the hunt for a RWD, nice looking car that had that "cool factor" So I searched for a corolla for about a week and this popped up. Started as a full granny spec ke30, everything original and on the 3/10/16 I went to have a look. Instantly fell in love and went home very happy. Came with original papers, service history and warranty! The interior is very clean, however has the generic dash cracks. Only a few small rust spots that will be soon fixed. It also came with a welded diff, pain in the butt, I'm looking for another but finding it hard. Things I've done: - Hayashi TVRs 14x7 -7 - Michelin Energy XM2s - Tacho in clock hole - 1800w Sony subwoofer - 800w Kenwood amp - Sony Xplod 3 way speakers - JVC headunit - New coil - Refurbished the carby - And just a general tune up Things to be done: - Lowered by 2in back, 2in front. ✓ -Fender Mirrors ✓ - Full 2in exhaust with dual 2/2.5in blastpipes ✓ - Full respray (paint is very poor) - Duck tail - Front splitter ✓ - and generally just tidy it up
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Another day spent on the car with a bit of news probably worth mentioning to the thread. Have sorted more and more imperfections that we have discovered, as well as fixing some of the larger problems too. We decided to chuck on some high-build primer in a few of the more....wobbly areas. Then sand some off a bit, etc etc. All bare metals is covered currently so that's a bonus too. We are ever-more edging closer to the big day... Christmas? No no, the REALLY big day -painting the extieror of course! The primer has revealed a few more tasks that need to be sorted but it's all slowly coming together. -despite often looking the same as the last post. Regardless, It's progress. And it's welcome at that. This is the summer it's going to receive the luscious red! Then she'll be put back together and we'll go for reg at some stage in 2018. Supposedly my phone's having trouble with photos- I'll see what I can do..
  7. 2 points
    Season's greetings Rollaclub! Thanks to the admins and financial contributors who keep our projects, anecdotes, images and knowledge base online. Cafe racer burger run.
  8. 2 points
    She hasn't spent a day of her life in the barn. So sad.
  9. 2 points
    Hi James welcome to the forum. There is a great deal of experience and enthusiasm on here, and the forum is still pretty active despite the drift to faceplant. Other than some pretty dubious info given out on the FB sites, the other great advantage of the forum is that you can easily search for info, the vast majority of which has been asked before. Can't do that on FB. Also have a good look at the rides forum for some inspiration. It's actually quite easy to load photos by the way. The inner wheel arch plate has long been unavailable, and second hand ones are rarely usable. But not to hard to fabricate a replacement. Rust is common in the rear pockets, bottom of front guard (due t those plates) and the front and rear sills. Also under the rear quarter windows. Really after nearly 50 years, they can rust anywhere. Well worth taking out the seats and carpets and having a good look. VIN numbers didn't exist when these were built, so you rely on the body number. Virtually all after market parts are pretty poor quality, and the dash pads are no exception. OEM can still be got with a bit of hunting, but expect to be paying around $300. It's not hard to retrofit a booster with twin circuit master cylinder. It's been discussed often on the forum. A booster doesn't improve braking performance, just how hard you need to push the pedal. Won't actually stop any better. Spoilers I can't help with, but they were never available when new. Anything available is a generally a Bodge job and needs to be screwed to the body. Not really a great idea. Webers are a topic of their own and a lot depends on the condition of the carb/s themselves. Then it's about balancing and tuning, and don't forget the general condition and tune of the engine.
  10. 2 points
    Sorry, let me clarify that. Toyota ECU’s don’t fail. Mindful that you’re the guy who modifies carbie jets with an angle grinder as I recall.... Stupid app won’t let me put an emoji in, but I’m a bit old for all that anyway.
  11. 2 points
    What starts out as a cheap/free 4k, can end up costing a few grand when you get carried away building a track engine
  12. 2 points
    Long time no post.......2 business's and 2 small kids and buying the house will do that to your time and $$.....but....... KABLAM!!!!!! I've spent a bit of time working on my other Toyota project....to fund my other Toyota project..... I am waiting for space to clear up at the Panel shop to get the body work underway. In the mean time I've managed to track down a few panel cuts and some NOS to boot! There's been a few false leads of random shells around from as far as Horopito to the Phillipines.......Horopito turned out to be a ke35 and the Phillipines never eventuated. I am still excitedly waiting to hear on another potential shell. I was picking up some camera's for a video job and the guy had a 1200 coupe in the garage......as I usually do now, I asked him if he had a spare ke25 shell and turns out he does.......it is yet to materialise but I will keep chasing this up! Just need a drivers side now! Also have a complete rear panel (Taillight surrounds/lower valance etc) currently in the next ML Racing container form Japan. NOS indicator lenses - Much shiny goodness!
  13. 2 points
    I am really happy with the setup, nothing hektic about the drive at all. Tyre is a 225/50/15 drag radial bfg. A 24" tire. I'm really suprised how well they are hooking so will make it my goal to run a 9 on this tyre before i inevitably go to a 26" tyre. Previously i was using a 205/50/15 drag radial mt 23.5" tyre was quite amazed how well they hooked as well for such a small tyre.
  14. 2 points
    After all these years, it really is the gift that keeps on giving. And to catch out a senior member, what a time to be alive.
  15. 2 points
    In 16 years time... "The Girl's AE86"
  16. 2 points
    Here's a test bed I knocked up in a day recently, to mount my 5K engine on, to do some COPs mods/experiments. I was going to sit it on the engine test bed / frame I made years ago, but it's got a 4K EFI engine conversion on it at present, & I didn't want to really undo all the plumbing etc. I recently purchased an olde ride-on lawnmower, which I only wanted for the good Briggs & Stratton engine therein. I was intending to dump the mower frame, but thought, maybe I could attach the 5K to it. It would also allow me, to wheel the whole thing around, as I only have 2 car bays in my shed, & our 2 cars should be parked there each night. Anyway, it fitted perfectly, and is so easy to work on, as everything is accessible & it is all at working height. Thought I'd throw it up, as someone else on here might want to build a simple test frame. Here is a few more shots of it, if anyone's interested. https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhTw-QJW1b_6iCOx7jZvpWJvbGuU My wife came home from shopping & thought I had gone stark raving mad. She really thought I was fitting a Rolla motor to a lawnmower, as her first question was . . . "Where are you going to sit ?" Cheers Banjo
  17. 2 points
    Steve bought a drill seeder off Great-uncle Neville, so we went out to fetch that. Way to big to fit on a truck.. Luckily Neville is an engineer and had handy things like several 3/4" socket sets! ..and a tractor big enough to lift it! Sadly both the farm tractors are smaller adn lighter, but we got it to sort-of fall off.. That's another giant project to get working in a few years time! So now we can concentrate on emptying the stuff out of the big shed and finally getting a concrete floor laid! Meanwhile we've agreed to service for Leighty in his 240RS for the Orange Rally next month. If you're around look us up!
  18. 2 points
    Anything green, don't go for the red stuff as it eats out copper, brass and solder in older cars cooling systems, cheers!
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    So I made up a parts bath using a big old plastic container and mixing 50/50 degreaser-water and letting parts go swim for a day or so then water blast them and tooth brush clean them. Today I did the bellhousing, the gearbox outer casings, tail shaft housing and rocker covers are soaking at the moment. After a clean, has come up pretty good! I then set onto installing the new clutch fork assembly. Using all new OEM parts gives the peace of mind that everything will be all nice and dandy. Strange, can't get the fork clips new from Japan but found them on https://partsouq.com/ so that was good. The ones I had spare were all rusty. Clean backside/booty. always nice. I dummy fitted the new bolts to make sure I had them all. Found that I was missing the starter motor bolts so those will be added next to the OEM order which is already 20 items long. Today was a good day! I got my head back from Barry at MRP. Here are some photos he sent me of the head. No need to take my own. The head had to have some extra work done on it so that the 10mm+ lift cams were able to rotate without hitting anything. With receiving my head I also received the last few gaskets and bolts that I was after. Especially for the intake side of things so I could get these beauties bollted together. I installed the front input shaft seal, the output shaft seal, and also the spacer ring between the box and the input shaft that I forgot to install first time round. Nice new slave cylinder I am using OEM head studs so I have used the Toyota torque specs, so need to do the +90 +90. I just did it by eye with my last engine, decided to do it properly this time round. [ Fastforward an hour of fiddling around I got everything bolted together. I am still waiting on some new shims to arrive from Australia so I will have to wait a little bit before I can install the cams etc. [ With that, not long to go before i drop it down the guts into the KE25 and can finally start on another task. I am thinking diff shortening next. Hopefully less expensive than this engine! Today I received my new shims, installed them and also the cams. Pretty self explanatory. I a have still got to dial in the cams which I will do sometime next weekend whilst I wait for my Dial gauge to arrive. Nearly complete, I have also ordered a brand new alternator and a starter motor also for a good price. still have to order a knock sensor and get the water pump -> back of head lines fabricated with a braided line. Have to do this due to the original piping interferes with the knock sensor, and I am also not running a water based heater so I will not be using those that are included on the original hard lines either. I have also ordered the SQEngineering COP valley cover plate to suit the 2nz coils that I will be using which I should receive sometime this week. Ahh. So i made a bit of a large cock up. The cams were far too big for the original pistons, the valve reliefs were to small and when I was dialing in the cams the lobe was hitting the piston by a long shot. Instead of crying about it, I ordered some 82mm (2mm oversized) 12.5:1 compression pistons from Barry at MRP. Took my spare 7-rib block in to the machinists and got that block bored, cleaned and decked also. All is not lost with the other block, I will be using that in my AE86. I put some new frost plugs in the new block and gave it a blase of semi-gloss paint Whipped the head off of the old block Removed everything as it was instead of dismantling it (take pulley -> timing sprocket -> oil pump off, all to put it back on again) Went over to the NEW block, gapped the rings and dumped the goods in. Much better I set about to degree the cams, this time. No fowling on anything! Reconned alternator which is an 80A one It's nice to work on an engine and still have clean hands at the end of it. new bits e'ry where. So that's that for now, I will be installing the clutch and then putting it into the car next. Excited So, lesson. Do more research before completing an engine rebuild so you don't have to take all apart again.
  21. 2 points
    Hello all, about due for an update i reckon!! We got the car back from Havnadip with the rust repaired and body ready to go! Had the boys there really help us out and to them we owe thanks! With the car being beautiful and straight, we were ready for paint! So over the weeks trailing the car's return, we slowly readied her for the first glimpse of that beautiful Helios red. Lots and lots of prepwork. Masking, sanding, etc etc.. lots of time and effort. Both of which are a bit hard to find considering I'm now in Grade 11 as a student!! (Money, too!) One way or another, with the helpof spectrum paints, the boys from Havnadip, our mates from KTM hobart and a handful of others, she now has a glimpse of what is to be! The insides of the doors, boot and bonnet are now red! Next on the plate is putting them back on, then preparing the whole body for the final spray!!! Very exciting progress! and massive props to my dad, who has done a fantastic job spraying the sprinter. Especially considering how long it has been since he last did it!
  22. 2 points
    Hi guys names damo from the gold coast, have just purchased my first ke 30 corolla, have always been a fan looking forward to cruising soon when i finish a few bits and pieces and get some rego... Few pics of the car ive just purchased from ACT just needs some finishing touches :) Some rear venetians with factory wheels, hide that intercooler back behind a new grill and front bar should be a nice little sleeper...
  23. 2 points
    The first wave of mass communication on the internet was all based off of real life, a real world translation of life onto the internet. As such it was long format, and we celebrated the technology by using it well and appreciating it, as we didn't have it before. We stockpiled information. Never before could we find and connect with other enthusiasts as easily, so there was a long honeymoon period. Now our generation is older, and we are now in the minority of users of the internet as the younger generation just lives on their phones. They have grown up taking for granted the connectivity provided by the devices and also they have grown up in need of instant gratification. Forums dont provide this, social media does. Forums demand you are enough of a human to fit in, work with others, and make detailed explanations to help others out. Facebook is the absolute opposite. Time and time again I see misrepresented sales, bs claims, incorrect info, basically what I would delete off RC most likely, but its protected on facebook as the mods dont care. WHy would they, in 24 hours nobody will ever find the posts again. You can write any bs, ask any question without so much as a precursory search first, and just generally all feed into and accept each others frustratingly short spans of attention. They just dont know better, and will always suffer next to a more patient approach. Fuck Zuccherberg.
  24. 2 points
    Ive joined a bunch of faceballs groups attempting to connect with enthusiasts. It's like people dont know how to google things? and it seems ALOT more worse with facebook as information is instantly lost. I would say that 99.9% of questions asked on facebook across both the rollaclub and e30 ones i follow could be solved with google searching. Facebook isn't a good platform for keeping knowledgeable people engaged. However in saying that most if the information that is in google searches is on forums that are 10-12yrs old. How long are they going to be around? Rollaclub.com only stays online cause irokin keeps paying the bill. I fear that that alot of great information that was acumulated on forums between say 2001 and ~2013 will eventually be lost. The internet may only end up with useless social media sites. Instabook and facegram. And we will all be back to re-inventing the wheel on our own as information is lost.
  25. 1 point
    Hi Luke, Welcome aboard ! Good question. Really depends on the state of the inside of the engine. When these engines get old, they can have a lot of buildup in the water jackets. which really needs to be removed, for best thermal efficiency in removing heat. However, because the K series engines have a cast iron block & an aluminium head, they can suffer from electrolysis between dissimilar metals, so coolant leaks are not uncommon, to both the inside & outside of the engine. As well as that, as the aluminium gets old, it changes its composition, & breaks down, & corrodes more easily. A good automotive coolant, will help prevent this, but is not much good on an engine that already has got lots of crud & corrosion inside the water jackets. You could put a good cooling system flushing additive to the water, run it as per the instructions, then remove top & bottom hoses & thermostat, and wash all the loosened crud out of the engine. However, I've seen the results of this previously, with Welsh plugs all of a sudden becoming very thin & leaking, as all the crud on the back of them is really sealing as well. I recently stripped a 5K engine, I acquired, and in the strip down process removed all the Welsh plugs. On two of them, a light tap on the centre with a screwdriver, resulted in the screwdriver going right through. That's how thin they were. When old engines are reconditioned professionally, they usually have all Welsh plugs removed, & the whole block acid washed, then new "brass" Welsh plugs fitted, instead of the original pressed steel ones. The K series engines also have poor coolant circulation, at the rear of engine around no: 4 cylinder. This is primarily about the design of the engine, as coolant enters & leaves from the front of the engine. With less flow at the rear, crud builds up, and the results are not good in the long run. If a piston or rings are going to give you issues, it will quite often be number 4 cylinder. I've had a 3K & a 5K over the years, both have issues with no: 4 piston & rings. So it's up to you, & sometimes it is better to "let sleeping dogs lie", unless you want to take the risk of having to take the engine out and change welsh plugs, or maybe a head gasket. Others on here may have other suggestions, but mine would be to . . . . Remove top & bottom radiator hoses & flush the engine out with a hose, without adding a flushing agent before hand. Replace the thermostat & radiator cap. Refit hoses, if they are in good condition. Add a good automotive coolant. These actions will probably help, but are unlikely to result in any unwanted immediate leaks ! Cheers Banjo