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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. Woo! Nice! I was expecting something rougher than that! So it can be a project car that is off the road being worked on while you do an engine upgrade. In 15years your first-born can drive it!!
  2. Would you like to start a new topic with this question, it would be easier to find in the future. Where do you live and what engines are around?? There is the 2L Toyota Y engine (114lb.ft) that would fit, at least is has a square bore and stroke, or the long stroke 7K (103lb.ft) as you said. An oversquare 18R would be another contender, (107lb.ft) in fact you could fit almost anything with a bit of work.. How big is your budget and how much experience do you have in swapping motors? Are you sure the 5K is in good condition? Do a compression test and check the points and timing to see how well it is performing. It is definitely a bit small for a commercial vehicle.
  3. Depends on how long you're going to keep the car... The old alty will wear out & a new bracket is not that hard a job. Its probably worth mailing a bracket from Aussie, although if you can easily return the alty & get your cash back you might as well. Where abouts are you?? Did you buy the car? Is it going to be your daily driver or do you drive something else? Stick up some photos..
  4. Yeah, looks like there is a wire missing off the coil +ve. The ballast resistor drops 12V down to 9V for the 9V coil, but it gets bypassed when you're cranking. So the +ve coil side has two wires, one straight from the key for cranking, and one from the ballast resistor for running. Then the -ve goes to the dizzy, and to the tacho if you have one, and often to a capacitor to get rid of radio noise. Get a test light or a multimeter and find the wire that is +12v when the key is on cranking, it should be red, that goes on coil +ve. Check that the wire from the ballast to coil +ve is live when the key is just on ignition. Check where the coil -ve wires go to. You only need the one going to the distributor really. With the points open and the key on ignition, you should get a spark across the points with a screwdriver. There are wiring diagrams on here. See how you go... Oh, that purple wire just goes around the engine bay to the other side I think.
  5. [sigh].. I've had these rims lying around for years, in great condition but I'd never worried about moving to 14". Anyway, I bought a set of Toyo Nanoenergy 3 tyres last week, had them fitted, jacked the car up... and although the rims go on the hubs the wheelnut shanks won't go in the holes! So more measuring and I find they fit KE10s or KE20s, but not KE70s. $420 the lot, excellent condition rims and tyres that have not been on a car! or $200 for the rims and I'll use the tyres on other wheels. I can deliver to Lithgow, or out to Wellington, or anywhere up to Armidale. Otherwise I can freight, but unless these rims are rare I can't see that being economic.
  6. Start a new topic & give us some details... Have you put a multimeter between the starter body and the battery negative?? The resistance should be under 1ohm.
  7. Well, 2019 is not going to be a good year for freedom, especially in NZ! The laws banning guns have been sitting around on Govt books since the '90s, and one Aussie visitor is all they needed to whip them out and ram them through. Even more important are the new laws banning free speech, as guns will get replaced by other weapons eventually, but speech won't. It always starts with banning holocaust denial, then insulting Muslims, then denying womanhood victim status and as always it will end up banning criticism of the Govt. Keep your eyes open...
  8. Si is the man- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/10940-sis-5kte-ke55/?tab=comments#comment-155719 Stevejw did it too- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73977-does-anyone-have-a-4k-c-turbo-manifold/?tab=comments#comment-714381 ..and 4KT https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59642-4k-c-carbie-turbo/page/6/ Just use the search button.. and have a read of this so you can add your experiences afterwards.. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/
  9. I'd be onto that thanks Stu, I'll shoot you a PM.
  10. Well, I finally got down to the wrecker and took a look around for plug leads. The Nissan lead had been doing well, but I found a set on a Mazda Astina that fitted fine. Put this in your notebook, because the Takumi tax on these things is pretty steep!! Still trying to sort wheels, although I've bought the 14" tyres. Just can't decide which set of alloys for the Datsun 1600 & which for the KE. Wheelnuts and washers for both sets are a pain, they're 17mm shanks while everything these days is 18.3mm.
  11. They're the same K motors so I'd be amazed if it didn't work. Manual and auto are the same, the wiring inside is the difference with the auto lockout, you will have all of that and it won't make a difference. How come it hasn't got a starter? or has it got one that doesn't work? None at the wreckers locally?? There are 3 or 4 here in Orange.
  12. Well, its so clean its worth putting some money into so you get a car you love and keep it for 20years.. I'm sure no-one would have thought KE70s would be worth keeping for 40years, but they are quite sought-after now. Save up more cash and do the 4AGE conversion, at least you can do that yourself. If the exhaust rusts out in the meantime put a larger one on with sports mufflers, and if you're really keen find a free-flow aircleaner setup, but anything more would be costly for not enough gain. I couldn't find any of the major cam grinders in Aussie advertising 4AF cam profiles, so that might be a sticking point for internal mods straight away.
  13. Ah! Of course, I was thinking of the 4AC in the AE71, you've got 15KW over that single-cam unit already. Well, any time people have suggested doing up a 4AF everyone says "drop in a 4AG"... I expect that is worldwide so no-one has spent much time in developing the 4AFs. Dang! Reading Wikipedia I can see why! " The 4A-FE is different from the 4A-GE in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles[who?] to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. This engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but compromises power. " You're really on the back foot with the carb version, 71KW and 127NM, even the injected F had a big jump to 84KW & 145NM. So it looks like a good porting job would be a start, you might ask odelskewoltoy his thoughts, he's a head porter in the USA. He's on here as well. https://www.club4ag.com//forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=134326#p134326 If the heads are cheap, buy a 2nd one from a wrecker and expect to ruin one in your education. I have a feeling your whole budget could vanish into having it done commercially, but ask a few shops anyway. it looks like it will be a battle to get it to rev high, so aim for torque. Carbs... can you fit twin DCOE Webers in there?? a single DCOE? Quad bike carbs?? You'll probably need to make your own inlet manifold for them either way. Cams that aim for lift more than massive duration, an exhaust of medium size rather than large.. Lots of reading to do- https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/356232-4af-engine-modifications-idea-problems.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/381051-modified-corolla-1600-16v-4af-carb-engine.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/136189-4af-mods.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/102365-cheap-mods-4af.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/29170-4af-performance-tuning.html Well well, look at this! https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/64392-4AF-head-prep-and-porting?s=95332339e6fe1c856317a743897c4d62 Plenty to get you thinking-
  14. Well, straight off the diagram they should be- Black/Orange- well, B/R is +12V from engine fuse, maybe B/O is it. You don't have a B/R. Yellow, Yellow, Check & make sure one is not yellow/white, the charge light. Yellow/Black- oil pressure light Red/White- handbrake light Red- hazard relay (Europe) Yellow/Blue- fuel sender light Black- Tacho feed ------------------------------------------------- Green/Yellow- indicators right Yellow/Red- Fuel sender unit Green/Black- indicators left White/Black- Earth White/Black- Earth Yellow/Green- water temp Red/Blue- +12V in from gauges fuse White/Black- Earth --------------------------------------------- Blue/White- choke switch (Europe) Green- +12V for lights but "not headlights" ----------------------------------------------- Red/Green- Clock Pink/Blue- Cig lighter You should put a couple of extension wires on a multimeter and put one probe in these plugs, then see if it comes out where it is meant to under the bonnet or around the car. That's the only way to confirm it.
  15. De nada- Todos necesitamos ayudar con autos viejos.
  16. " mine has a 1/8 of an inch clearance even with new flange donut gaskets installed, could this be the culprit? " That's OK so long as its even all the way round. Mine leaks but it just makes the motor noisier rather than a distinct noise. You'd see black marks if it was leaking, and "knock" isn't the word to describe an exhaust leak. Not a broken ring?
  17. How far are you planning to go?? Carbs, cam, compression & a porting job? It will keep up with the traffic but it will never get near 4AGE power, 8valves will never rev as easily.... Depends on your budget and what you want to do with it.
  18. Actually, here's the only bit you should need. You should have white/black, black, yellow/green, yellow/red, yellow/black, yellow/blue, red/white, yellow/white, and red/blue spread over the plugs.
  19. Wiring diagram- For USA models, so it has extras Australia never saw. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Check out the colours of the wires on each side of the plugs and see if they either agree, or you can find them in the wiring diagram.
  20. "No noise at idle only evident when revving " That's a bit odd.. what happens when you slowly increase or decrease the rpm? Does the ticking suddenly arrive? Appear slowly and get worse? Is it both when under power when driving and/or compared to just revving it in neutral when its doing no work? What sort of rpm does it appear at? One cylinder only?? Does a screwdriver in the ear or a stethoscope give any clue as to which cylinder?
  21. Down at Auburn Vale the deck is half sanded/oiled. Its been in the sun so long it won't come up like new unless we sand 2mm off the top, but this will keep it protected. We patched the drinking water tank at the house too, some people were not keen about the red worms wriggling around in their glass. A quick google showed them to be bloodworms, the lavae of a non-biting harmless midge, but definitely off-putting. I vacuumed the tank dirt out too, and saw a brown snake escaping the water going everywhere by sliding under the blue car. A search showed it kept moving on.. That got me looking at the concrete tank, 40,000L and not being used.. however a look inside was quite daunting! I pulled the main plug and let the metre of sludge out, and when its dried we can get in with a shovel. However the big problem is the tree that is growing over the roof blocking the gutters... I can put a roof over the tank again, but dropping that tree without hitting the roof, the cars or the power lines is something else! Anyway, AuntyCat, who I catnapped from Strathaven and bought down to A'vale, became Mothercat down in the shearers cottage where Steve's little bro lives. She bought two grown kittens up to the main farmhouse, where they seem to have made themselves at home. Aren't cats clever! A long break now, I've got to stay at home looking after cats & chickens while my mob are overseas, so it will be 6weeks before I get up there again. We'll see what happens then...
  22. This requires farm machinery.. two gensets to run pumps! Beautifully made, quiet and efficient.. except you have to check the oil each tankful of fuel, even tho' they're brand new. Just for interest we stripped the motor after it seized... A SOHC with a centrifugal cam-controlled exhaust timing that holds the valve open past TDC to regulate the max speed. The thing that was a carb is actually a fuel-injection system! The generator part is built-in to it all. It ran again but didn't produce enough grunt, so we have a new larger version. Steve bought a Hino fridge truck, so we did a rubbish run before hitting it with the water blaster to clean it out. We tried to get the old decals off, but its a massive job, so it was pressed into service as it was, a milk delivery truck! New vinyls will come later. We turned the Dyna into a spray truck. Making the booms was easier than getting it mobile, it had been neglected for years. The Nikki carb ran flooded all the time, and it took a day to swap enough parts to fix that, and now it only runs with the choke full out! Some massive air leak somewhere, but we didn't have time to pull the manifold off and see if the missing bolts in the middle were important.. The little bit of "oil" left in the gearbox & diff was like grease, obviously not changed in the last 30years, the clutch doesn't free completely, the wiring will set fire to it one day and the starter solenoid is moody..
  23. I modified a rubber channel to fit under the new alloy radiator, then drilled a hole at the top of one side to be tight, and the other side to be slightly loose so it can slide under stress. Hopefully this will allow the front of the car to flex without flexing the rad as well. I'd already cut the front out to help with motor changes, and when I put the top strip back it it was reinforced so is stronger than the floppy stock one. These are the modified KE70 spring tops we made to keep the front springs in line and captive- Back outside, things are growing. The green manure crop is now waist-high, compared to this photo. A quick trip in Pete's R44 showed how patchy the watering was, and we now have even water over the whole area. The trial vege garden is producing, Steve has a regular run on Tuesdays to organic shops and restaurants etc up Armidale way, zuchinni, beans, silver beet, and beetroot. But the main course is in the glasshouse, 6000 seeds planted every two weeks, to be planted out in the main area when the green manure crop has been slashed & dug back in. All the Brassica family, brocolli, cabbage, caulis, kale.. for winter frosts.
  24. More shiny goodness from SamQ for the back of the head, although we only wanted one outlet and plugged the other 3. We cut the steel bypass line to fit and cleaned all the water pump gear. The hose fittings were all corroded, but some bog tidied them up. Then we moved onto gearbox and thrust bearing problems.. The difference in the wire clips shown on those thrust bearings shows how different the Altezza J160 box is. No other Toyota seems to have the same clip system. However it was one of several major problems involving the clutch stuff. Basically the Altezza crank sits about 14mm further out from the block, so on a 4AGE the gearbox input shaft doesn't go inside the spigot bearing, the thrust bearing carrier falls off the front of the input shaft tube, and the slave arm pivot can't stick out far enough to let the arm push the thrust bearing far enough forward. We're currently looking at the best way to move those three components forward. We only found this out after buying a slave cylinder (off another Toyota) but on Ebay they can't be determined if they're left-hand or RH, and of course it is upside-down on the J160... so useless! Meanwhile, the boss was there in my chair and wouldn't even let me have lunch!
  25. Stu, we would've loved that! next time... Well, another trip, more work... Into the Sigma LCAs.... they push the steering arm and strut out so far that the steering arm balljoint runs out of angle and the LCA with the steering arm on it can't match the angle of the face on the bottom of the strut. Alternatively, if you put the assembly together then the steering balljoint jams on the edge of its cup and that is the limit of suspension droop, and THAT won't be good for the balljoint. In the photo here the balljoint jams on the inner edge of its cup. We made a couple of wedges to fit between the LCA and the balljoint, so it tilts the balljoint and makes it more horizontal. This tilted the balljoint just enough to allow the strut to bottom out without the balljoint jamming in its cup. With the front suspension done we hit the rear arches. Without springs and shocks the axle goes right up and hits the body in several places at once, a wonderful design. With the 14" rims we needed to chop 75mm out of the top of the wheel arch and re-weld the inner and outer skins. We cut the arches off the front guards of one of the paddock Coronas and made those fit. They aren't a dead copy of the KE70 shapes, but now that they are trimmed, riveted, bogged and painted they look fine!
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