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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. Ask the Dept Transport or whoever it is now, and even then you might get an opinion rather than a law. Any answers on here are just opinions and wouldn't constitute legal advice. You would get away with a 5K, but for what improvement it is you might as well just fit a good 4K. You could try the 5K pistons into a 4K block if you have a ratty 4K that needs a rebuild, but really no K motor is worth spending thousands of dollars on. A 4AGE KE70 is a great combo, ask them about that as it was in the AE86 and that would weigh the same, and I'm sure you'd be allowed a FWD Corolla with a 4AGE on your Ps. However the 4AGE means another whole crossmember-engine-gearbox-driveshaft change and that won't be cheap. I expect that putting a 4AGE in will cost you more than the car. Even the engineering can cost thousands of dollars and they can ask you to do some stupid things to the rest of the car. Actually, what brakes are on it, and was it road legal with certificates when you bought it? Sure as hell that CA18 won't be good for it. What diff did he fit??
  2. Wooo! That's a lot of work! How far into the manifold ports did you fill?
  3. " The horn circuit should be alive, in most cars, even when the ignition is off. " Yep, this bit. The white wire should be live all the time, carrying power to the horn. The green wire will be live also if the horn is OK. Its the steering wheel button that earths it out and makes the horn work.
  4. There should be two horns, one on each side. There should be more bolts holding on the stone tray than what you have there too! It looks a mess, all you can do is sit down and work out what the last guy did. The indicators on the slanty KE70 are in the sidelight, in the flatfront they are in the guards. Both have them in the bumpers. From the diagram, most 'green and something' wires are indicators, the horns being white and then green/black. If you can find a white wire, check for permanent 12V. If you can find a permanent 12V wire there, (no ignition on) then that's a start. The return wire to the horn will have to be green /black.
  5. Yes, from the hazard fuse to the horns, they're in parallel and likely to have dirty, poor connections, then back to the steering wheel and earths out via the ring behind the steering wheel. That's another place to get poor contact. If the hazard lights work I'd check the wiring for 12V at the horns, and if it still doesn't work then pop the steering wheel apart and see if 12V is arriving back there. The contact pin that is pushed against the ring for turning the steering wheel obviously wears away.
  6. "Be warned that part number is for a KE70/AE71/TE72 or Tercel. Will it fit a KE20? I have no idea. " I would say KE70/AE71 don't fit any other KE, they have a strange assymetrical hole pattern in the 3 studs at the top. Measure the distances between the 3 holes and see if they are the same, older Toyotas tend to be, but KE70s aren't. They're 111mm, 106 & 116 to the outside of the studs in each case.
  7. Are those wires yellow/black, yellow/blue & yellow/green?? Are you sure they are alternator wires? From the KE70 wiring diagram they are , yellow/black oil pressure sender yellow/blue fuel warning light yellow/green water temperature sender. Alty wires with external reg are- Red, alty F to ext reg F Blue, alty N to ext reg N White, Alty B to reg B and off to fusebox White/black, alty E to earth point. The KE70 may be different, but Toyota were loath to change things. The power to the battery, white, will be a much thicker wire.
  8. Those K gearboxes will all die later, there are no bearings available for them. So a quick & easy conversion would be any bigger K motor like a 5K, with a K40 or K50 until you run out of gearboxes. The 4AGE carries a T50 gearbox, there's more of those around, and the last RWD performance version would be a 3SGE with its Asian J160 6-speed. How's your general car mechanics & welding/fabrication? The 4AGE conversion isn't that bad, although I'm talking KE70 rather than the older cars I haven't done it on. The 3SGE has been done, but its a tall motor and I don't know how the cross-member works with it. Same with the 2AZ motors, look at littleredspirits great work on his AE86. If the motor in yours is a bit worn, drill it out to 5k and use it while you plan something bigger for later on. Its not worth spending a lot on as the power gains aren't that great, but even carbs/cam/exhaust helps.
  9. Woolshed rallying has fitted 5 or more of the Ebay all-alloy ones to various cars, and after a few years one has leaked where the core is welded to the tanks. I was worried about putting more weight in the nose so I weighed stock and alloy rads, the alloy is half the weight of the copper, and measured what they held. The alloy holds twice the water so the weight ends up the same. I ran the 4AGE on a stock 4K radiator & electric fan without problems, but it was on the limit of what it could cool really. It didn't heat up much over half, but took longer to cool down, so in the end I went alloy.
  10. ...and the general motor noise was much quieter too! I put a manual over-ride with that light on mine.
  11. "there're many zones on the web just where a person can very easily spend their spare time." Work on your Rolla much?
  12. Were any numbers stamped on it? I thought they were 1.53mm, but it could be anything with so many carbs for different countries. 1.7 to 1.8 would be good. Anyway, give it a whizz and see how it goes!
  13. Nah, it won't boost free-reving, that takes no power to do. If you haven't done it already, PM 68KE15 and Taz_Rx and ask them what advance and jets they used, at least they've both built turbo 4Ks in the past. You'll end up needing a mixture display or some dyno time to make sure the mixture doesn't lean out somewhere in the power curve. I've used a mixture display a lot, I like being able to glance at it under all sorts of driving conditions.
  14. Well done! Now you're halfway there! Sort the teething problems and then start the long difficult process of making it run cleanly. I assume there's a boost gauge in there somewhere, what do you think it will hold before it blows up? 7psi? 10? 12? Anything that is above zero will make it a lot faster! oh- If you haven't drilled that second throat jet I wouldn't rush until you're driven it for a few weeks, you'd need to be pretty sure that is the right thing to do, and that size is the right size. If the stock jet is 1.53mm then the 1.8 will be 40% larger in area. Do you think you'll make 40% more power?
  15. Ah, you're right- No photos yet. I've just sent you an email, we will see if email works between us. Some people it doesn't, I can send them an email and it just never arrives, and of course I don't know if I fail to receive email from other people. You can click and drag photos into Rollaclub pages, both forum pages like this one or PM pages, its at the bottom of this 'reply' box I'm writing in. Cheers
  16. 1986 is very late. I'm sure you're not in Australia. The change is from having indicators in the mudguards for the phase one flat-front to indicators in the headlight edge in the phase 2 slant-front. You will find the colours listed on the wiring diagram here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Basically green/yellow wires are right-hand side, green/black left-hand side indicators and white/black are earths. Plain green wires are for the 'markers', what I would call side-lights or park lights.
  17. OK, it should be screwed from the front, right through the light and into the frame behind. The end of the screw is shown by the yellow arrow. Of course the moment you have a little crash, that's the end of that corner.. See what you have in that spot.
  18. Nah, stick with one thread.. edit the title to "The Training Wheels Nightmare.." The BorgWarner diffs are rubbish, as whiny as all shit. Replace it with a Japanese-made banjo-style diff when you can. Any of the 5-link Celicas (imports) and some Coronas I think. Google banjo and salisbury diffs and see the difference in the way they are made. Banjo diffs have limited slip centers available for later on. Watch the ratio when buying one, you want a 4.1 or a 4.3 over a 3.9 if you can. Maybe its got no oil in... (black engine bay remember!) You better get under this car! I sometimes park a low car over the gutter to jack it up. I can't figure out what you want for the headlight, I had a look at my slanty and it looks like that one in the photo but without the dent! Maybe another photo..
  19. " I figured if there is wrong with the fusebox or wiring loom I could switch it all" Excellent idea! Painful under the dash, but it will remove any mistakes someone else may have made in your loom.
  20. "I was thinking about starting to pull every fuse one by one while the fan spins to see if i could isolate the problem to a specific area " Yep! Start with that! Even if you find one that stops it spinning, continue on to check them in all fuse boxes in case two of them affect it. There are three sets of fuses, drivers footwell, steering column, and that big box on the battery, and 3 relay boxes I can think of, one in driver's footwell, one in passenger's and one on the battery.
  21. Well, I really don't know if it matters. The vacuum diaphram that opens the 2nd throttle might get a surprise... it may not open the 2nd throttle at all ! I'm dying to see!
  22. Well, if you moved the i'cooler upwards close to the bonnet, put a foam square around it for the bonnet to seal to, and put a rear-facing vent in the bonnet it will suck air up through it. Do you think the carb will work without blowing petrol out backwards somewhere? Taz enclosed his in a box so pressure was at boost inside and outside the carb. He's got a write-up all about it on here. 78pages long! Hard to see the carb with Photofucket covering everything.
  23. Yeah, it is awkward. I was wondering about horizontally above the fan and use an electric fan. Then you'd need an exit duct in the bonnet so air came in through the rad and upwards through the i'cooler. Then I figured its easier to cut a hole under the i'cooler where it is and box air through it and upwards to go out a bonnet vent there. Maybe even fit an electric fan to the i'cooler itself instead of relying on passive airflow. Put a couple of temp sensors in there Mr P, one before the cooler and one after, we will be fascinated to see what temperature drops can be achieved. It looks a simple cheap way to get some grunt. Taz can give you pointers about timing and mixture, he's the turbo K man.
  24. That's a great increase in the exhaust! Do you compare notes with oldeskewltoy? Datsun found the same with their SSS back in 1969/70s, the big-ports never got enough revs up to really use the ports size, and they went to a medium ports afterwards. What cam size are you planning this around?
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