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altezzaclub

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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. Just measure the distance from the top of the radiator, where the cap locks on, to the sealing shoulder down inside the neck. Make sure both radiators have the same distance for the cap spring to get compressed, as the photo looks like the Primera rad has a much taller neck. Diameter of the cap seal the same?? One way or another, if its not the head gasket I'm sure its the cap sealing that is at fault. A leak would be very noticeable and it wouldn't fill the overflow bottle if it was losing pressure through a big leak.
  2. You bought a helicopter with the money yet?? maybe a farm?
  3. Here's how I set it up last year when I had the head off. The camera 'fish-eye' effect makes it seem like both teeth are past their marks, but counting the teeth showed it to be correct. Of course with hot cams you could run different timing to be better, but a tooth out would be a big difference compared to adjustable cam gears.
  4. Not a clue about the root cause. The motor came out of a guy's race car, so it has the biggest cams you can fit without new valve springs, and I thought maybe they give a low compression at cranking speeds. Cam timing looked OK, I'll dig a up a photo in a moment. The catalytic converter was suspected, but that is as clean as a whistle. Those Mazda leads I wondered about, but their resistance is within the range of Toyota leads. Running rich..? I've got the mixture display in there and it is impressive how much time it spends on 14.7, leaning out going downhill. Maybe the oxy sensor is suspect. I'm loath to pull the bottom off and pop the pistons, given the bore condition and the rare times I add oil between changes, but the carbon is coming from somewhere.
  5. Well, another year of these 1000km trips every few weeks & it died again! Somewhere North of Premer it lost power so I stopped & turned it off to check it, and while everything looked OK it wouldn't restart. Cranked fine, fired occasionally, but never caught. So I ph'd Steve and he picked me up that night with a trailer. One odd thing happened.. With taffic of a car every 10minutes of so I was dozing in the pitch black when I heard a ghostly rattling & clanking approaching. There wasn't a thing to see, and as I wound the window down a completely lightless old Landcruiser crept past at 20kph towing a ruined old farm trailer! Not even dash lights! They turned off just past me & I could hear them clanking away through the scrub for 10 or 15minutes afterwards. So, we did a compression test & they were all 90-100psi. To check the gauge we tested Mao's 4AGE & that is all 190-210! I took the head off and there is a lot of soft carbon on the piston tops. The bores look fine, no lip on the top and no vertical scouring to suggest broken rings. The combustion chambers are the same- and once I pulled the valves out the loss of compression showed with carbon particles on the exhaust valve seats. The inlets I could've put straight back in they were so clean, but I gave them all a whizz with sandpaper and a quick grind. I'll assemble it this weekend and buy a borescope to keep an eye on it for the next year. I was most impressed with aaapowerparts on Ebay, $113 bought me a full gasket set with new bolts!
  6. " bilstein shocks, adm ae86 brakes " " kings front and rear, full noltec bush kit including adjustable camber/castor tops " Same as us, I figure everyone short of cash does it. We're on Corona struts, same as AE86.
  7. Got a $10 multimeter?? It starts at the coil -ve terminal, a black wire, and ends up at the tacho. Check and see that you have continuity from the coil to the tacho plug, and if that is fine then it must be in the tacho itself. The pins are 13 and 5, black in and white/black earth out, although this is an American diagram.
  8. Crawling along in traffic, sure... On the open road at 100kph I doubt they do anything unless the manufacturer has designed a particularly bad intake setup. On the open road the air under the bonnet is not hot, compared to sitting around town at 20kph. Most cars pull air from outside the engine bay anyway, the KE70 gets it from under the guard. They real advantage will be a less restrictive setup as Toyota would want the intake quiet over being free-flow. I played around a lot with the intake on The Girls KE70 here, but that was because the twin SUs would have been sucking air from straight above the exhaust manifold.-
  9. You mean like this? There's bound to be people who have tried it, but it depends on how you load the car and what the roads you drive on are like. I find the 205/60x14 I'm using bang around a lot and pull on the steering all the time. They're just too heavy. On the rally car we've just cut 70mm height out of the rear arch and riveted a Corona front flare over it. It fitted fine, we just used it because the Corona was sitting out in the paddock as a wreck.
  10. I'm sure you've done this before, but scour it deeply on the back face, glue it together with Loctite, and once that is holding it in shape fill the back with Araldite and some matrix, like a strip of alloy or copper wires. Anything to build up the thickness of the panel as Superglue is only surface to surface.
  11. Just lie on the ground and check the tyre tread wear every couple of months. If it is even enough then just swap front to rear once a year. Unless you are keen about how it turns in when you toss it into a corner with some enthusiasm, I wouldn't do anything. If you think it understeers too much then try to get zero camber, hence the slotting of the strut holes in the towers or the camber adjusters in Banjo's post there. It all depends on how you drive it.. The factory toe setting is for maximum tyre life, the factory camber is for safe gradual understeer and the factory castor is to give self-centering on the steering wheel without making it too heavy. They're all compromises.
  12. keep forgetting to link to this... All these engine conversions coming up-
  13. Ever had the V6 running in it? Should make a big difference...
  14. https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/news/wheel-alignment-101-lets-talk-camber-caster-toe/ ...and... what's wrong with the "caster" diagram here, a giant multinational company full of highly skilled & highly paid engineers & techs? https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread-and-trend/drivers-ed/tire-tread-wear-causes
  15. C'mon Banjo, get those old Photoshop skills out.. Toe was 2.5mm in, mainly lefthand side, now 0.9mm in & even. That would have scrubbed the front left tyre. Camber is +50' both sides, unchanged. Meh, horrible but typical. Caster 2deg 10' left and 1deg 30' right, unchanged, so it climbs up the road camber.. Rear axle is crooked, not enough to notice... Does it drive nicely Graeme?
  16. In reality, the best would be a Ford Ecotech, but I don't know what RWD gearbox you could bolt up to it. If we solved the FWD to RWD gearbox problem then there are some really light, economical, grunty motors that are recent. Ah... mounts too, finding holes in the block in the right place for RWD could be a problem. Ask LittleRedSpirit what his biggest problems were with the 2AZ.
  17. How wide is the BRZ motor?? The low center of gravity would be interesting, but it might not fit at all. The 2J would put a lot of weight on the nose. How about an MX5 motor & a 6-speed. Its the only 4cyl RWD motor setups that is still new. Seeing they race so many of them the tech for modifying them is also new. Even the Altezza 3SGE is getting old now, but either would give you a light car that still handled well.
  18. Should be dead easy, all the parts are common Toyota bits aren't they. If you're really lucky the wiring is all in place, you might just have to buy a relay. Hunt the wreckers and see if they have one in the yard.
  19. " the passanger front was well worn on both sides " What was the other front tyre like? Negative camber takes out the inside edge, positive camber takes off the outside edge, and toe strips the tyre right across. Low tyre pressures wear both edges, high tyre pressures wear the center out. Just seems odd....
  20. makes sense then- you won't be worrying about wheel travel as much as torque twisting one rear wheel right off the ground.
  21. Pro9 do them, but I can't see they do any better than the 5-link that's in there. Nissan ran the 4-link with angled arms in their 1980s cars, we always thought it was a compromise as the arms fight against one another when the suspension goes up and down. http://www.pro9.com.au/?PCID=10796&PSO=259&PSID=Pro9-4LK1000VT&PSV=Primary&CDO= Pro9 have parallel links and a diagonal locating arm instead of a panhard. You planning some big horsepower?
  22. Coln's right, no camber adjustment from factory. You can check it yourself with a spirit level, (Sigh.. or a smart-phone app!) and if its out far enough to worry you, buy camber-tops. Cheapest is to slot the mounting holes in the turret top and spotweld washers on in the new position. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-Levin-KE70-AE86-TE71-Adjustable-Absorber-Camber-Pillow-Ball-Mount/183145049280?epid=7015422566&hash=item2aa44bacc0:g:ooMAAOSwOvhatnNL
  23. Nice! What motor is in it, the 4K or a T?? If you use a 1J the weight in the nose will change the handling a lot, the same with bigger heavier wheels I find. That lovely feeling of being light and nimble becomes the heavier feeling of a big car. Depends on the roads you drive on mainly, but tight mountain roads are wonderful when it feels light.
  24. While I've been working my way through endless lists of chores at home, Josh phones up.. He navigated for Steve for a while, then moved to Blaney, just out of Orange, and he's building an Evo 3 for the Orange Rally this weekend. So i've had a couple of afternoons working on something completely different with about 4times the bhp! Mind you, after seeing this clip, I'm sure you can get enough out of a 4AGE !
  25. here's what you're looking at- You could get it quite a bit higher if you made a new pump base and pickup, with wings as you say, or a flat bottom rearwards and aim the pickup to the back where the oil collects as you accelerate.
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