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altezzaclub

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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. Same as a KE70, the Altezza manual runs a 4.1, the auto a 4.3. Found the page I was after... Here's a comparison of the K, T W & J160 boxes, and the 'close-ratio' 5 speed from the Datsun Z series. You'll see the J160 has a lot more gears crammed into the same ratio space, with 5th as 1:1 like most gearboxes 4th. It just great if you're working your way though the tight & twistys, but not noticeable if you're on straighter roads. J160 6th gear is 0.87, the same as a K50 5th, so definitely not a tall gearbox.
  2. Stock springs are probably free from your local wrecker... I know there are a couple lying around at the wreckers here just waiting to get crushed.
  3. altezzaclub

    Mr

    Its an excellent idea, they make no noise as they never come on and release more bhp for the wheels as there is no parasitic drag. You will need a radiator hose fitting or similar to carry a thermoswitch, a fan, (I get mine from the wrecker) a relay and I included an LED to show it is on and a manual switch on the dash. You'll have to make your own brackets to mount whatever fan you get, and if you want to do a lot of work you can mount the relay inside the KE70 box, or just put a relay beside the radiator. I'll draw up a wiring diagram- hang on.. With the K motor I had a thermoswitch in the thermostat housing. When I fitted a 4AGE I went to a separate t'switch housing in the radiator hose. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/saas-water-temperature-gauge-adapter---aluminium-34mm-radiator-hose/525639.html Pick a thermoswitch from the Tridon manual, they open at various temperatures and have varies wiring setups. I used a TFS 111 and we've used a similar one with two wires. https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches Don't forget to have the radiator hose adapter fit the diameter of your hose, (modern cars are smaller) and the thermoswitch must fit the thread in the adapter or the 4K t'stat housing. Ok, wired like this- Permanent power to the relay on the switched positive, so make sure this is a bulletproof wire as its always live. You could put a 30amp inline fuse in it. It goes to the fan from the output side of the relay and the fan goes to earth. Ignition power to the switching side positive of the relay, it powers the relay switch when you turn the key on. The output side of the relay switch goes to the thermoswitch, and nothing happen until the water hits 95deg. At that point the 'normally open" thermoswitch closes, power flows from the relay switch through the thermoswitch to earth, and the relay turns on. Then the alty power runs the fan and goes to earth. The manual switch is an option, I flick it on at roadworks when I'm on a trip at 100kph as I can get cooling the radiator before it hits 95deg. In theory, not needed. The fan is only needed up to about 25kph, as airflow is then greater, so it only does anything when you're sitting still in traffic.
  4. Shame. Would have been an easy fix. I'll take a look when I'm down there next just in case.
  5. Do you think the 4AFE is the same loom as the 4AGE?? The wrecker won't have a 4AGE, but there may be 4AFE looms there.
  6. If you hover your mouse over his name it will show you when he last came on here...
  7. haha! True! Plenty of these in use too..
  8. Sounds good! An easy car to drive & you'll never be short of torque. It will be interesting to see if a better diff is a 3.9 than 4.3.
  9. here's one place for the gear, although the fitting looks a different shape. Its worth another look around the bush where you found the outer fitting to find the gear, even if its just to count the teeth. https://tinkeringontoyotas.com.au/products/t50-gearbox-speedo-gear-drive-kit Ah- photos in here.. ..and I found my photo I was looking for, its just not on my computer! These are two broken T50 drives, one stripped the nylon gear and one broke the hollow steel drive shaft. That's what T50 gear look like as far as I know. Anyway, best buy a new cable, inner & outer, then figure out how many teeth on the gear you need to buy, and buy the $74 kit from somewhere. Then you'll need a 6mm bolt and a half-moon plate to hold it in the gearbox.
  10. I'm afraid I don't know where to get one, or even if yours is the same as a KE70 in length. One important thing will be the number of teeth on the nylon gear, so if the gear is still in the gearbox hole, take it out and check the condition of it. The inner cable will be the easiest part, they can be made up new. There's plenty of KE55s at wreckers, but they won't have T50s in, so the bottom fitting will likely be different. Stick some photos up, maybe someone will recognize the bits.
  11. Can you cut the transmission tunnel and still use the car for what you want? The J160 6-speed is a big box, and if you read the thread about putting one in the KE70 rally car you'll see we lowered the engine mounts until the sump was almost touching the cross-member, and we drop the cross-member to get the gearbox in and out. That's after panel-beating the tunnel around the bell-housing so we ddidn't have to cut it. You might have worse problems as you have a steering arm across the car, while we have a rack bolted to the cross-member. You'll need custom engine mounts and a gearbox cross-member made, maybe not have a speedo if the Honda's use electronic systems like the Altezza, and a custom driveshaft to a new diff. I'm sure it won't get engineered without new front suspension & brakes too. Seeing you're basically putting the shell on a completely new mechanical system, don't look for change out of $20,000. Even paying someone to fit a 'drop-in' 4AGE into a KE70 we reckon is worth $10K, and yours is a lot more work. The motor is wonderful, no doubt about it, and the only options are Mazda MX-5 or a BMW 4-cyl in RWD configuration. You could use a 2AZ like LittleRedSpirit, that's a fantastic project, but RWD sports motors are not common these days. Anyway, keep planning and measuring, anything is possible! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/?gopid=680040#entry680040
  12. By now you will have checked for damage on the gearbox fitting and found out why the threaded piece in your fingers was still there. It either ripped the matching thread off the gearbox or it was unscrewed before it fell off, or it was torn off and ruined. I've been hunting a few photos I have of repairing those units, I just can't find them. You'll need a new cable at least, from the look of it, and there should be a big nylon gear sticking out the top end of the piece in your hand. What else have you found under there.
  13. "Only by eliminating the virus can we ease the restrictions. " Not going to happen... We have as much chance as with eliminating influenza or the common cold. It will burn out and become less virulent via the normal mutations of viruses, but it will be around for decades. The chance of a successful vaccine is also very slim, but I suppose if its 50% effective it will be called a win for the billionaires behind it. The safest assumption is that we will all get it sooner or later, and if your time is up you'll die. For those who go on living, the world will be slowly sliding back to the 1970s, then the 1960s, then the 1950s... Its no good having flash new electric cars when unemployment is 20% and inflation is the same. Empty shops, deserted malls, no 'luxuries', plenty of time at home but no holidays away... Self-preservation will make people wash their hands and wear masks, not Govt thugs. Seeing someone you know die from it will sharpen your focus amazingly! But the reality is we are crushing the economy for people who are past their '3score years plus 10' and who would likely die within the next year anyway. Look upon it as an acceleration of inheritance, something that was going the other way in past decades. The final result? A generation of people where the young learn to live without jobs, the middle-aged find they have no savings and the old die from pneumonia in their 70s instead of their 80s or 90s. Somewhere along the line we have to pay for the money Govt is throwing around, be it in increased taxes or inflation, both will strip the middle-class of their wealth. However, the new laws and the State of Emergency will go on much longer than the virus! They'll be smashing down doors and seizing computers to see who is spreading anti-Govt rumours on the net about Covid, vaccines, biowarfare etc, when talking about conspiracies is declared 'anti-social'. I'll just add.. I'm listening to NZ's best audio journalist, Leighton Smith, and he is interviewing the man who sent over 25years trying to convince the medicine/political system that stomach ulcers were not caused by stress and acid, but by a bacterial infection! 25years it took! Now you will get anti-bacterial treatment if you have an ulcer, no problem. Anyway, Professor Borody has cured people of Covid 19 with ivermectin, zinc and doxycycline. From about 20minutes in- https://www.spreaker.com/user/nzme/leighton-smith-podcast-episode-78-august So, the cure is there, but the political will, especially in the medical heirarchy and the multi-billion dollar drug industry, is not!
  14. Road-going afterwards? Are you allowed to cut 'n shut the transmission tunnel/firewall?? That would be the first thing to look at. Also the 4cyl would fit easier than the 6 I assume, and put less weight over the nose. The Gen 1 are a little long-stroke for revving, so that won't be a screamer, but 2L of torque will be great to drive. The Gen 2 is a big step ahead if you can get one of those in 2L for it's equal bore to stroke. What was the Gen 2 in that had RWD?? I wouldn't recognise any of the cars listed with it in Wiki, they didn't appear in Aussie, but the Solstice looks a good start. You'll need to see how it gets mounted North-South, as the FWD cars often don't have bolt-holes on the sides of the block for RWD conversion, and they must have done something for that RWD. Whichever you get, it will involve new engine mounts on the cross-member, new gearbox mounts, hydraulic clutch pedal box conversion, custom driveshaft and exhaust, and a stronger diff. Probably no harder than any other engine, but look out for how tall it is. There may be lots of excitement around the steering box in a small engine bay, and there will be plenty of mind-bending wiring to blend together. Remember the MX5-Miata are around, they are one of the few remaining RWD setups in light 4-cyls.
  15. I bought a Gregorys years ago, but it didn't have wiring in for anything except lights, so I started on Google... Since then I've vacuumed up all sorts of data from the web and just use that. Grab any manual you can for basic stuff, then ask questions here! (you'll love the manual over the auto, so much quicker!)
  16. Anyone help this guy out? RA60 rear sway or KE70 aftermarket. https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/88961-WTB-RA60-stock-rear-sway-bar-15mm?s=2172445757eae7c11fd2bfb6826fe663&p=1624634#post1624634
  17. You can buy a new Mig welder for that money, so everyone does. Makes it difficult to compare..
  18. Well, there's a big difference between what you own and what you are looking at buying, and that is RWD compared to FWD. They take quite different driving styles to get the maximum, and some people are suited to one, some the other. FWD have an inbuilt stability that comes from the driving wheels pulling the car along behind them, so the rear wheels follow the front more easily. The tradeoff is the constant understeer and wicked oversteer if the tail does lose grip. Watch the European 2L saloon championships on Youtube and see how many people can catch a FWD when the tail slides, almost none of them. They are faster for the power as they lose less in the drivetrain. RWD have the rear pushing the front straight ahead, so any turning lets the rear step out into oversteer. The advantage is far better turn-in at a corner, and if the tail steps out you can steer it with the throttle. So for me there is no question, a RWD. I'd go for a KE70, cheaper than a Celica yet has the same motor and suspension. The suspension becomes the important part if you're going track racing. An MX5 will have all the tech developed to be a race car, they've been popular since they were new, and if you're not fussy about car make then that would be the best bet. If you want a FWD, find a 20valve for the car you have, I think its the same shell isn't it. If you like racing it then keep your eyes open for the one with the fancy rear suspension. No matter what you decide on, go do dirt gymkhanas in it to sort out the drifting feel, or wet tarmac ones. You don't want to start learning at full speed in a new car! --------------------- Check out mark blundell at 1.46min in here- This is a great series for pitting FWD against 4WD against RWD from the different manufacturers, and there's no doubt FWD lightness and power does well.
  19. Are the weights set up for a car in those dizzys? It would be a better buy than those made for fork hoists or whatever they were! Yeah, I'm hearing stories from him about having to wear a mask every day. Good thing he didn't buy a house in central Melb... Good luck you guys down there-
  20. Love it! Especially the water tank! Shame about the dog dying...
  21. The red dots are where I blocked the hoses off, leaving only the vacuum advance on the dizzy and the charcoal canister. I haven't got a 4K anymore, but take a look and see if that diaphram hooks into the throttle stop. It might be just to slow the throttle closing down so it doesn't snap shut. That's for emissions control, like injected motors these days lose revs slowly. Seeing I blocked it off and the car ran fine, its not crucial, although that was a lot of years ago to remember. Ah- the HIC is a hot idle compensator, so it holds the throttle open in some situations and lets it close right down in others. The 'jet' is often a vacuum delay, so no vac is allowed through until its stronger than a spring. OK, here its called a Throttle Positioner, and seeing its marked late model it shouldn't be on a 3K
  22. They will lower fuel consumption, which I watch pretty carefully. Sadly the half a L/100Km it will save you is never enough to justify the very noticeable extra cost, so I settle for United's 95octane. Like you, I can't feel the difference, but those long 500Km runs over the same roads to the farm give me pretty sharp figures.
  23. OMG! Time flies! I've made one trip up to the farm in the KE70, and one in the Altezza. Then back home since Easter or so. With 4 cars and three drivers the KE70 stays in the garage with the Altezza in the driveway in front of it, so I drive the Altezza. Naturally, when I go to drive the Corolla.. the battery is flat! Charge it up and take it downtown, and it suddenly cuts out and dies! The guy behind at the lights helps push it off the road, and of course it fires up without me doing anything. Drive for another Km and it dies again! Wait a minute and it fires up! I figure fuel starvation as there are no error codes and so I have re-fit the mixture display, which shows it leaning out as it dies. I look inside the tank in case the lift pump has dropped off again, but its fine. I take the fuel rail return line off an run it through the car with some clear hose. It never empties. I start thinking the main pump may be dying from a bad relay in the COR setup, so put a wire from the battery direct to the pump, tucked away under the air filter... and that's when I find one of the wires on the pump is not firmly on the terminal at all! I assume it was moving off under some acceleration or other, the motor dies and it falls back into place! Having put it on firmly and seeing it do two days of running around, I hope that was the problem and the fix. I've sold the Altezza and its one car each now!
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