altezzaclub

Those reasons you asked about are exactly why you get it done at a cam grinding specialist. They have shelves full of 'blanks' for each cam grind they do, giant cam lobe shapes that go on one end of the cam grinding machine and the machine copies them onto your cam. I suppose these days its all done in CAD. So you need to know the exact shape of some well-respected cam grinder's lobe, how much they took off the base circle and how rapidly they curved the cheeks, and did they cut a wave into it so it accelerate the valve, then slows it, then accelerates it again.. The shape is crucial to not hammer the valve as it hits it to open it, or not to let it slap onto the seat and damage it, and a few other factors like valve springs and lobe separation. There are differences in 'advertised duration' and '50thou duration'. I had a Crow cut in my 4K, picked for mid-range and altitude, but there were these options too- The 7K bore to stroke ratio means it won't rev happily, so don't pick a cam going to 7000-8000. The longer stroke means piston speeds get very high and the rings don't like it. Make sure the cam grinder refaces all your cam followers too, they will have a wear pattern that suits your cam as it is and you want them fresh for the new cam. I'd do it through some country that has plenty of cam shops and an old Corolla fan base, European or Australian/NZ or Japan. I assume you're in Western Asia, India/Pakistan/Sri lanka way??

Here's what happens inside the switch stalk- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65208-high-beam-turns-headlights-off/#comment-651107

Try this- https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kxtqr769ojtetah/downloadfile.jpg?rlkey=ulck2pyqn6u8nd163h0awrj7w&e=1&dl=0 So is that in one of the little 'Pino jeeps?

Brand-new alloy radiators on Ebay are only a few hundred dollars, that $1500 is crazy! Almost any K motor radiator will fit won't it, although you might have to re-drill some holes in the rad panel. The hoses are always in the same place. I have a perfectly good 4K rad in a box in my garage, ever since I fitted an alloy one for the 4AGE. Where abouts are you?

Banjo is right, the flat head will increase the compression ratio over the sunken head. Here's how I measured mine before skimming it to a certain compression ratio. Use petrol or diesel or kero, not water, as water has too high a surface tension. Seal the plastic sheet on with a little grease and fill it up with a pippette or burette so you get an accurate measure. It will be 35-40ml I expect. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Just add up the combustion chamber volume you measured, add 7cc for the head gasket, and whatever the cylinder volume on a 7K is, about 445cc. So your compression ratio will be the total volume at bottom dead centre divided by the volume at TDC, so (35+7+445)/(35+7), or 487/42, or 11.6 to one if your head volume was 35cc. After you've measured a combustion chamber in each head you will be able to compare the expected compression ratios. What octane fuel are you running it on? Higher compressions, say over 10:1, will need higher octane fuels.

Well, buy yourself a set of feeler gauges and away you go! 10thou and 12thou from what I remember, or 8 & 10 depending if the motor is cold or warmed up. The exhaust valves have a slightly larger clearance as they expand more in the stem as they run hotter, and you need to always have a gap when the valve is closed or you burn the valve out.. I expect you would hear a loose tappet before those rpm, but I can't suggest any particular thing making that noise. Under the bonnet sounds terrible on any old car, especially as they are empty revs rather than the motor actually working. Its not some loose heat shield panel or similar is it? If you rev an engine in a slow curve there is a longer period around the top when it is floating, neither being accelerated nor decelerated. That is the time is is noisiest. If you rev it up and down sharply its is either being pushed or pulled, and you won't hear the noises so much. The harmonics change with rpm so motors get buzzy at a certain range then it vanishes. The 3SGE motors were terrible at 3000rpm as you lifted off the accelerator, the buzz sound would reverberate through the Altezza. If it has piston slap or loose bearings you hear the tapping or knocking quite clearly in my experience.

Which noise??? Sounds like a K motor, a bucket of bolts! You are free-revving it so all the slack in the bearings, the timing chain, the piston slap, the valve train.. all are knocking back and forth as it is not loaded. When you drive it all those noises vanish as the motor is being forced in one rotation direction. What are the noises like around 70kph and 90kph when you are - Accelerating normally? Cruising at that speed? Decelerating slightly? Have you checked the tappet gaps? ..and the wear in the rockers where they rub on the valve? If they are grooved then feeler gauges will give you the wrong readings. Same with wear in the rocker bushes where they rotate on the shaft, the valve spring forces the rocker up against the bottom of the shaft but when the tappet gap appears the rocker can bounce up and down for a moment.

In 2009 they were- The valve clearance for 4ac is: (hot) Intake - 0.20mm or 0.008inch Exhaust - 0.30mm or 0.012inch cold. Intake - .18mm .007In Exhaust - .28mm .011In https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/34040-ae71-4a-c-tappet-clearance-work-shop-manual/

Not a drain vent, is it at the bottom? Pressure equaliser for boost in the inlet versus vacuum in throttle body? Although there should be a one-way valve for that, you don't want your turbo pushing into the crankcase. We run them on the turbo rally car but it just goes from tappet cover (two big hoses) and out to atmosphere. http://mcnallycatchcan.com/ They go to inlet and to airbox, so both sides of the throttle body. Is it like that?

Whatever you can get hold of in the 750-1000cc range bikes. Suzuki GSXR are most popular, Mikuni carbs. They will be 4 carbs of 36 or 38mm throat, used to running a 1000cc at 15000rpm, so you can think about the outrageous flow. Even a smaller bike will run a 3K easily, a 600-700cc 4cyl. It was on my list, but I never got around to it, the 4AGE was a much nicer way to go.

Ah, so cam grind, head port & skim, extractors and exhaust system, and bike carbs! I don't know if a PM would reach Tommy- "Hey guys got the manifold plate cut out and also a few spares" If he still had a spare manifold plate it would make your life easy! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/19886-my-ke-11/page/7/#comments You can see that a bike carb manifold has stub pipes welded onto it, and the carbs go on with a rubber hose and a clamp. So, bike carbs or DCOE Weber...

Why do you need one? Car modding going on? I assume your in Thailand, how's the old Corolla scene up there? Still got parts around? Check out Tommy's here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/19886-my-ke-11/page/6/#comments

That link doesn't work for me.. I could probably score you a set at the local wrecker, but they will be old, rusty and probably seized... You'd be better off to rebuild your own. I've just bought these for my KE70, they'll be fitted over the Christmas break. The quality is superb! https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/corolla-ke30-big-brake-kit/ The Dynalytes fit on 13" wheels, the bigger Dynapro calipers need 14".

Have a run through this- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Decide which carbs you want to use and start hunting for a manifold. You'll see I used SUs, popular one is a single downdraught Weber off a small Ford, better would a single side-draught DCOE Weber, but if I was to do it again I'd use bike carbs! Extractors are pretty much just the 4-1 from Redback or similar. Make sure the heights of the manifold's ears by the bolts of both inlet and exhaust are the same, use a half-washer if needed, and buy a single-piece gasket.

Well, Josh is now NSW rally champion, so all that hard work went somewhere... Finally back onto customer's cars... we make amazing safety cages, but don't expect a rush job. He can drill a blind 38mm hole in scuttle panel and put a 38mm tube through it that comes out in exactly the right place for welding! Then brace it with another tube that fits perfectly... If we can finish this shell before Christmas the customer will think Santa has been! The seam welding is done, although it needs to go back on the rotisserie for some work bracing the diff mounts to the rear cage. I've got seat mounts sorted, and we have the rear cage and side-intrusions to do.

Projects are starting to pile up..We're buried in building rally cars, but I need a full day for both of us on coilovers, brakes and wheel bearings... otherwise I can't drive home! and... Then some time on changing the Haltech to sequential COPs with a distributor converted to Hall effect sensors. Never enough time in life...

Lol!! ..and flea markets are great places for old Toyota parts! You don't want a quick side trip to Cyprus to see the old Toyotas frozen in the disputed border?? Untouched in their dealers showrooms since 1974..

Do you check the fuses with a test light or a multimeter? Its unlikely, but they can look good but not conduct electricity. How did they stop working? Just suddenly one day? After you changed a bulb? Did flashers and dash lights stop together? Nothing else stopped working? I haven't got a copy of a KE36 wiring diagram, so its all guesswork.

Thanks guys- I've ordered a set of BC Racing with softer springs, but I've been too busy to pick them up. This Wednesday it happens, but we probably won't get time to fit them until after the last ARC National Rally in Tasmania. Josh wants to do that in the Evo3, and seeing the gearbox blew up in yesterday's Bathurst Rally we have some work to do! He still had enough points to become NSW champion.

Ok, here's the parts list for the AE82 FX16- https://japan-parts.eu/JP/6/MC9689C.png ..and here's the same for an AE92 https://japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1990/corolla/ae92-aemvf/5_151120_049_/powertrain-chassis/4803_front-spring-shock-absorber You'll note the struts are the same, as are the shocks and springs, so there are no differences there. However the AE92 only has shock inserts available, while the AE82 has both inserts and wet struts listed. The wet struts can be re-valved at home. Zerotohundred.com say that they are the same struts through AE101 & 111 except for the super-strut models. Barry Manon lists them separately, although they look identical... Stock photos I suppose. He could valve a set for rallying I'm sure. https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/mrp-coilovers-corolla-ae82-2/ https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/mrp-coilovers-corolla-ae101-ae111/ Did the AE82 come with suspension and geometry data? ..and how much travel can you get in the back?

Sell it and get a RWD!! ...or a 4WD as all those models had 4WD Tercel options. What shocks are in it now? Why change? Your problem is simple, you need gravel suspension. There 's a good reason the shocks are turned upside-down for gravel, it puts the outer shaft in the top bush and keeps the thin shaft protected down inside the tube so it doesn't get bent. Also, gravel shocks extend very easily and compress with difficulty, to keep the car high. Tarmac shocks are the opposite and suck the car down onto the road all the time. As I'm sure you have found, all the aftermarket coilovers are tarmac designed, and usually can't be re-valved for gravel. In the good ol' days struts were 'wet tubes' so came apart into a hundred pieces and the valving could be changed at home. Since the 80s its cheaper to manufacture sealed units so they cannot be re-valved. So going to AE90 stuff probably won't help, you will still have a shock that pulls the car down and now has incorrect geometry. There are a couple of companies in Aussie that manufacture shocks, but at $8000 a set you have to be pretty keen! In Sydney there is a mob that re-valve Bilsteins for RWD Corollas, both front and rear come out of heavier vehicles so the shocks are built heavier than Corollas. The fronts are still upright though. MCS and their new offshoot start from scratch with just the hub foot and run remote canisters for oil, hence the heavy price. You're still better to put a cage in a 4AGE powered RWD Corolla GTS or whatever the AE86 was called over there! FWD sucks on gravel!

A four-speed right? So 4th is where the motor works hardest and things break down easiest. When you're doing a cruising speed and it happens, push the clutch down and turn it off, then coast to the side of the road and take out the plugs. See if one spark plug is worse than the others, and start chasing the electrics for that plug- swap the plugs around for a while, do another plug cut and see which cylinder is bad. Same cylinder or same plug? Swap a lead if you can and try it, replace the distributor cap. If the plugs look the same, the problem is more general- On cruise the advance goes high, so it could be in the weights & springs below the distributor base, the points, the condensor or the coil. Check the rotor and distributor cap too, look at the leads one wet night with the motor running and see if they are leaking high voltage. The carb runs on the main jets at cruise, adds the pump jet to accelerate, so maybe it leans out on the main. It will use less fuel when cruising so enough fuel gets delivered for cruise if it accelerates in 4th, and that rules out fuel filter and pump as the cause. "as soon as the clutch is pushed in idle just drops to nothing and stalls out" Cruise and idle activate the PCV valve, so clean that out with petrol and make sure it seals when you suck in one direction, and flows in the other. If its not sealing it will lean the motor out at cruise and idle. You might have the fuel cut-off solenoid on the side of the carb that cuts fuel when you turn the motor off, but it would be most unlikely that it is cutting in and out at cruise. Let us know how you go-

I pulled a TPS apart a few months back, it basically does the same job as your APPS except it sits on the throttle body. Inside were fine bent metal arms rubbing on a set of carbon tracks that curved around a plastic disc. Obviously the first few mm get rubbed a lot, while the full throttle end of the tracks never gets touched. I expect you've rubbed the first mm or two away over the years, so on a stock computer it is a throwaway, or at least a custom throttle stop job. You could- -Stop the throttle going all the way back to zero, although I expect there is an idle switch in there to tell the ECU to idle, and if you stop the pedal in front of that short contact the ECU will not know it is at idle. You might steal 2 or 3mm of pedal and still get idle. You would need a bolt on the floor to stop it returning all the way, something you could adjust. -Study yours with a multi-meter and see exactly when it makes a circuit. Then head for a wrecker and search for one that switches on earlier. I expect most old Corollas suffer the same problem. The Haltech ECU I fitted recently asks you to click on a computer when you have zero throttle, and again when you are holding full throttle, so Haltech don't worry about where the pedal is in reality, they set the ECU up according to where you want idle. Sadly I doubt a Toyota ECU can do that.

Well, the wideband made a big difference, and the Haltech will auto-tune a cell to the AFR you set. Now it cruises up to about 30% throttle slightly lean at 15-16AFR and drops to 14-14.7 as soon as you boot it. The wideband keeps the range of mixture quite tight, unless you lift off or accelerate, just as it is meant to. This is the run home up a big rolling hill then along the flat top of it for a few Km, then up a ridge into town, as shown in the bottom little graph. The flat bit in shaded pink is magnified in the main picture. RPM is red, sitting between 3000-3500, throttle is blue, going up and down over little rises in the flat land, and mixture is yellow, 0 is 14.7 on the graph, and -1 is about 15:1 Cold idle is still poor, more work needed, warm idle is dead stable, a big improvement on the stock ECU. Coming off over-run in town is still jerky, that first tiny touch of throttle makes the advance jump too much I reckon. I'm working on getting a COPs kit next, and when I fit that I will wire in the idle-up valve so it can get extra air for cold starts. Radiator seems fine, it must have been a hose clamp leak putting the green stain there. Gearbox feels much more positive from the new selectors, but still quietly whiny in 5th due to no new bearings! No oil leaks at all, so the new crank seals and the silicon instead of a sump gasket are working well!