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altezzaclub

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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. Well, rigging a load cell on the arm would be right up your alley, you just need water to provide the friction force and keep it cool. If you weren't in QLD I'd say hook it up to an electrical generator and run power to your hot water cylinder! Something to plan in the future...
  2. Dyno! You'll need a dyno to tune it to the best ignition timing curve and see how many more KW it gives! Even a simple water-driven setup...
  3. That's good, major problem sorted! Turn the ignition on and take off the dizzy cap. Stick a flatblade screwdriver across the points and open & shut them. You should see a good fat spark. If you do, stick the lead from the coil near an earth and see if the spark jumps from the coil lead to the car body. Say 3mm gap.. If you don't see a points spark, the problem is prior to them. No ignition current or the points are shorting out etc. Have the points open and check for 12V with a multimeter or test light. No spark or if the spark is weak, it could also be a condenser problem So, no points spark, chase the 12V supply, chase the points earthing when they shouldn't, change the condenser. Points spark but no coil spark, maybe the coil is a dud or there's a break/short in a wire. Measure the resistance of the coil circuits. Yes, electronic ignition is better, but beware the advance curve in the usual electronic dizzies sold is a dog, the car will be slower unless you change the springs under the plate.
  4. I've only got the wiring for a KE70, but I expect they are similar. The motor is where the speed is controlled, the +1 and +2, so you need to check if you have a blue/orange (L/O) & blue/black (LB) taking power to the motor when its all turned on. Your colours might be different. The S pole is the self-park & flash power for the washers, so you get the one wipe then park. If you don't get power from the LB then you know the problem is in the switch. Stick a temporary power wire into the LB and see if it speeds up, then you know if the motor is good (or not). Take the wiper arms off if you haven't already and oil the many joints and pivots...
  5. "passing through the camshaft bearing journal once every two rotations, of the crankshaft. " Isn't that clever! So if you slowly turn the crank bit by bit and use the drill there will be a spot where you see oil come out of the rocker feed. Then you can leave the crank alone and assemble the head to pump oil right through the whole rocker system to confirm. Failing it being the speed of the drill plus the cam restrictor, the only other point is the oil pressure relief valve. ..or a blocked oilway inside the engine. For that it would have been a very sludgy engine to rebuild, although I do remember a Holden FJ wagon that had a rocker seize because the oil was never changed. We tried to do a compression test with a big drill one time, it didn't work at all and it showed how much grunt 300W of starter really has.
  6. ..and there's the old idea of spinning the pump with the dizzy out and an electric drill holding a screwdriver bit. Never tried it..
  7. Ok, you've solved the first part! Now the oil pump turns.. So, you might have a broken sensor, one that stays 'closed' when there is oil pressure. You might have a pressure relief valve stuck open so oil pressure can't build. Take the oil pressure sensor off and crank it, see if oil squirts out. -If it does, take the filler cap off (might have to be the whole tappet cover) and look for oil coming out of the rockers. (pumped up through the rocker shaft) -If it doesn't come out the pressure sensor, check & clean the oil filter housing internally, that's where the relief valve is. Look inside the filter to see if its full. If that doesn't help, crank it with no oil filter housing and see if you get a mess on the floor... If no mess, the oil pump isn't working for some reason or another. If it is working, you might be loosing pressure to the head, and if oil is getting up there the sender must be crook. The lifters can't effect oil pressure, the oil gets pumped up to the head through the gasket (which better be on the right way up!), runs along the rocker shaft and comes out the squirter holes in the rockers, runs down onto the valves on one side and runs down the pushrods to the followers on the other, so they are all lubricated by oil draining back to the sump. The fuel pump should run a 5K with no problem, and I haven't heard that here is a metal plate to stop the arm snapping, that should only happen if you don't have the insulating block in there.
  8. Also very interesting, I've just read that the Ford/Mazda combine means you can fit a 2L Duratech Ecoboost motor from Ford to a J160 6-speed Altezza gearbox from the MX5... I'm not sure if the Fiesta 3cyl Eco is part of it,or just the 4cyl motors. Its getting very hard to find a modern motor in RWD format.
  9. Continue what you're doing... chase the timing chain and see why its not turning the cam. Broken cam? Lack of woodruff key? Broken chain? Something in there is not right, and I can't think of a shortcut to check it that doesn't involve pulling the cam cover off and turning it by hand while you watch.
  10. "Yes, it does say "ORANGE" on the lid," ..as it should! Nicely done Sir!
  11. OK, not the same. The 4AGE has three wires to the dizzy, Ne, G and G- Inside the 4AGE dizzy are two setups, both busily counting teeth. Only 4 on top, like you say, but 24 on the bottom. Other 4AGEs had 4 on the bottom & one on the top. So you're not going to drop a 4AGE one in there...
  12. I'm just looking up some stuff for Banjo in the 4AGE manual and I see the primary windings on the coil should be 0.5-0.7ohms, cold, and the secondary between the +ve and the high voltage terminal should be 11-16ohm. Just check your coil is the correct one for a 4AGE.
  13. That sounds like plumbing that will work.. mind you, we will want it flow checked to confirm! The 4AGE runs a fuel pressure regulator on the return line, set to only 45psi. The diaphragm line goes to the inlet manifold so when you boot it and the vacuum drops to nothing you get a quick enrichment as it closes the return line and puts the pressure up, an electronic pump jet! ...and now you've done away with the distributor you'll have to make your own cam sensor! The 4AGE uses the dizzy readings to act as crank/cam sensor. What did the 7K ECU use originally? Do you put the original dizzy shaft back in with one magnet set to #1 firing? I suppose that depends on what the ECU needs to read.. Have you compared the 7K ECU pinouts to the 4AGE's? Are they the same vintage, the early 80's? Toyota tended to do the minimal changes to stuff between cars then. You might be able to swap a couple of systems over, like that fuel reg and the dizzy setup.
  14. I see you have a different igniter to me, I think they are quite specific but I don't know which type works with what coil or ECU. The coils have to be low-impedance so the stock 4K coil doesn't work. Well, I assume they burn the igniter out, but maybe they don't produce a spark. My igniter has 19070-70120 & Hr on it, the coil has 90919-02113
  15. Well, you wouldn't need much water flow when the t'stat is closed, its all still under cold start conditions. When its at 60deg for 20seconds & climbing, would your idle be too fast?? Then it hits 70+deg & the t'stat stats to open and you get warm water through the waxstat. A bigger factor would be the pressure ratio in the line due to the pump, you'd need to come out of the back of the head and feed into negative pressure side of the pump where the lower rad hose goes in. The t'stat housing will be at positive pressure, the same as the head. I suppose its the same as the heater hoses, anywhere that give circulation or the waxstat will lag warmup by a few minutes.
  16. Ah, you have my sympathy, it drove me mad a few years back when I put a 4AGE in The Girls KE70.. Here's some photos, as I haven't got time to hunt down the real solution until tonight- Make sure it has 12V to the coil on cranking, not just with ignition on. Otherwise, check the colours on my wires and see if they compare, read how I did it with the KE70 loom, and take a look through the wiring diagrams. Mine is a bigport, but some diagrams are for smallports. Here's a bit of my notes on it- "In the KE70 chassis loom there is a circuit for the ignition B/O and purple wires that runs right around the engine bay, a very handy situation. This takes ignition power from the COR box to a relay I fitted by the 4AGE coil & powered from the battery. This gave Ign power to the coil & I used the purple wire to take the coil-ve signal back to the COR side where it plugs into the KE70 black tacho wire. The KE70 chassis loom supplies the starter motor with power and cranking signal as usual. So now the KE70 chassis supplies ignition power and cranking power, and receives signals back for the tacho. The KE70 wires for oil pressure and temperature were used, although one was lengthened. I fitted the KE70 temp sensor which gave the correct reading on the dash gauge. Rob tells me there are several different temp senders listed for 4Ks, and they read twice as high as a 4AGE one. When I checked the resistances on mine that was true" --------------------------------
  17. Ah, I see, it uses an old bimetallic mechanical system plus a computer controlled system as well. I found the other sort, the PWM linear valve, explained here- https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/onlinehelp/html/PWMBasedIdle.html That runs a 2-pin system so the Haltech can control one of those. I might leave the waxstat in The Girls KE70 as it gives a good cold idle at -2deg, and see if a PWM can control the warm idle. The Evo3 rally car runs a Bosch unit like that, only they're $330, while a nasty copy for Audi/VW on Aliexpress is $20 !!. Anyway... next year's problem.. by then you will have your 3-wire sorted out and we will both know more.
  18. Would the electrical side to be a sensor, rather than an activator? The 4AGE has the waxstat that opens and closes an air valve depending on temp, and the ECU must read the oxy sensor in the exhaust to see how much air has gone in. So cold idle has more air & fuel, reducing as the motor warms and the waxstat closes. What if yours has a waxstat to regulate air volume and the rotary windings that look like a TPS are telling the ECU how much air is being let in? If the rotary part turned the waxstat part you wouldn't need a wax cylinder, the ECU would control the air volume like a stepper motor. There's too much I don't know! I'm about to learn another lot as the Sprinter came back looking like this after Steve drove through a particularly deep stream at the Batemans Bay rally. While we could spend a lot of money rebuilding the 4AGE, he reckons just move onto the 3SGE that is sitting there awaiting the Orange Cake. That makes sense, but it will take longer to do and I remember the electrics of fitting an ECU to The Girls KE70 were quite taxing... Looks like I'll have to step up a notch in Toyota electrics, its time to learn laptop tuning & troubleshooting..
  19. Ah- also, see if it changes picking up fuel if parked facing downhill or uphill. A crappy fuel pump is a possibility if it doesn't actually suck well. You can take the top off the pump and check for dirt under the valves inside. How's the fuel filter look?
  20. Take the sender unit wire off the top of the fuel tank and short it out. If the gauge reads full, the sender unit is faulty. If the gauge reads half, the wiring or gauge is faulty. The new sender units on Ebay only go from empty to half when the tank is full, or from half to full so you run out at half. They just don't have enough range. Throw the auto away and fit a K50 or a K40 if you can't get the first. The car will accelerate faster, actually go up hills, & use less fuel. Buy the whole system, a flywheel, a clutch setup, gearbox and driveshaft, pedals. Beware that the manual boxes have unique bearings that are no longer available, so once they get noisy or die that cannot be repaired. Start saving for a 4AGE motor & T50 gearbox if you're going to keep the car! Gearbox conversion in here- Throw a picture up!
  21. Well, crunch time is coming.. Subaru done, AE86 getting there- The main jobs were to extend the roll cage with a pair of roof bars from the windscreen to the rear suspension, an X in the main hoop and a set of Sainz bars down the A-pillar. Turned out, modifying a cage is much harder than building one from scratch, but its now up to modern specs for gravel work. The seat mounts also needed upgrading- so they now have the expected pipe mounts- I refurbished some of the 14" Corona steelies we used on the Purple People Eater, so new tyres on Stage one- and one of the few jobs to be done in the next 4 days is to finish a gearbox guard as the J160 sits very low at the back, which is why I had such strange side mounts on the PPE. We measured the rear suspension carefully as the Bilsteins were leaking, and ended up putting a spacer above the bump stop to make sure the diff stopped before the shocks bottomed out. We've used this model Bilstein for years and always had leakage problems after a while, hopefully this helps. Otherwise, whoever built the car did a good job. It was a gravel car for a while, the underside is ruined, but then a tarmac racer as the gearbox & mounts are un-marked. So its back on the gravel down at Batemans Bay this weekend coming!
  22. I can't remember if the bearings are the same, I think they are interchangeable, but 4AFE are only 7bolt and 4AGE are 8bolt for the flywheels.
  23. That's wonderful! I suppose its just got twin carbs and a cam, and it looks like just a main hoop roll cage. Life was so simple in those days! I hope you take it out to the occasional sprint and give it a good run!
  24. I don't know which particular one will fit, but there are three different sumps on 18RG motors, so keep an eye out for sumps & oil pumps as well as cross-members. You might be able to match an available cross-member to a different sump, Coronas and Celicas and whatever... There's a bit in here- Mid-sump photo https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/?tab=comments#comment-641089 Front-sump on this page. Note the oil pump mod someone did to make it fit! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page/3/#comments
  25. Hmm.. March to June, it is getting like Project Binky! The 5 is sitting awaiting its next run up at Leyburn, we've had three events with it and it is superb. The Evo3 however... well... The Cake was left behind the Evo3 as we pulled the motor down before the Orange rally in May and found a spun bearing and two cracked pistons. Josh bought a random motor from someone and a mate mailed up a box of pistons with rods and we ripped into it. The block from the new motor was good, still faint hone marks. However two pistons had collapsed ring lands and those cyls had detonation marks on the head and piston crowns. We took the block and crank. One set of pistons in the box had the rings frozen into the grooves with gunk, just plain never-change-the-oil gunk. It took a couple of hours to clean them up, and then we selected the best set of rings from all the ones we had. The head off the original engine I stripped and did a valve grind, Big G assembled the block with its mis-matched components and off we went to the Orange Rally. Things went OK until the flange nuts on the exhaust manifold came loose and we lost boost as the turbo dropped. That was from making a new manifold completely after the old one suffered fatigue & cracked in the Oberon Rally the month previously. More work needed as Josh found the turbo had side-play from having to use a restrictor for CAMS events, it was over-spinning and sucking itself up the intake tube, giving the bearing a lot of side thrust. Buy a new twin-scroll with bushes instead, push the Cake aside and make yet another new manifold. The gearbox and diffs arrived back from Adelaide after a check on last Wednesday & were fitted. The motor went in on Thursday and Josh could start making a new dump pipe to suit, and I finished in time to hit bed about midnight. He kept working.. I was up at 5am Friday & dragged him up at 7am to finish what we could. We left some things to be done before driver's briefing on Saturday and headed for Sydney, 8hours late at 2pm. 4hours later it was on a dyno, and at midnight Friday we loaded it back on the trailer, tuned for the new twin-scroll. We headed for Bega, 6hours away.. When he cunningly handed the Monster truck over to me about 2am and went to sleep, I found the heater didn't work.. -3deg outside at Canberra, ice on the outside of the windscreen, fog on the inside.. Arrived in time to unload it and start getting ready, Josh had been given #1 start but talked his way into getting #10 instead. First stage gave a terrible clattering sound so he slowed down and drove to the end, came 12th but on looking underneath he found the weight balancing the driveshaft was hitting the plastic underbody we'd just fitted. He said "Oh, I need a recipro saw..", and a guy standing there said "I've got one of those, here.." He was the medic for the stage and had one to cut people out of cars! So, plastic cut, into car, get control time and start immediately.. come first. Go to next stage.. come first again.... go to next stage.. hold cow! First again! By now he was second overall and followed up with a second place and a third in the next stages. Another refuel and we fitted the spotlights, & off into the night. All was not to be, over a bridge and brake for the left-hander to find no brakes! Up the bank fly over the top and into a storm-water retention dam!! So, we go out to the stage and wait for the follow-up to open the road, and pull it out with the Patrol Monster-truck. The inevitable locals turned up with giant utes with winches and lots of beers and helped, and it was just after midnight when we hauled it back to the motel. Damm, its Sunday & I last went to bed on Thursday! So we went and spectated on Sunday then drove home Monday making plans! Today we water-blasted it and put it on the hoist to take photos of the chassis rail pushed back into the driver's floor and the radiator rail crushed on both sides. The K-frame is a writeoff, but mechanically it seems OK. The most likely explanation is Josh took rear bias off before the night stages started to ease the pressure on the rear pads, but the Evo5 has the bias control knob turning the other way and in the dark he turned even more rear bias into the Evo3, and arrived with no front brakes at all. I hope he's right as I wouldn't want it to be another explanation we miss and have it happen again! Anyway, we will put it aside for 6weeks as we must finish the Subaru cage. Then, because the Cake was taking so long and Stephen wanted it with an Altezza motor & 6-speed, he went and bought an AE86 rally car that needs some modifications. So, Subaru, then AE86, THEN back into the Orange Cake at least to get something done before we start on that Evo3 again!
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