altezzaclub

I'd find the weight everything you're thinking of fitting,the weight of the XT130 setup put me off it in the end. The last thing you need on a light-weight Corolla is a lot of unsprung weight pounding up and down.

Check out the BCRacing coilovers at Justjap, and Manon Racing brakes in NZ. BCR have coilover kits that get welded into your strut base, and kits complete with a stub axle. Manon do brake kits for 13" and 14" wheels with Wilwood calipers. I'm organising both for my KE70, but you may find gear that will fit. PerformanceSuspension as PSR are also local and have a wider range of springs for their sets. They do XYZ shocks with them.

"makes one click noise and nothing else. " Often a symptom of a worn ring-gear/starter gear and a run-down battery. The motor usually stops in the same position so a few teeth on the ring gear get worn out and the starter gear jams as it engages. One click and nothing.. You've solved the battery being flat by now, & the other is as you said, the solenoid contacts are burned away. Check the compression/spark as Banjo said and tow start it in third gear! So long as you can get red ignition lights it will run... ah wait, it might be an auto... That wouldn't work for the worst possible Corolla I can imagine, a 3K with a crappy GM 3-speed auto! 'Don't expect much if you can smell old fuel, it will need a general cleanup to run nicely.

It sounds like you might need to do some fabrication. From a KE70 point of view, the manual part is just an add-on stuck onto an auto pedal box. ..and the KE70 ran two different manual setups- Good luck with it!

Hover your mouse over his name and he was last here in 2016, so you're probably on your own. Why do you want it off? Rust removal? Painting it? Can you get away with leaving it on at all? Have you got the spot-weld-removing drill bits? I prefer the ones with the spike built into a flat bit, rather than the hole-saw type.

They often do stick on. Put the steering wheel back on and hit it with both hands up towards you, leave the loose nut on to stop it flying off and hitting you. If you've done that and its stuck, its time for a bearing puller.

They look OK for shape. What am I missing? Which part do you reckon is different? That's quite a job you have ahead of yourself, a bead-blaster would be good!

A walk around a wrecker's yard is always educational. say you looked at all the 4AFEs.. Parts that are missing show model faults, so if there are distributors missing off a few, or throttle bodies, or heads, you know what the model faults are. They're a very common & reliable motor, but old and worn out I'd expect. Mind you, that price just can't be beaten, if it runs its good!

Lol!...and that's the way it goes with all car modifications! The 4AC is a single cam driving 8valves, and a 4AFE a twin cam 16valve but with only one cam on the belt and the second cam is gear driven off the first?? So 57KW to 80KW I jumped from 4K to 4AGE like a lot of guys on here and never saw a 4AFE.

Well, that's good to know! Hopefully he gets a good few years trouble-free running out of it!

You don't want to put a whole 4AFE motor in there? It would be a great upgrade.. Hopefully a clean will fix it as you'd need to try the 4AFC carb on it to see if the bolt-holes line up and the cables fit. If you have a 4AFC carb there just pull the old one off and clean them both on the bench, then fit the one with the least worn throttle shaft.

Don't sweat, he'll love a manual when you convert it! This question- " Is the oil coming out, when draining it; milky, or aeriated in any way ? Does it appear to be thin, like it has lost it's viscosity ? " ...and is there oil in the radiator? I'm not an auto man, all I know is the gearbox oil is cooled in the radiator and that's the only place that would add or reduce oil level unless there is a puddle under the car. Doesn't checking the auto oil have to be done with the gearbox warm and the motor running at the time?? That would alter the oil level too as the pump inside the gearbox fills pistons. I'd expect oil level to go up with the motor off. My son's first car was an old 1980s Nissan Pulsar wagon from the auctions, they all blew up gearboxes and it was dirt cheap... his first education was on how to change Pulsar gearboxes!

Well, I've never bought an OBD scanner, I just bridge the wires and count the flashes. America changed from OBD1 to 2 in 1995, so I guess you could have either. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/95-corolla-obd2-or-obd1.166019/ The OBD2 scanners are cheap- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/296556531303?_skw=obd1+scan+tool&itmmeta=01J88R5ATC8J3J1VCJQ6TX40QF&hash=item450c258e67:g:urcAAOSwjn9mjJpY&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmFKLjyhb%2Bl%2B80LcrjWpzfP18U0mkZdicM%2BtoEJmrQg8BATLgyWWbCdsp9m8XmCrmo1EkC2T4S9et6aRKhzwOzo9FN4hh7dY8CZtjP9SAM9d0yTXLM%2BQ6NSxouuaezUwNZdUv6XevlkgbVX8Wqw%2BJCJKEfCDgXigJVIohvH4LI0CoiRI0D2bW5t1jx%2ByCuoBLxQ5%2BYQW68I%2FWoH8jArTfnllve8AptmwSxUPv6%2B4gXMHwoSMjh0Q9wbFKUhz4mxO%2FOWgvMO8B3jPQPi6canOH4v3x%2B%2F5yQLuXa6MRiUwObJmw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6itlZjCZA but OBD1 never had cheap scanners it seems, so they're only professional now as you say, $300 and more! Here's the AE110 OBD port- https://www.klavkarr.com/location-plug-connector-obd/Toyota-corolla-8 and there is stacks of people trying to become famous film stars to tell you how to do it- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVuug8dohtI The Geo Prism is the same car I think, like we had Corollas sold as Holdens in Aussie. How did you go with the air filter/PCV valve/spark plugs?

You can retrieve the error codes with a $20 OBD reader, or jumping E1 and T1 in the OBD port. Turning on the ignition puts it into diagnostic mode and the dash lights flash in a timed sequence. https://kirill-kirillsoncarttec4826.blogspot.com/2010/09/flash-codes.html Here are some of the codes, you will find others around on the net. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1377555/Toyota-4a-Fe.html?page=100 If the check engine light isn't flashing then there is no problem that the motor recognises, although in these early OBD1 setups they recognised only a dozen errors..

'I don't think this model has any carburetor and the ignition module in the distributor eliminates the points. ' Ah, my apologies, I was thinking of a 2T motor, but that would be a decade older. So is that a 4AFE motor or similar? Fuel injection and computer-controlled? Any ECU will have fault codes to read as the computer logs problems, you can do that at home. I figure you're in the Americas, and we probably don't have the same model here in Aussie. Yes, electronic ignition, so no points or timing issues. The only thing needed is a change of spark plugs every few years, a vast upgrade on the old systems. The electronics inside the dizzy are more 'work or not work' than liable to break down occasionally then work again. See if the distributor can be turned by hand, it should be locked tight enough to need a spanner and I can't think of a reason why it would be un-done and the timing change, but you never know.... Take a look and see if it has a throttle body at the end of the throttle cable, or a carb. A throttle body and throttle position sensor is pretty bullet-proof, the carb still has carb issues. If its a carb there will be a choke mechanism that can play up, an injected system probably has a cold-start injector. If American, it probably has a stack of anti-pollution stuff on it, I wonder if the oil got into places it shouldn't via that? Out the tappet cover and into the inlet or the many crude mechanical systems they had to reduce pollution back then.

Thinking about it today, is it flooding into the carb making it hard to start and running rich? Did they change a fuel filter? A bit of dirt under the needle and seat, something to chase after checking the ignition stuff.

It doesn't sound like something an oil change would cause, but then again I can't see why the timing would change either. All you can do is check the points gap & timing and see how it goes. Maybe a lot of extra oil would cause heavy breathing through the tappet cover and into the air cleaner to cause black plugs, but cleaning them up should cure that now you've dropped the oil level. If I was keen enough I'd fix the bulbs that are out in my own instrument cluster, but I have to pull the dash apart in a KE70 and its a frightful job. You're on your own there!

'I'm used to calling connectors "pigtails". The multiwire plastic connectors.' Fair enough, I've seen any short bit of wire called a pigtail here and there. I did a search for a 6-wire alty and got a 6-phase, which I'd never heard of... "A standard alternator is generally 3 phase. This means that there are three “legs” of the stator that fire in succession as the alternator spins, A-B-C-A-B-C-A-B-C producing alternating current. 6 phase alternators have two 3 phase stators inside the alternator that are slightly out of phase of one another. The two stators fire in succession like this: A-a-B-b-C-c (the second stator is in lower case) Because they are slightly out of phase with one another, there is a cancellation of electromagnetic harmonics that makes the alternator run more smoothly and more efficiently. This allows for cooler operation, more output from a smaller overall housing, and MUCH better durability. The rectifiers turns the AC current coming out of the stator into DC current. DC current is what is used in an automobile. By passing trough the diodes, half of the AC current is burned off in the form of heat as it is “rectified” into DC current. That heat is what eventually kills alternators. By having (2) rectifier plates, there is much more surface area to dissipate the heat. This is especially important in a high output alternator- as the more amperage the alternator makes, the more heat is generated. Also, by having (12) or (16) diodes (depending on which 6 phase alternator you are talking about) the heat and electrical load can be distributed more evenly throughout the rear of the alternator housing." That's from guys who put 160db sound systems in their 'trucks'. The other 6-wire answers were the little 6-pole altys in scooters that have 6 windings at 90deg to a usual alty.

They look like typical 4-wires altys, the layout is the same, F N B E. So F is WG or R N is L or WL B is W on all E is WB on all. Anything else is not needed in theory. What do you mean when you say a 'pigtail'? Are you referring to the power-out terminal B with the white wire that powers the whole circuit? ..and motors like mine have another 6 wires piled on top of it!

Do the contact labels bear any resemblance to these? Are the wire colours similar? Does it have an external regulator? I can't imagine why they need so many wires to an alty, three or four will do it.

This sounds like your sort of problem- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73556-ke70-stock-air-filter-replacement/ Find a KE70 air cleaner housing. They will be at the wreckers if you're lucky, our local one has them I expect.

'Awesome so red dot blocked off on the vacuum diagram ? ' Yep, I cut a 5-8mm length of nail that jammed inside the hoses and left the hoses in place. Not that any cop ever looks at pollution gear in Aussie.. I don't know about the air cleaner, there must be some differences in the models, but I can't see aircon would make that much difference. There's just meant to be an 'L'-section rubber O-ring on the carb to seal the air cleaner, I'm sure you've got that somewhere. Does the air cleaner hit the choke cable in the top picture?

This is the factory diagram for the vac lines, I marked the ones I blocked off (with a short bit of 4" nail inside the hose..) and the others I kept hooked up. and here's a strip-down of the Aisin carb, might be handy for you.

Well, the 3-wire reckons it lean under power and rich at idle, which is quite likely- The N15 Pulsar I took it out of must have been running well, the sensor was a light grey colour in the exhaust. This is turning right at an intersection, you can see the beige throttle blip up as I pop it into 2nd then accelerate and the green RPM climbs. They both drop as I grab 3rd, accelerate and grab 4th, then cruise. The yellow oxy sensor says lean, but rich as the throttle hits idle, then lean under acceleration. The odd one in the middle of the cruise is typical, a tiny throttle adjustment and the oxy suddenly goes from lean to just-rich, then back again as the throttle comes off slightly. Anyway, there is so much data gathered by the Haltech its amazing! This is just three channels of a dozen, 3 ignition channels, 3 fuel, 2 each for water and air temp, volts, MAP... I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a cheap (for wideband!) $120 wide-band gauge and sensor, and see how that reads.

Well, I've had it running for a couple of weeks, odd trips around town with the laptop recording data and the 40km trip to the workshop on weekdays. The original 4AGE oxy sensor was on there, but gave readings like this- In the top graph, the yellow trace line is the RPM, the skinny beige one the throttle. The heavy beige line on the trace below is the oxy sensor, a one-wire narrow-band. So down the bottom is lean, and it shoots up past the middle which would be 14.7, and goes to rich at the top. On the bottom Data Navigator trace is the whole recorded run, and you can see it was spending more time being rich just before this. So we tossed the stock manifold and fitted a set of extractors with a new two-wire narrow-band sensor. This gave the sort of trace I'd been expecting, the yellow line in the top graph alongside the TPS and RPM, on a constant throttle cruise. However that didn't last and it soon gave just flat line in the middle with spikes occasionally, as shown in the lower graph. So I hit the wreckers and grabbed a heated narrow-band, a 3-wire, and tried that. I'll just download the graph and transfer it here-