altezzaclub

Projects are starting to pile up..We're buried in building rally cars, but I need a full day for both of us on coilovers, brakes and wheel bearings... otherwise I can't drive home! and... Then some time on changing the Haltech to sequential COPs with a distributor converted to Hall effect sensors. Never enough time in life...

Lol!! ..and flea markets are great places for old Toyota parts! You don't want a quick side trip to Cyprus to see the old Toyotas frozen in the disputed border?? Untouched in their dealers showrooms since 1974..

Do you check the fuses with a test light or a multimeter? Its unlikely, but they can look good but not conduct electricity. How did they stop working? Just suddenly one day? After you changed a bulb? Did flashers and dash lights stop together? Nothing else stopped working? I haven't got a copy of a KE36 wiring diagram, so its all guesswork.

Thanks guys- I've ordered a set of BC Racing with softer springs, but I've been too busy to pick them up. This Wednesday it happens, but we probably won't get time to fit them until after the last ARC National Rally in Tasmania. Josh wants to do that in the Evo3, and seeing the gearbox blew up in yesterday's Bathurst Rally we have some work to do! He still had enough points to become NSW champion.

Ok, here's the parts list for the AE82 FX16- https://japan-parts.eu/JP/6/MC9689C.png ..and here's the same for an AE92 https://japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1990/corolla/ae92-aemvf/5_151120_049_/powertrain-chassis/4803_front-spring-shock-absorber You'll note the struts are the same, as are the shocks and springs, so there are no differences there. However the AE92 only has shock inserts available, while the AE82 has both inserts and wet struts listed. The wet struts can be re-valved at home. Zerotohundred.com say that they are the same struts through AE101 & 111 except for the super-strut models. Barry Manon lists them separately, although they look identical... Stock photos I suppose. He could valve a set for rallying I'm sure. https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/mrp-coilovers-corolla-ae82-2/ https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/mrp-coilovers-corolla-ae101-ae111/ Did the AE82 come with suspension and geometry data? ..and how much travel can you get in the back?

Sell it and get a RWD!! ...or a 4WD as all those models had 4WD Tercel options. What shocks are in it now? Why change? Your problem is simple, you need gravel suspension. There 's a good reason the shocks are turned upside-down for gravel, it puts the outer shaft in the top bush and keeps the thin shaft protected down inside the tube so it doesn't get bent. Also, gravel shocks extend very easily and compress with difficulty, to keep the car high. Tarmac shocks are the opposite and suck the car down onto the road all the time. As I'm sure you have found, all the aftermarket coilovers are tarmac designed, and usually can't be re-valved for gravel. In the good ol' days struts were 'wet tubes' so came apart into a hundred pieces and the valving could be changed at home. Since the 80s its cheaper to manufacture sealed units so they cannot be re-valved. So going to AE90 stuff probably won't help, you will still have a shock that pulls the car down and now has incorrect geometry. There are a couple of companies in Aussie that manufacture shocks, but at $8000 a set you have to be pretty keen! In Sydney there is a mob that re-valve Bilsteins for RWD Corollas, both front and rear come out of heavier vehicles so the shocks are built heavier than Corollas. The fronts are still upright though. MCS and their new offshoot start from scratch with just the hub foot and run remote canisters for oil, hence the heavy price. You're still better to put a cage in a 4AGE powered RWD Corolla GTS or whatever the AE86 was called over there! FWD sucks on gravel!

A four-speed right? So 4th is where the motor works hardest and things break down easiest. When you're doing a cruising speed and it happens, push the clutch down and turn it off, then coast to the side of the road and take out the plugs. See if one spark plug is worse than the others, and start chasing the electrics for that plug- swap the plugs around for a while, do another plug cut and see which cylinder is bad. Same cylinder or same plug? Swap a lead if you can and try it, replace the distributor cap. If the plugs look the same, the problem is more general- On cruise the advance goes high, so it could be in the weights & springs below the distributor base, the points, the condensor or the coil. Check the rotor and distributor cap too, look at the leads one wet night with the motor running and see if they are leaking high voltage. The carb runs on the main jets at cruise, adds the pump jet to accelerate, so maybe it leans out on the main. It will use less fuel when cruising so enough fuel gets delivered for cruise if it accelerates in 4th, and that rules out fuel filter and pump as the cause. "as soon as the clutch is pushed in idle just drops to nothing and stalls out" Cruise and idle activate the PCV valve, so clean that out with petrol and make sure it seals when you suck in one direction, and flows in the other. If its not sealing it will lean the motor out at cruise and idle. You might have the fuel cut-off solenoid on the side of the carb that cuts fuel when you turn the motor off, but it would be most unlikely that it is cutting in and out at cruise. Let us know how you go-

I pulled a TPS apart a few months back, it basically does the same job as your APPS except it sits on the throttle body. Inside were fine bent metal arms rubbing on a set of carbon tracks that curved around a plastic disc. Obviously the first few mm get rubbed a lot, while the full throttle end of the tracks never gets touched. I expect you've rubbed the first mm or two away over the years, so on a stock computer it is a throwaway, or at least a custom throttle stop job. You could- -Stop the throttle going all the way back to zero, although I expect there is an idle switch in there to tell the ECU to idle, and if you stop the pedal in front of that short contact the ECU will not know it is at idle. You might steal 2 or 3mm of pedal and still get idle. You would need a bolt on the floor to stop it returning all the way, something you could adjust. -Study yours with a multi-meter and see exactly when it makes a circuit. Then head for a wrecker and search for one that switches on earlier. I expect most old Corollas suffer the same problem. The Haltech ECU I fitted recently asks you to click on a computer when you have zero throttle, and again when you are holding full throttle, so Haltech don't worry about where the pedal is in reality, they set the ECU up according to where you want idle. Sadly I doubt a Toyota ECU can do that.

Well, the wideband made a big difference, and the Haltech will auto-tune a cell to the AFR you set. Now it cruises up to about 30% throttle slightly lean at 15-16AFR and drops to 14-14.7 as soon as you boot it. The wideband keeps the range of mixture quite tight, unless you lift off or accelerate, just as it is meant to. This is the run home up a big rolling hill then along the flat top of it for a few Km, then up a ridge into town, as shown in the bottom little graph. The flat bit in shaded pink is magnified in the main picture. RPM is red, sitting between 3000-3500, throttle is blue, going up and down over little rises in the flat land, and mixture is yellow, 0 is 14.7 on the graph, and -1 is about 15:1 Cold idle is still poor, more work needed, warm idle is dead stable, a big improvement on the stock ECU. Coming off over-run in town is still jerky, that first tiny touch of throttle makes the advance jump too much I reckon. I'm working on getting a COPs kit next, and when I fit that I will wire in the idle-up valve so it can get extra air for cold starts. Radiator seems fine, it must have been a hose clamp leak putting the green stain there. Gearbox feels much more positive from the new selectors, but still quietly whiny in 5th due to no new bearings! No oil leaks at all, so the new crank seals and the silicon instead of a sump gasket are working well!

Here's the general layout, that should help.

I'd find the weight everything you're thinking of fitting,the weight of the XT130 setup put me off it in the end. The last thing you need on a light-weight Corolla is a lot of unsprung weight pounding up and down.

Check out the BCRacing coilovers at Justjap, and Manon Racing brakes in NZ. BCR have coilover kits that get welded into your strut base, and kits complete with a stub axle. Manon do brake kits for 13" and 14" wheels with Wilwood calipers. I'm organising both for my KE70, but you may find gear that will fit. PerformanceSuspension as PSR are also local and have a wider range of springs for their sets. They do XYZ shocks with them.

"makes one click noise and nothing else. " Often a symptom of a worn ring-gear/starter gear and a run-down battery. The motor usually stops in the same position so a few teeth on the ring gear get worn out and the starter gear jams as it engages. One click and nothing.. You've solved the battery being flat by now, & the other is as you said, the solenoid contacts are burned away. Check the compression/spark as Banjo said and tow start it in third gear! So long as you can get red ignition lights it will run... ah wait, it might be an auto... That wouldn't work for the worst possible Corolla I can imagine, a 3K with a crappy GM 3-speed auto! 'Don't expect much if you can smell old fuel, it will need a general cleanup to run nicely.

It sounds like you might need to do some fabrication. From a KE70 point of view, the manual part is just an add-on stuck onto an auto pedal box. ..and the KE70 ran two different manual setups- Good luck with it!

They often do stick on. Put the steering wheel back on and hit it with both hands up towards you, leave the loose nut on to stop it flying off and hitting you. If you've done that and its stuck, its time for a bearing puller.

They look OK for shape. What am I missing? Which part do you reckon is different? That's quite a job you have ahead of yourself, a bead-blaster would be good!

A walk around a wrecker's yard is always educational. say you looked at all the 4AFEs.. Parts that are missing show model faults, so if there are distributors missing off a few, or throttle bodies, or heads, you know what the model faults are. They're a very common & reliable motor, but old and worn out I'd expect. Mind you, that price just can't be beaten, if it runs its good!

Lol!...and that's the way it goes with all car modifications! The 4AC is a single cam driving 8valves, and a 4AFE a twin cam 16valve but with only one cam on the belt and the second cam is gear driven off the first?? So 57KW to 80KW I jumped from 4K to 4AGE like a lot of guys on here and never saw a 4AFE.

Well, that's good to know! Hopefully he gets a good few years trouble-free running out of it!

You don't want to put a whole 4AFE motor in there? It would be a great upgrade.. Hopefully a clean will fix it as you'd need to try the 4AFC carb on it to see if the bolt-holes line up and the cables fit. If you have a 4AFC carb there just pull the old one off and clean them both on the bench, then fit the one with the least worn throttle shaft.

Don't sweat, he'll love a manual when you convert it! This question- " Is the oil coming out, when draining it; milky, or aeriated in any way ? Does it appear to be thin, like it has lost it's viscosity ? " ...and is there oil in the radiator? I'm not an auto man, all I know is the gearbox oil is cooled in the radiator and that's the only place that would add or reduce oil level unless there is a puddle under the car. Doesn't checking the auto oil have to be done with the gearbox warm and the motor running at the time?? That would alter the oil level too as the pump inside the gearbox fills pistons. I'd expect oil level to go up with the motor off. My son's first car was an old 1980s Nissan Pulsar wagon from the auctions, they all blew up gearboxes and it was dirt cheap... his first education was on how to change Pulsar gearboxes!

Well, I've never bought an OBD scanner, I just bridge the wires and count the flashes. America changed from OBD1 to 2 in 1995, so I guess you could have either. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/95-corolla-obd2-or-obd1.166019/ The OBD2 scanners are cheap- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/296556531303?_skw=obd1+scan+tool&itmmeta=01J88R5ATC8J3J1VCJQ6TX40QF&hash=item450c258e67:g:urcAAOSwjn9mjJpY&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmFKLjyhb%2Bl%2B80LcrjWpzfP18U0mkZdicM%2BtoEJmrQg8BATLgyWWbCdsp9m8XmCrmo1EkC2T4S9et6aRKhzwOzo9FN4hh7dY8CZtjP9SAM9d0yTXLM%2BQ6NSxouuaezUwNZdUv6XevlkgbVX8Wqw%2BJCJKEfCDgXigJVIohvH4LI0CoiRI0D2bW5t1jx%2ByCuoBLxQ5%2BYQW68I%2FWoH8jArTfnllve8AptmwSxUPv6%2B4gXMHwoSMjh0Q9wbFKUhz4mxO%2FOWgvMO8B3jPQPi6canOH4v3x%2B%2F5yQLuXa6MRiUwObJmw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6itlZjCZA but OBD1 never had cheap scanners it seems, so they're only professional now as you say, $300 and more! Here's the AE110 OBD port- https://www.klavkarr.com/location-plug-connector-obd/Toyota-corolla-8 and there is stacks of people trying to become famous film stars to tell you how to do it- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVuug8dohtI The Geo Prism is the same car I think, like we had Corollas sold as Holdens in Aussie. How did you go with the air filter/PCV valve/spark plugs?

You can retrieve the error codes with a $20 OBD reader, or jumping E1 and T1 in the OBD port. Turning on the ignition puts it into diagnostic mode and the dash lights flash in a timed sequence. https://kirill-kirillsoncarttec4826.blogspot.com/2010/09/flash-codes.html Here are some of the codes, you will find others around on the net. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1377555/Toyota-4a-Fe.html?page=100 If the check engine light isn't flashing then there is no problem that the motor recognises, although in these early OBD1 setups they recognised only a dozen errors..

'I don't think this model has any carburetor and the ignition module in the distributor eliminates the points. ' Ah, my apologies, I was thinking of a 2T motor, but that would be a decade older. So is that a 4AFE motor or similar? Fuel injection and computer-controlled? Any ECU will have fault codes to read as the computer logs problems, you can do that at home. I figure you're in the Americas, and we probably don't have the same model here in Aussie. Yes, electronic ignition, so no points or timing issues. The only thing needed is a change of spark plugs every few years, a vast upgrade on the old systems. The electronics inside the dizzy are more 'work or not work' than liable to break down occasionally then work again. See if the distributor can be turned by hand, it should be locked tight enough to need a spanner and I can't think of a reason why it would be un-done and the timing change, but you never know.... Take a look and see if it has a throttle body at the end of the throttle cable, or a carb. A throttle body and throttle position sensor is pretty bullet-proof, the carb still has carb issues. If its a carb there will be a choke mechanism that can play up, an injected system probably has a cold-start injector. If American, it probably has a stack of anti-pollution stuff on it, I wonder if the oil got into places it shouldn't via that? Out the tappet cover and into the inlet or the many crude mechanical systems they had to reduce pollution back then.