altezzaclub

Here we go- The points rubbing block should look like this as you lock the dizzy on 10deg BTDC. You can see the rotor turns clockwise as per the white arrow, so you have to set the timing by turning the dizzy body anti-clockwise as per the black arrow. If you did it like this I would believe your work, rather than the timing light, so long as the weights are working correctly.

Hang on, I'm confused about 'beginning' and 'end'. So the rotor turns clockwise, and that would mean the rubbing block of the points touches that red line before it goes over the hump of lobe on the shaft. Is that what you see? I'm expecting that you had the ignition on, the dizzy loose and turned it back and forth opening the points, then set it as you turned the distributor anti-clockwise and the points just opened, which is when they should spark. The rotor shaft turns clockwise so the distributor has to be turned anti-clockwise when setting it. So long as the rubbing block ran over that red line before it reached the peak of the lobe. I can't find any pictures to illustrate it, the net is full of electronic 4K dizzies now, and Ebay stars getting famous...

Ah, no vac advance, I couldn't tell from the movie, it looked like a hose as the camera flashed over it. So that's another possible cause gone. Put the PCV hose back on and see if that makes a difference. Then check the carb tuning. I see you have an overhead linkage between the carb, so if you undo one arm it makes the carbs independent and you can check that each throttle closes cleanly with a 'click' and then do it up again. I assume the rotor turns the way you expect? Clockwise, so the 10deg timing as the points open is ahead of the rotor lobe. That puts the rubbing block where the red line is in this image as the points open, not on the other side of the peak. There is an unlikely chance that the springs & weights are broken, under the points plate. They sit at zero as you set the 10deg by hand, but as soon as you start the engine they fly out to max advance for the timing light. However max advance should be about 40deg, then they hit the stop pin. You could take the points plate out and check underneath that everything is clean, greased and working. Good luck!

It sounds like there is a manifold leak somewhere. Get some plastic tube about 5mm diam by 400mm long and put one end to your ear while listening to each of the carb throats. They should all sound the same. If they do, move the hose around the inlet & exhaust manifolds gaskets, the head and the exhaust junction & where the carbs go onto the manifold. You will hear a leak very easily. If the carb throats don't sound the same, it will be the idle screws that need matching and the carbs themselves. The carbs have an adjustment on the linkage between them to open one and close the other. The idle screw is on each throat. Before you do that, take the linkage off between the carbs and listen to each one shut. The throttle plates should make a distinct clear 'click' as they close, if they don't they are sticking open. It will never run right without the carbs being balanced. "When the engine was on the firing stroke of cyl #1, the inlet retracted fully a 1/4 of the pulley diameter before hitting TDC, which I believe is normal. It lined up perfectly on the timing chain cover. " Yes, I would expect that too. That last 90deg give you the compression. -The vacuum advance hose is still on, so the manifold is pulling the timing too advanced. Always check timing with no vac advance, just plug the tube. After you have 10deg BTDC you put the tube back on and lower the idle speed to something nice. -If you mistook the direction the dizzy was turning and had the spark on the wrong side of the rotor shoulder it could be quite far out, although I'm talking 20deg, not 60! I've done that before. Hmm.. what is the manifold port in this picture for?? Is it open to the engine? A big hole like that will stop it running too. Let us know how it goes.

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Ah, so familiar! They just fill up with rust & sludge in the rear water jackets. Are you going to fit Banjo's bypass to get the hot water circulating around the back of the engine?

Nice second car too..!

"Could of the ball on the bottom of the gear stick broken off" Yes- About 50years ago I put my Lotus Europa in for service and they broke the bit off the bottom. I found it had happened before & been welded, but the mid-mounted North-South engine had a torturous path to the gearbox and a lot of stress on the lever. There's a couple of other spots where a pin could break or selector jump out, but you'll only find out when you strip it. Start with the getting the gear lever out & have a play with the selector rods before you pull the whole box.

I took the easy route and used a Celica, also wider but nowhere near the arches with stock rims. However the Hilux seems to be the most common conversion, although if you're at a wrecker take a look under the newer vans. There are 5-linked rear diffs with disc brakes under some of the vans, and they look lighter than the Hilux.

Bound to be fixable, most likely the 1st gear selector is either broken inside the box or wore the tips out so much it has jumped off the gear. How does the gear lever feel? More sloppy than usual? Jammed solid? In the usual place for 1st gear or further forward/backward?

There is no good news in this area... The layshaft needle bearings are a Toyota product it seems, I have never been able to find any for sale anywhere. This means you cannot rebuild a K series gearbox if they are noisy. The needles mark the layshaft, which they run on directly, grinding away the hard steel surface so it is a massive job to get the shaft built up again then machined circular again. I don't know how to check a gearbox outside the vehicle without pulling it apart. If you could turn 20 or 30 K series boxes by hand at different wreckers you might learn the difference in the feel, or it may be something you just can't feel by turning the shaft with no load on it. Just buy one, try it, take it back if its noisy.. They must all have over 250,000km on by now, so they will all be worn. It is the one component that will take our K series off the road in the future.

Yes, the K40 and K50 boxes are quite easily swapped. The box is basically the same, they fitted 5th gear in the tail section, but there are different tail sections on both boxes for different Corollas. This was to keep the gear lever in the transmission tunnel hole on different models, so you might find a K50 that leaves the gear lever too far back. Same with going from auto to manual.

Well done! The way to set timing is to- Get #1 cyl to TDC by watching the rockers. Put the crank back to 10deg before TDC. Go back to 20 or 30deg before, then forward to 10deg which takes up the chain slack. Turn the ignition on and slowly rotate the dizzy against the direction of the rotor travel then forwards until it sparks. You want the points just opening, and the rotor pointing to #1. If the plug leads don't agree, swap them around. That will give you the coil firing about 10deg BTDC and the car will run fine. Tweak it a bit with a timing light when you have it running. --------- The plug I don't recognise either, it looks far too modern for an old Corolla. Take a multimeter and check the resistance between the motor & the chassis, the alty and the chassis and the chassis to battery negative. They should all be under 5ohms.

Well, rigging a load cell on the arm would be right up your alley, you just need water to provide the friction force and keep it cool. If you weren't in QLD I'd say hook it up to an electrical generator and run power to your hot water cylinder! Something to plan in the future...

Dyno! You'll need a dyno to tune it to the best ignition timing curve and see how many more KW it gives! Even a simple water-driven setup...

That's good, major problem sorted! Turn the ignition on and take off the dizzy cap. Stick a flatblade screwdriver across the points and open & shut them. You should see a good fat spark. If you do, stick the lead from the coil near an earth and see if the spark jumps from the coil lead to the car body. Say 3mm gap.. If you don't see a points spark, the problem is prior to them. No ignition current or the points are shorting out etc. Have the points open and check for 12V with a multimeter or test light. No spark or if the spark is weak, it could also be a condenser problem So, no points spark, chase the 12V supply, chase the points earthing when they shouldn't, change the condenser. Points spark but no coil spark, maybe the coil is a dud or there's a break/short in a wire. Measure the resistance of the coil circuits. Yes, electronic ignition is better, but beware the advance curve in the usual electronic dizzies sold is a dog, the car will be slower unless you change the springs under the plate.

I've only got the wiring for a KE70, but I expect they are similar. The motor is where the speed is controlled, the +1 and +2, so you need to check if you have a blue/orange (L/O) & blue/black (LB) taking power to the motor when its all turned on. Your colours might be different. The S pole is the self-park & flash power for the washers, so you get the one wipe then park. If you don't get power from the LB then you know the problem is in the switch. Stick a temporary power wire into the LB and see if it speeds up, then you know if the motor is good (or not). Take the wiper arms off if you haven't already and oil the many joints and pivots...

"passing through the camshaft bearing journal once every two rotations, of the crankshaft. " Isn't that clever! So if you slowly turn the crank bit by bit and use the drill there will be a spot where you see oil come out of the rocker feed. Then you can leave the crank alone and assemble the head to pump oil right through the whole rocker system to confirm. Failing it being the speed of the drill plus the cam restrictor, the only other point is the oil pressure relief valve. ..or a blocked oilway inside the engine. For that it would have been a very sludgy engine to rebuild, although I do remember a Holden FJ wagon that had a rocker seize because the oil was never changed. We tried to do a compression test with a big drill one time, it didn't work at all and it showed how much grunt 300W of starter really has.

..and there's the old idea of spinning the pump with the dizzy out and an electric drill holding a screwdriver bit. Never tried it..

Ok, you've solved the first part! Now the oil pump turns.. So, you might have a broken sensor, one that stays 'closed' when there is oil pressure. You might have a pressure relief valve stuck open so oil pressure can't build. Take the oil pressure sensor off and crank it, see if oil squirts out. -If it does, take the filler cap off (might have to be the whole tappet cover) and look for oil coming out of the rockers. (pumped up through the rocker shaft) -If it doesn't come out the pressure sensor, check & clean the oil filter housing internally, that's where the relief valve is. Look inside the filter to see if its full. If that doesn't help, crank it with no oil filter housing and see if you get a mess on the floor... If no mess, the oil pump isn't working for some reason or another. If it is working, you might be loosing pressure to the head, and if oil is getting up there the sender must be crook. The lifters can't effect oil pressure, the oil gets pumped up to the head through the gasket (which better be on the right way up!), runs along the rocker shaft and comes out the squirter holes in the rockers, runs down onto the valves on one side and runs down the pushrods to the followers on the other, so they are all lubricated by oil draining back to the sump. The fuel pump should run a 5K with no problem, and I haven't heard that here is a metal plate to stop the arm snapping, that should only happen if you don't have the insulating block in there.

Also very interesting, I've just read that the Ford/Mazda combine means you can fit a 2L Duratech Ecoboost motor from Ford to a J160 6-speed Altezza gearbox from the MX5... I'm not sure if the Fiesta 3cyl Eco is part of it,or just the 4cyl motors. Its getting very hard to find a modern motor in RWD format.

Continue what you're doing... chase the timing chain and see why its not turning the cam. Broken cam? Lack of woodruff key? Broken chain? Something in there is not right, and I can't think of a shortcut to check it that doesn't involve pulling the cam cover off and turning it by hand while you watch.

"Yes, it does say "ORANGE" on the lid," ..as it should! Nicely done Sir!

OK, not the same. The 4AGE has three wires to the dizzy, Ne, G and G- Inside the 4AGE dizzy are two setups, both busily counting teeth. Only 4 on top, like you say, but 24 on the bottom. Other 4AGEs had 4 on the bottom & one on the top. So you're not going to drop a 4AGE one in there...

I'm just looking up some stuff for Banjo in the 4AGE manual and I see the primary windings on the coil should be 0.5-0.7ohms, cold, and the secondary between the +ve and the high voltage terminal should be 11-16ohm. Just check your coil is the correct one for a 4AGE.