wenisman

With much trimming and fettling I got to a point where I was happy with the patch panel. So I tacked the new peice into place Looking along the edge of the bend it still needs some work but it came out ok in the end So the next task will be to make the corner peice.

So I then cut out the old rusted section and I am again manually adjusting to get it to fit. But there is a curve to the bottom of the tailgate, so I will need to use a shrinker to get the right curve. But it's getting close. I have had to straighten the bottom a bit more but it's looking ok at the moment, considering it's just hacked up tools at home

Well I took a short break to switch jobs, but I spent that time thinking on how to proceed. So using the old steering arm, some wood and a vice I made a bend with the right radius. With a few manual adjustments with my favourite hitting stick I think it will fit. So I checked the radius on the other side and I think it will work.

This post isn't really car related, but I'm doing the cycle challenge this month in order to raise some funds for kids with cancer. So I made a stand for the front wheel, I needed something that could articulate to counter the compression of the front forks. So some square tubing, 3mm plate, a rose joint and a mount from a car rack

So I started on the side of the frame which was also buckled. When I painted stripped it I could see that the original repair had just welded the frame to the skin as the two were different sizes. After a little work it was at least the right size again. And then a bit more hammer and dolly work and it's looking mostly back in line I also straightened out the crease a little further up whilst I was at it.

I then decided to try and straighten the frame... it's been a small odyssey. I started with the bottom. You can see the crease mark to where it was originally pushed into. I have had to massage it a long way out but the metal is literally falling apart So I marked out a battle plan on what peices I need to remake for that bottom section. You can see where chunks of metal literally broke off the bottom. I have had several attempts at home to get these right, but I just can't seem to make it how I want to so I'll have to go back to the workshop for some professional advise

So I decided to weld the hole in the window sill with mixed results. But it was better than trying to hold the small peice in place as it would have just melted away. But once it was linished back it looked reasonable

Thanks banjo, I know it's funny but when I started the restoration 18 months ago I had never welded or done any form of metal shaping. I know I took Tafe courses and spent time at a professional shop to learn the skills, but for a complete novice this is a daunting task. All that said I do really enjoy it, you're right in that the process is gratifying to see how this is turning out. But it's funny to think I'm now doing the work at home, and hopefully someone will read this blog, my journey of learning and it inspires them to restore their car. Because if I can do it, well anyone can

There are still some sections that are very thin, even after welding. So along the edge of the window sill I started grinding out the thin material Then a very small patch was made, using my rudimentary tools but it looks like it will do the task. It's tricky to try and tack in place, I will head to Bunnings and grab some very small fridge magnets or thin jawed vice grips to hold it.

Well the linishing back of the welds is done The window sill turned out pretty well. You can see the ripples in the light so I am planishing out with the hammer and dolly.

And then the window sill was welded into place The weld started well, but then there were sections where the parent metal was still corroded so I had to fill large gaps with filler rod But now the main welding is done I'll linish things back and straighten the weld area.

I have had as to take a small break but I'm now back on the tools. I started by welding the bottom of the tail gate in fully. Took a little trial and error as I haven't used tig on my home welder before. But with a little fine tuning I was happy with the result. To try and minimize the warping I did a stitch weld tactic. I welded between every alternate tac, then let it cool before I went back and did the finishing pass.

Just a quick update as I have been busy with work and family life. But I have taken a wire wheel to the frame and skin to remove the loose rust, and completed the first pass with some Scotch Brite. So now that it's clean I have linnished the tacks back so that it can be welded up. But there where some more tears in the steel around the edges, so I have tacked those so things don't warp out of shape before the final weld

And on a side note, after seeing some cars and doing some internet searches I have seen this as a fuel cap/flap option. https://www.haganauto.com/product_p/fd45rqp.htm Would take some work to make it fit Kevin but it's certainly an option.

Quickly putting the skin on the frame, and test fitting back to the car... It fits, a little tight on the passenger side, but I expected that as I still have some shrinking to go to get the profile right. Double checking the glass as well shows plenty of room for the rubber as well. So now it's back at home I'll linish back the tacks and weld it in fully. Then I'll take the wire brush and clean up all the rust and hopefully apply a layer of rust converter and primer.