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wenisman

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    Geoff

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  1. Thanks for the feed back guys, that was very helpful and much appreciated. That self centred steering makes sense, and explains why the rubber is so torn around the ends. I was having banjos exact problem of things weren't lining up when I put them back on the car. So I have backed the nut off and I'll tighten it once it's all aligned. But I will see about what can be done with regards to getting a tapered bush arrangement
  2. Just for context, I attached two photos of the idler arm to bracket interface. You can see the teeth on the crush tube and the indexing notches that are in both the bracket and end washer. Both the old original idler arm and the new 555 idler arm have the same setup. But I'm also not sure how I can replace the bushes. They are just a solid rubber peice. The ke30 idler is different in that it has some bushes that sit between the rubber and the crush tube I believe.
  3. Thanks banjo, I'll back the nut off for now. But without a castlated nut I hope it won't come loose
  4. Hey everyone, I took the old idler arm out of my ke26, but one of the captive nuts stripped off the bracket as it was sized good and proper. So I bought a new 555 idler arm, but the new arm doesn't seem to turn. I have taken the idler arm apart, the tube in the middle has notches that seem to be used to index onto the bracket and the end washer. The rubber bushing doesn't look to rotate, so I'm wondering how this arm was designed to work? Should I just released the tension on the nut holding the idler arm to the bracket until it turns freely?
  5. @KWHPWRDAN I would love some more info on your build. Did you keep the original transmission or did you update or even remove it? And maybe what you did about some mod cons like aircon etc.
  6. Yeah, I'm looking at getting the egt213. A casual 150hp should suffice https://electricgt.com/shop/213-e-crate-conversion-system/ I am drawn to this system because it's the easiest system to install, will without going down the rabbit home of sourcing parts yourself and designing in ev system. But the costs are very high, $49k usd for the v6 equiv crate motor (313 system) is a turn off.
  7. There are a number of people who make parts for the rwd conversion of the duratec engine as they are pretty common in caterhams and Westfield's. I am seeing if I can get an electric gt ev crate motor in aus. If it is closer to a direct drop in then it may be a costly but convenient option.
  8. I am in the middle of tearing down the ke26 wagon and I was wondering if a drum to disc conversion was possible. I was looking at a wildwood unit, but without taking the drums off I don't know the axle offset. Does anyone know what the axle offset on the ke20 was, I have a u code diff so it maybe slightly different but close enough will do for now 🙂
  9. Personally I think that once i have bought and paid for an item, no matter the size and value then I am able to make decisions on how the item is to be repaired/upgraded etc. The prospect that some company can hold me to ransom and say that only they can service/repair an item is ridiculous, especially as the manufacturer will only "support" and product for so long. This is forcing us into an upgrade path that we may not want to take. Its an legal conundrum as we actually own the item and so why arent we allowed to upgrade or service it with whomever and with what ever parts we like. Sure we may void warranty but isnt that our right to choose?
  10. I was actually looking at doing the EV conversion on my ke26, as i was half way through rebuilding the engine and thinking of going efi... there are only 2 issues, the first is do i have $30k to do the EV conversion and the second is where to put the batteries. Easiest solution is to keep the gearbox and drive train and get an adapter plate and bolt the motor in place of the engine. I went and did the EV course online with EV Alliance and the rough ratio for a 1 tonne car is 20kwh will get you 100km of range... that is actually 4 tesla battery modules or about 7 LG Chem modules, this is about 70cm x 60cm x 30cm (and close to 160kg) when you add in the cooling plates and battery management modules and package it in a weatherproof box. Needless to say this is actually a large space that is much bigger than a fuel tank on a car. You also need to consider that you will need to engineer the solution and speaking to my local engineer you can go about 10-15% over the original weight of the car from the factory if you want to be able to register it for the road, so when you add in the weights of DC-DC converter (so you can run the 12v system on your car like lights, aircon etc), chargers, motor, Management modules, adapter plate for motor to gearbox etc you don't have a lot of wiggle room of you only take out an old 3k motor and gas tank. Also the original drive train wasnt designed to take the full torque that an electric motor can put out, so often people have to upgrade the gearbox or at least the internals, and the replace the axles. Whilst I am still looking into the best solution as throwing time and money into an EFI conversion on an old 3k motor is good, is there something that will keep the car running longer? Personally if i can get 200km of range in a battery package about the size of a gas tank then the EV conversion will become worth while, so whilst i have time i am keeping my options open
  11. On that note, does anyone have a toyota ke20/ke26v parts catalogue that they are willing to part with? I have the collision parts manual but that only covers the body parts. I am looking primarily for the suspension parts and the interior parts.
  12. That looks great, the toothed wheel turned out better than I would have thought being laser cut too. But the efi conversion is certainly coming along, should be enough to set up the efi now
  13. https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/products/04122-0855662115-9780855662110-Gregorys-Repair-Manual-Book/ZPN-25461..._ There's plenty around, Google will be your friend in this one. Also a few on ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233607922634
  14. I had the same with amayama, they have cancelled the order as the parts are no longer available. Now I'm waiting for the money to be refunded... Not a great purchase experience
  15. I just had the same experience with amayama. They couldn't confirm the frame number, so I sent them pics of the chassis plate. Then they asked for payment but haven't confirmed of they can get them yet However apparently the seals I want are in stock, so I've paid and will have to wait and see.
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