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Righto, fair bit of catching up to do in this blog!
Been a fair bit happening since last update.
The car has been moved to my dad's place, where we have much better tools and a more appropriate workspace. Despite the abundance of STUFF laying around the garage, we've managed to fit the car in. It's a good thing it's only a small car! -dad's also a carpenter, so you can imagine the amount of gear that's in the garage, haha.
Since the car has been moved;
Removal of remaining chrome trim, quarter windows, door panels, badges, windscreen wipers, etc.
Pretty much everything that needs to be taken off to spray, has been taken off.
Yet to remove windscreens.
Purchased new rubbers from ebay for doors, windows, boot and windscreens.
Paint stripping of roof and right hand rear side.
Sanding down a large portion of the car, next up is inside the door frames of the shell, and inside of the doors themselves.
It probably wasn't mentioned earlier in the blog, but both of the doors had seen better days where the latch is fitted. Driver side door had cracks, passenger side had nasty botched welds. Both doors were repaired recently and are ready to be sanded and sprayed.
Nothing in the way of engine work yet. Still on boring old bodywork :/
Plan to repair my widened steelies that I got with the car originally, but will be waiting on funds, so potentially after the car has been registered and roadworthy etc.
Starting to get the ball rolling after a good three years and almost four months of.... not.
I get my P's march 7, 2017. We are hoping to have the car registered by then,
Fingers crossed. Wish us luck!
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Got started working on the KE on the Saturday just been. Took out the struts and LCA's all well and good. Put in the xt130 LCA and adjust the caster arm to match. Problem is I couldn't undo the tie rod end. So work stopped.
My mechanic helped me and showed me a trick to release the end and it worked!
So Monday after work I fitted the other LCA and all was good until I put the struts in. Never new there was a 5mm difference in the strut tops between the 82 model and the 84.
So now I have to change over the ops just when I thought all was good haha.
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Here's a basic build thread of my T18 Corolla. Pretty basic build to start with, really it's just something to occupy my time.
Started out as a paddock basher and had been attacked by the blokes grand kids with about 6 coats of rattle can race paint.
I picked her up for $300 with no vision as to where i wanted her to end up. Still don't know now haha.
I'll let the photos do most of the talking, with brief descriptions to go along.
Hope you enjoy the thread!
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got to take it for a drive and she runs sweet :)
spare engine on the stand and time to build a racey k motor .... i could put a big motor in it but i think I'm just going to go with a k series motor to keep the car in the theme of an ol school jappa..
Ok in the up coming months i will be starting my next crazzy engine experiment useing a 4k-c with a twist, designated LPG and boost.
FOR THE RECORD...
I have done this befor on other small and large engines.
all manurfacturing of BOTH intake and exhaust manifolds are custom in house.
Turbo is not chosen yet.
Balanced and compression in low 8S.
mild cam and head work (not looking for 8000rpm) and hardened valve seats.
Designated lpg lets you move around more freely with emisions.
Electronic dizzy (i don't want a 5k).
Thats the basics.
work has started on the two types of intakes iv designed so whatever performs best, one looks like a typical early efi intake and the other has more length in the tubing. I chose to make my owne because i can and its oneoff. No pictures untill turn key.
This is a draw through system (no carby) around 8+ adjustable boost.
The block has already been moded, bored to fit oversized acl's and ALL sharp casting ridges ground smooth and turbo oil feed and returns to sump. can't remember what size it was done in 09.
Thats all for now bizzy with other projects but feel free to coment just don't fill it with just use a biger motor pleas. Thanks...
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hey guys, i am looking to make a engine conversion in my 1983 ke70. i am not worried about power i just want it as a everyday car. I'm looking for something that is;
- fairly new
- fuel injecting
- good fuel economy
- an easy / cheap conversion
If anyone has any ideas PLEASE! swing then my way.
this is my corolla i brought for $300 a few months ago its not much yet but i do have a check list i am trying to work through, i am going to lower it on 18" rims, new paint job done by myself, skid pipes out the back, and also need a new clutch. also wondering if anyone has put a quad throttle body on a 4afe motor??
I'm still familiarizing my self with rollaclub blogging system and finding a way to upload my pics to make it more attractive ;)
Till that.. let's blog!
Well today.. got my self a time slammed my wagon with stock leaf spring and put in the Shelby Rims 13' in. Not bad.
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I am in the (slow) process of fixing and customising my little E90 1991 Toyota Corolla, I bought/ got it last March as a birthday gift for $200 and have fallen in love with it.
It doesn't look like much at the moment, but it is excellent engine-wise.
So far I have only added the 2 fog lights to the front, a single fog light to the back (extra reverse light), aftermarket steering wheel & boss kit, seat covers and floor mats.
I have removed the mud flaps to get away fom the grandpa look, and will very soon be adding dark window tint 35%, new paint work on the sketchy patches, custom exhaust and 14 inch rims, thinking of lowering it but would love some advice if this is a good idea or will it change the camber of the wheels and add un-needed stress on drive joints?
All in all, i love the car, it drives well, it just needs a new look.
I'll post again when i add something new.
Well it would seem that about a month ago, after 34 yrs of good service (not all 34 yrs in my care) the lil 3K in me old Rolla decided to spit the dummy and relocate the water to the sump, Yay! :notimp: ..... So after weighing up my options :hmm: I got a 4K sent over from Vic and have been gettin' it ready to slot on in. :yes:
Complete used engine that's in pretty good nick and have replaced rear main seal, sump gasket, oil filter, manifold gaskets, thermostat and all gaskets for thermostat housing, rocker cover gasket, and o-rings around spark plug housings. The clean up of the engine bay and auto box has been fun, 34 yrs of road grim doesn't just fall off lol but all is coming up well. Here are a couple of pics of the 4K , engine bay and radiator which is having a bracket made up to fit a 30cm thermo fan inside the fan shroud. :greenbounce:
After it's all fitted and running the next on my list will be a 2" system, stock system makes it sound like a hive of pissed off bees when ya doin 80km's lol :paperbag:
Hi I hope I am in the right spot, I have a 1968 Corolla complete car and a shed full of spare parts for the same car. It belonged to my sister who has passed away. It has not been on the road for approx 5-6 years. It all must go, open to offers. Central Coast NSW, phone 0425298672.
Hey guys I'm 16years old and have just brought my first car a 79 toyota corolla ke30 4 door, rolling body,i want to keep this car for a while and get it to what i want it to be :y: my friend has written off his starlet with a 5k 5speed which i am buying and just want to know how hard it will be to do a conversion with help from my mates and if their is any mounts or anything that will need to be changed
Any help much appreachiated thanks..€€
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3 years later and dragged it in the shed and now know what to do
got the motor out and box as one and painted the engine bay
sad to see the old box and motor go to sh#t
its been a week or two since i updated thought i would post about it
made holes in the bottom support rail and put in magna gromits and the it sat in and made up top brakets
put top and bottom hoses on
got the TRD leads from the states
push it out to clean up in the garage
got my gauges
now with the cross member i put plate on top and metal tube through chassie rail and then welded a plate on bottom side to reinforce it with a t40 cross member mount
stripped the insides and got the surge tank and pump and like to hook up got the motor almost wired up yay took some pics after stripping and cleaning it
so got all my parts for the surge tank set up and go it all done in the boot thought ill put some pics up
So I've had a few people ask why I don't have any of my cars posted. Well, the Corollas just a standard Corolla, the Hilux is just a Hilux so the only thing left that's remotely interesting is the Silvia. Personally I just don't think my cars that interesting. I don't think I'm doing anything special or different. But anyway here goes;
So the background story with this car, I had my TA22 at the time and I was saving up to import an ST195 GT4 Celica. At the time though I kinda wanted to try my hand at drifting and the GT4 wasn't really suitable. By coincidence a friend of a friend had imported an CA18DE manual Silvia with blown motor and was selling it dirt cheap. I think I bought it with full intention to do an engine conversion, I did look at fixing up the CA18DE and just driving it but I'm glad that didn't happen. I did have a CA18DET around that time but I can't remember if that was ever the intention. Regardless, the same friend had another friend who was selling a freshly rebuilt an SR20DET with standard internals. So I snapped that up and then went about sourcing the rest of the parts for the conversion. In hind sight this would have been MUCH easier with a front cut, but they were pretty scarce and expensive at the time. I had another mate who had just imported a 600hp S13 drag car so I scavenged a heap of parts off that as he swapped them out for better gear. Sometimes I had to buy more than I wanted, e.g. an entire engine just to get a loom, but I sold on most of that stuff so it didn't end up hurting the wallet too bad. So I would have gotten the car around mid 2005 and got compliance and rego with the SR20 in May 2006.
Photo of it off the boat:
And just home:
Shot of the filthy engine bay back in 2006 pre compliance, looks quite different now:
Original specs were something like;
GTiR T28 on a standard manifold
Hybrid intercooler kit
GRID chipped standard ECU
Cusco Zero-2R coilovers (ridiculously stiff, 8kg/6kg springs or something there abouts)
Tomei short shifter
Some mild steel 3" exhaust
17x7.5 Enkei RP01s on the front with nankangs
17x9 Volk Evolution 4 on the rear with nexans (I have a full set of the evos, but the front offsets are stupid, like +48 or something)
SR20 brakes with Endless CC-X pads (scary on the street)
probably some other stuff I'm forgetting...
Initially I had a heap of problems with a rusty fuel tank. Once I got everything sorted out the car made a rather rich 170kW @ 12psi on mercury's dyno.
I never did get into drifting. By the time the car was running on the road I'd gotten over it. I took it to the drags, got a whopping two runs in 4 hours for a best of something like 13.7, could have gone much quicker with more practice. At some point in 2006 I decided to go out to the Saturday afternoon sprints at QR. I put R33 GTSt brakes on the front with Ferodo DS2500 pads for a bit more stopping action over the standard SR brakes and I think Racebrakes RB74s in the rear. I ran a 1:05 first time out which seemed to be considered pretty good for a noob and the bug had bitten. I went to a few more SAS but they got really crowded so I changed over to midweek Time Attack days in Early 2007 I think. I moved off the shitty tyres onto 225/45 Bridgestone RE070s on the front and 245/45 Continental contisportsorsomeshit on the back. Massive improvement on the street, but on the track they still got greasy after a few laps.
SAS Dec 2006:
Time Attack mid 2007?:
Time Attack August 2007:
I loved how the car looked with the standard CA18 wing from all angles.
I went chasing a bit more power so on went SARD 700cc top feed injectors with a SARD fuel rail and the newly released Wolf V500. I had serious headaches with that ECU dropping CAS sync. I changed almost everything I could, shielded everything as best I could but the problem seemed to be heat related. I finally figured out it was the ECU by cooling it with a bag of ice and voila, car drove fine for ages. I returned it and got a new one back with the same problem so I got a refund and moved to a Haltech E8. That hasn't been plain sailing either. The Haltech was good for a while, made 255hp/193kW @ 12psi with HKS 264 step 1 cams.
I did some misc cooling mods in here somewhere, big chinese radiator (was awesome, and cheap!) and a greddy oil cooler kit.
I got really dudded with track days through 2007 and 2008 too. In the middle of a drought and about half of them were completely wet but I still pushed hard and would run 1:08s around sprint in the pouring rain while everyone else is pottering around doing 1:15-20s. Good practice!
After the Haltech was fitted around 2008 I put on the sydneykid Bilstein kit. I still haven't had a chance to do them justice yet, my alignment is all over the shop and I was still tweaking the ride height setup when the turbo issue (below) happened. I don't think I dropped much from my lap time, but they did make the car easier and more fun to drive over the rock hard Cuscos.
With the extra power I was having big problems with rear grip. I chucked a cheap carbon fiber GT wing on which made the car feel less nervous through turn 1 and 2 (placebo maybe? I thought it felt different) and I bought some R33 GTR rims and Hoosier A6 'semi' slicks (they're basically a slick with two grooves). I never ran them on the front because it was still 4 stud but the extra grip on the rear was excellent. I came 3rd (out of 4 cars lol) in the Race class in 2008 behind Darren Hennigs V8 Supra and a BMW M3 despite only attending 1 of the points rounds.
In early 2009 I attended the first public event after the reopening of Lakeside. Noise restrictions were tight, the track surface hadn't been repaired yet and there was no lap timing available. But then the unfortunate happened. The Haltechs map corrupted and started running lean. Despite having a laptop there and my mechanic/tuner being at the track day he didn't want to look at it. Suffice to say I now have a new mechanic. Turbo housing cracked from the heat so I decided it was a time for an upgrade. The GTiR turbo was good, made plenty of power at low boost but it was way too laggy for the power it was putting out, full boost was about 3800rpm! So I pulled that off and replaced it with a GT2871R 52 trim (aka "HKS GT-RS") on a Tomei expreme manifold. The goal was to go for something which could push the power up a bit while improving the response. And this is pretty much the stage that I'm at. My enthusiasm waned through 2009 and 2010 and not much got done on the car. Parts I were getting weren't fitting properly and I'd frequently get the shits and just not want to look at the car. In late 2010 I decided to get moving on the car again. I decided to buy a tow car because it was far too stressful driving the car to the track all the time. One day it was going to break and it'd be going home on a tilt tray many hours later. So I bought the Hilux with the intention of renting trailers. With the car itself I put aside some of the parts (radiator, intercooler) that were frustrating me and replaced them with more a more conventional setup. Des (AE70) helped me out finding some parts through Nissan and around April 2011 I started the car for the first time in 2 years.
Then I decided to quit my job (kinda) and go to Uni, so the car went on hold again. After a few months at Uni, my financial situation is sound and I've started working on the Silvia again. I dropped rego on it because I couldn't justify continuing to pay it so its now a track only car. I decided to strip out much of the interior but I've left the dash and door trims so I can still meet IPRA regs if I want to.
I'm currently sorting out my brakes and getting the car ready to go to the new mechanics to finish off some work for me. The brakes are being changed to rebuilt Sumitomo R32 GTR calipers and rotors on the front (off a mates GTR, cheers Si!) and rebuilt R33 GTSt 2 spot calipers. Calipers are being rebuilt with alloy pistons instead of steel and I'm thinking about possibly anti knockoff springs too (but probably not). Front pads are now Project Mu RC09 Clubracers which should be freaking awesome, they're essentially H16-03s (V8 Supercar pad) on street car plates and maybe some compound tweaks. They look crazy aggressive! The rears are Hawk HP Plus, nothing terribly exciting but cheap and should do the job well. Master cylinder is being upgraded from a piddly BM33 (looong pedal) to a BM44. I'd like a BM50 but I've been quoted $700 ex japan...! Contact me if you have a cheap non-abs BM50! I think I should be happy with this brake setup for a long time to come.
Things to do before sending it to the mechanic/tuner:
Install Odyssey PC680MJT drycell in rear passenger side footwell and wire it up.
Finish cleaning up the tar off the floor.
Finish installing Moroso swinging trap sump (5L capacity w00t).
Wash the dirty dirty thing.
Run the sensors for Blitz oil pressure gauge and Greddy oil temperature gauge.
Things for the mechanic to do:
Install HKS cam gears.
Install Greddy remote oil filter and thermostat block.
Install Tomei N2 oil filter replacement block (this thing)
Fabricate new hotpipe.
Fabricate new LOW seat mount, cut seat mount cross bar out. I'm 6'4 and even with a bride ultra low rail and a Sparco Evo 3 I still whack my head on the roof with a helmet on. Friggen annoying!
Install 1.5way LSD. I'd like a Nismo GT Pro but I'll probably just cheap out and get a Kaaz. Viscous is as good as an open wheeler with 190kw!
Give the engine a once over and get it tuned!
Things to do after (or before if there's time) it comes back:
Install the new calipers and rotors.
Install rear sway bar (waiting on brackets to arrive).
Switch studs configuration to 5 stud on the front.
Have Federal FZ-201 235/45 semis fitted to the GTR rims.
Fit Cusco strut brace.
Have ranko fix my shoddy wheel alignment.
Buy a car trailer! Don't like the look of the death trap rent-a-trailers. Criteria: Light 4-500kg, hydro or electric brakes, not full floor, not cheap and nasty. The goal is to have the trailer and car weigh the same which is ~1600kg each.
The goal is to shake down the car at the November 15th QR day and maybe attend the December 11th Lakeside day and then a balls out attack on the Time Attack championship in 2012. I'm gonna try and attend every single round if I can.
So here's my current spec, some of these parts may yet to be fitted but they will be before the next track day:
Engine and Gearbox
Haltech E8 ECU with Haltech patch loom & 3 Bar MAP sensor
Garrett GT2871R 52 trim .64 exhaust housing
SARD Top feed fuel rail
SARD 700cc low impedance top feed fuel injectors
Bosch 040 fuel pump
HKS Fuel pressure regulator
HKS Cam gears
Tomei Rocker Arm Stoppers
NGK Iriway iridium sparkplugs (heatrange 7)
Nismo engine and gearbox mounts
Exedy 5 puk ceramic button clutch
K&N air filter & hard pipe intake with S15 turbo snout
Blitz SE intercooler
Koyo 54mm core radiator
TRUST V-type oil cooler kit with braided lines & earls fittings
Greddy Remote Oil Filter Relocation with Thermostat
Moroso Upgraded Aluminum Oil Pan
Tomei N2 Super Oil Block
Tomei genuine short shifter (~30% throw reduction)
Tomei Expreme manifold
Tomei Expreme dump pipe
Blitz front pipe
3 inch High flow (de)cat-convertor
3.5 inch Catback into stainless oval muffler
Apex'i AVC-R boost controller
GReddy 62mm Black electronic peak recall boost gauge
GReddy 62mm Black electronic peak recall oil temperature gauge
Blitz 60mm Black electronic low alert oil pressure gauge
Nismo 330mm suede leather steering wheel with quick release
Takata 3 inch 6 point harness
Sparco Evo 3 fixed back, fixed mount seat
Suspension & Brakes
Front: R32 GTR 4 spot brake calipers with alloy pistons on 296x32mm slotted unknown (P-Mu?) rotors.
Rear: R33 GTSt 2 spot brake calipers with alloy pistons on 297x18mm slotted RDA rotors.
Front: Project Mu RC09 Club Racer pads.
Rear: Hawk HP Plus pads.
Maltech braided brake lines front and DIF conversion brake lines rear all stainless braided.
Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
Wheels: R33 GTR 17x9 Rims, Federal FZ-201 235/45R17 tyres
Bilstein mono tube shock absorbers with Eibach springs front and rear
Cusco Castor Rods.
Kaaz 8 plate 1.5way LSD
Selbys front adjustable swaybar
Selbys rear adjustable swaybar
Whiteline rear camber kit
Nolathane bushes here and there
230kW/300HP at the wheels. Shouldn't be a problem, gearbox probably wont like it very much though.
Sub 60 seconds on QR sprint. Should be achievable, semis are worth ~2sec/lap and I'm doing 62s already. I wouldn't be surprised if I can go under 59s next year with the alignment fixed up, the extra power and some tuition. The Option 1 S14 does 56s with supposedly 240kW and apexi coilovers but they've got a bit more aero (front undertray) and wider tyres than me. Ultimately I'd like to be able to go as fast as they are currently.
Under 1100kg without driver. The car was originally 1180kg in full trim, I think I may have achieved this already but I wont know until I get it corner weighted.
Full jungle gym CAMS roll cage, this could happen over the New Years Time Attack break depending on how the bank balance looks after the cars racing again. May log book it as either an IPRA or sports sedan car. Sports sedan offers far more freedom but demands quicker times.
Front air dam and undertray. Probably just consist of a vertex copy front bar and a ply wood or fiberglass undetray. I was looking at the URAS GT kit and while it looks awesome and comes with an undertray, its not low enough in my opinion.
Fix the panels, touch up the paint. The car has one big dent in the passenger side where someones backed into it in Japan. Looks don't really bother me, I'm more interested in going fast, but trying to pick up any kind of sponsorship is impossible if the car looks like crap.
Drop more weight. On going battle this one, carbon fiber bonnet, boot and doors are on the list to do one day along with fiberglass guards maybe.
DRIVE IT MORE! Over the few years I had been driving it I didn't drive it anywhere near as much as I wanted. Going to the track was hugely stressful and wasn't as much fun as I wanted it to be. Stress driving there (am I gonna get defected?), stress about whether the car will survive so I can drive home and then stress again on the way home. Hopefully the trailer, especially if its my own, will make the whole process much more enjoyable. Load the car up the night before, tow it out, thrash the shit out of it and drag it to the mechanics broken and sorry at the end of the day. Hopefully much more fun!
Moar picks later
avalonea - Found the car for me originally as well as the engine and sold me his gearbox (still not dead!). Provided heaps of advice and support over the years.
John (miss13) - Helped me HEAPS with parts and advice, I recon I bought well over $3k worth of gear off him over the years.
Si - Listening to my hair brained ideas and plans, helping me out with parts and contacts.
My brother and father - Helping me out, putting up with my bullshit.
Kev Rowely - for modifying my loom and helpful advice, absolute legend.
Greenline and Nengun - Giving us access to Japanese parts at non-ripoff prices.
FRSport - Cheap parts, fast delivery, shame you're in America or I'd buy even more stuff from you.
Marty at Racer Industries/Project Mu Australia - Awesome to deal with
Rollaclub - for not yelling at me for owning a dirty Nissan.
Sorry if I've forgotten anyone!
If you've got any questions about my setup I'm more than happy to answer them.
Source: The Silvia
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Hi Guys I have a 84 Corolla Ke70 that is currently a Slant front, I was really hoping to convert it to a Flat front so i could put quad lights on. If i get all the panels would the bonnet shut without me changing the arm that holds the bonnet down and also would the lights bolt straight on? need some help if anyone has done this.
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Hi Guys and Gals of Rollaclub,
i'm embarrased and proud to say that my TE27 is in Fast Fours :blush: :D
When I was first asked if i wanted my car featured, I said I didn't think it would be right for that particular mag, but the editor was apparently trying to get a bit more old school flavour into it to get back some readers who may have been turned off by all the modern cars.
anywho, it's the April edition with the VW golf on the front.