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  1. Today
  2. Thanks Banjo/everyone for all the advice once again - I'm in a much better position now to get all my cars sorted. Sounds good Stu, I'm often on Phillip island so I'm around that area sometimes
  3. I'm on the Mornington peninsula so not far away. I can sort you out with anything K motor related. I'll pm you my number when I'm back from my trip. Stu
  4. Last week
  5. Hi Luke, I tend to agree with Keith very much on this one. A newly, fully or partly reconditioned engine's, "first hours of waking life", can be crucial to it'd longevity, as a reliable engine. It's all about engine temperature, tolerances, & oil viscosity. My dash temp & oil guage are the most important instruments in my Rolla. There are some really good general rules. Never ever start "revving the guts" out of a newly started motor, once it kicks over for the first time. It is human nature, & an expression, of human emotion, & sense of achievement, to want to "give it a burl", but it can be counter productive in the long run. Let it idle, & even cover the radiator, to get it up to temperature, as quickly as possible. Try not to load the engine for at least 30 minutes. Never put a very high viscosity oil in a newly refurbed engine initially. After several hours of running; & only when the engine is definitely at operating temperature; you should drain the oil & change the filter. You'd be surprised how much initial "wearing" in of metalic surfaces, takes place during that "running in" period. Same suggestion for the coolant system. However, that can be done after a good week of driving. Take hoses off & really drain it; not just using the tap at the bottom of the radiator. You'd be surprised at the little bits of crud & gasket cement & the like that comes out. Keith suggests watching that temperature guage. This is really important. These engines are designed to run between 80-90 deg C. Taxi's get such incredible long lives out of their engines, because they rarely ever get cold; sometimes running 16 - 24 hours a day, & just changing drivers at change of shift. I may be olde school, but I still take my wife's Corolla out of the garage each morning, & leave it idling in the driveway for 10-12 minutes, before she leaves for the daily commute, to work. This is really important in winter. I've heard it said, by professionals, that more wear takes place in an engine in the first couple of kilometres driven each day, than the wear that takes place for the complete rest of the day's driving. I have a good friend that lives in the Yukon, up near the polar areas, north of Canada, where it is extremely cold, & there is permafrost. They have permanent electric heaters in the sumps of their vehicles, & they plug them into the power point in the garage every night, so the engine can actually turn over in the morning, & drive away initially, without any substantial engine lubricant protection, because the high pressure bypass valve opens, & dumps a substantial amount of oil straight back into the sump. P.S. Regarding your issue with cylinder number 4, you might like to take a look & read these long threads on here, where a few of us, have shared our thoughts, on this perennial issue with K series engines. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/page/8/?tab=comments#comment-713644 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77718-radiatorcooling-help/#comments Cheers Banjo
  6. Hi Luke, Are these pistons & rings going into a rebored block ? Spend lots of time getting your ring gaps correct, by placing the rings in the bore, & squaring then in the bore with a piston pushed down upside down, to normal piston orientation. http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ring-gap If the bore hasn't been freshly bored, then make sure any existing lip at the very top of the bore ,is removed where ring does not sweep the bore. Not removing it, risks losing your new top rings. Arh, the legendary 3KR motor ! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/17848-3kr/ Here's one in full flight . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCwYxmbPaWY (yes, He does get past him, in the end ! ) Cheers Banjo
  7. There's only one astounding 4K conversion.. This one! But it shows that you can bore a 4K block out 6mm!! Lighten & knife-edge the crank, fit a 4AGE head and pull 9000rpm! That block is tough! As for running a motor in, I reckon get it running and take it driving, just general driving without letting the revs drop low enough to make it lug, or booting it so its pulling max power up into the rev range... just keep it lightly loaded driving around for half an hour while you watch the temp gauge. Then again, in South Africa Toyota took the cars off the end of the assembly line straight to the dyno room and ran them briefly at full power before parking them. Who knows?
  8. Yep cyl 4 was the culprit - and I think you're spot on about cyl 4, there was a loss of power occasionally particularly on hotter days - I thought i had a sticking caliper. Truthfully i wasn't paying as much attention as i should of to the Ke30 as i was rebuilding a 12r for my 1973 corona and was expecting it to just survive on basic servicing. I'll definitely get the number for you Banjo, and i'll be doing homework on everything k engine - noted about the 4k as well guys I'll still look at this one this weekend just cause it's already arranged - it might be a good get of jail for the short term or I'll learn the hard way 😂. At the very least i can do all the work myself and not worry as it's not the original motor. 100 is a great price, i live in the Dandenong ranges in Victoria - If anyone knows the area they'll know why i have issues with hills much appreciated all the help everyone, if anyone wants to give me their tips on seating new pistons & rings while we're at it i'll happily take them - that's what i'm doing on sunday!
  9. Like Col, I've had a fair bit of experience with 3K, 4K, & 5K engines. The 4K engine is nearly square (bore & stroke are almost the same dimension). A "square" engine, is regarding as being a more free reving motor, with higher top rev limits.; especially if the engine is balanced. One of the great attributes of any K series engine, is their bottom end. Designed before a lot of "computer input" early Japanese engines were over designed, as they did not want failures of a mass produced car. I've always been amazed at some of the HPs, people have squeezed out of K series engines, without any strengthening of the bottom end, other than maybe hardened studs & nuts, for the bearing caps. K series engines of all formats have had pretty poor inlet air flows. Lots of people have spent lots of time, trying to improve this aspect. There were some 3K engines with bigger inlet valves, which is why I asked you previously, to give us the number of the head on you 3K. Lots of people have experimented with head swaps, to get compression ratios up around 10:1. It is generally agreed that anything above 10.5:1 is counter productive. I picked up a 5K engine here in Qld. a couple of years ago, for $ 100,which was an ex dirt track sprinter car engine. They were very popular years ago, in this realm, & quite reliable. One rainy day, I'll get it going again. It has some flash improvements, including a very fancy oil pump arrangement. Have a read in the WiKi on this forum, & there are plenty of threads, where all sorts of people, who love K Series engines, have tried all sorts of things, to get a bit more grunt, out of these engines. Luke, keep the questions coming, & we'll assist if possible. Where are you located ? Cheers Banjo
  10. I've had a little experience with 3,4 and 5k's. Honestly I wouldn't waste my time with a 4k. If you have to get another motor find a 5k. Real world example - a cammed 5k took 2+ seconds a lap off my time around the Ballarat autocross track. Real world example 2 - up a local hill, the 3k (std healthy engine) would struggle to hold 100km/h in 4th. With the 5k (std healthy), it would accelerate in 5th up the same hill.
  11. Well, I've never driven a 3K, but Wiki says- 3K, 1166cc, torque 67-69 4K, 1290cc, torque 72 5K, 1486cc, torque 85lb.ft The 4K is 10% greater in capacity, and the 5K 15% greater again. You can see that in the torque, the 68 to 72 (6%) is less than a worn motor to a more-worn motor, while the jump to 85 (18%) is noticeable. So not much between a 3K and a 4K. You could warm the 3K up to make it faster, but that is all revs to get power, rather than getting any more torque. You could slip a turbo or supercharger onto it, but if you had that much money for fun you could fit a 4AGE. Even a cam, a head job, twin carbs and extractor, and a bigger exhaust will add up in dollars. A 5K would be a great choice, but there aren't that many old forkhoists or vans around now. The Y motors would be a close fit too, also out of vans etc, and they're out to 2L with 120lb.ft of torque. Price up rings and bearings on the 3K, do yourself a head job if the valves and seats are OK, get it skimmed and look for a cam with more lift but not much more duration. I can't think of a cheaper way for a little more grunt unless you're a welder who can make his own turbo manifold. All that stuff I did to The Girls KE70 made it a lovely car to drive, although fitting the 4AGE to it was chalk and cheese. Not so much faster, but it doesn't notice hills. Oh, and #4 cylinder wasn't doing any work, it shouldn't be any blacker than the others. Was the gasket blown between #2 & #3, the usual place when a head warps? or was it a problem at #4, the area where the motor gets really hot due to shit in the block? Banjo has a lovely solution for that, he made a bypass system that moved water around the back of the head more efficiently. The water holes at the front of the motor are blocked off by the gasket to force water to circulate to the back, so Toyota became aware of this problem early on. You know, you could cheat by fitting a 5-speed box and lowering the diff ratio.. Quicker acceleration & up the hills, and let 5th drop the revs for cruising.
  12. Earlier
  13. Love 2 doors, noted about the 5k i wish i could find a 5k easily - I did however prior to this post go through the throes of teeing up to look at a 4k this weekend so i guess I'll see if it's a good runner or a project you never really know until you start it up. Is there anything i should look out for? suppose to have 130 000kms and have seen regular usage i was just going to pull some plugs turn it over look under the rocker cover - all the basic stuff. I hate to ask THAT question again but in your experience do the 4ks go a little bit better then the 3k? some people say yes some people say no difference atall thanks again
  14. What Dave said!! ..and remember 56% more power will be more than 56% more heat, so get an alloy radiator as well. I expect you'll sink the same amount of money again into the whole project, the new ECU will soak up a lot. The Haltech Sprint 500 is $1200 plus, & tuners don't work for less than $1000. As Dave said, buy the ECU and learn how to use it. Check the sales conditions very carefully, if it blows up you may or may not get a refund. It doesn't run a boost controller by the look, so it boosts as hard as it can and the BOV on the inlet controls the pressure going in. A great way to get power, but they radiate massive heat straight into the back of the radiator and then into the sump as the red-hot exhaust goes under it. With the Mitsi Evos we build for gravel and tarmac rallies, controlling the heat is the biggest headache. If you think your car runs hot now....
  15. Those plugs will fit a whole lot of options the Japanese have but your car doesn't. You'll need to web search a wiring diagram and look at the colours of the wires. Chase the over-heating quite soon, its easy enough to cook a motor over the summer. When does it overheat? and how easily does it cool down again?? Fan come on OK? fan only does something until about 20kph, after that the airflow from moving does the work. Short out the sensor straight to earth & make sure the gauge goes to full hot. Start it cold with the rad cap off and check the gauge when it first gets warm from sticking your finger in it. Check the gauge again when its too hot to put your finger in.. Obviously a thermometer is the best tool, but use what you have. At least you know the gauge shows 'warm' or whatever when the thermostat opens, and hot for your hand is about 55-60deg. That's some sort of range or temperature.If you have a thermometer and find that halfway on the gauge is about 90deg, that's fine, and 3/4 gauge is worth worrying about. Alternatively, look up the resistance of the sensor and measure it with a multimeter, both hot and cold. If it is in spec then the sensor is fine. If the gauge reads correctly at those temps the gauge is OK. Then check the thermostat in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens right up, or just replace it. Pull the rad out and flush it backwards. Let us know how you go-
  16. What are you gonna do about this? "It is required that the car be Dyno tuned by a professional to get maximum performance and proper air fuel mixture. The turbo kit does not include any fuel management system." If you want to play with this id personally recomend an aftermarket ECU first, get it running on your non turbo engine. learn how to tune it yourself. then once you have it running well non turbo, add the turbo. At the same time you can convert to distributorless ignition. Loads of options avaialble in terms of ECUs. the sprint 500 haltech is a good option if you want to buy new, its basically designed for 4cylinder engines. You also NEED a good wideband if you intend to DIY tune, and more importantly a good wide band controller. I personally prefer the Ballenger motorsports AFRv500.
  17. Hi Looking for a 4 door KE30 or KE55. Anything considered but not too rusty! Thanks!
  18. Hi Luke ! I know that feeling. If you want/need torque, then you have to go for a 5K engine, out of a Toyota forklift of a Toyota commercial like the LiteAce van. I had a 2 door KE55 once, that I fitted a 5K to, after driving it previously with a 4K. It was like a whole new car, & it loved HILLS ! Cheers Banjo
  19. Thanks everybody for the advice, good to hear some positivity about the 3k - The 3k has just over 190,000 kms on it, not much for a 3k. Much agreed about the 4k Banjo but i was hoping to get that tiny torque boost with a view to eventually boring out, i live in a hilly area and modern drivers aren't known for patience i'll get some better pics of the head - either way i'll clean it up and hang onto it as it is the original engine for the vehicle thanks again
  20. Turboing my 4afe 1996 corolla. Most likely buying this kit: https://www.turbokits.com/tsi-extreme-turbo-kit-tc2001e.html Pretty confident Ive got my head around the process, but abit clueless about the tuning. From what ive read it seems that a 1996 corolla can only be tuned with a standalone ecu such as a megasquirt. I only plan to run low boost, 5 psi probably. I have a few questions, any help is appreciated especially from those who have experience with similar models. Should I consider any engine upgrades/ replacements prior to installing the turbo what else would need to be purchased that is not included in the kit what other things should i consider that may need to be made such as a mount for the intercooler what would be the easiest way to tune it how long could i expect the whole process to take (only car I have, wont be able to drive anywhere untils its done)
  21. Hey everyone, new to this forum. Got my 1996 corolla off a guy my uncle knew over a year ago. I've always noticed a few unplugged wires since I got it, but it runs fine except it can get quite hot. Does anyone have any ideas to what the unplugged wires are for. They all seem to female plugs so none of them would plug into each other. Thanks for any help. Click link for photos: photos
  22. The scariest article you will read today ! https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2021-11-22/petrol-stations-can-they-survive-electric-car-uptake/100627312 I went outside after breakfast to put the rubbish out. My little KE30 2 door coupe was "whippering" in the driveway. I asked "Buzzy" what was the matter. She stated "I obviously hadn't read the ABC website news feed today". (She is fitted with a 4G internet dongle, so spends her time while "idling"; GOOGLING) There are some difficult conversations, we will have to share, when next I wash her, no doubt ! Cheers Banjo
  23. Hi Luke ! From my experience, that engine looks pretty good. As it's probably original, how many miles has it travelled, according to the speedometer ? Little olde ladies, are not known for racking up big mileages, on their cars. I accept your comments regarding the possibility of going to a 4K, but bear in mind, as these engines are probably 40 years olde, the 4K may be in more need of "care & kindness", than this 3K. Can you look at the casting of the head, on the outside, between no: 3 & no: 4 spark plugs, & take a note of the number of the two digit head type. That might assist us in identifying it a bit more. Your pics don't show it; but on the very back of the head, there is either a plate or a circular water jacket bung. This needs to come out to get access to all the "crud" inside. Sometimes pressure chemical cleaning of the head water compartments will dislodge the crud, but frequently, the plate at the back, is corroded badly on the "inside face", & should be replaced. Cheers Banjo
  24. As well as what Dave said, tip the block on its side and scrape all the rust and gunge out of the water jackets, particularly around number 4 cylinder. The slow water flow at the back of the engine means the rubbish piles up around there and causes overheating. Clean ALL the stud holes out with a rag on a screwdriver, then with a rag soaked in petrol on a screwdriver, then with a bolt of the same thread that has a wedge cut out of it with a grinder or hacksaw. That will clean the threads out. I usually spray it with Brake-clean aerosol after that and wipe them out again with a rag. Make sure you clean all the bolts and nuts, and oil them when assembling. The manifolds need a straight-edge along them too, the differential expansion of the alloy & cast iron distorts them over the years and leaking exhaust gaskets result. What I did is here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/
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