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  2. Hi Max, Welcome aboard ! Have you got a Rolla ? Have you ever had a problem with a sterter ? Cheers Banjo
  3. Hi Iā€™m interested. Are all the parts that still need to be fitted inside the car or boxed up?? Can I see interior pics please.
  4. Earlier
  5. Been a long time since i was on here. A lot has happened but still a lot to go! Car went off and had rust in engine bay repaired (was very little for it's age) and the engine bay has been resprayed factory colour. Pretty in love with the colour 7k and t50 are in and running and currently fitting all new balljoints, tie rods, control arms bushings and idler + pitman arms and having all the front end done in 2k black. Car will soon be heading back to have the rest of the bodywork done and painted.
  6. It did, I came across it on gumtree a couple months back looking exactly the same as i sold it. I ended up having both this, and my ke18 and about 5 other cars and some just had to go.. I removed most of the best bits and kept them for my ke18 and sold the sprinter to a guy down here just after my last update in this thread, then never saw it again until the Gumtree ad
  7. Appreciate all the support Banjo haha, Ke70s here are quite accessible and fun to drive and we buy Ke70s partially also due to ae86s costing close to 40k usd. I understand much more now from the article about how it affects the car but fitting wheel spacers and longer studs seems to be a path for me. As i said before, rims here are quite hard to find because most 15 inch rims are pcd100 or 114 with et33 - et38. Currently i have not bought them and will consider finding more suitable rims. Just wanted to find out more about this issue as some other rolla owners told me they were doing the same with adding spacers. I can agree it is borderline overboard because the specs are a little aggressive but this spec is one of the closest i can find compared to 15x7.5 with et10 or 20. Adding spacers will definitely not make it flush with the fenders though. Thanks so much for the help Dave and Banjo
  8. Wheel spacers are very common; & readily available on line; but there are some serious implications if you "go overboard". Are you wanting to put bigger wheeels on, just for "appearance", or are you wanting to do it, as a performance improvement to the car ? Once you start fiddling with the geometry on front suspensions of cars with McPherson struts, then you have to get the geometry right, or you will finish up with "srubbiing" issue with you front tyres. Here is a good article, that describes the implications; with diagrams; much better than I can. https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/why-you-should-not-fit-wheels-spacers/ Have a read, & if you have any more questions or queries, please come back, & ask them. P.S. I love what some of you Rolla owners do to Corollas in Malaysia. You really worship your cars ! Cheers Banjo
  9. I see, however provided i did get correct mm spacers, would it still fit? I've heard 7.5jj would be a little big for stock fenders however in my country Malaysia, there's not much options because most rims here et38. So having found a et28 was already a hassle. šŸ˜…šŸ˜‚ I know adding correct spacers is more work but i rather do more work and have it fit than spend a few more months to find correct rims haha. If it really wont fit then i wont get them.
  10. The offset is a bit high for a ke70. You want closer to +10 for flush fitting yet stock guards. +28 might hit the strut too especially in 7.5 If you haven't bought the wheels yet i would look for something more suitable that you dont need spacers for. Here is some historic post that i mention that 15x6.5+23 hit the strut on my ke70, so your 7.5 +28 will definately hit. And here is a link to a heap of threads about ke70 wheels.
  11. Hi i am found some bbs rims with the specs of 15x7. 5jj et28, do you think its advisable to get these? If i do, i would put longer studs but have no idea how many mm spacer to use. Right now I'm using stock ke70 struts and the new rims are hitting the coils. My goal is to keep the stock fenders and have the rims flush.
  12. Hey guys looking to do a manual swap on my 1979 TE31 LHD. I have everything I need except for the manual pedal box. Does anybody have one for sale or know of any other pedal box I can swap in? Thanks.
  13. Hi do you have the corolla mud flaps guard available I need the 4 pices
  14. Mud flaps toyota corolla ke70 1980 1983
  15. Hi Graeme, Yes you have something there, that could well be the case. All the dizzies that appear on ebay, are titled as being suitable for 3K, 4K, & 5K. The 5K was only used in commerical Toyota, like vans & forklifts etc. They are designed for torque, but can be made to rev well, if given the right curve. I'm a great fan of the 5K, as it is nearly a perfectly "square" engine. I had one in my KE55 coupe for years, & I got it perculating very well. Many of the 5Ks here in Australia had hydraulic valve lifters, & were very reliable. I bought a stripped down 5K a few years ago, for $ 100, from a guy up in Gympie Qld., who had modified it for speedway racing. With good preparation, & balancing, they could easily achieve 8K revs plus. The bottom end of them was almost unbreakable. I know Altezzaclub used to "play" with the springs in dizzies, to change their curve, but there is nothing like a locked up dizzy, using it as a trigger only; & feeding that signal into a progammable ECU, where you can play to your hearts content, with advance & retard curves. Cheers Banjo
  16. Could it be the dizzy. The original has been replaced for an electronic version. You often hear that they are not graphed properly to suite the 3 and 4k engines but more for the 5 and 7k engines. It might explain why there is plenty low down but not much up the top. Just an idea Cheers G
  17. I complete concur with Altezzaclub's conclusion that the extra weight in the mass of the double row camshaft sproket & chain, would have little, or no tangible effect on the total rotational mass load on the engine. It's good to hear your fitment of the new chain & sprockets has instantly improved the idling & mid range performance of the engine. It's now simply a matter of finding a way to improve the top end, in that 4500 - 6000 rpm range. Over the years of "playing" with K Series engines, I've changeed a few timining chains & associated sprockets. I've never been able to get a complete kit here in Australia, with all the components you listed, as being in yours. I've always had to purchase them indivually. i did, in recent years replace sprockets & chain on a 5K, & was interested to note that the camshaft sprocket did in fact have three hole in the back sde of it, to fit to the location pin. I had never seen this on any other aftermarket double row sprockets I had purchased previously. I was very tempted to try the alternative position to get the valves to open a little earlier, & see what effect resulted. Hoewever if it didn't work out; & I had to revert to the standard pin position; I would have to go & remove everything again, and changing timing chains & sprockets is an absolute pain, with the engine in situ. There are other simpler ways of maybe improving the top end performance, if it is impeded by something else. The standard ignition coil is well known to drop off it's output at higher revs. If you already have a electronic distributor, it is possibly one with the "ignitor" built in. You could replace your coil with a low impedance "sports type" coil, which will improve the top end performance noticably. You may however find that the electronic dissy you already have; has an ignitor that may struggle to switch the higher primary current of a performance coil. A simple way around that, is to use the existing ignitor in your electronic dissy, switch an external heavy duty ignitor, that will power the sports coil. If that works, & I'm putting myself out there, & saying it will; then you might even be interested in fitting a programable ignition system, which will not only be able to drive the sport ignition coil, but would allow you to map an ignition advance/retard curve perfectly, to give you the best perfomance possible with the engine, as it is. I did that to a 4K engine in my daily runabout years ago, & it works perfectly; & I've never touched it since, as it is totally maintenance free. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/?tab=comments#comment-712657 Cheers Banjo
  18. "Just curious will the weight difference and rotational mass effect at higher rev range." Easy enough to check- Add up the weights of the crankshaft, pistons & conrods, the flywheel, the clutch, the gear shafts & gears, the driveshaft, the c/w & pinion in the diff, the axles and the rear wheels. Say about 100kg, and the timing chain weight difference is 1kg, then you've added 1% extra weight to the rotating mass & will lose 1% performance... I'd say the valve timing has changed, especially the comment about it gaining low rpm performance and losing high rpm. You could do a Datsun and drill three new holes in your new cam sprocket, all at slightly varying degrees off your zero mark. I think Datto 1600s had two marks and we used to put in two more so we could adjust cam timing at 4 then 8 then 12deg and one tooth was 16deg. Otherwise, just enjoy the smoothness low down! Get a high-lift cam cut to 270-275deg and concentrate on the torque under 5000rpm.
  19. Those civic radiators should be plenty of cooling capacity for the 4age. All the civic guys use them with their turbo B and K engines. I always wanted to put a small radiator like you have there and then an inter cooler on the other side. Side by side coolers. I reckon that would be neat packaging. What degree thermostat have you got in it? and does your fan temperature switch have a switching temperature stamped on it? You could always put in a lower temperature switch on your fan, if its currently 95deg, something like a 90deg might be better. This link here suggests that the oem fan switch temperature is "90 - 85 deg". A lower temp will mean the fan turns off and on more often when sitting in traffic, but it would keep your temp lower and more consistent https://www.ebay.com/itm/111952283977 You are more likely to get consistent temperatures with a clutch fan on the front of the engine, but theres nothing wrong with an electric fan just you will get these temperature gradients as the fan comes on/off. Arguably as long as you dont go over 100deg you are fine though.
  20. Hi Banjo Ans to no.1= Yes, the camshaft pin and the Camshaft sprocket installed correctly but with a bit of effort to fit in, I was affraid at first when installing the sprocket because it won't fit in easily instead of the old single row one, after compare both of them and measurement found out both same size, so I use a rubber mallet slightly tap to fit in. After done install and correct the timing mark then turn the crank by hand 2 to 3 turn and set it to cylinder 1 compression stroke, recheck the timing and found all mark is align and done set valve clearance as spec. Ans to no.2= Yes, a Double row chain kit come with Camshaft/Crankshaft sprocket, Timing Chain, Chain Guide, Tensioner set, Gasket and Oil Seals. Ans to no.3= After install double row timing chain kit, the idle run smoother than before and stable, no more intermittent shaking at idle. About the ignition timing previously the timing was jumping at idle by using a timing light to adjust and approximately set it between 10 to 15 degree, after replace the dizzy from point type to electronic type problem still the same, But now i think i have slove the idling issue, compare to previous it indeed improve at pickup and midrange, but just higher rpm range from 4500 to 6000 not as quick as before with 2nd/3rd gear pull and felt heavy like just climbing up without power ( although it just have 40whp I assume). Currently not much modify, only installed 6AL msd, BPR5EGP spark plug gap to 1.2mm(MSD recommended to enlarge according to CR) to a stock 4k, done adjust ignition timing couple of time to increase every 2 degree advance timing up to 20 degree but found the optimal was 12 degree at idle, above 15 degree engine will hesitate while slight throttle, the vacuum advance was running fine, it will hold and move smoothly, dizzy was hooked to ported vacuum. Running a 4K stock carby. Just currious will the weight difference and rotational mass effect at higher rev range. Cheers
  21. I'm not questioning that you've noticed a difference, in the performance, but there could be a couple of reasons, which may not be related to the timing chain at all. 1. Did you ensure the little location pin between the back of the camshaft sproket & the front of the camshaft was reinstated, when you fitted the sproket to the camshaft ? The crankshaft sproket has a giant keyway, that locates crankshaft pulley & the timing chain sprocket. The camshaft sprocket does not have a key, but a pin, that it relys on totally to lock the camshaft & chain, in the correct position. There have been those on here, that have had this pin shear, with dramatic results. 2. Did you replace the tensioner at the same time, as I assume you had a kit with it in ? 3. It could be that with the sloppy old chain, & a tensioner not working well; that the timing was out enough to effect the performance slightly, as the cam shaft drives both valves & the distrubutor; & hence has a slight effect on the ignition timing. It could be that you have to adjust the ignition timing slightly, in both directions, in increments, & see whether it makes any difference. Have you got a timing light ? That could throw up the fault, as it will indicate, whether the automatic advance/retard mechanism is working OK. Have you got a standard points type distributor ? Maybe it is time to give that an overhaul ? Let's know what you find. Trust this assists. Cheers Banjo
  22. Greetings, KE70 with stock 4k and stock carby in it, done conversion timing chain kit from single row to double row due to chain guide and tensioner wear out, drive smooth but felt when push to higher rev it doesn't as quick as before, chain timing mark and sprocket all in spec according to repair manual, done adjust ignition timing now running 12 degree(sweet spot for my little K's), I was currious is it related to rotational mass due to weight different of single row and double row. Thanks
  23. I also love antique cars, where can I find such programs and events, it is shown inat tv pro apk modsuper
  24. It should be inside the alternator by then, the KE70s had internal regulators in 1983, the KE55 had the old external regs on 1981. Count the wires on the alty or just follow them.
  25. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcv5pyXVV1Y I don't think I've ever seen Scotty smile so much ! Enjoy. Cheers Banjo
  26. Defective Voltage Regulator output is 15.5 volts but I cannot locate the device in Toyota LiteAce 1998. Do I need to remove the entire dashboard to replace it?
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