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  3. Yep ! Always need that cooling water ! Was thinking about "plopping" it all in my neighbours "swimming pool", but She is a bit of a dragon, so I don't think that would end nicely. The electical generator has always been my preferred option. I guess I am still going to need a clutch & a straight through gearbox, to actually get it started, & up & away. Talking about starting; I'm actually experimenting at present. Lots of people complain, about no instant starting with ECUs, as it can take "up to two revolutions of the crankshaft, before the ECU "synchronises", & then fires a spark plug for the first time. Some ECUs apparently, start in waste spark, & then as soon as it fires, it switches back over to sequential ignition & injectors. I'm looking at a way of getting it to fire within 1/4 of a turn of the crankshaft, under the starter motor. Requires another sensor, but that's no big deal. Just drilling up a new trigger wheel/disk, to see if it is possible. Would love to get away from having that "missing tooth" requirement, on the primary crank trigger wheel. What system do you use on Josh's rally cars ? Cheers Banjo
  4. Well, rigging a load cell on the arm would be right up your alley, you just need water to provide the friction force and keep it cool. If you weren't in QLD I'd say hook it up to an electrical generator and run power to your hot water cylinder! Something to plan in the future...
  5. Last week
  6. Not quite to that point, as yet. Think you & I canvassed this idea some time back. Have looked at a few utube videos, for D.I.Y. at home; using water type engine dynos, which can be tricky. Simplest system seems to be to use a automatic transmission torque converter, from a car a bit bigger than our Rollas, & hang a bar off it rotationally, to which we can add or subtract weights, to produce a quanative load, in foot pounds or whatever ? Any suggestions grately received. Cheers Banjo
  7. any update on the project ?
  8. any luck on this man ? been looking the same thing ..
  9. @RAT_SECA do you have the wiring diagram for the long cluster ? I'm planning upgrade mine with the long cluster but I don't have the wiring diagram ... thanks
  10. Had a go this morning! I purchased a new ignition lead and spark plug leads. The points spark when the ignition is on when moved by a flathead, and so does the ignition lead coming from the coil when held near the chassis. Good news! I put it all back together, and pulled a spark plug out to check to see if it sparks. Still nothing. I cleaned the rotor up and it looks good, but the cap looks worse for wear. The "metal inlets" where the tip of the rotor passes by are fully corroded. I didn't notice it earlier. Ordered a new cap and It will be here on monday. I will test it next week!
  11. Dyno! You'll need a dyno to tune it to the best ignition timing curve and see how many more KW it gives! Even a simple water-driven setup...
  12. Tah Luca ! Yes it is a lot of fun. I'm not an expert on these things. Expert: Ex = A has Been Spurt = A Drip Under Pressure I'm learning just like everyone elso, but appreciate all the feedback & info that others put on the web & RC Forum, so feel obliged to list here, anything I discover, or gain an understanding of. They say a picture tells a thousand words, so that makes it more interesting. At the moment, I'm toying with the idea, of trying out a three sensor system, instead of two. If you go for a waste spark, & batch injector system, you can get away with a single crank sensor system, using a missing tooth trigger wheel. With crank + camshaft position sensor, you can do full sequential ignition & injector firing, but the crankshaft trigger wheel, must still have a missing tooth/teeth. With three (3) sensors, you can also do full sequential ignition & injectors, but you don't have to use a missing tooth crankshaft trigger wheel. The missing tooth/teeth wheels seem to cause a lot of issues, when sensors miss reading a tooth. Without a missing tooth, the RPM information is updated more often, & is more accurate. I already have a third sensor on the flywheel, which would very accurately provide the exact position of the crankshaft. You can achive the same, by looking for the next tooth, on the crankshaft trigger wheel, after the camshaft position pulse. However, the camshaft pulse timing can vary due to slop/wear/etc. in the timing chain & sprocket, & distributor/oil pump lelical gear. I'm not sure that a lot of aftermarket ECUs provide a decoder, to accomplish this. Need to do a bit more research. If anyone on here has "been there", or has info on this aspect, I'd love to here from you. Cheers Banjo
  13. wow! This is such an amazingly documented build Banjo! I'm excited to see this fire up and see the difference between standard and an EFI system!
  14. The circuit itself is quite simple. The Hall Effect device Proximity switches I used (NJK5002C), actually have an LED built into the case at the back, where the lead comes out. However, I wanted to have both LEDs in one location, where you could view them side by side. In practice, the Hall Sensors are located in the 'Camshaft Position" dizzy on the side of the engine; & the Crankshaft position trigger wheel, is down at the very bottom of the front of the engine; rendering it difficult to view both LEDs directly, at the same time. As the Hall Effect sensors are powered by 12Vdc, I wanted to ensure the signal sent to the ECU trigger inputs for cam & crank, were optically coupled; which helps reduce any hash on the 12 volt line, being transmitted to the ECU trigger inputs. The MOC5007 does this well, with a photo diode internally, which completely isolates the input from the output of the device. As well as that, the MOC5007, has an Schmitt differential hysteresis final stage; which again, helps produce a very clean output signal. The output is an open collector output, so that its output load can be tied to a supply other than 12 volts, if necessary. I have chosen to tie it to 5V, so that the signal can be directly fed to the ECU, which will have a 5 volt rail, in the case of the Speeduino ECU. The 10K ohm load resistors could possibly be omitted, as most ECU crank & cam inputs, have pull-up load resistors, either permanently in place, or optional, with a link or the like. The "Crankshaft output signal" from the MOC5007 is fed directly to the “clock input” of a CMOS 4060 counter IC (pin 11). The counter, has it's initial count set to zero, at power up, by a monostable pulse directed to the "reset input" (pin 12). The counter then starts counting from zero, & will produce a output at a count of 32, which is turned into a monostable pulse, to drive the BC547 transistor & “crank pulse” LED. There is enough drive, to do away with transistor, if the LED is needed to be powered by the 5 volt DC supply. So a simple circuit that works well, & although not totally required, for ECU operation, will make trouble shooting & understanding the operation of the crank & cam shaft inputs very clear. Note: Just a word of warning. The NJK5002C Hall Effect sensors have an unusual colour coding for the three wires coming out of them. Brown: +ve supply voltage 6-36V DC Black: Open Collector switched output Blue: -ve supply connection
  15. One of the problems with trigger wheels, is the need for specialised equipment, to check that the multiple critical timing signals, from the crank & camshaft position sensors, are working properly. There was something to be said for the simplicity of the “Kettering System”; we are used to; where if your engine did not fire, you quickly removed the dizzy cap, & could quickly decide what was the culprit; sometimes just visually, or with a simple screwdrive & trouble light. With the trigger wheel in particular, this becomes even more critical, once you understand how the ECU interprets the signals coming from the VR or Hall Effect Sensor. eg: If the air gap of the sensor from the trigger wheel teeth, was a little wide on just one or two teeth, such that a signal was not produced from those particular teeth; then those missing pulses, to the ECU; could well appear as if they were the intentional missing teeth on the trigger wheel, & throw the complete timing out. Take the case of say a destroyed/missing magnet, due to being dislodged by the centrifugal forces on it. Same result; the timing gets thrown out completely. I decided that I would build a simple opto-coupler & LED visual system, that allowed very simple & quick, verification, that the signals from both crank & cam sensors were working correctly, while cranking the engine. The results were a simple small “black box”, housing the electronics, with two (2) visible LEDs, that was mounted near the front of the engine. Placed there, it could be viewed, if for instance, you were turning over the engine by hand, very slowly; to check whether every tooth, or magnet, in the trigger wheel, was creating a pulse. I posted a picture of this little box, earlier in this thread. However, there was an issue. When the engine was being cranked, with 35 magnets (36 – 1) producing 35 pulses every revolution, visually; you cannot see the clear make & break of each trigger wheel transition, & the LED looks like a blur, for the crankshaft LED pulses. So I decided that if I built a counter, that counted the individual teeth/magnet signals, & only produced a LED pulse once the count was reached; say once per rev; it would clearly indicate that all was good. I would still retain the LED that indicated every tooth or magnet transition, so that you could turn the crankshaft over with a ratchet & socket, & see every individual tooth pulse, if needed. The result was even better than I envisaged. The counter I used had an output for a count of 32, which was close enough to one revolution of the trigger wheel/disk. I could have made it count exactly to 35, or 36; but that would have required an extra IC chip, & the result would not be noticeable. Cranking the engine with the spark plugs removed; which is the fastest cranking speed possible, gave a clear visual indication of the cam, crankshaft pulses, plus a clear LED pulse output for approximately every revolution of the crankshaft. The resulting box is shown below. I’ll drawn the circuit up, & post it on here, with a description of its operation; in case there is someone on here that wants to replicate it. Cheers Banjo
  16. Earlier
  17. Has anyone got wiring diagram for ke 20
  18. I read a couple of stories on the web, regarding some people poorly fitting trigger wheels to engines, where the results have been catastrophic. It led me to research the use of a harmonic balancers, in general, & on K series engines. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_damper Torsional twisting, flexing, & vibration are typically more common in long crankshafts, such as are found in straight six & eight cylinder engines. It occurred to me, that our little K series engine did not fall into that category, so why did Toyota feel the need to fit a harmonic balancer. The K series engine, also has a main bearing on the crankshaft between each & every cylinder, so should theoretically, be pretty safe. Bearing in mind that 1200cc K Series engines, were successfully used in midget dirt track racing cars in previous decades, at rev limits at least twice what they were designed, would I have thought; proven them almost unbreakable. In fact, I believed the only K Series engine that was fitted with a harmonic balancer, was the 5K; however, I have since discovered that there were some 4K engines that came out with harmonic balancers fitted, & I presume the 7K had them also. Even the very simple & small crankshaft pulley fitted on the 3K engine, were balanced at the factory, as the few I have on the shelf here, all have 1, 2, or 3 balancing drillings on the rear of the pulley. The crankshaft pulleys on the 3K & 4K, were also quite small in diameter, compared to the much larger diameter, fitted to the 5K. When fitting a trigger wheel, to the crankshaft pully, the bigger the diameter, & the more trigger teeth; & the faster the ECU can respond to crankshaft rotational speed changes. The problem appears to be, that the trigger wheels themselves are not balanced, & in many cases, the reason the trigger wheel, failed; was because it was attached; (even welded), to the outer harmonic balancer pulley itself. It was for this exact reason, that I made my trigger wheel 150mm in diameter, which is only a little bigger in diameter, than the 5K pulley outer diameter. That also accommodated a 36-1 configuration, & still left sufficient distance between the rare earth magnets, to obtain very clear switching transitions, which I have checked on my oscilloscope. It is also, one of the reasons, why I made my trigger when out of aluminium, rather than steel. I have a similar sized steel trigger wheel, which I bought on line, & it weighs 550gm (over half a kilo). By comparison, the aluminium trigger wheel, also 6mm thick, like the steel one; weighs just 200 gm. The other issue that makes the steel trigger wheel an issue, is that the majority of trigger wheels have either one or two missing teeth, at one position. The lack of two teeth; naturally create an imbalance, but most trigger wheel manufacturers, simply drill a hole in the trigger wheel, close to the outside; exactly opposite the missing tooth/teeth, to compensate. Because my aluminium trigger disk, does not use teeth at all, the only imbalance would be one 4mm x 5mm rare earth magnet, whose weight is tiny. I can easily drill, at 180 deg., to compensate, for the missing magnet, or just not drill out one hole. I also took care, in ensuring that the trigger wheel/disk, was only attached physically, to the crankshaft pulley “centre piece"; & spaced off the centre piece, so it cleared the pulley grove section of the harmonic balancer. The real beauty of using aluminium wheel, & the tiny rare earth magnets, is that you aren’t confined to using the traditional VR (variable reluctance) sensors, whose output signal needs conditioning; before it can be used reliably, by the ECU. The only disadvantage I can envisage using magnets; is that they may attract, iron filings, to attach to the disk. Might be an issue, if you plan on driving your Rolla around the Pilbara area of W.A., but should not be an issue on sealed roads. The worst case scenario, would probably require a little fixed brush in place to keep the face of the trigger wheel free of debris. Cheers Banjo
  19. chasing a ke70 steering column, needed to do yaris epc conversion because I'm old and grumpy and want mod cons for my old shitbox all of a sudden. epc photo of ke70 column and a photo of yaris epc column for reasons 🤷🏻‍♂️
  20. Hi All, I need to replace the indicator stalk on my KE20 1973. Just wanting to know if there's a difference between the earlier model KE20s and later model KE20s. I have found a one from a 1971. Thanks
  21. Thanks Altezza! I will have a go this week! Hopefully I will be able to upload that video of the car running soon!
  22. That's good, major problem sorted! Turn the ignition on and take off the dizzy cap. Stick a flatblade screwdriver across the points and open & shut them. You should see a good fat spark. If you do, stick the lead from the coil near an earth and see if the spark jumps from the coil lead to the car body. Say 3mm gap.. If you don't see a points spark, the problem is prior to them. No ignition current or the points are shorting out etc. Have the points open and check for 12V with a multimeter or test light. No spark or if the spark is weak, it could also be a condenser problem So, no points spark, chase the 12V supply, chase the points earthing when they shouldn't, change the condenser. Points spark but no coil spark, maybe the coil is a dud or there's a break/short in a wire. Measure the resistance of the coil circuits. Yes, electronic ignition is better, but beware the advance curve in the usual electronic dizzies sold is a dog, the car will be slower unless you change the springs under the plate.
  23. Update! Gave my battery a good overnight charge, and finished up a few things on the Rolla before cranking it today! It gets oil pressure! Super quick too! Fuel was getting pumped through by the pump, but there is no spark! Replaced the leads (couldn't find a cap near me in stock) no change! My suspicion is the ignition coil has given up the ghost. Whats the best way to diagnose the spark system? Side note, is it worth it to move to an electronic distributor system?
  24. Then you should know you need a front mount like what's in the vid above. 12a's and rx4/5 13b's only have front mounts. Mazda moved to side mounting the motors from s4 rx7 onwards.
  25. I've only got the wiring for a KE70, but I expect they are similar. The motor is where the speed is controlled, the +1 and +2, so you need to check if you have a blue/orange (L/O) & blue/black (LB) taking power to the motor when its all turned on. Your colours might be different. The S pole is the self-park & flash power for the washers, so you get the one wipe then park. If you don't get power from the LB then you know the problem is in the switch. Stick a temporary power wire into the LB and see if it speeds up, then you know if the motor is good (or not). Take the wiper arms off if you haven't already and oil the many joints and pivots...
  26. Received an email from T3 this morning, including a gallery of pics they took at the above event. For those of you, who love looking at restored classic Toyotas; where attention to detail, & money has no limits, you will enjoy scrolling through these pics on the T3 FaceBook site. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.5630226273683848&type=3 Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo
  27. Hi guys. Does the ke20 have 2 wiper speeds? When I pull the wiper button it has 2 clicks but both are the same slow speed. When I got the car The second click out stopped the wipers all together but that is fixed as I found there was a loose wire. I was expecting the wipers to be faster on the second click. Does this mean the wiper motor is busted?
  28. This is the guy you need to talk to! https://www.facebook.com/KeConversions
  29. Thanks Banjo! Yes its a great feeling! Was worried some of the oil lines in the block were corroded away somehow. Thank goodness I am incorrect. I am currently located in Noosa Heads QLD!
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