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  1. Past hour
  2. Head bolt troubles

    Yeah the oil worked wonders, Made it quite easy to get out
  3. Today
  4. Ke70Daves New Euro Toy

    Well more progress was made today. I decided to join a wire to every pin including all spares to make it easier to add stuff in the future. Tested the fuel pump output and it seems to work. All that is left is to add in the CAS wiring. I think ill go to jaycar and buy some microphone cable for the cas. Seems to be the go. The grey casing of the db37 is a reaaaally tight squeeze. Im away for work this week so i might use my down time to design somethhng better and then 3d print it next weekend. Then its just a matter of putting my wideband back in and wiring in the power and ground on the loom. And adding a bit morw loom tube where required. But that might have to wait till next weekend.
  5. 4k turbo kit

    What work does it need mate??
  6. Head bolt troubles

    Good One ! Did the threads indicate whether any of the penetration oil got through, or was it complete rusted on ? Cheers Banjo
  7. Head bolt troubles

    Hey Banjo, and everyone. I finally got it out. It was my turn at welding so don't mind the horrendous welds, but I was strong enough to crack it.
  8. WANTED TO BUY: KE20

    Have a completed resto-mod 1974 te21 two door, color Lexus Tiger Eye Mica (original red).
  9. Chestikoph Sr20Det Ke55 Coupe

    I have had to butcher up the dash in order to fit back in around the cage, the Carlos bars have made it really hard to get it back in. It has to wedge between that and the A pillar bar for to fit in, gonna be a nightmare to fit it in without scratching the cage up once it's painted, oh well it's a race car anyway!!
  10. Oil pump failure

    That's exactly what I've always believed the little tear drop valve in the thermostat plate was designed to perform. Very well described, & a thoughtful explanation ! I pulled out a couple of old thermostats in a box on my shelf, from engines I have scavenged on. Here is an old brass one, where you can see the rivet shaped tag hanging through a hole in the valve plate. I don't really understand what the tag thing hanging there does, other than to wiggle around & keep the hole free of debri & build up. It can only function, or do anything, when the coolant is below operating temperature, as normally the valve would be opened either partially or fully. I have always assumed it was to bleed away air bubbles at the top of the head during filling, or allow the water coolant pressures either side of the thermostat to equalise, whist the thermostat is closed. There was another old thermostat in my box, that didn't have the tear drop thing in the hole in the valve plate, at all. As you can see, some enterprising person, has created there own bypass holes around the edge. If I have completely drained my cooling system, & refilled, I always let the car idle for 20 minutes with the radiator cap off, until any air is out of the system, then put the cap on, as the coolant starts to flow over the top of the cap neck. If you want to be really pandantic, you can run the front wheels up on some ramps, to ensure the radiator cap & front of the engine are at their highest. The biggest problem I have seen on Rollas, is leaks or cracks in the rubber or plastic pipe, between the top of the radiator, & the coolant over flow bottle. What happens then, is that the excess expanded coolant is forced into the overflow bottle OK, but when the engine cools overnight, the coolant in the overflow bottle does not all get sucked back into the radiator, as there are air leaks in the hose or connections between radiator & overflow bottle. If you look in your overflow bottle when the engine is cold, & find the coolant level higher than normal, then that is probably the cause. Thanks for the suggestions regarding suitable thermofans. I agree that the ideal situation, is to use the thermostat, to do it's job, of getting the engine temperature up to design levels, as quickly as possible, & set the thermofan switch a bit higher than the thermostat point, below which it starts to close. eg: If thermostat starting opening & closing temps are 80 & 90 deg C, then the thermofan switch should be set 5-8 deg C higher, at something like 95 deg C. Once I get it set up, a couple of weeks with the multi-channel temperature data logger probes at various points, should allow me to fine tune it perfectly. I'll put the results up here, for anyone who has an interest in this subject. Cheers Banjo
  11. Hard starting and pinging

    Alright, so i took it for a spin up the road and it felt a lil gutless than usual. Also backfires freakin loud on decel *cryinglaughingface* almost gave an old man a heart attack on his lovely Sunday stroll!
  12. Hard starting and pinging

    Did all of what you guys said above. Cranked over but didn't fire up. Scratched my head a bit and had a think lol Decided to reset the mixture screw back to default and wind up the idle speed... AWAY SHE WENT! NO PING/TAP!!!
  13. Yesterday
  14. Oil pump failure

    Sorry to drag back on topic but Ive heard a wierd bubbling noise from k motor that was overfull of oil and having the crank whip the oil into foam.
  15. Oil pump failure

    Just a couple things I can add to. My understanding about the little hole in the thermostat ring (usually with the little metal tang loosely fitting in it, is to allow air to pass beyond the thermostat in the line before the thermostat opens. It speeds up bleeding, and is the reason why if you very slowly fill a cooling system without starting the car, the coolant will still ever so slowly find its way past the thermostat and bubble thought at irregular occasional intervals. Since its really there for bubbles, then it should be rotated to the top of the housing, so the bubbles that fill the upper part of the line can pass and not be trapped 100 percent until the thermostat opens. Secondly, a very experienced mechanic stressed to me once that its important not to rev a car (or drive it) without the cooling system bled fully, I think his concern was adding extra heat at specific locations around the cylinder head that can destroy the head gasket seal without even cooling in that area. So rebuilder I disagree with your premature revving of the motor to speed up the thermostat opening on the bleed, that's just impatient I think. A funnel that screws to the radiator cap and seals would be a great idea, not one thats dangling a metre above that doesn't seal on the rad inlet, that would effectively enlist gravity to push the coolant in and the air out, in fact I've seen a lot of people that use this over the years. On my engine, I prefer the thermostat to stay open once warmed up so I'm not pumping coolant in a small bypass and its not an inhibition of the motors output, so I run my fan at higher temps than some, but this was really based off of reading Toyota data for the 2azfe fan controller that said that the fan turns on at a temp above 90 degrees, so I stopped being a worry wart and made it so the fan turns on at 94 centigrade and off at 87. I never want the thermostat to close once open. Motor seems to appreciate it. This is in stark contrast to the cooling system I ran on the 20v engines with the thermostat in the wrong spot and the lack of an external by pass that meant the thrmostat opened and closed all the time and that you could see temps from 70 to 90 degrees at any given moment. It worked but its probably not ideal. Thirdly I always test a thermostat in the pot as described, but dont just see how it opens, tip small amounts of cool water in and see how it closes as well after it pops full open and this will give you a good indication and understanding of the real merit of the constantly variable thermostat system. I noticed that usually they open a degree or two above the rated temp, but they begin to close a degree or two below the rated temp, so you see it takes a second or two for the thermostat to absorb the heat of the currently available coolant and react. As such you dont really want a massively over rated radiator, that's a narrow minded fix, you really want everything working as it should be. The thermostat to not have to work all the time, the radiator to dump the right amount of heat dependent on the work its doing and for this to vary on the same plane as the extra heat made to overcome the drag of the vehicle and the ambient conditions, tempered against the extra airflow at a given speed. Think about all the work the oems do to provide the right amount of cooling for different situations, right down to the fans working independently and coming on at different temps or if more drag is applied to the motor ie when the ac and accessories come on. If they care about clutching on and off with the alternators these days to preserve economy and performance, then there must be something to it. For example you dont want your fans blasting at idle when the car is making minimal heat. They should just come on occasionally and stay off for longer intervals being temp controlled. SO with this in mind... SO that brings me to the fans, yes mechanical clutch fans and worse still ficed blade non clutch fans are awful for performance. Have a watch of the engine masters series where they test all the fans, its a real shock to be honest. Electric fans are the way to go, there is no way around it. I have sworn to bin every clutch fan my hands meet from this day forth having watched that. Banjo your data is incredible. Well done.
  16. Oil pump failure

    I would look at any fwd car at tge wreckers and just see what fits. I would ve trying to get one that is as low profile as possible. The 80s fwd fans were all huge! The other thung to consider is i would get the biggest single fan that fits. Mainly cause the smaller the fan the noisier it will be....
  17. Oil pump failure

    Hi Keith, So not wanting to "reinvent the wheel", what aftermarket, or other vehicle's thermofans, are suitable for bolting onto the back of a standard KE3X - KE5X radiator, with a stroud ? I don't really mind whether it is one big one, or two smaller ones side by side. Had a quick look on here, & generally Googling the net, but couldn't find any images of a conversion on a Rolla. Once you take the plastic fan blades off the water pump pulley, there is a heap of room, between the back of the radiator core & the front of the engine. Alternatively, it will be off to the wreckers, with a tape measure, to see what fits the best. Any suggestions, greatly appreciated. Cheers Banjo P.S. Just after posting this, I came across your thread, using a Mazda 121 thermofan. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68673-how-to-fit-an-electric-fan/ Would you still recommend that one ? As I've already got a solid metal stroud that bolts onto the radiator frame, I was thinking of just getting an electric fan with same diameter as the stroud opening round hole, & adapt the mountings to the metal stroud, which should be strong enough. What do you think ?
  18. Ke70Daves New Euro Toy

    Right well today was a fun day. Made me this! Megasquirt 2 on a diydave custom loom. For those of you following along this time last year i tried and failed with the haltech e8. Turned out the haltech was faulty and i gave up. Picked up this MS from my mate who ive known for yrs. This exact MS is the one i heloed tune prolly 10yrs ago now. It was sitting around amd i decided it needed a new home. I originally anticipted making an adaptor loom fpr the stock loom but it turns out this engine actually runs batch fire injection! Batch! So rather than try and and mod it i made my own loom with a semisequential setup. As of this arvo the tps , coolant temp, intake temp and all the injectors are done and have been bench tested using the inbuilt testing in the MS. Im going to make a second loom that will include the ignition wires, CAS and wide band. I dunno when ill get actually get it installed but there is some progress happening:D
  19. Haz's Ke15 Sprinter

    Thanks mate, We went with 2pack in the end. Yes the prep seemed as though it would never end.. though it finally has. I'm very impatient to put it back together right now but it needs the 1500 grit treatment and polish first.. I'm certainly hoping to be rolling soon! Itching to get my new wheels on to see how they look with the paint!
  20. 7A powered AE82

    Yeah, I was. I have a wrecked ae101 and getting its wiring setup for transplant. I'm going to try and keep the cluster as much as the old ae82 as possible, speedo, tacho,will have to be swapped, the fuel tank/sender could remain the same, I think just have to go external pump. the engine mount brackets have to be changed off the old 4A motor to fit on the 7A. Unless I do major body work to get the AE101's mounts to fit in. since the 101 has a 2 piece cross-member that holds the sway-bar and the 82 has a basically bar on 4 body mounts. There is no way it would fit without cutting parts and welding others. I will be swapping the brakes over from the 101 to the 82.
  21. Chestikoph Sr20Det Ke55 Coupe

    Some more welding today = both seats in
  22. Haz's Ke15 Sprinter

    Looks fantastic! Did you go 2pack or Acrylic paint? The paint prep was what seemed to take the longest on my rebuild. After that it should come together quite quickly. You will be rolling in no time!
  23. Last week
  24. New member from SE Florida

    Yes, from the inablilty of the Japanese to pronounce the 'L' sound.. comes out as a soft 'R'.
  25. Oil pump failure

    Nice work Banjo. I'm sure the radiator cools quite well without a fan running, the hot metal will still radiate and conduct heat into the air. Obviously better with a fan pulling fresh cool air through. I have a 90deg thermoswitch on the fan and I think its only ever come on once. If your cooling system can handle the little heat from an idling engine then the fan isn't needed as the ram effect moves more air through than the fan from about 25kph up. its always roadworks in the middle of a 100kph drive that heats a motor up. I've been thinking of a turbo timer to run the fan for the few minutes after I turn the motor off, I've seen the heat sink effect raise the temp in the garage at home.
  26. Haz's Ke15 Sprinter

    Important news everyone! The Sprinter is now painted! It was sprayed on Thursday afternoon, 18/01/2018. Five days before my eighteenth birthday! (One excellent present if you ask me) Dad did a fantastic job on the gun, the paintjob is absolutely gorgeous! There are a few imperfections that will be corrected with a light rub and a good polish. I'm off to go get some 1500 and polishing compound this morning.. though we still need to wait a while before we can do anything too serious. For now, I'm happy just to sit in awe of it's beauty. The paint went on well, and didn't reveal any body imperfections we weren't already aware of. Absolutely stoked with the outcome. I did mean to mention in the last post too, I found a nice set of wheels and bought them. They are gold meshies-style. 13x6 all round, so i can use my tyres from my ford wheels. They were 100 bucks, but at the other end of my state. Luckily, I have a friend who lives in Burnie that i met by pure coincidence when we both saw each other riding 1988 Honda MC19's. That week of ridingwas probably one the best I've ever had. Regardless, I sent him some cash and a bit extra for his time. They're at his house for now, until either he or I make the journey. That's all for now. I'm stoked with how it turned out... keen for the mechanical side of things to come in shortly..
  27. Heater hose

    I think Mackay Hoses makes the correct ones.
  28. Head bolt troubles

    Hey there Banjo, unfortunately I haven't had time to get the bolt out as of yet, but. I think i'm going to heat the bottom of the block a little then weld a nut or 2 on the top and hopefully be able to crack it that way
  29. Head bolt troubles

    Hi James, Interested to know whether you were able to get that "pesky" broken front head bolt out, & how you did it. Cheers Banjo
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