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  2. I found another one in my garage, & had a quick look. I stand corrected. It does not have a phosphor bronze pivot sleeve bearing in it. It has two (2) tapered nylon bushes, one at each end. New bushes are about $ 30 a pair on ebay. I did however confirm, that the idler arm bracket, fits all models from KE-30, through to KE-55. Unfortunately, the idler arm ball joint is not replaceable, & if the ball joint has failed, you need to replace the complete pitman arm, which incorporates the ball joint. Both items; complete idler arm assembly, & the pitman arm, are available on ebay. Cheapest I saw the complete idler arm assembly was about $ 60.00. The pitman arm, including ball joint, was about $ 40 - $ 52, so on that basis, it would be wise just to pay the extra dollars, & obtain the full new assembly, & get everything. Cheers Banjo
  3. Lovely story about the very early (60-70 years ago) EV conversions, on the ABC website, yesterday. Good read ! https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2023-02-04/worlds-first-electric-porsche-forgotten-history-evs-melbourne/101891670 However, it was a side story about a guy in Chinchilla, in Qld., that caught my eye. He converted a Dato 1200 ute. I worked for a company that had one of those once, & the ute cabin was hard to squeeze into. We can't let the Dato communitity, be the first ! Sure there must be someone out there, considering, doing an "EV", on their Rolla. https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2021-10-18/converting-classic-cars-to-electric-vehicles/100533104 Cheers Banjo
  4. Amazing what a difference even just body-coloured door handles can make. Also replaced the front-left (passenger side) window belt moulding which was starting to peel quite bad. Body-coloured rub strips are sitting here waiting to go on as soon as I can get a heat gun/hair-dryer and some goo-gone for the old weatherstripping adhesive. And once again the wagon steals the good bits intended for the 102...swapped over the 101/111 Superstrut twin-piston brake conversion, figured I might as well make use of the pads and stop the seals drying out whilst the 102 stays off the road.
  5. I had a look in my heap of spares, & I do have an idler arm pivot assembly, out of a KE55. I can't imagine, Toyota changed that much throughout the KE30-35-55 series. I was going to compare it, with my KE30 2 door coupe one today, but it was raining, so couldn't put my KE30 up on the ramps, to take a look. If it's fine tomorrow, I'll take a look. This one is missing the phosphor bronze bush in the middle. I'll take a look through my heap of bits tomorrow, & see if it is there somewhere; or maybe I've used it previously, but can't recall.
  6. Pretty rare model, I would expect ? Excuse my ignorance, but I didn't even know Toyota produced a KE70 2 door wagon. I wouldn't expect, their were a lot of them produced. In all my years looking at olde rollas; I don't think, I've ever come across one like that, previously.
  7. That was 7years ago.. Today, try offering $15k-$20k.... There is an immaculate original wagon in South Australia for $18K. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/grange/cars-vans-utes/1982-toyota-ke-70-corolla-panelvan/1260220886
  8. Yeah, I wouldn't be happy about the amount of distance the rubber has to swivel if it was locked by the crush tube, it seems a long way. The 5 arms in the rear suspension of a KE70 have the same bushes, and in the front LCAs, its why you never do them up tight until they are at ride height. I think they used them as they don't wear like the tapered bushes, they hold steady until the rubber fractures and then they are a throwaway. Because they are vulcanised into the metal bush the tolerances are smaller & more accurate.
  9. Short and sweet I'm trying to track down an idler arm for a 77 KE30 4DR. I have gone to numerous shops and ebay with no success any help would greatly be appreciated.
  10. Thanks for the feed back guys, that was very helpful and much appreciated. That self centred steering makes sense, and explains why the rubber is so torn around the ends. I was having banjos exact problem of things weren't lining up when I put them back on the car. So I have backed the nut off and I'll tighten it once it's all aligned. But I will see about what can be done with regards to getting a tapered bush arrangement
  11. Anyone have one of these stock exhaust mounts for an AE86/KE70/AE71/T18/MX60 or Tercel. One is fitted to the floor halfway between the front muffler and the diff housing, and another above the diff. It’s different to the one under the rear muffler. Needs posting to Melbourne, but is small and lightweight struggling to add a photo but will try later
  12. Thanks mate, I had one years ago with a 18rg in it but if I can’t find one was thinking of something more Modorn, I have some some in the us with a beams but don’t know what would be need to be done to fit it in
  13. I have never come across a "crushed" bush on an idler, on any of my Rollas. All the ones I've seen have two tapered half bushes. The only reason I could imagine, they placed a crushed idler bush, would be, that it assisted "self centering" of the steering. That would require, I presume; that the nut be tightened up, on the crush tube, with the steering in the straight ahead alignment. It might be easier to just get a whole new idler arm assembly, with the two tapered, removable & replaceable bushes, & dice the crush tubed version altogether. Cheers Banjo
  14. The one pictured doesn't move on the shaft, it relies on the rubber distorting to turn, so gets done up tight on the crush tube. Others have two tapered bushes that do swivel on the shaft and have a castellated nut, although I can't swear to Toyota following the other Japanese manufacturers in the 1970s. I think I've seen swivelling bushes on Celicas.
  15. Earlier
  16. Just for context, I attached two photos of the idler arm to bracket interface. You can see the teeth on the crush tube and the indexing notches that are in both the bracket and end washer. Both the old original idler arm and the new 555 idler arm have the same setup. But I'm also not sure how I can replace the bushes. They are just a solid rubber peice. The ke30 idler is different in that it has some bushes that sit between the rubber and the crush tube I believe.
  17. Thanks banjo, I'll back the nut off for now. But without a castlated nut I hope it won't come loose
  18. Hi Geoff, If your KE26 idler arm pivot, is the same as those in the KE30 series, I have never come across them "locking up". The bushes in these take a beating, & I replaced them every 4-5 years. I guess, that if the nut on the top of the pivot, was too tight, it might not turn easily & could appear "locked". By all means, back the nut off, until it turns, but don't leave it loose. Cheers Banjo
  19. So the trigger wheel/disc, with magnets, & it’s decoder, is now running the engine, by firing four (4) off COPs sequentially; albeit, at a fixed advance of 10-12 degrees BTDC. (as per pics in the previous post) Next step to build an advance / retard controller. I built my ignition controller, with a “mapped” advance retard curve, by revisiting a tried & proven programmable ignition system, designed by Silicon Chip magazine, way back in March 2007. I say proven; as I have been using it in my KE30 2 door coupe, on a 4K-U engine, for years; with an Accuspark 3K dizzy Hall Sensor setup; & never had to touch it since, after I initially getting the advance mapping correct. I looked on the Silicon Chip website on-line store, & they still had the programmed PIC micro-processor for this project. I have built it up, in recent days, & tested it on the bench, & it appears to work well. The programmable ignition controller, can accommodate 2 off 11 x 11 advance/retard maps, (for duel fuel applications) or a single 15 x 15 map, which is what I’ve used There is no software, that communicates with this system, so a little hand controller, with an LCD display & some push buttons, is used to create the map. It’s a bit laborious, but works well. I used Excel to create the map. The MAP is a "little flat", to start with, but can be changed, during load testing, to optimise the advance setting, for various RPM & load ranges. I also limited the maximum RPM range, as my test trigger disc, & speed controlled electric motor on my bench, is not balanced; & the motor is only capable of 3500 RPM maximum. Once I get it on the engine & do some fine tuning, of the advance/retard map, I will be setting the advance as high as practically possible, without introducing “knock”, which could “spoil the party”. Not wanting to do that, I’ve yesterday built a Knock sensor kit; again put out by Silicon Chip in June 2007. (Silicon Chip still had the PCB in stock) Knock is caused by detonation, or too much advance; or high engine temps; or lower fuel octane rating, than normally being used; & results in mechanical piston rattle within the cylinder, around TDC. Modern cars all have a knock sensor, on the engine, that detects this piston rattle, & tells the ECU to back off the advance a bit. Apparently, all “knocking” in engines, creates “noise/knocks” in a frequency band width of between 4.5kHz & 6.5 kHz. The knock sensor itself, is basically a tiny microphone, listening to your engine. They typically use a piezo-electric sensor, which is attached to the engine block or head. The “knock or detonation” sensor controller, is basically a “notch” filter that only looks at frequencies between 4.8 – 6.4 kHz. When detonation, or knock is detected; a signal is sent to the ignition controller. As knock only occurs around TDC, the controller only looks at the knock sensor output, around TDC & for several milliseconds after firing has taken place. That avoids any other engine noise, that gets picked up by the “knock sensor”. The controller then automatically reduces the advance, between 0.5 to 6.0 degrees of advance, depending on the severity of the knock. I could nip down to a wreckers, & pick up a knock sensor, but I notice they are not that expensive on ebay, ranging from around $ 20 upto about $ 80.00. I prefer the screw-in type, rather than a bracket on the engine; as the sensor, then becomes part & parcel of the engine, & integral, to the block or head. Next question is where to mount it. My research indicates, that the preferred position is on the head some where. Has anyone out there ever fitted a knock sensor to their K Series engine, & if so, where did you attach it ? My personal preference, would be to fit it, high on the engine block, on the opposite side of the engine, to the exhaust header. I found a couple of threaded holes, behind the mechanical fuel pump, that appear to be roughly between cylinders 1 & 2. A bit tight in there, as the mechanical fuel pump obstructs; but I’m using an electric pump, & that area, has a blanking plate. Would welcome any suggestions. Cheers Banjo
  20. Hey everyone, I took the old idler arm out of my ke26, but one of the captive nuts stripped off the bracket as it was sized good and proper. So I bought a new 555 idler arm, but the new arm doesn't seem to turn. I have taken the idler arm apart, the tube in the middle has notches that seem to be used to index onto the bracket and the end washer. The rubber bushing doesn't look to rotate, so I'm wondering how this arm was designed to work? Should I just released the tension on the nut holding the idler arm to the bracket until it turns freely?
  21. Ae82 bonnet Ae82 back locking panel Ae82 front bumper Ae82 grill Ae82 2 headlights Based in Ireland
  22. I did drag a 3SGE out at the wreckers (A Celica fwd one) for a young guy in Walcha to put in his Corona. He had it in but the Webers were not working in it last time I saw it, I listed what to do but I don't know if he ever got it running. The 3S is a very tall motor, you'd want to be sure before you started the job. Sorry I can't be any more help. Ah- make sure the gearbox fits too, I'm sure the J160 is too wide at the bell housing. I expect you'll need a W box.
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