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  1. Yesterday
  2. Put a 7afe in its place. 1.8L > 1.6L. Should be a bolt in afair. and then put a turbo on it like they did for that ae112 sportivo rare one. All things considered the 7afe was a bit of a hoot to drive in an old ae112 i had. Cant imagine too many people made performance parts for the 7afe so its all going to be a custom job.
  3. You'll find that question asked a few times in the forums. Sadly the answer is that seeing the 4AGE was available, no-one bothered to do much for the poor old 4AFE. How much do you want to spend? New air filter system? Quad throttle bodies? Extractors and larger free-flow exhaust? I don't know who will grind the cams for them, but there's that to do. Really you could look at pulling the head off and porting it, like any petrol motor. I'd say, first find out what holds the motor back. Somewhere must be someone who has found the weak link & made it better.
  4. 1977 Te31 I would like to upgrade my suspension what are my options?
  5. Anyone know where I can buy performance parts for my 4afe??
  6. Last week
  7. Aluminium is the only household product worth recycling, it takes a lot of electricity to turn bauxite into metal so once you have it you make sure it stays as a metal. Copper would be the next, lead, and the contents of the catalytic converters. Steel is OK in bulk, and then the rest of the cardboard, plastics etc only exist because of public money subsidies. The first part of the Save the Planet with taxpayer money that is still going on in Glasgow. I can't see much advantage is hammering those batteries to bits unless some components are water soluble. You end up with such a mess it makes separating compounds more difficult. You could see the typical mess on the floor in one photo, so I expect they're not flammable when powdered! I don't know what happens to the crushed cars from the wrecker, they don't strip anything so to get the organics out you would need to hammer-mill the entire car and burn the result. That would get rid of the cardboard, the paint, the grease/oil & the plastics, leaving copper wires, aluminium components and steel as pieces all mixed together. The wrecker said after 2007 the bottom dropped out and the Chinese just emptied the ships straight into the harbour to get them moving again. Massive pollution either way, but like any of the third world, someone got paid a lot of cash to ruin an environment he didn't care about. Yeah, I wouldn't sleep above an electric car on charge.. just look at the airliners with the batteries in the tail to replace the APU.
  8. That's quite interesting. like most things they can be "recycled" but the real challenge is weather recycling them is economically viable. Dont we currently have isuses recycling aluminium cans? (china wont take them anymore?) i dont have much confidence we will be recycling batteries. I have always been told to never leave a charging battery unattended, dad was always stickler for that. So i always charge my batteries while i am around. and even if i have to work in the yard etc i put the charger and battery in the centre of my concrete floor. This all came to fruition a few years ago when a LiPo drone battery i had exploded into a ball of smoke while on charge. luckily it was fairly Isloated on a work bench. made a hell of a mess, and burnt the bench a bit. And yet, we now have people with ~75kw (!!) batteries charging while they sleep above them. I know they have thermal cut outs etc, but still a fairly significant risk with a gnarly consequence. petrol is flamable as well of course, but its fairly inert when in a sealed tank and you aren't doing anything to it.
  9. There are always two sides to a coin. Here is the other one, already emerging ! https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-10-25/electric-car-solar-battery-storage-waste-recycling/100564234 Cheers Banjo
  10. I recently brought a Toyota Corona 1984 model ST141 but am having great difficulties working out whether it is classed as S or a CS Does anyone know what the difference is between the two models or a way to tell the difference ? Much thanks.
  11. Thanks everybody! I will see if I see any leaks/cracks or loose vacuum lines, and then before really getting into it, I may just go to another pas/don't pay smog shop. After that, I can start with checking the timing. Hope it's nont the actual EGR unit - about $250 to replace (just for the part)
  12. Your car is likely to have a load more emissions stuff than most corollas,being California and all. Dont think my wifes 2001 corolla had EGR. EGR is pretty interesting as it injects a percentage of exhaust gas as an inert gas (that you don't need to add fuel to). so essentially you get the same amount of "air" but can use less fuel to get the same correct air fuel ratio. (whilst filling your intake with exhaust shit haha) If the EGR is blocked the car will still run fine, but i suspect will run a tad lean, which is probably why your NOx is playing up. NOx and SOx changes with air fuel ratio, and its fairly sensitive, small changes in AFR makes your NOx and SOx change dramatically. but still appear to run "fine". Its not unreasonable to me that the NOx is out at low RPMs (15mph) as the percentage of exhaust gas is higher than at 25mph. but i dunno, just theorising. Unfortunately with emissions tests your only hope is to get all the sensors and equipment working as per oem specs. investigate the EGR and fix it properly. then move onto the rest.
  13. hmm.. tricky.. you're talking about the performance-killers that Australians unbolt and throw away the moment they buy a Corolla. No smog testing here. He just said the EGR wasn't working, so it may be 'not working' by not opening even if the diaphragm is fine. So if it jammed shut the car will go better than ever! ..and I'm sure your one car in umteen million emitting more smog than they like won't kill the planet! If it is stuck open I expect you'd notice a poor idle, but if its stuck shut it might not make enough difference to see. That might be why it fails at low speed and not higher up, usually at low speed the vacuum would open the EGR to let exhaust back into the intake, but the lack of vac at more normal speeds would see it closed. Here's a generic sort of trouble-shooting. Given the different types of EGR valves, it is always best to follow the troubleshooting procedures detailed in the service manual, however, there are a few generic steps that can help to pinpoint diagnosis: Read any fault codes on electronically controlled EGR valves using a diagnostic tool. Check that all vacuum lines and electrical connections are connected and positioned correctly. Use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum supply hose for vacuum at 2000 to 2500 rpm. No vacuum at normal operating temperatures would suggest a loose hose, a blocked or faulty ported vacuum switch or solenoid or a faulty vacuum amplifier/pump. Check the vacuum solenoid while engine is running. On electronically controlled EGR valves, activate the solenoid with a scan tool and check the vacuum at end of pipe. If the solenoid does not open when energized, is stuck in the open or closed position or has a corroded electrical connection, loose wire or bad ground, EGR operation will be affected. Identify the root cause before replacing. If possible, check the movement of the valve stem at 1500 to 2000 rpm. The valve stem should move if the valve is functioning correctly – if not, and there’s vacuum, there’s a fault. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve using either a hand vacuum pump or scan tool depending on the type of EGR valve. If there is no change in idle quality, then either the EGR valve is faulty or the passages are completely restricted. If the engine idles rough or stalls, the problem is being caused by a malfunctioning control system. Remove the EGR valve and check for carbon build up. Where possible, remove any carbon, being careful not to contaminate the diaphragm. Inspect the EGR passageway in the manifold for clogging and clean if required. But a good one is apparently to reduce the ignition timing a couple of degrees. See here- https://community.cartalk.com/t/ca-emissions-test-fail-hi-nox-at-low-speed/32210
  14. Well,you can work this out Banjo- Tesla use a range of batteries from 60KW.hr to 100KW.hr, so lets take a 90KW.hr. That's apparently 410amp.hrs at 375volts. Our conversion batteries are 180amp.hr at 3.2volts, so we'd need about 120 of them in series to get 375volts. That would still be 180AH, so to boost capacity we'd need twice as many to get 360AH. 240 conversion batteries would weigh 670kg, a good comparison to the 2.2ton Tesla with 550kg of battery. They would take up 0.9 of a cubic metre, each battery is about 300x70x180mm, tall, skinny and average long. Say 30 lying down under the parcel shelf in the boot, 170kg, and another 30 in the engine bay to balance with 170kg in the nose, leaving 180 to put where the back seat was! Now you have a 2-seat KE70 (that's fine!) which weighs about 1.6tons and does 1-100kph in a few seconds! ..and a mortgage for the 240x$260.. um, $62400 cost of the batteries!
  15. Hello, I have a 1995 Corolla (1.6L, 150,000 miles)) and it failed the CA emission smog test (Failed the Nitrous Oxide/NO test at 15 MPH/Passed the NO test at 25 MPH). Smog tech said I should have run the car for at least a 1/2 hour before bringing it in to be smogged so everything was HOT (oxygen sensors, catalytic converter) because the car just barely failed. Put in some better gas & drove it an hour at 60 mph and drove back to the test place (kept the engine running until the guy took the car into to be tested. Now the guy said it failed again, but his time because the EGR valve failed?? He said the diaphragm in the EGR isn't working. Sounds plausible except that the car runs PERFECT!!! And unless I am correct, if the EGR diaphragm really wasn't holding vacuum, the car would run like crap (it runs great) - or am I wrong. And I would assume that the car would fail by a LOT, and not almost pass. Is this possible or is the guy scamming me? Or maybe he has no clue. The NOx reading at 15 MPH MAX is 504PPM, my car 635 PPM. And if the EGR was really bad, wouldn't it fail the NOx test at 25 MPH as well? (My car passed at 25 mph) Anyone know?
  16. Interesting column on this subject on the ABC website today, looking from it as "a consumer". https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-10-21/what-is-stopping-australians-buying-electric-cars/100524242 I occasionally travel to Canberra on business, & thought a good way to get some miles under the belt, in an EV car, would be to maybe hire one, having never driven one. I just checked the net to see if may car hire companies in Australia, are hiring EVs. Not many, it seems, but I did notice that Hertz are hiring the Tesla 3. I would be interested if anyone else on Rollaclub; has tried an EV car, either by hiring it, or a friend's car; & what your first impressions were. After reading that article today, with mention of "range anxiety", I could see how that could become very real. I've always loved driving in the outback, & in my younger days, that's where every holiday was spent. In a petrol car, you always carry one or two full jerry cans in the boot, to extend your range. You can't carry a couple of spare batteries ! The scenario, which always worried me back then, was getting lost or taking the wrong turn, because of poor or no sign posting. Driving on an outback road with few if any other road users, & not knowing how far to the next habitation, always created anxiety. I really think the hybrid solution is an idea solution short term for Australian drivers, until the EV car market gets more established, unless you are a pure "city only" driver. I recently read the detailed description of the Toyota hybrid arrangement, & it sounds brilliant. Only issue for me, is they are very expensive, & very complicated, so support Australia wide may be an issue. I've only had to call a tilt truck once in my life, but these days it is so common, as the NRMA, or RACQ roadside assist man, can do little to get you going again, unless it's something fairly simple. Cheers Banjo
  17. Instead of pulling up to a bowser you'd park over a hatch in the ground, old battery pack gets removed and new battery pack gets installed (probably with some kind of hotel power lead so nothing cuts out), all in a matter of minutes. The old pack then gets moved to a charging rack underground in the servo (where the tanks used to be, also nice and cool down there which will help with bulk charging). The hard bit is getting manufacturers to agree to an industry standard (or at least a standard range) so you don't have to accommodate 50 million different combinations of battery and interface. That, and getting users and rechargers to agree on ownership and liability of the batteries themselves (kinda like the gas bottles), separate from the car itself.
  18. There's probably some invisible unknown factor that most of us would never be able to work out unless we worked in the engineering department of a manufacturer. Who knows, maybe on some cars 4x100 is fine but for a slightly heavier/more powerful car the safety factor dips below 10 (or some other absurdly conservative factor that they keep above for legal reasons) and have to go for an extra stud. Just don't look at 60s/70s French cars with only 3-stud wheels - and I don't only mean dinky little 2CVs either, the V6 Alpine A310s were 3-stud too...
  19. If you have a look at some of the fast charging capabilities i'm not convinced its as big of an issue as it used to be for the majority of peoples uses. That porsche taycan can from from 5% to 80% in about 25mins (on the uber charger, much less on your standard home charger). its certainly not 5mins like a petrol car though ill give you that, but if stop for a coffee and a stretch of the legs then 30mins isnt too rediculous given where we are in the electric technology time line (at the beginning). porshe also has close to 400km range which is getting up there. Tesla is more range again. And it was only a couple of years ago that it was hours to charge with ~200km range, We've Come a long way in a short period of time. You do need the infrastructure ill give you that, and like most things we are miles behind. but just look at the UK, many options to charge on the go. They have their issues of course (different plugs, different speeds, payment options etc), but its still early days. Give it another 10 years, and we might be down to 15 mins of charge time with double the range. Cars were significantly better by 1915 than 1904:P I'm kind of annoyed how little emphasis there is on hybrid cars in AUS (and in general really). With our driving lifestyles in this large county i think its the perfect solution in this transition period. Elec around town for the short trips and petrol for the long ones. But greenies just see "petrol bad, electricity good"....although in saying that i do see quite a few hybrid corollas and rav 4s around - maybe they are more popular than i think. In saying all of this, I think the jury is still out on whether elec cars are actually any better than petrol ones on full life cycle analysis. But hey, that argument will never be settled 😉 At the very least local emissions that people breath are better, which is good for my asthma.
  20. Earlier
  21. Yer you prolly right. 4x100 vs 5 x 100 always confuses me. arguably same or very simliar bearing and hub size (As its the same pcd). more clamping force? more power? but then i've never heard of high powered 4x100 cars having an issue with wheels falling off due to being 4 stud and not 5. Suppose there must be a reason. If more studs is better, but then how much worse is one less...
  22. Hi Dave, That's a good site, & right here in Qld. I came across this commentary the other day, which Altezzaclub, will be in full agreement with, I'm sure. https://thenextweb.com/news/are-classic-cars-still-classic-if-converted-evs-yes-they-are I agree with you Dave, that there is always resistance when major events/things, that change in the world. Remember the history of when the world went from horses to cars. These new "fangled things", were so dangerous that the authorities of the day, forced each car to have a man walking in front of it, carrying a "red" flag. It's only early days, as yet, & the next 10 years will reveal lots & lots of changes. For people like Altezzaclub & Banjo, who love the sound of all that air rushing in & out of an engine; someone will produce a little box you attach under your dash, that emits those long loved engine sounds, in complete synchronization with the position of your right foot, on the "speed regulator pedal". I do however, believe that the long distances we travel between towns in regional Australia, will mean that fuel powered cars & trucks will be around for many years to come. Every little town has a petrol station. Under that big concrete apron is a very large tank, which is just a a very big existing "battery of power", waiting to be used. Difference is, I pull in; fill up, & I'm off in 5 mins. Just before this bloody pandemic, I delivered a car to my son in Canberra. I drove from Brisbane to Canberra in the one day, including a forced stop in Grafton, to get a flat tyre repaired (1.5 hour). If I had been in an electric car, having to stop every few hours for a charge, I'm sure it would have been after midnight, before I arrived. I believe there are already people working on this problem. We all used to take our barbi gas bottles to BCF or Bunnings to get them filled. Now you just call in at the servo, & swap it", when you fill up the petrol tank. Batteries will become so light & advanced eventually, that we'll probably just do the same with cars. Swap the battery. I seem to remember early days in Brisbane, when I think there were electric buses; & the battery was pulled along behind in a trailer. The bus just called into the depot; & they hooked on another fully charged trailer. Like this . . . We are definitely in a period of "a time of change". There are those that embrace it; & those that take a little longer. Anyway, electric vehicles are not that new. Circa 1904 Cheers Banjo
  23. Just got to remember we are in the very early stages of elec cars. maybe 10-15 years or so of proper consumer level aimed development. Petrol car was still a bit shit in 1904.... i like petrol cars as much as the next petrol head but i am very excited to see what happens with electric. I was reading a review that was comparing the audi rs6 petrol car to the uber electric audi e-tron (basically audi's version of the Porsche taycan). and whilst the RS6 was good the comments were that it felt like a dinosaur compared to the e-tron. Main issue that really needs to be solved is the weight of the batteries. But i'm sure over time they will sort it out. tesla model 3 is apparently 1600-1800kg. Thats not far off a V8 commodore. But the Honda E is 1500kg, which is ~200-300kg heavier than a petrol car of the same size. not quite there yet on weight in the small car sector. I did watch a really good review of the plug in hybrid version of the new Defender. Thats an interesting proposition. as weight doesnt really matter as its a giant 4wd not a sports car, but with ~30km of battery range thats enough to putt about in the city being all green and all (probably cover most peoples daily short trips - school - shops etc). and then you have the petrol engine for the long journeys where the high speed efficiency of the petrol can be taken advantage of, and if you have a defender presumably you will be doing long trips. "The late brake show" Youtube channel is the review i'm referencing, worth a look if interested. In regards to conversions, this guy is relatively close to me and ive seen his suzuki swift development car around a few times. pretty neat that people are having a go. https://www.ozdiyelectricvehicles.com/
  24. I first thought it was a tachometer, but it's only a clock
  25. The trouble with electric is they have max torque at zero rpm, and it falls off from there. The Tesla model S develops it all from 2000-3000 like a Falcon rocket going straight up, then it levels off until 5000, then declines to 12000. So they always talk about zero to blah blah because that's where they are really fast, and around town that's what most the driving is. So you'll never beat them in traffic light drags, but going from 80 to 130 repeatedly in the mountains won't be so impressive. I hacked this image to move the graphs back to the same point at 80kph. Under that the Tesla is quicker, end of story. Above that the Corvette will overtake a Model S and walk away, but the Tesla is still pretty damm impressive, an M3 won't catch it in the mountains. I think I'd find them too quiet to be any fun, I love that acceleration roar, but I'm sure I'll never find out!
  26. I reckon the battery issue is the problem, but doubtless one Keith could manage. Had a bloke rock up in his lime green Tesla last week to pickup some old C40 solexes. Was planning to replace the SU's he had on his Datsun Fairlady. Was telling me the tesla has a power to weight ratio that's better than a bathurst supercar thing. But which does he prefer to drive? The datsun of course.
  27. My theory is that they work on wheel bearing/driveshaft design first, and the size of those then drives the size of the hub and then the size of the PCD. And several of them being similar comes down to metric equivalents of imperial diameters (ie 100 is 4", 108 is 4.25", 114.3 is 4.5"), and some of them are then rounded further to the nearest 5/10mm or were a metric design to begin with (like 110)
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