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Banjo started following KE30 aircon , Toyota 4K Igniter Wiring and Marketplace
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Man ! Is that complicated. That was leading edge technology, back 30-40 years ago. However, the risk, with getting this system going; is that if & when some component in the ignition system, fails in the future; there will be a very high likelihood, of not being able to source the spare part at all, to make it work again. I also love getting olde things working again; however, there is a limit. There are plenty of trigger modules etc, that will fit inside existing dissy's, such that it appears to be "olde school", but will perform much better. Now take this guy ! I watched this video recently, & it was painful, to watch His efforts. However, He got there; & that was probably all He wanted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arxOB5u9kaE Then there was this one, which many of you have watched. 10 million plus views on utube, but I loved reading the comments left by viewers ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RX_AJRbYzc Cheers Banjo
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I'm not sure how similar these systems are, they must be about the same age. This is on my early 4AGE motor- Here's the theory- Here's the diagram- Here's what it looks like- and here are the colours on mine. One wire was cut off when I got it. As you can see, the colours don't agree with the diagram, Toyota were busy making a lot of different ignition/ECU systems doing the same work around the early 1980s I think, its always very confusing. I took my tacho off the coil negative. I've never seen electronic ignition on a KE70 so I'm not much help for you I'm afraid.
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I checked the wire's with multimeter, green one seems to be negative and blue one has 12v when ignition switch is on, but when engine starts the voltage varies, can it be a line to RPM meter? The RPM meter I have has a negative pulse input, so can't check with it.
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Aftermarket Aluminium Radiator Core/Shroud/Fan
Banjo replied to Banjo's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
I haven't completed the mods to the camshaft sprocket cover as yet, but I have sited the aluminium disk, I purchased (6mm x 120mm), where it will be located; & it looks almost, as if it was designed for this application. However, that's a few more precious hours, to finish that off, & then remove, the radiator, to get at the front of the "test engine", to remove & replace the camshaft sprocket cover, without removing the sump. What I really need to do now, is test the concept, of a 200mm aluminium disk, with magnets facing out along the edge, rather than out the side. So back to the A/C compressor bracket mounting points on the block, & a piece of bar, & it lines up perfectly; as the centre of the crankshaft, is in line with the bottom edge of the block, which is approximately where the compressor bracket mounting holes are. Ultimately, that Hall effect sensor, will be mounted on the cover pointing down to the edge of the disk, approximately 90 deg. from where it is in the picture below. So before I fitted any magnets, to the "rim", of the aluminium disk; I want to ensure the disk was perfectly centred, & there was no run out. The blank disks come as just that; cut with a laser, & with no centre hole. No real issue finding the centre of the blank disc. Just 2 or 3 lines across the disk, towards the edge. Measure the length of each, & find the mid point of each line. With a right angle set-square, draw a line at right angles , at the mid-point. These 2 or 3 lines should intersect at the centre point, of the circular disk. Then carefully drill at hole at the midpoint, & carefully enlarge, until you can get a reamer in there & gently remove only enough metal, until the crankshaft centre bolt, is a nice tightish fit, so there is no lateral movement in the plate, due to the hole being bigger, than the unthreaded section of the crankshaft pulley, retaining bolt. I went through this exercise, & finished up, with a run-out of the edge of the aluminium disk, of less than 0.5mm. I measured this run out, with a little metal "L" bracket, clamped so that you could turn the crankshaft, & measure the gap. Normally, you would true the disk up in a lathe. However, I don't have a lathe, but the engine to which the disk is fitted, runs. At idle; just hold a very fine file on the little shown silver bracket depicted; & because the aluminium is soft, & easy to work with; in just a few minutes, you have a perfectly concentric outer edge on the disk. It turns out the "diametric" round rare earth magnets, are made in limited sizes, & are very expensive; & I can't find the exact size I need, available in Australia. So initially, I'm going to press small "rod" magnets into 36 holes drilled evenly around the edge of the disk. The 200mm blank aluminium disk I purchased was not available in 10mm thickness; so I had to settle for an 6mm thick one. that should allow me, to drill & press in a 4mm dia. rare earth magnet. I'll practice, of a piece of scrap 6mm thick aluminium, before I go drilling the disk, around the periferal edge. Here is a pic, taken of the 200mm aluminium trigger disc, from the opposite side of the engine. Now there is no water pump, & no water pump pulley, or fan blades, it certainly will "unclutter the front of the engine, directly behind the radiator. I've since found an a 200mm blank aluminium disc on Amazon, that is 8mm thick, so have ordered one; but it's coming from overseas, so will probably take a couple of weeks. So next post, I'll either be elated, that it is working, as intended; or back to the drawing board. If it works, then the next job, will be building a Hall Sensor mount on the 120mm flat disk, on the camshaft sprocket cover, depicted in the first pic, in this post. Cheers Banjo - Last week
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KE30 Centre console mounting hardware?
Taz_Rx replied to Cloudsie's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
Where you at? I've got both genuine brackets I could sell. -
I've seen some that has done it but it's pricey and finding the parts all together still trying to get more information about it if you've got any do let me know parrot
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oh and any of you could recommend me any wiper motor for my corolla cause my old one failed on me not sure if it's electrical problems or just the wiper motor stopped midway through a heavy rain
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yeah my corolla did use to have aircon in it but previous owner took it out to hear more of the itb's, dash still has the original vents
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near to getting the short throw shifter and thanks for the info will definitely search more on that forum thanks Banjo
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Yes, was basically serving no purpose and I was constantly getting requests from potatoes who had put their personal details on it 10 years ago.
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Looks like it Pete ! If you start a new topic, it asks you to select a Forum, from the pull down list, & Marketplace"; is not in the pull-down listings. Cheers Banjo
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Is it just me, or has this section disappeared from the forum?
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KE30 Centre console mounting hardware?
Cloudsie replied to Cloudsie's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
Thanks Banjo. As you said, I could probably just hide some bracket underneath the carpet. Interesting that the front mounts are mounted that way. If you're able to get some pics I'll make up a custom bracket for it. Just annoying that it shifts around when I change gears but hey, it makes a great spot for a headunit and lets me keep the original radio and tape player in the dash. 👍 -
Europe to ban repairs on cars over 15yrs old
Banjo replied to altezzaclub's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
It is the contacts that fail, as the contacts approach each other; & the voltage is high; it then jumps across the gap; before the contacts actually mate. The elements will be designed for a 220V or 240V ac voltage. The supply voltage is an AC sinusoidal waveform. 240Vac, is the average of the sinusoidal waveform; not the maximum. The peak voltage is 1.414 times 240Vac., or 339Vac peak. Now you see the problem, which is timing. If the contacts coming together, coincides with the peak of the hi voltage waveform; "Bang". If you think back to pre-LED lights in our houses, when we had filament bulbs; you will remember, that bulbs "popped"; often in Winter; just as you were turning them on. Ever remember being in a dark room in Winter, & turning a light switch on; only to see a flash behind the light switch plate ? Filament was cold, with low resistance, & therefore drew more current. Actual point in time, at which the contacts closed, was completely arbitary. The secret; is to switch the light on, at the zero crossing point, of the 240Vac sinusoidal waveform, where the waveform changes from being negative, to positive (effectively zero volts). I have made it a habit of using high voltage SSRs (Solid State Relays) with zero crossing switching built in, to switch large loads that cause issues, for conventional mechanical switches. Typical Solid State Replay, with LED to indicate is has been "turned on", by 4-32Vdc input voltage. So irrespective of what time you "flick the switch", to power the solid state switch (SSR); the SSR, waits until the next zero crossing of the high voltage waveform, before it switches on. As a full 50Hz mains cycle is 20milliseconds, then the longest you would ever have to wait for the light to come on, would be 10 milliseconds. You would not be able to detect this delay. I have a whole house, built 20 years ago, where the light switches only switch 12V dc, & that 12V dc, turns on a solid state switch, which turns on the bulb. Worked really well for 20 years, & never had to replace a bulb ever. Then along came "hi efficiency" LED light bulbs, & another problem appeared. The highly efficent LED lights, sometimes glow in the dark, as they are so efficient, that the minute leakage current, through the solid state switch "snubber", is enough to cause some LED lights to "glow". Oh technology ! ! ! https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1807796 P.S. I was in NSW recently, in a Bunnings store, & You could not find a filament bulb on the shelf. Starting to go that way in Qld. also. Soon, filament bulbs will be a thing of the past, & you'll only see them in museums. Cheers Banjo -
Europe to ban repairs on cars over 15yrs old
altezzaclub replied to altezzaclub's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
Looking at those figures I'd be chasing a 20A 250V one! Not enough redundancy built in to their design or component manufacturing, the curse of computer design. -
Did your KE30 have aircon to start with?? The plastic vents under the dash are quite different between having it or not, and there's quite a bit of work to do if you have to find those parts and pull out the dash to fit them.
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Agree with Pete completely. Find an aftermarket compressor, of comparable size. Big task, but has been done before. Suggest you search on the 4AGE website forums, as there are a number of suggestions there. Whatever way you go, you are probably still going to need the 4AGE AC adapter bracket, which ever compressor setup, You finally decide upon. https://justjdmimports.com/product/toyota-ae86-4ag-16v-new-non-pwr-str-a-c-bracket/ Good luck ! P.S. Did you save up, for the imported short shifter ? Cheers Banjo
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There are a lot of parts to hunt down for the AE86 aircon and they are old, worn out and expensive. If you can find them. But the upsurge in AE86 prices has people looking to restore to factory. If there are modern alternatives in a complete kit you can retrofit I would be doing that. What has your research thrown up so far.
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suc._.suc started following KE30 aircon
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So i have a corolla ke30 2 door with a 4age engine but there is no aircon components for it, would it be better if i should just find the components for the 4age aircon or just get an electric aircon kit and if so any recommendations?
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Straight8 joined the community
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Europe to ban repairs on cars over 15yrs old
Banjo replied to altezzaclub's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
That's Not a problem, unless they have that model cooker on the international space station; & then you have to wait 6 months until the next shuttle comes up, with a spare. Lots of coolish meals, methinks ? That relay is cheap on ebay Cooker Relay Only $3 - $4 & it will be here in a month from China. MPA-S-112A Looks like the contacts overheated & took out the relay case. As long as it hasn't melted the copper track on the printed circuit board, & the solder, you be up & cooking in no time. Cheers Banjo -
Europe to ban repairs on cars over 15yrs old
altezzaclub replied to altezzaclub's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
..and the problem was- Chinese relay.. I removed the wire and sealed it. Still, now I know how a cooktop is put together and we don't need more than 3 elements I'm sure! The other talking point flying around for a month has been satellite-linked data-gathering in cars. The public are slowly catching up with the manufacturers who can store everything about your new car as you drive.. speed, location, direction, gear used, rpm, how many people in the car.. Of course the Govts are making this compulsory in some countries, along with a Police-controlled kill switch that will disable your car. The manufacturers will sell the data to the insurance companies and the Govt, so instant speeding fines and change of insurance costs. I'm glad I lived in the 60s-70s, the future will be nothing like then! -
Banjo started following KE30 Centre console mounting hardware?
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The single screw securing the rear of the manual centre console; just screws into a little bracket. Don't think I've got a spare one in the shed, but it wouldn't be hard to make something that allows it to be tied down securely. Doesn't have to be pretty, as it is hidden under the carpet. The front mounts are a bit doggy, unless it is tied to the underside of the dash. I've got to clean my KE30 out at the weekend, so I'll take the console off, & take a couple of pics for you, that should assist a clever person like You, to make something up suitable. Cheers Banjo.
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Cloudsie started following KE30 Centre console mounting hardware?
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Hey guys, Been so much fun owning my ‘77 Ke30 and driving her around. Been a Perfect first car for me since I got her back on the road. Recently I bought a trailer of parts from a ‘78 KE30 which came with the facelift silver dash and the centre console, which I immediately wanted to put in my black dash car. I don’t have any relevant hardware (screws, bolts) to secure it in. I did some digging and there’s also a bracket that tucks and bolts into the top of the console and the dash as well? Could I get away with some suitable Bunnings screws to stop it from moving when I’m shifting gears? cheers.
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Europe to ban repairs on cars over 15yrs old
Banjo replied to altezzaclub's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
Don't worry Mate ! You can always revert to this in your back yard ! No controls on this one, except a piece of free stick, to rearrange the coals ! Can't see a Bunnings in sight, in this shot ? P.S. Even makes you a cup of cha at the same time ! How good is that; & no electricity bill. Must be your backyard ! It's got an olde Corolla parked up there ! Cheers Banjo