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  1. Today
  2. 1430cc 73mm 4k crank 79mm forged OS pistons Forged rods 4k block 3k bigport head TRD head chamber profile OS SS 1pc valves HD matched valve springs Special guides Light port Arp head stud conversion kit Custom fibre head gasket x2 Vernier adjustable timing dual row Vernier cam cover plate on timing cover High volume oil pump Baffled sump Chromoly lightweight flywheel HD modified fibre clutch Electric recurve dizzy (no recurve yet) Comp 11:1 static Reground camshaft mild Variety of cams can be used Twin carb match ported manifold Needs carbs and exhaust to suit cam Solex 40's and redline exhaust available Parts and machining over 6k Brand new, minor assembly needed Build for race and rally Reliable build Professionally machined Probably some other things... Offers around 4k considered Pickup Brisbane Possible shipping interstate
  3. Yesterday
  4. Last week
  5. Pretty straightforward- Screws into plastic clips in the rubber strip across the car under the bonnet, tabs on the scuttle panel that slide out under the screen. Clean the box out the best that you can, a lot of leaves and dirt gets in there and hold moisture in so it rusts. Oil the joints in the wiper arms while you're in there too. I can't remember if you HAVE to take the bonnet off, or if it just helps to make it easy. I'm only taking the scuttle off when I have the bonnet off anyway.
  6. Hi l am after a ke70 ac compressor if any body got one let message me thanks.
  7. Been a couple of months, but it's been a slow & different year for everyone I guess. The Speeduino ECU underwent all the bench tests, & has finally migrated to the garage, & got hooked up to the 5K engine on the stand, controlling the ignition initially, in full sequential COP mode. After setting up the initial tooth wheel settings, the engine fired up, first time, & was rock steady, on the strobe timing light. The trigger clamp on the timing light, designed to go around a spark plug lead, would not go around the exposed COP tube. I used a work around, as pictured above, but discovered that the sensor would trigger the timing light, if it was placed close to the head of the COP. It worked perfectly. The removal of the distributor, requires it being replaced by a dummy drive shaft, to allow the camshaft to continue to drive the all important oil pump. An old 3K Denso dizzy cut down, with a 35mm cup type welch plug as a cover, provided a perfect dummy drive shaft. The synch pulse from the camshaft is provided by a Hall effect sensor that is mounted on the timing chain cover, detecting a single rare earth magnet, fitted to the camshaft sprocket. So a week or so, playing around with all the Speeduino settings, & then it will be onto the next stage, of fitting my 7K EFI throttle box & inlet manifold, & hooking up all the fueling requirements. P.S. For those of us, familiar with rotating the dizzy to set initial timing, & watching the timing marks jump backwards & forwards, at idle, due to the slop & take up in chain & drive to the dizzy; the first thing you notice about crank toothed trigger wheel triggering; is how rock steady & accurate it is. Cheers Banjo
  8. Haven't done this before, just wondering if anyone has any tips? Thanks
  9. G25-550 .72 because i like to party... Just waiting for torque converter atm Turns out the factory converter is the same 8.inch deal everyonr buys to fit to turbo rb30 600-1000hp+ deals (i have one in my vl) So he can just weld that up and modify i don't need to buy another
  10. Earlier
  11. These arrived yesterday, should make the refurbished wheels look even better.
  12. Hey guys, Chasing some bonnet trim off a ke55 as pictured in good condition, i'm located in southern Tas but willing to pay post. Cheers
  13. Hi Lewis, It would be highly unlikely that Toyota would switch a 15A circuit through the small switches in the lighting stalk. Put the 15A fuse in, switch the fog light stalk on, & then go look for a +12V signal somewhere. When you find it, pull the 15A fuse out, & make sure the +12V disappears. If there is no relay provided, then use this +12V switched signal to power a relay, which will feed another +12V fused circuit to your fog-lamps, as per the sketches, earlier in this thread. Cheers Banjo
  14. So after looking at other forums, it seems toyota did not provide a relay space. The best there is, is a 15amp fog light fuse. Looks like I'm going to be doing some wiring!
  15. Hi Lewis, If there is a factory original harness down behind the fog lights, that is not used, then that is probably for the fog lights. If you have hooked it up, you will need to add a plug-in relay, for the fog-lights to work. Toyota would not provide a relay, if there was no fog lights fitted. However, the harness & relay/fuse box would be wired for fog lights, & all you should have to do, is add relay & fuse to the relay/fuse box. Should be a goer. Cheers Banjo
  16. Hey Banjo, yes its identical apart from the foglights function. Plugged it in and everything works apart from the foglights. Is there a relay that currently is not in my car that i need to source? Cheers
  17. Hi Lewis, Is the headlight stalk, assembly, with fog light switch built in, identical to your currently fitted one, except the foglight switch function ? If so, & the plug at the end of it lead is the same as your current one, I see no reason why it can't be used. If the plug & socket is easily accessible, I'd be unplugging the installed one, & plugging in the "fog light" one, & see if all the light switching functions still work, before swapping them out. Cheers Banjo
  18. I had the kick back solenoid replaced and a transmission service including some of the linkages tightened, new fluid and filter, and she is running like a dream again!
  19. Hey, thanks for the info, just wondering if it would be a slightly different process for a headlight stalk with a fog light switch. I got one of those but don't know if just swapping it will allow it to work. Any ideas? Cheers
  20. Hello. As background information, I live in Finland so all cars is question are European Spec. I'm thinking of upgrading my 4A-FE (from 1993 Carina E, same as the one from Corolla AE100, with Denso distributor) with bottom end from 1998 Avensis AT221. Basicly making Celica AT200 7A-FE engine on tight budget. Carina E 7A-FE would also be available, but they are Lean Burn engines so they have different heads as they have flaps in intake. I don't know if old style intake would even fit and is the head flowing as good as older one? Can 4A-FE ECU control increased capacity correctly or do I have to find AT200 Celica ECU? Are injectors with same resistance and do they fit or do I have to find Celica injectors too? How about camshaft profiles and combustion chambers in pistons and heads, basicly how much does compression ratio change and do valves have enough room to open correctly? Celica Carina and Avensis have different part numbers for pistons. Conrods are same between Avensis and Carina E 7A-FE but not the same in Celica. You have to use 7A-FE pistons as piston pin is 2mm larger than 4A-FE pin. You cannot use Avensis head as it does not have place for distributor. AT200 7A-FE head is the same part number as 4A-FE Carina E head. Problem is that AT200 Celica engines are hard to find and expensive in Finland, but Avensis wrecks are found everywhere and cost almost nothing. So my question is basicly if difference between Carina 4A-FE and Avensis 7A-FE is made mechanically by changing port/valve sizes and angles and/or camshaft profiles/lift in the head to reduce emissions and lower power or is it all made electrically in ECU and with intake and exhaust profiles? And yes, 7A-GE would be nice but idea is to retain 4A-FE stock engine management and keep the car "daily driven". I have multiple 4A-FE heads but no 7A-FE bottom ends, I would like to know which one I have to find. I'm thinking about few different engines so this information is for future build.
  21. Have dissembled & cleaned this Mazda 121 EGi (Electronic Gasoline Injection), cross between a carby & a throttle body. It appears to be made by Hitachi, including the TPS & MAF sensors. Trying to discover it's design criteria, & how it works. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a running Mazda 121, with an EGi "carby" fitted, which would provide a broader input, & something to play with, & take some measurements. However, I was able to download a free Factory workshop Manual, that did throw light into where all those ofrifices going in & out of the dicast body. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.manualslib.com/download/1031156/Mazda-121.html The whole design is quite simple, & does, (as I hoped) lack the tiny little internal passages in the dicaste body, like our common Aisin carby, with it's idle, low, & main fuel jets & paths within, which can be so problematic. The EGi unit, has a mechanical screw idle adjustment, with initial mechanical coolant temperature idle adjustment, when the engine is cold. Once the engine warms up, the electronic bypass valve comes into play. So the EGi is a mixture of olde world mechanical & new world electronic control. The EGi is manufactured in two pieces. The top casting includes the single injector & integral fuel rail. The bottom half is the throttle body proper. Top half of the EGI, viewed from the bottom, clearly displaying the single injector discharge point, smack in the middle of the venturi. Top view of the previous pic, The "fuel rail" passes straight across the casing, pressured fuel entering on the LHS, & the fuel pressure regulator, with return & atmospheric compensation on the RHS. The MAF sensor fits to the flat on the bottom of this pic. The resistive elements are in the hole are in the airstream through the dished hole, which then swirls around, & re-enters the venturi above the butterfly, through two openings. Same pic, but with the cover removed to show the injector snuggly fitted in the centre. Top view of the throttle body. The thermostatic idle control for cold engine is seen in the top RH corner of picture. I want to take the injector out, to ultrasonically clean it, but have not been able to remove it, as yet. It appears that you push it back up, but it won't budge, & I don't want to apply any more pressure, in case I crack or break the dicast "bridge" across the venturi. Suggestions welcome. From Manual: P.S. Just got it out. There are two (2) "O" rings supporting it, as I thought, but being old & hard, & stiff, they took a bit of budging. Here are pics, with injector removed. This is the cold engine idle control, which is disengaged, once the coolant reaches temp. Have measured it compressed length at room temp, then dropped it in a saucepan of hot water, withdrew it, & measured it again, to ensure it had expanded. Works well. One trick I found worked well, last night, while tracing the passage ways in the body, was to shine an LED pencil light into a hole, in a dark room, & then pier into the other holes, to see which ones were joined. There was enough reflection from the passageway walls, that you could see the light around bends & corners. Cheers Banjo
  22. K50 Gearbox ex KE70 When I run a straight edge across the backstop flange, it just clears the heads of the bolts, that retain the front Bearing Cover to the gearbox case. That should allow the CSC assembly to pass over the bolt heads, without issues. I would suggest that the removal of the Clutch Fork Pivot head, would be an ideal point, to mount the location rod, that comes with the ACE CSC, to prevent it from rotating on the central spigot. The radial dimension from the centre line if the gearbox shaft, & the centre of the fork pivot ball, is exactly 50mm. Hopefully, the slot in the side of the ACE CSC, will accomodate this dimension. As long as the "depth" of the ACE CSC is not much deeper than 45mm, I can't foresee too many issues arising. The only requirement, I can see, to making this all work; is to match the Fixed Spigot OD, with the ID hole in the ACE CSC. I suspect, this spigot, may be a tad too small in OD, at 27.5mm. That surely can be fixed by pressing on a tubular sleeve, with an interference fit, then turning that sleeve down to the required OD. I'll contact Mal wood, this week, & see if the ACE unit is suitable. Hopefully, they have converted a Rolla GB, previously, & it's all go. Cheers Banjo
  23. More can be found on the subject of CSCs (Concentric Slave Cylinders) at the link below, on another thread in this forum. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76019-ke70-cable-to-hydraulic-clutch/?tab=comments#comment-721367
  24. More on the subject of Concentric Slave Cylinder conversions, can be found at this other thread on RollaClub https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77940-upper-thermostat-housing/#comments
  25. That's a good idea. Funny how these threads start off in one area, & emerge into associated topics. I'll put a link in both topics, so anyone reading either, can find the other. Looking forward to any pics you have of your CSC (Concentric Slave Cylinder) conversion. Cheers Banjo
  26. That's good ! I can't imagine that Catalytic Converters were fitted by Toyota, back in 1979. I like that wording of Historic/Classic, in the same sentence. I would regard our early Rollas, as classics, but never "historic". I went to an all British Car show in Sydney a couple of years ago, & there certainly were some "historic" olde cars there. Cheers Banjo
  27. No catalytic is my original choice so glad you guys are backing it haha. So no cat it is!! My car is registered as a historic/classic vehicle so I don't need to have emissions performed on my car since it is not a daily driver. Therefore, I don't NEED to have a cat in my Rolla for emissions. 😉
  28. Maybe we should add this stuff in the "KE70 cable to hydaulic-clutch" thread where more people are likely to find/see it? I'll dig up some more pics of my conversion and add it in there.
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