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  2. Grrr! This new Rollaclub is pissing me off! I can't post links in my old Firefox! OK, you're right, if the timing hasn't been touched you can replace old points with new ones and it all runs like new. The timing goes back to 10deg. Now, if you buy an electronic dizzy you will have to change the springs on the advance weights under the plate that holds the modules on. They are designed for a forkhoist, so they have a really slow advance curve with a low total advance, and the car runs but has no acceleration. All about it is here-
  3. Today
  4. OK so now I can see the relationship between the points gap and the timing now that you have added a worn rubbing block into the equation. So if I had replaced the existing points with no wear on the rubbing block then the timing should have been OK as it was originally set with a full rubbing block. The only unanswered question is why would the rubbing block suddenly wear down on a single trip. I know that the adjusting/fixing screw was well hard to undo so I know that it didnt slip. The Princess may have to consider an electronic dizzy set up in the future as suggested by Dave. I will see how it goes for now.
  5. Also remember correctly adjusted points are supposed to last for ages, as long as spark plugs, if not longer. 20,000kms etc. They are not supposed to be temperamental or constantly need fiddling with. In the 4years i had my 4kc I think i replaced the points once, I checked the adjustment a few times but they were never very far out of spec. I was even too poor back then so I cleaned up the contacts on a set of points i had and put them back in.....
  6. Nice- i've amended it slightly to show how a big points gap (new points) opens the points earlier from their closed position in the middle of the flat part of the shaft 'cam'. The worn points have to wait longer before the lobe pushes them open, the rotor has turned further, so the spark occurs a few degrees later. They also don't open as far and close sooner, and that upsets the coil charging time.
  7. The neutral switch is under the center console, by the auto gearlever. Which signal wire up by the battery? Do you have a wiring diagram you can label it on for us? Check the wire that activates the starter solenoid. Do you get 12V at the starter when you turn the key to start? Check the coil +ve, do you get 12V with the key "on" and do you still get power there with the key on "start".
  8. Don't forget there are two circuits running the coil! One comes on when you turn the ignition on, and it is the one that keeps the ignition on when you are driving. The second one only powers the coil when you crank it, and the first one is switched off. So when you first turn the key you use circuit 1, then you turn that off and use circuit 2, then turn that off as you let the "start' position go and use circuit 1 again. If you have a problem with the "start" circuit you can get power at the dizzy with the ignition on OK, but as soon as you crank it you lose ignition. So just make sure you are getting 12V at the coil with the key on "start". You can bypass it by running a wire from battery +ve to coil +ve and having permanent power on the coil while you try for a spark.
  9. Yesterday
  10. I sense something fundamentally wrong with your arrangement, and i've no idea what else we can type to help you figure it out...
  11. Car cranks fine. Just need to find that neutral switch. Only plug I found unplugged. Can't see where it would go.
  12. What you see below is a 2nd gen "F" head with 4 downward sloping intake ports. My client is planning on running about 10#s of boost though this........ More to come........ :D
  13. this is my terrible attempt to illustrate how points wear causes a change in timing. IN my diagram, u see the distance from lobe to the pivot point of the points, (and therfore the distance away from perpendicular to the actual rubbing block) changes as the points are allowed to wear away. U stick new points on after removing old points, without setting the timing, its likely to not start.
  14. Don't worry about the rears, do the fronts first if not done already... and then rears are almost just for drift hydro handbrake antics. Would suggest to convert to ae86 front setup first with brake upgrade for ae86 and then later do t series diff conversion which allows lsd options and drum to disc options... Suspension options also open up with ae86 fronts / t series rear end for more performance...
  15. NSW

    PM'd you Rob, I'll take a look this week- cheers
  16. Well, when you find out what it is we will all be surprised! So, power goes from the coil to the module and back to the coil. That should fire the coil. Have you seen the dizzy turn? No use putting the cap on and not knowing the shaft pin has sheared! Do you have the tiny airgap between the rotating vanes on the dizzy shaft and the pickup sensor module? A points-type gap is way too large. Dizzy cap is OK? Not losing the spark becasue the carbon tit in the cap doesn't touch the rotor top? Does it make a spark plug spark is the question, it doesn't matter if the car won't start. Test it with the spark plugs all out and one plug on its lead with a bare wire wound around the thread and the wire bolted to earth.
  17. Thankyou Ke70dave in that case, is there a step by step on the ae86 conversion, as this car is a father / son project, and safety is my priority. I'm looking longer term, at an engine swap as the 4K is pretty tired. So the priority is to upgrade the braking for now.
  18. Still do not have spark even with 12v coming from every channel of the module
  19. NSW

    Hi Keith How much would the bonnets off the blue car or the yellow ke30 going for ?? rob
  20. Pretty much impossible on the standard differential without custom made things. Most people ugprade the differential with something that can take an LSD that also has disc brakes. T18 or ae86 diff is a very popular swap and is well documented. however i don't believe a tail shaft exists that will work with the 4k motor, assuming you still have a 4k motor.
  21. Hi all does anyone have a step by step, to do a drum to disc conversion on an 82 ke70 please? thanks for any info
  22. Last week
  23. Hi. Depends wich t50 you got. What year is it and out of what car?
  24. Gday rollaclub crew, just wandering if anyone out there knows the correct tilton throwout bearing [serial number], or picture of the correct one to use with t50 gearbox could reply back to me would be greatly appreciated.
  25. Ta22 long bonnet vents in good condition. 330 aud delivered and tracked. Item Located Malta Europe.
  26. It literally doesn't even have a physical horn lol. At least I can't find one in the engine bay. I pulled the dash apart and found the central locking kit. For some reason it can't make the actuators work. They work fine off my drill battery. So I ripped it all out. It has a starter motor/ignition immobiliser which I've rewired into a kill switch.
  27. You probably already know this, but that cheap boss kit that's on it is the same one I had on my 30, the lining up for the horn pin thing is horrible and doesn't work.
  28. And need to do a muffler delete and throw some blast pipes on or something. Really needs a good exhaust note.
  29. So yeah, stock ecu. Fmic was floating so I mounted it properly. Hid the HIDS. Fixed the park lights. Secured the pod filter. Tidied up the amp wiring in the engine bay. Pulled the dash out and got rid of the green dash leds and replaced with blue. Now to find the alarm/central locking and sort that out. Also doesn't seem to have a horn.
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