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I am looking for an intake manifold for my toyota 4k 1.3 engine to fit a set of Hitachi SU carburetors on i do have a 2 sets of very nice carburetors i just need the manifold and if it so happens to cone with another set of carbs thats ok i am really hard up for a LynxCorp intake manifold

If you have any pictures i am also looking for one very very badly want one

There is nothing more stable, in terms of an electronic ignition system, triggering system; than a "crankshaft mounted", iron toothed, or "flying magnet", trigger wheel. Stable, because there is no need, at all for a C.A.S. (Camshaft Angle Sensor), if You use a trigger wheel with a missing tooth, & run the ECU in a "Wasted Spark" ignition only, or EFI Ign & Inj mode.There is plenty of room usually, down on the crankshaft pulley, to mount quite large diameter wheels, which results in good clean On/Off spacings for either VR or Hall Effect sensors. However, I must admit; that if You are a novice, & going to carry out this mod from scratch, with the engine in the car, It could be a lot more difficult, than with the engine out. Wouldn't be nice, if You could just pull out the original easily accessible distributor; & replace it with a a distributor, that has been internally gutted, & actually has a multi-toothed wheel, & a CAS signal, therein. Now that concept is nothing new; as some early Nissan distributors had such an arrangement, with a stainless steel plate, with slots punched through them, with a LED light souce on one side, & a photo electric diode or transistor, on the other side. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Nissan_Optical_CAS I know years ago, I played with them, but ultimately gave the idea away, as "oil fog", coming up the dissy shaft, would create fogging of the light sensor, which resulted in missing & the like. I know Simon, down in Tassie used to play with these, like me; as I researched the subject on Rollaclub, & came across Simon's original threads & pics. So Altezzaclub had a problem on His 4AGE engine where the dissy, hangs out over the side of the engine, very close to no: 1 exhaust header, resulting in it getting pretty hot. (actually bloody hot) The particular dissy He had, had the early Toyota ignition system which used two VR (Variable Reluctor) sensors) to sense 4 off teeth on one trigger wheel, & 24 teeth on the rotational speed & positional wheel. The whole concept, was to use the 4AGE dissy, as an input device to a Haltech Sprint 500 ECU, & use COP ignition coils, removing the need for distributor cap, & HT spark plug leads, altogether. Now It was a tight ask, but as the pictures atest, but I was able to get two smaller, robust commercially available, Hall Effect sensors in there, from a ATV. I ground 3 of the teeth off the four (4) tooth wheel, to produce a single CAS signal for the ECU, from the remaining single tooth. The 24 teeth, then produced a clean pulse train for the ECU input, to determine crankshaft RPM, & position. Note the temperature sensor, to see how hot it gets in there, once it's back in the car, & running. Here is the output of the Hall Effect sensors. Nice clean sharp 5V DC pulses. Actually, at one stage, I was hoping to get a magnet disk in there using assymetrical Rare Earth magnets, with the Hall sensors poking down through the lid on the top of the 4AGE dissy, but working with the assymetrical rare earth magnets, is a steep learning curve, I discovered. (assymetrical magnets have their N & S poles, on the "curved" outside of the magnet, rather than on the conventional round ends). Cheers Banjo

It won't be available from Toyota. As mentioned, find a specialist who can refurbish the mechanism and replace the webbing. We have them in Australia so no doubt you will find someone over there.

Hi m restoring a ke20 and i have a few wiring problems no headlights or wipers i;m ultimately looking for someone Brisbane Southside that i can pay to fix it as i think its beyond my capabilities and does anyone kno if new light Switches are available tħanks in advance ric

Doing a resto on a ke20 at the put back together stage i have a few wiring issues i have no wipers and no headlights id like to go to halogen iwhile I'm at it , looking for headlight advice or ultimately find someone brisbane southside that can fix it for me and ill pay them thanks ric

Well, you check out your mechanism and see if it retracts, I'll get photos of the KE70 setup, but it will all be 4-door stuff here in Oz. Likely that Toyota used the same mechanisms, but the belt length will be longer in yours.

Appreciate it! I’d like for it to work since it’ll be the driver belt. This one goes through the rear door panel so I believe the lift back models work as well. The previous owner wrapped the entire seat belt fabric in duct tape so I’m going to assume the mechanism isn’t working anymore. If it ends up costing an arm and a leg I’ll just buy from the dealer website, but anything helps!

ooh nice! I don't think I've seen a two-door here in Aussie. Do you want the seatbelt to work or just look good? A second-hand one will be 40years old, sun-damaged and wear-frazzled at the edges. If you have the mechanism, get new belts put on it. If you haven't got the mechanism, I can probably get one locally from the wrecker, although every time I go to buy something from the USA the freight costs a fortune!

I have an 1983 SR5 Corolla Hardtop and wanted to see if anyone has a seatbelt for the driver side (left side in my case, USA). The interior is blue so that is the preferred color, but please send me if you have any. Also looking for interior door pull handles. Pictures attached. Thank you, I’m looking forward to getting this one the road soon.

I have had the exact same thing with my big port red top but my one was bought in bits did you get info on this cus I am worried if I should replace it and the cam cus on mine the cam is worn in the same spot aswell

So I had to keep moving the brace around to clear the lock, pushing it up higher in the frame seems to work. But I will still need to put a relief into the brace for the latch mechanism. It is tight in there But as they say, "clearance is clearance". So I have trimmed the ends of the brace, I will bend them over, weld and make a solid right angle. Then I can spot weld it onto the frame, but first, more repairs to the frame edge

My issue is that the brace is contacting the inner frame, I have started putting some shrinks on the edge to give it a curve. With the brace being straight you can see how curved the rear hatch is. So a little shrinking on the edge flange between the dimple die has put a nice curve on the brace and it matches the frame

Well my conundrums continue and my procrastination continues with it. I put the lock back in the rear hatch so I can take some measurements for locating this brace. there is plenty of room between the outer skin and one inner frame. The issue is the budget that holds the lever. I think I can modify the brace so that it ties into the same bolt holes for the brace. It would make it nice and strong and give me a place for he central locking mechanism. The idea for the central locking is to have a small latch rotate and then block the lever from being pressed.

The standard BorgWarner diff used in Aussie has a steel plate on the back of it, where you lift the crownwheel out if you need to. The Japanese banjo style T-series have no plate on the back and the whole front of the diff unbolts. You will soon spot them, they are completely different in manufacture. Check the build plate too, it will have the diff designation on there. Find the topic where I swapped the Girls KE70 diff and check out the panhard changes etc. especially the washers needed for the different hole sizes in the arm mounts. Check out the vans in the wrecker too, take a tape to measure the widths and see what you can find. The Celica T-series diff brings larger diameter brakes, a wider diff but mind the ratios. Make sure you get all the bolts for the T-series too.

Howdy Corolla enthusiasts. I'm in need of a new diff for my KE70, i've heard the T series diffs are the way to go. I am planning on putting a 4AGZE in it and was wondering if that is still the case and if so where should I look. I've seen some people have luck finding T series diffs out of RA60 Celicas. There are a couple of unnames 3rd Gen Celicas in the yards around me. How would I know if they have a T series (sorry, I'm a bit of a newbie). Thanks in advance!

Is it the sort that springs back after the power makes it open? So the motor only turns forward then turns off, and it is normally closed without 12V to make it open? If it is closed when its in your hand, put it back on without wiring it up and you will know that air is not going in there. Are there only three options? Faulty ECU, faulty IAC valve, or an air leak somewhere? Does it have the old waxstat air control as well, to do the coarse cold-idle adjustment? Is your car also an auto? I don't know if there is a difference in the ECUs for manual and auto, but the auto needs a higher-powered idle than a manual. My 4AGE in the KE70 never idled with a stock ECU, either too low when in frost or too high when hot. Its only been solved with the Haltech where I have control of fuel and advance to keep it around 1000rpm..

Hey Unfortunately, I've already tried that and seen no difference. The actuator moves freely. cheers

This video, will take You 24 minutes to watch. Do Not turn it off, until the very end. No, It's not an announcement that Toyota is to reintroduce the 4K engine to it's current line up ! However, I'm sure You will come away from it, with a whole new perspective, if You were one; that believed; that all us, would be driving electric cars, by the end of this decade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WNz1Hru_9I Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo

" the ICV is stuck open and squirting carb cleaner into the throttle body hole alone will not always free it. Unplug the cable to the ICV, undo the screws holding the electronic device to the body. Once removed see if you can spin the electromagnetic actuator on the body back and forth freely, if not that is the problem. To sort it remove the middle hose below, not the water hoses, then place your finger over the hose outlet whilst filling the hole in the throttle body with carb cleaner, this will ensure it is flooded with cleaner and not simply draining down where the hose was connected. Keep the fluid in there for ten mins whilst trying to rotate the actuator until it is freely moving then reassemble. This problem not only occurs due to gunge but also if laid up for a long period when oxidisation can seize the shaft, could also by why used parts often do not solve the problem as they have been laying around unused." Give it a go... I found it on a Cressida a few years ago.

Hey, I have recently swapped a 7afe in my ae95 and having some issues with idle from start up. The 7afe came out of an auto ae115 so have had the two wiring looms spliced together and running the 7afe ecu. The car starts but has an idle of 2k then creeps up to 3k and sticks there for a while once the throttle has been opened. I have checked for leaks and can't find any, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the iac valve and checked timing. Any advice beyond this? Cheers

..and over the weekend I found that if you have a couple of 15-12mm bushes lying around you can fit the stock KE70 rubber strut tops to the BCRs instead of the camber-tops. That takes some of the harshness of bumps in the road out, although I'll have to machine up a pyramid-shaped bush to do it properly.

I'm using BCRacing coilovers from Justjap in Sydney, recently fitted them to my KE70. You cut the strut leg near the bottom and weld the coilovers onto it. so you get the large diameter shock tube with a stock hub. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/16/#comments You might get weld-on adjustable spring bases too, but then you're limited to the stock tube diameter. Cheapest is to cut the spring base off and weld it back on 20mm lower.. but you're still stuck with the same diameter strut tube and hence crappy shock options.

Hey guys just wanting to know what front struts will fit into the ke55 without to much work. Just want the car to sit a bit lower and for it to handle better. Just wanted to ask before I go get a set of new ke55 struts. Cheers ke55rolla

Thanks mate I'll give it ago ! Cheers