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Those reasons you asked about are exactly why you get it done at a cam grinding specialist. They have shelves full of 'blanks' for each cam grind they do, giant cam lobe shapes that go on one end of the cam grinding machine and the machine copies them onto your cam. I suppose these days its all done in CAD. So you need to know the exact shape of some well-respected cam grinder's lobe, how much they took off the base circle and how rapidly they curved the cheeks, and did they cut a wave into it so it accelerate the valve, then slows it, then accelerates it again.. The shape is crucial to not hammer the valve as it hits it to open it, or not to let it slap onto the seat and damage it, and a few other factors like valve springs and lobe separation. There are differences in 'advertised duration' and '50thou duration'. I had a Crow cut in my 4K, picked for mid-range and altitude, but there were these options too- The 7K bore to stroke ratio means it won't rev happily, so don't pick a cam going to 7000-8000. The longer stroke means piston speeds get very high and the rings don't like it. Make sure the cam grinder refaces all your cam followers too, they will have a wear pattern that suits your cam as it is and you want them fresh for the new cam. I'd do it through some country that has plenty of cam shops and an old Corolla fan base, European or Australian/NZ or Japan. I assume you're in Western Asia, India/Pakistan/Sri lanka way??

Also! This is probably a stupid idea but as I mentioned, due to where I live nobody knows how to regrind a camshaft for higher lift and duration, the machine shops know how to work but have never heard of this process and none of them speak English. Now sending a cam to be reground to another country is stupid expensive taking shipping and the exchange rate into account, so I wanted to know how do I explain to a machine shop the specifications of having a cam reground if they’ve never specifically done one? I can show them videos but how do we know how much material to take off the base circle to reach the desired lift and duration? and how do we ensure that the all lobes are ground evenly by the exact same amount? Cheers

Thank you for your timely responses I will surely calculate the compression ratios although i believe the shop has finalized on the flat head being the best option. Currently on a stock 4K I'm running 92 octane most of the time, but once the 7K is built ill run 97

Wow thank you very much for the electrical diagrams! Though I was hoping if there exists a pinout for the socket connectors to leave out the guesswork, but this will do. I just need to pray now that hopefully the wires are the same colors. Yes this is a pinoy "jeep". More specifically "owner type" (private use) - these are small versions compared to the standard "jeepney" which are more truck like for public transport.

Here's what happens inside the switch stalk- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65208-high-beam-turns-headlights-off/#comment-651107

Try this- https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kxtqr769ojtetah/downloadfile.jpg?rlkey=ulck2pyqn6u8nd163h0awrj7w&e=1&dl=0 So is that in one of the little 'Pino jeeps?

Hello, my car uses a steering column assembly from I believe a KE70. Not sure which variant, but it was imported from japan, and has the wiper stalk on the left, and the turn signals stalk on the right. The wiper motor is not receiving any voltage, and I also need to fix some electrical gremlins on the headlights switching. I am looking if anyone got a pinout diagram for the wiring harness at the bottom for this steering wheel. Pictures for reference:

Brand-new alloy radiators on Ebay are only a few hundred dollars, that $1500 is crazy! Almost any K motor radiator will fit won't it, although you might have to re-drill some holes in the rad panel. The hoses are always in the same place. I have a perfectly good 4K rad in a box in my garage, ever since I fitted an alloy one for the 4AGE. Where abouts are you?

Banjo is right, the flat head will increase the compression ratio over the sunken head. Here's how I measured mine before skimming it to a certain compression ratio. Use petrol or diesel or kero, not water, as water has too high a surface tension. Seal the plastic sheet on with a little grease and fill it up with a pippette or burette so you get an accurate measure. It will be 35-40ml I expect. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Just add up the combustion chamber volume you measured, add 7cc for the head gasket, and whatever the cylinder volume on a 7K is, about 445cc. So your compression ratio will be the total volume at bottom dead centre divided by the volume at TDC, so (35+7+445)/(35+7), or 487/42, or 11.6 to one if your head volume was 35cc. After you've measured a combustion chamber in each head you will be able to compare the expected compression ratios. What octane fuel are you running it on? Higher compressions, say over 10:1, will need higher octane fuels.

Welcome Aboard ! My guess is that the compression ratio, will increase, as you compress the greater amount of induced air/fuel mixture, into a smaller volumetric area, as a result, of the flat replacement head, with smaller head chamber volume. You can readily find this new compression ratio out, if You refer to the 7K manual; or mathematically work it out by dividing the calculated swept volume, plus head volume; divided by the volume of the head, when the piston, is at it's highest point. Time to get your pipette out ! Cheers Banjo

That recore cost is ridiculous and you are getting ripped. Go somewhere else

Hello folks! I’m a 20 year old getting a 7K motor rebuilt to go into my TE71 fastback, the mechanical work will be done by the shop but I live in a 3rd world country where there’s isnt much technical theoretical knowledge but stuff just works haha Now the head that came with my 7K (on the right) was said to be weak and had been faced so went out and sourced another one which was difficult, but the shop found one which is out of another engine and much better (on the left). However this new head seems to lack this depression cavity cutout around the valves as observed on the one on the right. My questions are: 1. What does this cavity do, are there different types of 7K heads with and without this cavity? 2. What effect will there be if I pair dished pistons with each of these heads, the old weak valve cavity one vs the new flat head? Cheers :)

Well, buy yourself a set of feeler gauges and away you go! 10thou and 12thou from what I remember, or 8 & 10 depending if the motor is cold or warmed up. The exhaust valves have a slightly larger clearance as they expand more in the stem as they run hotter, and you need to always have a gap when the valve is closed or you burn the valve out.. I expect you would hear a loose tappet before those rpm, but I can't suggest any particular thing making that noise. Under the bonnet sounds terrible on any old car, especially as they are empty revs rather than the motor actually working. Its not some loose heat shield panel or similar is it? If you rev an engine in a slow curve there is a longer period around the top when it is floating, neither being accelerated nor decelerated. That is the time is is noisiest. If you rev it up and down sharply its is either being pushed or pulled, and you won't hear the noises so much. The harmonics change with rpm so motors get buzzy at a certain range then it vanishes. The 3SGE motors were terrible at 3000rpm as you lifted off the accelerator, the buzz sound would reverberate through the Altezza. If it has piston slap or loose bearings you hear the tapping or knocking quite clearly in my experience.

I would suggest that you remove the rocker cover, & then start the engine, without the rocker cover, if nothing visually, immediately appears to be amiss. You will probably find a tappet adjustment, that has come loose, or maybe a cracked or broken valve spring. Let us know what you find. Just check that the sheet metal on the inside top of the rocker cover, has not come loose at one point, so that it vibrates at certain high revs. Cheers Banjo

In the video link I posted, it's the momentary high pitch metal sounds (happens when the meter reads 350). Almost sounds like loose bolts, or grinding metal? I never really ran this enigne at high speeds, and I mostly keep rpms below 3000, most I think is 50 kph. The "noise" that I am concerned isn't really audible at least when I'm in the cabin. The video doesn't quite catch it, but it's quite jarring to hear when revving the engine with the hood up. I don't recall that "noise" being present before though, so I am worried something might be getting loose. I was suspecting valve clearences, since the shade tree mechanic did the tappet clearances maybe 2 years ago, and I don't know what feeler gauges settings he did.

Which noise??? Sounds like a K motor, a bucket of bolts! You are free-revving it so all the slack in the bearings, the timing chain, the piston slap, the valve train.. all are knocking back and forth as it is not loaded. When you drive it all those noises vanish as the motor is being forced in one rotation direction. What are the noises like around 70kph and 90kph when you are - Accelerating normally? Cruising at that speed? Decelerating slightly? Have you checked the tappet gaps? ..and the wear in the rockers where they rub on the valve? If they are grooved then feeler gauges will give you the wrong readings. Same with wear in the rocker bushes where they rotate on the shaft, the valve spring forces the rocker up against the bottom of the shaft but when the tappet gap appears the rocker can bounce up and down for a moment.

I got a 4K-U engine, and I need help identifying what might be the problem, as the engine makes this noise which sounds like coming from high up the engine, in the valve cover area. This noise is only noticeable when revving aggressively to high rpms, but when driving normally, I don't hear it from the vehicle cabin (or it might still be making noises, just not audible inside the cabin). aggressively revving to 3500 rpms Here is how it sounds like in normal conditions under 3000 rpms Rpms is meter reading x10 The oil was newly replaced, and I have been using the same 20W-40 oil that I have been using on this car all the time.

You can check here, any wheel size you lik https://www.wheel-size.com/

I'm struggling with finding wheels to put on my ke70 baby cress i would like to know if Toyota tazz drums would fit on the ke70?

Good to see you've still got it. I hope life is treating you well up north:)

In 2009 they were- The valve clearance for 4ac is: (hot) Intake - 0.20mm or 0.008inch Exhaust - 0.30mm or 0.012inch cold. Intake - .18mm .007In Exhaust - .28mm .011In https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/34040-ae71-4a-c-tappet-clearance-work-shop-manual/

What is the proper valve lash and adjustment on a 83 toyota corolla AE71 4AC 1.6 engine ?

Hi parrot, They charged me $180 for the dip, clean and antitrust coat after for the apron. I wanted such a small panel dipped as I have seen sandblasting warp smaller/thinner panels. I also got the bonnet dipped at the same time as there was a lot of rust right above the battery and the braces. The bonnet was $450. But it's a delicate process to remove the bonnet skin as it's mostly in good condition. So I'll tackle that once the rear hatch is complete

How much did they charge to dip the apron? I’m avoiding stripping the cowl cover on the KE15 after returning from sometime away OS.

I hope that this is what you are looking for 7K PDF manual https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wEmuOrLHUnWZSuMEeOsNvOHm4_mH0QaN/view?usp=sharing