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  2. 1980 Ke55 sedan (SOLD)

    Yeah guys a fella from Sorell has bought it.
  3. Carburetor jetting

    With regards to running lean, I think you can do that with any carby if it's not adjusted right. It sounds like you need to do the basic tuneup from the start, as per factory specs. I'm guessing that your timing is out. My jets are resized so I can give you a bit of advise on that one. I'm running a 4k block, 5k head with extractors. The compression is very high. It's a 3 speed trimatic auto box so not known for being too responsive with a 4k. I have a standard Aisan carby. With the standard jets, it's foot to the floor all the time, and a bit sluggish. With the jets resized (one size up from memory but maybe a bit more) my foot is hardly touching the accelerator, and the off the mark acceleration is excellent. Once I get to about 80kmh, it takes a while to get to 100kmh though. The fuel economy is crap. For the auto, I was advised against bike carbs/weber etc. If you've got a manual box, I'm not sure how rejetting would compare to swapping the carby for a weber or bike carbs though.
  4. Today
  5. KE55 IDLING ISSUE

    Just a quick update: I put a kit through the carby yesterday, changing all the gaskets, everything on the accelerator pump and the float valve. I also did the intake manifold gaskets of both sides for good measure. It is now running much better, and idling just fine! It does sound a little bit "clicky" so I'm now going to look at dizzy timing and valve clearances in the next couple of days. Thanks so much for all the help!
  6. KE55 IDLING ISSUE

    Nah Megawrecks make good bin fill. There is a reason no tuner in Aus worth their weight will touch them. They have zero flexibility in crank and or cam triggers, all I see on other forums is poor fuel economy figures or exploded engines.
  7. Carburetor jetting

    Just remember that even AFR can be misleading. For instance a misfire due to too much fuel will show up as lean.
  8. Hi Guys, I have a 79 KE55 and recently picked up a pair of 1 1/4 su's for it. I have done some digging on this forum and see that unless i build a "Tough" K motor that they won't be any good with a stock setup? Does that still ring true?
  9. Yesterday
  10. Carburetor jetting

    For the general overall performance, in regard to A/F ratio, a wide band A/F O2 sensor is really required. There are lots of things in an engine, that can limit revs, besides the A/F ratio being too lean. Have you experimented slightly with ignition advance ? Unless your engine already has some mods carried out to improve its breathing & ignition, remember that these engines were detuned from birth, so that they couldn't over rev., to limit warranty claims in the early days of Toyota development. Experiment with different aspects, for sure, to see what makes a difference, but only change one parameter at a time. Do too many things at once, or you won't know which parameter had the effect, you are seeing. Cheers Banjo
  11. Carburetor jetting

    I already have a narrowband O2 sensor and a cheap ebay digital gauge to install on the car, but it's not yet installed. I want to fully rebuild and tune up the engine at the beginning of Spring and it'll run on bike carbs, but in the meantime I want to run the engine safe. One thing I notice is that the engine struggles a lot in higher revs, like there's not enough amount of fuel mixture going in...
  12. Carburetor jetting

    There is a lot of difference between thinking you are possibly running lean, & actually knowing you are running lean. My advice is . . . . Take the car for a good 30 minute run, on the open road. (not in stop start traffic) As soon as you get back home, remove all four spark plugs, in order, and inspect them carefully. The colour of the spark plug centre insulators will give you a reasonable idea, whether you are running too rich, or too lean. Bear in mind, this only works, if your engine is not burning a lot of oil. There are plenty of good pictures on the net of spark plugs, in different states, operating under different states of A/F ratio. If the test is not conclusive, because the plugs are pretty dirty, then clean well, or replace, & do the exercise again, I have suggested above. If you really want to know the real A/F ratio, then I suggest you search Altezzaclub's posts on this forum, for his setup with two (2) sensors & a switched A/F ratio meter between the two. If you are only using a single carby, you don't need two (2) sensors. This is where I have mounted my O2 Sensor That way, you will really know where you sit, in regard to A/F ratio. If you put the A/F ration meter on the dash where you can glance at its readings, under different driving conditions, it will provide you with great insight into how your engine works, & what part A/F ratio plays. Let's know what you find with your engine. Cheers Banjo
  13. Carburetor jetting

    I'm running a carburetor from a 4K engine in my 5K and since I'm running a bit of compression (12,5 bar in each cylinder) I'm afraid of running lean. Did anybody drill the jets of the standard carb? Is it worth doing? What sizes should I run? It's a standard 5K with just the compression and slightly ported on the intake side.
  14. Haz's Ke15 Sprinter

    Yeah those are also trv like I bought. But they’re 6” wife and terribly high offset also only a pair. And chances of finding a matching pair in that same stud pattern in that wheel are very slim
  15. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    I think my problem is the extent at which i wish to increase the running viscosity, pushing it up there to the extremes to solve a simple loose bearing issue. Ive looked at the bearings, they seem perfect, i can't see any wear. I cannot remove the crankshaft to have it machined, no one has the capability of doing that here. I simply don't trust them. Commiting lubrication fraud is a more sensible idea. If youd like an idea as to whjy i think they arent capable... I visited the most respected engineering and engine rebuilding workshop in cebu, and asked them to lightly hone out a motorcylce cylinder for me. I left it with them. They had a large expensive automated machine with feed speed and pressure settings, a serious piece of equpiment. Came back and got it, and the bores were smooth as glass. I was a bit upset, but in a panic, anda bit of anger, i quickyl paid them and left thinking i would go find a cylinder hone for my drill at a mechanic. Spent the better half of a day runnign around the entire city, unabel to find a cylinder hone, other than one where the stones were worn down so much i wondered how someone would think it was sensible to use it to get to that point. I ended up going back to the workshop i had it honed at, looked at the hone, and saw 2400 grit silicone carbide sandpaper wrapped around the hone. And asked hem what they thought the purpose of honing was... TO MAKE NICE AND SMOOTH SIR I explained to them how wrong they were, and his response was, NO SIR IN PHILIPPINES THIS HOW WE LIKE IT. fucking idiots.
  16. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    yeh ive been pondering over that too, but then i think, well the engine wasnt designed to be this loose, its just its age. however not everything will be this loose, the mains are probably fine, the big one is the conrod bearings. This engine has an insanely loose conrod clearance figure, some docs state 0.1mm and some state 0.3!! look at this! that would be enough for me to wiggle it around with my hand in the sump and clearly feel it. I suspect that is where my pressure is going, but they do this for a reason, they want oil to exit and spray out the side of the journal to the piston squirters to keep cylinder wall temps down. It also allows for this is why 4ks go forever. note that our conrod journal is smaller than our main journal, so you would think the clearances would be smaller, but no, toyota are up to sumthing with this engine. Normaly, as arule of thumb you add clearance for every increase in size of journal. I guess rules of thumb shouldn't come in to play with engineering. theres obviously some reason for it. I jstu want some god damn oil to run up the conrod and out to the piston skirts through the wrist pin like its supposed to. when hot it seems to be relying on oil being sprayed from the conrod cutout piston sprayers. so i get knock and slap all at once.
  17. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    So in my experience you start raising the viscosity of your engine oil as the moving parts of your engine start to wear it stops oil burn and that awful K series rattle. However if you raise the viscosity of the oil and then keep it cooler than normal operating temperature the poor old oil pump is gonna have a hard time pushing the oil around as it is thicker and heavier than it can handle which in turn will lead to other rotating parts to starve of oil and they might prematurely fail. Just another train of thought.
  18. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    speaking of all this, has anyone got an original 4k piston laying around, i would like to know how many oil return holes there are perpendicular to the wrist pin holes, ensuring not to count the 2 pressure supply holes FROM the wrist pin.
  19. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    id love to be able to get some of this over here smuggled through the airport: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/baseoils/mineral/hpr-50-40-70-mineral At that viscosity, cold starting wouldn't be an issue, id imagine its so thick the oil would happily just hang in the bearings all day with the engine shut down, and when started up, it would be like permanent assembly lube and flow wouldn't be needed haha. These are all my potentials, and you can see why i want HPR50. The nulon stuff is an SAE lie so id steer clear. But i just can't get it, so I'm doing what i can to lower temps instead.
  20. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    what do u mean an oil cooler wont help. I'm sure thats not right. colder oil means more viscosity. yes the oil stays at 50 grade, so when cooler it is thicker. At 100 degrees it has a cSt of 18.09 at 40 degrees it has a cSt of 159.1 Just a generic thing i found on the net, but lets imagine that 20-50 purple line is my catrol GTX. if i can bring the temp down form 120 (off the chart) to 80, then ive gained some viscosity. Probably not much tho. but somewhere around 34 is better than the current ~17 cSt i guess?? maybe your point is that i wont notice the change, but i think i will, as there is no ticking until the 8th minute of driving down the dirt road. Id imagine the engien wouldve come pretty close to equilibrium for dissipating oil heat by then, so even a few degrees cooler should help. Ill be stoked if a cooler can bring it down to 90 degrees.
  21. 1980 Ke55 sedan (SOLD)

    I saw it last night in Hobart as well. Was thinking I never seen it around before.
  22. Selling a brand new set of quality (masonite) Ke35/55 coupe door cards. $50 Located in Sydney or Canberra. PM if interested.
  23. Last week
  24. Guys, Chasing a early type t50 gearbox to test out a concept (possible rwd conversion for my wife's project car) Dead gearbox is quite acceptable, but needs to be pretty much complete. Vic SE suburbs ideally. cheap as possible (freebie?) as it will prob end up in the bin in reality! Thanks toby 0437665518
  25. 1980 Ke55 sedan (SOLD)

    I saw it in Hobart last night. Must have been new owner?
  26. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    "The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature." So the oil cooler shouldn't help. You have SAE50 at idle when at hot temp, and you can't improve on that unless you can find 20W-60. How about a new oil pump instead? Can you strip yours and refurbish it? Not much you can do about the edges of the impellor, but if the endplate is groved you can grind that back smooth. Pretty desperate stuff! Better with new bearings on the worn crank, I did that on the Girls KE70 and it shut the knock up.
  27. Anyone installed an Oil Cooler

    well thick all the time wouldnt help, that would either blow a seal or exit the relief valve at startup and starve the engine of oil. but maybe there is maddness to ur theory... maybe a straight sae 30 will stay thicker when hot than a 20-50... nahhh don't wanna risk it. need to find the cheapest nastiest oil cooler to test my theory.
  28. Engineers certification?

    Start with Ian Carpenter at Kreative Enterprises in Windsor, he did mine & I found him very helpful.
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