altezzaclub

You KNOW what that manual is going to have as instructions! "To re-assemble the gearbox: Assembly is the reverse of dismantling the gearbox" Which it never is!

They are the bearings marked in red on that picture. They are a set of rollers held in a loose cage, and run directly on the shaft, not in their own housing.

Have you got this? That's the only data I have on them. They die because the layshaft bearings are un-obtainable, the rollers were a custom Toyota part apparently. The worn rollers eat into the layshaft and chew off the hardening. You can have another dismantled one for $50 +postage, its sitting in my workshop. Worked fine until I asked a gearbox shop to put in a new front seal and they stripped it, cleaned it and told me it needed new bearings.. I was not happy!

So, how far have you got? Does it start nicely yet?

4AGE is the only option, but expensive with the cult tax. 1600cc, light on fuel, light in weight, gets you a decade ahead in engine design age, but it all depends on how worn that particular motor you get is. Needs a T50 gearbox, the KE70 should have come out with one right from the start. You could hunt for a 5K, but they're a lot harder to find and a decade of design earlier. Even more-so for T motors, never so many on the road. In the back of my mind I have Mazda MX5 for when the 4AGE gives up, there just isn't any other RWD 4cyl with a good gearbox anywhere. They can be 1.6L 1.8 or 2L, all in RWD. If you want to go to 2L, the Altezza 3SGE is popular, but its a very tall motor.

"I take one new wire from under dash red wire point to +ve coil...if can start up means confirm that wire is problem maker. " Yes, that's it. Once you are chasing that red wire you will probably find the problem quite easily.

What you might find is someone has joined the red wire to the black/orange already, probably under the dash, and their connection has broken or is loose.

"Means when I measure IG2 wire will 12v or test light will on and when crank ST2 will light on or both on light in test light when I crank?" I think only one at a time originally, so they had to 'swap' when you let the key come back after cranking. Now with a 12V coil you can have both together. "Brown wire means AM2 right? Connect to IG2?" AM2 is the name of the part of the ignition barrel, it is the circuit and contacts that joins the brown wire to the black/orange wire inside the barrel, so all one wire really. "If in the coil side I couldn't find out ST2 red wire means can I check below dash ignition key set that wire with voltage has means can I direct bring that wire connect to +ve on coil & try start up?" Yes, you want the ST2 and IG2 points both to go to coil +ve, whether in the red wire and the black/orange wire together or just one of them. The dash loom that your new ignition set plugs into should have the right colours if it is original, 5wires of blue/red, black/yellow, red,black/white and black/orange, all in the dash plug. So long as 12V goes down the red & black/orange and gets to the coil +ve you should be fine. Let us know what is on the coil positive right now, and if the red and black/orange wires are there. There are a few wires coming out of the engine bay wall by the coil.

Mate, its had it... beyond repair... I'll take it off your hands... Was that carb on a running car just before you bought it, or lying around for a year?? I've never fitted the Weber down-draught, but its still just a carb. If it has been sitting then muck builds up in the jets and in the drillings connecting them all through the carb. So strip it and clean it, or have someone do it. I hose it all out with petrol from a syringe, but a can of carb cleaner will do it. A rebuild kit would be good for pumps and gaskets if you can find one. Write down the numbers stamped on every jet and hunt the internet for the sizes that people use. I've seen them but can't remember them. So long as yours are similar it should run, but if someone has already changed them and got it wrong, you might be in trouble. Get it all cleaned inside and back together and see how it goes. Rev hang can be from a bent throttle shaft or similar, so make sure while its on the bench that it gives a clean 'click' when you close the throttle. Its common on DCOE Webers, but shouldn't be for DDs. 2000-3500 is when the idle circuit gives up and hands it all over to the main circuit, so see if that improves once its cleaned. Here's a helpful pic for you... https://ozgemini.com/forums/tech/viewtopic.php?t=12441

"But the red wire (ST2) in my car don't have before this..where I need to find out? " You need to find it in your new ignition set. Two wires in that loom carries 12V into the ignition switch, and the other wires carry 12V out- A-to the accessories that work when you turn the ignition on, the ACC wire. Blue/red wire on the car. B-to the fuses that work everything with ignition lights on, the IG1. Black/yellow wire on car. C-to the coil +ve, the ST2. The red wire. D-to the starter motor solenoid, ST1. The black/white wire. E-to the ballast resistor, IG2. The black/orange wire. Originally the car had power going into that ignition switch from the white wire, AM1, and one part of it from a brown wire AM2. That makes seven wires going to the key, which is what your new ignition set has. They might not be exactly right for your car, Japanese, Australian, European or SE Asian could be all slightly different, but your new ignition set does the same job. So if it plugs into the wiring under your dash with the colours listed above, make sure power comes out from ST2 and IG2. Then make sure it gets out to the coil positive, one as you have the key turned on and the other as you crank it. You'll have to disconnect the coil positive and measure the wire voltage as you turn the key on and as you crank it. The brown wire may have a burned out fusible link at the battery, so check that first. I have had bad connections in those links before, sometimes work, sometimes die.

"I changed coil mitsubishi Japan 12v." OK, if you fitted a 12V coil you don't need a ballast resistor. That diagram above is for a Petronix wire, and its not how Toyota did it, but it doesn't matter for you. "Since 1year all good no worries suddenly this things happened" The system you have on the car was working, so all the components fit together properly, but something has worn out. The car runs OK when its running, so coil & distributor are fine. It doesn't start properly so the problem is most likely in the key. Find that problem! Check out the key operation like Banjo said, take the plug off the key wiring and see that you get power going to the coil on both "ignition" and "start" positions. Maybe the new key wiring has burnt out. Make sure you know which wire has 12V power when you have the key in "run" position, and which has 12V power in the "start" position. If you have a test light with a needle probe you can push it into the plug while its in the car and it will light up if there's 12V. If not, I use a multimeter and unplug the key wiring so I can read ohms on each wire. Either way, you need to understand how power flows through that ignition set above. You need it wired like this- The black and orange wire (IG2) that went to the ballast now needs to be connected straight to the coil positive. That gives power when you are driving, and I'm sure that's how they changed your wiring when you fitted the new 12V coil. The red wire (ST2) powers the coil when you are cranking the engine. That also needs to go to the coil positive, like it always has. So make sure the cranking and running wires are joined and go to the coil positive. If the new wiring contacts have burnt out you should fit a relay beside the coil. This means the key barrel wiring carries less power and won't burn in the future. Cheers

"or the ignition barrel, has gone faulty." Yeah, could be. The wiring diagram shows the wire to the coil on cranking to be separate to the wire to the starter solenoid. If the contacts in the ignition barrel are burnt out for the coil wire, it will crank and crank but not start until the key is released and it catches on the 'run' wiring. The next time that contact might work and it starts perfectly. "My car using electronic distributor not contact point version..so do I still need use ballast resistor?" Check if that Bosch coil you bought is a GT40 or a GT40R. The R means it needs a ballast resistor, the other Bosch GT40 doesn't. Did the moving baseplate of the dizzy move easily and look lubricated when you had the dizzy apart? They do get seized up over the years and stop the ignition advancing correctly.

KE70s run a 9V coil, so the ballast resistor cuts the voltage back to 9V when the car is driving. However when starting there is extra wiring to by-pass the ballast resistor and feed full power straight to the coil. With the starter motor working the battery voltage drops to 9V, so the coil works perfectly. As you let the ignition key go back the wiring goes through the ballast resistor again to run the motor at 9V. 12V will burn the coil out eventually. You might have a fault in the wire that was connected to the ballast resistor and now that has been deleted, who knows where that wire goes? The red wire goes from the ignition key 'Start' position to the coil positive. The 'run' wire is the black/orange one that goes to the ballast resistor. Follow those two wires and let us know what you find.

Start a new thread with a couple of photos Rory, there's a lot you can do with these cars. Are the rims & lowering just for cool looks or are you after handling performance? Are you running coilovers on the rear shock mounts?

A year or two back I bought a new fuel sender unit off Ebay, but the thing only reads zero to half a tank, even when filled up. Actually, when I got it the reading was half to full, so it ran out of fuel at half, I could move its zero point OK, but the range is too small. I figure its for the flat tank in a wagon, so if you get a sedan one by accident we can swap!