altezzaclub

Yes, hundreds of millions of photos around the web, so much knowledge and education gone, or now held hostage by them. Most of it will never be seen again, not many people have the $400 a month or the time to re-write their life.

No reason why not- Rob on here had one in his Dyna, went OK but pretty industrial. Peak power is at 4400rpm, which tells you what its designed for.. Plenty of torque though. They were used in the early Great Walls, so you can buy things like new rubber spark plug tube O-rings for the 4K from a Great Wall agent. You'd need a 3.7 or a 3.9 diff!

Ah true, I'd forgotten about the 4-cyl BMW motors, I thought everything was a 6-cyl now. The M42+gearbox would be a good starter, although I don't know how the prices compare.

Probably, there is one on the wiring diagram I posted up. Auto only, the manuals don't have one. Have you tried the switch on the bench with a test light or meter?? That would tel you the switch works (or not!) Then try it in the car with a meter to see if it has a circuit in neutral gear, then finally look for 12V at the switch in the car.

Not overwhelming, it just took a picture of a circle with a cross in it on the back of an envelope... Have you ever seen a K head Dan?? or shall we send one over for you to play with?? I think it would be an amazing educaton for all of us on here!

All sadly true, what Dave just said... If you're willing to look outside Toyota, then I reckon Maxda M5 is the way to go. Buy the newest motor & 6-speed you can afford and make it fit. They are sports-performance, not outright powerhouses, but that's all you need in a lightweight tin can like a KE70. In a FWD world it is getting harder and harder to find new motors in RWD format, or gearboxes that fit. With such a light body you need to keep weight down everywhere, or the handling will turn to shit. I'd go for the Ford Eco-boost if it wsa possible, or any current 1.3L turbo that weighs nothing and puts out amazing grunt.

Interesting how it drops the two small aperture volumes. Are they just the margin of error? I assume if the velocity went up then they would perform better than stock too.

Aha! That's a win! Clean it up an see if it can be repaired. Is the problem in the wires on in the switch inside?? Does it come apart?

Welcome in- I did mine last year and found stacks on here and Toymods about how to do it. Buying it.. I don't know of anywhere in particular, they come up for sale on AE86DC and Toymods every now and then, and importers have them in stock. Do you have the engine crossmember to suit one?? Out of an AE71. That and a hydraulic clutch. Hopefully the gearbox comes with a crossmember. What do you reckon the budget is? -------------------------- Two here, FWD and RWD versions. He got stuck at the hard part, the wiring and plumbing, so he's given up. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hackham/engine-engine-parts-transmission/1981-toyota-corolla-ke38-wagon-4age-4k/1152690831 Buy the KE38, finish the conversion in your KE70 and put your motor in the little wagon & sell it...

Jeez Banjo, how can you see anything in there! Omar, having 12V at the points arm is a definate step forward. Now we know the signal gets to the coil. The coil might be dud, or the condensor inside the dizzy might be. The condensor charges up when the points are open and discharges when closed, and a leaky condensor gives a lousy spark. If you can bridge the wires that are on the neutral switch it eliminates that from the equation. The car will start in any gear while you test it.

Are you going to do the valves as well?? Just put the stem in a drill press or a drill in a vice and use kero or WD40 and wet'n dry sandpaper. Start off with 180 and end up with 400grit, so they are polished clean. The air has to flow over that surface, critical at low valve openings. Same with the valve seats, they should blend seamlessly into the throats, and an hour with a flapper wheel will sort it out. Maybe one day Dan will do a 4K head in oldeskewltoy and we can see what really can be done! ----------------- Yeah, 50thou would be the 1mm reading. You can see how much duration is not really used, about 50deg. The last 44deg on the inlet is the important part, just when it closes as the piston is heading up on compression. If you rotate the cam to move that it gives the greatest effect- early gives more power low down, late moves the power up the rev range as it allows reversion at slower speeds. With a cam that big an adjustable wheel would be handy, I'm only using a 275deg and never worried about it.

Nah, just take it easy with the spring compressors. I find air-driven rattle guns a bit to quick & violent for something with over a ton of force compressed within it. Rear is quick 'n easy, car chassis on stands, jack under diff, wheels off, undo the shocks & lower the diff. The springs will lever out as the rubber brake line reaches its limit, so don't stretch the line. Check for the rubber seats that the spring rides in, top & bottom, and obviously the bottom of the spring has an orientation. Front is more of a job, car up, wheels off, calipers off and wired up so they don't hang on the lines, LCAs undone, two turret bolts off and the third one very loose. A crowbar to lever the LCA down and the strut pops outwards, held up by that last strut nut. Then fit the spring compressors and do them up until the spring is just coming loose. Rattle-gun the shock nut off the top and the spring lifts off. You have to take the spring compressors off that old spring and compress the new spring. Put the strut in a vice to hold it while you use a plumbers wrench to undo the giant nut holding the shock in, and if they're original the tube is full of oil. Clean the strut tube and put in the new shock, put the big nut back on and make sure the shock is held tight, then the spring and the steering stuff at the top. The shock nut goes on and the spring compressors come off. You should be able to stand on the LCA to fight the strut back onto the car, but its all a one-man job. Don't put any gripping tool on the shock shaft, you don't want any marks on there.

It looks like those two wires supply the illumination bulb under the cover. So if you don't have a switch there, what stops a KE30 being started in "drive"?? There must be a cutout on the gearbox under the floor. Here is the KE70 setup. The switch outlined in blue is the auto gear-lever lockout, the dotted line by-passing it is the manual circuit. The auto has a relay to carry the current, so starter solenoid power (green dots) goes from one of the battery fusible links through the starter relay and off to the solenoid. The relay control (blue dots) is via the ignition 'ST' position on the key and the neutral switch. That is a black & white wire leaving the ignition key setup. I don't know if a KE30 has a ballast resistor, it might have been too early. The KE70s run a 9V coil & a resistor. On the diagram you can see the ignition power at the key from ST for starting and also IG for running. The blue dots for starting by-pass the ballast resistor to feed power directly into the coil, whereas when you let the ignition key back to the 'run' position the power goes through the ballast to reduce it to 9V to suit the coil. They are a red wire for starting and a black-orange for run. You might only have one. You could pull the wire junction apart at the ignition key barrel and feed 12V into the white wire going in. Then check what coloured wire does what as it comes back out. If you have a black/white, see if it goes live when you turn to 'start'. If there is a red, see if it goes live for 'ignition'. That would eliminate problems in the key barrel. Either way, if the points are open and the key is on, you should get a voltage at the points arm. If you do, then you just jump 12V into the starter solenoid wire to crank it and see if it runs. Then chase the wiring problem. The solenoid cutout problem means lying under the car and finding that switch. If you want this wiring diagram it is here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 It might not be a KE30 one, but its better then nothing.

Theory is that you get this done anyway, so the new cam has new surfaces to run on. Cam grinding company should do it, $70 over here. I think there is a 'grade' of polish that they prefer these days, fine but not dead smooth. Chat to Oldskewltoy about that too...

Yeah, the electronic dizzys are meant to have the modern dry coils, although I've run my 5K dizzy on the stock 4K coil for years so far.