altezzaclub

Add a leaf from another set of springs. You'll have to try it to find out which leaf does what you want it to, that will make it stiffer. You can mount a leaf upside-down so its curve pushes against the other leaves and makes the spring flatter rather than curve upwards. This lowers the car and means you don't need such a big lowering block. This is half a leaf mounted upside-down-

" size 13 x 7 offset" That's surprising, these are 14x6 with 185/60 tyres and they look smaller than those on the yellow Corolla above.

Some early 2000s FWD Corolla by now. They decrease in value for 20years, then the remaining ones go back up. Look on Gumtree, not Carsales.com... $2000 should get you one. https://www.gumtree.com.au/web/listing/cars-vans-utes/1334628803 RWD?? Well, KE70s goes for $10k and upwards... None on Gumtree today, and never on Carsales. Best RWD buy would be Coronas. still immaculate ones around town driven by old farts..

Anything you can find at a wrecker, or the Australian company that makes fans, Davies Craig. I used a Mazda 121 fan I ran the wiring into the original relay box by the battery and used an empty relay spot. Its controlled both manually and by a temperature switch. That's all in The Girls KE70 story somewhere.

No, if you drill the larger diameter one you will find its only a few mm thick, nowhere near enough to carry a thread. Clean them both up with a wire brush and dig out all the corrosion holes and see how bad each one is. It wouldn't be the first time I've filled the craters with body filler and had them last for years. The bigger one is the ideal one obviously, but any temp fitting will have to go in the head, where the alloy is thicker. The best idea would be to buy an in-hose fitting, I've used them for years. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225253674996?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1Im-dDrB5R7C86KkC0s-uAw42&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=225253674996&targetid=2367800370202&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1000339&poi=&campaignid=21776442415&mkgroupid=173963205248&rlsatarget=pla-2367800370202&abcId=10047386&merchantid=7667992&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=21776442415&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsPrt9KeWjgMV9yutBh11xhHNEAQYASABEgLGPPD_BwE

That's right. You don't get a high beam blue light with the system like that, unless they've improved it, but I remember I had the blue light working if I put a bulb in the other headlight plug and let it hang there. The original wiring diagram had a resistor in that line to make the blue light work. These days I have a separate little LED on the dash that I wired into the circuit and it comes on with high beam.

That link is now here I think, the change from KE70.com to Rollaclub caused it- Try one of these kits, cheap enough and easy to do for what you gain, its what I now have on mine. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144043979533?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1vZn3r5k9SwOXM01GB5d-7Q4&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144043979533&targetid=2370046502538&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071791&poi=&campaignid=21766134162&mkgroupid=175112620264&rlsatarget=pla-2370046502538&abcId=10047381&merchantid=115487535&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=21766134162&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsafEhaOHjgMVgx-tBh2EejSgEAQYBCABEgIiHfD_BwE The relays pick up off one headlight plug, that's the black male-pin plug in the image, that goes into a one stock headlight plug.

That oil pump has seen some rubbish go through it! You should have a flat sheet of half inch thick steel in the workshop, maybe the size of an A5 sheet of paper. You wrap a sheet of 180grit wet 'n dry sandpaper on it, spray some CRC on it and wipe that oil pump base around and around until the grooves mostly vanish. If you're keen, take the pump off you can do the bottom of it and do the impeller too. Then clean them all really well! Anything that needs to be flat can be sanded, like a thermostat housing that has had the aluminium pulled out of shape by some guy with big spanners. There will be a gap listed in the 4K manual for the oil pump rotor tip clearance. A thou or two I expect.

Do it now! Otherwise the motor will run like a dream for years and leave oil patches every time you park! Does it still have the 4 studs under the crank pulley? Replace those with bolts, in case you ever want to remove the sump in the car...say, because you didn't fix the plug thread now and you're tired of oil leaks! Its difficult but not impossible to get the sump off without pulling the motor out, but only if those studs are gone. Only you can know if there is enough thread strength to hold the plug in, but it should take 15ft.lbs I'd say, a solid but not hard tighten with one hand on a ring-open spanner.

I'd get some CRC 556, WD40 or Q20, whatever and squirt some in with the extension tube on the valve. If you spray the far wall it will run around the rings and coat the cylinder walls as you turn it over. Only needs it once every few months. The 90% kero spreads the oils around and then slowly evaporates, and it will burn out when you start the motor.

"What do we think about a beams 3sge swap? " Its been done plenty of times, but the Beams is a very tall motor so either a lot of work to get it low, or a hole in the bonnet. I'm working on putting one in an AE86 Sprinter for a guy right now, a gravel rally car, and it has a Kiwi-made shallow sump and custom mounts. A pair of brothers who rally a KE70 used the earlier Gen 4 version for exactly this reason. Anyway, that's a long way down the track, you can make that 5K go fast enough to get into trouble! If you're screwing a tapered brass fitting into an aluminium housing use some sealant and only go just above hand-tight. Those t'stat housing are fairly thin to start with and often corroded even thinner. I pulled the thread out of a 4AGE one and found it was made of unobtanium, but luckily could extend the thread further in.

Love it! Fenix, Superlites.. Money doesn't go far with those names! You know where you'll end up eventually! https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uU0uBJp09lc Wonderful little cars, garage 4AGE helped make them famous https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX4CAVEsdVA ..and the Europeans love them in rallying and hillclimbs. https://www.facebook.com/VHTRacing/videos/248299146008069/?s=100000342565571&v=e&sfns=mo ..and if you want to stick with a K motor but make it go faster you will need- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ have fun!

You are right! I didn't look at the fine detail, although now I vaguely remember something about it from a decade or two back.

"and it goes like a cut cat." Toss the downdraft and get a single 40DCOE Weber on there! If not bike quads! I don't suppose you measured the bore when you had the head off, or took a picture of the pistons? Dished pistons sound like 5K too, my 4K looked like this- That was digging the rusted gunk out from around #3 & 4 cylinders, a major reason they overheat and blow gaskets. I thought that t'stat top would rotate easily. it certainly does in Photoshop! Sounds like a fun build, any idea on the cam that's in it?

Why don't you just turn the outlet around 180deg? Aren't they symmetrical?