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altezzaclub last won the day on October 18

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About altezzaclub

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  1. A fine example of an original KE70 XX, although I have fitted twin SU carbs and a cam. My wife's daily for years, she now has an X-Trail and I have my own KE70, so the gold one must go. Rego'd to next June, fully reliable with electronic ignition. Can be seen anywhere from Orange, where it lives, to Armidale, where I drive often. Can drive to Lithgow to meet Sydneysiders, or come and enjoy Orange for the day! The interior is excellent, an uncracked dash, seats un-torn, I'll get more photos tomorrow. The dent in the bonnet is where a tree branch fell off the truck in front of the previous owner, otherwise it just has minor dings from incompetent drivers over the years. Story is here- Price is $3300.
  2. The "S" terminal on the alty needs a 12V reference, so you can run a separate wire to the S terminal, or hook it into the IG wire so turning on the key does both. You might have it wired so when you take a battery terminal off the alty loses that 12V to S, and it stops charging so the motor stops working. I can't see how, but its possible. I've never taken the battery terminal off when the 4AGE is running, maybe mine does the same...
  3. You are right, it would do that! I usually loop the signal wire... Very good out loud thinking!
  4. Well its definitely charging. Can you tell us which wire you used to feed power into the push-start button?? Here's the circuit I'd use. You need 12V power when the ignition is on to feed the button, so jump into the Black/Yellow wire and feed the button from that. From the button to the starter just use the B/W as factory. Any ignition powered circuit will do it, and as it only fires a relay you could use the B/Y after the 10A engine fuse, that would be safer. Either way I can't see how fitting the button would affect the charging.... I can't imagine what is making it die, maybe its a bad connection in the White wire where it joins the battery terminal. I wonder if someone changed the factory setup around the fusible links.. So the alty connects to the battery but not through the fusible link, although even then the alty charge wire should stay on the terminal when you lift it off..
  5. Actually- how long has you owned the car and driven it?? Was everything working fine for the last 6months??
  6. How do you know its charging?? Put a multimeter across the terminals and read the voltage. Usually 11.5 to 12V, then start it and see. It should read about 13 to 13.5volts with a few revs on the engine. There must be a wiring fault if the alty DOES work but the motor stops when you take a terminal off. The charge from the alty isn't getting to the ECU, a strange problem.
  7. Maybe... taking the fuses & relays out and in usually scrapes the dirt away so they still get a good contact. You could check with a $10 multimeter and a spade connector to push into the slots. The top left one looks definitely rusty, can you sandpaper or scrape it clean? Can you get another one to try?
  8. here's a wiring diagram https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 You will have to check everything electrical and see what works and what doesn't, then see which wire powers all those that don't work. You can see the wipers and turn are fed off the BY wire, maybe that's the problem. Does the rear defog work?? That's on the same circuit. There will be a short circuit through a broken wire somewhere, that's what usually causes the fuse to blow.
  9. Whaatt!! Get him some ol' rattletrap and make him work to buy his own in a few years! My daughter has the only new car around her, but she saved up for a few years to get it. A giant step up from a KE70. The son started with a mid-80s Pulsar and it needed a gearbox straight away. Now he really appreciates his new Fiesta. At least neither of them wrote off their first cars.
  10. haha! Well done! We'll see what the next problem is!
  11. I hope he's right, the missus bought one while I was away! The colour she didn't want, (black) the Km were twice what she wanted, (220,000) it was a model older than she had me look for (T30 instead of T31)... but she was determined to buy it from an over-priced dealer so she didn't get ripped off!😩 Sounds like there's a can half-full of stones attached to the fan when she starts it.. I don't want to know!
  12. Well, if you really want to keep it, it will teach you a lot. First, get a fully charged battery. Connect up one lead and tap the other one on its terminal. If it sparks, find out what is drawing current. You could use a 12v bulb to test it, or a multimeter if it doesn't spark or is a very small spark. Get it so it doesn't use power just sitting there. If nothing is drawing power, start checking everything one at a time and make each circuit work. check all the wiring and tidy up any wires that have been fked around with. Shouldn't take you more than a month to fix...
  13. You're a bit late to the party I'm afraid, the guys who did those conversions have moved on. I've done a 4AGE but I can't tell you what you need for a 3SGE or a 20valve. To get a J160 box into a KE70 we lowered the engine mounts and made the radiator front panel removable, and did beat the bell housing out a little. That's on a 4AGE with SamQ's remote shifter & water blanking parts for the back of the head. We made custom gearbox mounts. Most of it is in here- The 3SGE is a much taller engine, I obviously have one in my Altezza, and it would be a struggle to fit one in complete. I figure most guys who do it strip all the ancillaries off like power steering, aircon and the big engine mounts. That is all for the next rally car... Don't forget your 4AGE motors and the T50 boxes are all getting old and worn by now.
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