altezzaclub

Woo! Nice! I was expecting something rougher than that! So it can be a project car that is off the road being worked on while you do an engine upgrade. In 15years your first-born can drive it!!

Would you like to start a new topic with this question, it would be easier to find in the future. Where do you live and what engines are around?? There is the 2L Toyota Y engine (114lb.ft) that would fit, at least is has a square bore and stroke, or the long stroke 7K (103lb.ft) as you said. An oversquare 18R would be another contender, (107lb.ft) in fact you could fit almost anything with a bit of work.. How big is your budget and how much experience do you have in swapping motors? Are you sure the 5K is in good condition? Do a compression test and check the points and timing to see how well it is performing. It is definitely a bit small for a commercial vehicle.

Depends on how long you're going to keep the car... The old alty will wear out & a new bracket is not that hard a job. Its probably worth mailing a bracket from Aussie, although if you can easily return the alty & get your cash back you might as well. Where abouts are you?? Did you buy the car? Is it going to be your daily driver or do you drive something else? Stick up some photos..

Yeah, looks like there is a wire missing off the coil +ve. The ballast resistor drops 12V down to 9V for the 9V coil, but it gets bypassed when you're cranking. So the +ve coil side has two wires, one straight from the key for cranking, and one from the ballast resistor for running. Then the -ve goes to the dizzy, and to the tacho if you have one, and often to a capacitor to get rid of radio noise. Get a test light or a multimeter and find the wire that is +12v when the key is on cranking, it should be red, that goes on coil +ve. Check that the wire from the ballast to coil +ve is live when the key is just on ignition. Check where the coil -ve wires go to. You only need the one going to the distributor really. With the points open and the key on ignition, you should get a spark across the points with a screwdriver. There are wiring diagrams on here. See how you go... Oh, that purple wire just goes around the engine bay to the other side I think.

[sigh].. I've had these rims lying around for years, in great condition but I'd never worried about moving to 14". Anyway, I bought a set of Toyo Nanoenergy 3 tyres last week, had them fitted, jacked the car up... and although the rims go on the hubs the wheelnut shanks won't go in the holes! So more measuring and I find they fit KE10s or KE20s, but not KE70s. $420 the lot, excellent condition rims and tyres that have not been on a car! or $200 for the rims and I'll use the tyres on other wheels. I can deliver to Lithgow, or out to Wellington, or anywhere up to Armidale. Otherwise I can freight, but unless these rims are rare I can't see that being economic.

Start a new topic & give us some details... Have you put a multimeter between the starter body and the battery negative?? The resistance should be under 1ohm.

Well, 2019 is not going to be a good year for freedom, especially in NZ! The laws banning guns have been sitting around on Govt books since the '90s, and one Aussie visitor is all they needed to whip them out and ram them through. Even more important are the new laws banning free speech, as guns will get replaced by other weapons eventually, but speech won't. It always starts with banning holocaust denial, then insulting Muslims, then denying womanhood victim status and as always it will end up banning criticism of the Govt. Keep your eyes open...

Si is the man- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/10940-sis-5kte-ke55/?tab=comments#comment-155719 Stevejw did it too- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73977-does-anyone-have-a-4k-c-turbo-manifold/?tab=comments#comment-714381 ..and 4KT https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59642-4k-c-carbie-turbo/page/6/ Just use the search button.. and have a read of this so you can add your experiences afterwards.. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/

I'd be onto that thanks Stu, I'll shoot you a PM.

Well, I finally got down to the wrecker and took a look around for plug leads. The Nissan lead had been doing well, but I found a set on a Mazda Astina that fitted fine. Put this in your notebook, because the Takumi tax on these things is pretty steep!! Still trying to sort wheels, although I've bought the 14" tyres. Just can't decide which set of alloys for the Datsun 1600 & which for the KE. Wheelnuts and washers for both sets are a pain, they're 17mm shanks while everything these days is 18.3mm.

They're the same K motors so I'd be amazed if it didn't work. Manual and auto are the same, the wiring inside is the difference with the auto lockout, you will have all of that and it won't make a difference. How come it hasn't got a starter? or has it got one that doesn't work? None at the wreckers locally?? There are 3 or 4 here in Orange.

Well, its so clean its worth putting some money into so you get a car you love and keep it for 20years.. I'm sure no-one would have thought KE70s would be worth keeping for 40years, but they are quite sought-after now. Save up more cash and do the 4AGE conversion, at least you can do that yourself. If the exhaust rusts out in the meantime put a larger one on with sports mufflers, and if you're really keen find a free-flow aircleaner setup, but anything more would be costly for not enough gain. I couldn't find any of the major cam grinders in Aussie advertising 4AF cam profiles, so that might be a sticking point for internal mods straight away.

Ah! Of course, I was thinking of the 4AC in the AE71, you've got 15KW over that single-cam unit already. Well, any time people have suggested doing up a 4AF everyone says "drop in a 4AG"... I expect that is worldwide so no-one has spent much time in developing the 4AFs. Dang! Reading Wikipedia I can see why! " The 4A-FE is different from the 4A-GE in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles[who?] to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. This engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but compromises power. " You're really on the back foot with the carb version, 71KW and 127NM, even the injected F had a big jump to 84KW & 145NM. So it looks like a good porting job would be a start, you might ask odelskewoltoy his thoughts, he's a head porter in the USA. He's on here as well. https://www.club4ag.com//forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=134326#p134326 If the heads are cheap, buy a 2nd one from a wrecker and expect to ruin one in your education. I have a feeling your whole budget could vanish into having it done commercially, but ask a few shops anyway. it looks like it will be a battle to get it to rev high, so aim for torque. Carbs... can you fit twin DCOE Webers in there?? a single DCOE? Quad bike carbs?? You'll probably need to make your own inlet manifold for them either way. Cams that aim for lift more than massive duration, an exhaust of medium size rather than large.. Lots of reading to do- https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/356232-4af-engine-modifications-idea-problems.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/381051-modified-corolla-1600-16v-4af-carb-engine.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/136189-4af-mods.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/102365-cheap-mods-4af.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/29170-4af-performance-tuning.html Well well, look at this! https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/64392-4AF-head-prep-and-porting?s=95332339e6fe1c856317a743897c4d62 Plenty to get you thinking-

Well, straight off the diagram they should be- Black/Orange- well, B/R is +12V from engine fuse, maybe B/O is it. You don't have a B/R. Yellow, Yellow, Check & make sure one is not yellow/white, the charge light. Yellow/Black- oil pressure light Red/White- handbrake light Red- hazard relay (Europe) Yellow/Blue- fuel sender light Black- Tacho feed ------------------------------------------------- Green/Yellow- indicators right Yellow/Red- Fuel sender unit Green/Black- indicators left White/Black- Earth White/Black- Earth Yellow/Green- water temp Red/Blue- +12V in from gauges fuse White/Black- Earth --------------------------------------------- Blue/White- choke switch (Europe) Green- +12V for lights but "not headlights" ----------------------------------------------- Red/Green- Clock Pink/Blue- Cig lighter You should put a couple of extension wires on a multimeter and put one probe in these plugs, then see if it comes out where it is meant to under the bonnet or around the car. That's the only way to confirm it.

De nada- Todos necesitamos ayudar con autos viejos.