altezzaclub

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altezzaclub last won the day on December 10 2017

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About altezzaclub

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  1. At The Wreckers In Orange, April '13

    Probably, but easier to come up and get it yourself. Even more, I wouldn't get a 2nd-hand one, they are difficult to get out without cracking and usually covered in stone chips. How much is a new one?? LOL- I looked it up.. $120.. don't even think 2nd-hand! http://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/shop/toyota-corolla-ke30-4dr-sedan-1974-gt981-front-windscreen--7379
  2. Ke30 club car

    ..and about time! This having a family is bad for the motorsport! 'Dried mud' is the perfect description, I've never seen paint go so bad. Still, it will clean up and you can rattlecan a few panels to make it look great again. We bent up a water-pipe mockup of the rally car cage, bought the tubing for it and had an exhaust shop copy the mockup. Then we cut & tacked it all together and made the mounts before taking it back to the shop and having them weld it all up. It was complicated because we wanted a bolt-in, so we can swap it from car to car. That made a very economical cage, and a half-cage woud be cheaper again. There must be a pipe bender around somewhere that we can borrow for a day..
  3. Rusted chassis ke36

    Depends how well you knew the panelbeater.. he'll want it up on stands with no crossmember or suspension, and all the paint stripped back to bare steel. That makes transporting it difficult, so its easiest to get a panelbeater to drop in one weekend with a MIG. Even Bruce at On The Spot mobile welding could come and do it. they'll all be $100+ an hour unless you can talk them down. Then again, if you can find a MIG or even a stick welder we can do it ourselves, same as the Celcia rally car. When the race car is out of the shed put the wagon in and strip it, and we will see what steel we need to buy. The guy I built the verandah for bought a new stick welder for that job, we could borrow that.
  4. 3y distributor with module inside

    I haven't seen inside a 3Y dizzy, but does it have two modules inside like a 5K?? The electronic ones I have seen have no condensor, just a pickup module and an igniter module.
  5. 20R thoughts?

    The studs are just pressed into the hub, so you put a wheel nut on a stud until the thread is just below the top and smack it with a hammer to beat it back out. Then you can try whatever rims you're going to use on the axle hub to see if they will fit at the center. Then you'll have to drill and tap the hub to fit the 4-stud pattern, and at that stage you might decide to run 5-stud wheels. Of course it is just as hard to drill the front hubs with 5 new holes... and they should be a splined hole for the wheels studs, so maybe its easier to find a Celica 4-stud diff, or axles at least if they will fit the Hilux diff. I use a Celica T-series, as does Steve and also the rally car. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/
  6. 20R thoughts?

    So 3K, about 60bhp & 90lb.ft of torque. 20R about 90bhp & 120lb.ft of torque. Both at 1200rpm or more lower. So a lot more grunt and lower rpm, if you cruise a 3K at 3800 to do 100kph, then 2800 would do for the 20R. The 5speed would be great, and 14" rims, then a diff ratio down under 4.0. The RA40 Celicas here have a 3.9 diff. You can still buy new crown wheels & pinion gears, although a wrecker would be much cheaper. You'd need a diff shop to install it into the diff & set it up if its a BorgWarner, the T-series is a self-contained package you can do yourself. Check this- http://rsmotorsport.com.au/files/Identifying_Toyota_Hilux.pdf
  7. 20R thoughts?

    Yeah, why not..? At your stage the condition of the engine is more important than anything else, a rebuild of any of them would cost more than the conversion, be it 3K or 4K or 20R or one of the 3Y motors. So make sure it has good compression & didn't burn oil, or rethink it all again. Dave's right about the custom mounts and mods, but if you can do them yourself you will end up with a fine, reliable car. Steve had a pair of RT80 Coronas with the 12R engines and we sorted them out and drove them 1000km to Sydney & back. The 20R in a KE30 will pull a lower diff ratio than the ute will have, so you will have it over-revving for what it is doing all the time. It will probably be a 4.3 or 4.1, and you could easily haul a 3.9 or 3.7 in a ittle car, especially with small wheels. Also, its pretty heavy gear for a KE30, so the shocks will need to be good to control that diff banging around in the back and the extra weight in the nose.
  8. yeah, that's a good handle...

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  9. The Golden Hoonicorn-

    Well, a year on and its running around town as a daily for my wife. No problems with it, but with The Girls KE70 having the 4AGE I just don't get to use the Hoonicorn for trips. Our garage is part of the house, and with a Southery breeze the petrol smell comes inside after anyone's been out and about. I can't see any trace of fuel leaking from the SUs, so I assume the residual heat is boiling of fuel in the bowls, and it comes out of the air cleaner. I don't notice it really, but the wife certainly does! Maybe this will finally get a set of quads fitted and hopefully they won't do it. We'll see what the year brings...
  10. The Girl's Ke70

    Yep, all works well, although sometime I'll move the fan relay power onto permanent 12V if I can, that will keep it running until its cooled down when the motor is turned off. I took it to Melbourne about Dec 23rd, and seeing it was already hot coming back from Walcha the week before The Girl & I bought $30 of Repco's window tint and did a terrible job of fitting that. Not to worry, it was noticeably cooler going to Melbourne, the difference with the sun at 45deg coming in the screen and not getting in the window was surprising. That was 800+Km, then it was off to Adelaide for the New Year, another 800Km odd, and a week later it was back to Orange, about 1200Km. Just LOVING it! New front shocks due this week, Monroes off Ebay, just to see how it feels.
  11. How To Build A Rally Car

    Well, about the end of last year we finally got all the shit out of the shed! Then the timber mezzanines were taken off in tractor-sized sections and stacked outside. That left the steel posts... We started with cutting them off and chopping the concrete down 100mm with a jackhammer.. (nah, he wasn't, that was my job!) Soon we found we could haul most of them out with a tractor- and stack them outside! we filled in the holes and did a lot of cut 'n fill to level the ground, and then compacted it- Which is where I left it for Xmas.... The concreteman dropped a load of crusher dust there and I hear Steve has spread it inside and levelled it. Now we are just waiting for the concreteman to find a gap in his work to get the slab poured. Slowly slowly, its all getting there! 3-phase wiring throughout after the concrete, paint the floor, re-make the mezzanine about 6mx3m and 2.3M high, get a two-post hoist in.. At least the wrist brace has gone and Steve can't use "but I'm a cripple" as an excuse anymore!
  12. Do a google on spring rates and learn about the factors that are important. Here's an online rate calculator https://www.thespringstore.com/spring-calculator.html or here- http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm Then you can tell which is a stiffer spring. If its too technical, simply push the spring down onto a bathroom scale while someone else holds a tape and measures how much it has compressed. Rear springs are generally softer than fronts, but you're biggest problem will be the diameters and getting anything to fit. The wire diameter is important, & a mm change in that is a lot. The spring diameter is pretty well fixed by the top plate and the spring base on the strut. The length is variable with a grinder... Don't panic about cutting a couple of coils off the stock spring, the calculator will tell you how much stiffer they get, and you don't want to move away from the stock rate by very much anyway. Cutting a coil off will lower the car, but as the spring gets stiffer by doing this it is progressively less effective. Changing springs may or may not lower it as it all depends on their rates. The coils are largely just for ride height with the shocks stopping the suspension from bottoming out, and if you lower it you will have less travel before it bottoms out & so will need stiffer shocks to catch it before it collapses to the bump stops. The whole trick is not in the spring length, but in stiffening the shocks so they don't bottom out. Once they hit the bump stops all the force goes into the sidewall of the tyre and they just let go. So one good pothole sort of depression in the road halfway through a corner and the car just goes straight.. or instantly sideways if its the rear that bottoms out. Another solution to this is to cut the shock rod shorter by the same distance you lowered the car, so the shock still works over its normal length. Assuming you never load the car to its designed capacity, you can lower it on stock springs and not have any trouble. They were designed to carry 4 people at 70kg each plus luggage, although this is more important at the rear as the front weight is more constant. So you could cut the seat base off the strut and weld it on lower as an option.
  13. Yep, the gas just pushes the water in front of it out of the way until it gets to the rad cap. Like this- The problem definately gets worse when hot, and one factor you didn't list was how much throttle is used. Giving it a good boot raises the chamber pressure a lot and as you say, the heat makes metal expand and gaskets leak more. Not having a cap on tight means it won't over-pressurise the system and blow a hose.
  14. The reason is.... its the Philipines! The gas from a head gasket only pushes out water if the motor is cold and has a thermostat. That's because the gas can't get to the top of the rad through the t'stat and as the pressure builds it blows coolant out past the rad cap until the heat opens the t'stat. Then the gas goes up past the t'stat and out the rad cap. So you only see water pissing out everywhere when it is cold and you have the rad filled to overflowing. Once hot you struggle to see gas bubbles unless it is really full with coolant, they only need it 10mm low to escape unnoticed. So running a leaky head gasket with a thermostat is not as good as a leaking gasket with no t'stat. The other symptom is harder starting or three cyls for a moment in the morning from water going back into a cyl as it cools at night and making the plug wet. It usually clears after a few seconds and then its fine for the rest of the day. A motor idling around town shouldn't get to 100deg, so it shouldn't need pressurising, same a cruising at 100kph. Lots of throttle at slow speed going up hills it what gives it a hard time, crawling around mountains in a jeep.... For fun, go watch youtube for day one of the Monte Carlo at night, the world's top drivers going 20kph.. and this one- check out the red-hot discs. Some fronts only, some all 4, some none at all... check out which cars have all 4 discs glowing red not, which have fronts only and which have none.
  15. Oil pump failure

    Do we think that fitting the heater hose coupling to the back of the head and running a hose to the water pump would help the rear cyl cool? I'm sure you'll have a sensor in that plate on the back of the head, it will be interesting to see how much hotter it gets.