altezzaclub

Well, over 6months later, that was the solution & no further problems. Rego came around last week & the usual garage I go to has been handed down to one of the sons, and he pinged me for tyres and exhaust leak. Fair enough, I could have squeezed 6months out of those tyres before the wear strips, but meh.. Worse was, it didn't idle for him so he put a comment on the sheet & needs it to idle in 12months. He was really keen on a dyno garage in Dubbo, but that's a 300km round trip from here and I dunno how many hundreds of dollars on the machine. He said it would be a thousand dollars well spent.. Nearly killed me! The difference comes in that he thinks the dyno guy can alter the ECU to make it idle with its race cams, while I understand that you can't alter anything in the ECU. All there is to play with is ignition timing & idle speed, and as I have played with, the waxstat cold idle adjustment. It idles a lot of the time, but then drops a couple of hundred rpm, then another couple, then dies.. Doesn't worry me, I'm used to it, I heel & toe naturally. I reckon the jerky over-run is also cam related, there is just a very poor idle vacuum for the MAP to work off. Any ideas?? Things improved when I put the mixture display back in and hooked it onto the oxy sensor wire. I'd taken it out to calibrate a mate's system and ...found I never re-connected the oxy sensor to the ECU as I planned on putting the mixture display back on that afternoon, and didn't! Its better now it doesn't have to run on the ECU map in open loop, and of course when I took it back to the garage he talked about it but didn't try it! Tyres are meh... Falkens on the front, Bridgestones on the back, and at least the Bridgestone's soft sidewalls give it that lovely sharp tail-out turn in. I already know putting them the other way around gives gentle endless understeer. There are just no good 13" compounds made any more.

Here's the dimensions I measured off my 1983 slanty when I converted it to Diahatsu Move vented discs. They would be the $52 discs at 218mm. I wonder if the 229mm ones are on AE86s. The longer life ones, 83-87, are on wagons & vans. They stopped making KE70/AE71 in 83.

That last photo looks great! I'd say that's a perfect ride height.

Well, if you can write an update your pancreas must still be working.. what made you check for diabetes? My wife developed type 1 a few years back, she's never really got it under control, any stress like going to work does crazy things to her sugar levels. Hopefully yours is more straightforward, and a couple of weeks in the shed should be relaxing!

We had a full brake hose set made in stainless steel for the rally car, just sent off the extended lengths we wanted and that all worked out well. These sorts of guys- https://www.braidedhoses.com.au/ https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/brake-and-clutch-hose-manufacturing

Well, here's another myth blamed on "global warming" being debunked.. and an ongoing problem as electric cars will still need tyres. ---------------------------------------------- Just last year, PBS and Popular Science were screaming about “climate change” being the cause with headlines likeClimate Change is Killing Salmon in the Pacific Northwest and Climate change is cooking salmon in the Pacific Northwest It seems they were wrong, dead wrong. New University of Washington research published December 3rd in the journal Science, exonerates “climate change” in the salmon killing caper and finds a surprise villain; an additive to automobile tires, not “climate change.” In fact, the researchers specifically ruled out climate-driven temperature increase as a cause. Basically, the process is like this: stormwater runoff carries tire wear rubber particles into streams from the nearby roads, where a chemical called 6PPD-quinone, a biproduct from the 6PPD preservative added on tires to prevent breakdown by ozone, leeches into the water. It has been determined that this chemical is highly toxic to salmon. Researchers say they identified 6PPD-quinone as the “smoking gun” behind salmon deaths in freshwater streams. Here are some relevant quotes from the University of Washington press release, Tire-related chemical is largely responsible for adult coho salmon deaths in urban streams, bold mine: “We had determined it couldn’t be explained by high temperatures, low dissolved oxygen or any known contaminant, such as high zinc levels,” said co-senior author Jenifer McIntyre, an assistant professor at WSU’s School of the Environment, based in Puyallup. “Then we found that urban stormwater runoff could recreate the symptoms and the acute mortality. “[We]…found something called 6PPD, which is used to keep tires from breaking down too quickly. “It’s like a preservative for tires,” Tian said. “Similar to how food preservatives keep food from spoiling too quickly, 6PPD helps tires last by protecting them from ground-level ozone.” “But when 6PPD reacts with ozone, the researchers found that it was transformed into multiple chemicals, including 6PPD-quinone (pronounced “kwih-known”), the toxic chemical that is responsible for killing the salmon. This chemical is not limited to the Puget Sound region. The team also tested roadway runoff from Los Angeles and urban creeks near San Francisco, and 6PPD-quinone was present there as well. This finding is unsurprising, the researchers said, because 6PPD appears to be used in all tires and tire wear particles are likely present in creeks near busy roads across the world.”

"buy a different project car to build" If you can, then yes! Get something cheap, very average and ratty and use it to learn on. Do the motor up, change the suspension and hit the autocross circuits!

True! Trade economy for performance and fit a Weber, but it won't do much if the exhaust is restrictive... and then the stock cam won't be able to push the revs high enough to make the most of the bigger carb.. and higher compression will really get it going up top, and then port matching and sizing.. Its a punishing spiral once you're on it! The thing about building an individual car is that Toyota built a giant compromise to try and suit everyone, but each of us can make the car much better for fewer things. I hardly ever have another person in the car yet it seats 5, I'll never tow anything, or fill it to max load, so I can concentrate on making it light & nimble. Decide what your car is for and lay out an overall plan. Weber sure, but what else will optimise it.

I've got the little 4K manual here, but its a .pdf so you will have to PM me an email address. I have the full workshop manual for an AE86, but its printed out & I can't remember where I found the file.. somewhere on the net. Parrot has some good tech books, he might see your post or PM him.

Pretty straightforward- Screws into plastic clips in the rubber strip across the car under the bonnet, tabs on the scuttle panel that slide out under the screen. Clean the box out the best that you can, a lot of leaves and dirt gets in there and hold moisture in so it rusts. Oil the joints in the wiper arms while you're in there too. I can't remember if you HAVE to take the bonnet off, or if it just helps to make it easy. I'm only taking the scuttle off when I have the bonnet off anyway.

Interesting.. what diameter is the barrel? Asian are using a dual-choke for the same size engine. Put two of them on a 3K twin manifold! We want before & after dyno graphs!! Even smartphone GPS ones on the same bit of road... Car weighs 860kg, even lighter than a KE70.

"I damaged the nut" What sort of 'damaged'? Stripped the thread or rounded it off?? If you have to take the sump off take the 4 studs right out of the timing chain cover at the front. When you put it back on, use bolts instead of studs. Its a dog to get the sump off without lifting the motor on a jack and tying it up .

If any models of your year had foglights, then the wiring will be in the car. If it was only after the facelift then possibly not. You might have to trawl the net through the most dodgy sites listing wiring diagrams that force you to sign up then supply the wrong wiring diagram at glacial speed, but a factory wiring diagram will tell you the colours and connectors involved. Try the other Toyota forums too. If you hunt around behind the front bumper you might find un-used connectors that are for foglights. There is likely a switch blank plate in the dash that you poke out and install a switch for them. If not, you start from scratch with a switch, a relay and some wires...

WoW! That is nice! Definitely one to look after carefully.

I can't get the google drive file to run, but for tappets I usually lean my ear against a long screwdriver and move it around the engine. Its quite educational for all sorts of noises you don't hear when you stand there, and will show you which end of the tappet cover is noisy.. You could take the tappet cover off and turn the motor over with a spanner while checking each rocker for a tappet gap. As they're hydraulics none should have any gap, but if one has become jammed or run out of adjustment it might show up. You could try a flushing oil in it when you next change the oil, I've used a mixture of diesel & kero in the past, and just let it idle for 10minutes then dump it out again. The clearances in the hydraulic tappets are very small and tar can build up & jam them.