altezzaclub

Well, crunch time is coming.. Subaru done, AE86 getting there- The main jobs were to extend the roll cage with a pair of roof bars from the windscreen to the rear suspension, an X in the main hoop and a set of Sainz bars down the A-pillar. Turned out, modifying a cage is much harder than building one from scratch, but its now up to modern specs for gravel work. The seat mounts also needed upgrading- so they now have the expected pipe mounts- I refurbished some of the 14" Corona steelies we used on the Purple People Eater, so new tyres on Stage one- and one of the few jobs to be done in the next 4 days is to finish a gearbox guard as the J160 sits very low at the back, which is why I had such strange side mounts on the PPE. We measured the rear suspension carefully as the Bilsteins were leaking, and ended up putting a spacer above the bump stop to make sure the diff stopped before the shocks bottomed out. We've used this model Bilstein for years and always had leakage problems after a while, hopefully this helps. Otherwise, whoever built the car did a good job. It was a gravel car for a while, the underside is ruined, but then a tarmac racer as the gearbox & mounts are un-marked. So its back on the gravel down at Batemans Bay this weekend coming!

I can't remember if the bearings are the same, I think they are interchangeable, but 4AFE are only 7bolt and 4AGE are 8bolt for the flywheels.

That's wonderful! I suppose its just got twin carbs and a cam, and it looks like just a main hoop roll cage. Life was so simple in those days! I hope you take it out to the occasional sprint and give it a good run!

I don't know which particular one will fit, but there are three different sumps on 18RG motors, so keep an eye out for sumps & oil pumps as well as cross-members. You might be able to match an available cross-member to a different sump, Coronas and Celicas and whatever... There's a bit in here- Mid-sump photo https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/?tab=comments#comment-641089 Front-sump on this page. Note the oil pump mod someone did to make it fit! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page/3/#comments

Hmm.. March to June, it is getting like Project Binky! The 5 is sitting awaiting its next run up at Leyburn, we've had three events with it and it is superb. The Evo3 however... well... The Cake was left behind the Evo3 as we pulled the motor down before the Orange rally in May and found a spun bearing and two cracked pistons. Josh bought a random motor from someone and a mate mailed up a box of pistons with rods and we ripped into it. The block from the new motor was good, still faint hone marks. However two pistons had collapsed ring lands and those cyls had detonation marks on the head and piston crowns. We took the block and crank. One set of pistons in the box had the rings frozen into the grooves with gunk, just plain never-change-the-oil gunk. It took a couple of hours to clean them up, and then we selected the best set of rings from all the ones we had. The head off the original engine I stripped and did a valve grind, Big G assembled the block with its mis-matched components and off we went to the Orange Rally. Things went OK until the flange nuts on the exhaust manifold came loose and we lost boost as the turbo dropped. That was from making a new manifold completely after the old one suffered fatigue & cracked in the Oberon Rally the month previously. More work needed as Josh found the turbo had side-play from having to use a restrictor for CAMS events, it was over-spinning and sucking itself up the intake tube, giving the bearing a lot of side thrust. Buy a new twin-scroll with bushes instead, push the Cake aside and make yet another new manifold. The gearbox and diffs arrived back from Adelaide after a check on last Wednesday & were fitted. The motor went in on Thursday and Josh could start making a new dump pipe to suit, and I finished in time to hit bed about midnight. He kept working.. I was up at 5am Friday & dragged him up at 7am to finish what we could. We left some things to be done before driver's briefing on Saturday and headed for Sydney, 8hours late at 2pm. 4hours later it was on a dyno, and at midnight Friday we loaded it back on the trailer, tuned for the new twin-scroll. We headed for Bega, 6hours away.. When he cunningly handed the Monster truck over to me about 2am and went to sleep, I found the heater didn't work.. -3deg outside at Canberra, ice on the outside of the windscreen, fog on the inside.. Arrived in time to unload it and start getting ready, Josh had been given #1 start but talked his way into getting #10 instead. First stage gave a terrible clattering sound so he slowed down and drove to the end, came 12th but on looking underneath he found the weight balancing the driveshaft was hitting the plastic underbody we'd just fitted. He said "Oh, I need a recipro saw..", and a guy standing there said "I've got one of those, here.." He was the medic for the stage and had one to cut people out of cars! So, plastic cut, into car, get control time and start immediately.. come first. Go to next stage.. come first again.... go to next stage.. hold cow! First again! By now he was second overall and followed up with a second place and a third in the next stages. Another refuel and we fitted the spotlights, & off into the night. All was not to be, over a bridge and brake for the left-hander to find no brakes! Up the bank fly over the top and into a storm-water retention dam!! So, we go out to the stage and wait for the follow-up to open the road, and pull it out with the Patrol Monster-truck. The inevitable locals turned up with giant utes with winches and lots of beers and helped, and it was just after midnight when we hauled it back to the motel. Damm, its Sunday & I last went to bed on Thursday! So we went and spectated on Sunday then drove home Monday making plans! Today we water-blasted it and put it on the hoist to take photos of the chassis rail pushed back into the driver's floor and the radiator rail crushed on both sides. The K-frame is a writeoff, but mechanically it seems OK. The most likely explanation is Josh took rear bias off before the night stages started to ease the pressure on the rear pads, but the Evo5 has the bias control knob turning the other way and in the dark he turned even more rear bias into the Evo3, and arrived with no front brakes at all. I hope he's right as I wouldn't want it to be another explanation we miss and have it happen again! Anyway, we will put it aside for 6weeks as we must finish the Subaru cage. Then, because the Cake was taking so long and Stephen wanted it with an Altezza motor & 6-speed, he went and bought an AE86 rally car that needs some modifications. So, Subaru, then AE86, THEN back into the Orange Cake at least to get something done before we start on that Evo3 again!

Quite a hot-rod! Any idea why he changed the water pump/alty arrangement at the front? That system looks pretty frightening. He put a lot of work into it, worse than swapping motors in a car!

Yeah, get an electric fan, they not only rarely come on but makes the motor much quieter. Now I realise the roar when a 4WD ute takes off is the giant mechanical fan they use pushing air around the engine bay. What did you do about the difference in flange thickness in the inlet and exhaust manifolds?

"Just curious will the weight difference and rotational mass effect at higher rev range." Easy enough to check- Add up the weights of the crankshaft, pistons & conrods, the flywheel, the clutch, the gear shafts & gears, the driveshaft, the c/w & pinion in the diff, the axles and the rear wheels. Say about 100kg, and the timing chain weight difference is 1kg, then you've added 1% extra weight to the rotating mass & will lose 1% performance... I'd say the valve timing has changed, especially the comment about it gaining low rpm performance and losing high rpm. You could do a Datsun and drill three new holes in your new cam sprocket, all at slightly varying degrees off your zero mark. I think Datto 1600s had two marks and we used to put in two more so we could adjust cam timing at 4 then 8 then 12deg and one tooth was 16deg. Otherwise, just enjoy the smoothness low down! Get a high-lift cam cut to 270-275deg and concentrate on the torque under 5000rpm.

It should be inside the alternator by then, the KE70s had internal regulators in 1983, the KE55 had the old external regs on 1981. Count the wires on the alty or just follow them.

Copy & paste what you wrote into a new thread for yourself... Anyway, first thing it to clean the carb internally, carefully remove the top and jets. I prefer to hose petrol through the jets and drillings with a plastic syringe, or use compressed air. You could use a can of carb cleaner. With twin carbs you have twice as much work to do! Once you're sure they are clean in the passageways the petrol flows through, reassemble them & try it. Screwing the idle mixture out increases the flow of fuel though it, and it controls engine power up to 2000rpm when the main jet has taken over. You might have other problems in there that the idle adjustment is covering, so check points gap & ignition timing too. Is there an air leak somewhere that the richer idle setting is compensating for? The motor should run at factory settings obviously, so the only things I can think of is a blockage in the fuel idle circuit, which opening the screw somehow compensates for, or extra air getting in that you need extra fuel for.

I reckon its quite normal- Heat will continue to build up in the water while you're stationary until the fan comes on & gives it some airflow. A bigger radiator just means it would be a longer time before the fan comes on, but all electric fan systems should do the same. How long does the fan stay on for? It should run for a minute or so then turn off, the come on again a few minutes later. If it gets hot while driving at 100kph you would have a problem.

"Today I took it out for a ride, the temp was at around 80ish while running." So- correct me if I'm wrong, but it runs cool enough when driving, but heats up until the fan comes on when stationary?? Is that it? If so, then its quite normal, any car will hit max temp if it sits for long enough, especially if you've been driving and stop at traffic lights. Without a mechanical fan the radiator loses very little heat when sitting still, and even if you had the electric fan on your original radiator it would come on in traffic around town on a hot day. Did you get a new Honda rad, or one that might be blocked with junk? It looks new... If it is getting too hot while driving, then you don't have enough water in there, or enough cooling capacity. You could weigh/measure the amount of water in the Honda rad and compare it to the original. The aluminium rads on Ebay hold twice as much water as a stock KE70 one. You could block the rest of the radiator panel in the front of the car so all air has to go through the radiator. You could buy a high-flow thermostat from Tridon to put back in, but it sounds like you don't have much of a problem really. I ran my 4AGE on the stock KE70 radiator for a couple of years OK, the only thing I noticed is that if it heated up over 90deg going up a mountain range it took longer to cool down, so it could keep the engine cool at cruise, but lacked the cooling capacity to get rid of heat when stressed.

Well, if it was reliably running and registered its probably worth $5000-6000. Take a look in Gumtree. I don't think being an Olympic Edition adds much, its just as likely to get chopped into a fuly sik drifter by some kid. Not being rego'd knocks it back a lot, the person buying it doesn't know whether it will cost $1000 or $3000 to get it regoe'd. Then the rust is always worth a lot more work & money than what it seems at the start. Finding a good diff & tailshaft isn't too bad, $500 should cover that. So its really a shell with no dents, it was worth $400 about 6years ago when we bought a pair of them for $800, not rusty, not rego'd but running. It was worth about a $1000 at the beginning of covid, and by now you should get $1000-$1500 for it. Get it driving around and its worth a lot more, at least the person buying it knows the motor runs, the clutch & gearbox are OK, the brakes all work... there's a big difference there.

I can't find a photo of what I did, but I expect I cut that barb off and used flexible lines on those pipes to get onto the hard lines. Yours is still low pressure at that point isn't it? My high pressure pump is in the engine bay, so the high pressure line is very short. There is very little pressure in the low pressure side as the return to the tank from the surge tank bleeds any pressure off. That connection only has to be as good as the two sprung clamps on the little hose off the pump, both see the same pressure.

Port matching would be better. Make sure you have the new gasket first, get a one-piece one from Unipro or similar, and match all three diameters. Its easy to carve the head out with a tungsten burr, you only need to go in about 20mm and blend the enlarged hole down to the original size. Finish it with a flapper wheel. https://www.carbideburr.net/carbide/sc-6-carbide-burr-die-grinder-bit/ If you don't it will still work, in theory not quite as well as the sudden step creates a lot of turbulence. Of course this might affect the peak rpm badly, but be better at lower revs, who knows? There's a photo in here of when I did mine, you can see the rags stuffed down each port to stop the swarf going everywhere. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/