altezzaclub

If you run into idle problems when you have it running, try a different air filter setup, especially lengthening the tube before the MAF sensor. Quite a few guys had troubles with aftermarket air filters like that, the airflow was too disturbed for the sensor. One guy filled the tube with plastic straws to reduce the turbulence.

"Any crappy old 2TG is going to cost a shitload to buy, and 5 shitloads to rebuild." Yep! Always the problem.. For a show car you would use something old, but for a daily I'd look at the newest you can. The 3SGE setup is 20years old already, so that's at least 250,000km on the motor and gearbox. It's a tall motor, I'll tell you more when we finally get this one fitted into Steve's AE86. I'm leaning towards an MX5 motor & 6-speed for the next setup in The Girls KE70, that 4AGE won't last forever. Do you put $4K into rebuilding an old motor and another $2k or $3k into a gearbox rebuild, or buy $6K worth of newer but used motor? A lovely option, even better to drive, would be the dead stock setup from my son's Fiesta ST turbo, they bolt on to a RWD gearbox, or my daughter's i30 N-line, both turbo 1.6L. The hard thing is making a conversion reliable, as Parrot said. Leave it all dead stock with all the stock ECU setup..

Well, its still crawling along... The Evo5 is fine, Josh has won 2 of the 4 rounds of the Whiteline Tarmac Sprints so far this season, one round left. The Evo3 lunched the motor on the practice day for Coffs big two-day rally, but the replacement seems ok in a couple of gymkhanas and its first 2023 rally is this coming weekend. The AE86... Ah well, halfway through Batemans Bay it tossed a rod out both sides of the block, and it's sitting out the back of the workshop currently. We have a couple of cages to build first, an RX7 & a Datto 1600, and then it gets new, lower, seat mounts (the floors are cut out already) and a 3SGE instead of a replacement 4AGE. This was going to be the motor for the Orange Cake, so that project is a bit undecided. We still want to tub the back end of the KE70 sedan with coilovers and equal-length arms, but first we need the AE86 running and reliable. It should be an interesting year...

I've shortened a few over the years, usually on rally cars, I"m not sure about the legality of chopping up stock bumpers. You can tuck them back against the body quite well, just pull the plastic off and re-shape the steel & mounts, then use a grinder to size the plastic to suit. I never took any photos unfortunately. What would you do with a Skyline's width? Cut the bumper in the middle to make it narrower, or are they close enough? Its all from a very sad time in motoring history due to the Yanks and their 5mph crash test. A lot of lovely cars were ruined by having to graft on large ugly bumpers for a decade until they integrated the whole idea with the body. Aha! Found one-

Chase up Lloyd Smith in Tassie, he built a UZ one a decade back. If you can get hold of him he will know the whole story, I think he built the complete car and sorted it.

I usually find the driver's side balljoint is the good one & the passenger's side the loose one. The road edge just hammers the suspension on that one side, a result of Aussie's crap roads. They are difficult to measure in place, but if you take the wheel off and put a block of wood or something under the hub to support it at about ride height, you can slip a big screwdriver in the LCA/strut area and see the movement from the loose balljoint. With the weight going through the strut onto the wood, the LCA is pretty much floating free. Use the screwdriver to push the LCA down, the jack to push it up until it takes weight, & lever down again. There shouldn't be any movement in there at all. I've changed both mine, some years back now, and the new ones were tight but smooth.

That was 7years ago.. Today, try offering $15k-$20k.... There is an immaculate original wagon in South Australia for $18K. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/grange/cars-vans-utes/1982-toyota-ke-70-corolla-panelvan/1260220886

Yeah, I wouldn't be happy about the amount of distance the rubber has to swivel if it was locked by the crush tube, it seems a long way. The 5 arms in the rear suspension of a KE70 have the same bushes, and in the front LCAs, its why you never do them up tight until they are at ride height. I think they used them as they don't wear like the tapered bushes, they hold steady until the rubber fractures and then they are a throwaway. Because they are vulcanised into the metal bush the tolerances are smaller & more accurate.

The one pictured doesn't move on the shaft, it relies on the rubber distorting to turn, so gets done up tight on the crush tube. Others have two tapered bushes that do swivel on the shaft and have a castellated nut, although I can't swear to Toyota following the other Japanese manufacturers in the 1970s. I think I've seen swivelling bushes on Celicas.

I did drag a 3SGE out at the wreckers (A Celica fwd one) for a young guy in Walcha to put in his Corona. He had it in but the Webers were not working in it last time I saw it, I listed what to do but I don't know if he ever got it running. The 3S is a very tall motor, you'd want to be sure before you started the job. Sorry I can't be any more help. Ah- make sure the gearbox fits too, I'm sure the J160 is too wide at the bell housing. I expect you'll need a W box.

Check what tyres you can buy before getting the rims. You will find good 13" are not so available these days, and 14" are also shutting down. I like the 13" look myself, 13x7 would be great. The Escort guys reckon 195/45 x13 for the handling, 205/60x13 for the looks.

Pull the starter off & take a look at the gears, both on the starter and the teeth on the flywheel. The motor stops in the same position each time you turn it off so the wear is always on the same teeth when you start it. Ring gears used to wear the teeth off enough that the starter wouldn't engage properly, but these days they do seem to last longer. Then clean the starter shaft & put some grease or oil on it & oil the bush at the end. That will improve it for a couple of years.

After 13years... it was probably scrapped years ago! However there is one in Wellington sitting in the long grass of the front paddock, and I've seen another one parked up further North in NSW, maybe Tenterfield.

Yes.. The new ones will pull 100amps, so if you're motor doesn't start easily an old battery will not crank for long. The old starters pull half that, so in theory they can crank for twice as long. For the coil, the high-speed starters will create a larger voltage drop too, the coil will notice that 100amps being pulled out. That's where the ballast resistor on the old 4K really helps. However if Mitsubishi made the 4G13 to take a reduction starter motor I'm sure they engineered the whole motor to work with them OK.

Well, another couple of years of running around.. I was doing the annual polish when I came across a rust hole in the bottom of the rear guard on the nav side.. I'd seen it last Xmas when doing the same & thought 'I must get onto that', and put a bit of tape over it.. Inside I'd painted it with some white enamel just to stop it rusting more, so this time that was all wire brushed, treated with phosphoric acid and then a coat of a high-zinc enamel. Doing that made me paranoid enough to look at every seam very carefully, and any crack in the paint meant the factory sealer was dug out and new seam sealer applied. Then it as all undercoated and a can of aerosol colour finished it. Down in both side wells and across the back.. Next will be cleaning under the rear guards and re-spraying with some tarry underbody sealer, hopefully to make it last another decade or two. The boot area is the weakest place on the car, the front never seems to flex as much, but eventually I'll get to look at that end too. I'm thinking about insuring it with Shannons, I've never had the car insured, just third-party property, but an accident that writes it off (easy to do!) will mean the chances of finding another in this good a condition are slim indeed. There is one superb example of a wagon in a South Australian dealership, it was about $15000, now I see its $18000.