altezzaclub

You can buy a new Mig welder for that money, so everyone does. Makes it difficult to compare..

Well, there's a big difference between what you own and what you are looking at buying, and that is RWD compared to FWD. They take quite different driving styles to get the maximum, and some people are suited to one, some the other. FWD have an inbuilt stability that comes from the driving wheels pulling the car along behind them, so the rear wheels follow the front more easily. The tradeoff is the constant understeer and wicked oversteer if the tail does lose grip. Watch the European 2L saloon championships on Youtube and see how many people can catch a FWD when the tail slides, almost none of them. They are faster for the power as they lose less in the drivetrain. RWD have the rear pushing the front straight ahead, so any turning lets the rear step out into oversteer. The advantage is far better turn-in at a corner, and if the tail steps out you can steer it with the throttle. So for me there is no question, a RWD. I'd go for a KE70, cheaper than a Celica yet has the same motor and suspension. The suspension becomes the important part if you're going track racing. An MX5 will have all the tech developed to be a race car, they've been popular since they were new, and if you're not fussy about car make then that would be the best bet. If you want a FWD, find a 20valve for the car you have, I think its the same shell isn't it. If you like racing it then keep your eyes open for the one with the fancy rear suspension. No matter what you decide on, go do dirt gymkhanas in it to sort out the drifting feel, or wet tarmac ones. You don't want to start learning at full speed in a new car! --------------------- Check out mark blundell at 1.46min in here- This is a great series for pitting FWD against 4WD against RWD from the different manufacturers, and there's no doubt FWD lightness and power does well.

Are the weights set up for a car in those dizzys? It would be a better buy than those made for fork hoists or whatever they were! Yeah, I'm hearing stories from him about having to wear a mask every day. Good thing he didn't buy a house in central Melb... Good luck you guys down there-

Love it! Especially the water tank! Shame about the dog dying...

The red dots are where I blocked the hoses off, leaving only the vacuum advance on the dizzy and the charcoal canister. I haven't got a 4K anymore, but take a look and see if that diaphram hooks into the throttle stop. It might be just to slow the throttle closing down so it doesn't snap shut. That's for emissions control, like injected motors these days lose revs slowly. Seeing I blocked it off and the car ran fine, its not crucial, although that was a lot of years ago to remember. Ah- the HIC is a hot idle compensator, so it holds the throttle open in some situations and lets it close right down in others. The 'jet' is often a vacuum delay, so no vac is allowed through until its stronger than a spring. OK, here its called a Throttle Positioner, and seeing its marked late model it shouldn't be on a 3K

They will lower fuel consumption, which I watch pretty carefully. Sadly the half a L/100Km it will save you is never enough to justify the very noticeable extra cost, so I settle for United's 95octane. Like you, I can't feel the difference, but those long 500Km runs over the same roads to the farm give me pretty sharp figures.

OMG! Time flies! I've made one trip up to the farm in the KE70, and one in the Altezza. Then back home since Easter or so. With 4 cars and three drivers the KE70 stays in the garage with the Altezza in the driveway in front of it, so I drive the Altezza. Naturally, when I go to drive the Corolla.. the battery is flat! Charge it up and take it downtown, and it suddenly cuts out and dies! The guy behind at the lights helps push it off the road, and of course it fires up without me doing anything. Drive for another Km and it dies again! Wait a minute and it fires up! I figure fuel starvation as there are no error codes and so I have re-fit the mixture display, which shows it leaning out as it dies. I look inside the tank in case the lift pump has dropped off again, but its fine. I take the fuel rail return line off an run it through the car with some clear hose. It never empties. I start thinking the main pump may be dying from a bad relay in the COR setup, so put a wire from the battery direct to the pump, tucked away under the air filter... and that's when I find one of the wires on the pump is not firmly on the terminal at all! I assume it was moving off under some acceleration or other, the motor dies and it falls back into place! Having put it on firmly and seeing it do two days of running around, I hope that was the problem and the fix. I've sold the Altezza and its one car each now!

How's it going?? Done any more??

Lovely! I've just returned from the Botanic Gardens chasing my cuttings forcing cabinet as one probe seems to give ridiculous readings. I measured the resistances and voltages produced and found the dud one to be out. It was showing 39deg in the gravel on the bottom of the cabinet while it was cold and wet. So I check Rollaclub over lunch & what do i find? Here's Banjo with the readings and temperatures of the two-wire thermistor thingy I have in my hand! Well done that man! So the dud probe reads 0.3 to 0.2mV and 5.9Kohm, shows 40.4deg The probe I put right next to it reads 0.1 to 0.0mV and 10.2Kohm, shows 24.6deg The top probe reads 0.1mV and 8.2Kohm, showing 29.7deg I'll find out what it is I need to buy and replace that one. How do they go wrong Banjo? Mechanical flex changing wire resistance? Anyway, now you've solved my problem... back to the electronic K motor!

OK, generate a timing curve with a timing light & tacho, and see if the electronic dizzy has been re-curved to suit a car & not a forkhoist. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/ That make a the biggest difference to performance once I'd fitted the electronic dizzy, maybe yours has been done already. The mixture display works well as you can watch it under all sorts of driving conditions, although once the jets are set up you don't touch them again. Here's the Weber jet suggestion list-

Nice job! That looks really smart! What exhaust do you have on it? Stock manifold? You could measure the cam specs yourself with a protractor on the crank. That would give you opening and closing, and hence degrees. A dial gauge on a rocker at the same time would give you lift. Fiddly, but not hard. Power range comes from where the inlet closes, that's why people use adjustable cam drives with hot cams. If you want to do it I'll give you details, but you'll need big protractor and preferably a dial gauge. Pop the base plate out of the distributor and make sure its clean and greased underneath so the weights can work smoothly. Are you using stock points or electronic?? If they're stock make sure the gap is correct and there is no volcano on one face giving a false reading. If you replace the points always replace the condenser. Set to 10deg at idle with a timing light, no vac advance. Check it advances out to 35deg or thereabouts when you rev it. K motors will take more advance than 10deg, it really depends on your carbs, your fuel and your altitude. First do a plug cut by pulling a good full-power run in 3rd one day, whip your foot off the accelerator & kill the ignition at the same time. Take out the plugs on the side of the road and check for colour. Really white will be lean, any soot on the center will be rich. There are jet suggestions on the web, I'll look some up later. The best is a mixture display running off an oxy sensor in the exhaust, or a dyno tune. That's a start....

Ah, OK, so you have a blank slate for engines. Still cheapest is a 4K, and anything else depends on the balance of how good the motor is, how hard it is to fit & how big your budget is. You could just buy a 4K until you're off your P's, although even that will need a stack of other bits like clutch cable setups, throttle cables, choke cables, exhaust system, driveshaft, and other bits you might not have been sold. You'll need someone wrecking a KE70, or a good local wrecking yard. Buy another KE70 to run around in for a couple of years!

lol! I never thought it would have anything but a 3SGE & a 6-speed.. You're right, you could option a 1GFE, or 15" wheels, or sunroof, or leather interior.. You could make it exactly as an IS200 came off the assembly line except for the Lexus badge and grille. By far the most common are 3SGE with auto or manual, the nose weight balance is much better that way.

(Sold in theory- the first guy that saw it offered $9k, and seeing I had to drive to Lithgow to meet him it was good enough. Of course since then someone else has offered $10K.... It will sell ! ) 1999, I bought it in 2001 in NZ with 25,000km on. Now has 207000, it was a garage queen for years, as suiting the car that started Altezzaclub as 'Greeneyes', then saw more use when we moved to Aussie in 2007. Immaculate inside, never crashed, the paint at the front is chipped as expected from NSW country roads. Aftermarket rear sway, cross-strut bar, TRD clutch & flywheel. Rego until early next year sometime. Insured with Shannons for $13K, start talking around $10K and see how we go, I'll actually advertise it in Carsales & Gumtree in a week or two. I'll take some current photos before then, these are when we moved over except the last which is a month back. Such a classic shape! I'd like to keep it but there are far too many cars at home now. -------------------------------------- OK, here are current photos-

I'll probably regret this, but having a T50 in The Girls KE70 means I no longer need the K gearboxes. Both are in bits, the K40 because it was educational for The Girl, and the K50 because I asked a g'box shop to replace the seal, and having pulled it down and cleaned it, they said it needed new bearings! It was working fine for years, but it had started to leak oil. $50 for both Pick 'em up in Orange or make a plan with me. Meet me in Lithgow for another $50...