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altezzaclub

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altezzaclub last won the day on February 10

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  1. Yes, that's a much better advance curve, you should have the whole 36deg on by 3500rpm. The K motors will take more advance than that, its just a matter of what fuel you can buy and how much advance you can give it before it starts to lose power or knock. The plug colours are interesting, I don't know why they are in piston pairs like that. I wonder if 2 and 3 have an inlet air leak around the exhaust port in the middle and are running lean? Check the bolt tightness along the manifolds just in case. Is there one of those air pump/pollution lines run into the inlet manifold in the middle? Otherwise it is a richness problem with 1 and 4, even harder to explain! maybe a misfire on 1 and 4 is making them black.
  2. In that case, check the dizzy and timing. The dizzy pin in the center should wind back a little and spring forward again if you turn the rotor, that's the springs under the base plate controlling the advance. You could take the base plate out, its only two screws, and examine the weights and springs underneath. They are what advances the ignition as you accelerate. If the pin moves sideways, yes its a very worn bush at the bottom of the dizzy, and that can change the points gap and timing all the time. You may find the new dizzy has a terrible advance curve due to the springs they use, as per a recent post on here in the last week or two. The electronic dizzys are for a fork-hoist or a van, so make the car very slow. Coil is another suspect, they can idle OK but break down when under pressure as you accelerate causing a misfire. Its not pinkng is it, that light detonation under acceleration that is caused by too much advance and each misfire causes a knocking sound? I haven't heard it in decades now every car is computer controlled. Try higher octane petrol once your tank is nearly empty, maybe 97octane Premium won't do it. Do you have a timing light, a very handy tool that is worth buying for all the vehicles you will own?
  3. 'maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment. ' Nope, they're just the same.. grind a couple of corners so they fit past the inlet manifold OK, grind a weld back here and there, and cut spring washers in half and glue the halves onto one manifold to make it level with the other... ..and don't use the double manifold gaskets they sell, get a one-piece. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/
  4. Can you fit your old dizzy, your old fuel pump and your old carb?? Not all at once, one at a time and see if one of them fixes it. Otherwise, could be fuel starvation, or timing, it really depends on when it jerks. On over-run?? On acceleration? Going up a hill? On a tiny amount of throttle?? Does it idle smoothly?
  5. Take a look through here, I fitted an electronic dizzy and found the advance curve to be very late. In the end I used springs I found around the house to make it work. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/4/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/#comment-511594
  6. What else happens?? Do you pump the throttle to make it richer when cranking hot? Does it idle fine hot or cold? Can you smell raw petrol at any time?? Its an auto choke isn't it? Parrot's idea seems pretty good to me, otherwise the only thing I can think of would be fuel. Throw it overboard and fit a 4AGE!
  7. Wicked! Which gearbox, W series or the Altezza J160?? I don't know how you fitted it in there, I'm having enough trouble putting one in an AE86 right now.
  8. I'm sure they pick on another KE70 earlier up the page. From a website examining the depth of America's military prowess in Iraq. https://simplicius76.substack.com/p/the-iraq-war-was-a-sham
  9. Well, another trip to Adelaide over Christmas, this time I was under pressure to do the 1200km in 12hrs before the reception desk closed at 5pm. That went well, although not the 7.0L/100 I was hoping for... Then i got keen over quietening it down even more and bought some foam/foil insulation off Ebay. First was making a few short videos as I drove to the workshop and back each day, now I just need a video editor for dummies so I can measure some noise volume. I started on the parcel shelf, straight over the fibre-board Toyota fitted in the factory, and I'll put a coloured cloth over it when I can convince the wife to sew it. Next was some melamine on 3mm MDF for the firewall area, but fitted much more carefully to make sure there aren't any holes or gaps. I didn't think of photos until 10min ago, and I'm not taking that seat back out again.. The base foam goes straight on the floor, which is where I'm up to. It covers the guard curves under the seat wings too. So, I'll fit the seat base, run a few videos on the way to work on Monday and see if I can measure a difference in noise.
  10. Its toast! Just not as warm... Power arrives at the panel, and I assume you tested an earth leading away, and you can't get a reading through the panel itself. If the earth wire goes to the chassis with less than 5ohms, the problem is in the panel, and most likely there is a break or corrosion in the wire somewhere along the way. I don't know what resistance it should show, but 10ohms would be enough to defrost a window.
  11. "The car already is a bare shell with literally nothing on it, and it's about to be 100% rust free once the repairs are done. I'm having a 4AGE and a T50 being built+remachined/reconditioned in California. As for the rest of the work, such as the T series diff conversion, AE86 front suspension, etc, is all gonna be done by a shop that has a fabricator on hand for anything I need. Basically all I've been trying to find through these forums are the parts and conversion that I need to buy/get started on so that the shop can install them once my motor is finished and the rebuilding process begins. I'm hoping it's gonna be pretty quick since the car is just a shell with no paint, no interior, no suspension, etc. " Excellent! By far the best way to tackle a project like this! Strip to a shell, rebuild shell, undercoat, fit engine/diff/suspension, strip them out, paint it all then re-fit mechanicals and wire it up. It will be great to see some photos as it progresses. Spreadsheet- The clutch master cyl can come out of a whole range of Toyotas, but the pedal box would be nice if it was stock. If you get stuck you will fine the clutch part is usually just grafted onto the auto pedal box, so probably not hard to stick a clutch pedal off another Toyota onto a KE20 frame. KE70 crossmember will be wider I expect. We had 4K motors fitted here and while the AE86/KE70 crossmembers are the same, the mounts won't take both motors. I have a Haltech Sprint 500 sitting on my desk to run my 4AGE when I have time to fit it. It came out of a race car so it does everything the 4AGE needs, but there will be extras you may or may not need with the flasher Haltechs.. I don't know if you'll find anything interesting in here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/12068-ke70ae71te72ae86-similarities-differences/page/2/#comments
  12. Nice! I remember some of those photos of the previous build, should be great when you've got it on the road.
  13. Excellent! Well, there ya go, now you're educated and experienced and it didn't cost too much!
  14. The AE86 center should fit, but get the axle first and see how it fits under the car. It should be noticeably wider. Changing the front struts would be ideal, Celica or Corona 50mm ones, giving bigger brakes as standard. That introduces all the problems of ride height, LCA length & camber, steering arm fitting and the big one I forgot yesterday, are you going to use a rack or a steering box?? That decision changes how the 4AGE fits in, and then you realise why people convert to a rack on the AE71 cross-member that is made for the 4AGE. Otherwise the gearbox bellhousing won't fit very well. Hopefully things like sway bars are a minor issue. The bars to hold that axle in place will be a lot more complex, but just start off with a leaf spring setup and see how it suits you. This guy was running 180KW through leafs on a Skyline diff- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/22610-my-2tgte-ke20/#comments Where's the KE20 fuel tank?? In the boot under the parcel shelf? Have you worked out where you're putting the surge tank and fuel pump? I'm a great believer in a small surge tank, mine is maybe 300ml so takes up no room under the 4AGE intake system and I've never had a problem with it. A big alloy radiator and an electric fan on the list? These days I'd cheat and strip the KE20, put it on a rotisserie and start from there... Is a 12month fully restored and modified 4AGE/KE20 project a problem? Cruising through the web, this is an interesting problem- "I've got a late model AE86 T series Kouki, disc brake rear end that I'm trying to fit into my Ke25, and my engineer is tell me that it can't be done. He said the only way to bring it back to ke20 1320mm width would be shorten one side about 60mm (i.e. left side as diff centre is already 20mm off centre to the right.) which will bring diff centre 40mm to left. My issue with this is that I think I'll have drive shaft clearance issues?" https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72644-ke20-diff-to-ae86-conversion/ ..read it carefully, it explains the offset driveshaft in the Skyline Borgy in the 2TGTE link at the top & how difficult it is to shorten axles. Do you have a good engineer looking over it for certification? That's the biggest part of a project these days. Well, I can see you have weeks or reading, there is so much on the net about doing this project. https://www.toycrazy.net/tech/ke2strutupgrade.htm
  15. " sounds easy when you say it fast. lots of work. " Absolutely! So the easiest is to find a T-series diff from a leaf rear end & fit it. That's Corona and vans and Celica. They'll be wider so expect to move the mounts in, and drums only. If it hops around you can add a panhard and lower anti-tramp arms to help it. That's half a 5-link you've fitted. Next is an AE86 or T-series liftback or any imported Corolla that had a banjo-style Japanese diff, not the Borg-Warner. They will have coils & 5-link arms, so as Dave said, start chopping the floor and welding on mounts. I've never done it, there will some tricky questions to solve. Keep the diff as light as possible, no ute diffs, as the car is already so light it won't like another 80 to 100kg bouncing around under the tail. The 4AGE doesn't have enough torque to blow anything up unless you're particularly mechanically insensitive. We put OS Giken limited slips into the T-series diffs for the rally cars, they are high quality and seem to last. There's a list of all the Toyota diff part-numbers, their size and what car they fitted floating around the web. That's pretty handy. I kept some of it here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/5/#comments This is big project, I hope you've got some prior experience doing this sort of conversion, or a lot of patience! Make sure you have a point fixed where you bail out of it- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ That's as important as the finely detailed list you must have before you buy anything at all, every job broken down into exactly what happens and where it fits in with all the other jobs. Project management makes or breaks these adventures.
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