altezzaclub

" these are poorly welded and or warped"... Likely... When we weld a manifold it gets bolted to a head beforehand to minimise the warping. What does a straight-edge along the whole extractor face show? The middle two bent to one side or not parallel vertically?? The best answer would be to get them ground flat right along the mating face, which would be good if it was $100 or less. It would be cheaper to heat the middle pair up with an oxy/acetylene set and twist them to the right place once red-hot. Simple to heat up, but hard to get lined up just right. You could try lightly bolting just the headers on and heating them up, then pulling them flat with the bolts when soft. Unless the bolts/nuts pull it straight and flat, then the gasket will blow out all the time. Was it up to torque when you put the feeler gauge down it?

"We know points aren't sparking 100% of the time. They are sparking 90% of the time." If you haven't replaced the condensor it is time to do it, they make the spark good or bad. Rich is interesting, do you think it might be running a high fuel level, either float level or dirt on the needle seat. Is one of the other carbs any better?

Does it have the electrical fuel cut-out on the side of the carbie that the later ones did? Maybe that was KE70 only. Is it easy to start otherwise, cold or hot? Do you think it still has the same amount of fuel in the bowl when it stops?? So it shouldn't need a choke, or pumping the accelerator, it should start on idle. Will it start just holding the pedal down about 10-20%? Check the coil and distributor wiring, I've seen a broken coil wire that sat on the terminal until you braked hard, whereupon it swayed away and only went back to the coil as the motor shook from cranking.

Well, back on the road and better than before.. I saw a clue here where the edges of the TVIS throttle plates are covered in carbon. The edges should be clean where they shut against the inlet runners. A year or two (or three..) back I had assigned a Haltech pin to open the TVIS and a light to indicate it was open, and I relied on that. Nope, this time I figured out a way to photograph the arm that works them, with a bit of white paint on the arm and floodlights under the car, and setting the Haltech to trigger them at 1100rpm.. They are activated by the diaphram, but away from the camera so you can't usually see the arm that moves them. They stayed open all the time, the default Toyota position with no vacuum on them. So I chased Haltech pinouts and found one that activated them correctly, and the car is much better low down! Between the cams, the lack of flywheel and the TVIS the car was running rich and poorly low down. It crossed my mind, fairly seriously, to get a second TVIS plate and move the throttles to the other ports, and run them off the throttle cable with a TPS on one end.. That would give me throttle control right by the head ports, 4 runners for low revs and eight for high revs, and maybe a better control of off-idle power, the 2-5% where you are driving around town. I got hold of Johndee and he suggested just disabling them first to get a base-line of performance while I find a second TVIS setup and engineer the change in throttle plates, and... ..if anyone has a TVIS system lying around I'd love to know! So that adventure has been caught up on, plus I have the COPs from Barry Manon fitted, and the Banjo distributor doesn't leak oil!

Fit this if you haven't already- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/177487513731?fits=Plat_Gen%3AKE55|Make%3AToyota&_skw=toyota+ke55+headlight+relays&itmmeta=01KWTATQAZEH18AW53VFYHEBS4&hash=item2953148883:g:wf4AAeSwLYlo7Qds&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCm4UXQkL%2BH54Zn1Fi%2FK%2FCIxUre4eicbqIcF95OZ3t96q3XP9vLhknAsfBIOe48eDFmvIJRe3bpPw%2Fz1sSKPYDumWI8AZ5SB53LcKn3Yf0j12SROuHpLD%2FLX7ytBHgGOdGenbEhBoRSsLMw7UVJsyBhS7UKjgWoslCbmI95WhAvYTFyqP87W3JUdVfdD0vHf%2BQXMAeOpUMjDi6uPdRqoBDAow93TxGrZzWFtnfwEe15Nwcz1Mlse0h8qu154ciC%2F1NqyBVjz7DXeQJFCZl7%2BG4RjBRdClkDRxIt5oGKoj25zwzDMBYnGV5WSEdLWk1aIqQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-b16srmZw It takes all the heavy current out of the dash system. Its well worth the $30, but you can make your own with a couple of relays, which I did in The Girls KE70 many years ago. Then I'm afraid it will be tearing the dash out and cleaning earths and contacts and checking voltages...

Well, you're dead right with those tyres, tiresize.com says 90mph becomes 89.6..! You can count the diff ratio by jacking up one rear wheel and turning the driveshaft by hand, the KE70 auto diff is 4.3, the manual's is 4.1, still a much smaller error than you see.

"My believe is that the speedo drive comes off the final shaft out of the gearbox; & the gear ratios have no affect on it at all. " Yep. ..and if you swap the gearbox to one with a different number of speedo teeth you have to swap the nylon gear too, or it will chew itself to bits quite quickly. Diff and tyres will put it out by a percentage, so 20% on yours, which is a lot for tyres are they are generally a similar diameter. Same for a diff ratio change, you could swap a 4.3 to a 4.1 and feel the difference immediately, and that's only 5%. They would have fitted a 5.1 ratio to give a 20% over-read, and the motor would be screaming at 100kph. If it was a ratio from g'box or diff change, the 20% at 100kph would give you 12kph error at 60kph. So, maybe something inside the speedo where the magnet spins and turns the needle against a very weak spring. Things like the distance from the magnet to the needle. Anyway, start by pulling the cable out, hanging it up on a wire and put a drop or few of oil in the top every time you walk past..

Lol! Was it that horrible BorgWarner that went into the KE70 as well?? I know the Girls KE70w as a horrible thing when we bought it, any long uphill was a nightmare, and the gearbox weighed half as much again as the manual that replaced it. An ad like that should be sued for fraud!

The magnets were for exactly that Banjo! Usually they bolt on to the crank nose. The starter was starting to get cooked from the lack of clearance to the extractors- So this morning's job was a lower heat shield- ..and the beautiful black-painted milled alloy valley cover met a step-drill for 3 extra holes.. I might start chasing airflow around the engine bay when its running, I can pull air in the side vent which runs inside the guard from beside the passenger's headlight to in front of the turret, taking cold air to the original 4K air filter. Its just awkward going across the engine bay to the valley cover. The starter solution will be to either fit an alloy spacer plate milled from 6mm to 4mm so it tilts the extractors towards the chassis rail, there's 25-30mm clearance there, or Josh reckons cut the pipes off the manifold plate and weld an extra 20mm of pipe in, its faster for him to do that. Electrics tomorrow, everyone's favourite!

Well I re-set the timing a few weeks back, drove it around for the day and.. the next day it wouldn't start! Fooled around long enough to flatten the battery, tried to get the timing back where it was on the Haltech, then pulled the dizzy out and stripped it. Decided the VR reluctors from factory might be dodgy so spent a couple of days fitting Banjo's Hall Effect dizzy and the COPs kits, rewiring a bunch of stuff to do it. Of course it still wouldn't start, so I popped out to the workshop and borrowed a compression gauge. Two cyls were crap, so, off with its head! Everything inside was carboned up, and once I had the valves out you could see the gritty soot holding the valve off the seat. The head went off and got dipped, came back looking like new, and I have been slowly putting it back together. This time I did the cam timing quite carefully instead of relying on what it was. The cams are Wade 267deg grinds, nothing outrageous. I didn't spend the time re-making my old dial gauge mounts from Datsun 1600 days, with the cam shims you can simply stick a small screwdriver in the cut-out of the tappet lifter and if the valve is open, you can feel instantly when the cam lifts off and the lifter rotates. Same for when the valve is closed, as you rotate the cam you can rotate the lifter barrel back and forth until it suddenly jams as the cam lobe presses on it. The best buy was the $3 150mm protractor from Officeworks, and I had half a dozen strong little magnets from an ipad I took apart one time. With the head off the pistons come up just clear of the block slightly, so I could check piston travel from both directions just before TDC. Turns out TDC is not where the mark on the cam cover is, its 3deg before that. Not that it will make any difference to setting either cam timing or ignition timing! So they're set up opening at 22deg BTDC and closing 120deg BTDC, and vice versa. I've cleaned up odd things along the way as all the cold start stuff wasn't needed with the Haltech, and now the inlet system is on I'm looking at how close the extractors are to the starter motor. That Subaru fuel filter housing still does a great job as a surge tank! This week I hope to be back on the road!

`Ah, another click might be when the starter solenoid engages, throws the gear into the flywheel, but the teeth don't mesh. This comes from the motor usually stopping in the same place when you turn it off, so one small area of teeth on the flywheel get worn out, and the pitch is wrong for the starter motor gear to work & they jam. Sometimes the gears get stuck together and you have to turn the car motor backwards to free them, sometimes they free themselves when you let the key off and maybe start the next try. Its a different, much heavier click to a poor solenoid contact click as the solenoid gear is slamming into the flywheel, so you should see if you can feel or see that gear move.

" the starter just clicks." One click per key turn is the solenoid not putting power through, or the starter motor itself. Lots of clicks per key turn is a bad battery. I doubt it is in the key. Pull your spare starter solenoid apart, you will have to unsolder one wire coming out of the metal casing. Inside are two heavy copper contacts, the heads of the bolts where the cables go on. In the main part is a heavy copper bar that slams back and joins one contact to the other. They get burnt away from the sparking due to the 300amps going through them, so clean them up if black and burnt, then put a spring washer under the head of each and put it back in. Now you have pushed them closer to the bar and they should make good contact. https://www.autocornerd.com/where-do-the-wires-go-on-a-starter-solenoid/ "and the fan for the cooling turned on." ...and sort that problem out so it doesn't turn on by itself and flatten the battery.

Do you think that was a factory part when the car was new? ..or has someone fitted a European ignition system to it afterwards? If you're lucky its a common Neiman part shared with other cars in the 80s, so you could get a second-hand one in good condition, or a new one from another one-make car club. There are Ferrari ones for sale... Do you know what America used? The column should be the same as yours. Which part do you desperately need, and can you substitute wiring and contacts from generic electrical parts? How's your French? https://mtparts.fr/product-categorie/japanse-tractor-parts/suzue/electrical-parts-suzue/

Coil positive is ignition switch, that's where it all gets 12V from. Coil negative goes to distributor and tacho. The condensor joins the coil negative, either outside as in that photo, or inside on the points arm where the black negative wire goes, depends on the dizzy. So is timing set by putting the crank pulley at 10-15deg before TDC for number one cyl, then turning the dizzy until it sparks? ...or put your multimeter across the points and see the voltage change. Grab a cheap timing light when you can, they make life easy. So the plug covered in (fresh I assume?) oil was from the funny K motor 'plug cups' that spill oil down the plug holes when you take them out. So long as they have pretty much the same colour it means the cylinders are working evenly, and a darker one is probably the one that misfires. Try connecting the condensor and checking plugs straight after it misfires and see if you can figure out which cylinder it is. It might be just a plug lead or the distributor cap.

Maybe a cold engine problem then- so mixture is weak for cold running, or spark weak when cold and harder to fire. The condensor must be connected for it to run, it builds up a charge of electricity when the points are open and discharges it all at once when the points close, and that rush of power is the thing that fires the coil's high-tension side. The important thing is that the condensor and 12v wire from the coil -ve both go onto the points spring strap, and are insulated from the motor. You can pull the points open with your finger and see how bad the contact surfaces are, the sparking causes spark-erosion on one side and it hollows out, and the other side gets a volcano built up on it as the metal is spark-deposited. That gives a false reading on feeler gauges if you are setting the points gap on old points. When you fit new points, fit a new condensor too, as they lose their insulation strength over time and cause misfires... So check the condensor is connected, that there is no circuit from the moving points arm to earth when the points are open and the key is off, and the points gap is correct and so is the timing. Pull the spark plugs and see if all four are the same colour, maybe you have a dud cylinder. Then check the choke operation, which hopefully is a manual cable. Fully off when off, fully on when on. When it misfires next time you're driving, pull the choke on slowly and see if 1/4 choke helps, or 1/2 choke. Then you will know its lean when cold. If you have a leaking inlet gasket you should see different colours on the plug concerned, that could also make it miss when cold. See how you go- do you do your own tuning? ...so you have feeler gauges or a dwell meter, a timing light and a multimeter for testing circuits?