altezzaclub

Find as many prices for similar Corollas so you have a value in mind that you can demonstrate to them. If you want to have it repaired, bargain for the right to the car, as many companies pay it out then take posession and auction the wreck. I'd expect it takes a tiny accident to write these cars off, labour at panelshops is so expensive that minor accidents are writing off 10yr old cars now. I'm amazed as what I see at Great Western Wreckers. Best-case I expect will be to get a thousand bucks from the insurance company and retain ownership of the car. Then you need a mate who is a panelbeater to help you strip and repair it. A chassis machine can pull a chassis straight, or a donor car can be cut and the rear-end welded into place. Look up regulations for statutory writeoffs, you don't want the car declared that or it can't be repaired for the road again. Good luck-

Thanks for the offer Mullet, but a copy of the K gearbox part of the T18 book has just arrived from parrot! Its great to see these manuals still exist and are in circulation! I'll let you guys know if the gearbox shop comes up with some caged roller bearings.

Grab a vice-grip and when it cranks slowly just put the clamp on the lead terminal and see if it improves. It will charge through a small contact as it charges slowly, but spinning a starter motor takes a few hundred amps and good connections. - or swap batteries with another car for a few days and see if it is better. It may be a slowly dying battery.

"The best way is to install a proper temp gauge and use a thermometer to check its accuracy. " Yep- buy a 110deg thermometer for $10. Then idle the motor from dead cold to the maximum it gets to with the rad cap off and the thermometer in the top of the radiator. You can slip a sheet of newspaper down in front of the rad to help it as the motor isn't under load. Note down the temp and time it takes, and you will get a curve. If the temp gets to 100deg you have a problem, the cooling system just isn't up to it anymore. It should show cold, then quite quickly go to 75deg or so, and slowly climb to maybe 80 odd. Then you will know what temperature the marks on the gauge really mean. In pouring rain it shouldn't get hot at all.

The Locost guys have been onto it for years it seems- Motor mounts- http://mannylocost.blogspot.com/2009/10/engine-mounts-and-start-on-pedal-and.html J160 adapter- http://mannylocost.blogspot.com/2009/10/1zz-fe-engine-to-j160-gearbox-adapter.html The lack of block attachments for engine mounts is something I'd never thought of. His solution is not ideal, but I can't see any other way. Comments from a guy who owned one of those Rollas was that it was uninspiring but adequate in traffic going to work.. and an animal over 6000rpm when the dual valve lift/timing hit! So you wanted to drive it over 6000rpm all day. Someone else said there were chips to lower the cut-in revs. Old motors now, for blocks that can't be re-bored.

haha! yes banjo, I saw that too! it still didn't lead me where I wanted to go! I still have the K40 in bits and a fully disassembled K50 downstairs, but I didn't strip the K50! I popped into the local gearbox shop and they will replace the seal for $105/hour plus parts... That's the same as the first shop that stripped my first k50 and wanted to re-new everything! Anyway, Orange Auto reckon they can get bearings, so I will drop some bits down to him and if he can source parts I might get the dis-assembled one rebuilt. It needs metal-spray on the bearing surface to build it up, so it all might get too expensive. The one in the car.. well, I bought a can of Rislone transmission stop leak, so I'll toss that in and see if it helps. Parrot, if you could copy that part of the manual I would be grateful. There is no hurry right now, but when the Rislone gives up I'll need to do it. I also have the Gregorys manual that says "its all too hard, don't touch it!" Thanks guys!

I've just been down the wrecker this morning, he's got K40s and K50 sitting down there for $250... I reckon we will run out of them before we run out of Corollas.

The Hoonicorn has a leaky front gearbox seal & it can only be replaced by stripping the whole box from the back. If it didn't oil the clutch I'd ignore it! If anyone has the Toyota manual e-book that is floating around some very dodgy internet sites I'd love a copy. The last time this happened I took that box to a gearbox shop to replace the $10 seal and they gave me back a box full of bits saying it was irrepairable as they couldn't buy bearings... all I wanted was a seal put in! Thanks

You'd jump the T-series, they're too old & worn out, and go straight to a J160 6-speed. Then you need an adapter plate to fit it on the motor if at all possible with input shaft dimensions, and the room in the car to fit a rather large gearbox. We will all come to this problem as our K boxes can't be rebuilt as there are no bearings anymore, T boxes can't be far off the same problem, and there are no small RWD gearboxes in the Toyota range.

mmm.. drop into a KE70 nicely.. 225bhp if you buy the right motor! No wonder those Lotus' fly!

"that could be used as camshaft signal for the independent ignition. " The problem there is the slap in the gears between accelerating and decelerating. The timing signal would shift a few degrees each time. I suppose it would be as accurate as the timng is on a stock motor, maybe accuracy isn't that important. Banjo, can't you adapt the trigger in the K series electronic dizzys we use now?? It means a bit of metal sticking up from the flywheel edge and the sensor in the bellhousing rim like you planned, but a step further rearwards from the ring gear. It's a knife edge strip to give a sharp impulse, rather than your circular magnet that has a broad effect. Set it on the flywheel with epoxy and have a threaded mount on the pickup to move it within a few thou, like we do with the Terratrip sensors. Actually, they work on one of the four bolts in the back of the front discs, we just put a couple of washers under it to raise the head above the other three.

yep- 5 years or so back I took The Girls KE70 up to Cairns to fix up a rental house & sell it. Walking out of the supermarket I found a beautiful AE86 parked near the KE, and while I was looking it over the owner came back. He was my age, 60-something, a farmer out of town, and had bought it new. Said it hardly got driven these days as he and his wife both had SUVs and the AE was too hard to get in and out of... I'd only just got into Toyota and didn't attach any significance to AE86s, so never offered him the couple of grand he'd take for it!.. So... what should we be buying these days for 20years time??

Maaate.. they're rooted..! I'll give you $100 for them so I can use them for parts..! Actually, just what everyone said, they're not right, probably worn out/broken and you will have to strip them right down then find out how they work. Take the shocks out of the struts and start from there. Find out what doesn't fit properly and what doesn't tighten down correctly. Definately get the wheel alignment and don't run max negative camber! You will need more toe-in for every degree neg camber to even out the tyre wear across the tread, and those tyres will vanish quickly!

This one?

Ah- is it lacking space here?? This is a Redline single side-draught manifold, but I expect it has the same shape. It looks like you have to put the nuts on with the manifold held off the head 5mm or so, then tighten them up. Option B is some work with a grinder I suppose.