altezzaclub

Give it up you dickheads!

The mesh of the teeth on the starter and the flywheel can also load the motor a lot. If its all stock that shouldn't be a problem. If the block doesn't match the gearbox bellhousing in the same way it can jam the starter. You could check battery voltage with a multimeter, 12.5-13V sitting there, over 8V when cranking. The relay puts more amps to the solenoid & doesn't power the starter motor. Other than bad wiring I can't think of anything that makes a good starter smoke. Its possible both motors had poor windings or burnt solenoids. Did it crank over slowly or quickly?

Yes! I had this marked out on the old rally car and never got around to doing it. I was thinking about it yesterday for the new build, but I don't have the press for the ribs. Those low floor areas take such a hammering.

You changed the positive wire carrying the heavy current, but what about the earth to carry it back?? Make sure its the same size heavy wire and its bolted tight to motor and body. It needs good crimping on its terminals too.

The non-return valve (anti-drain back) is a rubber/plastic disc in the oil filter that stops the filter from emptying back to the sump. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html I was sitting here thinking of a K motor of course.. the T will have that crazy DOHC double chain setup that invites rattles from everywhere! I've only worked on 18RG engines with that, not a T motor, but I think they are similar. One 18RG we stripped had no plugs in the back of the cams, so the oil sprained out the back rather than being pressure-fed on the lobes. That still didn't rattle, I think centrifugal force threw enough oil out of the lobes to keep the tappets lubricated, but there was wear in the cam bearings. I expect the T motor has a dummy cam to run the oil pump & dizzy like the RG, but that will have a constant thrust on it from driving the gears and shouldn't rattle. Did the rattle start after the engine rebuild and it was not there before? I'd lean towards the upper cam chain tensioner if its anything like an 18RG. No oil pressure to hold it out at startup, then it goes quiet with thick oil pressure, then it gets sloppy with hot oil. Take a big screwdriver and put the handle to your ear, then put the blade on parts of the running motor. ..or buy a mechanics stethoscope if you like. You will hear some amazing noises from different parts of the motor, and it might narrow down the location of the rattle for you.

So, with no oil pressure at startup it rattles. With cold oil pressure up at 60psi it doesn't rattle With hot oil pressure at 30 psi, or 7psi at idle, it rattles again. Certainly suggests a clearance somewhere. Was the crank machined for the new main and conrod bearings? The Phillipines do some dodgy shit! Could a rocker be worn into a groove at the end and carrying too much clearance? Has the motor been recently assembled from the bearing replacements? The last month or so? Did the rattle start after the work on the engine? Check your oil filter & make sure it has a non-return valve. When I bought The Girls KE70 it didn't have one, rattled every morning at startup and wore the bearings out.

What! How Un-Australian! We must all pull together to survive this UN-mandated pandemic and if we put up with a little inconvenience it won't hurt us! Besides, we'll take the Army off the streets and won't have them stopping you to check who you are and what you are doing ...just as soon as this virus is gone! Vanished from the last faulty tests we are using that give completely unreliable results, but are a great excuse to do what we want! Maybe late June, you can all be dole-bludgers until then and we will just print money to give you. Of course we will never actually remove the laws from the books, we'll just "not enforce" them until the next pandemic when we need them, and in the meantime you can all enjoy the compulsory vaccinations needed as soon as we can make one. Road accidents killed 92 Australians in February, compared to 20-odd for the Coronavirus. The cost of keeping 10 or 20thousand older people alive for one more year has been 'the whole Australian economy', it will be years and years to build it back up.

What is not working on the car?? Here is a wiring diagram, its for the KE70 with a 4K motor, not the 2T. There are always differences in wiring between countries too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

Make a careful budget for this project, you'll probably spend a similar amount whether you use a K motor or a newer 16valve with twice the power. What Coln says is right, do up a K and enjoy it, it will cruise at 110kph, overtake cars with a bit of work, and even manage to go up most hills. However I figure you need a 4AGE to really keep up with anything. At Woolshed Rallying we have four 4AGE-powered KE70s and none of those motors have had a rebuild since they were bought. That makes their cost plus the T50 gearbox about the same as rebuilding a K motor. Even better, about $3000 will buy you an Altezza half-cut with the 3SGE and the J160 6-speed, but the associated engineering costs push this price up. 4K- 43KW (58 hp) at 5200 rpm and 90 N⋅m Hot 4K- 55-60KW, maybe 95Nm 5K- 53KW, 105Nm or so 4AGE- 95 kW 142 N⋅m 2ZZGE- 141 kW 181 N⋅m . The gearbox will be difficult! 3SGE- 154 kW 216 N⋅m

Yep- We did the basic stuff like that- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Makes a great little run-around, light & nimble.

Same as any conversion- drop the motor & gearbox in the hole, make new engine mounts to fit then make gearbox mounts. You'll want that tall engine as low as possible, we have the sump just below the cross-member in the rally car. You might have trouble getting the g'box past the steering rack, we drop the cross-member on its bolts to do that, although we're using a J160 box which has a big bellhousing. You will need to convert the cable clutch to hydraulic, or convert the g'box to cable. The AE71 pedal box is hydraulic and goes straight into a KE70. Then you'll need a new custom-made driveshaft and a new exhaust system. If you're having it injected you need to sort the wiring, which is why carbs are simpler. All of this thread applies as usual.. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/

Got some good photos... Now it a matter of grinding & welding.. I came back to Orange today for a dental appmt, and 50km out they ph'd and said the University is cancelling all the clinics. So, we should be back into it this weekend! Nothing unexpected broke, everything we manufactured worked well, especially the suspension, so its a case of copy it over and improve each piece a little.

Just a big bureaucracy, like they all become. Why doesn't the FIA issue reports of the hundreds of rally crashes with analysis of what failed and what didn't? That should be their real job. Anyway, the $140 of foam turned out to be as hard as the cage tube, it would dent your skull if you were on an open section with no helmet. The day went well, nothing broke, nothing fell off, people were impressed by how quick it was. Steve was running 1st in class B, & harassing the leader of the 2litres when the inevitable happened, and it came home like this- That was a short life! By this evening it looks like this- and by lunch tomorrow it will be out in the paddock and the next shell will be in the workshop! Rallying...

Well, amazingly enough the Purple People Eater was ready on time and the gang headed out this afternoon. 3Hrs down to the coast for the Love Motorsport Rallysprint, there's only one job left to do. Apparently Bunnings plumbing insulation foam tube at $2.50/M is no longer good enough to cover the rollcage, and we need FIA-approved foam tube at $70/900mm !! WTF! No wonder motorsport is full of rich wankers poncing around in their tailor-made driving suits having never held a spanner, and meanwhile no working man can afford to enter! When we asked which part of the regulations said that, we were told it wasn't in the regulations, but we will need it to compete... There is plenty of non-FIA approved padding for sale on the web and it a lot less to buy! So, which official hold the import licence I wonder?

Have you got wiring diagrams for it?? These- I don't know much about the FWD models, but converting my KE70 to 4AGE I just tied together a lot of various wiring diagrams from the net until it eventually made sense.