altezzaclub

Ah- you're 20years tooo late! This guy- http://www.theroaringseason.com/showthread.php?1596-Jamie-Aislabie/page3 Jamie not only built his own sports cars & raced them, but he built rally car motors for everyone else. I worked for him for a few months back in '86 when I returned to NZ. Even then he had turbo'd his wife's Honda Prelude and fitted it with water injection to stop the detonation. If he's still around he will have more knowledge on building old engines than anyone ese I know. Try the old age homes but don't tell him I said that! haha! Looks like he's still going! https://kartsportrotorua.nz/committee/

OK, so you don't need the air con or neutral circuits. It seems the battery permanently powers the injector resistors, the ECCS relay, the rad fan relay, the AAC valve and terminals #46 & 109 Ignition adds the coil, the wastegate solenoid, the fuel pump relay, the check engine light & terminals #36 & #34. Is that how it looks to you?

Have you got a wiring diagram for that particular motor at all? I have a couple on on the screen right now but they show different pin numbers for the same wires. Both are meant to be SR20DET. Was it an auto that the motor/ECU came out of?? That cutout switch is another twist in the wiring. Can you put it in diagnostic mode and see if it can read error codes? This diagram shows 104 for the fuel pump, so unless we have the correct diagram we're pissing in the dark.

Those relays are in the relay box- the circuit opening relay that cuts the fuel pumps in a smash, the fuel injection relay and the electric fan relay.. that's why I used it. If it wasnt Diahatsu it would've been whatever the next car was in the junk pile that I looked through, so any car with a fuel injection relay box will do. You can wire it up from scratch with Supercheap relays, but its a lot of work and ends up pretty untidy, like when I did my own headlight relay system. If you have the original engine loom you're well ahead.

T-series?? F?? G? How are your local wreckers?? My gearbox man, in telling me there are no bearings left in the world for K50s, said the wrecker out in Parkes is specialising in old cars pre-2000. How far do you want to drive? The Toyota banjo diffs would be a bolt-in or a simple mod for leaf springs. Do you want to put an LSD in there later?

Yeah, that would make sense. Probably a few similar models have the same COR relay box and similar plugs, even the FWD Pulsars should do. Did you get a loom with the motor?? Go watch the project binkie episode that was posted up today and see how they did the wiring.

I'm a fan of using the minimum too, unlike permatex in the video on this page! https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/ Nothing more annoying than finding some guy covered the whole motor in RTV. Get surfaces clean and dry, and one thin bead of RTV does anything. I just grab any RTV, bathroom, gutter, auto... I've used houshold ones on exhaust manifolds without problems. The only thing I look at is acetic acid cure or neutral cure. The anerobics in the video above sound good.

Brilliant shit! Such attention to detail!

Buy a thermometer and check the guage against a real temperature with it just idling from cold for 20minutes. We blew a head gasket with the temp gauge reading half and no water left. That will tell you if the water is up to 80deg, if the thermostat is working, and the choke should or shouldn't be working. As the Spirit man said, the choke would affect all cylinders equally. A more interesting outcome would have been from swapping the plugs from 1 & 4 into cyls 2 & 3 and seeing what happened. All you can do is drive it and see how the new plugs look in a week.

The main injector pump in The Girls KE70 hangs from a cut-down VL Commodore mount. Its a metal cross-piece with two detachable rubber mounts that bolt to another cross-piece, so it literally is suspended on rubber. You don't hear the pump in the car at all. The only photo is this one, not much of an illustration I'm afraid. I put the zip-ties on because I didn't trust the rubber, but if the system didn't work there would've be a lot of dead VLs on the side of the road 30years ago.. Ah- here.. http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/File:Fuel_pump_pressure_reg_.JPG

We use these on the rally car & on Steve's road Corona with DCOEs. Problem free, try to soft-mount them, fitted the rally car in the boot by the tank so it pushes, but Gramps' is in the engine bay so it sucks. Doesn't seem to make a difference... although I like them to push so there is no chance of air being sucked in. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/new-Fuel-pump-low-pressure-E85-Petrol-Diesel-Ethanol-Biodiesel-Facet-type/322545930611?epid=853553484&hash=item4b193c5173:g:iuAAAOSw03lY6Jh5

Difficult... rare as hen's teeth I'm sure. Have you checked with SU Midel/Fabre?? If you're lucky they copied the SU in all sorts of ways and that might be one of them. All you need is the thread, everything is able to be customised

Ah- A believer in string theory I see...

Yeah, new hose just in case. Then take the slave off, put the new hose into both cylinders & do it up, then put the slave back on. Saves that twisting.. While you're under there just make sure the clutch arm slides smoothly back & forth. There was one of those cars at the weckers a few years back, in the second-hand car yard part. Nothing wrong with it, drove OK, just well-worn, for $600..

Those sleeves are a nice idea Graeme, its good to know they work as advertised. The Corona pair we stripped last month were not corroded inside, but filled with tarry gooey mush. The main cylinder opens up with those two tabs you can see at the sides of the end cover disc. Give the business end a clout on a piece of wood while facing upwards and the first piston will come out. Then pull off the plastic reservoir & take out the bolt that holds it on, and that will allow the front piston to slide back out. Then undo that giant hex nut beside the main cyl and there are floating pistons in there that limit the pressure to the rear wheels. They were jammed on ours, so we fitted new seals to the main cylinder only. When we put it in the car no fluid went to the rear brakes at all, and only after a couple of weeks of driving did it free up and work. Those problems all stemmed from the cars sitting for years without being driven, so yours might be sweet. I expect all the cars at the wreckers who used those cyls will be just as bad inside, unless you're lucky enough to find one that has already been renewed. The booster just needs a wire brush, some brake-clean and a spray of paint.