Banjo

What is the "Head Number", which is part of the moulding, between no 3 & no 4 Spark Plug holes ? Was the head skimmed when it was last rebuilt ? Cheers Banjo

That is a "dream listing" ! 4K for a 4K; how poetical. So sad to see you've got to let it go, after all the work you've put into it. I wish the "4k" in your ad, stood for PNG kina currency. At todays rate, that would make it worth about AUD 1,530, & I'd be around to your place, before I could put the phone down. Good luck with the sale. How did you go with the body shell ? Did it sell ? I was tempted, but with 5 cars in my driveway, another would have triggered divorce proceedings, which should be avoided at all costs. Cheers Banjo

Been a couple of months, but it's been a slow & different year for everyone I guess. The Speeduino ECU underwent all the bench tests, & has finally migrated to the garage, & got hooked up to the 5K engine on the stand, controlling the ignition initially, in full sequential COP mode. After setting up the initial tooth wheel settings, the engine fired up, first time, & was rock steady, on the strobe timing light. The trigger clamp on the timing light, designed to go around a spark plug lead, would not go around the exposed COP tube. I used a work around, as pictured above, but discovered that the sensor would trigger the timing light, if it was placed close to the head of the COP. It worked perfectly. The removal of the distributor, requires it being replaced by a dummy drive shaft, to allow the camshaft to continue to drive the all important oil pump. An old 3K Denso dizzy cut down, with a 35mm cup type welch plug as a cover, provided a perfect dummy drive shaft. The synch pulse from the camshaft is provided by a Hall effect sensor that is mounted on the timing chain cover, detecting a single rare earth magnet, fitted to the camshaft sprocket. So a week or so, playing around with all the Speeduino settings, & then it will be onto the next stage, of fitting my 7K EFI throttle box & inlet manifold, & hooking up all the fueling requirements. P.S. For those of us, familiar with rotating the dizzy to set initial timing, & watching the timing marks jump backwards & forwards, at idle, due to the slop & take up in chain & drive to the dizzy; the first thing you notice about crank toothed trigger wheel triggering; is how rock steady & accurate it is. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, It would be highly unlikely that Toyota would switch a 15A circuit through the small switches in the lighting stalk. Put the 15A fuse in, switch the fog light stalk on, & then go look for a +12V signal somewhere. When you find it, pull the 15A fuse out, & make sure the +12V disappears. If there is no relay provided, then use this +12V switched signal to power a relay, which will feed another +12V fused circuit to your fog-lamps, as per the sketches, earlier in this thread. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, If there is a factory original harness down behind the fog lights, that is not used, then that is probably for the fog lights. If you have hooked it up, you will need to add a plug-in relay, for the fog-lights to work. Toyota would not provide a relay, if there was no fog lights fitted. However, the harness & relay/fuse box would be wired for fog lights, & all you should have to do, is add relay & fuse to the relay/fuse box. Should be a goer. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lewis, Is the headlight stalk, assembly, with fog light switch built in, identical to your currently fitted one, except the foglight switch function ? If so, & the plug at the end of it lead is the same as your current one, I see no reason why it can't be used. If the plug & socket is easily accessible, I'd be unplugging the installed one, & plugging in the "fog light" one, & see if all the light switching functions still work, before swapping them out. Cheers Banjo

Have dissembled & cleaned this Mazda 121 EGi (Electronic Gasoline Injection), cross between a carby & a throttle body. It appears to be made by Hitachi, including the TPS & MAF sensors. Trying to discover it's design criteria, & how it works. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a running Mazda 121, with an EGi "carby" fitted, which would provide a broader input, & something to play with, & take some measurements. However, I was able to download a free Factory workshop Manual, that did throw light into where all those ofrifices going in & out of the dicast body. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.manualslib.com/download/1031156/Mazda-121.html The whole design is quite simple, & does, (as I hoped) lack the tiny little internal passages in the dicaste body, like our common Aisin carby, with it's idle, low, & main fuel jets & paths within, which can be so problematic. The EGi unit, has a mechanical screw idle adjustment, with initial mechanical coolant temperature idle adjustment, when the engine is cold. Once the engine warms up, the electronic bypass valve comes into play. So the EGi is a mixture of olde world mechanical & new world electronic control. The EGi is manufactured in two pieces. The top casting includes the single injector & integral fuel rail. The bottom half is the throttle body proper. Top half of the EGI, viewed from the bottom, clearly displaying the single injector discharge point, smack in the middle of the venturi. Top view of the previous pic, The "fuel rail" passes straight across the casing, pressured fuel entering on the LHS, & the fuel pressure regulator, with return & atmospheric compensation on the RHS. The MAF sensor fits to the flat on the bottom of this pic. The resistive elements are in the hole are in the airstream through the dished hole, which then swirls around, & re-enters the venturi above the butterfly, through two openings. Same pic, but with the cover removed to show the injector snuggly fitted in the centre. Top view of the throttle body. The thermostatic idle control for cold engine is seen in the top RH corner of picture. I want to take the injector out, to ultrasonically clean it, but have not been able to remove it, as yet. It appears that you push it back up, but it won't budge, & I don't want to apply any more pressure, in case I crack or break the dicast "bridge" across the venturi. Suggestions welcome. From Manual: P.S. Just got it out. There are two (2) "O" rings supporting it, as I thought, but being old & hard, & stiff, they took a bit of budging. Here are pics, with injector removed. This is the cold engine idle control, which is disengaged, once the coolant reaches temp. Have measured it compressed length at room temp, then dropped it in a saucepan of hot water, withdrew it, & measured it again, to ensure it had expanded. Works well. One trick I found worked well, last night, while tracing the passage ways in the body, was to shine an LED pencil light into a hole, in a dark room, & then pier into the other holes, to see which ones were joined. There was enough reflection from the passageway walls, that you could see the light around bends & corners. Cheers Banjo

K50 Gearbox ex KE70 When I run a straight edge across the backstop flange, it just clears the heads of the bolts, that retain the front Bearing Cover to the gearbox case. That should allow the CSC assembly to pass over the bolt heads, without issues. I would suggest that the removal of the Clutch Fork Pivot head, would be an ideal point, to mount the location rod, that comes with the ACE CSC, to prevent it from rotating on the central spigot. The radial dimension from the centre line if the gearbox shaft, & the centre of the fork pivot ball, is exactly 50mm. Hopefully, the slot in the side of the ACE CSC, will accomodate this dimension. As long as the "depth" of the ACE CSC is not much deeper than 45mm, I can't foresee too many issues arising. The only requirement, I can see, to making this all work; is to match the Fixed Spigot OD, with the ID hole in the ACE CSC. I suspect, this spigot, may be a tad too small in OD, at 27.5mm. That surely can be fixed by pressing on a tubular sleeve, with an interference fit, then turning that sleeve down to the required OD. I'll contact Mal wood, this week, & see if the ACE unit is suitable. Hopefully, they have converted a Rolla GB, previously, & it's all go. Cheers Banjo

More can be found on the subject of CSCs (Concentric Slave Cylinders) at the link below, on another thread in this forum. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76019-ke70-cable-to-hydraulic-clutch/?tab=comments#comment-721367

More on the subject of Concentric Slave Cylinder conversions, can be found at this other thread on RollaClub https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77940-upper-thermostat-housing/#comments

That's a good idea. Funny how these threads start off in one area, & emerge into associated topics. I'll put a link in both topics, so anyone reading either, can find the other. Looking forward to any pics you have of your CSC (Concentric Slave Cylinder) conversion. Cheers Banjo

That's good ! I can't imagine that Catalytic Converters were fitted by Toyota, back in 1979. I like that wording of Historic/Classic, in the same sentence. I would regard our early Rollas, as classics, but never "historic". I went to an all British Car show in Sydney a couple of years ago, & there certainly were some "historic" olde cars there. Cheers Banjo

I've been looking at the ACE concentric slave clutch throw-out bearings, from Mal Wood Automotive, in Warwick Qld. https://malwoodauto.com.au/ These look to be well built, & are half the price, of the ones from the USA, as they don't require a new front gearbox bearing cover & spigot, for each specific type of gearbox. It has multiple ports for the hydraulic lines in & out. It has a simple locator slot, through which passes a threaded rod, that just replaces one of the bearing cap retaining bolts, to stop the assembly from rotating. Looks like it would fit my KE70 5 speed GB. Picture below is on a Supra GB. I've just had a look at a spare KE70 5 speed GB, I've got in the shed. It appears the spigot, which supports the bearing carrier, is about 27.5mm in diameter. I'd suggest that is probable a bit to small for the above unit. However, it should only require a simple tubular sleeve to be turned up, to make it fit perfectly. I'll clean out the KE70 GB bellhousing area, in the morning, & accurately, measure everything up. I'll then contact Mal Wood Automotive & see if, 1. They have ever done a concentric clutch slave cylinder throw-out bearing, on a Rolla clutch/gearbox, or 2. Whether the dimensions I provide, can be accommodated. If anyone on this forum has used these ACE units previously, please chime in, & let us know your experience with them. Sounds & looks promising. Cheers Banjo

Pretty strict there I think, from what I've read, although there are references to "whether you drive the car, in the cities like Phoenix & Tuson". Maybe if you live out in the sticks, anything goes, same as in Australia. I did read that old catalytic converters, are not to be sold, included in scrap metal. Did spot this one on the web. Cheers Banjo

Hi Misael, I'd definitely go "catless" ! With a pussy cat in your exhaust system, it tends to attract lots of other cats . . . . . . . . . . . & dogs. On top of that, the incessant meowing would drive you crazy ! Keep in touch Cheers Banjo