Banjo

The centre line between the two mounting holes, does not pass through the centre of the open area. It will probably bolt down OK, but will leave a slight gap on one or both sides, which will leak or blow, with minimal face to face, one or both sides. I'll try it tomorrow, & see. Cheers Banjo

No unfortunately. Definitely not symmetrical !

In theory, they visibly look like they are, (says He scratching his head), I'll have to go out ito the garage & try one. (too late in the day, is my excuse !) Cheers Banjo

Frankly, after all the K Series engines, I've seen on the net, & in real life; I can't remember ever seeing one with the top outlet spout, pointing towards the RHS. All the ones I've seen point towards the LHS; as on my 4K test bed engine below. That is definitely a 5K head. It was the only K Series head with two "knobs" in the casting under the end spark plug sockets, I'm led to believe. The crankshaft front pulley, looks as if it is 5K. The two sandwiched pulleies were common, as the 5K engines were used in Toyota forklifts & the like, & drove various pumps/compressors etc, off the additional pulley. However, the front camshaft sprocket cover, does not look 5K, as the timing chain marks are in the wrong place. Definitely get a top hose outlet, that points in the opposite direction. Will look so much better, in the engine bay. As far as I know, the bottom thermostat housings are all the same, as are the water pumps. Someone correct me, if I'm wrong. Have You had this engine running ? If the block is a 5K, then T.D.C. No 1, will be a bit out, if You line up the crank pulley timing nick, with the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket case. I covered this topic, in a post years ago, when I fitted a 5K crankshaft pully, onto a 4K engine. Cheers Banjo

Hi Liam, As the AM radio is working fine, the fault that is preventing You from receiving FM signals, is not fuse or externally related. I'm pretty sure the fault will be within the radio iteself; although a poor aerial connection, may allow AM stations that are strong, but prevent recption of FM signals. I've never taken one out of the "head units", so I'm afraid I can't help You there. It will require the removal to inspect. Cheers Banjo

I presume the wheel base dimension of the waggons, were a little greater than the sedan, so the tail-shaft would be longer, I would think. Have a read through this post of mine, from years ago; where I basically found there was little difference in any of the gearbox "length" dimenions, although gearbox mounting points could vary slightly. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74057-auto-to-manual-ke-55/#comment-714992 The only dimension, that could possible affect the swap; would be the distance of the tailshaft flange on the front of the diff, to the centerline of the diff, where the axles are. There were the "banjo" type" diffs, which usually were fitted to fully imported Jaspanese models. Quite often, Aust/ AAMI assembled Corollas, had Borg Warner diffs with split cases. Actually, I've got one of both of those, in the garage; so next time I'm out there, I'll take a measurement off both. The other way, is to temporarily mount the gearbox & diff, You are thinking of fitting, & measure the distance between tailshaft flanges. There is some adjustment in the splines on the front of the tailshaft, where it slides into the gearbox rear end, but I wouldn't use them unless about 3/4s of their spline lengths, were in contact. Cheers Banjo

Extra $ 250 gets You an AUTOMATIC ! When I bought my KE-30 (1974) 2 door from a little olde lady, it had a 2 speed auto in it, & 96K klms on the speedo. She couldn't have thrashed it; even if She wanted to. Didn't take long before I fitted a 5 speed gear box. Cheers Banjo

Hi Erica, This thread started nearly 15 years ago. I would hope that it has been sorted by now ! Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? Cheers Banjo

Came across this March 1968 Modern Motor magazine advertisement, this afternoon; which will bring a smile to some faces. Now Toyota Corolla 1100 gives you the choice - all synco 4-speed gearbox, or brand new-fully automatic Toyoglide transmission ! Slip the stubbyToyoglide lever into "drive". No need to change for traffic lights or hills. Automatic kick-down gives first gear acceleration for any emergency. Slip into "L" and Corolla holds first gear. You can't change from neutral to reverse accidentally. "P" for Park brake on the transmission. Flashing performance from Corolla's 60 horsepower engine. 36 m.p.g. plus fuel ecomomy. Built-in heater/ demistor . . . hipster reclining bucket seats . . . windscreen washers . . . 2 speed wipers . . . and more. Now have your excitement machine without changing gears ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tony, Have a read through this post, about 8 years ago, where this subject was covered. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73368-4k-change-pistons-to-flat/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/40853-what-pistons-are-these/#comment-433565 There are two types of 4K blocks. You have a simple 4K block. There is another 4K-U block, which developes more HP. I have one of those in my KE-30 2 door. There is a picture in the Toyota yellow K Series engine repair manual, which shows a picture of the mark on the piston, that must be positioned to the front of the engine. It depicts two A & B type pistons; the only difference; one being flat topped; & the other is partially dished; exactly the same as your photo. The little single dot indentation in your pistons, should point towards the front of the engine. There was also a 4K-C engine produced, that according to the Toyota workshop manual; were only exported to Australia & Sweden. The C, usually meant that the engine complied to Californian emissions regulations; as that state was, I believe; was the first state in the USA, to create emission requirements for gasoline engines. Cheers Banjo

Well, finally got around to wiring up the COP mounting bar. I wanted to make all the wiring from the COPs hidden, inside the rectangular section of the aluminium mounting tube. However, as the COP shafts pass through the rectangular section; it doesn't leave much room to squeeze all the wires past COPS near the end where the wires, all exit from the tube. I also didn't want to squib on the wiring size, for two reasons. I wanted pretty heavy wire for the ground & +12V supplies to the COPs, as there are reasonably high currents involved, & we don't want any voltage drops. Anyway, it all just fitted, so pleased with the result. The alternative was to add another wiring conduit or tube; & that would have detracted from the clean lines of the COP mounting bracket. Have powered them all up, & had them sparking perfectly with a test circuit, to fire the COPs, one after another. I also needed to identify the 4 off trigger wires, as I used the same colour (blue) for all trigger wires Because the spark plugs on the K Series engine, were recessed into the head, I wanted to seal this area, around the COP long tube; so no rubbish got down inside there, around the spark plugs. I couldn't find a commercial rubber bung of any kind on the nett, to accomplish this. On the original K series distributor HT leads, this "seal" was moulded into the leads. I cut the ends off an olde set of leads, & with a very sharp hobby knife cut out the inner part, so it left a hole to fit snuggly around the COP shaft. Just have to now fit it to my 4KU in my KE-30, & work out where to terminate & mount a connection block for the wiring & plug & socket, so the COP assembly, can easily be removed from the engine, so the spark plugs can be removed. It may however, be just as simple, to remove the 4 off COPs, & then remove the spark plugs, without removing the complete assembly. Once I've got it on the engine, I'll make that decision. I also found that the COPs mounting bolts, & the gold COP mounting frame, were not grounded ! There was about 6-7 Megohms resistance between them & the head. The COP mounting frame, is attached to the rocker cover. The rocker cover is actually isolated from ground, via the big rubber gasket around it's bottom edge, & the two bolts that attach it to the head. I found a little earthing strap, from the rocker cover to the head, solved this issue. One of the common issues with COPs, on modern engines; is that they overheat. This is particularly common, in twin overhead cam engines, wher the COPs are "buried" down inside the head body, with little or no air flow around them. This will not be an issue, with my setup, as there wil be plenty of air flow over almost all the COP assembly. Once it is on the car & in use, I'll check the temperature of No:1 & No:4 COP bodies, & see whether there is any difference. Cheers Banjo

Hi John, Sorry, I went & looked again, & You are right that Bunnings do not seem to stock it. My error. When I took a look again the one Bunnings market, looks very similar, in a yellow & read container, & is called Ranex RUSTBUSTER.

Thanks Pete ! I must have been living under a rock; as I've never come across KBS Rust Blast previously. Sounds like good stuff. It's even available at Bunnings, apparently. This is what Google says about it . . . Thank You for that pointer. I'll try it out very shortly, as my bonnet has a few sections that need treatment. Cheers Banjo

Glad You are into it ! Hope is addictive, & not too despressing. I'd really be concentrating on the structural bits first, as they are the most important, after all. Shame to do all the surface & visual pieces, & then find later on, that there is a structural section, beyond repair, & that all the visual; non structural clean up, was in vain. A simple rotisserie would be good, so it is easy on your back. No fun working upside down, when You get to the underfloor area. Metal Rotisserie Wooden Rotisserie Cheers Banjo

Hi Tony, My guess is; that now You will want to calculate the new "compression ratio", of your 60 thou bored engine. This is a little more complicated, depending on whether you have flat top pistons; or pistons with domed or concave top faces. This calculation, should also take into account the thickness of the head gasket, once torqued down, to be truly accurate. Here is a variety of sites tackling this question, if Your interest requires this information. How to Calculate the Compression Ratio Obviously, if you bore the engine, & leave the combustion area in the head untouched; the compression ratio, will increase. Question is; by how much ? This link here on Rollaclub, from over a decade ago, might help ? https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69246-4k-engines/ Cheers Banjo