Banjo

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Banjo last won the day on November 20

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  1. Hi Madelaine, There is nothing like a good long country run, to allow any gremlins to surface, in an olde engine. You said, "she only overheated twice". What were the driving conditions during when there was these two occurrences ? Going up over a range or mountain ? Stuck behind a big truck ? Forced to drive in a lower gear ? The circumstances might give us an idea of what it might be going on. As she ran fine most of the time, I would tend to discount the horrible head scenario. Inspection of spark plugs directly after a run, will usually indicate whether water has entered a cylinder, with a very clean plug, in the offending cylinder. If it was me, I'd be removing the thermostat for the day, & see if that makes a difference. If it was a 35 deg C day, it should not make any difference, as I would expect the thermostat to be open most of the time under those conditions. Removal of thermostat is an easy 10 min. job. Just check the specs of the radiator cap, usually stamped into the metal, on top. Even relatively new thermostats have been known to fail. My guess is the run has loosened some crapp inside the engine, & it has created a blockage somewhere, "throttling" the flow of coolant. My other best guess, is a partially blocked radiator, that has enough flow to run under normal conditions, but not enough to handle an extreme day. Maybe just take the bottom hose off, and put a hose in the top spout. Turn the tap on full, and check the radiator gets it all through to the bottom. If the radiator overflows at the intake at top, it may indicate a reduced flow, due to partial blockage, or build up internally. Cleaner, run, then flush, could fix it, but the safer bet is to get a radiator shop to check & flush, or give it a core clean. Lets know what you find. P.S. I assume, you have checked the fan belt tension. Does your dash temp guage work OK ? Was it running hi all day, without going into the red zone, when she was running fine ? Cheers Banjo
  2. Found this wiring diagram on the net. It is for AE71 lamps only. https://rollaclub.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/monthly_08_2014/post-7544-0-45827600-1407715211.jpg Here is the "legend" for the wiring diagram. Cheers Banjo
  3. Odd acting battery light

    They are brushes, not bushes. A bush is a bearing in an alternator context, where a brush is something that "brushes" as it slides/rubs on the slip ring. If you tell your auto sparkie you need new bushes, he'll quote you quite differently, than for fitting new brushes. Brush change/replacement is easy, as long as the slip rings are in good nick & haven't gone slightly oval. Cheers Banjo
  4. Intake/Exhaust Manifold Torque Settings?

    Aftermarket extractors have an advantage that they are separate from the inlet manifold, & pull up to the head independently. However, the flange tips of the inlet manifold & extractors can be different depths, making it difficult to get a thick washer to pull down firmly, & parallel to the head. You could probably grind down the thicker flange tip on the outside to match. If you have a standard setup, then the inlet & exhaust manifolds are bolted together, with 4 off bolts. If you can loosen these slightly (good luck), then pull the manifolds up to the head, (without gasket) then tighten the 4 off bolts holding the manifolds together. Remove the manifolds from the head, & they should now be in the same plane, across the mounting faces. The problem with this suggestion is that the 4 off bolts will be so tight in the threaded section, (which is in the exhaust manifold), that they will break off, whilst trying to undo them, & then you have the need to drill them out & retap them. Cheers Banjo
  5. Intake/Exhaust Manifold Torque Settings?

    Are Timaru ! In another life, I once owned a Triumph 2500PI (Petrol Injection). Great car ! I can still remember the first time I ever visited N.Z. Just couldn't get over the number of British Cars ! Now, it Japanese second hand imports. P.S. ebay link for 1 piece composite K series manifold gaskets. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1974-1978-For-Toyota-Corolla-KE30-3K-3K-H-Extractor-Manifold-Gasket-/201510257673?hash=item2eeaf28409 From the Rollaclub Tech Pages: Exhaust Manifold The stock exhaust manifold is alright if you're just playing around trying to get your car running nicely. There are two types of stock manifold, one has just one outlet pipe, the other has two pipes and is similar to tri-y (4-2-1) extractors. Generally, as you add a larger cam, you need to have tuned length extractors and a larger exhaust in place, or all the extra air your engine is now moving is too much for the stock manifold to hold, and the exhaust gases pulse back up against the inlet charge and fuel comes back in a fine mist out of the carburettor. Any extractors will do, new ones are about $280. You can pick second hand ones up for $50-$100, or sometimes even free if you're lucky like me. Second hand extractors tend to be a pest, in that either the middle pipe has bent out and doesn't like to seal, or the end pipe (usually the rear) is bent from a poorly hung exhaust pulling on it for so many years, and is hard to line up with the head. I've always used second hand extractors which I got for free, and by far the best thing you can do to make the manifold easy to locate and seal is use studs and nuts instead of bolts. This also puts a more even force over the threads of the head, so you're less likely to strip a thread. The normal two-piece manifold gasket can also cause sealing problems if the middle pipe is bent, but an exhaust shop should be able to sell you a one-piece extractor gasket which is much better. You can get metal ones which are alright, but I like the floppy asbestos type gaskets which are difficult to get these days. If your manifold gasket just won't seal, there's a chance the flanges of the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold (or extractors if you're using them) are different thicknesses. Any engine builder or machine shop should be able to grind the faces of the manifolds together for you, to ensure they're flat and sealing properly. This should cost you between $40 and $80. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________] PERASEAL do a one piece gasket, which has the P/N EM30, available through Bursons here in Australia. I've used them on all my Rollas, & have never had a manifold issue since. Cheers Banjo
  6. Odd acting battery light

    Your alternator is one with an inbuilt regulator. (that grey plastic bit on the back of the alternator). Only 2 screws to remove to take it off, after disconnecting the battery. Brush assembly & regulator are all one piece. Easy to remove & inspect. Brushes are easy to replace. With the regulator removed, have a look inside the hole, if possible, & take a look at the condition of the slip rings. A quick turn with a bit of 400 wet & dry emery paper will usually have them shiny again. P.S. I did it once on the side of the road. Brushes were worn. Stretched the springs a bit & put it back together again. Got me home OK. Cheers Banjo
  7. Intake/Exhaust Manifold Torque Settings?

    If you've got bolts holding your manifolds to the head, it is a good idea to replace them with studs & nuts. whilst doing that, also get a one piece manifold gasket. That will get rid of any manifold issues for a long while. P.S. Timaru NZ; nice place, I've been there once. Cheers Banjo
  8. Odd acting battery light

    .Most likely the brushes on the slip rings have got to the end of their life and are not making constsnt contact with the slip rings occssionally. Easy fix. Cheers Banjo
  9. Hi Jeremy, You might want to look at something like this, if you've got a good flat straight road nearby. http://www.ddisoftware.com/ttdyno/ Cheers Banjo
  10. Hi Jeremy, I'll dig some stuff out, in the next day or so, that has worked for me, on my KE30 2 door, with a relatively stock 4K-U engine. Cheers Banjo
  11. http:// 4 cylinder cars have famously un balaced motors with resonant vibration problems, so hence the term buzz box My kids when they were small, got driven to school and back each day, by my wife in her KE55 Coupe. The kids nick-name for the KE-55 was "BUZZIE" ! Say no more. Cheers Banjo
  12. pics and vids of some engine functions

    Yikes ! Sounds like Cavite could be a good holiday destination for serious Rollaclub members next year. Take 2 empty suitcases & fill them up. Found 7 things to do whilst in Cavite. https://trip101.com/article/things-to-do-cavite-city-philippines Maybe they should add an 8th thing to do. 8. Pick up some cheap 4K parts for your Rolla back in Ozz ! SPOT THE 4K & WIN A FREE TRIP TO CAVITE FOR CHRISTMAS ! Love it. Cheers Banjo
  13. pics and vids of some engine functions

    Hi Jeremy, Just checked out your video of the Jeep. I can see your problem right away. You forgot to put your suitcase in the second boot / trunk there in front of the radiator. What the Hell ! Do they put straight 6 cylinder engines in these "jeeps" also ? Cheers Banjo
  14. pics and vids of some engine functions

    That's insane ! I've never heard anything like that in all my Rollas over many years. My Jacuzzi with a party going on, doesn't even make that much noise. There is something seriously wrong inside that engine. Can't believe all that noise, is caused by a a 0.5 liter of air trapped somewhere inside the block. That's serious cavitation, like when a outboard motor propellor is lifted part way out of the water. Cheers Banjo
  15. pics and vids of some engine functions

    Hi Jeremy, Nice thongs ! We should probably point out to others looking at your post pics, that the long reach plug is only suitable for the 4K-U engine, & not other 4K variations like the common 4K-C. The long reach plug is only used where dished pistons are utilised. How about a few pics of your "jeep". Cheers Banjo