Banjo

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Banjo last won the day on April 23

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About Banjo

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    " LONG LIVE THE KE "

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    Greenbank / Brisbane

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  1. That's why I asked earlier in this thread, whether the boring out of the block, to fit the liners, ever broke through into the water jacket, in the area you are mentioning. I once read, that modified engines for 1/4 mile dashes, just fill up the water jackets with "Araldite", or something similar, to prevent the cylinder walls flexing, when they are bored to the limit, & become very thin. Cheers Banjo
  2. Hi Jeremy ! So where is the missing link ? Did you retrieve it, or is at the bottom of the sump ? To my knowledge, the chain is all one piece, with no removable link. That's why it is necessary, when fitting, to attach the chain, to the two sprockets, then slide them onto their respective shafts at the same time. The joiner pins in your pics, don't show any sign of wear, adjacent to the missing link, if it was rubbing against something. Was that how you found it, or was there some broken bits, still attached to the chain. I'm interested, as I've never heard of a K series chain breaking. Cheers Banjo
  3. Having just completed my KE30 4K-U Thermofan Conversion, using a Toyota Echo Radiator & fan, I have a few radiator related items in excess for my requirements. The radiator was recored about 2 years ago, & is still in very good condition, & was working perfectly, when removed from the KE30, a few weeks back. It has a radiator cap (13 PSI) that is relatively new, & works fine. Comes complete with all mount bolts. Will suit both manual & auto KE Rollas. $ 55.00 pickup south side Brisbane. Will post if necessary, but postage will be at buyers expense. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the two piece shroud that attaches to the rear of the radiator. It is in good condition, & has no dings or damage whatsoever. Comes complete with mounting bolts. $ 15.00 pickup south side Brisbane. Very bulky for postage, but I could dissemble into two pieces & arrange postage at buyers expense. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Two (2) radiator overflow bottles, with mounting bracket. Very good condition. No cracks or breaks. $ 15.00 pickup south side Brisbane, for all three (3) pieces). Can arrange postage at buyers expense. If someone wants to buy all items in this listing, then the price is $ 75.00 total, pick up south side Brisbane. Send me a PM, if you have any questions or queries. Cheers Banjo
  4. Hi Jeremy, Thanks for that info. That's great, & I'm now much better informed. Do they also produce these cylinder sleeves for the 5K, which has have a nominal bore of 80 mm ? The advantage of oversizing the piston & bore, when an engine gets to that point in life; is that you finish up with a slightly larger swept volume in the cylinder, which with the same head & gasket thickness, increases the C.R. a bit. If you skim the head at the same time, that also increases the C.R. P.S. Actually, I just looked up the Toyota factory "Yellow Bible", for the 2K-3K-4K-5K, & it says you can oversize 3K & 4K blocks to 1.0mm, but only 0.50mm for the 5K. That indicates, that to fit the sleeve, with a 2mm wall thickness, you would have to bore the block cylinder out a whole extra 1.00mm, in excess of the normal maximum o/s bore size of 1.0mm. If that doesn't result in breaking into the water jacket, then there appears to be quite a bit of "meat" in those cylinder walls, in the block castings. Cheers Banjo
  5. How wrong those "deriding" individuals; (time has proven), they were to be !
  6. Very interesting, how local conditions in a particular part of the world "spawn" a whole different way of fixing an everyday automobile issue of the engine bore eventually wearing out. I had the house to myself last night, as wife was interstate visiting son, & daughter was working all weekend, & staying with friends. So I "binged out" on the complete 5 episodes of MCM of the Honda VTEC B16 engine transplant, into the Japanese Mini Minor, which is a classic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ8RLM8eWRU So I'm Googling after that marathon, on the difference between Honda & Toyota variable valve timing techniques VTEC vs VVT-i, & all the other variates of those that have come since. I also Googled which was the better, & that was a good read, from both sides of the perennial argument. In doing so I came across a website, which lists all the Toyota engine variants that were offered to Russian Toyota customers. http://toyota-club.net/files/faq/03-08-16_engine_eng.htm It describes the good & bad points of each engine series marketed there in Russia. There was two particular comments, that drew a smile. The other was the comment, regarding our beloved K series of Toyota engines. So that got me thinking about another series of Toyota engine in the 1.3 - 1.8 Litre range that could ultimately be used to transplant into a KE Rolla, with all their later technology advantages. I've broached this subject before, when I fell in love with the NZ-2FE & NZ-1FE engines used in the Echo & Yaris cars, which after 2004, had a pretty good VVT-i setup. The problem with all these engines, is that they come from east-west front engined cars, & placing them in a north-south orientation, requires a very difficult, if not impossible requirement, when it comes to a gearbox adaption, & engine mounts. Maybe, simpler to drop in a late model MX-5 engine + gearbox, and be done with it. Jeremy's comments regarding the sleeving of K Series engines in the Philippines, reminded me that the NZ-1FE Toyota engine is a sleeved engine, in an aluminium block. I've never really thought about that, as I've never had to sleeve an engine in my whole life. A little research on the NZ-1FE engine, appeared to indicate, that the engine cannot be re-sleeved, after the bore is finally worn out. According to some comments I read, once the NZ-1FE engine bore is worn out, the block is a throwaway. What really surprised me, that Toyota originally, apparently, only designed this particular engine series, for a life of 200,000 klms. As my daughters Echo has clocked just over 195K klms, that point is fast approaching. However, maybe Toyota were being too conservative, as forums indicate, many Echos & Yaris Toyotas have achieved 250K - 350K klms with no major mechanical engine repairs, other than regular service. I would believe those figures, as I did a major service on my daughters Echo last weekend, after changing the clutch, (which is another story), and found oil colour, spark plugs & everything in extremely good condition. I whipped the induction idling actuator off it, & soaked it, to clean it thoroughly, as these do become an issue, & there was a belt that squeaks, for the first 5 mins of run time, which indicates it is on the way out. So it will probably do another 20-25K klms again this coming 12 months, without issues. Here's an interesting comment regarding the common Echo/Yaris squealing on a cold start up, that I am experiencing. The sound in this video, is exactly what I'm hearing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRrVMtyIqIY It is not the battery; that was brand new last week. But getting back to the sleeving of K series engines. I think oversized pistons come in sizes up to +50 thou., where I would imagine the cylinder walls start to get a bit thin. Could you then fit a sleeve, & does boring the block out, to take the sleeve, break through into the water jackets ? As I say, I've no experience with sleeving K series engines. Also, as sleeves, then allow standard piston size to be fitted, can you then re-bore a sleeved engine, to take oversized pistons, after the sleeve has worn out to its limit ? Any comments or info appreciated. Cheers Banjo
  7. Hi Jeremy, I've seen some loose timing chains, on K Series motors, but never a broken one. Have you still got the chain, & can take a picture of the break ? Was there any indication as to why it broke ? P.S. Just be thankful you didn't have a timing chain like this one break. This is a V12 Lamborghini Diablo engine from 1993. Cheers Banjo
  8. Hi Jeremy, You can buy the whole timing chain kit on line, which includes both sprockets & tensioner & guide. There are some good aftermarket ones available like Rollmaster, but I'm sure in your part of the world, you have access to more Asian ones. I've always upgraded all my K series engines to double row timing chains. Eventually, the chains stretch, & the rubbing block on the tensioner wears down to the point, where the tensioner at full extension, is no longer effective. I've even heard & seen a K series engine, where the timing chain noise was so loud, as it was slapping against the inside of the timing chain cover. Removal of the cover, & the marks on the inside of it, confirmed this. Even my olde 3K engine, I'm converting into a coffee table, has a double row chain on it. I think they were standard on the 3Ks, but then went to single row on 4K & 5K engines. Seems strange change. Maybe someone will correct me on that. Cheers Banjo
  9. Hi Jeremy, Great description ! I could also smell & feel the cow poo ! Been there, & done that, but not for a broken chain, but to replace the front crankshaft seal in the timing chain cover. Were the very front two (2) sump bolts, actually bolts, or threaded studs with nuts ? I can remember, mine being nuts & threaded studs. The studs were too long to allow the cover to clear & come off. There was just enough room on mine, to put two (2) nuts back to back, on the stud very tightly, to allow me to extract the whole threaded studs. Needless to say, they were replaced with bolts. Probably a reasonable amount of room in your "jeep" from pics you have posted in the past, of that area. Not much room in a Rolla, although, after removing the radiator & sump stone guard, it is possible, but you finish up with a kinked neck, for a day or so. Regarding the the oil squirter feed for the timing chain. Yes there is one. It is a small hole drilled into one side of the timing chain tensioner, which works off engine oil pressure. It is directly in line with the chain. It doesn't have a "squirter tube or spout" fitted, like some older car engines. It is just a little hole. They can block up. I've always dissembled the tensioner, soaked in in kero overnight, & run a straightened paper clip wire through it, until it was clear. Don't be tempted to drill it out, as it's size is critical, as you don't want to bleed tensioner oil pressure away from the tensioner piston. P.S. Was the timing chain that broke, a single or double row type ? Cheers Banjo
  10. Hi Ali, Thanks for letting us know, all is good now. Love a happy ending. Cheers Banjo
  11. Ali, Have a look at a post on the 30th April in the following thread. The sketches there might assist you. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73975-no-ignitionissues/ Cheers Banjo
  12. Banjo

    WTB: 2tc or 3tc running

    Nothing a little degreaser won't fix, by the looks of it ! I see you have already polished the brass hose fittings on the thermostat housing. Cheers Banjo P.S. Where are you located ?
  13. Banjo

    Ke20 fuel line.

    Venting the fuel tank to atmosphere hidden in the chassis rail, is not acceptable by any current environmental or emissions regulations. Anything was pretty much acceptable when KE20s were built. However, when Australia accepted the Californian emissions standard for automobiles in the late 60s/ early 70s, Rollas supplied to the Australian market changed in this area. The Californian emissions standards at that time were the, I believe, the strictest in the world. There were no Charcoal canisters on KE20s. From my knowledge, they didn't appear on Australian Rollas, until the late 70s. My 1978/79 KE55 Couple had a charcoal canister, as standard. If you get your "modified" KE20 inspected for registration, in any state in Australia, I'm pretty sure any astute inspector, would knock it back, if the fuel tank was vented to atmosphere, in the chassis rail. You could do as Altezzaclub has suggested, or acquire a charcoal canister, & plumb it through that, to the chassis rail. A quick talk to a accredited compliance engineer, in your area, would put you on the right track. Cheers Banjo
  14. Banjo

    Ke20 fuel line.

    Hi Monk, If you get a fuel breather non return valve, from another later model KE Rolla, complete with bracket, you can mount it under the bolt on the steering box. I might even have one floating around in the garage. I'll take a look tomorrow. Here's a pic of Brodie's great engine bay, (Rollaclub member in S.A.), clearly showing how he just ran a tube/hose from the non return valve up & over the rocker cover, & into the induction system. Cheers Banjo
  15. Banjo

    Ke20 fuel line.

    The breather/overflow for the fuel tank, on the very early Rollas was fed into the channel rail at the rear of the car. On one Rolla coup I once saw, it passed right up into the roof area in a loop, (to prevent siphoning), before the end was directed into the rear floor/chassis channel. I did not know they ever fitted fuel tank breather hose, which exited to the rail in the engine bay area. Seems strange ? My KE30 2 door has a fuel tank breather hose that comes to the engine bay, but enters the air filter via a non return plastic valve. I'd do something similar with it if I was you. That's the valve in the pic above attached to the steering box. A tube from there goes up to the air filter. Cheers Banjo