Banjo

Hi Gavin, Nice to see your name pop up again. Cheers Banjo

https://www.msn.com/en-au/motoring/performance-cars/the-fantastic-cars-that-put-the-world-on-wheels/ss-AA29tSGB?ocid=msedgntp&pc=U531&cvid=6a7abfff2b914bd7ae32f0c0e9b7e38b&ei=86#interstitial=7 You'll love some of these ! P.S. And "yes", there is a Corolla in there ! Cheers Banjo

Yeah ! Very much for "show only", & quite a few things needed before it heads off to it's destination, as Taz mentioned. Hmmm ! Interesting mounting of the four (4) C.O.P.s. They look like Denso style COPs.. I can assure you they do not sit that low in the spark plug tubes; unless they have been cut down in length. If they are, Denso COPs, then it is for show, as the primary & secondary coils are wound on top of each other, down the long tubular section of the COP, which pokes down the spark plug well in the head. The only COP type that you could use is a type that has the coils in the head of the dumb COP; & nothing but a long spring in the tubular section. I've just recently given away the "intelligent" COPs, as they combine the chassis ground connection for both the +V trigger signal return; & the coil charging +12V chassis ground return. I've just done some tests on a Ford Falcon BA series "dumb" COP, which has no ignition or smarts in it at all. It has just a primary & secondary coils in the "head section", which is taller than your average COP; as depicted in the photo below. The stork on the BA series Ford COPs, contains just a long spring to transfer the HT voltage to the spark plug. Actually, the Ford BA series COP could be shortened so it just stuck out of the spark plug well, like those in the "engine bay" photo above. Might have to give that a try. The mounting rod looks really simple, with four "pads" welded on to secure the COP hold down bolt. P.S. These BA Series Ford dumb COPs, really pack a punch. I've recently done some tests on one, & is packs a real punch, & charges up to 12 amperes, in just 4-5 m/sec. Cheers Banjo

Toyota Land Cruiser - 999,999 klms Chers Banjo

I do it for the same reason. Quite often, when I ask Google A.I. to research something, about olde Corollas; it will find the answer I need, & list on the RHS; all the websites it has visited & searched, to obtain the answer. www.rollaclub.com, is often amongst the listed sites. In fact, I just asked Google A.I. which are the best websites, & rollaclub.com, was listed first, & right at the top. Cheers Banjo

Thanks for the photos. Very nice neat & well constructed exercise,. Cheers Banjo

Always been an issue with K Series manifolds, where mixing & matching of manifolds has taken place over the years; even without extractors being fitted. If you've got some stud spare length, as your picture depicts; I would get a bit of flat bar, about 5mm thick. Drill a hole in it, so that it fits over the stud, & then carefully cut to length, then file a step in it, to accommodate the difference in the manifold thickness, at the mounting point. That's what I did, & have never had an issue since. there is a 1 - 2 hours required, but worth getting it right. Cheers Banjo

There is a bit of info on here, from others, in years gone past. I went through this exercise, about 13 years ago. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65673-strut-indentification/#comment-654673 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/63524-ke-3055-brake-upgrade/ I'll see if I can't dig out any more links for You, that might assist. Cheers Banjo

With so many electrical problems, I'm afraid You are probable looking in the wrong places. You note that each place item You looked at individually, looked OK, or tested out. So if none of those things test negative, or faulty, then the fault is elsewhere. I personally, would start at the other end of the chain, where all electrical items are powered from. The battery; & in particular it's terminals & all main fuses, or fusible links. Unfortunately, many decades ago, when these cars & were designed & built; they rarely used relays to switch currents to things like lights & horns etc. etc. On high current draw items like headlights, the high current travel from battery, through switches on the steering wheel stalk, they often burnt out or deteriorated the small contacts. I had similar problems years ago, & eliminated them easily, by fitting replays, & changing all bulbs to LED types, which draw much less current. Yes it took, a couple of weekends; but since then, I've never had an ounce of trouble. If the problem is in the steering wheel stork switches, then that will have to be replaced. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/84874-k-series-alternator-upgrade/#comments Cheers Banjo

From your latest advice, I'd say it is definitely ignition related, although it would not hurt to carry out the fuel pump tests, suggested, anyway. As it is intermittent, I'm going to have a guess that it maybe ballast resistor related. There are a lots of things in the ignition system that can go wrong. Only way is check it from ignition switch to spark plugs & everything inbetween. We've come across some "doosies", over the years. Cheers Banjo

Could well be either fuel starvation, or an electrical issue, like Altezzaclub suggested ? I'm going to suggest something slightly different. The olde mechanical fuel pump, on the engine, unfortunately gets little attention. Again unfortunately; they suck, fuel all the way up from the tank. You only need a small hole in the diaphragm; or crack in the fuel line; to have them give up. My initial suggestion, is to ensure you have fuel feed to the carby. Take all four spark plugs out & disconnect the power feed to the ignition coil. Unscrew; the fuel inlet pipe to the carby, slightly. Only do this test, with a cold engine. Crank the engine, & see if any fuel comes out at the carby. If not, or very little, then remove the fuel tank cap, & try again. If removing the fuel cap results in fuel now coming out; then it could be the tank breather is blocked. If still no joy; then it is time to remove the fuel pump, & check the diaphragm for holes or cracks. If still no obvious reason, then I suggest taking the inlet line to the fuel pump off, & blowing back to the tank, with the fuel cap removed. A second person should hear the bubbling at the open filler cap. If the line is free, then your attention should turn to the carby and the fuel cut-off switch solenoid, which I've had fail many years ago, in outback NSW. If still no joy, then time to remove air cleaner & the top of the carby, & remove jets etc. & look for blockages. If all that fails, then check the contact breaker (points) gap in the distributor. If the rubbing block on the points wear badly, You can get to a point when the engine is running the points open enough to run the engine; but at idle they barely open. Let us know how You go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Michalis, The relay conversion, for switching the headlights on & off, will be one of the simplest, easiest modifications, You can do, for your Corolla ! Cheers Banjo

That is a strange one. Have you upgraded your headlights or the bulbs recently ! There is no headlight relay in the early Corollas. The headlight current passes through the contacts in the headlight switch on the column. I can only suggest that when the headlights are switched on, the +12V to the dash assembly drops off somewhat. The fuel guage is fed by a regulated voltage less than 12V, so that the guage always reads correctly. Are the headlights a bit dull also. I would measure the +12V at the steering column, with the headlights on & off, & see what the difference is. The regulator for the fuel guage can use a 7, 8, or even 10 volt regulator If the head lights are dropping the +12V supply to the dash, to less than 10 volts, that may be what is causing it.. My suggestion; is to have the headlight switch control an automotive relay only. Use the relay's contact to switch the +12V directly from the battery, via a 15A automotive fuse; to the headlights. P.S. Have a read of recent thread, which may help you shed some light on the issue. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/85671-ke55-cluster-not-working-properly/#comment-738595 Cheers Banjo

Sorry, I don't know the answer to that one, as I've never come across that previously. My KE30 2 door sedan; started life, with a 3 speed automatic gearbox; which shortly thereafter, got changed to a 5 speed manual gearbox. I never noticed that it made any difference to the speedo readings. My believe is that the speedo drive comes off the final shaft out of the gearbox; & the gear ratios have no affect on it at all. The only difference I can see making any difference to the speedo reading; is if the diff ratio has been changed, at some time; or larger wheels & tyres have been fitted. Wouldn't be hard to work out, how far out the speedo reading would be, if you knew the orgininal & replacing diff ratios. Gets a little bit more complicated, if you change wheel & tyres sizes, as well as the differential ratio. Others on here may have gone through this exercise, & may like to comment. Cheers Banjo P.S. I'm guessing You have removed the speedo cable; checked it for breaks or wear, & also the little nylon gear, that slides into the rear of the gearbox.

For those of You, who might find the advertisements small print a bit hard to read, I've typed it out, here below. Now Toyota Corolla 1100 gives you the choice- all synchro 4-speed gearbox, or brand-new fully automatic Toyoglide transmission ! Slip the stubby Toyoglide lever into "drive. No need to change for traffic lights or hills. Automatic kick-down gives first gear acceleration for any emergency. Slip into "L" and Corolla holds first gear. You can't change from neutral to reverse accidentally. "P" for Park brake on the transmission. Flashing performance from Corolla's 60 HP. 36 m.p.g. plus fuel economy. Built-in heater/ demister . . . hipster reclining bucket seats . . . windscreen washers . . . 2 speed wipers . . . and more. Now have your excitement machine without changing gears ! Cheers Banjo