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Banjo

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Banjo last won the day on April 26

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  1. Hi Wil, Welcome aboard. That might be a big ask ! Any second had one, is probably going to have a short life, & a quick search on the net didn't come up with anything. If you can get hold of the original Toyota P/N, you might have some luck. Other than that, I can only suggest you look at current waggons with a "protective hosing", for taking wiring into the tailgate. A number of the VW models, including the Passat, appear to have a "wire protection hose", similar to the one in the KE70 waggon. Google Results Good luck ! Cheers Banjo
  2. Hi Sam, I'm presuming the engine in the car is a 4K-C maybe ? I can't imagine the previous owner spending all that money on a 3K. The fuel cell, was a bit over the top, but from the pics, the twin carbies look like they have been installed OK. The real big thing, with fitting twin carbies; is whether anything has been done to the head's combustion chambers & inlet & outlet ports ? The K series heads, were never a good flowing head; as number one; they are not cross flow head; & number two; the head inlet & exhaust tracks, could well be improved. My personal opinion, is it's not going to greatly improve the engines performance, by simply fitting twin carbies, unless this is associated with some head work, to improve the air flow in, & exhaust out. However, unless you get that info from the previous owner, the only other way is to remove the head, & take a look. Any unknown engine, I always like to remove the head as a minimum first up; as it allows you to see first hand, what the state of the valves & their seats are; as well as the state of the bores, & whether there is any movement in the pistons. Again, not knowing what the state, the carbies are in, the first thing would be to remove them, & clean them completely, before trying to tune them. Tuning a single carby is hard enough, but twins can be a bugger, if you haven't got the experience & equipment to balance them etc. At a very minimum, before You do anything; I would warm the engine up; whip out all the spark plugs, & do a compression test. Even the colour of the spark plug electrodes, give a good indication, of how things are going, inside the cylinders. If you can find out some history of the motor, that would be a really good starting point. Cheers Banjo
  3. Hi Sam, Glad You found the wire. Only other wire that I think that could be, would be a boot illumination light. However, if You already have a boot light, then it is very likely to be the fuel sender. (best drink that coffee, before it gets cold !) The fuel sender units inside the tank, are notorious, when old; for "wearing out"; as the constant rubbing can wear the fine resistance wire, they are wound with. They are seeming irreplaceable, unless you can find a wrecked Corolla, with a good one still fitted. I noticed you were lucky to have secured Historic Vehicle number plates with your new acquisition. Does that restrict You in Victoria, to only driving so many klms per month, or similar restrictions ? I was sent this email this morning for Heritage Plate auction, available here in Australia. Just have a look at some of the bids for these plates. Crazy ! https://collectingcars.com/collection/heritage-number-plates?utm_source=Email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=SF_CC_Collecting_Push_18/June/2024&utm_term=&utm_id=626394&sfmc_id=6149295 Cheers Banjo
  4. Hi Sam, The wire at the fuel guage in the boot area, basically earths, on grounds through the variable resistor, which is the fuel level sender, in the tank. The guage responds only gradually (damped), so that it is not floating up & down, whilst the fuel is sloshing around in the tank. With the ignition on, have someone sit in the car & watch the fuel guage. A second person should take the wire you've found, & connect it temporarily to a part of the chassis, which is "bare" & clean. If the guage starts to rise, as observed by your helper, you've found the right wire. There shouldn't be any other spare wires in the boot area, if all the tail, stop, indicator & licence plate illumination lights are working. Only hiccup could be if a previous owner has rewired the car. Let's know how you go. Cheers Banjo
  5. Hello Banjo, hoping you can help? I have put a steering column out of a Ke70 Corolla into a Morris minor ute. I can get everything but the headlights to work, I followed your wiring diagram but I have no switching power to activate relay. 

    1. Banjo

      Banjo

      Welcome aboard !  That's an interesting scenario. Corolla mechanical & electrical component parts, into a Morris Minor.

      Most of us here in Australia, of mature age, remember Morris Minors well; & probably had one at some time, in their early life.  I only will answer your query, if You send us some pictures of your build !   Only joking, but would love to see some pics. Photos tell a thousand words, so they say.

      I am guessing, the wiring diagram, you are referring to; is the one in the following post.

      https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/84897-ke70-headlights-not-working-from-relay/#comment-735796 

      image.thumb.png.fa2c7f17850a2afb774aa1992ea477ba.png

       

       

      As I pointed out in the description, in that post, you cannot rely on the official Toyota wire colours on their manual diagrams, so that can throw you off, if You are probing for a voltage on only a particular colour wire, but that wire on the wiring diagram, is actually using a different current.  I trust you have a simple voltage tester probe, so you can work your way through the circuit, & eventually solve the issue.

      image.png.2fc05c11962bdd7540ba84d84136b58b.png

      My gut feeling is, that you have a faulty light switch in the steering column, that You have transposed.  The headlights were reknown for burning this contact out, as having no head light relay, the contact in the steering wheel stork, carried the full headlight current, & either melted or burnt out.

      I'm presuming, all the tail light circuits are working, & it is just the head lights, that are "no go" ?

      Clip your test light probe lead to a good earth, start at the battery positive (+ve) terminal, & work your way through the circuit, until, you don't get the test light illuminating.  You've then found the issue.

      Trust that assists.

      Cheers Banjo

       

       

       

  6. Hi Paul, I've just read Altezzaclub's comments to You, & realised, that your original question was It appears to me, that you are advising the the engine had lash-caps fitted, when You purchased it; but now after overhauling the engine, & decking block, & skimming head; You are now concerned as to whether the lash caps should be reinserted, as they may change the valve timing. I would guess, it would only be an issue, if the amount decked from the block; & skimmed from the head, is enough to change the valve timing considerably. As You've adjusted the bores slightly, to take the 30 thou O/S pistons, then that increase in swept cylinder volume, plus block decking & head skimming, would have increased the compression ratio. Have you calculated, or measured the cylinder head volume, to work out the resultant compression ratio after these mods ? Personally, from what you've advised, I don't think you would have changed the valve timing significantly. You don't say, that You have actually removed the Lash Caps, which I assume have a reasonable thickness in the top cap area. If you are really concerned, you could always fit a timing disk; remove the spark plugs; & with a dial guage on the valve spring top retainers, take note of the opening & closing angles of all valves. Personally, I wouldn't remove the Lash Caps. If the engine builder had originally fitted Lash Caps, I would leave them. From what I have read; when lash Caps are used, the lengths of the valve stems are shortened, to accommodate the extra thickness of the Lash Cap, so that valve timing is not significantly altered. Your engine builder, is your best guide to obtaining the correct answer to your query, but if you would like to pop a couple of "close up", pics, of the valve coils & rockers etc., it might give us a more informed detailed look, at your concern. Good Luck ! Cheers Banjo
  7. Hi Paul, That Super 7 is beautiful, & I'm sure is a great performer with the 2TC, because the car is so light. You're making us very jealous ! Toyota red-lined the TC2 at 5500 rpm, from memory, but I'm sure the Fejer Brothers, would have modified the 2TC slightly, if they knew it would be used up to around 7000+ rpm. As I said in my original post, the Lash Caps are installed to put a wider area, in contact with the cam tip, or the roller; in the cam tip, if one is fitted. This is primarily done, to prevent damage, breakage or bending, of the Stellite valve stems. However, it maybe that the valves were replaced in your engine, at the time the Fejer Brothers produced these classics. Here is a link, that You may have already read. You will notice that their alloy low weight blue rockers, have rollers, but no "Lash Caps" from what I can see. You would assume then, that the valves were of a material, much better than the original Toyota valves. The 2TC engine was a fairly robust engine, for it's time in history, & some incredible HP was derived from them, especially, if a blower was added. We'd love to see a few pics, from under the hood. I imagine, the original build by the Fejer Brothers was fairly high class, & of very high standard ? Please keep in touch ! Cheers Banjo
  8. Welcome Aboard Paul, Lash Caps are only really used of very high performance engines with roller rocker arms. They increase the area of the top of the valve stem, & prevent valve tips & rocker damage. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/lash-caps-do-you-guys-use-them.35874/ Cheers Banjo
  9. Hi Daniel, Welcome aboard ! Glad it worked out ! Did you use the simple thin ones, similar to below . . . . . . . . . or one of those thicker ones, that sometimes come complete with studs ? Cheers Banjo
  10. Hi Sam, The easiest way to determine, which is which; is to disconnect the rubber hose on the LHS, in the photo, (which is probably the outgoing fuel line) & remove the whole assembly from the tank, by twisting it. This is easy in your situation, as the tank doesn't appear to be fitted to the car. Normally, in Corollas, with the tank vertically in the boot; You have to remove the tank altogether from the boot, to be able to withdraw the fuel pickup & fuel guage assembly, from the tank. Once removed, it will be clear, which is fuel out, return fuel in; & vent connections. Let's know how You go. Very neat & original under the bonnet, in your KE55, except for the twin carbies & the oversized battery. Someone has also paid close attention to "earthing", of engine , chassis, & battery, from what I can see; which is good ! Is that a little "insulator" flap over the top of the battery's +ve terminal, so that it does come in contact with the underside of the bonnet, on a rough road ? Altezzaclub on here, has always suggested moving the battery location to the opposite side of the engine, down under the coolant overflow bottle, which can be moved elsewhere. Getting the battery down low, close to the "chassis rail", lowers the "centre of gravity"; particularly, when the battery is larger & heavier than standard, as is yours. The only downside is a longer heavy cable is needed, to connect the starter motor, to the battery's +ve terminial. I think it is a good idea, but I just haven't got around to orgainising it, as yet. Cheers Banjo
  11. PM sent to You. Cheers Banjo
  12. Golf R ! https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/faster-2024-volkswagen-golf-r-teased-144309/ Now if money was not a stumbling block; then a big Yes; but at $ 60K - $ 70K, that might hurt a bit. My son's girlfriend's, whole family are Volkswagen thru & thru, & swear by them. No one, including me, will put down Volkwagen's reputation for reliability. However, somewhere along the line, way back; pulling a kombi engine; & a Bettle engine out for friends, in a driveway, without the assistance of a vehicle hoist, still reminds me a stiff neck, for a week or so afterwards. My earliest initiation to Volkswagen, was in Papua New Guinea, where I worked for a while in my late teens & early 20's. I was on contract, but we had to find our own accommodation & transport, although we were paid an allowance. Finding good secondhand cars was an issue, & rust was a problem. I remember one FB Holden, where you watched the road beneath you fly by, below your feet, & that was whilst driving. In Rabaul in East New Britain, we came across, a fully imported German VW which was, I think; the most basic model they ever made. It had a 27HP engine, when I think the Australia model, was 30HP , at the time. It had the little oval window, at the rear, but it had had a divider in the middle, unlike the then current Australia model. It had no fuel gauge, but when you ran out whilst driving, you kicked a little lever, to the left of the clutch pedal, & the petrol then exited the fuel tank from a second lower pickup point, & got you home. However, for all the basics; it never broke down. I tell a lie ! Once we broke a fan belt, which is a pretty important item, in an air cooled engine. We didn't have one, but did use a girls panty hose, that had been left on the back seat, (duno how it got there) & we made it back to town. Cheers Banjo
  13. Sob ! Sob ! My 5K engine has just become obsolete ! Toyota To Introduce the INN Engine at 200HP per litre ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGXqA5EvSkI Meanwhile, I'll just get my 5K to be fully ECU & EFI controlled ! Just about to fit modified camshaft cover back on; & put it all back together. Cheers Banjo
  14. Just love it, when a project comes to "fruition", & the road trips get going, under it's tyres ! Well done, & a good thread. I'm sure it will be appreciated by many, over the years on here. Congrats Cheers Banjo
  15. Got a bit side tracked there, with this camshaft sprocket chain advance / retard possibility, but will get back to that later. Most important thing is to get this "flying magnet trigger wheel" installed & running, with my Speeduino & Tuner Studio, on the 5K test bed engine. However, after finishing my 8mm thick "flying magnet" trigger wheel; I learnt a lesson, that I should have known; that "bigger is not always better". You see, I embedded 36 off 4mm dia. x 25mm lg. rare earth magnets in the disk, only to find when I tested it, that the Hall Effect sensor would not switch off. The magnet poles, facing out along the edge of the disk, were 17mm apart, on a radial edge, of the 200mm diameter aluminium disk; but the magnetic field strength was too strong, to allow the Hall Effect sensor to switch off. One of the reasons I used the 25mm long "rod" magnets, was because there was a large surface area, on the sides, which would provide a large area of Araldite adhesion of the magnets; to the inside of the 27mm deep holes in the aluminium disk. So back to using my olde 6mm thick 200mm dia. disk, with 36 off 4mm dia. x 6mm long rare earth magnets. Finished it today, & on the bench, it works perfectly. The trigger north pole, trigger reference magnet, is currently positioned at 270 degrees ATDC. So all I need to do now, is get the camshaft sprocket front engine cover, back on the engine, & do some serious testing, with the oscilloscope, with the engine running, & then the Speeduino. Cheers Banjo
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