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Banjo last won the day on February 12

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About Banjo

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    Greenbank / Brisbane

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  1. Rusted chassis ke36

    Please post some pictures of the actual damaged area, & I'm sure there are those experienced on this forum, which will offer their thoughts. Cheers Banjo
  2. 3y distributor with module inside

    It appears there were quite a few different types of dizzy for the 3Y, with both points & electronic. The ones for South Africa, were apparently different, & that is where Sipho is located. As Sipho has replaced the condensor, we have to assume it is a points type, which were fitted mainly to the 3Y engines, according to this blog at the above link. Maybe Sipho, your issue is with the rotor or the spring & carbon rubbing point in the top of the dizzy cap. Would need a bit more info, to solve this one. At least if it is points, it is the cheapest & easiest to fix. Cheers Banjo
  3. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    There we go Viterbo ! Now we know what it is all about. From the ToyHead website Jeremy has linked above. They are saying, what we all know, that the back of the head coolant temperature can be up to +10 deg C above coolant at the front of the head. Therefore, cylinder no: 4 detonates because of the higher temperature, so they use the low temperature thermostat, to lower the overall coolant temperature so no: 4 cylinder doesn't detonate. That's why valves, head gaskets & rings & pistons fail on no: 4 cylinder. The constant detonation, from the excessive temperature. However, whilst cylinder no: 4 may not now be detonating, with the low temp thermostat, the other front 3 cylinders are lower than what they should be, for best combustion & best efficiency. The better way to solve the problem is to increase the flow through the back of the head, so that the temperatures of coolant around all four combustion chamber is with 1-2 deg of each other. The experiment I am currently implementing, should prove that theory, by exiting coolant out the back of the head to the radiator or water pump, external to the engine's coolant galleries. Then you can run a standard 82 or 88 deg C thermostat. I should have the experiment finished, with graphs, in the next few days. Cheers Banjo
  4. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    I had a think last night, about what Viterbo is requesting. One of the problems with thermostats is that the solid wax has to be heated, by conduction through the metal structure, before it turns into a liquid & then expands, forcing the valve to open. This does not happen instantly, as anyone who has put a thermostat in a pot of cold water, heated it up on the stove & watched the opening, will know. It is relatively slow. This has a dampening effect, which is good, once the valve is opened. If the valve was very fast in its reaction time, whilst regulating the temperature, then the thermostat valve would be in a constant state of motion, & wear out quickly. What I think Viterbo is wanting, is a quicker opening initially, so there is no lag in opening, & therefore overshoot of coolant operating temperature. He believes that using a thermostat with a lower temperature opening characteristic, will be like a early warning, anticipation system. This is probably the case, but the result is that the operating temperature of the coolant must then be somewhere below that crack opening temperature, which puts it down in the mid 70s deg C mark. Appears some thermostat manufacturers, including Gates, have addressed this need. So specific engine conditions which will create extra heat load on the coolant system, are anticipated, & the heating of the wax in the expansion chamber is accelerated with a inbuilt heating element. Once that high loading condition disappears, the wax goes back providing the "damped" response to controlling coolant temperature. Interesting ! Cheers Banjo
  5. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    Can I wade in on this one ? The thermostats for the K series engines are all 52mm diameter, across the top, where they fit into the "thermostat housing/water outlet". However, there are several different lengths, or depth, dependent on manufacture. I have one on the desk here, exactly the same as your first pic, with 25mm, below the "mounting" point. I have another that is only 20mm in this dimension. When the thermostat is mounted, there is heaps of room below the thermostat. (see pic below with 25mm thermostat inserted) This allows approx 18mm for the back of the thermostat to move down, when fully opened. That is more than enough, as the thermostat valve movement from fully closed, to fully opened is about 10-12mm at most. Your second pic of the Gates thermostat with the 35mm dimension, had me puzzled. Why would they design a thermostat with a temperature below 80 deg. In this case 78 deg C. The answer was fascinating. I discovered that that thermostat was used on early 90s Daihatsu Applause 1600cc engines. When I Googled Daihatsu thermostats, the often question was, I can't find my thermostat. It appears it is at the back of the engine, not the front, up high, & controls the cooled coolant, rather than hot water to the top of the radiator, as in the K series. "On the Daihatsu Applause 16 valve engine the thermostat is NOT located under the alloy housing that attaches the top radiator hose to the head. It is located at the back of the engine block, at the opposite end of the engine, just above where the alternator is situated. Three 10mm bolts hold the thermostat housing to the block. The bottom radiator hose is attached to the housing. All you need to do is disconnect the water temp sensor wire, undo the three bolts & push it toward the alternator. Remove the thermostat from the block replacing it with a new one. A rubber gasket fits around the outside of the thermostat & I used a little silicone on the gasket to hold the thermostat while you re-install the housing. Don't forget to reconnect the temp sender wire & fill with coolant." Obviously cooled coolant after it passes out of the radiator could well be 10 deg C lower than operating temperature. So if the 35mm thermostat is 10mm longer/deeper, than the 25mm one, then it protrudes further down into the chamber below the thermostat. So instead of 18mm of travel, that only leaves 8mm, with this thermostat. It might be borderline, as I don't know what the travel is the Daihatsu thermostat. Apparently, this is where it is fitted< & you can see the special housing is quite deep. But like Dave & Si, I see little need for lowering the thermostat opening temperature. Engines, are designed to operate generally at temperatures between 80 - 95 deg C. The thermostat is designed to do two things. 1. Get the coolant temperature up to operating temperature, just as quickly as possible, from a cold start, as this is the period where most wear occurs in an engine. 2. To control the coolant temperature in a band of say 4-5 deg C. So a 82 deg C stat, might open @ 82, & close @ 78 deg C. Even if you are in the desert, where the ambient & coolant temperature are 40 deg C, at a cold start, that is only half the temperature that the engine needs to be at. In outback Australia, where it is very hot, I know there are lots of people who remove the thermostat all together. There is no evidence, to my knowledge, that removing the thermostat, will increase coolant flow. The reason they remove them, is purely that water supplies are poor, and thermostats reliability is poor, & they don't want a siezed motor. Many motoring organisations, years ago, recommended replacing your thermostat yearly. However, in these days of modern high tech coolants, & more reliable themostats, there is no need for that. I don't think you are providing additional safety, by lowering the coolant temperature. If you are going to generate more heat, as a result of modified or operating conditions, of the engine, and it overheats, then you simply need a larger or more efficient radiator. The usual first step is to go from a 2 core to 3 core, as that requires no "bigger" radiator mods. Cheers Banjo
  6. That is incredible Jeremy ! I figure that guy is standing at the door looking in, because he can't get any further into the building. The sign next to him says NO PARKING, I believe; so I guess, that if you park too long outside, they just dissemble your car, or truck, & take the bits inside. So what happens, if you say you want that gearbox I've arrowed ? I suppose we'll never know, as it is a little bit big & "heavy duty" for a Rolla conversion. (come back in a month ?) Amazing ! I guess you are asking how much extra HP you are going to achieve, with the increased CR, by fitting the correct head. You will have to measure & calculate cylinder & head combustion areas accurately, before & after, to work that out. I think its a case of suck it & see, but it will be an improvement over the very low CR you currently have. Enjoy your trip back to Perth ! Have you got a "shopping list" of things you need to take back ? P.S. For heavens sake, do not cut & weld push rods ! A recipe for a disasaster. Cheers Banjo
  7. Hi Bill, Good one ! Doesn't hurt to have a new water pump. The seals go dry, if the engine not been used for years, & could leak like a sieve, once you fill her up at the end, which would be a bit disheartening. Plenty of alternator brackets hanging around here, so no issue, if you need one of those, shipped with the pulley. There is another bracket on the opposite side of the motor, for the A/C compressor, if fitted. Trouble is, very few Rollas here in Aussie, were fitted with A/C, so they are very hard to find & get hold off. Cheers Banjo
  8. Ke30 grill inquirie

    Hi Michael, Welcome aboad ! Most KE3X grills will fit on a KE5X models. The only one you may have a slight modification to do, is if the KE5X you are fitting the kE3X grill to, previous had square headlights. However, my belief is that the extra brackets etc. for the grill with square headlights, can easily be removed, & the gear & mounting points for round head lights were retained. The harder conversion is the other way around, fitting square head lights & associated grill to a kE30, which, to my knowledge, were never offered with square headlights option. I did this conversion a few years ago, & it was possible, by "finicky" ! Cheers Banjo
  9. Rebuilt 4k won't turn over

    Wow, that's a bummer ! Did you rebuild the 4K yourself, or did someone do it for you ? What was involved in the rebuild ? Was it bored or honed ? Was there new pistons or rings ? New big end and/or main bearings ? Crankshaft reground ? New crankshaft oils seals back &/or front ? Was the head rebuilt also ? Was the camshaft, & camshaft sprocket removed ? If you tell us what was done to it, it will narrow down where the issue may lie. With all four (4) spark plugs out, with the dizzy out, with the fan belt off, gearbox in neutral, the engine should spin freely on the starter motor, or be relatively easy to turn over using a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft pulley retaining nut. If it won't turn, easily, then don't try to force it, as you run the risk of damaging something. Strange. Normally an engine assembler spins the crankshaft by hand, then adds pistons & conrods, one at a time, spinning it at each addition. Finally camshaft & sprocket & chain. when they are happy, everything is free to spin, then, & only then, does the sump get replaced & sealed. Any chance of you recording the attempt to turn it over, with audio,so we can hear the clunk ? Cheers Banjo
  10. Oil pump failure

    Hi Jeremy, Yes, it is cable operated, but is just a 2 port valve (ON/OFF). However, it is not on the engine side of the firewall. It's under the dashboard, close to the heater coil. You could just keep the old one open permanently, & add this suggested one, in the engine bay. Below are pics of the heater coolant return path to the inlet side of the water pump. Cheers Banjo
  11. Oil pump failure

    Here is another possible "simple to implement" option, to get more coolant flow through the back of the head's water jacket. It would involve simply replacing the existing mechanical heater water ON/OFF valve, with just two (2) ports, to a four (4) port heater FULL bypass valve. When the heater is "ON", the hot coolant would pass through the heater as normal. When the heater is "OFF", the hot coolant would bypass the cabin heater, & return to the inlet side of the water pump, via the existing return coolant line. Consequently, coolant would flow out the back of the head, at all times the engine was running, whether the heater was ON or OFF. The only issue with our Rollas, is that the area where the existing "ON/OFF" valve is located, is a bit tight, so the new 4 port valve may have to be located adjacent somewhere close, & a few 16mm I.D. hose connections made. The area between the back of the head & the firewall, is also tight, but at least, there is only one hose connection there. Here is a cheaper plastic one, that is cable operated & comes in two (2) models. 25-1018 Pull to Open, & 25-1019 Pull to Close. They work like this . . . Only trouble is I have been unable to find a local source here in Australia or S.E. Asia on-line. From what I can see, they are only available on line in the UK & USA. Give us a yell, if you know where I can source one locally. P.S. In researching this, I found out why they are so available in the northern "colder" hemisphere. Apparently, in many older European cars, the coolant flows through the cabin heater coil all the time. The heat is controlled not by regulating the water flow at all, but by the air flap, in the heater box. When the heater box air flap sponge rubber seals deteriorate, hot air leaks into the cabin, when the flap is closed, & in July (their only warm month) it gets too hot inside the car, so these valves have become popular as a mod on older cars, to stop the water flow altogether, when heating is not required. Modern European cars apparently, sometimes have the heater on constantly, & it is turned off, when the A/C unit is switched on. A bit different to our conditions, here in Australia. Cheers Banjo
  12. Oil pump failure

    Love it ! So this little air bubble bleeder valve has to be pointing high, (as you would expect), therefore is should never be described as a "Jiggalo".
  13. Oil pump failure

    In my research on things coolant, in K series engines, I've always presumed all K series engines had coolant bypass circuits, from the base of the thermostat housing to the 16mm spout on the inlet of the water pump. The Toyota Yellow Bible depicts it that way. All the 3K & 4K after market, replacement water pumps on the net, are depicted with a 16mm spout off the water pump inlet, to connect a bypass coolant circuit to. However, around my garage, are a few old genuine Toyota K series water pumps, that have no 16mm spout off the water pump inlet, so I can only presume that maybe some early 3K engines in KE10 & KE15 models, didn't have a coolant bypass circuit. Has anyone got an original Rolla, without a bypass circuit ? I even have a new aftermarket K series water pump, that has the 16mm spout on the water pump inlet, but is blanked off inside. Presumably, this is so it can be used in either application. If you need it for a bypass application, you just drill out the blank aluminium casting. Cheers Banjo
  14. Oil pump failure

    Well, sometimes you can be lucky ! I picked up an Echo radiator & fan complete, this afternoon, here in Brisbane, which I found on Gumtree. The older retired mechanic, had had it in his garage wrapped up for 10 years. Came off an Echo, written off, which he bought for other bits, he needed to repair another Echo. The Echo it came off, had 18K+ klms on it. It's like new. Bargain $ 35.00 ! As you can see, there is not much between them, size wise. The Echo one looks a bit bigger, but some of that illusion, is a piece of plastic on the RHS (looking from the front) that can be cut off. Inlets are on the same side at the top, but outlets on opposite sides, at the bottom. Outlets & are a fraction smaller in dia. (28mm vs 30mm) I'll see how easy it is to attach the fan assembly to the KE radiator, but really, it might be just as easy, to swap the whole radiator & fan complete. What do you think. Probably easier to make a decision, once I remove the KE radiator out, & see how it all fits. Cheers Banjo
  15. Oil pump failure

    Here is the thermostat housing I had all the time, that is perfect for this experiment. That hole there is blanked off, & unused. It is quite large, & it should be easy to drill & file out the back of the hole & break into the thermostat area. there is plenty of "meat" around the hole, to thread it to any size hose fitting I choose. Alternatively, if I want to, or need to run the coolant return line on the opposite side of the engine, then there is a large spout already to be used, but this is designed for the radiator bypass, so I'll probably retain that function. There are two (2) temp sensor points on the thermostat housing, & if I use a cover spout with the threaded hole in the top, I get another measuring point, effectively at the top of the radiator. Happy days ! Cheers Banjo