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Everything posted by Banjo

  1. Been a couple of months, but it's been a slow & different year for everyone I guess. The Speeduino ECU underwent all the bench tests, & has finally migrated to the garage, & got hooked up to the 5K engine on the stand, controlling the ignition initially, in full sequential COP mode. After setting up the initial tooth wheel settings, the engine fired up, first time, & was rock steady, on the strobe timing light. The trigger clamp on the timing light, designed to go around a spark plug lead, would not go around the exposed COP tube. I used a work around, as pictured above, but discovered that the sensor would trigger the timing light, if it was placed close to the head of the COP. It worked perfectly. The removal of the distributor, requires it being replaced by a dummy drive shaft, to allow the camshaft to continue to drive the all important oil pump. An old 3K Denso dizzy cut down, with a 35mm cup type welch plug as a cover, provided a perfect dummy drive shaft. The synch pulse from the camshaft is provided by a Hall effect sensor that is mounted on the timing chain cover, detecting a single rare earth magnet, fitted to the camshaft sprocket. So a week or so, playing around with all the Speeduino settings, & then it will be onto the next stage, of fitting my 7K EFI throttle box & inlet manifold, & hooking up all the fueling requirements. P.S. For those of us, familiar with rotating the dizzy to set initial timing, & watching the timing marks jump backwards & forwards, at idle, due to the slop & take up in chain & drive to the dizzy; the first thing you notice about crank toothed trigger wheel triggering; is how rock steady & accurate it is. Cheers Banjo
  2. Hi Lewis, It would be highly unlikely that Toyota would switch a 15A circuit through the small switches in the lighting stalk. Put the 15A fuse in, switch the fog light stalk on, & then go look for a +12V signal somewhere. When you find it, pull the 15A fuse out, & make sure the +12V disappears. If there is no relay provided, then use this +12V switched signal to power a relay, which will feed another +12V fused circuit to your fog-lamps, as per the sketches, earlier in this thread. Cheers Banjo
  3. Hi Lewis, If there is a factory original harness down behind the fog lights, that is not used, then that is probably for the fog lights. If you have hooked it up, you will need to add a plug-in relay, for the fog-lights to work. Toyota would not provide a relay, if there was no fog lights fitted. However, the harness & relay/fuse box would be wired for fog lights, & all you should have to do, is add relay & fuse to the relay/fuse box. Should be a goer. Cheers Banjo
  4. Hi Lewis, Is the headlight stalk, assembly, with fog light switch built in, identical to your currently fitted one, except the foglight switch function ? If so, & the plug at the end of it lead is the same as your current one, I see no reason why it can't be used. If the plug & socket is easily accessible, I'd be unplugging the installed one, & plugging in the "fog light" one, & see if all the light switching functions still work, before swapping them out. Cheers Banjo
  5. Have dissembled & cleaned this Mazda 121 EGi (Electronic Gasoline Injection), cross between a carby & a throttle body. It appears to be made by Hitachi, including the TPS & MAF sensors. Trying to discover it's design criteria, & how it works. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a running Mazda 121, with an EGi "carby" fitted, which would provide a broader input, & something to play with, & take some measurements. However, I was able to download a free Factory workshop Manual, that did throw light into where all those ofrifices going in & out of the dicast body. _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.manualslib.com/download/1031156/Mazda-121.html The whole design is quite simple, & does, (as I hoped) lack the tiny little internal passages in the dicaste body, like our common Aisin carby, with it's idle, low, & main fuel jets & paths within, which can be so problematic. The EGi unit, has a mechanical screw idle adjustment, with initial mechanical coolant temperature idle adjustment, when the engine is cold. Once the engine warms up, the electronic bypass valve comes into play. So the EGi is a mixture of olde world mechanical & new world electronic control. The EGi is manufactured in two pieces. The top casting includes the single injector & integral fuel rail. The bottom half is the throttle body proper. Top half of the EGI, viewed from the bottom, clearly displaying the single injector discharge point, smack in the middle of the venturi. Top view of the previous pic, The "fuel rail" passes straight across the casing, pressured fuel entering on the LHS, & the fuel pressure regulator, with return & atmospheric compensation on the RHS. The MAF sensor fits to the flat on the bottom of this pic. The resistive elements are in the hole are in the airstream through the dished hole, which then swirls around, & re-enters the venturi above the butterfly, through two openings. Same pic, but with the cover removed to show the injector snuggly fitted in the centre. Top view of the throttle body. The thermostatic idle control for cold engine is seen in the top RH corner of picture. I want to take the injector out, to ultrasonically clean it, but have not been able to remove it, as yet. It appears that you push it back up, but it won't budge, & I don't want to apply any more pressure, in case I crack or break the dicast "bridge" across the venturi. Suggestions welcome. From Manual: P.S. Just got it out. There are two (2) "O" rings supporting it, as I thought, but being old & hard, & stiff, they took a bit of budging. Here are pics, with injector removed. This is the cold engine idle control, which is disengaged, once the coolant reaches temp. Have measured it compressed length at room temp, then dropped it in a saucepan of hot water, withdrew it, & measured it again, to ensure it had expanded. Works well. One trick I found worked well, last night, while tracing the passage ways in the body, was to shine an LED pencil light into a hole, in a dark room, & then pier into the other holes, to see which ones were joined. There was enough reflection from the passageway walls, that you could see the light around bends & corners. Cheers Banjo
  6. K50 Gearbox ex KE70 When I run a straight edge across the backstop flange, it just clears the heads of the bolts, that retain the front Bearing Cover to the gearbox case. That should allow the CSC assembly to pass over the bolt heads, without issues. I would suggest that the removal of the Clutch Fork Pivot head, would be an ideal point, to mount the location rod, that comes with the ACE CSC, to prevent it from rotating on the central spigot. The radial dimension from the centre line if the gearbox shaft, & the centre of the fork pivot ball, is exactly 50mm. Hopefully, the slot in the side of the ACE CSC, will accomodate this dimension. As long as the "depth" of the ACE CSC is not much deeper than 45mm, I can't foresee too many issues arising. The only requirement, I can see, to making this all work; is to match the Fixed Spigot OD, with the ID hole in the ACE CSC. I suspect, this spigot, may be a tad too small in OD, at 27.5mm. That surely can be fixed by pressing on a tubular sleeve, with an interference fit, then turning that sleeve down to the required OD. I'll contact Mal wood, this week, & see if the ACE unit is suitable. Hopefully, they have converted a Rolla GB, previously, & it's all go. Cheers Banjo
  7. More can be found on the subject of CSCs (Concentric Slave Cylinders) at the link below, on another thread in this forum. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76019-ke70-cable-to-hydraulic-clutch/?tab=comments#comment-721367
  8. More on the subject of Concentric Slave Cylinder conversions, can be found at this other thread on RollaClub https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77940-upper-thermostat-housing/#comments
  9. That's a good idea. Funny how these threads start off in one area, & emerge into associated topics. I'll put a link in both topics, so anyone reading either, can find the other. Looking forward to any pics you have of your CSC (Concentric Slave Cylinder) conversion. Cheers Banjo
  10. That's good ! I can't imagine that Catalytic Converters were fitted by Toyota, back in 1979. I like that wording of Historic/Classic, in the same sentence. I would regard our early Rollas, as classics, but never "historic". I went to an all British Car show in Sydney a couple of years ago, & there certainly were some "historic" olde cars there. Cheers Banjo
  11. I've been looking at the ACE concentric slave clutch throw-out bearings, from Mal Wood Automotive, in Warwick Qld. https://malwoodauto.com.au/ These look to be well built, & are half the price, of the ones from the USA, as they don't require a new front gearbox bearing cover & spigot, for each specific type of gearbox. It has multiple ports for the hydraulic lines in & out. It has a simple locator slot, through which passes a threaded rod, that just replaces one of the bearing cap retaining bolts, to stop the assembly from rotating. Looks like it would fit my KE70 5 speed GB. Picture below is on a Supra GB. I've just had a look at a spare KE70 5 speed GB, I've got in the shed. It appears the spigot, which supports the bearing carrier, is about 27.5mm in diameter. I'd suggest that is probable a bit to small for the above unit. However, it should only require a simple tubular sleeve to be turned up, to make it fit perfectly. I'll clean out the KE70 GB bellhousing area, in the morning, & accurately, measure everything up. I'll then contact Mal Wood Automotive & see if, 1. They have ever done a concentric clutch slave cylinder throw-out bearing, on a Rolla clutch/gearbox, or 2. Whether the dimensions I provide, can be accommodated. If anyone on this forum has used these ACE units previously, please chime in, & let us know your experience with them. Sounds & looks promising. Cheers Banjo
  12. Pretty strict there I think, from what I've read, although there are references to "whether you drive the car, in the cities like Phoenix & Tuson". Maybe if you live out in the sticks, anything goes, same as in Australia. I did read that old catalytic converters, are not to be sold, included in scrap metal. Did spot this one on the web. Cheers Banjo
  13. Hi Misael, I'd definitely go "catless" ! With a pussy cat in your exhaust system, it tends to attract lots of other cats . . . . . . . . . . . & dogs. On top of that, the incessant meowing would drive you crazy ! Keep in touch Cheers Banjo
  14. Hi Ash, Most of the USA ones are all around the $ 1000 mark. The Tilton models seem to be a bit cheaper. I gather the one you used is the first one pictured here from the 3000 Series, which was the closest to requirements for the Rolla 4 speed GB. I noticed that Rolan Australia, sell a lot of Tilton stuff, out of Seven Hills in NSW, on ebay. I found the instruction for the conversion kit, put out by Saab for the Saab 900 series. https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/converting-saab-ng900-hydraulic-clutch-kit-101k10172/ The Saab hydraulic clutch release parts are a lot cheaper than the USA made devices. Cheers Banjo
  15. Barrel diameter is exactly 40mm. Certainly got possibilities. Certainly a lot simper in design, because the injector can provide a very wide range of fuel control. My guess is, that when I open it up, & look inside, there will be a lot less little passageways, particularly in respect to the idling circuit, which is so problemomatic on the Aisin carbies, when they get old, & block up. What I thought was a fuel cut-off solenoid, I just realised is an idle actuator to control air around the butterfly, which closes totally, when at idle. I'll take some more pics, once I get it dissembled. I found these comments in a review of the Mazda 121, on line. "Like the car it replaced, the 121 sedan used a 1.3-litre, four-cylinder engine, but that's where the similarities stopped in their tracks. The later car's engine was a completely new design and used four valves per cylinder operated by a single overhead camshaft. Electronic fuel injection was still far from universal in 1990, and the littlest Mazda used single-point injection (basically an electronic carburettor) to put out 54kW of power at 6,000rpm and 106Nm or torque at 3,700rpm. At around-town speeds, the car felt pretty lively, but stretch the cruising speed and there wasn't always a lot left in reserve for overtaking or battling headwinds. Mechanical thrashing and noise was another downside of the 121's engine, and while it was no worse than most small cars when really wrung out, it still managed to make lots of racket when really pushed. At least Mazda stacked most of the performance reasonably low down in the rev range, so the engine didn't need to be worked too hard to deliver. The five-speed manual gearbox made the most of what was available under the 121's bonnet, although a lot of buyers gravitated towards the optional four-speed auto, which is never as satisfying to drive and makes the driver work the engine harder." Cheers Banjo
  16. Had one of these Mazda 121 "Injector Carbies", delivered to me last weekend, by a mate of mine. It came off a car at a wreckers that were closing down, so only cost $ 20. I haven't cleaned it as yet. The pics below, are just as I have received it. The little red/orange/black wires, are ones I've attached to the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), so I could test it with my Speeduino ECU. It worked perfectly. It has an idle control valve, MAF Sensor, & the injector built-in, with leads & plugs already attached. Just have to get a plug for the TPS & AFS. The injector appears to be a low impedance one, as I measured it at around 2.0 ohms, with my multimeter. So now I'll strip it, & give it a good clean, & see how it ticks", inside, & then design a mating plate, which will allow it to be attached to the K Series inlet manifold flange, in place of the original Aisin carby. Cheers Banjo
  17. Hi Ashley, I did a bit of research on there type of hydraulic clutch throw out bearings, & there a several brands including your Tilton unit. McLeod, seems to be another popular brand in the USA. There are a several videos on-line explaining how to install them, which had clear information. Apparently, most are supplied with shims, which fit behind the unit, so that the gap between the front of the bearing & the tips of the clutch plate fingers is about 100 thou, with a new driven plate. They explain, that as the driven plate faces wear, & the driven plate "becomes thinner", the fingers of the clutch plate move backwards, eventually touching the throw out bearing. Apparently, this is not an issue, as the bearing is designed as a heavy duty "constant turning" bearing. As many of these hydraulic units are fitted to competition cars & vehicles, where the engine & gearbox, are regularly removed from the vehicle, then you would remove shims from behind the hydraulic assembly, it keep the gap at 100 thou approx. as the clutch plate wears. I was concerned, as we are so used to relatively simple "low duty" throw out bearings, that if allowed to turn constantly, would dry out & start to rattle incessantly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_R2hw2wkV8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rl3D7E1CdU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVLGOSMTjrU I'd be very interested to hear from any other RollaClub members, who have ever fitted one of these "concentric slave hydraulic throw-out bearings", to their Rolla. Cheers Banjo
  18. Hi Ashley, I checked your activity on Rollaclub, to see if you have ever posted any other pics of your 3K Clubman previously. I found several posts in 2016/17/18. The post about your hydraulic conversion of the clutch throw-out bearing has me enthralled. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76019-ke70-cable-to-hydraulic-clutch/?tab=comments#comment-721367 I don't know whether I missed it at the time, or had just forgotten it, but now I'm all excited again. I've always wanted to get rid of the clutch cable, & it's horrible adjustment mechanism, up on the firewall. It has created pain over the years. The clutch cable does have the advantage that it is easy to change out, but I do get a bit apprehensive about fitting something additional "inside" the bell-housing, that would require the removal of the gearbox, to do any service at all thereupon. However, the Tilton device you modified & added, does look quite heavy duty; & I love the simple hole in the bell-housing, to bring out the hydraulic line straight from the Tilton slave cylinder. My question is . . . . Now you have had a couple of years using this setup, has it lived up to it's expectations ? Have there been any issues with it, like leaks etc.? As there doesn't appear to be any adjustment on the arrangement, to set the gap between the the clutch fingers & the Tilton integral throw-out bearing, have you had the bearing start to touch the fingers, as the clutch driven plate wears, & the fingers naturally move slightly rearwards ? Sorry about all the questions, but what diff ratio do you have in the Escort rear end ? What rpm does the engine do, to achieve 100klm/hr in top gear, whilst cruising. A possible great upgrade, when you preparing a "warm" 5k for your clubman, would be the 5 speed gearbox from a Ke70 or maybe even a KE55 coupe, depending on where your gearstick comes out of your tunnel, which I imagine is quite tight. The 5th gear would then basically provide an over-drive. Cheers Banjo
  19. Hi Ashley, I know "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", but that is beautiful ! There is something about the simplicity of the Clubman concept, that appeals to me. Probably wouldn't appeal as much, if I was out driving in one, & it started to rain. However, as that has never happened, I'll retain my wonder for them. What does it weigh all up ? Even with a 3K, the power to weigh ratio, must be pretty good. The mind wonders what it would be like with a 5K powering it. I note it has no engine driven fan, so I suspect there is a thermofan down behind that radiator, that I can't see . . . . . or else you drive so fast, it relies entirely on the "ram effect" of the air through the radiator. I can now see how low the radiator is, & why you need the extended filler cap, on top of the thermostat housing. Cheers Banjo
  20. Hi Ashley, Lovely clean lined Clubman you have there. I'm assuming it has a 5K Rolla engine in it ? Gearbox ? Would love to see a picture, under the bonnet, to see how you've installed it. Did you put the clubman together, or did you purchase it, as is ? Hope you can get hold of that radiator cap outlet. A wrecked LiteAce van, is probably your best bet, here in Australia. Have you ever tried these guys out at Epping ? https://toyrolla.com.au/toyota-k-engine/ I'll keep a look out for one. Cheers Banjo
  21. Hi Ashley, I've never been lucky enough to come across one of those. My guess is that your picture is of a 7K engine, possibly fitted in a forklift or a Toyota commercial vehicle. The filler cap always has to be the highest point in the coolant system, so that particular thermostat cover/cap could only be utilised, where the top of the radiator, is below that particular level point on the engine. Interested to learn what you need it for. My only suggestion, would be to contact a company in Melbourne that services & sells spares for forklifts. They may be able to supply you with the original Toyota P/N. With that number & Google, you'll probably have a much better chance of finding a source for it. Let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo P.S. I just found this on the net. http://europe.toylexparts.com/liteace/631540/km36lv-mrsbfew/0/014/1/1603/mab607a/16701 Looks like this arrangement was fitted to a KM36 LiteAce van. According to this exploded view the thermostat cover has P/N 16331 The cap is 16331F The gasket is 16341 OK, just found that it appears it was fitted to a 5K engine. There are another 5 digits with the 16331 Toyota number. Depending on the model it was ftted to it, could be any of the following, which I found on the net. Amayama in Japan list the 16331-13060, however it is out of production. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1633113060
  22. Hi Mate, By "nut", do you mean the oil drain plug ? Have have you damaged it ? Photo please. If you have a plug that a spanner or wrench won't fit the hex, any longer, because it is damaged, then it is not going to help by removing the sump, as the oil drain plug does not extend inside the sump. As long as there is some on the plug left, you should be able to put a "grip-all" type wrench on it, & get it off. A sharp cold chisel, on the edge, might also help just get the tension off it. VISE-GRIP You could get someone to weld a bar across it, to give you some leverage, as long as the sump plug is iron, although this technique is a bit risky on an engine, with lots of oil & petrol around. Last resort, would be to grind the plug flat, centre punch the centre of the plug, & drill a hole right through the middle. Be careful when breaking through, as the oil will drain out. After the oil has drained out, drill the hole to a larger size, & fit a large "easi-out" reverse type tap. Hope one of those suggestions works for you. If none of those suggestions assist, then Google might be your best friend. Removing Damaged Sump Plugs Cheers Banjo
  23. Hi Paul, Agree with Colin totally. Having driven Rollas for 20+ years, I've had 3k, 4K, & 5K engines in my Rollas at different times. They were in combination, with an auto; & 4 speed & 5 speed gear boxes. The 5K engine, in combination with a 5 speed gearbox, plus a 3.89 ratio diff, is simply the very best setup, without doing the twin overhead cam & Nissan engine swaps. The only thing that came slightly close to it, was the 4K-U version of the 4K engine, which pumped out more HP than any of the other more common 4K-C engines. I recently bought a 5K engine, that had been retired from speedway racing, for $ 100. I've only recently stripped it, & am always amazed how strong the bottom end of these engines are. Just balance them, & they'll spin at high revs all day, without a whimper. Cheers Banjo
  24. Hi Lewis, Plenty of stuff on the net, regarding fitting fog lights to Corollas. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/factory-style-fog-wiring.1673247/ You can also get the actual fog light switch on line, with plug & wire tails, that just plugs into your dash/facia, in place of the little blanking piece. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000188196228.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=9604210690&albag=100463787298&trgt=296904913880&crea=en4000188196228&netw=u&device=c&albpg=296904913880&albpd=en4000188196228&gclid=CjwKCAiAtK79BRAIEiwA4OskBoyZRHSciKJdBNOMQA2rrsv65IXKrlS99FnPuuyEQbJPOSniZzr5zxoC9JoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You might need the changeover relay also. Hopefully, if you've found the wiring already exists, it is just a case of adding lights, switch, & relay. Hope that assists. Cheers Banjo
  25. Hi Misael, Love it ! Invariably, behind every old car, still "percolating", there is a story. Thanks for letting us know. You certainly are a "lucky buyer". Keep us up to date, on what you find with your routine servicing of the "cooling system". Cheers Banjo
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