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Banjo

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Everything posted by Banjo

  1. Hi Luke, I tend to agree with Keith very much on this one. A newly, fully or partly reconditioned engine's, "first hours of waking life", can be crucial to it'd longevity, as a reliable engine. It's all about engine temperature, tolerances, & oil viscosity. My dash temp & oil guage are the most important instruments in my Rolla. There are some really good general rules. Never ever start "revving the guts" out of a newly started motor, once it kicks over for the first time. It is human nature, & an expression, of human emotion, & sense of achievement, to want to "give it a burl", but it can be counter productive in the long run. Let it idle, & even cover the radiator, to get it up to temperature, as quickly as possible. Try not to load the engine for at least 30 minutes. Never put a very high viscosity oil in a newly refurbed engine initially. After several hours of running; & only when the engine is definitely at operating temperature; you should drain the oil & change the filter. You'd be surprised how much initial "wearing" in of metalic surfaces, takes place during that "running in" period. Same suggestion for the coolant system. However, that can be done after a good week of driving. Take hoses off & really drain it; not just using the tap at the bottom of the radiator. You'd be surprised at the little bits of crud & gasket cement & the like that comes out. Keith suggests watching that temperature guage. This is really important. These engines are designed to run between 80-90 deg C. Taxi's get such incredible long lives out of their engines, because they rarely ever get cold; sometimes running 16 - 24 hours a day, & just changing drivers at change of shift. I may be olde school, but I still take my wife's Corolla out of the garage each morning, & leave it idling in the driveway for 10-12 minutes, before she leaves for the daily commute, to work. This is really important in winter. I've heard it said, by professionals, that more wear takes place in an engine in the first couple of kilometres driven each day, than the wear that takes place for the complete rest of the day's driving. I have a good friend that lives in the Yukon, up near the polar areas, north of Canada, where it is extremely cold, & there is permafrost. They have permanent electric heaters in the sumps of their vehicles, & they plug them into the power point in the garage every night, so the engine can actually turn over in the morning, & drive away initially, without any substantial engine lubricant protection, because the high pressure bypass valve opens, & dumps a substantial amount of oil straight back into the sump. P.S. Regarding your issue with cylinder number 4, you might like to take a look & read these long threads on here, where a few of us, have shared our thoughts, on this perennial issue with K series engines. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73676-oil-pump-failure/page/8/?tab=comments#comment-713644 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/77718-radiatorcooling-help/#comments Cheers Banjo
  2. Hi Luke, Are these pistons & rings going into a rebored block ? Spend lots of time getting your ring gaps correct, by placing the rings in the bore, & squaring then in the bore with a piston pushed down upside down, to normal piston orientation. http://blog.wiseco.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ring-gap If the bore hasn't been freshly bored, then make sure any existing lip at the very top of the bore ,is removed where ring does not sweep the bore. Not removing it, risks losing your new top rings. Arh, the legendary 3KR motor ! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/17848-3kr/ Here's one in full flight . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCwYxmbPaWY (yes, He does get past him, in the end ! ) Cheers Banjo
  3. Like Col, I've had a fair bit of experience with 3K, 4K, & 5K engines. The 4K engine is nearly square (bore & stroke are almost the same dimension). A "square" engine, is regarding as being a more free reving motor, with higher top rev limits.; especially if the engine is balanced. One of the great attributes of any K series engine, is their bottom end. Designed before a lot of "computer input" early Japanese engines were over designed, as they did not want failures of a mass produced car. I've always been amazed at some of the HPs, people have squeezed out of K series engines, without any strengthening of the bottom end, other than maybe hardened studs & nuts, for the bearing caps. K series engines of all formats have had pretty poor inlet air flows. Lots of people have spent lots of time, trying to improve this aspect. There were some 3K engines with bigger inlet valves, which is why I asked you previously, to give us the number of the head on you 3K. Lots of people have experimented with head swaps, to get compression ratios up around 10:1. It is generally agreed that anything above 10.5:1 is counter productive. I picked up a 5K engine here in Qld. a couple of years ago, for $ 100,which was an ex dirt track sprinter car engine. They were very popular years ago, in this realm, & quite reliable. One rainy day, I'll get it going again. It has some flash improvements, including a very fancy oil pump arrangement. Have a read in the WiKi on this forum, & there are plenty of threads, where all sorts of people, who love K Series engines, have tried all sorts of things, to get a bit more grunt, out of these engines. Luke, keep the questions coming, & we'll assist if possible. Where are you located ? Cheers Banjo
  4. Hi Luke ! I know that feeling. If you want/need torque, then you have to go for a 5K engine, out of a Toyota forklift of a Toyota commercial like the LiteAce van. I had a 2 door KE55 once, that I fitted a 5K to, after driving it previously with a 4K. It was like a whole new car, & it loved HILLS ! Cheers Banjo
  5. The scariest article you will read today ! https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2021-11-22/petrol-stations-can-they-survive-electric-car-uptake/100627312 I went outside after breakfast to put the rubbish out. My little KE30 2 door coupe was "whippering" in the driveway. I asked "Buzzy" what was the matter. She stated "I obviously hadn't read the ABC website news feed today". (She is fitted with a 4G internet dongle, so spends her time while "idling"; GOOGLING) There are some difficult conversations, we will have to share, when next I wash her, no doubt ! Cheers Banjo
  6. Hi Luke ! From my experience, that engine looks pretty good. As it's probably original, how many miles has it travelled, according to the speedometer ? Little olde ladies, are not known for racking up big mileages, on their cars. I accept your comments regarding the possibility of going to a 4K, but bear in mind, as these engines are probably 40 years olde, the 4K may be in more need of "care & kindness", than this 3K. Can you look at the casting of the head, on the outside, between no: 3 & no: 4 spark plugs, & take a note of the number of the two digit head type. That might assist us in identifying it a bit more. Your pics don't show it; but on the very back of the head, there is either a plate or a circular water jacket bung. This needs to come out to get access to all the "crud" inside. Sometimes pressure chemical cleaning of the head water compartments will dislodge the crud, but frequently, the plate at the back, is corroded badly on the "inside face", & should be replaced. Cheers Banjo
  7. Yep Pete ! Completely agree. Have never been to Japan, but if I do, I would be heading straight to Nagakute & Nagoya, to wander around the wonderful car museums the Japanese have there. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/07/corolla-to-hilux-toyota-75-continued/ My personal problem would be, that although it is wonderful looking at these beautifully restored examples, I would be very frustrated with the fact that you can't lift the bonnet, & see how they did it, & put everything together, on the working side of the cars. Many years ago I was in London, & visited the big museum there that has everything from planes, to trains, & cars. I had never seen anything like it, & returned for a further 2 days, as I couldn't drag myself away from it. Cheers Banjo
  8. Would just love to go to one of these shows ! https://www.facebook.com/media/set?vanity=technotoytuning&set=a.4700501443323007 Cheers Banjo
  9. Aussies to the rescue ! Read about these guys in our local Jimboomba Times just today, & found it on the net. Love the bit about building it in their hotel room in the UK, & the cleaner seeing it, & thought it was a bomb. Good on ya aussies ! "But we spoke to the police after it all and they actually congratulated us on the work that we were doing." https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-03-06/qld-kingston-ewaste-global-energy-poverty-indonesia-powerwells/13206106 Cheers Banjo
  10. There are always two sides to a coin. Here is the other one, already emerging ! https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-10-25/electric-car-solar-battery-storage-waste-recycling/100564234 Cheers Banjo
  11. Interesting column on this subject on the ABC website today, looking from it as "a consumer". https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-10-21/what-is-stopping-australians-buying-electric-cars/100524242 I occasionally travel to Canberra on business, & thought a good way to get some miles under the belt, in an EV car, would be to maybe hire one, having never driven one. I just checked the net to see if may car hire companies in Australia, are hiring EVs. Not many, it seems, but I did notice that Hertz are hiring the Tesla 3. I would be interested if anyone else on Rollaclub; has tried an EV car, either by hiring it, or a friend's car; & what your first impressions were. After reading that article today, with mention of "range anxiety", I could see how that could become very real. I've always loved driving in the outback, & in my younger days, that's where every holiday was spent. In a petrol car, you always carry one or two full jerry cans in the boot, to extend your range. You can't carry a couple of spare batteries ! The scenario, which always worried me back then, was getting lost or taking the wrong turn, because of poor or no sign posting. Driving on an outback road with few if any other road users, & not knowing how far to the next habitation, always created anxiety. I really think the hybrid solution is an idea solution short term for Australian drivers, until the EV car market gets more established, unless you are a pure "city only" driver. I recently read the detailed description of the Toyota hybrid arrangement, & it sounds brilliant. Only issue for me, is they are very expensive, & very complicated, so support Australia wide may be an issue. I've only had to call a tilt truck once in my life, but these days it is so common, as the NRMA, or RACQ roadside assist man, can do little to get you going again, unless it's something fairly simple. Cheers Banjo
  12. Hi Dave, That's a good site, & right here in Qld. I came across this commentary the other day, which Altezzaclub, will be in full agreement with, I'm sure. https://thenextweb.com/news/are-classic-cars-still-classic-if-converted-evs-yes-they-are I agree with you Dave, that there is always resistance when major events/things, that change in the world. Remember the history of when the world went from horses to cars. These new "fangled things", were so dangerous that the authorities of the day, forced each car to have a man walking in front of it, carrying a "red" flag. It's only early days, as yet, & the next 10 years will reveal lots & lots of changes. For people like Altezzaclub & Banjo, who love the sound of all that air rushing in & out of an engine; someone will produce a little box you attach under your dash, that emits those long loved engine sounds, in complete synchronization with the position of your right foot, on the "speed regulator pedal". I do however, believe that the long distances we travel between towns in regional Australia, will mean that fuel powered cars & trucks will be around for many years to come. Every little town has a petrol station. Under that big concrete apron is a very large tank, which is just a a very big existing "battery of power", waiting to be used. Difference is, I pull in; fill up, & I'm off in 5 mins. Just before this bloody pandemic, I delivered a car to my son in Canberra. I drove from Brisbane to Canberra in the one day, including a forced stop in Grafton, to get a flat tyre repaired (1.5 hour). If I had been in an electric car, having to stop every few hours for a charge, I'm sure it would have been after midnight, before I arrived. I believe there are already people working on this problem. We all used to take our barbi gas bottles to BCF or Bunnings to get them filled. Now you just call in at the servo, & swap it", when you fill up the petrol tank. Batteries will become so light & advanced eventually, that we'll probably just do the same with cars. Swap the battery. I seem to remember early days in Brisbane, when I think there were electric buses; & the battery was pulled along behind in a trailer. The bus just called into the depot; & they hooked on another fully charged trailer. Like this . . . We are definitely in a period of "a time of change". There are those that embrace it; & those that take a little longer. Anyway, electric vehicles are not that new. Circa 1904 Cheers Banjo
  13. Here's an interesting topic today, in the press, with a lot of detail: & very much Australian. EV Conversions in Australia. A very good read ! So in this piece, there is mention of current EV conversions to VDubs (Beatles), Dato utes, Range Rovers, Commodores, & even a DeLorean, but no mention of a Corolla ! Has anyone on here ever considered this, or looked into the requirements. Within a couple of months, we'll be just 10 years from the Olympics in Brisbane. Before that date (say 2030) most manufacturers will have gone EV, eg: Volvo. I have noted in the USA, that there is frantic bidding on every "written off" Tesla; just to get hold of the drive chain; presumably for conversions. Hope this topic gets some comments. Maybe Josh & Keith can start a whole new business venture in Blayney ? P.S. Then, I just might start off "small", & VE my ride on lawnmower/tractor, like this guy. https://youtu.be/FLu1UOr9RSs Cheers Banjo
  14. Unbelievable what is still out there undiscovered ! Col, did you take a note of the mileage reading on both ? As Pete says, "That corolla is hella clean." Just looking at the bumpers & hub caps, it looks so pristine. Oh, & that rear screen slated venetian. Cheers Banjo
  15. You're a real artisan Dean ! Hat's off to you. Love your work. Wish I had the patience to take on things like that. Bit like an artist with a blank canvas. In this case; a standard guard; which you just build up, until you get the look you want. Keep the photos coming, once that new shed is built. Cheers Banjo
  16. Hi Moe, I trust you sorted out your Accuspark issues, as they are simply the most reliable, non contact trigger system, you can use, if retaining the distributor, as part of the ignition system. One of my Rollas, has had an Accuspark in it, for years. Other than change the spark plugs as necessary, I have not touched it in years. It is just so reliable ! When I first installed it, I placed a "limp mode" switch in it, in case my Jaycar electronic module failed out on the road somewhere. I've never had to use the "limp mode" switch at all. If you search this forum, for "Accuspark", there are a number of threads. Here is one that may be of interest to you. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73743-electronic-distributor/?tab=comments#comment-712673 Any questions or queries, please give us all a yell. Cheers Banjo
  17. Hi Moe, Although that being a poor utube video, you have connected it up correctly, out of the car to test the coil, according to the video. There are only 4 items in your test setup. 1. The battery. 2. The Ignition coil. 3. The spark plug. 4. The HT Lead between coil tower & the spark plug. The battery is OK. The ignition primary winding is working OK, as you are drawing current through it, when you touch the wire to the spark plug base (which is battery negative. The problem is in the secondary (HV/HT side of the circuit. If it was the spark plug, then the plug would have to be short circuit inside between centre electrode & outside case, or open circuit between, top of spark plug (where HT lead connects) & the centre electrode. Substitue a brand new spark plug to check that is not the case. If is was the HT lead between the spark plug & coil, that is easily proven, by using a new or another HT lead. They won't have all gone O/C at the same time. That only leaves the coil itself as the suspect. With a multimeter, you can measure the primary & secondary resistances. Primary resistance is very low. (couple of ohms at the most between + & - terminals) Secondary is very high as much as 10,000 ohms) My guess is that the secondary winding of the ignition coil being open circuit, but I think you advised the coil was replaced with a new OEM one. Cheers Banjo
  18. Hi Moe, Just read this thread from end to end, trying to work out where something has gone wrong, which is obviously out of the ordinary; as you seem to have tested every individual component, with no positive result, in terms of discovering the issues source. I gather you drove the car around successfully, with a standard coil, ballast resistor & points, without issue. Did the car ignition fail whilst you were driving, or did you park it overnight, & it just wouldn't start the next morning ? If it failed, whilst you were driving it; were you "fanging" it at the time, or just sedately driving around ? As part of the solving of the problem was fitting an electronic module in the distributor, (in place of the points), that may have exacerbated the issue, if that module was not installed properly. I agree with the suggestion to replace the system to standard points; but I guess you have done that, & it still does not fire. As you are not getting a spark at all, we can assume it is not a fuel issue ? Has this engine always been an easy starter, or has it been a difficult starter in the past. What brand of electronic module did you fit to the the dizzy ? Here are a few things I've come across in the years of solving this issue on standard ignition setups. Insulator in the points assembly breaks down & although the points open & close, there is a constant s/c across them. The fine spring behind the carbon bush in the dizzy cap, breaks creating a gap too big in the spark circuit, for a standard coil with ballast resistor to jump. If HT leads between dizzy cap & spark plugs,, & centre dizzy cap to coil tower, are carbon track ones (for low noise interference into radio) then they are known to cause issues. One of the best tests you can do, to see if the issue is LV, or a HT issue, is to try starting in in the pitch dark at night. If there are any HT issues with it breaking down inside leads/cap etc. you will see it clearly. There is one little issue, that could be causing this problem, that hasn't been mentioned as yet. "Timing" Timing issues can be caused by breakages, such as a spring breaking or coming off inside the bob weighs advance / retard mechanical mechanism, in the bowels of the dizzy. Another one, although rarer, is the pin retaining the gear to the bottom of the dizzy shaft breaking & rotating the gear around a bit, before jamming. In K series engines, we have even had the pin locating the camshaft sprocket, to the camshaft proper; sheer & cause all sorts of issues like that. I would take out all spark plugs, so it easy to turn over the engine, & check all the timing, at timing marks on the engine, & the alignment of the dizzy rotor button to the spark plug lead points etc. I wish you luck, & will be very interested when you eventually find the cause of your woes. Cheers Banjo
  19. OMG ! I don't think the USA Space Shuttle was built as strong as this Mini ! Do you calculate the weight of that roll cage ? That's a work of art. Cheers Banjo
  20. Read this interesting article on hybrids entering motorsport next year (2022). http://www.vicorpower.com/resource-library/case-studies/powering-innovation/delta-motorsport Are you & Josh going to be lining up, to fit a hybrid, to a motor sport vehicle ? Bet it has been cold in Blayney this week, & you've both had that wood fired heater running constantly ? Cheers Banjo
  21. Absolutely beautiful ! And a credit to your determination & workmanship. Cheers Banjo
  22. I'm always amazed how much modern cars rely on the "flexibility of the body itself", to provide a percentage of the ride comfort; & not totally rely on the suspension entirely. How much does the stitch welding add to the stiffness of the body total. I've always been amazed how when you jack a Rolla up on one corner only, so the whole end of the car is off the ground, how much the "unjacked" corner sags. It is quite measurable. Cheers Banjo
  23. Love your work Keith ! Keep the pictures coming. Really enjoying the evolving story. Very envious, as I've always dreamt of owning a rotisserie like that. Here's a guy that built one out of wood ! https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/681758-building-wooden-body-rotisserie.html Cheers banjo
  24. Hi Dean, I can see you are a perfectionist ! It will look great in the end. Your's looks a bloody sight better than this guys one 1 Cheers Banjo
  25. Hi Dean, I've never had the patience to take on something as radical, as you suggest, but admire your enthusiasm & commitment to your car. The way you don't just rush into something, but think about it, & even mock it up, is a great attribute. I love the idea you had of taping the body work, so as not to damage the paintwork, then gluing the prototype spoiler to the tape. Is the dummy spoiler cut out of plastic, thick cardboard, or plywood ? Looks great ! Would the final product be "bolt on", or made to be a permanent part of the boot lid ? Cheers Banjo
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