Banjo

Hi Thomas, Have You ever watched this guy on utube, regarding his assessment of all Toyota engines. He has a few videos, & is widely followed. Toyota Engine Assessmets In one He talks about the incredible reliability of the 1NZ-FE & 2NZ-FE engines, fitted to Yaris, Echos, & Corollas. I once looked at the possibility of the 1NZ-FE transplant to a KE series Corolla, after I purchased an Echo, for my daughter. The big problem, is it is an east/west engine, & needs some serious mods to fabricate mounting points. The other problem, is the inability to mate an inline gearbox & clutch, to the 1NZ-FE, without an adaptor; which I don't think still does not exist. I did a couple of Google searches, & strangely came across a thread on RollaClub, back in 2017, where a number of us; weighed in on this subject. I'd forgotten, all about it. You might like to have a read, at this link. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73681-cheap-4ks-maybe-not-anymore/#comment-712069 Cheers Banjo

Drill press is always the best. Centre punch, small drill then work your way up, with larger drills, until it's the right size for the tap, for your particular fan switch. Many of those brass switches & temp sensors, have a tapered thread. Never ever leaks ! That's why they are tapered, so they basically "jam tight", as You screw them in. Cheers Banjo

I have seen a thermostat cover/spout, with a threaded hole right on the top, that is the perfect place to put a electric fan "high temp" switch. (95 deg C is a usual/common fan switch temp) Anyway, I could not get hold of one, so filed a small flat on the top of the thermostat cover/spout; drilled & threaded a hole & fitted a hi temp switch. It's been in my daily drive, for years, & works like a charm. P.S. My aluminium radiator & fan is out of a Toyota Echo. Works a treat. The fan rarely comes on, when driving, as the ram effect of the air is enough to reduce the coolant temp. However, when I pull up in the driveway, after a run; the fan cuts in; & about 5-7 minutes later shuts down. Works like a dream, so the position above the thermostat, is a perfect fan control point, in the coolant flow path. Don't use a T fitting for two temp sensor. The temperature guage sensor, is best fitted to the standard guage point, on the lower thermostat housing, on the LHS, viewed from the front of the car. Works perfectly there. Cheers Banjo

Hi Thomas, As I expected; when You reverse the standard top hose spout cover over the thermostat, it leaves a small gap, for the coolant to pour out. However, on the opposite underside of the thermostat cover/spout; the gap is not very wide at all; but there still is a gap. Because the gaps are pretty small; You could possibily cut a piece of flat sheet metal, to cover these holes, with a big round hole in the middle. You'd also need to cut a appropriate gasket either side of the flat sheet metal plate, & use gasket cement, to make sure there are no leaks. Might be an easier solution, than trying to source one of those reverse spouts, that I didn't even know existed. Cheers Banjo

Hi Thomas, Superb little project ! That last link, Attezzaclub posted goes back nearly a decade & a half. After reading it again, I'm starting to feel "olde" ! Keep up the good work; & keep posting pics thereof ! Cheers Banjo

The centre line between the two mounting holes, does not pass through the centre of the open area. It will probably bolt down OK, but will leave a slight gap on one or both sides, which will leak or blow, with minimal face to face, one or both sides. I'll try it tomorrow, & see. Cheers Banjo

No unfortunately. Definitely not symmetrical !

In theory, they visibly look like they are, (says He scratching his head), I'll have to go out ito the garage & try one. (too late in the day, is my excuse !) Cheers Banjo

Frankly, after all the K Series engines, I've seen on the net, & in real life; I can't remember ever seeing one with the top outlet spout, pointing towards the RHS. All the ones I've seen point towards the LHS; as on my 4K test bed engine below. That is definitely a 5K head. It was the only K Series head with two "knobs" in the casting under the end spark plug sockets, I'm led to believe. The crankshaft front pulley, looks as if it is 5K. The two sandwiched pulleies were common, as the 5K engines were used in Toyota forklifts & the like, & drove various pumps/compressors etc, off the additional pulley. However, the front camshaft sprocket cover, does not look 5K, as the timing chain marks are in the wrong place. Definitely get a top hose outlet, that points in the opposite direction. Will look so much better, in the engine bay. As far as I know, the bottom thermostat housings are all the same, as are the water pumps. Someone correct me, if I'm wrong. Have You had this engine running ? If the block is a 5K, then T.D.C. No 1, will be a bit out, if You line up the crank pulley timing nick, with the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket case. I covered this topic, in a post years ago, when I fitted a 5K crankshaft pully, onto a 4K engine. Cheers Banjo

Hi Liam, As the AM radio is working fine, the fault that is preventing You from receiving FM signals, is not fuse or externally related. I'm pretty sure the fault will be within the radio iteself; although a poor aerial connection, may allow AM stations that are strong, but prevent recption of FM signals. I've never taken one out of the "head units", so I'm afraid I can't help You there. It will require the removal to inspect. Cheers Banjo

I presume the wheel base dimension of the waggons, were a little greater than the sedan, so the tail-shaft would be longer, I would think. Have a read through this post of mine, from years ago; where I basically found there was little difference in any of the gearbox "length" dimenions, although gearbox mounting points could vary slightly. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74057-auto-to-manual-ke-55/#comment-714992 The only dimension, that could possible affect the swap; would be the distance of the tailshaft flange on the front of the diff, to the centerline of the diff, where the axles are. There were the "banjo" type" diffs, which usually were fitted to fully imported Jaspanese models. Quite often, Aust/ AAMI assembled Corollas, had Borg Warner diffs with split cases. Actually, I've got one of both of those, in the garage; so next time I'm out there, I'll take a measurement off both. The other way, is to temporarily mount the gearbox & diff, You are thinking of fitting, & measure the distance between tailshaft flanges. There is some adjustment in the splines on the front of the tailshaft, where it slides into the gearbox rear end, but I wouldn't use them unless about 3/4s of their spline lengths, were in contact. Cheers Banjo

Extra $ 250 gets You an AUTOMATIC ! When I bought my KE-30 (1974) 2 door from a little olde lady, it had a 2 speed auto in it, & 96K klms on the speedo. She couldn't have thrashed it; even if She wanted to. Didn't take long before I fitted a 5 speed gear box. Cheers Banjo

Hi Erica, This thread started nearly 15 years ago. I would hope that it has been sorted by now ! Have You recently had the gearbox out, & any clutch work or replacements carried out ? Cheers Banjo

Came across this March 1968 Modern Motor magazine advertisement, this afternoon; which will bring a smile to some faces. Now Toyota Corolla 1100 gives you the choice - all synco 4-speed gearbox, or brand new-fully automatic Toyoglide transmission ! Slip the stubbyToyoglide lever into "drive". No need to change for traffic lights or hills. Automatic kick-down gives first gear acceleration for any emergency. Slip into "L" and Corolla holds first gear. You can't change from neutral to reverse accidentally. "P" for Park brake on the transmission. Flashing performance from Corolla's 60 horsepower engine. 36 m.p.g. plus fuel ecomomy. Built-in heater/ demistor . . . hipster reclining bucket seats . . . windscreen washers . . . 2 speed wipers . . . and more. Now have your excitement machine without changing gears ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tony, Have a read through this post, about 8 years ago, where this subject was covered. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73368-4k-change-pistons-to-flat/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/40853-what-pistons-are-these/#comment-433565 There are two types of 4K blocks. You have a simple 4K block. There is another 4K-U block, which developes more HP. I have one of those in my KE-30 2 door. There is a picture in the Toyota yellow K Series engine repair manual, which shows a picture of the mark on the piston, that must be positioned to the front of the engine. It depicts two A & B type pistons; the only difference; one being flat topped; & the other is partially dished; exactly the same as your photo. The little single dot indentation in your pistons, should point towards the front of the engine. There was also a 4K-C engine produced, that according to the Toyota workshop manual; were only exported to Australia & Sweden. The C, usually meant that the engine complied to Californian emissions regulations; as that state was, I believe; was the first state in the USA, to create emission requirements for gasoline engines. Cheers Banjo

Well, finally got around to wiring up the COP mounting bar. I wanted to make all the wiring from the COPs hidden, inside the rectangular section of the aluminium mounting tube. However, as the COP shafts pass through the rectangular section; it doesn't leave much room to squeeze all the wires past COPS near the end where the wires, all exit from the tube. I also didn't want to squib on the wiring size, for two reasons. I wanted pretty heavy wire for the ground & +12V supplies to the COPs, as there are reasonably high currents involved, & we don't want any voltage drops. Anyway, it all just fitted, so pleased with the result. The alternative was to add another wiring conduit or tube; & that would have detracted from the clean lines of the COP mounting bracket. Have powered them all up, & had them sparking perfectly with a test circuit, to fire the COPs, one after another. I also needed to identify the 4 off trigger wires, as I used the same colour (blue) for all trigger wires Because the spark plugs on the K Series engine, were recessed into the head, I wanted to seal this area, around the COP long tube; so no rubbish got down inside there, around the spark plugs. I couldn't find a commercial rubber bung of any kind on the nett, to accomplish this. On the original K series distributor HT leads, this "seal" was moulded into the leads. I cut the ends off an olde set of leads, & with a very sharp hobby knife cut out the inner part, so it left a hole to fit snuggly around the COP shaft. Just have to now fit it to my 4KU in my KE-30, & work out where to terminate & mount a connection block for the wiring & plug & socket, so the COP assembly, can easily be removed from the engine, so the spark plugs can be removed. It may however, be just as simple, to remove the 4 off COPs, & then remove the spark plugs, without removing the complete assembly. Once I've got it on the engine, I'll make that decision. I also found that the COPs mounting bolts, & the gold COP mounting frame, were not grounded ! There was about 6-7 Megohms resistance between them & the head. The COP mounting frame, is attached to the rocker cover. The rocker cover is actually isolated from ground, via the big rubber gasket around it's bottom edge, & the two bolts that attach it to the head. I found a little earthing strap, from the rocker cover to the head, solved this issue. One of the common issues with COPs, on modern engines; is that they overheat. This is particularly common, in twin overhead cam engines, wher the COPs are "buried" down inside the head body, with little or no air flow around them. This will not be an issue, with my setup, as there will be plenty of air flow over almost all the COP assembly. Once it is on the car & in use, I'll check the temperature of No:1 & No:4 COP bodies, & see whether there is any difference. Cheers Banjo

Hi John, Sorry, I went & looked again, & You are right that Bunnings do not seem to stock it. My error. When I took a look again the one Bunnings market, looks very similar, in a yellow & read container, & is called Ranex RUSTBUSTER.

Thanks Pete ! I must have been living under a rock; as I've never come across KBS Rust Blast previously. Sounds like good stuff. It's even available at Bunnings, apparently. This is what Google says about it . . . Thank You for that pointer. I'll try it out very shortly, as my bonnet has a few sections that need treatment. Cheers Banjo

Glad You are into it ! Hope is addictive, & not too despressing. I'd really be concentrating on the structural bits first, as they are the most important, after all. Shame to do all the surface & visual pieces, & then find later on, that there is a structural section, beyond repair, & that all the visual; non structural clean up, was in vain. A simple rotisserie would be good, so it is easy on your back. No fun working upside down, when You get to the underfloor area. Metal Rotisserie Wooden Rotisserie Cheers Banjo

Hi Tony, My guess is; that now You will want to calculate the new "compression ratio", of your 60 thou bored engine. This is a little more complicated, depending on whether you have flat top pistons; or pistons with domed or concave top faces. This calculation, should also take into account the thickness of the head gasket, once torqued down, to be truly accurate. Here is a variety of sites tackling this question, if Your interest requires this information. How to Calculate the Compression Ratio Obviously, if you bore the engine, & leave the combustion area in the head untouched; the compression ratio, will increase. Question is; by how much ? This link here on Rollaclub, from over a decade ago, might help ? https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69246-4k-engines/ Cheers Banjo

The volume of a single cylinder is Pi x r squared x the stroke. 22/7 x bore/2 x bore/2 x stroke. For a standard 4K engine, the bore is 75mm & the stroke is 73mm Substituting these into the above equation give (22/7) x (75/2) x (75/2) x 73 = 3.1429 x 37.5 x 37.5 x 73 = 322638.33 cu mm Divide that by 1000 to obtain cubic centimeters & you obtain 322.64 cu cm. That is for one cylinder. To calculate that for 4 cylinders, simple multiple by four. 322.64 x 4 = 1290.56 cc, which is what the good book says the capacity is for a standard 4K engine. Now simply add 1.524mm (60 thou) to the bore dimension, & recalculate. 3.1429 x (75.00+ 1.524)/2 x (75 +1.524)/2 x 73 = 3.1429 x 38.26 x 38.26 x 73 = 335.85 cu cm Multiple that by 4 & you get a new volume of 1343.4 cc. Subtract the original standard volume = 1343.40 - 1290.56 = 52.84 cc. or an extra 13.21 cc to each cylinder's swept bore capacity. Yep, basically, the same as Simons calc. Cheers Banjo

I'm intrigued now; as to why all three (3) brand new mechanical fuel pumps, mechanically failed; all with damaged diaphrams, in a short period of time; when You had utilised the spacer block to mount them off the engine block mounting point ? The only thing I could suggest; was that the curved arm on the aftermarket ones, was a different shape or profile, to the Toyota original supplied & fitted pump ? My KE30 with a 4K-U engine has been running a mechanical pump for 20 years, I've owned it, without issues. They are not real good at drawing/sucking, without priming; but once that line has got fuel in it, they never stop or fail; from my experience. Got me beat ! However, I applaud your determination to fit a good electric fuel pump, in the boot area, close to petrol tank. It is the way to go. P.S. In a petrol / carby engine, the fuel pump is one item, you can actually drive, without using one at all. Many years ago, in an olde English car, the S.U. fuel pump failed, in the middle of no where. A small plastic jerry can, was roped to the roof rack, & a plastic tube run from said plastic jerry can, to the carby fuel inlet. A quick suck on the tube to get the fuel running down the plastic hose, & we drove all the way from Brisbane to Sydney, without so much as a hiccup ! I think it is referred to, as "gravity feed". True story. Cheers Banjo

No, No, No ! New mechanical fuel pumps do not fail like that, or so quickly. I think I know what is your problem ? Not supplied with any of the new mechanical fuel pumps You have purchased in the past, is a fibre spacer, about 12mm think, that fits between the fuel pump flange, & the side of the engine block, where the pump fits. If you omit this spacer, the fuel pump arm is "too close" to the offset lobe on the camshaft, that operates the mechanical fuel pump. This means the diaphram in the pump travels too far up, & either tears the diaphram, or breaks the pump. Put the spacer back in, & your mechanical fuel pump issues will disappear, immediately. Some lots of replacement K Series replacement pumps are sold with two (2) off gaskets. They are not being generous. The two gaskets are for fitting to both sides of the spacer block. I've even seen one pump advertised, which includes the spacer block. Guaranteed to solve your problem ! Cheers Banjo

Don't forget, that our friend here (Knibusu), does not have fuel injection. His car has a simple carby. These type of 12V fuel pumps only typically produce 4-6 PSI. They are however, much better at "pushing fuel" than sucking/drawing it; which is a good reason to locate the pump, in the boot area, close to the fuel tank. However, this "Facet" brand pump, is not a cheap pump; & is quite sophistcated. Apparently, as soon as there is sufficient back pressure it turns itself off, or reduces it's output, according to this discussion I found on the web, at the link below. I know even the early SU fuel pumps used to basically turn off, or reduce the flow, as my Dad had an early Morris straight 6 (like the Worsley 6/80), & the SU fuel pump was on the passengers side on the rear of the engine bay, & you could hear it ticking away, & changing it's beat. The SUs were not very good at sucking either. I think on the very first Minis, the SU was up front; but later Minis, had the SU, right at the rear, near the tank. https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/19591-Facet-electric-pumps-Fuel-return Cheers Banjo

The more I think about this technique, the more questions it raises, in my mind. The motor racing industry, may well require such a device, but for a normal road car, the implications of low or lack of oil pressure, whilst driving, & the engine just shutting itself off, outside of your control; could be extremely dangerous. The oil safety light on the dash of most cars is really all that You require. Have a read of the comments at this link. https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/wiring-electic-fuel-pump.43215/ When you first turn the ignition key "On"; before trying to start the car, the dash oil pressure warning light comes on, which tells you, "that the oil press sensor is working". When you start the engine & the oil pressure is generated, the warning light goes out; & You definitely know that the oil pressure is present & working OK. I suggest, that if You are concerned, or interested about oil pressure, in your engine; that You fit an oil pressure guage, to your dash area. You will learn more about oil pressure watching that over time. I simply think, that providing your car & engine, the ability to shut down the engine, whilst You are driving; "outside your control", could be downright dangerous. eg: You are highway driving, at say 100 klm/hr. Your oil level in the engine, is a bit on the low side. You approach a big curve in the road, & the sideward force moves the oil in the sump, sideways; & the intake pickup for the oil pump, grabs some air, as it is now not totally covered with oil. An instantaneous switching of your oil pressure safety switch, turns the engine off. You are on a curve, at elevated speed. The possible ramifications could well prove fatal, if You lose control. I could not imagine a rally drivers, ever considering fitting such a protection device to their engine. That engine gives one cough, whilst drifting sideways with opposite lock, on a dirt road, among the trees, is a complete "no no" to my mind. I'm open to others point of view, but personally, I do not think, it is a useful addition, to your road car. P.S. When assembling a fully reconditioned engine, all the bearing areas, are "assembled wet", with oil. The engine may also be turned over by the starter motor, without spark plugs or ignition connected, so all oilways in the block & head are filled. The only other situation, I can imagine, which might require such an action; is if an engine has been sitting for years, & is being started for the first time. Remove the plugs & turn the engine over, on the starter motor, is a common precaution. On top of that the Facet electric fuel pump, is a fairly expensive & highly sophisticated fuel pump, which is self adjusting, & provides a constant pressure, according to the maufacturers description. Would like to hear others thoughts on this matter. P.S. As a matter of interest; where did you mount the Facet Electronic fuel pump ? Is it in the boot area, adjacent to the fuel tank, or up in the engine bay somewhere, close to the engine proper ? P.S.S. Is this a transducer for an oil pressure guage ? Cheers Banjo