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Hey Guys I do not own this car, I just came across it on facebook, not sure if its been posted before but look at this. Looks like alot of work has gone into this car. I came across his instagram to: https://www.instagram.com/siamrat_ss What a wonderful build.

Cheers @Banjo I like to document things so that if anyone in the near future wants to do the same modification, there is documented information for them to refer to and may make it a bit more easier for them.

Today finally got everything back together. Ported the intake manifold at work. Installed the headers and put everything back together Can not wait to get the exhaust system done and finally drive the car. Has been sitting in the garage for 8 months. When its all done gonna take it to a Car and Coffee and enjoy the cruise.

The stars are aligning, I forgot I had a spare intake manifold from a 4k engine that I had laying around Took it to work and put it in the robowash, and put big bertha on it to remove the EGR nut. Robowash and Wire Wizz came out not to bad no sure if i should vapour blast them and hit it with some hight temp chrome paint. Test fitted them to the engine and man both the stock intake manifold and extractors are the same flang thickness and it clamps tight and flush to the block, M10 washers are abit to small to cover both the intake and headers, so I will pick up some M12 and see if that helps, but even with just the nut they still clamp nice and tight. Just need to hit the intake manifold with the carbide to port out the intake manifold for more airflow, not sure if it really makes a difference but more air for a 2 inch exhaust system let the 4k breathe babyyyy. Finally get it all back together ready to tow to my exhaust guy to put a 2 inch exhaust system on the KE70 Wagon.

Yep I think that is the go, even these washers in the picture normal m10 washer if i grind the side down keeping the middle circle it will still fit on the stud and fill the gap so i think I'm gonna grind down some washers and do the superglue method, thankyou for everyones input and help.

UPDATE: Wildcat 116 4K Extractors Came today, just installed them, and yeah ive done myself a mischief, this is a learning lesson, always buy once, poor man pays twice, so yeah the Wilcat Extractors fit like a glove to the block and had no gaps, even without the two bolts tightened all the way the two extractors bolts that hold the extractos no gaps between the engine face and the extractors. My only problem now is, I chewed to much metal off from the intake manifold, I guess those ebay stainless ones were alot thinner, my options are I machine the Wildcat Flange down to match the intake manifold, or I cut some washers in half, like halfmoon washers and superglue them to the intake manifold and bolt them up, or just source another intake manifold and do it properly, which I think from learning from this is always try to do it properly if you can first. I will see if I can get another intake manifold if not I will go the half moon washer route. Lesson learnt always buy reputable parts.

I like the stance of that yeah tyres are abit tall, but still good fitment yeah bummer the 13 inch willwood brake setup dorsnt fit the stock rims, in gonna run 14's asswell, I went to Lovells suspension here at my lical in Western Australia to enquire about front lowering springs, unfortunately there sport low which I believe is 30mm drop not available, but they had there super low 25-60mm, I thought I would experiment there is a video on youtube of Vinnie Rola using the super lows on his stock ke70 struts so I thought why not. For the shock absorber inserts I am going to swap up the liquid filled oem ones with KYB EXCEL-G CARTDRUDGE - 363023 which apparently is just a direct oem solution replacement. As for the rear leafs I am gonna get them reset and install rear coilivers from Techo Toy Tuning "T3 Rear Coilivers" the KYB AGX, adjustable damper style ones. If the fronts are to low and don't work well then I will get the king springs sport low version. But for now I will see how the Lovell spring and KYB EXCEL-G Front setup go. As for my wheels I came across BCI wheels they do a 4-114.3 14x6 +12 they did have a 14x7 +9 but unfortunately removed them from there catalogue so the 14x6 will have to suffice.

Cheers @altezzaclub so the Front KFRL-16 it is, yeah i think with a 30mm drop it wont be to bad, yeah ill have a look into the original oem style shock just to freshen up the front suspension, I bought the KE70 BC Gold coilovers with spare KE70 spindles sadly I sold them because I didnt think I was gonna lower it anytime soon, here I am wanting to lower my Wagon dumb of me, In the future I will convert to AE86 front Suspension and willwood brakes but for now just want a slightly lowered stance to fill in the guards abit.

Here to add some information and get some help I have a March 1983 Toyota Corolla KE70 Wagon, early model based of the front hubs and I measured to strut housing and the outside diameter came around to 45mm, and the bottom strut spring perch measured 140mm outside diameter so I am just wondering what lowering spring can I use for this strut assembly and and reccomendations on the shock absorber insert to use.

Hey Guys Need some help again, I'm finally getting my exhaust done, and having dramas with the extractors I have taken photos to clarify some stuff I have mentioned previously and may be able to help point me in the right direction. So I have gone to M10x1.25 exhaust manifold studs, and as you can see the middle right side the header piping hits the nut, easy enough fix shave down the side until it threads all the way or gind a sized nut with a skinny width profile. Now I have installed the Permaseal Manifold Gasket - EM30 I am having a problem with clamping, the 4k intake manifold is mint seals up nicely and there is no gaps, but as for the headers the middle of the headers outlet flange there is a gap, I'm not talking about the side middle gaps for the intake manifold I'm talking about the actually mid headers flange has a gap. I used my feeler guage and 0.05mm feeler guage goes straight down the left side until it hits the bottom of the pipe so that means only the top of the middle left header has a gap, the right middle is okay. So my only conclusion is these are poorly welded and or warped, and you can also see in the previous comment I made with the headers the middle outlet pipes are alot more spread out compared to the wildcat and or hurricane headers. Or another option is which I don't think is the proper or best way to do it as I don't want to keep having to deal with thee problem is use the gasket that came with it to fill the gap. Picture of my port job on my Intake Manifold with Die Grinder and Carbide Bit I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get the hurricane headers I like the blue and I know alot of people have ran them on their 4k ke70s, where as a ebay headers that has been manafactuared who knows where may not be the best. Any thoughts or Ideas of what I should do would be greatly appreciated.

Oh I see what you mean so the black male pin plug goes into one of the stock harness headlight plugs the other one unused, then the yellow pin plugs go direct into the headlight bulb and the black wire connected to yellow plugs is ground and the red wire is battery positive.

$30 bucks can not go wrong I will try it out thankyou

Hello I just changed my headlights over from sealed unit to semi sealed, and upon reading this I am guessing you use a relay to to help with brightness and I am wanting to install relays but the link is no longer working, does anyone have a writeup on how to install relays for the headlights.

Yeah every single pump I got came with the spacer and two gaskets. I keep the spacer and gaskets as spares now 😆, but yeah I don't know, I'm gonna try the electric fuel pump setup and see how I go. Also I had a look at my ignition switch and tested each terminal with a multimeter to test for 12V source I am a bit of a visual learner so looking at the wiring diagram I understand it a little bit but actually seeing the circuit and testing gave me a better understanding Ill let you guys now how I go with the installation and keep you posted. 🤙. I also have a immobiliser in my and the previous owner ran it off ST2 seeing that and testing voltage when immobiliser is on and off was interesting to.

At a cost perspective yeah it might be better to just run a mechanical fuel pump, but ive gone through three mechanical fuel pumps within the year, always the same thing the diaphragm giving out and puncturing and fuel pump leaking. Any they are not cheap either Both goss and fuelmiser I have used and they have both failed. So the thought of running the electric fuel pump tempted me. Yes you might spend a little bit to set it up but the advantages are there. This is the electric fuel pump I'm going with its a aeroflow electric fuel pump adjustable from 4.5 to 7 psi