knibusu

Honestly had a really hard time trying to get the throttle linkage setup there is not a lot of information on how people run the linkages on a stock 4K engine with Weber 32/36 but after some mucking around and getting a proper throttle linkage, it is running smoothly.

Got the car idling with the Weber 32/36 it sounds TOUGH!! few low end revs of the throttle, with just the 4-1 extractors, next step fabricating a 2 inch system exhaust with 1.5 inch blast pipes at the end this is gonna be fun.

Finally was able to mock up my Weber After installing Weber and trying to use the universal linkage was not the best for the barrel type accelerator cable so had to call up Recarb and get there throttle linkage they do for the 4K engine safe to say its working, cranked the car for a second heard how loud the headers alone were chose not to start and idle the car as it was late so will try this afternoon.

Yeah cool, good to know the ones I purchased are the same, yeah ended up buying the permaseal manifold gasket em30 one piece gasket, I'm waiting for my throttle wheel for my weber 32/36 but been a week hopefully it arrives this weekend, but I might just take my headers off and manifold and do a bench test to see if they sit flat together or needs more modification, as I did use a file to shave abit of the intake manifold to finally squeeze it passed the headers and sit on the block but the only problem was the middle of the headers wasnt sitting flush ill remove from the engine and have to see thanks for the advice.

Yeah thanks for that I'm not sure if its the brand of extractors I purchased is causing it, or its just the thickness of exhaust flange is different to manifold, I wanted the stainless steel ones so I purchased those, but maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment.

Old post but question about headers, those 4-1 headers do they need a slight shave to make them work with the 4KC manifold, I used a spare manifold I had laying around one without the egr, when I went to mock up the headers theres is a slight gap in the middle of the headers when it sits against the engine and I also had to shave a bit of the manifold to squeeze the headers in but I think I need to shave the header surface to make it fit better.

Yeah thanks guys it was the circlip and will be putting a hose clamp on for extra security, I was able to get a circlip from Toyota Parts I bought a spare just in case hehe, also wondering anyone know where to get a clutch cable from because mine is pretty stretched, I put the circlip on the second notch, but cable looks like its seen better days

Hey Guys this just happened to me driving home from work went to shift from 2nd to 3rd and heard a noise went to feel the clutch and lost tension in the pedal, everything else is fine can still shift gears good, no grinding or slippage in the gearbox, its just that my clutch pedal no longer has tension at the top and it is very loose, and the bite point is now super low like 4cm off the floor. Has my circlip fallen off is that what holds the gromet into the firewall I have videos to show you what I mean any help would be appreciated and the part number or were to get circlip would be helpful.

Hey Guys I am looking at touching up some areas of my car with touch up paint, question my color code next to COLOR/TRIM is "BL-TV-GP" if I take that to Super Cheap Auto would they be able to colour match that paint code. I had a look at import archive and the colour codes on their seem to be different to the one on my TOYOTA Build Plate.

Hey Jentriken I am also, thinking about going the Weber 32/36 you would not mind posting a picture of your engine bay so I can figure out what I need to remove, or is it basically keep dizzy advance and charcoal canister vacuum line and remove, old carby, vaccum lines, and EGR. But a Few photos of the engine bay would be nice which I can then use as Reference.

KNIBBZY KE70 WAGON BUILD So I have decided to make a build thread for my KE70 wagon, it is going to be a long process but I thought having a space to post updates would be nice. I will try and post YouTube videos of the build on my channel as well if anyone is interested.

So guys I finally got around to dropping my tank and yeah its pretty bad, probably the main cause of my ke70 not running/stalling out/shutting off on me. No wonder I was having running issues related to fuel, and carby. This is my fuel sending unit, does anyone know where I can get a wagon specific fuel sending unit or could I use a KE70 Sedan one. Here is the part number of the KE70 Wagon Fuel Sending Unit Also my fuel tank has a intank fuel cap flapper door made out of plastic, its like on a hinge near the filler neck and there is also a plastic tube surround on one of the fuel lines inside the tank, can you remove those or are they not removable, as I am getting my tank cleaned, rust treated and lined with red kote, but if I cannot get these two things removed in the fuel tank, I may not be able to re line my tank, unless I get them to cut open the tank and see if they can remove it and get them to reweld tank but that is going to cost more money if thats the case i reckon.

Well I think I found the root of my problem being the coil being the wrong way and having the wires connected incorrectly, I will have to try to install the electronic ignition module next weekend, when I have some more time I will keep you posted.

Guess what I think you are right altezzaclub, I span the coil around so +ve is now on the right side and -ve is on the left side, cranked my car up and she fired so I had my wires on the coil wrong and I checked my old Lucas coil and +ve was on the right and -ve on the left I must of not realized that the Bosch GT40R had different positioning or I wanted to have the logo facing up and maybe forgot to switch the wires in the correct wiring , I am an absolute donkey, maybe now when I go back to reinstall my electronic module kit it will actually fire the engine this time.

Hey Guys this is how I have my ignition coil setup, but now by looking at the diagram I feel like my wiring is wrong on the ignition coil, but the car still starts, drives, and runs fine. As you can see the red wires (not sure what they are can someone let me know) are connected to -ve should that not be connected to +ve, also my distributor wire that connects from the outside of the dizzy which is connected to the contact point and condenser is connected to +ve should that not be connected to -ve, I do not know what the brown wire is but that is connected to +ve.