knibusu

Honestly had a really hard time trying to get the throttle linkage setup there is not a lot of information on how people run the linkages on a stock 4K engine with Weber 32/36 but after some mucking around and getting a proper throttle linkage, it is running smoothly.

Got the car idling with the Weber 32/36 it sounds TOUGH!! few low end revs of the throttle, with just the 4-1 extractors, next step fabricating a 2 inch system exhaust with 1.5 inch blast pipes at the end this is gonna be fun.

Finally was able to mock up my Weber After installing Weber and trying to use the universal linkage was not the best for the barrel type accelerator cable so had to call up Recarb and get there throttle linkage they do for the 4K engine safe to say its working, cranked the car for a second heard how loud the headers alone were chose not to start and idle the car as it was late so will try this afternoon.

Yeah cool, good to know the ones I purchased are the same, yeah ended up buying the permaseal manifold gasket em30 one piece gasket, I'm waiting for my throttle wheel for my weber 32/36 but been a week hopefully it arrives this weekend, but I might just take my headers off and manifold and do a bench test to see if they sit flat together or needs more modification, as I did use a file to shave abit of the intake manifold to finally squeeze it passed the headers and sit on the block but the only problem was the middle of the headers wasnt sitting flush ill remove from the engine and have to see thanks for the advice.

Yeah thanks for that I'm not sure if its the brand of extractors I purchased is causing it, or its just the thickness of exhaust flange is different to manifold, I wanted the stainless steel ones so I purchased those, but maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment.

Old post but question about headers, those 4-1 headers do they need a slight shave to make them work with the 4KC manifold, I used a spare manifold I had laying around one without the egr, when I went to mock up the headers theres is a slight gap in the middle of the headers when it sits against the engine and I also had to shave a bit of the manifold to squeeze the headers in but I think I need to shave the header surface to make it fit better.

Yeah thanks guys it was the circlip and will be putting a hose clamp on for extra security, I was able to get a circlip from Toyota Parts I bought a spare just in case hehe, also wondering anyone know where to get a clutch cable from because mine is pretty stretched, I put the circlip on the second notch, but cable looks like its seen better days

Hey Guys this just happened to me driving home from work went to shift from 2nd to 3rd and heard a noise went to feel the clutch and lost tension in the pedal, everything else is fine can still shift gears good, no grinding or slippage in the gearbox, its just that my clutch pedal no longer has tension at the top and it is very loose, and the bite point is now super low like 4cm off the floor. Has my circlip fallen off is that what holds the gromet into the firewall I have videos to show you what I mean any help would be appreciated and the part number or were to get circlip would be helpful.

Hey Guys I am looking at touching up some areas of my car with touch up paint, question my color code next to COLOR/TRIM is "BL-TV-GP" if I take that to Super Cheap Auto would they be able to colour match that paint code. I had a look at import archive and the colour codes on their seem to be different to the one on my TOYOTA Build Plate.

Hey Jentriken I am also, thinking about going the Weber 32/36 you would not mind posting a picture of your engine bay so I can figure out what I need to remove, or is it basically keep dizzy advance and charcoal canister vacuum line and remove, old carby, vaccum lines, and EGR. But a Few photos of the engine bay would be nice which I can then use as Reference.

KNIBBZY KE70 WAGON BUILD So I have decided to make a build thread for my KE70 wagon, it is going to be a long process but I thought having a space to post updates would be nice. I will try and post YouTube videos of the build on my channel as well if anyone is interested.

So guys I finally got around to dropping my tank and yeah its pretty bad, probably the main cause of my ke70 not running/stalling out/shutting off on me. No wonder I was having running issues related to fuel, and carby. This is my fuel sending unit, does anyone know where I can get a wagon specific fuel sending unit or could I use a KE70 Sedan one. Here is the part number of the KE70 Wagon Fuel Sending Unit Also my fuel tank has a intank fuel cap flapper door made out of plastic, its like on a hinge near the filler neck and there is also a plastic tube surround on one of the fuel lines inside the tank, can you remove those or are they not removable, as I am getting my tank cleaned, rust treated and lined with red kote, but if I cannot get these two things removed in the fuel tank, I may not be able to re line my tank, unless I get them to cut open the tank and see if they can remove it and get them to reweld tank but that is going to cost more money if thats the case i reckon.

Well I think I found the root of my problem being the coil being the wrong way and having the wires connected incorrectly, I will have to try to install the electronic ignition module next weekend, when I have some more time I will keep you posted.

Guess what I think you are right altezzaclub, I span the coil around so +ve is now on the right side and -ve is on the left side, cranked my car up and she fired so I had my wires on the coil wrong and I checked my old Lucas coil and +ve was on the right and -ve on the left I must of not realized that the Bosch GT40R had different positioning or I wanted to have the logo facing up and maybe forgot to switch the wires in the correct wiring , I am an absolute donkey, maybe now when I go back to reinstall my electronic module kit it will actually fire the engine this time.

Hey Guys this is how I have my ignition coil setup, but now by looking at the diagram I feel like my wiring is wrong on the ignition coil, but the car still starts, drives, and runs fine. As you can see the red wires (not sure what they are can someone let me know) are connected to -ve should that not be connected to +ve, also my distributor wire that connects from the outside of the dizzy which is connected to the contact point and condenser is connected to +ve should that not be connected to -ve, I do not know what the brown wire is but that is connected to +ve.

Okay guys I tried to install the PowerSpark Electronic Ignition kit and the engine did not want to crank over. This kit may not be compatible with my type of Bosch distributor, unless I have missed a important step. I recorded myself trying to install the kit so if anyone has any idea of what I did wrong or insight into what the problem might be feel free to let me know.

Hey Guys just and update, I was able to find a Electronic Ignition Kit for the Bosch Style Distributors, I just hope its compatiable as I do not know the part number for the old bosch style distributors but by looking at the point type and the description stating the kit is used for bosch 1 hand piece points distributor it should work fine.

WHAT IS THE CORRECT OIL FILTER CAN THERE BE SLIGHT VARIATIONS BUT ALL WORK ON THE KE70 We all know we can use the RYCO Z68 Oil Filter on the KE70 By looking at my parts diagram on Yoshi Parts this is what I found. As you can see the vehicle details are almost correct and correspond to my vehicle specifications with the only difference being the Grade of the wagon which is says DX and mine is a CS Grade. As you can see it states the old part number of the Toyota Genuine Filter you were able to purchase which is 15601-33020 I was able to find photos of the old filter. On the box it states its can be used for a 4KC engine And now here is the New Toyota Genuine Replacement Filter as mentioned on the Diagram 15601-33021 Now to throw a curve ball the genuine filters look the same size as the RYCO Z68 so its safe to assume that these genuine Filters are usable on the 4KC engines, when we do an oil and filter replacement we change the filter and put 3.5L of oil in. Here is the curve ball. The 90915-YZZN2 TOYOTA GENUINE OIL FILTER this filer can also be used for the 4K engine but is half the size of the recommended 15601-33021 TOYOTA GENUINE FILTER So is the smaller oil filter usable for the 4K engines, and what do you reckon the differences will be on the engine side, the bigger filter means you use more oil to fill the filter, but with these small filters you would not need as much oil to fill the filter up, how would it affect your engine.

Yeah I really should keep some duck tape in the car, yeah the wagon also has some surface rust on the roof too, and abit on the rear window around the seal which I need to repair soonish before it gets bad, the sedan is pretty good no structual rust but mainly around the front windscreen and on the pillars and the boot seal other than that pretty mint. I was meant to spray can the rest of the car but after getting the wagon I got slack. And now for the rusteezzzz Thats about all the major rust then, its just light surface rust on other parts of the car were I have sanded and grinded it back, and sprayed the primer to stop it from spreading.

So guys after endless struggles to get the old girl running smoothly, and bursting my heater hose on the way home from work, its safe to say she is running MINT!!!!. So with the second hand AISAN carby I bought of the bloke still having idling issues, I was using that to get me to work as I had no car, sadly on the way home one afternoon, my heater hose decides to split, pissing coolant all in my engine bay I was 5 minutes until I reach home, I risk driving it home, as I had no money for a tow truck, temp was fluctuating between 50% and 70% of the guage, I know I was loosing coolant, but still had enough. I finally got home opened my thermostat housing and started and got my garden hose with a garden fitting that allows me to shoot a strong straight jet stream of water 4 psi, stuck it into the housing and just ran the water for a good 10 minutes to cool the block, it was hot sprayed the engine and it was steaming, After I cooled the engine down filled the radiator up with the leftover Toyota Red Coolant I had and sat in my drive way until I could find a hose for my heater. Measured the old hose and had a ID of 18mm, check online hoses either came in 16mm or 19mm, I did not want to risk running a hose to small or too big, so after searching for 3 days I came accross a VL heater hose which had a ID of 18mm also "Heater Pipe Front VL RB30 6cyl - CH1964" that I cut that pretty much matched perfectly to the old heater hose. On the weekend I installed the new heater hose and topped up my coolant, and she was running again. Once I done the coolant I though I mise well check my idle speed and vacuum. Idle was running at 950rpm and vacuum was reading in the green. The carby started to give me headaches again, I drove it Thursday to work and it was not responsive at all, then I watched some videos, and found out I read my vacuum gauge wrong, instead of being in the green it had to be at highest vacuum which is usually 21 on the guage on the stock 4KC carby, mine was reading at 19.5 and running too rich. I didnt drive the car to work and caught transperth to get to work, on the Saturday. I rechecked everything I replaced every single old vacuum hoses with new hose, I could not get the car to idle below 800rpm so to fix this with the dash pot I removed the spring that gives tension for the screw this allowed me to get the idle down to 750rpm I believe something is not creating vacuum or the dash pot is buggered it does retract when I attach a hose and suck so maybe its not pulling vacuum but honestly I don't know so the best option was for me to take the spring and just wind it down lower to idle the rpms lower. By removing the spring it allowed me to get the oem spec idle of 750rpm. I then turned the idle speed screw in where it would just touch the backing. and from there. I plugged in my vacuum gauge. What I did was take out the bolt in the manifold and bought a barb fitting that fitted in to run the vacuum gauge off this point so that all my emissions lines and air box could still be attached which I think is the best possible way to get the best vacuum reading. Then while using a tachometer, and vacuum gauge, I turned my mixture screw all the way in clockwise, then turned 1 and a half turns outward so anti clockwise and that was my base, I started the car up and let the engine get to operating temp, then I slowly leaned the mixture out until I found the highest vacuum on the vacuum gauge, which is where I got it to 21 the highest vacuum I could achieve. Now with the carby tuned, time to clean the sucker. I really thought that I needed to rebuild the original carby and or even the second carby I bought as I do suspect my fuel tank is slightly rusted out, but for the time being I went ahead and used carby cleaner, with the engine warm I turned the car off and sprayed around the carby and inside the carby I opened up the throttle linkage to full throttle and gave a good spray and let it soak for a good 10 minutes to release any carbon build up in the manifold and around the butterflys. I turned the car on and let the engine warm up again, and this time while running using the throttle linkage gave it revs in bursts everytime I would burst the revs I would spray the carby cleaner to let the carby suck in the carby cleaner and hopefully clean the jets and anything else that may have been blocked inside the carby body. One last thing I decided to do is run a secondary fuel filter just before mechanical fuel pump so if any fine rust particles get picked up in the main fuel filter the secondary fuel filter will filter out those fine rust particles or dirt, I picked up a generic wesfil inline fuel filter form Autobarn for like $6. Photo of main line to Mechanical Fuel Pump. So after doing all these things to the car, safe to say the car is running MINT!!!!, now I just have to see if the car will cold start tomorrow on a 12 degree morning. I hope this long post helps someone in the future that may be having similar problems to me because man it can be a struggle but once you fix things its such a good feeling and feel proud of what you have achieved, the fuel tank will be dropped in the future as well as this time though I need to move my sedan out of the garage and find a place to store it. If you want to follow my KE70 Instagram Page, IG:knibusu and I do have a YouTube Channel - KNIBBZY

Vacuum Piping (8212-8410)4KC..MTM..4D..ARL • [12.1982-10.1984] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hey Guys I was able to find the exact diagram for my KE70 Wagon so if anyone else needs the vacuum diagram here it is my KE70 is a "1983 Toyota Corolla KE70 CS Wagon 5 Speed Manual 4KC Late Model"

Hello Guys Does anyone have a picture of the vacuum lines running to the right side of the carby on the side of the air/fuel mixture screw, I was playing around with my vacuum gauge tester on the weekend trying to get the highest vaucum, and I think I plugged the tri-connector lines the wrong way, if someone can take a quick snap for me of the vacuum lines I would appreciate it so much. I should of taking a photo beforehand that was my mistake.

So Guys somewhat of a successful weekend, I bought a ASIAN 7B Carby off a bloke, slapped it on the wagon, and fixed my idling issues, was able to idle the car at around 900rpm, also does not stall out at traffic lights or when I am driving it hard from 70km/h and come to sudden stop it keeps on purring. Thing is though I cannot adjust the idle screw to idle below 900rpm to get it to idle at 800rpm oem spec but still 900rpm is alot better then what I had before, the port for the idle stopper is already all the way maxed out. But also my choke cable is not currently connected as the end of it is too frayed to put back in, so gonna order a new choke cable not sure if that makes a difference to idle speed. But I think I need the choke to be able to use the high speed opening so the choke butterfly closes at high rpms therefore increasing my rpms as I gain speed. Turning the idle stopper anti-clockwise pushes the throttle linkage down more which then gives you a more lower rpm, then I think you use the idle screw to push the throttle linkage back to ideal rpm but in my case my idle stopper as you can see in the picture I have turned it in all the way in but is still idling 100rpm over oem specification. I may have also not connected my vaccum hoses in-correctly but I am pretty sure I have, Ill ask some Toyota oldheads at work and see what they say. Another issue that came up something is ticking when I hit the accelerator pedal to accelerate, I though it just might be the choke cable vibrating against linkage parts. I will try and bend the frayed end and see if I can make it straight enough to get it through choke linkage hole. Lastly, found either a major or minor problem, I was driving home before I replaced the carby above, my fuel guage was reading half a tank of fuel left in the tank, I filled the car up and had only driven 280 kilometers before this issue happened, and just randomly at 60km/h the car just dies on me, no lights came up on the dash it just dies and now I am rolling, I roll off to the side of the road and the vehicle just stopped. I turn the car off and try to crank the car and it wont crank over, there is still fuel in the fuel filter and I am pushing the throttle linkage up and down to see if any fuel is squirting into the carby and I get nothing, I am stranded on the side of the rode, I know the fuel pump is working and fuel lines are good filter is good everything is good because I double checked everything with my grandparent the weekend before. So I call my dad up to tell him to bring me 20Litres of fuel in a jerry can, because I suspect I have ran out of Fuel even though my fuel guage is reading that I still have half a tank worths. I fill the car up and sure enough the car starts and able to drive it home no problems and drive it the next day pick a few things up at supercheap auto and drive it to my grandparents house to swap over my carby. So now I need to figure out this issue that has occured, 280 kilometers of driving is super low for 40 litres of fuel, I did fill up before full tank and was able to drive it atleast 350 kilometers before it went to just abit above 1/4th of a tank that was with high idle of 1200rpm. No fuel light warning came up on the dash, so I suspect there was still half a tanks worth of fuel in there left. Just wondering does anyone have an idea of what could be the problem, possibly faulty fuel guage, maybe the in tank sending unit is worn. What I am going to have to do now is keep a jerry can of fuel in my car incase this problem happens again.

I let a mechanic test it at work, and he said its working fine, but I have a spare so might swap and see if it makes any difference, I also got my grandparent that has been a Toyota mechanic for +30 years, he grew up working on KE70s/AE71 and knows these cars like the back of his hand, he gave the engine a look over and done minor tune we, checked timing, contact point gap, fuel pump, fuel pump line section tested after mechanical pump tested end of hardline to carby, A okay fuel getting to carby hardline. He just double checked what I had done to make sure I had not missed anything, but when it came to carby he then tuned the carby, I tell ye these oldheads are a different breed, it was 7pm by this time, he was tuning it by sight and ear in the dark with me holding the torchlight, and got the carby running to the best of its abilities, he was doing the old trick where you rev the car with your palm over the carby and let go to check for vaccum i think thats what he was doing, and done that a couple a times, and then tried to adjust it where it was around 800rpm and got the fuel/air ratio correct, in the end it wouldnt idle at 800rpm and would shut off, he came to the conclusion that the carby needs a good clean, but I may just buy a rebuild kit and clean and rebuild the carburetor. We are going to do it this weekend and will also do an oil change and set the valve clearances as we have not done that yet. I have been driving it to work, driving to work is fine, as I can continuously drive the car so my foot is almost always on the accelerator, so no trouble there, but when driving it home I leave work at 4:00pm and there is alot of stopping and starting, so I have to drive it cautiously to keep the car alive, when I come to a stop I legit have to slow down 30 meters ahead to second gear and ride it until I am 10 meters to the stop and then downshift to 1st gear blip the throttle brake again blip the throttle and then just hold the car with clutch and accelerator if its flat if not I do the same thing but when I know I have to really come to a complete stop I use the handbrake aswell, its a bloody headache but this car is pretty much my only way of transport as its a 30min drive to work. Also I have had this weird issue keep happening, everytime I am 200 meters away from home the car starts to lose power and I have to baby the car home in 1st gear in my suburb, I am legit only going 5 kph but have to give 1st gear revs to drive it home, I think its either the carby, or the fuel hardline after a long drive gets too hot, and the fuel thats being sent is getting evoprated since the hardline rests against the rocket cover and maybe there is too much heat at the end of the trip, in the morning its fine though as its around 12 degrees but in the afternoon its a lot warmer, or its just a completely different issue. Sorry for these long paragraphs but I think its good to detail everything for people that are having similar issues. - Knibusu

Well guys after dickering around over the weekend I just finally got the fuel supply issue somewhat semi fixed, so I replaced the engine bay fuel lines with 1/4th fuel hose, about 6.3mm, I tried to crank engine but still wasnt filling fuel filter up with fuel, so I took the fuel pump off the engine block and pumped it manually with the fuel lines attached to mechanical pump and I was able to fill the fuel filter up with fuel. I cleaned the carburetor with carby cleaner. I then primed the carby and was able to get it running with my foot holding the accelerator, but when I would let go the car would stall, took me ages to play around with carby and accelerator cable, so my ke accelerator cable had a bit of slack in the line I had to adjust it to the point where the back nut is all the way at the end of the accelerator mount so there is no slack in the accelerator line,then I put the idle at about 1200rpm which I have to do to activate the secondary jet otherwise it wont Idle I do not really know as I do not have a tachometer, but whats happening is I believe my idle jet or the middle jet that supplies fuel to carby when idling is blocked and not supplying fuel, I remedied for the time being by raising the rpm as stated above which is allowing me to use the secondary accelerator jet, this is the only way I can get it running for the time being, but with that my fuel economy will be really bad as the secondary jet is squirting fuel all the time. When I try to set it to low idle it does not want to idle as it can not spray from the middle jet. I am either gonna have to rebuild the carby or see if it fixes itself overtime. But yeah as soon as I adjust the idle screw to a lower rpm, the car starts to bog down and struggles to run. I am also still having a slight issue where when at traffic lights coming to complete stop the car sometimes struggles to idle and die, maybe because the engine is too hot and is turning the fuel from mechanical fuel pump to carby into straight vapour as the hard line is superclose to the engine.