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Cheers @Banjo I like to document things so that if anyone in the near future wants to do the same modification, there is documented information for them to refer to and may make it a bit more easier for them.

Today finally got everything back together. Ported the intake manifold at work. Installed the headers and put everything back together Can not wait to get the exhaust system done and finally drive the car. Has been sitting in the garage for 8 months. When its all done gonna take it to a Car and Coffee and enjoy the cruise.

The stars are aligning, I forgot I had a spare intake manifold from a 4k engine that I had laying around Took it to work and put it in the robowash, and put big bertha on it to remove the EGR nut. Robowash and Wire Wizz came out not to bad no sure if i should vapour blast them and hit it with some hight temp chrome paint. Test fitted them to the engine and man both the stock intake manifold and extractors are the same flang thickness and it clamps tight and flush to the block, M10 washers are abit to small to cover both the intake and headers, so I will pick up some M12 and see if that helps, but even with just the nut they still clamp nice and tight. Just need to hit the intake manifold with the carbide to port out the intake manifold for more airflow, not sure if it really makes a difference but more air for a 2 inch exhaust system let the 4k breathe babyyyy. Finally get it all back together ready to tow to my exhaust guy to put a 2 inch exhaust system on the KE70 Wagon.

Yep I think that is the go, even these washers in the picture normal m10 washer if i grind the side down keeping the middle circle it will still fit on the stud and fill the gap so i think I'm gonna grind down some washers and do the superglue method, thankyou for everyones input and help.

UPDATE: Wildcat 116 4K Extractors Came today, just installed them, and yeah ive done myself a mischief, this is a learning lesson, always buy once, poor man pays twice, so yeah the Wilcat Extractors fit like a glove to the block and had no gaps, even without the two bolts tightened all the way the two extractors bolts that hold the extractos no gaps between the engine face and the extractors. My only problem now is, I chewed to much metal off from the intake manifold, I guess those ebay stainless ones were alot thinner, my options are I machine the Wildcat Flange down to match the intake manifold, or I cut some washers in half, like halfmoon washers and superglue them to the intake manifold and bolt them up, or just source another intake manifold and do it properly, which I think from learning from this is always try to do it properly if you can first. I will see if I can get another intake manifold if not I will go the half moon washer route. Lesson learnt always buy reputable parts.

I like the stance of that yeah tyres are abit tall, but still good fitment yeah bummer the 13 inch willwood brake setup dorsnt fit the stock rims, in gonna run 14's asswell, I went to Lovells suspension here at my lical in Western Australia to enquire about front lowering springs, unfortunately there sport low which I believe is 30mm drop not available, but they had there super low 25-60mm, I thought I would experiment there is a video on youtube of Vinnie Rola using the super lows on his stock ke70 struts so I thought why not. For the shock absorber inserts I am going to swap up the liquid filled oem ones with KYB EXCEL-G CARTDRUDGE - 363023 which apparently is just a direct oem solution replacement. As for the rear leafs I am gonna get them reset and install rear coilivers from Techo Toy Tuning "T3 Rear Coilivers" the KYB AGX, adjustable damper style ones. If the fronts are to low and don't work well then I will get the king springs sport low version. But for now I will see how the Lovell spring and KYB EXCEL-G Front setup go. As for my wheels I came across BCI wheels they do a 4-114.3 14x6 +12 they did have a 14x7 +9 but unfortunately removed them from there catalogue so the 14x6 will have to suffice.

Cheers @altezzaclub so the Front KFRL-16 it is, yeah i think with a 30mm drop it wont be to bad, yeah ill have a look into the original oem style shock just to freshen up the front suspension, I bought the KE70 BC Gold coilovers with spare KE70 spindles sadly I sold them because I didnt think I was gonna lower it anytime soon, here I am wanting to lower my Wagon dumb of me, In the future I will convert to AE86 front Suspension and willwood brakes but for now just want a slightly lowered stance to fill in the guards abit.

Here to add some information and get some help I have a March 1983 Toyota Corolla KE70 Wagon, early model based of the front hubs and I measured to strut housing and the outside diameter came around to 45mm, and the bottom strut spring perch measured 140mm outside diameter so I am just wondering what lowering spring can I use for this strut assembly and and reccomendations on the shock absorber insert to use.

Hey Guys Need some help again, I'm finally getting my exhaust done, and having dramas with the extractors I have taken photos to clarify some stuff I have mentioned previously and may be able to help point me in the right direction. So I have gone to M10x1.25 exhaust manifold studs, and as you can see the middle right side the header piping hits the nut, easy enough fix shave down the side until it threads all the way or gind a sized nut with a skinny width profile. Now I have installed the Permaseal Manifold Gasket - EM30 I am having a problem with clamping, the 4k intake manifold is mint seals up nicely and there is no gaps, but as for the headers the middle of the headers outlet flange there is a gap, I'm not talking about the side middle gaps for the intake manifold I'm talking about the actually mid headers flange has a gap. I used my feeler guage and 0.05mm feeler guage goes straight down the left side until it hits the bottom of the pipe so that means only the top of the middle left header has a gap, the right middle is okay. So my only conclusion is these are poorly welded and or warped, and you can also see in the previous comment I made with the headers the middle outlet pipes are alot more spread out compared to the wildcat and or hurricane headers. Or another option is which I don't think is the proper or best way to do it as I don't want to keep having to deal with thee problem is use the gasket that came with it to fill the gap. Picture of my port job on my Intake Manifold with Die Grinder and Carbide Bit I think I am just going to bite the bullet and get the hurricane headers I like the blue and I know alot of people have ran them on their 4k ke70s, where as a ebay headers that has been manafactuared who knows where may not be the best. Any thoughts or Ideas of what I should do would be greatly appreciated.

Oh I see what you mean so the black male pin plug goes into one of the stock harness headlight plugs the other one unused, then the yellow pin plugs go direct into the headlight bulb and the black wire connected to yellow plugs is ground and the red wire is battery positive.

$30 bucks can not go wrong I will try it out thankyou

Hello I just changed my headlights over from sealed unit to semi sealed, and upon reading this I am guessing you use a relay to to help with brightness and I am wanting to install relays but the link is no longer working, does anyone have a writeup on how to install relays for the headlights.

Yeah every single pump I got came with the spacer and two gaskets. I keep the spacer and gaskets as spares now 😆, but yeah I don't know, I'm gonna try the electric fuel pump setup and see how I go. Also I had a look at my ignition switch and tested each terminal with a multimeter to test for 12V source I am a bit of a visual learner so looking at the wiring diagram I understand it a little bit but actually seeing the circuit and testing gave me a better understanding Ill let you guys now how I go with the installation and keep you posted. 🤙. I also have a immobiliser in my and the previous owner ran it off ST2 seeing that and testing voltage when immobiliser is on and off was interesting to.

At a cost perspective yeah it might be better to just run a mechanical fuel pump, but ive gone through three mechanical fuel pumps within the year, always the same thing the diaphragm giving out and puncturing and fuel pump leaking. Any they are not cheap either Both goss and fuelmiser I have used and they have both failed. So the thought of running the electric fuel pump tempted me. Yes you might spend a little bit to set it up but the advantages are there. This is the electric fuel pump I'm going with its a aeroflow electric fuel pump adjustable from 4.5 to 7 psi

So the oil pressure switch is basically acting as a fuel cut solenoid, everything is still stock, I am still using the stock KE70 oil pressure sensor, the stock oil pressure sensor of the KE70 is 0.4 bar The ke70 oil pressure switch is rated almost the same oil pressure as the Holley oil pressure safety switch, so there is no way for the holley oil pressure safety switch to cut off the car while driving, because its acting on the stock KE70 oil pressure sensor. The holley switch is not shutting off the car loses oil pressure its shutting off the fuel pump, so as soon as the car dies the fuel pump dies at the same time. The orange arrow arrow the thing that its pointing to is the Datsun 240Z stock oil pressure sensor. the T piece is used for both stock oil pressure sensor and holley oil safety switch to get pressure, its just a way to join the two pressure switches. So as for the KE70 where the orange arrow is pointing the stock KE70 oil pressure sensor will go. Its not a full blown EFI system, the stock mechanical pump runs 4 - 7 psi, I am essentially removing and blocking it off, and running the Electric Fuel Pump then running the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible on the chassis rail, it will pump the fuel from the tank then use a bypass fuel pressure regulator to regulate the fuel set at 4.5 psi, weber usually says 3 psi, but lowest pressure regulator is 4.5 psi as affordable price. then goes to the carby. Try not to think of the Holley pressure safety switch as a oil pressure switch, its like a hobbs switch, if it sensors the correct stock ke70 oil pressure from the car it will turn the fuel pump on when car is running and when the ke70 oil pressure sensor senses 5 or below psi the fuel pump will shut off, in no way can it turn my car off because the stock ke70 oil pressure sensor is plugged into the t piece as long as the ke70 oil pressure sensor senses above 5 psi the fuel pump will be on, if the car hits 5 or drops below 5 psi both the car will bog out and stall, the fuel pump will turn off because it has lossed oil pressure, the holley pressure safety switch can't turn the car off from loss of oil pressure it only can shut off the fuel pump from loss of oil pressure. Its kind of a weird thing that not many people do because its easier just to have the pump run when the car is ignition on 12v but if you were to stall your car and the ignition is still in on position the fuel pump will still be pumping fuel and running, my ke70 is manual, so example if you are driving the ke70 and you hit a lightpost and pass out, the car will still be ignition on pumping fuel because you havent switch from ignition on to lock, but if you hook up the holley pressure safety switch if you hit the lightpost and pass out you would hopefully take your foot off the clutch drops to 5 psi oil pressure stalls out the engine and the fuel pump will cut off. Even more simpler the cluster stock oil pressure light as long as that is not on the fuel pump will be pumping when you turn off the car or lose oil pressure and the oil light comes on the fuel pump will be off.

So after some further investigation I have found what I am looking for two ways to do it with or without relay and this diagram shows with a relay and what wires go to the relay. So basically the below diagram is the completed wiring and setup BO, will be the best 12 volt source for me and should work like I want it, I will probably set it up with a relay probably the safest option a bit more wiring involved but thats okay I will let you know how the setup goes.

Sorry I should of stated the purpose, I am getting rid of the mechanical fuel pump and wanting to install the electric fuel pump, so my Idea on the oil pressure safety switch is, when the car is cranking gets 5 psi oil pressure the O.P.S.S will sense oil pressure and turn the fuel pump on, then when the car starts it will run off 12 volts on running. The only reason I am using the O.P.S.S in case my car dies such as stall the car while driving, lose oil pressure, crash worse case scenario, the fuel pump is not constantly on and pumping fuel. Yes I know you can do it with the relay setup and I was considering that https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/safe-and-efficient-electric-fuel-pump-wiring But the O.P.S.S is different PSI this switch operates at 7 PSI, three terminals S, I, P The holley switch operates at 5 PSI, three terminals N(normally closed), NO(normally open), C And the stock KE70 operates at 0.4 bar, so the holley is better in that way, I guess really all that means is the car will shut off quicker if it senses low oil pressure if you use the S,I, P switch. and with the three different terminals I think you have a different wiring setup. Also Banjo I think you are also correct, I forgot to mention this is also another way Holley says you can wire the Holley Oil Pressure Safety Switch. They just didnt give specifics on the relay so I opted for the easy route the one without the relay. Yeah the only reason why I am wanting to hook it up like this is just safety I could just get the fuel pump, and positive from pump to ignition on running source with inline fuse, and earth from fuel pump to body chassis and be done with it but that would mean as soon as I get 12V the pump is pumping so, like if my car is in on position but not running the pump would be pumping fuel still, the idea of the Oil Pressure Safety Switch is just safety and peace of mind for me, knowing that the fuel pump will be only on when the car is cranking and car running engine running.

Yeah its carby, weber 32/36, its just one of those 12v 4 - 7psi fuel pumps I just want to know which ignition switch wire will have constant 12V when the car is on running, so I assume it would BO as that is also connected to dizzy I believe and this will supply my 12V to run the fuel pump when car is on running, and if ever the oil pressure safety switch sensors pressure below 5psi it will shut the fuel pump off.

Hey guys I am planning on installing a 12V electric fuel pump with a oil pressure safety switch, reason is for safety, want the fuel pump to cut out if stalls, loses oil pressure, get into acident etc, the gist of it is, when the oil switch sensors pressure the fuel pump will activate on cranking, then when the cars starts on running the fuel pump will run of the ignition on running, I was just trying to confirm what would be the best place to wire from normally open to ignition switch, is ig2 the power to the distrubutor BO and the running state Holleys Diagram What I am trying to figure out Also steps 6 - 9 is from Holley wiring installation. Any help is appreciated This is a photo of the pressure sensor installed on a datsun 240z

Honestly had a really hard time trying to get the throttle linkage setup there is not a lot of information on how people run the linkages on a stock 4K engine with Weber 32/36 but after some mucking around and getting a proper throttle linkage, it is running smoothly.

Got the car idling with the Weber 32/36 it sounds TOUGH!! few low end revs of the throttle, with just the 4-1 extractors, next step fabricating a 2 inch system exhaust with 1.5 inch blast pipes at the end this is gonna be fun.

Finally was able to mock up my Weber After installing Weber and trying to use the universal linkage was not the best for the barrel type accelerator cable so had to call up Recarb and get there throttle linkage they do for the 4K engine safe to say its working, cranked the car for a second heard how loud the headers alone were chose not to start and idle the car as it was late so will try this afternoon.

Yeah cool, good to know the ones I purchased are the same, yeah ended up buying the permaseal manifold gasket em30 one piece gasket, I'm waiting for my throttle wheel for my weber 32/36 but been a week hopefully it arrives this weekend, but I might just take my headers off and manifold and do a bench test to see if they sit flat together or needs more modification, as I did use a file to shave abit of the intake manifold to finally squeeze it passed the headers and sit on the block but the only problem was the middle of the headers wasnt sitting flush ill remove from the engine and have to see thanks for the advice.

Yeah thanks for that I'm not sure if its the brand of extractors I purchased is causing it, or its just the thickness of exhaust flange is different to manifold, I wanted the stainless steel ones so I purchased those, but maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment.

Old post but question about headers, those 4-1 headers do they need a slight shave to make them work with the 4KC manifold, I used a spare manifold I had laying around one without the egr, when I went to mock up the headers theres is a slight gap in the middle of the headers when it sits against the engine and I also had to shave a bit of the manifold to squeeze the headers in but I think I need to shave the header surface to make it fit better.