Jentriken

Yea the block on that motor was also fucked, turned out there was a rag in the sump that seemed to be blocking the oil from circulating properly which may have caused all the crust?. That’s why I ended up using my og bottom end

Ok so update if anyone is interested, I ended up cleaning the head myself which came up ok eventually, except I had to use the rocker assembly from my old head as the ones from this head had blocked oil passages. I got the head skimmed and checked the valves sealed. Pulling my old head off was positively surprising, the cylinder walls looked great, there was no noticeable piston slap and once I cleaned off the old gasket material, the block surface seemed straight enough. Torquing the head down went smoothly, and after cleaning everything and putting it all back together it started right up. 👍cheers to all who helped along the way

So I’ve pulled the head off very crusty but hopefully will clean up ok. I’m thinking after looking at the coolant passages in the block, that I’ll probably use the bottom end that’s already in the car (as long as the valve that stuck didn’t smack the piston) as the condition can’t be any better than my original motor. Thoughts on what to use to get all the crud out of the head once i get the valves out? How aggressive can I clean it without risking damage to the head? Also what would u recommend to remove the gasket material without scoring up the mating surface ?

I’m gonna wait to find until I get a workshop manual, cos I haven’t stripped a motor past the long block before. But once I pull the head off what would u recommend to clean the crud out?

Hey guys so I recently grabbed this 4kc hicam for cheap. It’s to go in my kesev. I didn’t really look super closely at it as it was still in the car when I bought it. Figured it ran well and didn’t smoke so should be fine for my purposes (simple 4K daily) but after starting to strip down for a regasket I’ve noticed that the head is HELLA crusty and full of flakes of what I assume is old oil. So my question is, is this motor fucked? Like surely all the oil passages are blocked af and the oil pump is toast? Should I get rid of it and find another 4K or regasket it and chuck it in? Also can anyone identify tdc on the crank pulley? There’s like 3 marks and idk which one it would be.

Hi all, I’m hoping someone on here can help me try and get my ke70 driving properly it’s a stock 4kc with 32/36 Weber and extractors running a returnless mechanical fuel pump. I’ve finally got it running and it seems to hold idle well but it has crazy rev hang. As well as this it is lurching and spluttering under load when around 2-3.5k rpms. I know basically nothing about carbys, coming from fuel injection. I know carbys have multiple circuits for idle, partial throttle and full right? In which case would it be the partial throttle that needs adjustment as it’s smooth at higher revs?

Nvm I figured that out it seems like to flasher is what’s contributing the indicators/hazarts

Sorry it’s under the dash at the fuse panel behind the speaker cover thing

I tried connecting those two wires going to the flasher thing and nothing its actually 3 wires at a plug but not sure what it’s meant to do but one of the wires is 12v ignition and another is ground. Don’t reckon it’s connected to the gauges afterall I did find these two unplugged wires too tho

I can’t see any wires around either the brake master or the handbrake so not sure what to test but I did just remember the cut section of harness in the engine bay, do some of these need to be grounded to run the dash?

Ok so I’ve pulled the cluster and it seems to have continuity across the parts it should and it looks fine. I did find that the fuel gauge wire was cut and spliced into an 12v ON wire on the ignition. I’m assuming this was to send power to the electric fuel pump he had back there. I tried jumping the wire back to its original connection but still no gauge on the dash. Also it looks like there’s some aftermarket relay for something but I’m not sure what for, may be related?

Yea ok, so I just checked, the license plate light and fuel level sender have power at the rear of the car and the gauge fuse is 10a and intact, I'm gonna start pulling apart the dash again, hope I find something

Hi, I have an ‘82 ke70 and most of the cluster doesn’t work and idk why, the Speedo works( obviously cos that’s mechanical) but the clock, fuel gauge and the fuel light don't. The temp also doesn’t work but that doesn’t bother me as I have an aftermarket water temp. not sure if other lights work except the indicators and high beam lights work?. I’ve tried 3 different fuel level senders, checked the plugs at the back of the dash, checked fuses and nothing has changed. Where do I go from here? Does anyone have a decent diagram or even list of all the main wires behind the dash?

Yea sorry not bracket but yea mounted to the block, and yea it does have the spacer thingy as well as some thin gaskets

Not Bosch I remembered wrong, it’s a Goss # G305A equivalent, that bolts into the factory fuel pump bracket on the block.it doesn’t seem to rattle but it wouldn’t when the car is off as it’s mechanical. It has the stock feed line going from the feed on the tank but the return and breather lines are removed, I can get the car to run for a few seconds on break clean and it ran well before I started the tank swap a month or so ago. Should I just go find a different tank and pick up and try that?