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Yeah every single pump I got came with the spacer and two gaskets. I keep the spacer and gaskets as spares now 😆, but yeah I don't know, I'm gonna try the electric fuel pump setup and see how I go. Also I had a look at my ignition switch and tested each terminal with a multimeter to test for 12V source I am a bit of a visual learner so looking at the wiring diagram I understand it a little bit but actually seeing the circuit and testing gave me a better understanding Ill let you guys now how I go with the installation and keep you posted. 🤙. I also have a immobiliser in my and the previous owner ran it off ST2 seeing that and testing voltage when immobiliser is on and off was interesting to.

At a cost perspective yeah it might be better to just run a mechanical fuel pump, but ive gone through three mechanical fuel pumps within the year, always the same thing the diaphragm giving out and puncturing and fuel pump leaking. Any they are not cheap either Both goss and fuelmiser I have used and they have both failed. So the thought of running the electric fuel pump tempted me. Yes you might spend a little bit to set it up but the advantages are there. This is the electric fuel pump I'm going with its a aeroflow electric fuel pump adjustable from 4.5 to 7 psi

So the oil pressure switch is basically acting as a fuel cut solenoid, everything is still stock, I am still using the stock KE70 oil pressure sensor, the stock oil pressure sensor of the KE70 is 0.4 bar The ke70 oil pressure switch is rated almost the same oil pressure as the Holley oil pressure safety switch, so there is no way for the holley oil pressure safety switch to cut off the car while driving, because its acting on the stock KE70 oil pressure sensor. The holley switch is not shutting off the car loses oil pressure its shutting off the fuel pump, so as soon as the car dies the fuel pump dies at the same time. The orange arrow arrow the thing that its pointing to is the Datsun 240Z stock oil pressure sensor. the T piece is used for both stock oil pressure sensor and holley oil safety switch to get pressure, its just a way to join the two pressure switches. So as for the KE70 where the orange arrow is pointing the stock KE70 oil pressure sensor will go. Its not a full blown EFI system, the stock mechanical pump runs 4 - 7 psi, I am essentially removing and blocking it off, and running the Electric Fuel Pump then running the pump as close to the fuel tank as possible on the chassis rail, it will pump the fuel from the tank then use a bypass fuel pressure regulator to regulate the fuel set at 4.5 psi, weber usually says 3 psi, but lowest pressure regulator is 4.5 psi as affordable price. then goes to the carby. Try not to think of the Holley pressure safety switch as a oil pressure switch, its like a hobbs switch, if it sensors the correct stock ke70 oil pressure from the car it will turn the fuel pump on when car is running and when the ke70 oil pressure sensor senses 5 or below psi the fuel pump will shut off, in no way can it turn my car off because the stock ke70 oil pressure sensor is plugged into the t piece as long as the ke70 oil pressure sensor senses above 5 psi the fuel pump will be on, if the car hits 5 or drops below 5 psi both the car will bog out and stall, the fuel pump will turn off because it has lossed oil pressure, the holley pressure safety switch can't turn the car off from loss of oil pressure it only can shut off the fuel pump from loss of oil pressure. Its kind of a weird thing that not many people do because its easier just to have the pump run when the car is ignition on 12v but if you were to stall your car and the ignition is still in on position the fuel pump will still be pumping fuel and running, my ke70 is manual, so example if you are driving the ke70 and you hit a lightpost and pass out, the car will still be ignition on pumping fuel because you havent switch from ignition on to lock, but if you hook up the holley pressure safety switch if you hit the lightpost and pass out you would hopefully take your foot off the clutch drops to 5 psi oil pressure stalls out the engine and the fuel pump will cut off. Even more simpler the cluster stock oil pressure light as long as that is not on the fuel pump will be pumping when you turn off the car or lose oil pressure and the oil light comes on the fuel pump will be off.

So after some further investigation I have found what I am looking for two ways to do it with or without relay and this diagram shows with a relay and what wires go to the relay. So basically the below diagram is the completed wiring and setup BO, will be the best 12 volt source for me and should work like I want it, I will probably set it up with a relay probably the safest option a bit more wiring involved but thats okay I will let you know how the setup goes.

Sorry I should of stated the purpose, I am getting rid of the mechanical fuel pump and wanting to install the electric fuel pump, so my Idea on the oil pressure safety switch is, when the car is cranking gets 5 psi oil pressure the O.P.S.S will sense oil pressure and turn the fuel pump on, then when the car starts it will run off 12 volts on running. The only reason I am using the O.P.S.S in case my car dies such as stall the car while driving, lose oil pressure, crash worse case scenario, the fuel pump is not constantly on and pumping fuel. Yes I know you can do it with the relay setup and I was considering that https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/safe-and-efficient-electric-fuel-pump-wiring But the O.P.S.S is different PSI this switch operates at 7 PSI, three terminals S, I, P The holley switch operates at 5 PSI, three terminals N(normally closed), NO(normally open), C And the stock KE70 operates at 0.4 bar, so the holley is better in that way, I guess really all that means is the car will shut off quicker if it senses low oil pressure if you use the S,I, P switch. and with the three different terminals I think you have a different wiring setup. Also Banjo I think you are also correct, I forgot to mention this is also another way Holley says you can wire the Holley Oil Pressure Safety Switch. They just didnt give specifics on the relay so I opted for the easy route the one without the relay. Yeah the only reason why I am wanting to hook it up like this is just safety I could just get the fuel pump, and positive from pump to ignition on running source with inline fuse, and earth from fuel pump to body chassis and be done with it but that would mean as soon as I get 12V the pump is pumping so, like if my car is in on position but not running the pump would be pumping fuel still, the idea of the Oil Pressure Safety Switch is just safety and peace of mind for me, knowing that the fuel pump will be only on when the car is cranking and car running engine running.

Yeah its carby, weber 32/36, its just one of those 12v 4 - 7psi fuel pumps I just want to know which ignition switch wire will have constant 12V when the car is on running, so I assume it would BO as that is also connected to dizzy I believe and this will supply my 12V to run the fuel pump when car is on running, and if ever the oil pressure safety switch sensors pressure below 5psi it will shut the fuel pump off.

Hey guys I am planning on installing a 12V electric fuel pump with a oil pressure safety switch, reason is for safety, want the fuel pump to cut out if stalls, loses oil pressure, get into acident etc, the gist of it is, when the oil switch sensors pressure the fuel pump will activate on cranking, then when the cars starts on running the fuel pump will run of the ignition on running, I was just trying to confirm what would be the best place to wire from normally open to ignition switch, is ig2 the power to the distrubutor BO and the running state Holleys Diagram What I am trying to figure out Also steps 6 - 9 is from Holley wiring installation. Any help is appreciated This is a photo of the pressure sensor installed on a datsun 240z

Honestly had a really hard time trying to get the throttle linkage setup there is not a lot of information on how people run the linkages on a stock 4K engine with Weber 32/36 but after some mucking around and getting a proper throttle linkage, it is running smoothly.

Got the car idling with the Weber 32/36 it sounds TOUGH!! few low end revs of the throttle, with just the 4-1 extractors, next step fabricating a 2 inch system exhaust with 1.5 inch blast pipes at the end this is gonna be fun.

Finally was able to mock up my Weber After installing Weber and trying to use the universal linkage was not the best for the barrel type accelerator cable so had to call up Recarb and get there throttle linkage they do for the 4K engine safe to say its working, cranked the car for a second heard how loud the headers alone were chose not to start and idle the car as it was late so will try this afternoon.

Yeah cool, good to know the ones I purchased are the same, yeah ended up buying the permaseal manifold gasket em30 one piece gasket, I'm waiting for my throttle wheel for my weber 32/36 but been a week hopefully it arrives this weekend, but I might just take my headers off and manifold and do a bench test to see if they sit flat together or needs more modification, as I did use a file to shave abit of the intake manifold to finally squeeze it passed the headers and sit on the block but the only problem was the middle of the headers wasnt sitting flush ill remove from the engine and have to see thanks for the advice.

Yeah thanks for that I'm not sure if its the brand of extractors I purchased is causing it, or its just the thickness of exhaust flange is different to manifold, I wanted the stainless steel ones so I purchased those, but maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment.

Old post but question about headers, those 4-1 headers do they need a slight shave to make them work with the 4KC manifold, I used a spare manifold I had laying around one without the egr, when I went to mock up the headers theres is a slight gap in the middle of the headers when it sits against the engine and I also had to shave a bit of the manifold to squeeze the headers in but I think I need to shave the header surface to make it fit better.

Yeah thanks guys it was the circlip and will be putting a hose clamp on for extra security, I was able to get a circlip from Toyota Parts I bought a spare just in case hehe, also wondering anyone know where to get a clutch cable from because mine is pretty stretched, I put the circlip on the second notch, but cable looks like its seen better days

Hey Guys this just happened to me driving home from work went to shift from 2nd to 3rd and heard a noise went to feel the clutch and lost tension in the pedal, everything else is fine can still shift gears good, no grinding or slippage in the gearbox, its just that my clutch pedal no longer has tension at the top and it is very loose, and the bite point is now super low like 4cm off the floor. Has my circlip fallen off is that what holds the gromet into the firewall I have videos to show you what I mean any help would be appreciated and the part number or were to get circlip would be helpful.