Banjo

I've built up another interface board, so I can still investigate this optical dizzy system on the bench, with the new Speeduino & a second optical dizzy I've built, with a 24-1 punched stainless steel disk. I ran into a few issues, as the pulses coming out of the Mitsubishi optical module, I fitted inside a K Series dizzy body, had me scratching my head. Mitsubishi Optical Distributor Module: There are a number of issues that I have come across, with the above modules. This is largely due to the fact; that little specific & detailed information is available; as these modules are sold as replacement parts, & expected to be simply replaced, & the engine wiring harness, just plugged back in. For those of us, that are experimenting with them; or using them in other ways, to process their trigger & CAS output signals, it is not entirely clear, even with A.I. querying. 1. Are the modules powered by a +12 volt or + 5 volt DC supply ? 2. What is the arrangement of the four (4) connections to the module ? 3. Are output pulses, in a switched +12 volt or +5 volt format; producing positive going pulses ? 4. Are the output pulses simply a “open collector” output where the output goes to ground, for the duration of the negative pulse, & requires external fitting of a suitable load resistor, to either, a +12V or a, +5V DC supply ? 5. Is the pulse produced, when I.R. (Infra Red) light passes through the punched disk, or when it is blocked ? 6. Is there any internal logic, that prevents the leading or trailing edges of the CAS & trigger pulses, to coincide ? ECU microprocessors that are fed these pulses; usually are only interested in the leading & trailing edge of these pulses. This is because they are usually connected to “interrupter inputs”, on the microprocessor. This technique is designed to remove the reading of these pulses from the constant running code. The code to read the interrupter input, is not in the program, running continually. When an input changes state (either hi to lo, or lo to high), on one of these “interrupter inputs”; then the running code stops & jumps to the programming code that handles this input. The program then resumes to the constantly running cyclic code, after it has finished reading & acknowledging the pulse has arrived. 1. My research has indicated that most, if not all optical modules; are +12 volt DC powered. 2. The second consideration is to find out what the four (4) connections are, as to get it wrong, when wiring it up; could possibly result in the module becoming inoperative, (defective, U/S). I still do not know, if all optical distributor module manufacturers, all use the same arrangement ? However, the one I am using, (model 93740928) suitable for a Mitsubishi engine is connected as follows. Holding the module, with the IR reader head facing vertically, & facing the 4 pin connection moulded plug ; from left to right the four (4) pins are as follows . . . . . Pin 1: +12 volts DC. Pin 2: 0 volts/Ground Pin 3: Trigger pulse output. Pin 4: CAS pulse output. 3. It appears, that few if any modules actually produce a positive (+) going output pulse, for either the trigger or CAS pulse. 4. This is easily checked, by either connecting a multimeter, or a LED test probe, to the output, & turning the dizzy slowly by hand. If there is no positive voltage output, it is more than likely that the output is a “open collector” format, where the output pin is tied to ground, for the duration of the pulse. If this is the case, the other end of an external “load” resistor can be connected to either +12v or +5V, from each dizzy optical output. 5. The next question was . . . . Is the pulse produced, when I.R. light passes through the punched disk, or when it is blocked ? One would expect that when the I.R. passes through the disk’s punched hole, that a pulse would be produced. However, this is apparently not the case. It is impossible to look into the narrow slot on the I.R. header reader, & see whether the light beam is blocked or open. The light beam is infra red, so cannot be seen visually. The only way, is to remove the punched disk completely, then slide a piece of thin “opaque material” into the slot, to block the light, whilst monitoring the output. The answer; is in the common name for these devices, where the word; “interrupter” is used. ie: when the light beam is “interrupted”, the pulse is created / provided. This is the opposite to what maybe expected; that a pulse is provided, when the I.R. light passes through slot in the thin stainless steel rotating disk. Not the case ! One could assume, that the single CAS pulse & triggers pulses, are both produced exactly the same way. If You don’t want to remove disk, then monitor the CAS pulse output & rotate the dizzy slowly, until the output pulse appears. As there is only one CAS pulse, per 360 degrees of dizzy rotation, it is easy to see the result. You can pretty safely assume that both CAS & trigger pulses are both “light interrupted” outputs. Not the case ! As there being only one CAS pulse per revolution, of the dizzy; that would result be a very long pulse. The CAS pulse output, therefore has to be inverted, in post processing, to produce the C.A.S. & trigger pulses, in the exact same format (negative going). As far as I know, all commercial ECU, use & expect negative going trigger & C.A.S. pulses. 6. The stainless steel punched disk I am using with this optical reader, (24-1) is purposely punched; such that the leading & lagging edges of the slot for a single C.A.S. pulse, & the trigger pulses, do not coincide. (see photo of punched disk below) This is to prevent two interrupt commands being generated to the micro-processor, at the very same time. Micro processors, are very fast devices; but they are basically confined to carrying out one instruction/action at a time. This is much harder to achieve, when there are 360 punched slots around the outer edge of the punched disk; as on my Nissan optical dizzy module. The interface circuit I've built between the dizzy optical module & the Trigger & CAS board, also inputs a third pulse generated by a Hall Effect sensor, mounted adjacent to the crank pulley. This interface board creates a single C.A.S pulse by logically "Anding" the CAS pulse generated by the disk above ; & the single crank pulse per crankshaft revolution. Here are a few of the oscilloscope screen grabs of the pulses generated by the interface board, as fed into the Speeduino RPM2 & RPM1 inputs. The vertical divisions on the oscilloscope screen are 2 volts; so the negative pulses depicted are 5 volts in amplitude. The top trace is the single CAS pulse generated by the dizzy, & synchronised with the stable, wider pulse, derived by the crankshaft (not depicted). The bottom trace; is of the negative going pulses, generated by the 24 slots around the disk. Note that the "transition" of these two streams of pulses; do not occur at the same time. This can be clearly seen in the following screen grab. Here is the little interface circuit, I've built to process the Mitsubishi optical module outputs. Working with CAS & trigger pulses, can always be fraught with noise issues, in the automotive environment under the bonnet of a car. Careful use of shielded cables to transmit CAS & trigger pulses between the dizzy & interface board; & interface board & ECU, should always be installed; grounded at one end only. In addition, I have incorporated in this interface board; optical IR couplers, at both input & output of this circuit. In addition the switching functions in both the 4093 CMOS quad Nand gate, & the MOC5007 opto-coupler, both incorporate hysteresis switching, which is a great way of reducing noise in the system. Hysteresis, simply is two levels of switching, with a dead band in between the two switching points. In other words, a 0-5V dc signal switching from zero to 5V, will not switch, until the voltage reads say 4.0 volts. Conversely, a 0-5V dc signal switching /transitioning from 5V to zero; will not switch, until the voltage decreases to say 1.0 volt. For input voltages in between 1 & 4 volts, nothing switches. This is the hysteresis band, which is very useful in reducing noise in inherently noisy control systems. Cheers Banjo

My last post above, was the theory of how You can stabilise the CAS pulse, that is produced by the camshaft driven dizzy, but now it was time to turn the theory into practice. I built an interface "circuit board", that slotted between the dizzy Nissan optical distributor module & the Speeduino ECU. The interface board accepted 360 pulses per dizzy rotation, as well as the single CAS pulse from the dizzy. In addition, there was a single "crankshaft generated" pulse to line up with the CAS pulse from the dizzy, every second revolution of the crankshaft. There are twelve teeth on the cog on the bottom of K Series distributor; so you choose one, where the two pulses basically will align; & the dizzy is located, so the 4 way electrical plug & socket faces away from the engine, so it is accessible. I positioned the crankshaft at an angle where it's pulse occurs, at a point before top dead centre, greater than the "very maximum advance", You are ever going to use. Anywhere between 60-110 deg BTDC No: 1 will suffice. N.B. A lot of ECUs actually note this point as being ATDC. So 60-110 deg BTDC becomes 250-300 deg ATDC. Then all you have to do is rotate the dizzy by hand, until both pulses align. I fitted a couple of LEDs on the interface board I built, so this was easily accomplished. As per the diagram below, in my previous post, it is important, that the pulse created by the CAS in the dizzy, is wider than the pulse generated by the crankshaft. The crankshaft pulse cannot move around. The dizzy CAS pulse can move around, dependent on wear & slop in the camshaft sprocket & chain; as well as the helical gear between the bottom of the dizzy & camshaft. This exercise was to measure the angles of overlap, to ensure the CAS pulse was extremely stable. This needs to be checked with a degree wheel on the crankshaft pulley; or the flywheel, (which is exposed on my engine test bed arrangement). I was a bit concerned as the 54mm dia. slotted stainless steel disk in the Nissan module is extremely thin (0.5mm) & I did not think I would be capable of filing out a tiny hole to make it wider, (if it was necessary) without destroying a disk; whose replacement cost can be around $ 100 ! As it turned out, that was not necessary. The single pulse width from the crankshaft was 4-5 deg of crankshaft duration. The single pulse from the dizzy CAS pulse was 15-16 degrees of crankshaft duration. I then carefully rotated the dizzy, until the crankshaft 5 deg pulse occurred right in the middle of the 15-16 degree duration of the of the dizzy CAS pulse. That means that the CAS pulse generated by the dizzy, can move around + & - about 5 degrees, without having any control over the stability of the resultant pulse, when these two pulses are "logically", AND'd together. So next step will be to fire the engine up, & put the dual channel oscilloscope on both pulses & the resultant "AND'd" pulse, & see whether the theory all plays out in practice. Each of the 360 & single CAS pulse from the dizzy, are clean & square, as demonstrated in the picture above, on the oscilloscope. Those vertical axis squares on the screen are 2 volts each; so the pulses are exactly 5V in amplitude. The development of something like this, is not something that can easily be accomplished on a running engine. I built a little test stand to mount the K Series Bosch dizzy, with the Nissan 360-1 trigger S.S. disk, so I could work on it's design, in the comfort of my office/workshop. A little 3500 RPM electric motor drives the dizzy, as depicted below. The electric motor is fully controlled by a knob from a "dual gang" potentiometer. One gang, controls the electric motor speed, & the other sends a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) signal to the Speeduino ECU. As the electric motor will run right up to 3500 rpm, then I can effectively test the ECU at engine speeds up to 7K rpm, which is a lot more than my little 5K engine will ever be asked to do ! The Speeduino ECU is connected to TunerStudio software; which has a dashboard with all the guages You need for fully testing the ECU. TunerStudio, also incorporates a trigger pulse data logger, where you can view the stability & duration of all of the trigger pulses. Both diagnostic functions are really appreciated, when developing something dynamic like this exercise. P.S. When I get this running in my KE30, I will still need a Speeduino ECU for further bench testing. I don't need the hassle of pulling my ECU in & out of the KE30 constantly; so I managed to purchase another Speeduino PCB very cheap ($10). I've just about finished populating it with components, so I will be soon have two (2) to work with. The later version (V0.4.3d) printed circuit board, is about 2/3rds the size of my other board, (V0.3.7) & has a single 40 way plug in terminal block, so removing it & refitting it, to the vehicle wiring loom is much easier. P.S. When You look at the pricing of the big brand commercial ECUs; the cost really prevents the likes myself & others, from "dabbling" in this way. The Speeduino ECU, is the most low cost effective ECU system, I have come across, & is "open sourced", so it is always getting better & better, & has a very active forum, where You can always get assistance & information. Cheers Banjo

I'm am amateur welder; but am "in awe" of people that can produce precision cutting & welding, like you depict there. However, it was something I spotted in the top right corner of one of your great set of photos, that brought a smile to my face. I gather you sit on "the Esky", & put your feet on the two little "steel sticks" out the side. I can just see a handle bar & steering mechanisms on the front wheel. However, it's the yellow & black "motor at the rear that caught my eye. It looks to me, that it might be a chainsaw motor, with blade & cutting chain removed ? ? ? Cheers Banjo

A number of people have sent me PMs, asking about comments I have made in the past, about errors & stability of pulses generated in my experiments, from various trigger wheels & CAS arrangements. These comments are only related to those, who want to control their ignition and/or injection, using a "sequential system". (injecting & firing one cylinder at a time; (1-3-4-2 ) This results from the crankshaft having to rotate through 720 degrees, (2 revolutions); to fire all cylinders in sequence. In "wasted spark" mode, two cylinders are fired together every revolution. (1 & 4, on the first crankshaft revolution, & 2 & 3, on the second crankshaft revolution, although there were some olde British designed & manufactured 4 cylinder engines which had a firing order of (1-2-4-3). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCUftAm3Qag As any engines get older & older, they inevitably wear; & timing chain/sprockets & timing belts stretch & loose. This results in timing errors, in anything that is "camshaft driven; such as valves, & distributors, which require precise timing. It is impossible to correct valve timing, except by replacing camshaft sprockets, chains, & tensioners. Other items that are camshaft driven; items like the fuel pump, & oil pressure pump, don't need precise timing considerations at all. Injection & ignition timing is however critical, to get the best performance from your engine. There are a couple of places where this slop, wear, & inaccuracy of timing can occur. One is obviously the sprockets on the crank & camshaft; & the chain that joins them. The distributor, is driven at right angles to the camshaft from a set of helical gears & a dog joint to the oil pump, in our K Series engines. The dog joint & slot is a wear point. Next time you have you distributor out, take a look at it, & you'll see the tell wear mark, on the bottom of the dizzy shaft. However, this dog wear does not effect the timing; as the dizzy is driven by the meshed gears on the bottom of the dizzy shaft, & the camshaft. I recently did a test on my 5K engine, which had the sprockets & chain replaced about 4-5 years ago. I jammed the "locked" distributor internally, so it could not turn at all. I moved the crank in a clockwise direction & took a reading, from the large degree wheel attached to the flywheel; & noted the reading. I then turned the crank in the opposite direction; & again took a note of the degree wheel reading. I then subtracted one from the other, & the result was nearly 4 degrees. Bear in mind, that this was a static test, in that the engine was not running, & there was no oil pressure to drive the timing chain tensioner, to take up the "slop" in the timing chain. Dynamically, I'd expect the error would be about say 2 degrees. It could be much greater, in a tired olde K Series engine. A better way to see this "slop" in the camshaft chain & sprocket setup, is to run the engine at idle, & watch the timing light, illuminate the TDC mark on the camshaft sprocket cover. If it is rock solid, then your engine is in a good state; (timing wise) If it is wandering about, back & forth; then there is wear. I have come up, with a system, that overcomes that timing error, in a "sequentially fired & injected engine". It does this by synchronizing the varying C.A.S. (camshaft angle sensor/pulse) which is moving around; with a crankshaft generated pulse, which cannot move around, as it is rock solid, because it comes from either the crankshaft pulley, or flywheel; both of which, are one with the crankshaft. The following rough sketch, describes this graphically. The top line (A) of the C.A.S (Crank Angle Sensor) pulses are created by, & generated in the distributor. Timing wise they will move around relative to the crankshaft, as depicted on line "A". The camshaft angle sensor (CAS), will produce this once every two revolutions of the crankshaft. The second line "B" is the crank angle sensor, which is rock solid, as it cannot move around horizontally, but does turn up every revolution. However, if we logically "AND", or "NAND" these two pulses together in a logic IC (integrated circuit), we produce an extremely stable single pulse, every two (2) revolutions of the crankshaft, which becomes our new stable C.A.S signal, generated by the crankshaft, in co-ordination with the camshaft. The only proviso of this arrangement; is that the distributor produced pulse must be wider than the crank pulse, so as it moves around laterally/timewise; that the two pulses will always overlap, & allow the logically generated C.A.S. pulse on line "C" above; to be produced. So where do we need to place this crank pulse, operationally, described above as line "B" ? Most ECU manufacturers suggest somewhere well before the most advance one could expect to require. Very few engines, or ECUs, would require an advance, under any condition; greater than say 40 deg BTDC No: 1 cylinder. I've always set mine somewhere between 90 - 60 degrees BTDC No: 1 cylinder. Be warned that many ECU manufacturers use & stipulate a number that is after TDC; so the setting in the ECU, may actually be 270 - 300 deg ATDC (which is 360 - 90 or 360 - 60). Unless you are using a distributor that distributes the spark via a rotor button & individual spark plug HT wiring, where the positioning of the distributor, is critical, the setup is pretty easy. Set the crankshaft in the desired position, where the pulse for line "B" above is produced. Then simply insert the distributor, & rotate until, the CAS pulse (line "A") above is also present, at the same point in time. Ensure duration of "A pulse" overlaps pulse "B", & pulse "C" will be produced cleanly & reliably. Hope that is all clear. Cheers Banjo

Well sounded like a really good idea, at the time; but the realisation of it, was like going down a "rabbit burrow"; with so many twists & turns. The Nissan vehicles were one of the first to introduce the 360 slot disc, although it had to be 54mm in dia.; whereas all the others; including my 24-1 S.S. disc, were 50mm in dia. The optical reader module was also slightly larger, to accommodate the 54mm disc. This posed a problem; as the module for the 50mm disc, just fitted inside a "gutted" the larger K Series 'Bosch dizzy housing, so how was I going to squeeze in the 4mm larger Nissan module, therein. However, I was buoyed & encoraged by Taz-RX, who had previously done this. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/10940-sis-5kte-ke55/page/67/ It required a lot of cutting & filing; drilling & tapping; to generally get the module, concentric around the center shaft. It also required a completely new base plate to be fashioned, to attach the optical module to. There are two critical measurements, when attempting this project. One is that the center shaft of the dizzy, is completely concentric with the big hole it passes through, in the module. This results in all the slots in the punched S.S. disc, passing directly under the infra-red source & reader head, on the top right corner of the above pic. The second critical dimension is that the disc pass clearly through the middle of the slot in the reader head. The gap in the reader head, is only 1.5 mm wide. The disc is 0.5mm thick. That only leaves a gap on either side of the S.S. disc of 0.5mm. So just when I got it all right, & was fitting the dizzy cap I had made; I found the reader head on the module , fouled with the inner edge of the dizzy cap; requiring some delicate work with a rotary cutter & drill. Anyway; looked good when finished & now I had to make it work. I then made up a new stand for the dizzy, so I could test it, on the bench, as with 360 slots around the edge of the S.S. disk, You don't need any vibration to upset the "cleanness" of the delivered pulses to the ECU. I was dissappointed to find that the Speeduino firmware does not cater for the Nissan 360 slot disc I had, which had 4 off CAS slots per revolution. One slot which is the true CAS pulse; is wider that the remaining three (3); which are all the same width. Looked like I might have to revert to using a /2 frequency divider, to reduce the effective trigger pulses to 180 per camshaft revolution; & also block off the three (3) CAS slots I did not require. (tiny little slivers of black insulation tape worked well) I then came up with an idea of cheating, by setting the firmware trigger settings, to advise the ECU that this dizzy's outputs where generated by the crankshaft; & not the camshaft. That also allowed the teeth per revolution to be set to 180, as Speeduino firmware will not accept a trigger number greater than 255. Well it worked, & I now have some serious testing to do on the bench, to ensure that it works under all conditions, & scenarios. P.S. Not having to divide the trigger output of the module by two (2); resulted in a trigger resolution of 2 degrees, which is excellent. Cheers Banjo

I was in Canberra at the weekend, to see the Floriade Flower Festival, & view for the first time, a house my son & His partner have recently purchased, On Sunday, the 5th, My son took us to the lovely little country town, of Boorowa, for the Irish Woolfest. https://irishwoolfest.com.au/ Was very glad to see a KE Corolla, in the main street parade ! There was also a lovely Hilman Imp ! And a Bellett A couple of very olde classics . . . . . . And of cause; some tractors ! And a couple of exotics . . . Lovely town, with a lot of history; & a lovely day out ! Cheers Banjo

Altezzaclub put me onto a Camry TPS that He has used; & that are reasonably priced on ebay. The only disadvantage is, that they are not rotated from the center. Center driven ones are available. This Honeywell TPS I found online, has a 6mm dia. shaft in the middle of it; however, at $ 220.00 ea., its a bit rich. Link to Above Honeywell specs. Big issue mounting a TPS on a carby K series engine; as it has to sit out there in the middle of nowhere. I made a mounting bracket out of 3mm thick aluminium, as below. It is important, that the center of that big round hole, where the Camry TPS is mounted, is perfectly in line with the carby butterfly shaft center. The two top holes arrowed, attached to the top of the carby. The bottom single mounting point, was the extension on the inlet manifold, which normally, will support the standard air filter housing leg. Add an EFI Solutions 4W plug & harness wire back to the ECU under the dash; & it looks like this. Works really well ! Only three of the four wires are used in a standard TPS, ECU installation. Twas time to eventually fit my COPs mounting frame, to ensure I can fit the Bosch dizzy in there, underneath it, as I'm now not using the trigger disk, on the crankshaft pulley. So all good, but a couple of return coolant lines to reroute first. Getting close to the first fire up, as I now have an acquired a Nissan CAS dissy, to fit into a Bosch K Series dizzy housing, which Altezzaclub sourced at His local wreckers, ThankYou ! This particular one has a 54mm dia. S.S. disc, with 360 slots around the edge. That will provide excellent resolution,; for the ECU, for the position of the crankshaft, at any time. Cheers Banjo

Good to hear You are "back on the road" ! Chers Banjo

Hi Pete, So sorry to hear You have "a health issue". Join the club ! Getting back behind the steering wheel, will certainly help. I did a recent trip to Sydney & back, from Brisbane, & it was really good for the moral. I find, when You are on the open road, travelling close to the speed limit, You are concentrating so much on the job at hand; that all other issues seem to be forgotten about, for the time being. I've tried a few coolant water additives, over the years, but not Thermocure Evaporust. Had a quick look on Google last night, & found a utube guy with a BMW, who did a clean, & the results were really good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aq3brzIA3e0 What I like about this product, is that it keeps giving for quite a while. In another video, a guy didn't throw away, the waste from the coolant system. He left it in a plastic tub, & just threw in any metal tools that had a bit of rust on them. After about a week, He took them out, & rinsed them, & they looked like new. Really a problem in Brisbane & Qld. in general, where our humidity levels are higher. P.S. What is it about BMW water pumps ? I had to change mine, in my BMW; that had a failed bearing like this guys. The seal breaks down, & once there is coolant in there; it is "bye bye bearing". Cheers Banjo

Water flow issues at the back of the head, have always been a problem. The original moulds for manufacturing K Series heads, were made in a couple of styles. Whether it is a block or a head; there is a need to remove the sand inside the finished product, before the bare casting starts to get machined. It's those holes that get filled with "Welsh Plugs", in the block. The head on the other hand, already had a large hole right in the front of the head, where the thermostat housing attaches, & the coolant exits the engine. It needed a hole in the casting, to remove the sand at the rear of the head. There were some K series aluminium heads that had the equivalent of a large Welsh plug. The best head was one that had a bolt on plate, with four (4) off 10mm bolts. This is a reasonably large hole, which you can release a lot of crud through. It is also an ideal spot to fit an additional outlet to; to feed coolant back to the thermostat housing, from of the rear of the head & engine. There were some early model Corollas, that took the cabin hot water heater feed from this point. I also have a 4K-U engine, with a factory fitted coolant feed point from the rear of the head, back to thermostat housing at the front; running through a factory fitted pipe running down the side of the engine, just below the spark plugs. I've also modified my 5K engine, to have a return pipe, running just behind the inlet manifold. Tests I've carried out before & after fitment, indicated the real reduction in temperature at the back of the head. I think I documented it on here somewhere; but off memory, it was about a 15 deg C reduction. Cheers Banjo

After a lot of time spent, investigating different triggering systems for my 5K engine, I've come up with a simple arrangement, by fitting an optical CAS distributor module, inside a K Series Bosch dissy, which is a lot wider than the more common Denso model dissy. I'm really happy with the Speeduino's performance on the bench, so it is now time to fit it to my 4K-U in my KE30, 2 door sedan, daily drive. I've just been checking all the external temp sensors on the car today, to hook into the ECU. However, I've just realised, my KE-30, doesn't have a TPS on it. It will need one, for the Speeduino to function properly. I have a TPS of "unknown origin" hooked up on my 5K engine on a test bed in the garage, but don't want to pilfer that. It's a bit crude, but it has worked well on the 5K on the test stand, for a few years now. This olde TPS rotates from the center of the carby butterfly shaft. Just looked on ebay & there are plenty of TPS units there for many makes of engine. They don't however indicate which direction they rotate in. Currently I just want to test this ECU, using ignition only. Once that's sorted, I'll add the 7K EFI inlet system I have, complete with injectors. Has anyone made up a TPS arrangement for a K Series carby engine, that works OK, & could pop a photo up, of how they have mounted it, & what TPS unit they used. The stainless steel timing disc I currently have, has 24 camshaft trigger pulses per revolution, & one CAS pulse. I would like a S.S. disk with 36, 60 or 72 holes around the disk. Chased everyone here in Australia, & nothing available; so might have to bring one in from the USA. There is one, that was used on Nissan vehicles which has 360 slots punched around the perimeter. Heaven knows how they do it; as the disks are only 50mm in diameter. It anyone has one of these disks they want to part with, for $$$, then give me a yell. The 360 slot disc, on the camshaft, would provide a crankshaft RPM resolution of 2 degrees, whereas my current 24 tooth disk, provides, just 30 degrees. If I do get hold of a 360 hole disk, I'll have to divide down the frequency a bit, as Speeduino ECU setup, will not accept a number greater than 255, for the number of trigger teeth. Cheers Banjo

Most of You are well aware of my interest in ECUs & trigger systems, to produce the ultimate power & reliability, of our K series engines, designed & built over 50 years ago. I've been building & testing, various trigger wheels: & have recently moved onto optical trigger discs, built inside existing "gutted" K series distributors. My final experiment, will be with a flywheel located trigger wheel; where I initially started years ago, counting flywheel ring gear teeth; until I realised there was no ECU capable of counting odd numbers of teeth. (not the case these days) Simple Flywheel 36:1 trigger system In doing these experiments, I've not wanted to reinvent the wheel, so to speak; or make mistakes or, "go down rabbit burrows" ; only to have to retreat. However, this research, takes a lot of time on the net, reading articles & posts on other forums, about this subject. Recently, I've been getting AI to do this research for me; & to date, I've not found anything it has written, that was not accurate. So today, I asked AI to write a short article about the practicality of the number of teeth on a trigger wheel, & why the industry has standardized, on teeth numbers between say 24 to 72 teeth per crankshaft revolution. just look at the sheer numbers of different mechanical arrangements people have come up with. Trigger Wheels Pictorially Below, is what AI produced . . . . . ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Automotive ECU Crankshaft Trigger Wheel: Design, Functionality, and Optimal Tooth Count An In-Depth Guide to Crankshaft Trigger Wheels and Tooth Count Selection for Engine Control Units Introduction The heart of an internal combustion engine is a symphony of precisely timed events, each dependent on accurate position and speed measurements of key components. At the center of this orchestration lies the crankshaft trigger wheel, a seemingly simple but crucial element that enables the engine control unit (ECU) to synchronize ignition timing, fuel injection, and variable valve control. In this article, we will explore the design and function of automotive crankshaft trigger wheels, examine the importance of tooth count, and discuss what range of teeth per revolution proves most practical and effective in modern vehicle applications. Understanding the Crankshaft Trigger Wheel The crankshaft trigger wheel, sometimes referred to as a reluctor wheel or timing wheel, is a toothed disc mounted to the engine's crankshaft. As the crankshaft rotates, the trigger wheel passes by a sensor—typically a magnetic or Hall effect sensor—which reads the passing teeth to generate electronic signals. These signals are interpreted by the ECU to determine the crankshaft’s position and rotational speed in real-time. Function in the Engine Management System The main roles of the trigger wheel are: · Crankshaft Position Sensing: The ECU uses the signals to determine the crankshaft's angular position. Precise knowledge of this position is vital for optimizing ignition and fuel injection events. · Engine Speed Measurement: By counting the number of teeth passing the sensor per unit time, the ECU can calculate the engine's RPM with high accuracy. · Synchronization: The trigger wheel often includes a unique pattern—commonly a missing tooth or unique gap—that allows the ECU to determine the crankshaft’s absolute position within its cycle, differentiating between top dead center (TDC) for cylinder 1 and other rotation points. Design Variations of Trigger Wheels Trigger wheels can be found in several configurations and with different numbers of teeth, depending on the engine's complexity and the precision required by the ECU. The most common designs include: · Single-tooth Wheels: Rare today, these provide only a basic signal per revolution and lack precision for modern high-performance or emission-controlled engines. · Multi-tooth Wheels with Missing Teeth: Widely used, such as the 36-1 wheel, which has 36 equally spaced teeth with one missing. The missing tooth provides a unique positional reference. · Dual-track Wheels: Some advanced systems use two concentric tracks of teeth for greater positional accuracy or for distinguishing between crankshaft and camshaft positions. Sensor Types Most trigger wheels work with either variable reluctance (VR) sensors or Hall effect sensors: · VR Sensors: Generate an alternating voltage as teeth pass by a magnetic pickup. · Hall Effect Sensors: Use an electronic effect to produce a digital signal, and are less susceptible to electrical noise. The Importance of Tooth Count The number of teeth on a trigger wheel fundamentally affects the ECU’s ability to interpret engine speed and position: · Resolution: More teeth per revolution increase the position data’s granularity, allowing finer control of ignition and fuel events. · Signal Frequency: Higher tooth count means more signals per revolution, which can improve accuracy, but also increases the processing demand on the ECU and the system’s susceptibility to electrical noise or missed pulses. The choice of tooth count, therefore, is a critical balance between achieving sufficient resolution and maintaining reliable signal integrity and manageable ECU processing overhead. Practical & Effective Tooth Count Ranges Modern automotive practice has settled on specific ranges of teeth per revolution as being optimal for most applications. Factors influencing this choice include engine speed range, ECU processing power, required precision, and physical constraints. Common Tooth Count Configurations · 12-1 and 24-1 Wheels: Used in many early electronically controlled engines, these provide a moderate level of resolution suitable for simple sequential or batch-fire ignition and fuel control. With 12 or 24 signals per revolution, they offer a balance between precision and simplicity. · 36-1 and 60-2 Wheels: These are now considered standard in many OEM and performance applications. A 36-1 wheel has 36 teeth with one missing, while the 60-2 has 60 teeth and two missing. The missing teeth create distinct reference points, enabling the ECU to quickly synchronize with the crank’s position. · More than 60 Teeth: Rarely used in automotive crankshaft applications due to excessive signal frequency at high RPM, which can overwhelm sensor and ECU capabilities. Ideal Range for Most Applications For the majority of modern engines, the most practical and effective range for a crankshaft trigger wheel is typically 24 to 60 teeth per revolution, often with one or two missing teeth for synchronization. Here’s why: · Resolution vs. Processing: This range provides sufficient resolution for precise ignition and fuel injection control, even at high engine speeds, while not overburdening the ECU with an excessive number of signals. · Signal Integrity: With too few teeth (less than 12), the ECU may struggle to interpolate crank position accurately at low speeds or during rapid acceleration. With too many teeth (more than 60), the risk of missed pulses and signal noise increases, especially at high RPMs. · Industry Practice: The 36-1 configuration is especially popular among OEMs and aftermarket ECUs for its reliability, ease of synchronization, and proven performance in diverse environments. Special Considerations and Advanced Applications Some high-performance engines, racing ECUs, or specialized applications may deviate from the standard range. For example: · Motorsport: Racing engines sometimes use higher-tooth-count wheels in conjunction with advanced ECUs capable of processing very high-frequency input to enable extremely precise control at extremely high RPMs. · Low Cylinder Count Engines: Engines with fewer cylinders or unusual firing orders might use custom wheels to ensure the ECU can distinguish cylinder phases effectively. · Redundancy and Diagnostics: Some trigger wheels incorporate multiple tracks or additional reference marks to enhance diagnostic capabilities or provide backup signals in case of sensor failure. Installation and Machining Constraints Physical factors also play a role in tooth count selection: · Wheel Diameter: A small diameter restricts the maximum number of teeth that can be reliably fabricated and sensed. Too many small teeth could lead to manufacturing defects or sensor misreads. · Mounting Location: Space in the timing cover or crank pulley area may limit wheel size and, thus, tooth count. · Sensor Technology: The sensor's resolution and sensitivity will also dictate the practical limits for tooth count and spacing. Conclusion The crankshaft trigger wheel is a vital component in modern engine management systems, translating the mechanical motion of the crankshaft into precise digital signals for the ECU. Selecting the optimal tooth count is a balancing act: too few teeth and the system loses precision; too many and it risks complications from noise, missed pulses, or processing overload. For most automotive applications, the most practical and effective range is 24 to 60 teeth per revolution, with configurations like 36-1 and 60-2 leading the way due to their proven reliability and performance across a broad spectrum of engines. Advancements in ECU and sensor technology may gradually shift these boundaries, but for now, adhering to this range ensures robust, accurate, and efficient engine control in both OEM and aftermarket contexts. Whether building a custom engine or tuning a contemporary performance car, understanding the role and design of the crankshaft trigger wheel—and the best practices for tooth count—remains foundational to achieving optimal results. P.S. This was produced by AI in about 5-8 seconds. It used the AI dialogue line just above the start of a new Microsoft Word document. P.S.S. I'm surprised; that with small micros, becoming faster & cheaper; that someone simply has not just built a tooth counter program & hardware, so that the main ECU processor does not have to be interrupted, every time a tooth rising or falling edge appears. The line above in the AI's conclusion; "Advancements in ECU and sensor technology may gradually shift these boundaries" ; may be alluding to just that possibility. Cheers Banjo

Further, to my previous post above, I received the optical CAS module yesterday, pictured also in my previous post. Last night, I eagerly spent some time, fitting it to a Toyota K Series "Bosch" dissy body. I filed out the side of the dissy body, so the connection part of the module, can easily have the harness plug fitted, similarly to how it is on the Daewoo Matiz 800cc engine. It is made by Mando & has part numbers M934 & 4G16AA on it. These modules, were used on some Nissan, Mitsubishi, & Daewoo Matiz engines; so the wiring harness 4 way plug, are commonly available at auto parts suppliers, like EFI Solutions, where I ordered one. However, I have one specific simple problem, that I cannot resolve; despite hours of searching the net. I don't know what the individual 4 off connections on the Module terminal socket, are attached to. I know one will be either +5V or +12V supply voltage. One will be a chassis earth / ground. One will be the CAS single pulse per rotation output; & one will be the RPM pulse output. (In my case 24 pulses per revolution) However, I don't know how they are arranged on this module. You'd think there would be a standard; but sadly, NO. There is no paperwork or specs, with the part supplied. I pumped in every P/N I could find attached to this module, to Google; & it hasn't been able to supply the info. I really only need to know the +5V or +12V supply & Earth/Chassis terminals; as once I have it powered, I can easily check the two outputs of the remaining two terminals, with the oscilloscope, which usually have an open collector circuit, which they pull down to ground. I even contacted the Chevrolet Club forum, in the UK last night, as the Daewoo engine was, I believed; used in the Chevrolet. Unfortunately, they could not help either. I know this system will work, but there is one issue with these modules. The light beam passing through the punched holes in the disc, is infra-red light, so the unit will not be affected by visible light. However, the four tiny optics LEDs & optical sensors could be impacted, over time, by dust & fumes, & oil film on the optical sensor surfaces. The unit, should be tightly sealed, in a real use application, in the engine bay. Others have reported this issue, on threads I have read, on the net. Once I get that sorted, I'll hook it up, to the small speed controlled electric motor, I have on my bench, which can achieve 3500 RPM. As this is a distributor application; that means I can test it up to 7000 RPM crankshaft speed. I did come across this thread, of a guy that had an issue with the optical CAS distributor's electronics, with heat & poor soldering. https://d-iy-company.blogspot.com/ Really hope, someone can help, or point me in the right direction, regarding the four terminal connections identification. Then I can just pop it in the KE30, & try it out, with my latest COP conversion. Cheers Banjo

Hi Sam, I had a 2 door KE-55 Couple. It had a 4 speed manual GB in it. I fitted a K50 5 speed gearbox. It used the same tailshaft, The KE50, went to "Rust Heaven". I bought a 2 door KE-30 2 door sedan, with a 3 speed auto. Out came the auto, & in went the 5 speed manual box, along with the same tailshaft. I'd have to sit down with the factory manuals & dig out all the linear distances between front & rear axle centers; but I'll think you'll find if they aren't exactly all the same; it will only be a few millimetres between them. I've got a spare tailshaft in the shed. I'll measure it tomorrow, & let You know whether it is different, to the one in my KE30, with the K50 GB. Cheers Banjo

Hi Daniel, Welcome aboard ! The horn not working is a perennial problem, that most come across, at some time or other. I don't think that model had a horn relay. Does your Rolla have one or two horns ? Easy to test if the horns actually work or not, by running a wire from the battery to each horn's feed wire, & make sure that they actually work. In fact, it is a really good idea, to fit a horn relay, so the horn button wiper ring carbon contact, is only handling the relay current. The little carbon brush, wears down until, it's spring won't hold it against the ring. Short term, You might get it to work, by "stretching" the fine spring a little. You'll have to remove the steering wheel, to accomplish that. You'll need the wiring diagram, to work out which coloured wire is which, on the wiper motor on the engine fire wall. Again, You should be able to test the wiper motor, at the firewall, just in case it is the motor itself; & not the switch. The lever assembly do wear out, & I remember replacing mine years ago. Mine does not have an intermittent setting for the wipers. Here is a link, that may help You. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72751-ke55-wipers-not-working/#comments Cheers Banjo

The incremental rotary encoders, I came across; with 360 pulses per revolution, seemed like a perfect way to produce a triggering system; physically small enough that it could fit inside an existing distributor body. This would mean that anyone that was handy; could "gut an olde dissy", & simply fit an encoder; & then replace the dissy on the K series engine. When I did my experiments on a 5K engine, with various aluminium disks & magnets, with Hall effect sensors; I had an engine on a test stand in my garage; & access, was very easy. Doing the same thing, with the engine in the car, could be very difficult; as every time You needed to run it, you'd have the replace the radiator, & maybe the grill. Simply removing the olde dissy, & replacing with another, is a relatively easy undertaking. However, my tests with the rotary encoders, had some side effects, resulting in pulses produced that "wavered around", on their leading & trailing edges. Most ECUs, trigger off a leading edge of a pulse, not the height or width of the pulse. After all; the ECU is only interested in the frequency, or time difference between pulses, to calculate accurately; the RPM of the engine. The incremental encoders I was using had 360 pulses per revolution, which being driven, by the camshaft, resulted in a resolution of one pulse per every 2 degrees of crankshaft revolution (which is extremely good). However, the leading edges of those pulses were not stable. This could well be the mechanics of how the pulse were developed inside the encoder; or the induced vibration; as the distributor enclosing the encoder, is firmly part of the engine block. Once I opened up an encoder, & witnessed how small the windows were in a tiny wheel, it all became very clear, to me, where the problem lay. Anyone, who has ever played with, or read about the issues with Nissan & Mitsubishi twin OHC motors; that used CAS's driven by a camshaft, will be aware of what they describe as "timing chatter". This was particularly observable; when the optical trigger S.S. disks in the CAS; had 360 little optical slots, around their outer edge. However, others on RollaClub, have fitted the "rotary optical encoder", from Nissan SR20 CAS units to the Bosch dissy, that Toyota used on some early K series engines. It was a little wider in diameter, than the more common Denso dissy body. The picture below, indicates, it fits, like it was made for this dissy. Brand new optical transducers, are commonly available, on ebay, Amazon, & AliExpress, & are relatively inxpensive. These however, do not come with the 50mm S.S. laser cut, or punched slotted disk. The most commonly available ones are a 24-1 & a 360-1. There are 36-1, & 60-1 models of these slotted disks, but they are very hard to find. I'm currently trying to find an overseas source. A 72-1 or even a 120-1, would be really nice, if I can get hold of one. 50mm dia. S.S. disk 24-1 Optical So as soon as my brand new optical sensor arrives in a week; I'll start some bench testing, with my oscilloscope, to see if the result; does not suffer the issues, I've had with the incremental rotary encoders. So while awaiting this SR20 optical encoder, I wondered if what I'm proposing; is the very best way of triggering an ECU. So I asked AI; & this is word for word; what it produced. ____________________________________________________________________________________ The Pinnacle of Triggering Systems for Aftermarket ECUs in Automotive Engines Precision, Speed, and Reliability in Modern Engine Management Introduction In the pursuit of automotive performance, reliability, and efficiency, the role of the engine management system stands paramount. At the heart of any sophisticated engine control unit (ECU), whether factory or aftermarket, lies the triggering or “engine position sensing” system. For tuners, racers, and engineers seeking the utmost in accuracy and speed, the selection of a triggering system is a foundational choice. This document explores the very best, most accurate, and highest-speed triggering systems available today for aftermarket ECUs, dissecting how they work, why they excel, and which applications benefit most from their precision. The Function and Importance of Triggering Systems Triggering systems in automotive engines provide real-time feedback on crankshaft and camshaft positions. This information allows the ECU to precisely control ignition timing, fuel injection, variable valve timing, and other functions critical to high-performance and emissions-compliant operation. Any inaccuracy or latency in the triggering signals can result in poor engine efficiency, reduced power output, or even engine damage in extreme conditions. Key Requirements of High-Quality Triggering · Accuracy: Ability to resolve crank and cam position with minimal error, down to fractions of a degree. · Speed: Fast response with minimal latency, especially important at high RPMs (upwards of 10,000-15,000 RPM in racing engines). · Noise Immunity: Reliable operation in the presence of EMI/RFI and electrical noise common in modified vehicles. · Compatibility: Ability to interface with a wide range of aftermarket ECUs. · Reliability: Robustness under temperature, vibration, and environmental stress. Overview of Common Triggering Technologies · Inductive (VR) Sensors (Variable Reluctance): Generate AC signals as a toothed wheel passes a magnetic pickup. Robust and simple, but resolution and accuracy can suffer at very low or very high RPM. · Hall-Effect Sensors: Output a digital square wave as a ferrous target passes the sensor. Highly accurate at all speeds, with clear on/off transitions that are easy for ECUs to interpret. · Optical Sensors: Utilize a slotted disk and an LED-photodiode pair. Offer high resolution but can suffer from contamination and are less common in modern automotive applications. While VR and Hall sensors are both widely used, the combination of a well-designed toothed wheel and a Hall sensor is often considered the gold standard for aftermarket high-performance ECUs. The Best: High-Resolution Multi-Tooth Reluctor Wheels with Hall-Effect Sensors The leading solution in the aftermarket today is a high-resolution multi-tooth crank trigger wheel (such as a 36-1, 60-2, or similar) coupled with a precision Hall-effect sensor. This setup is favored by top ECU manufacturers (Motec, Haltech, Link, Emtron, Syvecs, and others) for its blend of speed, accuracy, and robustness. How It Works A multi-tooth wheel (often mounted to the crankshaft) has a series of teeth (e.g., 36 or 60), with one or two teeth omitted (“missing teeth”). The Hall sensor reads the passing teeth, generating a digital signal that the ECU interprets. The missing teeth serve as a reference for the ECU, allowing it to determine absolute engine position each revolution. When paired with a camshaft position sensor (also Hall or VR), the ECU can establish engine phase, enabling full sequential injection and ignition control. Why This System Excels · Exceptional Resolution: With more teeth, the ECU can “see” the crankshaft in finer increments, allowing for precise timing adjustments—critical at high RPM. · High Speed: Digital Hall-effect sensors can process rapid tooth passages even at extreme engine speeds, supporting applications up to and beyond 20,000 RPM. · Clean Signal: Hall sensors are less susceptible to noise and are easier to wire and calibrate than inductive sensors. · Self-Calibrating and Adaptive: Modern ECUs automatically adapt to signal characteristics and compensate for minor variations in wheel manufacturing or installation. Common Trigger Patterns · 60-2: Sixty teeth on the crank, with two missing. Popular in BMW, Volkswagen, and modern performance engines. · 36-1: Thirty-six teeth, one missing. Common in Ford and many racing applications. · 24-1 or 24-2: Used in some Japanese performance engines. The more teeth, the higher the resolution, but also the greater the processing demand—modern ECUs easily keep up. Comparative Analysis: Why Not VR or Optical? While variable reluctor (VR) sensors are robust and cheap, their analog nature can result in signal degradation, particularly at very low or very high RPMs. This can cause starting issues or misfires at high engine speeds. Optical sensors, though precise, are vulnerable to contamination and less reliable in the harsh automotive environment. Hall-effect sensors with multi-tooth wheels strike the best balance—digital, precise, robust, and widely supported. Integration with Aftermarket ECUs Modern standalone ECUs such as Motec M1, Haltech Nexus, AEM Infinity, Link G4X, Syvecs S7, and Emtron KV utilize advanced digital filtering and adaptive algorithms to extract the most from high-resolution Hall-based trigger systems. They can instantly detect crank/cam direction, synchronize rapidly, and support variable valve timing and complex multi-stage ignition/injection. Features now often include: · Real-time diagnostics of trigger signal health · Automatic compensation for sensor drift or minor wheel imperfections · Support for multi-channel (dual cam, quad cam) setups · Advanced fail-safe and redundancy modes Emerging Technologies and Future Trends Advanced magneto-resistive (AMR) sensors and integrated digital encoders are being explored, offering even more granular resolution and self-diagnostics. Wireless trigger systems may appear in the future, but as of today, the Hall sensor plus multi-tooth wheel remains the industry’s fastest, most accurate, and most reliable choice. Installation and Best Practices To maximize the benefits of a high-speed, high-accuracy system: · Mount the trigger wheel as close to the crank centerline as possible to minimize runout. · Use shielded, twisted pair wiring for sensor signals to further reduce noise. · Always follow ECU manufacturer recommendations for sensor voltage (often 5V or 12V) and pull-up resistor values. · Test signal integrity across the full RPM range before tuning aggressively. Real-World Application Examples Motorsport – Formula One and Endurance Racing: Modern F1 engines use proprietary high-resolution digital encoders, but for high-end club and professional motorsport, the 60-2 Hall system is the de facto standard. Street and Track Tuners: Cars retrofitted with ECUs like the Haltech Elite or Motec M1 see massive improvements in driveability and maximum RPM when switching from OEM VR sensors to Hall/multi-tooth setups. Conclusion For those seeking the ultimate in engine control, the pairing of a high-resolution multi-tooth trigger wheel (such as 36-1 or 60-2) with a premium Hall-effect sensor delivers the very best in speed, accuracy, and reliability. This combination is supported by every leading aftermarket ECU, is robust to electrical and environmental noise, and provides the foundation for precision tuning and advanced features. While technology continues to evolve, this system remains the gold standard for modern performance and racing engines. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Cheers Banjo

I have a friend down in NSW, up Gosford way, who is in the final stages of finishing off an SR20 Nissan engine rebuild, with all the good stuff, as part of the engine makeover/upgrade. He wants to drop it into a Corolla KE70 body; but is having great difficulty, locating a reasonable KE70 body. He doesn't mind if it is just a shell, as long as it hasn't got extensive rust. Obviously, He won't be put off, if it doesn't have an engine in it, as He has His SR20, just about ready to drop in. Obviously, if it was in the Sydney greater area, that would be ideal; but is prepared to transport it from anywhere, within a days drive ! If You have seen a "reasonable one", at a wreckers somewhere; give me a yell, & I'll pass the info onto Him. Many Thanks ! Cheers Banjo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CULI2VClEm8 Cheers Banjo

Haven't had a lot of time, to persue this project lately, & have run into a few issues with my Rotary Encoder with a Z Pulse. The first one, with a "Z" pulse output, that I purchased; I accidentally killed with an incorrect connection, whilst testing it. I had to await a second one to arrived, & that worked; but I could not get nice stable pulses from it. I tried all sorts of ways to stabilise it, but came to the conclusion; that the "timing jitter" & unsteadness, of the CRO traces, were in fact a result of the vibration, inside the rotary encoder itself. This encoder, was pimarily utilised, because I had discovered, they were available with an additional single "Z" pulse, per revolution. Maybe all rotary encoders are not all built equally. I did not remember, having this issue, with the very first rotary encoder I purchased; that did not have, the single "Z" pulse, per revolution. At the weekend I pulled out the original Bosch dissy I had fitted this encoder to, along with the single CAS pulse I had built in the base of the dissy. The whole aim of using an encoder, with a "Z" pulse; was to avoid having to create a CAS pulse, & to fit the rotary encoder, completely, deep inside a narrow Corolla dissy. As it turned out, the rotary encoder, still stuck out high a bit; as I I had to fit a tiny rotary flexible shaft joiner, between the rotary encoder & the dissy shaft, which had to be turned down a bit. Getting the two shafts, which are slightly different in diameter; to be completely concentric, needed patience. Got it all working well, & there is no jitter or instability from the 360/6 pulses per dissy revolution; which just goes to prove that all rotary encoders are not built the same. The CRO traces show a steady & reliable trace of pulses. The top trace is the output of the encoders 360 pulses per revolution. The bottom trace is after the a divider has reduced that number to 60 pulses per distributor revolution. As the distributor turns only once, for two rotations of the crankshaft, then 180 pulses divided by 6 = 30 trigger pulses for each revolution, of the crankshaft. If it works well, I will decrese the division of the 360 off pulses to 3, which will produces 120 pulses per dissy revolution, which will equate to a 60 tooth trigger wheel, fitted to the crankshaft. Most ECU setups, allow you to nominated whether the pulse train originates from the cam-shaft, or crankshaft. Just have to hook it up to the Speeduino & COPs, & setup the COPS charging rate times per system voltage table; in TunerStudio, so there is no chance of overheating the COPs. Cheers Banjo

There are others on Rollaclub, over the years, that have used the Wade 169 32/36 cam grind, who have advised they were good. Just search Wade cams on Rollaclub;, & You should be able to read others comments about the Wade cam you are using. Some of these posts go back over 15 years. The other question I didn't ask You, in my previous post; was whether your 5K engine has hydraulic lifers, or have been replaced with solid lifters. Cheers Banjo

Hi Oscar, Too much advance; can cause pinging, at that part of the rev range. A simple timing light, & a bit of "white out", on the crankshaft pulley, & timing mark; will tell you, if that's the issue. However, there are a few other things that can cause "pinging", & knocking at high revs; besides it being simply the result of too much advance. This is what the "internet library" (AI), has to say about it. Can Engine Knocking at High RPM Be Caused by Excessive Ignition Advance? Understanding the Link Between Ignition Timing and Engine Knock Engine knocking, also known as detonation or pinging, is a phenomenon where fuel combusts prematurely or unevenly within the combustion chamber of an internal combustion engine. This can lead to a characteristic metallic "knock" or "ping" noise, reduced efficiency, and, in severe cases, engine damage. Ignition Timing Explained Ignition timing refers to the point in the engine's cycle when the spark plug fires to ignite the air-fuel mixture. This is typically measured in degrees before top dead center (BTDC), indicating how far in advance of the piston reaching its uppermost position the spark is triggered. An optimal ignition advance ensures that the peak pressure generated by combustion occurs slightly after top dead center, maximizing power and efficiency. However, if the ignition is too far advanced, the peak pressure occurs too early, forcing the piston downward while it is still traveling upward, which can lead to abnormal combustion events. High RPM Operation and Knocking At higher revolutions per minute (RPM), the air-fuel mixture has less time to combust completely. Engines are typically designed to run more ignition advance as RPM increases to compensate for this reduced combustion time. However, there is a limit to how much advance can be safely used. If ignition timing is excessively advanced at high RPM: · The spark plug fires too early, increasing cylinder pressure and temperature before the piston reaches top dead center. · This can ignite the remaining mixture prematurely or cause multiple combustion fronts, which collide and result in knocking. · The tendency for knocking increases if the engine is under heavy load, running lean, or using low-octane fuel that is less resistant to pre-ignition. Symptoms and Consequences Knocking at high RPM caused by too much ignition advance can manifest as: · Distinct metallic pinging or knocking noises under acceleration or sustained high RPM operation · Loss of power and throttle response · Increased engine temperatures · Potential piston or valve damage if the condition persists Diagnosis and Correction If engine knocking is observed at high RPM, it is important to: · Check and, if necessary, retard ignition timing in the problematic rev range · Ensure the engine is running the correct fuel grade · Inspect for other causes such as excessive compression, carbon buildup, or overheating · Use a timing light or engine management system diagnostics to verify actual ignition timing under load Conclusion In summary, yes, knocking in an engine at high revolutions can result from too much ignition advance in that part of the rev range. Proper ignition timing is critical to preventing knock, maximizing performance, and protecting the engine from damage. If you suspect ignition timing is the cause of knocking, it is advisable to consult the vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic to adjust timing appropriately. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I'd have to look up how agressive the timing is on a Wade 169 cam, as that will also effect the valve & the fuel entry to the combustion camber. There is also the possibility, that in the reassembly of the engine the valve timing is out a little by incorrect fitting of the timing chain, & it's markings on the camshaft sprocket at TDC. If You pull out all the spark plugs, & take the rocker cover off, you should be able to visibly see the opening & closing of all the inlet & exhaust valves, in accordance with the Wade 169 cam specification. You willl however; need to fit a large timing disk to the cranksaft pulley, to accomlish this exercise. This is usually carried out, by the engine assembler, at the time of re-assembly. Was the cam & engine assembled by an engine engineering shop, or did You do it yourself ? When the engine cam timing is checked at an engine engineering shop; they usually fit a large "degree wheel", to the flywheel. Hope that helps point You in the right direction. I would not suggest driving the car too much, until You get this sorted. Cheers Banjo Cheers Banjo

Whirring sound ? First thought that comes to mind, is clutch adjustment that is wong, & the throw out bearing is just touching the pressure plate pad ? easy to test. Back off the adjustment, & see it it goes away. Cheers Banjo

Thanks for the extra pictures, which are good hi resolutions ones. I was able to blow the photos up, & there is the first signs of surface rust, just starting to appear, in all the usual places. Do you believe the car has been ever resprayed, during it's life ? Was the car ever located near the sea, or coast ? I belive the car was in Alabama; & maybe near the Coosa River at one time, in it's life. Maybe somewhere near Incaguat. Rust is the greatest enemy of Corollas. moisture gets trapped under window rubbers & the like, & the rubbers become hard, & less protective. I'd be going over it, with, "a fine tooth comb". Early task, would be to take out all the seats, & lift the carpet, & have a good look there. Does it have a paint code on it, under the bonnet/hood ? You've got a fine example of a Toyota Corolla; if You want to make a show car of it. Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo

Thanks for the pics ! Looks like You have a pretty good car, as a starting point, to produce a "show car". Looks very clean, & hopefully does not have any rust therein. Looks pretty standard & very clean, under the bonnet/hood, so You seem to have a perfect starting place. What year model is it ? Keep the pictures coming; as "a picture tells a thousand words"; so they say. Cheers Banjo

Thanks for the photo ! That is one very pretty Rolla. That front angle, provides a very aggressive appearance, which I like. Have You had the car for a while, or did You acquire it recently ? Would love to see a couple of pictures, under the hood. It is certainly worth spending the money, & getting the suspension, & ride sorted. I'm assuming it is a "show car"; & won't be used in competition; so You have to find that happy place, between a lowered car, & a comfortable one to drive. Take Altezzaclub's advice, & in addition; do as much reading & research as You can. Some sort of "air bag" suspension, would probably be best, where you can dial up the suspension, at will; & find the right balance between height & comfort. Keep the photos coming. Cheers Banjo