parrot

i was just looking at that Yaris. Might have to go and have a look at one in the metal.

$12750, plus buyers premium which I see is a minimum of $1000.

$7250 now with 2 days to go. There’s also a 6% buyers commission. That’s a bit of a lurk. Well hopefully it will get driven and stay in Melbourne, rather than stuck away in storage somewhere. I friend of mine has an essentially nil mileage TA23 he just has stored away. Although he does have a Ferrari 308 and an RT Charger amongst other interesting things That do get driven. He gets first look at things as he works in the trade. Some years back he sent an auto KE15 to Shannon’s unreserved and it only went for about $1200 to a guy who gave it to his daughter as a first car. That idea just fills me with horror.

How many drivers are there on the road. How many of them have the remotest interest in "old" cars. Not many as a proportion. When my 18yo son was in the market for a car, I made sure he ended up in a current model Mazda 3. I don't really like driving it, a very sterile experience. But it has every safety feature you could ever dream of, and that's what both of us do like. There have been a couple of occasions in year one where it has automatically braked and saved him from an accident. Money very well spent. And to think my AE86 is now worth close to the same as his Mazda? Most people could not understand it. I know which one makes me smile whenever I drive it. But I also know which one he (and I) would prefer him to be driving.

Don’t make me look. Is it a Delorean? In that case yes.

Had a very similar intermittent fault with my initial 4AGE conversion in the AE86. Was fine for a long time, then would intermittently stop. No start, no start, then eventually restart. Sometimes the next day. Turned out a soldered joint at the EFI relay had popped off the junction box so was making intermittent contact. Very frustrating. Also had a similar issue with idle. The fix came after I installed the idle up sensor. Called the A/C idle up sensor but also increases idle speed with other increased electrical load such as lights etc. For some years I sat at traffic lights in Melbourne traffic with foot on accelerator. It did become somewhat tiresome. That was with 268 degree duration cams where the maximum the ecu could supposedly cope with was 270. That was according to Wade's who did some development work with Toyota on the bigport. Initially I had a factory 4AG engine loom spliced into the 4AC charge/lights and dash loom. Then I installed factory 4AGE AE86 charge/light and dash looms as well. I have never had issue with over run

Water cooled alternators! I wonder what uses those. Probably a Bugatti Veyron or some such. I was working through that and wondered what the field current is, and got onto another page that explained it quite well. https://alternatorparts.com/understanding-alternators.html#:~:text=ALTERNATOR ROTOR&text=Current through the wire coil,%2FC%2C or direct current. It actually starts to make sense, sort of. I seem to recall my old Datsun 1600's had adjustable regulators I vaguely recall twiddling with no idea of what I was doing, and no doubt made things worse. But at least it turned me to reliable Toyota's

Now I’m not the most electrically minded, but was looking at a Nippondenso KE15 and KE70 alternator regulator yesterday and wondered, what’s the difference? I’m guessing it has something to do with the output rating of the alternator? Certainly some of the wires are a bit bigger on the later regulator. But these little magic boxes have always puzzled me. What exactly do they do?

Have had a look at it and realised that pdf's can't be attached to a post anymore. Have saved the KE1x gearbox set as a jpeg but not sure how they will print. I'll have a go at it and if they work, I'll redo the rest

So took some holidays after being told 12 weeks banked was extreme. I resisted, but once I accepted it, realised how exhausted I was and counted the days. First week was a write off after heading to the GP on day 1 for a long put off general check up revealed I had diabetes. Multiple blood tests and dr visits ensued including seeing an endocrinologist the next day after pulling a few strings. Good news is that it’s manageable and seems to have been discovered before it has caused any lasting damage. Moral is, it’s worth getting checked out. Much of the second week has been a write off after collecting our long awaited puppy! Like having another baby! He is good fun, but lots of work. Amongst all this I have managed to get to work on the spot rust on the KE15. Elected to go carefully with a polystrip disc which effectively takes off the paint and virtually all the rust below without too much heat to distort the panel. Happily no evidence of panel perforation, so the years of careful storage without putting a tarp over it have saved it. Then treated what minimal rust remains with KBS rust blast which also etches the bare metal. The bonnet shows basically what the roof looked like beforehand. There’s a great old school paint shop, Milsome’s in Ferntree Gully who were able to put some factory colour, including for the TE27 into an aerosol, so shall see how that goes as an interim measure. Finally treated it to a xmas present with a NOS factory option twin outlet exhaust contraption. The box is straight thru, and the whole unit bolts on after the muffler.

Some years back I posted pdf copies of an assortment of gaskets so people could make their own. Now if you click on the files, you just get an error message. Is there a way to reactivate these, or is it a matter of reattaching current scans?

Ball joints BJ113 and tie rods inner TE427 and outer TE428 are easy enough to find on eBay. Not sure what part shop supply is like. Idler arm shouldn’t be too hard either SX1131. Most manufacturers/repackagers will use those numbers, though some have their own. Having said that, I will only use genuine or 555 brand. I had a generic tie rod fail once and put me and future wife in a barrier (thankfully) in the middle of a freeway. They come up regularly especially from the Thai sellers, assuming you can wait. Quality and fitment of some generic stuff can be ‘variable’ PBR don’t appear to have ever listed a rear brakehose. Very easy to get one made to a sample at a brake shop. If you are willing to take a $26 punt (again on eBay) reasonably likely that H1576 will fit. This is the TA22 and onward hose for rear wheel drive Toyota’s

You need 2 of each H1163 is from the hard line to strut bracket. H1164 is from the strut bracket to caliper

I think often the problem with carb swaps is that people usually get a Weber off something else and chuck it on and expect it to just work. Quite possibly it has wear and tear, and the Venturi and jet sizes are all wrong. Toyota put a lot of effort into getting it right with a compromise between emissions, driveability, economy, performance etc. We come along years later and think we can magically transform it. In reality we may improve one thing, but at the expense of everything else. Or just mess it up all together. Not saying don’t do it, but expect some tuning and dyno time to get it really good. And then of course, why stop there!

I have the T18 chassis and body manual, but not for sale. KE7x and TE7x series. Chassis manual No. 36018E Body Manual No. 36019 The 4K manual is reasonably easy to find on ebay if you are patient. The website aeu86.org is Euro based, and have hosted the downloads of the AE86 manuals but they are of course AE86 and 4AG focused http://www.aeu86.org/technical/ae86-manuals/ The Toyota manuals are very good if you can find them. Unlikely you can still buy from Toyota, but worth asking. They were never very expensive to buy as I recall.