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About Mic

  • Birthday 02/18/1987

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    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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  1. Nice to hear it will keep the factory look with period correct wheels.Definitely not many factory look Ke/Te's around anymore unfortunately. Good luck with the build.
  2. That's good to hear. Definitely makes the value go up, not just monetary but sentimental as well knowing the effort to source all the parts. Are you going to add the 'race' ductail and front fender? Or purely keeping it a factory look? Also, are you planning on running the original wheels? I looked over the rest of this thread but I couldn't see any mention about the wheels; original or aftermarket.
  3. It could be worth it depending on how much time, money and skills you have, but for most people it would not be worth it unless you have a mass collection of genuine TE27 gear, which you seem to have. Interesting question, do you have all original trimmings and bits to go in the '27? Or have you had to be reproduction parts on bits you couldn't find? Nonetheless, will be good to see how it progresses. I imagine time is the toughest thing to find at the moment?
  4. Definitely looks like a viable option, considering you have a lot of the other parts! The other one of Yahoo Auctions does appear to be quite similar to your shell (actually I thought it was the same photo you originally put up) but there does appear to be quite a bit of rust in the other shell. Mick.
  5. Ok cool, glad to hear it worked out well. Keen to see some pics when you get a spare moment. Cheers, Mick
  6. Hi Parrot, How did the shell end up turning out? Haven't seen any updates in quite a while. Cheers, Mick.
  7. Hi guys, Well my brother tried to sell his car before he moved overseas permanently, but time is now nearly all but run out (leaves in a weeks' time) and he is so busy organising the big move, so I am selling his car for him. This is an amazingly clean V35 300GT Skyline and has been kept in the garage since he bought it at the beginning of the year (Jan 2012). Judging by what is for sale on Carsales, eBay and Skyline forums, this has to be one of the best value for money V35 Skyline sedan's available in Australia right now. It was serviced in July which inc. general servicing plus new fan belts. Rego is until 11th January, 2013. I am happy to help with interstate transport (at buyers' additional expense), transport costs are pretty reasonable to all states and if someone in WA is keen, to give you an idea of price, the last time I had a car freighted over (in August) it was about the $1000 mark and took approx. 7 working days. Please contact me if you have any questions via PM. This is a great car for P platers, auto-only drivers who want a bit of power or just perfect for someone looking for a nice comfy daily with plenty of poke. Features 2002 Nissan Skyline V35 300GT sedan 3.0 litre V6 (191kw ) iPhone/iPod connectivity (professionally installed by Cronulla Car Sound) Dual climate air conditioning Automatic with tip-tronic Power windows, mirrors and front seats (adjustable rear seats) Bose factory 7 speaker stereo 6 disc stacker FM radio band expanded Xenon headlights Factory floor mats Central locking P-plate legal Limited warranty valid until January 2015 (please PM to discuss) 48,800k's (approx) Overall the condition of paint and interior is great. My brother had an authorised MTA check (I think MTA, could have been NRMA) before he bought the car to make sure it was all good. (The report is available for those who are interested.) The two things that were picked up on the report were the brake rotors had a bit of shudder and tyres were on the wear markers. The dealer put on brand new tyres and had the brake discs machined before it was sold, so any NRMA or MTA check should come up all clear. Price - $10,000ono. If genuinely interested please feel free to call to discuss price. Any low-ballers offering $6k because that's all you have, please don't bother asking if I'll take it because you won't even be recognised. Location - Sutherland Shire, Sydney Contact - PM or if you call before 24th October, please contact zero 4 one 2 677 97 six or zero 42 one 443 7 double zero to discuss. After the 24th Oct please only call zero 42 one 443 7 double zero. More photos can be found here - http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z409/Megz_w/V35%20300GT%20Skyline/ I have tried to be as honest as possible so if you are genuinely interested please call to discuss. Thanks. Cheers Mick
  8. Yeah there are some OK photos. I didn't go mental taking heaps of photos, but just took some nice ones. Cheers Mick
  9. http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z409/Megz_w/Muscle%20Car%20Masters/?start=all Cheers Mick
  10. Yeah I ended up going with my Dad, I have a few photo's of the Toyota's (mainly the AE86's). Will put them up when I get a chance. Good day and perfect weather. A bit disappointed that the Toyota's and that class couldn't really open it up and just did demo laps. Cheers Mick
  11. Google works wonders: http://www.4age.net/tech/4age/index.htm http://www.billzilla.org/4agmods.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4AGE#4A-GE_.2816-valve.29 Cheers Mick
  12. Parrot, there is a big thread on Toymods in the Tech section on spray painting, the last few pages are pretty similar to what you are doing. If you have the time to read through the whole thread (93 + pages), there is some useful info and some of the guys really seem to know what they are talking about (others on there, unfortunately don't). Info on compressors, guns and style etc. Cheers Mick
  13. Hey Tally, No worries. For a N/A 20v to be beating a 4agte, it would need some work done to it. I just like the sound and the response of the BT 20v. Amazing to drive (even in FWD). For the dizzy issue, you can run Coil On Plug (COP) setup. check it out here: http://www.86garage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=10869 Or SamQ's website shows it. This eliminates the annoying dizzy on the back of the head. With the mounts, it will just be a matter of trial and error. I have a feeling you may run into problems as the ke30 mounts would be a tiny bit different to ke20 mounts. But just have a play around when you are putting the motor in, and adjust to suit. Cheers Mick
  14. Ah yeah cool, not too far. Well I guess if you want to keep it legal, just talk to and engineer on the do's and don't's, then go from there. Well if you have the space, take your time and get it right. That is mine, I sold that front section now (personally not my thing), so I will be running standard front with Te27 style lip and flares. Good stuff mate, I look forward to the pics. Cheers Mick
  15. Hey Tally, Thanks for using my old engine bay in three of the pics haha (yellow with 16v 4age and yellow with 16v 4agte). Man I miss that '25! I was only 18 when I had it and struggled to put the motor in with the limited tools and knowledge I had (you can tell with some of the elements of that engine bay), but I loved that car. Anyway, depends on what motor you want. In my opinion, I would tend to lean towards a BT 20v if you are keeping N/A, but would go 16v if you are thinking about going turbo down the track. For my '25, I am going to go BT 20v. Straight out of the box the 20v has plenty of power and sounds amazing. I am driving a Ae9X seca ultima with a BT 20v and the the motor screams when the throttles open right up. As well as being able to easily source the RWD water piping kit for the 20v's and being able to run the standard computer (with COP setup modification), i'd say it would be the better choice. Plus it's a newer motor. With the mounts I had, they fit the 16v pretty well and it didn't hit the firewall, but when we tried to put a 20v in a ke20 with the same mounts, it hit due to the head being a tiny bit longer. So if the mounts are for a 16v, you may need to sit the motor a bit more forward or give the firewall a bit of a love-tap. Good luck with it. Cheers Mick
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