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Everything posted by parrot

  1. Tappets?......... You could check the cam bearing caps are fitted in sequence and torqued to spec. Have you shimmed the cams correctly? Do you know the history of the engine? The cam caps are supposedly specific to each individual head. Not swapped from another head? A mate had a similar noise which drove him insane......
  2. I stripped my calipers, cleaned them up on the wire wheel and rebuilt them. Looked amazing..... well for a few weeks till they started to surface rust. Moral of story, if you don’t paint them, clear coat them. To paint them properly, you need them dismantled fully, otherwise they look crap. The decision is yours
  3. Unless you are racing it, don't bother. Overhaul the calipers and master cylinder if you are keen, but if it is stopping in a straight line I wouldn't bother with that either. New metal pads, new discs and a proper bleeding, and it should stop on a 10 cent piece.
  4. Clearly not something you can pull apart and refurbish yourself. I would seriously consider taking it somewhere for specialist repair such as http://www.howardinstruments.com.au/
  5. Hopefully that’s what you need. If there is something else, let me know and I’ll have another look
  6. I can’t say I’ve ever been there. Maybe once or twice. But god I hate what faceplant has done to forums. What I don’t understand though is why forum activity has dropped away in the face of Facebook. From an info perspective, the quality of discussion is largely laughable. The ability to contribute a build thread seems non existant. For selling it works well, but otherwise it’s just a place to talk shit that wouldn’t be tolerated on a half decent forum.
  7. Sometimes they will respond to a little TLC. But that winding looks pretty cactus doesn’t it
  8. Golden boy son on L plates and I had a leisurely drive around Melbourne’s outer east including a run up Mt Dandenong for an introduction to windy narrow roads, post cricket training today. He is a self taught cricket bat repair wiz , and does some amazing work. Downside number 1 is my garage and everything in it is permanently covered in shavings and saw dust. Not conducive to working on cars..... Downside number two is whenever I go to Bunnings, he invariably needs yet another softback sanding pad, glue or power tool of some description. Not sure how much profit he makes, but of course dad is a ready supply of funds for consumables. Currently he is thinking about an industrial band saw for handle repairs, and as he finishes school this year will lose access to the woodwork room. So we found ourselves at Sydney Tools and Total tools on the way home. A first time for me and I had a ball perusing the aisles and came out with a mini Japanese made screwdriver for confined spaces, and a couple of ratchet flex spanners. Not sure of the quality of the latter, but one day they will prove themselves indispensable on an under dash, or deep in engine bay task. Of course I launched yet again into the joys of Saturday mornings in the 70’s spent with my dad wandering around W L Ryan and Co in Elizabeth St Melbourne which was a wonderland of tools, assorted automotive electrical products and stuff you could never have imagined existed to fix machinery. “Yes dad, you’ve told me this story before”. God I miss that place. Later when I was older, I got into the habit of building my toolbox at Ryan’s by buying one tool with each pay. I think we will check the industrial auctions for a bandsaw, but meanwhile my tool collection continues to grow. And one day that 12 mm ratchet flex spanner will save the day
  9. Do you have a set of KE2x springs on the car? You can always take those to a springworks locally and get them reset. They could even add a leaf if required. Just talk to them about what you are trying to achieve. If KE30 springs fit, I doubt they are much different in height or rate, plus they are pushing 45 years of age Edit: And you will need to get the front eye made smaller anyway
  10. Surely simpler to have a spring works alter the front eye rather than sleeving What are you trying to achieve by fitting KE30 springs?
  11. Early cars to Aug 72 have a smaller front body mounting point, and the eye in the spring is correspondingly smaller
  12. If you want broccoli and beetroot, why not just go to the supermarket and buy some. They even have beetroot in tins! Seriously though, do you have to deal direct with the big two, and are they as bad as you hear?
  13. I can’t answer if ke36 will fit, you will need to do some measurements. But I have KE26 rear springs in mine currently which bolted straight in. Do be aware that your early KE25 has small front eyelets where they mount, so the later large eyelet springs won’t fit, unless you get a spring works to alter them
  14. If you get adept at searching on Yahoo japan, you can find quite a lot of nice wheels in whatever size you want. Of course, in period everything was 13 inch. Man important consideration of course will be what PCD you currently have. I can’t recall but think you went to something different than 4 x 110 or 114.3? often they are also narrow, as unless from a period racing car, anything much wider than 6 or 6 1/2 would be unusual at the time. If you have a bucket of money, You can always get some original or remanufactured Tosco style wheels. Ive picked up a set of period Enkei’s in 13 x6 for the te27 and some weds albinos in 14 x 6 for the AE86, the latter almost new and ridiculously cheap both from yahoo using an Aust broker who ship in containers. Of course everyone’s preference differs, but if you do go wide, the issue of flares will have to be faced. Rolling the guard lips may help if you need a little room
  15. And here’s another. The ford site coming up with some good stuff
  16. Here’s a nice photo showing an RS2000 about to be passed by a KE20 at Bathurst 1976. I think it’s the Toepfer/Arnel car that placed 32nd
  17. Hi Keith Don't forget it is a small light car and just doesn't need a footprint that big. All you are doing is adding unsprung weight. 225's are pretty wide. You would also need to consider the load on the front stub axles and those little bearings with the offset load. I certainly wouldn't advocate spacers either. But if appearance is more important, well of course its up to you. I've mentioned regarding the rear guards above, the front guards on a levin are also cut substantially higher. Of course if you are prepared to rebuild your arches properly, then it's unlikely you will have rubbing issues, but its hellish driving around in something that continually catches on anything but a billiard table
  18. You either need to fit flares after major surgery on the rear guards, or get the diff narrowed. Fuel tanks are the same
  19. I’m also of the view they are too big, and with modern tyres unnecessary. Having said that, I ran 225’s on 7’s on a TA22 years back and had no end of grief with the rear guard lip fouling under load and the fronts on lock. Made the car not fun to drive. Fitting flares is a major exercise of fabrication on the rear, and a key difference between KE25 and a TE27 levin is the construction of the rear wheel tub and outer skin. I don’t see how you can do it otherwise, unless you shorten the diff housing or change to significantly different offset rims
  20. I wouldn’t have thought there was a need to fiddle with camber for the sort of work the car gets used for. I would wonder if he had the specifications in his computer to know where to set toe in and castor at, and to check camber is within spec. I remember sometime back someone being told their car was too old to appear in the system. Ill have specs in a Toyota manual if you need them.
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