parrot

The for sale section was removed some time ago. I understand it was creating numerous issues for the moderators and wasn’t worth perservering with. As you will have seen, facebook is swamped with scammers. We don’t need that here

Float level? Have you checked the diaphragm? Back in the day we would switch the spring to the other side of the diaphagm so the secondary was always open.

I wouldn't be able to pass that tree without climbing to the top

These are from the KE18 parts book and should tell you what you have/is missing/how to put it back together.

I've got three or four heater taps in various states of disrepair, the idea being the same as you. But i've never seen one apart before. Very interesting. I missed out on a NOS one about 5 years ago, and have never seen another. Pete recommended a Tru flow heater tap TFT4008. He said he fits it under the air cleaner. They vary from $25 to $60 (repco). Anyway its an option. I had the idea of stroking my original K-B block to keep the numbers, by putting a 3K crank in it. On assembly I discovered that's a no no, as the 3K block is actually a few mm higher, confirmed in a booklet I got from Japan. My K block was pretty corroded internally, and the spare 3K block i had was quite a bit better so probably a blessing in disguise. Although of course that needed to be prepared so more $$

The "coolant bypass valve" is the heater tap. I'm spending a lot of time trying to find one that works, though Peter Robinson put me onto an aftermarket option that fits elsewhere. I still want an original one though.

Well that was a bad mistake, considering I owned 3 Datsun 1600's in the mid 80's!

I hate A.I. What A.I.can't do is context. Overhead cam engines were never a consideration at the time in this class of vehicle. Unless you could stump up three times as much for an alfa, and you can't consider a Ford twin cam as mainstream. I think the first volume overhead cam engine cam with the pinto?

How can someone not get excited looking at that engine.

Absolutely replace. This guy is good. https://www.ebay.com.au/str/zaccsbearings?_trkparms=folent%3Azaccsbearings|folenttp%3A1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l74602

You need to determine how much power you reasonably expect, and what you are going to do with the car. There are tables with widths of various Toyota rear ends, but there is no reason why you need to stick with Toyota. I think you will find references to skyline diffs as well, though I don't know if that's a good thing. Shortening a diff is not as simple as you might think either. And it will need conversion to leaf springs, plus you will want a panhard rod. And you will need disc brakes. The car will clearly need engineering. And you really should look for something with an LSD or ability to swap an LSD in. As Altezzaclub mentions you also need to try to minimise unnecessary weight. Is a T series 6.7 inch centre / axles going to cope with what you will throw at it? What width wheels/tyres are you planning to use. Will you be able to fit them under the car? Probably anything with a larger diff centre will be significantly wider than a Ke55. Needs to be factored into overall width. And a larger tyre footprint will place additional load on the centre & axles. So it's complicated. If I was you, I would consider above, then go into a diff place and tell them what you want, and see what they can build for you off the shelf. Probably cheaper than sourcing a differential unit yourself and converting it. Then go back to your engineer and see what they are willing to sign off.

You don't want any audible clicking. But you want slight movement. It's hard to describe but I think you will know when you have it right. No movement, bad. Clicking - bad. fractional side movement - good.

I had to look up what a 2ZZGE & GT2871R were. Shows you my brain stopped in about 1994. It seems a promising bit of kit. We can't hang onto 2TG's/18RG's/4AGE's for ever although clearly I am. But perhaps I'm older than you. 10 years from now everyone will be talking ZZ's I expect.

There's a BEAMS AE86 page on facebook. A guy on there, Glenn Booth probably knows more about 3SGE's than anyone on the planet. He's in Melbourne but may have an idea on how to source what you are after. He races an RA45 with a highly modified BEAMs

Contact Craig at https://justjdmimports.com/ and see what he has on the shelf. I've not dealt with him personally, but a number of friends have over many years. And he is in Brisbane. Many general parts like bolts can still be bought cheaply from Toyota. Look up your model here: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q_G_1980_TOYOTA_COROLLA_KE55.html if you signup you will also get the part diagrams. Then order via: https://en.impex-jp.com/ They are better than Amayama in my experience, but can only source parts in Japan. Toyota bolts are very cheap. Or take a sample to your local bolt shop. They will be able to supply an appropriate replacement. And most important of all, buy a torque wrench and Toyota manual for your car so you don't overtighten things.

Not a Corolla, but my second car was a TA22. It had a radio, heater, carpet, bucket seats, a crossflow engine, 5 speed manual, rear window demister. My best mates Kingswood from the same period had a bench seat, vinyl floor coverings and three on the tree. It did have a radio at least.

I've done an early 4AGE into both an AE82 and AE86 with 4AC's. Notwithstanding the fact that the AE92 has later sensors with different plugs, I would suggest swapping over the dash, engine bay charge and engine loom entirely. Easier to adapt minor components to the newer loom.

Are you still alive?

It's an easy job at home that takes very little time, but has the capacity to cause serious injury or damage if you don't do it right. There will be you tube videos that show you the right way, and doubtless others demonstrating what can go wrong. Basically you need to remove the nut at the top of the strut piston. This will likely be a nylock nut and difficult to remove as the strut piston will turn as the nut turns. The spring tension is your friend here and may stop this. If not, hold the piston in a pair of multigrips after placing some rubber sheet in the jaws to protect the piston. Then use a socket to remove the nut, BUT NOT ALL THE WAY. Be very careful if using a rattle gun that you don't go too far. Once the nylock plastic threads are undone, put the spring compressors on and compress them until the upper spring seat is loose. Only then remove the nut all the way. Then it all comes apart. Carefully remove the spring compressors. If you get it wrong, there is significant spring tension that will be released shooting the strut top and upper spring seat across the garage floor, hopefully not up into your face, or the side of your car. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE the force stored in the compressed spring. What ever you do, ensure the strut top is pointing away from you and anything you don't want smashed, just in case you get it wrong. Tighten & loosen the spring compressors evenly.

We just used to cut holes in the door cards and parcel shelf. Wouldn't do it now. You can make another parcel shelf out of thicker masonite (if that still exists) or at least something more solid. will improve the sound you get.

Once upon a time you could buy radio cassettes at a standard size to fit in there. Then in the late 80's CD players took over. If you want anything period, probably best bet is FB marketplace. The radio's will be AM/FM not DAB. Even today places like Supercheap still sell single DIN replacements but they are a bit neon for my liking, but will have bluetooth connectivity and digital radios.

So cleared to drive last Wednesday and first trip was to the engine machinist! Then the pie shop. Now to wait for his assessment of the $1.50 block. Have ordered another set of crankshaft mains bolts through Impex along with various other things. I'm also rebuilding the front struts with the KE55/70 brake conversion so various bits and bobs in the meantime. One thing, I wasn't particularly impressed with the variable size ring compressor I had. So after watching Banjo's linked post about piston ring gapping I've elected to get a tapered one size 75mm tool.

Have spent the afternoon pulling out the 3K block from it's hidy hole and getting it ready to be dipped. Everything else in the motor has been balanced etc, and realistically the only reason for keeping the block was for originality. Happily the 3K block looks reasonably good as far as the water jacket is concerned. I'm tempted to run Banjo's modification but slightly more fiddly with the bigport head as it doesn't have the bolt on plate. I know I could get the machine shop to tap some hoes to retrofit the plate, but I might have a think about that. Coolant, yearly drains and dosing with thermocure evaporust may do the trick. Realistically the car isn't going to do many kms each year. There is a light score in No. 4 bore so I'll see what the machinist thinks we should bore it to. Haven't been able to drive for the last 3 mths due to a health issue, but hoping to get clearance for that on Wednesday which will make things much easier. I'm a bit over buses and trains.

So, I thought I would stroke my existing K motor in the KE15 by installing a 3K crank. The original motor failed due to serious blocking of the water jacket between cylinder 3 & 4. Picked up a grotty 3K bottom end for $1.50 on eBay a while back to donate the crank. Sent the various bits off to the machine shop for tanking/overhaul/boring to 40 thou and balancing etc. The block came back still seriously blocked solid, so I spent hours with various implements chipping out the rust and scale through the waterways and core plug holes, then had it ultrasonically cleaned. The space between the cylinders still wasn’t great but that’s how they are. As others have said, the water flow suffers at the back of the engine. So how did I get on? Not good! I’ve done some research and have a Japanese booklet that details the changes made when they went from the Ke10/15/16 to the KE11/17/18. As you can see they not only increased the stroke, but the block is taller by 2.5mm……. So looks like I’ll have to get the 3K block out and start over with that.

Probably not. The issue is the length of the axle varies depending on the width of the rear end. For example, if I put a AE86 axle into a TE27 housing, it will be sticking a few centimetres out from the end as the TE27 is a narrower car and therefore narrower housing. Speak to Craig. I’m confident he will be able to give you an answer to that. He’s been in the business a long time.