parrot

I have to admit that was my first thought, but there are no death notices! I checked....

Are they earthed? Presumably if they were working, and you have confirmed power to the light, it has to be an earth issue. Make sure there is no corrosion in the actual fitting the bulb fits into

Check the low tension circuit carefully. No breaks, and not shorting

Well I have a good home for a KE1x working heater tap, and a KE20 centre dash drop down map light 🙂

The for sale section was removed some time ago. I understand it was creating numerous issues for the moderators and wasn’t worth perservering with. As you will have seen, facebook is swamped with scammers. We don’t need that here

Float level? Have you checked the diaphragm? Back in the day we would switch the spring to the other side of the diaphagm so the secondary was always open.

I wouldn't be able to pass that tree without climbing to the top

These are from the KE18 parts book and should tell you what you have/is missing/how to put it back together.

I've got three or four heater taps in various states of disrepair, the idea being the same as you. But i've never seen one apart before. Very interesting. I missed out on a NOS one about 5 years ago, and have never seen another. Pete recommended a Tru flow heater tap TFT4008. He said he fits it under the air cleaner. They vary from $25 to $60 (repco). Anyway its an option. I had the idea of stroking my original K-B block to keep the numbers, by putting a 3K crank in it. On assembly I discovered that's a no no, as the 3K block is actually a few mm higher, confirmed in a booklet I got from Japan. My K block was pretty corroded internally, and the spare 3K block i had was quite a bit better so probably a blessing in disguise. Although of course that needed to be prepared so more $$

The "coolant bypass valve" is the heater tap. I'm spending a lot of time trying to find one that works, though Peter Robinson put me onto an aftermarket option that fits elsewhere. I still want an original one though.

Well that was a bad mistake, considering I owned 3 Datsun 1600's in the mid 80's!

I hate A.I. What A.I.can't do is context. Overhead cam engines were never a consideration at the time in this class of vehicle. Unless you could stump up three times as much for an alfa, and you can't consider a Ford twin cam as mainstream. I think the first volume overhead cam engine cam with the pinto?

How can someone not get excited looking at that engine.

Absolutely replace. This guy is good. https://www.ebay.com.au/str/zaccsbearings?_trkparms=folent%3Azaccsbearings|folenttp%3A1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l74602

You need to determine how much power you reasonably expect, and what you are going to do with the car. There are tables with widths of various Toyota rear ends, but there is no reason why you need to stick with Toyota. I think you will find references to skyline diffs as well, though I don't know if that's a good thing. Shortening a diff is not as simple as you might think either. And it will need conversion to leaf springs, plus you will want a panhard rod. And you will need disc brakes. The car will clearly need engineering. And you really should look for something with an LSD or ability to swap an LSD in. As Altezzaclub mentions you also need to try to minimise unnecessary weight. Is a T series 6.7 inch centre / axles going to cope with what you will throw at it? What width wheels/tyres are you planning to use. Will you be able to fit them under the car? Probably anything with a larger diff centre will be significantly wider than a Ke55. Needs to be factored into overall width. And a larger tyre footprint will place additional load on the centre & axles. So it's complicated. If I was you, I would consider above, then go into a diff place and tell them what you want, and see what they can build for you off the shelf. Probably cheaper than sourcing a differential unit yourself and converting it. Then go back to your engineer and see what they are willing to sign off.

You don't want any audible clicking. But you want slight movement. It's hard to describe but I think you will know when you have it right. No movement, bad. Clicking - bad. fractional side movement - good.

I had to look up what a 2ZZGE & GT2871R were. Shows you my brain stopped in about 1994. It seems a promising bit of kit. We can't hang onto 2TG's/18RG's/4AGE's for ever although clearly I am. But perhaps I'm older than you. 10 years from now everyone will be talking ZZ's I expect.

There's a BEAMS AE86 page on facebook. A guy on there, Glenn Booth probably knows more about 3SGE's than anyone on the planet. He's in Melbourne but may have an idea on how to source what you are after. He races an RA45 with a highly modified BEAMs

Contact Craig at https://justjdmimports.com/ and see what he has on the shelf. I've not dealt with him personally, but a number of friends have over many years. And he is in Brisbane. Many general parts like bolts can still be bought cheaply from Toyota. Look up your model here: https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q_G_1980_TOYOTA_COROLLA_KE55.html if you signup you will also get the part diagrams. Then order via: https://en.impex-jp.com/ They are better than Amayama in my experience, but can only source parts in Japan. Toyota bolts are very cheap. Or take a sample to your local bolt shop. They will be able to supply an appropriate replacement. And most important of all, buy a torque wrench and Toyota manual for your car so you don't overtighten things.

Not a Corolla, but my second car was a TA22. It had a radio, heater, carpet, bucket seats, a crossflow engine, 5 speed manual, rear window demister. My best mates Kingswood from the same period had a bench seat, vinyl floor coverings and three on the tree. It did have a radio at least.

I've done an early 4AGE into both an AE82 and AE86 with 4AC's. Notwithstanding the fact that the AE92 has later sensors with different plugs, I would suggest swapping over the dash, engine bay charge and engine loom entirely. Easier to adapt minor components to the newer loom.

Are you still alive?

It's an easy job at home that takes very little time, but has the capacity to cause serious injury or damage if you don't do it right. There will be you tube videos that show you the right way, and doubtless others demonstrating what can go wrong. Basically you need to remove the nut at the top of the strut piston. This will likely be a nylock nut and difficult to remove as the strut piston will turn as the nut turns. The spring tension is your friend here and may stop this. If not, hold the piston in a pair of multigrips after placing some rubber sheet in the jaws to protect the piston. Then use a socket to remove the nut, BUT NOT ALL THE WAY. Be very careful if using a rattle gun that you don't go too far. Once the nylock plastic threads are undone, put the spring compressors on and compress them until the upper spring seat is loose. Only then remove the nut all the way. Then it all comes apart. Carefully remove the spring compressors. If you get it wrong, there is significant spring tension that will be released shooting the strut top and upper spring seat across the garage floor, hopefully not up into your face, or the side of your car. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE the force stored in the compressed spring. What ever you do, ensure the strut top is pointing away from you and anything you don't want smashed, just in case you get it wrong. Tighten & loosen the spring compressors evenly.

We just used to cut holes in the door cards and parcel shelf. Wouldn't do it now. You can make another parcel shelf out of thicker masonite (if that still exists) or at least something more solid. will improve the sound you get.

Once upon a time you could buy radio cassettes at a standard size to fit in there. Then in the late 80's CD players took over. If you want anything period, probably best bet is FB marketplace. The radio's will be AM/FM not DAB. Even today places like Supercheap still sell single DIN replacements but they are a bit neon for my liking, but will have bluetooth connectivity and digital radios.