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Everything posted by parrot

  1. Toyodiy is very good but as you know doesn’t cover all older models. You can’t beat a genuine part book I have one covering KE35 and happy to help as long as you don’t want 100 numbers. And don’t ask me to copy it as it’s too big and awkward
  2. You are over thinking it. 1 and 3 depend on which thermostat you use, but typically starts opening at 80 degrees Celsius and aims for a working temp of 82 degrees. High temp type is 88 degrees 2 is irrelevant and will depend on radiator cap type and condition 4 isn’t really relevant unless doing competition work or towing 6 needs to be not too high or the needle and seat won’t shut off from memory < 4psi 7 depends on compression ratio in your market/ modifications you may have made
  3. My recollection is that you can use a TA22 swaybar which is obviously designed for a T engine. Can’t comment on width. I have a TE27 bar but haven’t compared it to a KE25 bar. Should be able to pick up a standard TA22 bar easily and cheaply. Try the Aus 1st gen Celica forum on FB
  4. Last login 2 years ago. Suggest you call the phone number in the ad
  5. I would take the reduction starter if you are happy to post to Melb.
  6. Front disc brakes were available in some markets but I don't think in the US. As long as you don't mind paying postage, you should be able to source the relevant parts easily. there is a write up in the wiki. You will find the wiki at the top left of the main page in the blue bar. It's also easier to fit larger discs from later corolla's which is also in the write up. Contemporary road test reports when the cars originally came out were critical of the brakes as barely sufficient
  7. Have just finished reading part 1, which I had missed entirely. There’s some good stuff in there, with a younger Steve. Hopefully it will sort itself out. As I’ve got older, I have become more intolerant, and would probably just say f#%* it. But clearly you have had some good times together. Hope you are doing ok
  8. Latest new arrival in the parrot shed, are gloves. I've resisted these for many years, I mean, how stupid are they. Can't feel anything, tools will slip, it's just a bit of oil with potentially dangerous contaminants etc. Well of course they are none of those things. Good feel, no cuts and nicks, and toasty warm. And when I had finished removing the front end, I was able to go in and cook dinner for the family without even washing my hands. I did wash my hands, but I did think twice about whether or not to bother. I'm a convert, but not going for those disposable rubber ones. Feedback on the cheapo Daytona jacks. One is a bit niggly with a touchy bleed valve that doesn't like to stay tight, so may have to take that back for a replacement.
  9. I’m literally pulling one out right now snd swapping the TE27 one in. Other than coming in for a cuppa. It would be hellishly expensive to post. Sure yours can’t just be welded? Damage can’t be too bad, they are usually covered in oil.
  10. it's been discussed at length. You will just have to search for it
  11. Your out of my range now. Nothing bolt in is going to handle that. Whatever you choose is going to be custom
  12. Not mine and old but presumbly accurate. http://members.iinet.com.au/~stepho/diff.htm#axlesize If you plan to put it in a KE25 it will require substantial cutting down and modification for leaf springs My TE27 doesn't have drums fitted currently so can't accurately measure for you, but someone I trust has posted up that a KE25 is 1320mm and from memory they are the same. I believe he then went to the substantial effort of getting a T series cut down properly and engineered here in Australia and it had to be specially offset for some technical reason I didn't understand. I sourced a couple of TE27 housings from Japan before prices went stupid, but may still be a sensible option if you can find one on yahoo japan. Will save you a lot if trouble, and probably easier to convert that to discs, than fitting a disc brake housing into KE25
  13. Note I’ve measured to the centre of the factory hole in the centre of the tunnel reinforcement
  14. I answered this a while back when I had both models, but the KE25 is gone now I’ve attached photos from a TE27 that should enable you to check definitively
  15. I was going to see if I could get by with just the pair, but why make it hard for myself. I happened to buy the first two on a ‘trade day’, so got $50 of next purchase. So another pair for $179! Next thing is to sort out some long span shelving. I’d hoped to go with a two post hoist, but just not enough room unfortunately.
  16. Got these hydraulic wheel jacks from Sydney tools and they are brilliant for moving the cars around in the shed. I was going to try and get away with a pair but will go back and get two more I think. $229 a pair. They actually work by squeezing the tyre up like a pimple. Pretty good, as long as they don’t break, but Corolla’s don’t weigh much.
  17. Wow bargain! And a very nice wheel
  18. Just tried downloading some of these and got an error message? Any one know why??
  19. Things like this kill people if not properly made. I’m sorry, but there it is
  20. Is it worth it? It depends on what you plan on using the car for. If it’s a street car I would say no it isn’t. You will probably turn it into a poor handling pig that you hate. if you plan on it being a competition car and spend some time sorting it properly, maybe. Assuming it’s a daily driver street car, leave the strut tops alone and put some uprated, lowered variable rate springs and improved dampers in it and it will be great
  21. It’s fine to use aftermarket, but you are going to need to measure accurately to decide which oversize bearing you need, and also consider whether your crankshaft needs resizing. And they are bearings, not bearing caps
  22. Probably the rotor also. Was the motor previously running in this configuration, or did you stick some random distributor or cap onto it. You may quickly rack up the spending potentially unnecessarily.
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