Hiro Protagonist

Donor
  • Content count

    2,117
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Hiro Protagonist last won the day on December 18 2017

Hiro Protagonist had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

About Hiro Protagonist

  • Rank
    World's Greatest Sword Fighter
  • Birthday 02/03/1984

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW
  • Real Name
    Ian

Recent Profile Visitors

38,389,728 profile views
  1. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    FWD A-series engines (4AGE, 4AFE, 7AFE etc) have the thermostat on the bottom radiator hose to control the reentry of coolant from the radiator back in to the engine.
  2. 7A powered AE82

    I think he was making a joke :P
  3. DeLorean Model DMC-12

    Not questioning your judgement or your eyesight, but being in an underground apartment complex is it possible that it was just a normal brushed stainless finish and the poor lighting gave it the bronze effect? Having photographed car shows in underground carparks before, the lighting is normally terrible for white-balance and correct colour matching... I've personally seen a couple of DMC-12s, there's one up at the Lost in the 50s car museum in Newcastle as well as the Gosford Classic Car Museum, both are LHD models though from memory and both are the normal stainless finish.
  4. SA63 with 4S-FE

    Do you know if the gearbox came with the engine or if it is the original Celica box?
  5. Don't think the idle speed is meant to be manually adjusted via the screw on a 7AFE.
  6. Rolla Attention

    Owning a 90s FWD Toyota does make me practically invisible to the cops even with an almost certainly illegal exhaust, lowered, 17s, personalised plates, and spotties in my front grille (an actual factory option, just only in Europe) Been driving for almost 15 years and I've only ever been pulled over for an RBT (as in by a cop driving around) once, and that was because I chucked a u-ey outside a pub (was picking people up). Numerous roadside booze-bus ones though (and passed all with flying colours, because I'm a good boy) but also driven past plenty too without being waved in. Car has never been searched, not even so much as had the bonnet lifted or ride-height checked.
  7. If it goes away for good, then yes it was most likely the cause :P If not, them time to keep ticking things off the list. I do notice a little flat-spot just off idle in my 7A, the old shell was worse though and could possibly be a stretched throttle cable, check to see if the butterfly moves straight away when you press the pedal or if there is a slight delay from a loose cable (you do need _some_ slack there, but not much).
  8. Rolla Attention

    Another possibility is that the plates have been flagged for whatever reason (noise complaint, used to be owned by a hoon etc etc) so the cops automatically pull it over whenever they see it.
  9. The older systems use the wax-pellet valve (or a bi-metallic strip), newer ones went to a thermoswitch sender and a rotary valve. The newer valves also control all the idle-up functions too so can adjust for air-con, power-steering, electrical loads etc etc, they also don't tend to have an idle adjustment screw (unlike the old "dumb" systems). They get called different things depending on the engine (cold-idle valve, aux air valve, idle-speed control valve etc) but they all do the same job - open up an additional passage through the throttle to let extra air in to the engine when the throttle blade is shut. Another thing is that maybe we have different definitions of "hunting" or "surging" idle speeds. To me, any idle speed that doesn't stay stabilise is "hunting", even if it stays at a particular rpm for several seconds.
  10. Help please

    How much did they charge to do the seal? I probably should have done mine when I did the CVs (just because I had free access) but didn't have the time to order in new seals, it's a relatively simple job.
  11. The easiest way to determine if it is an idle-valve issue and not a vacuum leak is to take the intake pipe off to expose the throttle body, and then stick your finger over the hole for the bypass whilst the engine is warm and idling. If the idle stops surging then the issue is in the ISCV (and either a faulty valve, sensor or air bubble), if it continues then the issue is a vacuum leak downstream of the throttle (or with the MAP sensor or TPS).
  12. For a 4AGE, there is no temp sender for the cold idle - it is literally a wax-pellet valve like the thermostat which opens and closes a bypass passage in the throttle body to up the idle. I personally have fixed a hunting warm-idle problem in a 4AGE (a bigport in my wife's old AE82 Twincam) TWICE purely by bleeding the cooling system AND NOTHING ELSE. Over the years of being on forums and Facebook I have seen countless other times when a hunting or high idle problem for those engines has been fixed by bleeding the cooling system (and it is really noticeable on 4AGEs due to the big difference between cold and warm idle speeds). Remember too that an air pocket might be stationary when the engine is off, but when it is running and coolant is being pumped around things get stirred up, which can result in intermittent contact between the coolant and the wax-pellet/sender/whatever. Usually it is a persistent high-idle that doesn't drop when the engine gets warm (also symptomatic of the wax-pellet valve dying of old age and being stuck permanently open, like a dead thermostat) but it can cause surging if it is borderline. It is actually a slightly different cause compared to a vacuum leak one (which is extra air causing the idle speed to rise about the ECU's preset limit causing it to pull fuel out) but can be hard to differentiate if you don't know exactly what to look for. Yes, other issues such as a vacuum leak or faulty sender/valve can also cause similar symptoms (and I'm not discounting any of them in the slightest), but the air-bubble trapped in the throttle body causing inconsistent/high idles is something that is common across most of the transverse A-series Toyota engines (moreso in MR2s but Twinkies/SXs do suffer it too), and it is almost always suggested as the first answer because it is free, easy, doesn't require any disassembly, and is very common especially when people also have coolant leaks or have recently replaced a radiator/thermostat/hose/etc and introduced air in to the system (in my wife's case it was both - air was in the system after fixing a leaking water outlet on the end of the head and replacing a heater hose that had burst).
  13. For a 4AGE, there is no temp sender for the cold idle - it is literally a wax-pellet valve like the thermostat which opens and closes a bypass passage in the throttle body to up the idle. I personally have fixed a hunting warm-idle problem in a 4AGE (a bigport in my wife's old AE82 Twincam) TWICE purely by bleeding the cooling system AND NOTHING ELSE. Over the years of being on forums and Facebook I have seen countless other times when a hunting or high idle problem for those engines has been fixed by bleeding the cooling system (and it is really noticeable on 4AGEs due to the big difference between cold and warm idle speeds). Remember too that an air pocket might be stationary when the engine is off, but when it is running and coolant is being pumped around things get stirred up, which can result in intermittent contact between the coolant and the wax-pellet/sender/whatever. Usually it is a persistent high-idle that doesn't drop when the engine gets warm (also symptomatic of the wax-pellet valve dying of old age and being stuck permanently open, like a dead thermostat) but it can cause surging if it is borderline. It is actually a slightly different cause compared to a vacuum leak one (which is extra air causing the idle speed to rise about the ECU's preset limit causing it to pull fuel out) but can be hard to differentiate if you don't know exactly what to look for. Yes, other issues such as a vacuum leak or faulty sender/valve can also cause similar symptoms (and I'm not discounting any of them in the slightest), but the air-bubble trapped in the throttle body causing inconsistent/high idles is something that is common across most of the transverse A-series Toyota engines (moreso in MR2s but Twinkies/SXs do suffer it too), and it is almost always suggested as the first answer because it is free, easy, doesn't require any disassembly, and is very common especially when people also have coolant leaks or have recently replaced a radiator/thermostat/hose/etc and introduced air in to the system (in my wife's case it was both - air was in the system after fixing a leaking water outlet on the end of the head and replacing a heater hose that had burst).
  14. Help please

    One of the reasons my old one lasted so long is that I had a complete history on it, my old man owned it from new back in '97.
  15. swap 4AFC engine only (from auto car) into 4AFC manual?

    You mean clutch release bearing. FWDs don't have spigot bearings.