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Hiro Protagonist

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Hiro Protagonist last won the day on March 7 2019

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About Hiro Protagonist

  • Birthday 02/03/1984

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    Newcastle, NSW
  • Real Name
    Ian

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  1. So I went and did a thing the other day. Barring a KE10, we have now completed ownership of every single odd-numbered Corolla generation (3, 5, 7, 11 and now finally 9), and in some ways the fact that my pending existence caused my mother to have to sell her KE10 is kinda poetic (and ironic). So, meet Marvin - both after Marvin the Paranoid Android from HHGTTG (the movie remake unfortunately, since the BBC miniseries version was silver rather than white), and Lee Marvin from the classic Western musical Paint Your Wagon (I was just stretching for any name connected to the word "wagon" really). Pertinent details 2006 Ascent wagon 218k Manual (I am pathologically unable to buy an auto if manual is a viable option) All 3 cupholder dividers present and correct (apparently a minor miracle) Boot room for days Yes it will be getting some (minor) modifications No I won't be putting the 2ZZ in to it instead of the 102 Yes I still have the 102 No it isn't finished yet. by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]Ian Rigby[/url], on Flickr
  2. Depends on where it was built. Aus-built Corollas had almost no pre-wiring for any accessory that wasn't standard/optional here (and even then not even the options).
  3. So in my continuing trend of spending money on the wife's car and procrastinating in actually getting my project finished (hell, it's barely out of the "started" phase really)... K&N Typhoon SRI, mostly for noise (and it is noticeable when you load it up but not much just at idle or crawling around the suburbs) but there will be a slight performance increase, and unlike most SRIs at least it actually has a heatshield to try and minimise the amount of hot air drawn in (it still uses the snorkel feed that ran to the standard airbox) Meant to be 100% bolt-in but due to the 11th-gen Corollas having a vacuum surge tank on the end of the head which the 10th-gen didn't (kit was designed for the 10th gen, but a lot of the drivetrain/chassis is the same between them) it meant I couldn't use the brace from the head to the underside of the intake pipe, so it's currently just resting against the seal on the heatshield - should be fine though.
  4. Instead of pulling up to a bowser you'd park over a hatch in the ground, old battery pack gets removed and new battery pack gets installed (probably with some kind of hotel power lead so nothing cuts out), all in a matter of minutes. The old pack then gets moved to a charging rack underground in the servo (where the tanks used to be, also nice and cool down there which will help with bulk charging). The hard bit is getting manufacturers to agree to an industry standard (or at least a standard range) so you don't have to accommodate 50 million different combinations of battery and interface. That, and getting users and rechargers to agree on ownership and liability of the batteries themselves (kinda like the gas bottles), separate from the car itself.
  5. There's probably some invisible unknown factor that most of us would never be able to work out unless we worked in the engineering department of a manufacturer. Who knows, maybe on some cars 4x100 is fine but for a slightly heavier/more powerful car the safety factor dips below 10 (or some other absurdly conservative factor that they keep above for legal reasons) and have to go for an extra stud. Just don't look at 60s/70s French cars with only 3-stud wheels - and I don't only mean dinky little 2CVs either, the V6 Alpine A310s were 3-stud too...
  6. My theory is that they work on wheel bearing/driveshaft design first, and the size of those then drives the size of the hub and then the size of the PCD. And several of them being similar comes down to metric equivalents of imperial diameters (ie 100 is 4", 108 is 4.25", 114.3 is 4.5"), and some of them are then rounded further to the nearest 5/10mm or were a metric design to begin with (like 110)
  7. No FWD Corolla is 4x114.3 - E80 onwards (not including AE85/AE86) were all FWD up until the early 2000s, at which point some markets moved to 5x100 (and a couple of years later some others moved to 5x114.3)
  8. Assuming a ~6-7" width (given the tyre size), that's well in to FWD-offset territory. Not many FWDs ran 4x114.3, and nothing really in Toyota-world.
  9. I believe the solenoids are different between 1ZZ and 2ZZ (part numbers are definitely different, but not by much), although some places out there on the internet do call up the same solenoid for both (note that 2ZZs have 2 solenoids, one VVL and one VVT, whilst the 1ZZ only has the VVT one). Have you checked the lift bolts first? They're the first port of call on a 2ZZ whenever lift doesn't seem to be functioning properly (although not quite sure what you mean by "sounds bad"), and are a cheap and sometimes easy fix. Also worthwhile looking at is the filter screens on the solenoids themselves, the solenoids could be fine but the filters clogged.
  10. I got it from the guy who races JP's (Jason Purcell) AE82 2ZZ track car, JP got it from Ant originally years ago, no idea if he's still in business now.
  11. So, bulk update time (because I've been lazy) November 2020: Trial-fitted my AE102 Sprinter dash cluster the other day whilst I was starting to pull the interior out, the gunmetal dials look good (apart from the bubbles) but the lens has hazing in places and I would really like a 9k tacho for the 2ZZ so not sure if I'll stick with it (needs re-pinning anyway). Shifter cables are now out, the two screws for the cover on the tunnel are a right pain as they are buried underneath the ECU (which I was taking out anyway) and the heater core (which I definitely wasn't removing), managed to get there in the end but it really isn't a job for those with large hands (nowhere near as bad as on the Celica though). Swapped the MWR short shifter and SpeedSource solid bushes back over to the 6-speed shifter housing and then chucked it back in just to double-check the washer stacks (so it doesn't bottom out on the tunnel), will need to trim the battery tray before I try and fit the Celica shifter cables however. At least the shift pattern on the TRD knob finally matches the gearbox... May 2021: Battery tray notched to clear the selector counterweight (first time with an angle-grinder and managed to avoid setting fire to anything or cutting something unintended), selector cables test-run through the firewall (could be a little shorter) and solid brass bushes added to the eyelets. Can now officially select all 6 gears + reverse (doesn't mean much without an engine and driveshafts though :p) Picked up a set of front knuckles, rotors/dust-shields, hubs, ball joints and tie-rods from a Corolla Sportivo (along with the whole rack because the dude couldn't be bothered splitting it) so I can be one step closer to running off-the-shelf driveshafts and rotors (SuperStrut rotors are a couple of mm different in offset to the Sportivo ones and much much rarer). Originally was just looking at the hub (to match the spline) but that snowballed to the knuckle, tie-rod and rack-end to get everything to line up and match (ZZE123 has the tie-rod attach to the bottom of the knuckle whereas the 102 is to the top, so taper would be wrong). Also did a test-fit of my headers to the in-progress 2ZZ conversion on a certain famous orange AE112, the downpipe might be tight getting between the rack and the subframe but at least the headers clear everything easily.
  12. Well ended up waiting a little bit more than a year, but I've also been slack in updating my forum threads. So, in clear violation of 2020 norms, we decided to socially un-distance the body from the wheels - Blue springs for a blue car, of course. Ended up with 40mm drop on the front and 30mm on the rear (but the rears should settle a little more seeing as how they are new). Passed the shoe test (cheated and used a boot :p), does make getting in and out of the driveway a little trickier since we have rolled gutters (so there is no dip on the driveway portion). Not much changed in the year since (what with COVID and still being in warranty and all), but not long after said lowering was done the SX/ZR wheels that I had stashed away copped a load of Pilot Sport 4s and went on (was waiting for the lowering springs to go in and for a 25%-off tyre sale) Here's how she sat, waiting for the train of cars to arrive at Nepean Dam for CCAD 2021
  13. DoE means Duke of Edinburgh Award to me Damn monarchy has their fingers in everything
  14. Reserve lifted may mean that it has actually hit the reserve mark by that point, but the seller/agent has decided to remove the reserve (think of it as "lifting" a restriction) in a way of sparking further interest rather than waiting for the reserve to actually be met (sometimes bidding will peter out before meeting the reserve as people lose interest not knowing how high the reserve floor is). You'll see it a lot with house auctions, agents/auctioneers will notice that buyers are losing interest before the reserve is met and will pause/halt the auction to confer with the seller to see if they want to stick to their original reserve and possibly let the auction "pass in", ie not meet the reserve and there is no obligation to sell to the highest bidder (but there is the option for private negotiation afterwards) or if they want to lift the reserve and the auction then becomes "absolute" (ie it _will_ sell to the highest legitimate bid) Not sure of the legalities, but increasing the reserve price once an auction has started would be incredibly unethical.
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