Hiro Protagonist

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About Hiro Protagonist

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    World's Greatest Sword Fighter
  • Birthday 02/03/1984

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    Newcastle, NSW
  • Real Name
    Ian

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  1. Hiro's Ae102

    Starting to get quite annoyed chasing ghosts now. So a few months ago I started hearing a bit of a scrape/rumble from the front end when coming to a stop, only happened very occasionally so didn't pay too much attention to it initially. Then a few weeks ago it started to get much worse, much faster. Symptoms were a sorta grind/scrape/rub/"whomp" with each rotation, going up or down with wheel speed but only at low speed (<30k). Would happen going straight, turning corners, coasting in neutral, whatever. I couldn't replicate any of the noises on stands, although an initial suspect of a front-right wheel bearing (could feel the clunk when rocking the wheel back and forth) turned out to be a shot tie-rod end. 'Shop didn't see or hear anything wrong with bearings or CVs up on the hoist, and since the only way to truly prove a shot wheel bearing is to actually remove the hub which in turn ruins the bearing and means a new one needs to be fitted regardless meant that I decided to try eliminating other options first. So, in order; 1) Swapped front wheels to rule out cupping. No difference 2) Saw that one rotor had a rusty/pitted ring around the outer edge (really squeally when I rubbed an old pad against it with the wheel spinning). Swapped pads around, no change. Swapped rotors L-R, some of the sound did appear to move with the rotor. Got new rotors, still no difference (some of the squeal did go though). No sign of rocks or anything caught up in the dust shields 3) Dropped the gearbox oil to see if there was any evidence of a blown diff bearing. Oil still semi-translucent and dark honey-coloured. Nothing suspended in the oil either apart from some gold/bronze sparklies that you'd expect from synchro wear. 4) Replaced both front axles. Torqued both axle-nuts up to buggery with a rattle-gun (mine is rated to 310Nm so it isn't heaps higher than the recommended amount). Noise seemed to disappear for about 5 minutes then returned, but not as bad as before. Considering new axles shouldn't have affected the diff at all but could help hide a wheel bearing (by re-tightening the nut) I still can't rule one or the other out. So now I'm stuck in an annoying place - do I replace wheel bearings or gearbox first? Both will probably run to about $400 (got a few options for a cheap second-hand 'box to get me by, labour is essentially the same as a clutch change), and I can _really_ only afford to do one before Christmas. Knowing my luck I'll choose the wrong one though, and I'll end up throwing close to a grand at the thing in total before things are finally fixed.
  2. AE82 4age lack of power

    No, never posted on Whirlpool
  3. AE82 4age lack of power

    Toyota ECUs are well known to suffer from leaking capacitors, at least Jap ones from the 90s.
  4. 4AGE BT into K40 Tranny possible?

    Are you in Aus? If so those 3AUs are probably from AL25 Tercels which have a funky unique Z-series gearbox
  5. 1NZ is 1.5L, 2NZ is 1.3L.
  6. What engine is this?

    Came in JDM GT-spec AE101 Corollas (FXGT hatch, GT sedan, GT and GT-Apex Levin, plus the Ceres and Sprinter Marino). From memory the silvertop uses the same thermostat as the 16V 4AGE that was sold here in the AE82 Twincam and AE92 SX though, local parts books should list those.
  7. 4AGE BT into K40 Tranny possible?

    There are K-series boxes which come with the correct bellhousing to suit an A-series motor (bellhousing is integral), but they're few and far between especially in Aus (main source would be US-spec AE85s which had the 3A and K50. As mentioned above you'd be much better suited to waiting until you can find a T50 (be careful as there are a couple of different versions) or go something like a W58 or J160 which have off-the-shelf adaptors.
  8. Difference between 4ages?

    CSX won't get you a 4AGE though (unless converted), only SX and GTi will.
  9. Thread Pitch

    You should always check thread pitch when buying fasteners. A lot of automotive stuff will be Fine thread, whereas most of the generic building products (like what the Big Green Box stocks) will be Coarse. Another thing to be careful of is that for a given diameter there will only ever be one Coarse thread size, but often multiple Fine sizes (so the word on its own isn't enough). M12 is normally 1.75mm (Coarse) but can be 1.5mm or 1.25mm (Fine)
  10. Just checking, how is your coolant level? Classic 4A/7A problem with an intermittent idle is an air-bubble in the cooling system causes the cold idle valve to open and shut even when the car is warm - might be worthwhile topping up the radiator and then bleeding the system (jack the front of the car up so the radiator cap is the highest point in the system, and then run the car until warm with the cap off and the heater tap open to try and force any bubbles out of the system).
  11. Only thing upstream from the throttle on a 7A is the intake air-temp sensor and that does bugger-all so it'll definitely be downstream. In total there will be vacuum lines for the cam breather (plenum to cam cover), PCV (cam cover to manifold), MAP sensor, brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, and charcoal canister, then the idle-up circuits for the A/C and P/S. I _may_ have a spare 7A MAP sensor running around from my old shell, was planning on stripping all the sensors out of it for spares but ended up selling it mostly whole.
  12. 31 should be the MAP sensor, I think 33 is the idle valve.
  13. 7age/fe build with a twist urgent help

    Something that needs to be clarified here, a 4AF head is NOT the same as a 4AFE or 7AFE, and even amongst the FEs it is only the later 4AFE that has the same head as the 7AFE (at which stage they are identical down to the part numbers). 4AF is the 16V carby head from the early AE92s (they were sold here with extra emissions as 4AFCs). The later AE92s had the early 16V 4AFE which is very similar to the carby 4AF except it has ports for the injectors cast in to the head. They also got the 7AFE in a couple of models. When the AE10x came around the 4AFE was upgraded to have the same head as the 7AFE, both have the injectors in the inlet runners.
  14. Dizzy conection

    1) If you've got a 4AFE it's an AE101, not an AE102. 2) If the original cluster didn't have a tach (being an AE101 it probably wouldn't as only the 1.8 AE102s got the tacho) then you'll need to tap in to the IG- signal wire either on the diagnostics connector or the distributor itself.