Hiro Protagonist

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Hiro Protagonist last won the day on August 9

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About Hiro Protagonist

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    World's Greatest Sword Fighter
  • Birthday 02/03/1984

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    Newcastle, NSW
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  1. Difference between 4ages?

    CSX won't get you a 4AGE though (unless converted), only SX and GTi will.
  2. Thread Pitch

    You should always check thread pitch when buying fasteners. A lot of automotive stuff will be Fine thread, whereas most of the generic building products (like what the Big Green Box stocks) will be Coarse. Another thing to be careful of is that for a given diameter there will only ever be one Coarse thread size, but often multiple Fine sizes (so the word on its own isn't enough). M12 is normally 1.75mm (Coarse) but can be 1.5mm or 1.25mm (Fine)
  3. Just checking, how is your coolant level? Classic 4A/7A problem with an intermittent idle is an air-bubble in the cooling system causes the cold idle valve to open and shut even when the car is warm - might be worthwhile topping up the radiator and then bleeding the system (jack the front of the car up so the radiator cap is the highest point in the system, and then run the car until warm with the cap off and the heater tap open to try and force any bubbles out of the system).
  4. Only thing upstream from the throttle on a 7A is the intake air-temp sensor and that does bugger-all so it'll definitely be downstream. In total there will be vacuum lines for the cam breather (plenum to cam cover), PCV (cam cover to manifold), MAP sensor, brake booster, fuel pressure regulator, and charcoal canister, then the idle-up circuits for the A/C and P/S. I _may_ have a spare 7A MAP sensor running around from my old shell, was planning on stripping all the sensors out of it for spares but ended up selling it mostly whole.
  5. 31 should be the MAP sensor, I think 33 is the idle valve.
  6. 7age/fe build with a twist urgent help

    Something that needs to be clarified here, a 4AF head is NOT the same as a 4AFE or 7AFE, and even amongst the FEs it is only the later 4AFE that has the same head as the 7AFE (at which stage they are identical down to the part numbers). 4AF is the 16V carby head from the early AE92s (they were sold here with extra emissions as 4AFCs). The later AE92s had the early 16V 4AFE which is very similar to the carby 4AF except it has ports for the injectors cast in to the head. They also got the 7AFE in a couple of models. When the AE10x came around the 4AFE was upgraded to have the same head as the 7AFE, both have the injectors in the inlet runners.
  7. Dizzy conection

    1) If you've got a 4AFE it's an AE101, not an AE102. 2) If the original cluster didn't have a tach (being an AE101 it probably wouldn't as only the 1.8 AE102s got the tacho) then you'll need to tap in to the IG- signal wire either on the diagnostics connector or the distributor itself.
  8. The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    You can download whole albums but I've found it to be really hit-and-miss, I've got albums with ~50 photos in them that PB reckons "doesn't contain any images" and then just freezes the download window or makes it unresponsive (and does the same for any other album I try and download until I close and re-load the site) I've got basically all of mine backed up anyway but my PB account had it sorted the way I wanted to keep them, so wanted to try D/Ling them first
  9. Hiro's Ae102

    Had a go at trial-fitting the ST204 pad carrier brackets today in conjunction with the twinpot calipers, unfortunately I've got the 54mm SS AE101 discs rather than the 55mm SS AE111 discs so I couldn't quite get everything to sit snug, looks like I'll either need to machine the pad carrier a couple of mm on the mounting face or get a spacer for the rotor (which I'd prefer not to do as aftermarket rotors are all 55mm). Brand new seal kit and 4x cylinder pistons from Toyota, grand total of $130 +p/h through Amayama Showing the 54-to-55mm step on the AE102 hub - disc needs to be 55mm, wheels need to be 54mm. ST204 caliper bracket on the stock 255mm disc, the rotor just skims the inner face but there's too much room on the other side, wouldn't want a pad falling out... How the 275mm disc sits inside the carrier - since the rotor doesn't want to sit all the way in on the hub (due to the step) it actually lines up almost perfectly in the carrier, however the rotor can rock around a bit and would be dangerous to attach a wheel in this configuration No need to trim the factory heat shield, fits perfect SS pads fit snug in the ST204 carrier and line up millimetre-perfect with the edge of the disc No machining of the pad carrer where it bolts to the hub either (unlike the SS carrier) - perfect fit How it looks all assembled - if it wasn't for the mis-matched paint you'd swear it was a factory fitment Diameter comparison of the AE102 to SS AE101 discs Since the 14" spare wheel will no longer fit over the SS caliper (Superstrut models came with 15" wheels as standard) I decided to get a set of what I believe are facelift ZZE122 15x6" steelies.......that also happened to come with Advan A048 R-comp semi-slicks :D Might just keep those in the back pocket for Toyota Nationals next year... Even with the bigger wheels, clearance was pretty tight. Back side of the caliper was fine, but the clearance between the face of the rim and the front of the caliper is as about as tight as I'd be comfortable with And just for laughs I fitted the ST204 pad carrier and an SS pad to the stock AE102 disc.....yeah, these brakes are going to be heaps better :D
  10. What Grinds My Gears.

    Helps a lot with trucks too as it gives them a second or two to get off the line
  11. Ae102r discs

    Nope, they just slide on - the wheel being clamped on by the lug nuts holds it in place. Very common. Remember that 4x M12 wheel nuts done up to 100Nm torque gives you ~13 tonnes of clamping force on to the face of the rotor hat - that sucker ain't going anywhere. The two tapped holes you see are for jacking screws to help remove the disc if it happens to get seized in place by rust or brake dust.
  12. 4A M/T

    Twinkies are getting too old for wreckers to care about, still plenty of enthusiasts around that have parts or are wrecking spares cars etc. Best way for the brake upgrade is to simply grab everything you can off the donor car (hubs, calipers, rotors, lower arms, handbrake cable, bias valve etc) and it'll all swap in - it is when you try and mix-n-match that things might need to be modified. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/142-AE82-AE92-and-AE101-Brake-Upgrade-Guide There's even a complete AE102 rear disc conversion on eBay at the moment for $200 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-AE102-7-1994-7-1998-Rear-Disc-Brake-Setup-Conquest-Ultima-/263101635721?hash=item3d42145c89:g:3ioAAOSw5UZY~Igo
  13. 4A M/T

    AE82 Twincams aren't rarer than hens teeth, yes they're getting harder to find in good condition but there are plenty of them around. The rear disc conversion using AE92/AE102 gear is pretty well documented though, not expensive and not difficult at all if you're halfway competent at working on a car.
  14. Hiro's Ae102

    Step 1 of Project Twinpot - test fit of AE101 SS calipers on to ST202/204 pad carriers complete. SS pad carrier shown in centre for reference. This should allow me to bolt on the SS twinpots whilst still retaining the 275mm rotor diameter. Next step will be a trial fit to the car (hopefully this weekend) to see how much the rotor will need to be spaced or the pad carrier ground down, followed by a clean and paint (and probably a rebuild, no reason not to). This post also marks my first test of Flickr as an alternate hosting site to Photobucket. Here's hoping it lasts...
  15. Insurance

    NRMA has gone down the road of "no need to list modifications, they're covered as long as they are road legal" but you just know they'll try and find the hidden loop-holes or grey areas wherever they can. Plus there's generally not enough flexibility in the agreed value to be able to actually cover a significantly modified car.