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Hiro Protagonist

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Everything posted by Hiro Protagonist

  1. You're replying to a thread that is 11 years old, and the person who started it hasn't been online in over 3 years
  2. Locked the keys in my wife's KE55 at uni years ago, was about to try bending the window frame back to see if I could get a coat-hanger on to the snib until old mate parked next to me with an SV21 Camry offered to try with his key.....worked like a charm
  3. ZRE152 steering wheel now fitted, SWCs aren't hooked up until I can get a new clock spring (going to switch to black fascia too, silver doesn't suit the Ascent interior) but already feels tonnes better than the stock vinyl noodle-ring.
  4. Short version, towbar now fits - just have to rip the interior trim out of the boot to see if there's any pre-wired plugs of whether we'll have to wire it in from scratch Long version - measured the mounting points on the car with stringlines and plumbs, sent dimensions to manufacturer who confirmed that their entire batch was out (must have been an issue with the jig if that's the case), sent out a new towbar adjusted to the exact dimension of what I had (just in case) and arranged for Toll to pick the other one up (so at least I didn't have to schlep to the post office). One of the tow hook bolt holes was on the verge of stripping out however (not uncommon by the sounds of it) so had to chase it out with a thread tap, of course it had to be the one with the tightest clearance and worst access (muffler side, closest to bumper, and with a useless plastic tab on the bumper getting in the way). Next up is chasing down a facelift ZRE152 steering wheel so I can have SWC for the headunit (although Android Auto is now broken due to my new phone, also seems to be a common problem with S22s). Also picked up a full set of power windows/switches and door trims, at some stage I'll have to pull the interior apart and see how much is also pre-wired for them.
  5. I've heard reasonable things about TAG so maybe I just got the Friday arvo/Monday morning special. In the middle of getting the return sorted now so hopefully that goes relatively painlessly (annoyingly it is through eBay rather than direct to the manufacturer which doesn't help).
  6. Next step was trying to sort out the brake shudder - previous owner indicated that they had been told by the mechanic at last service/rego that the rears were almost done, so I figured that would be the first place to start. Ordered new rotors and pads (didn't bother with the parking brake shoes), arrived quick-smart so got to work swapping them in.... Man I forgot how much I hated drum brakes. Even though the rear brakes are disc, the parking brake works via shoes against the inside of the rotor hat, which means you have to back them off when replacing the rotors otherwise they can catch on a lip. Well, it turns out that I mustn't have backed them off enough (or they stuck to the inside of the rotor), because when I pulled off the right rear (had to use the jacking screws because it wasn't coming by hand) the shoes had grabbed on to something and managed to _bend_ the entire backing plate (despite the only connection between the shoes and the plate being two nail-thin pins). This meant that the new rotor (or the old one, for that matter) could not fit back over the shoes regardless of how much they were backed off, so I was up Schitt's Creek without a rowing instrument. Cue a fit of inspiration to literally rip the entire parking brake hardware off the backing plate, smash the thing back as close to flat as possible with a sledgehammer, tie up the cable to the back of the hub and then make a break-of-dawn run down to Sydney the next day (with no working handbrake) to pick up a new wheel hub....which just turned out to be an entire rear torsion beam assembly, because it required less disassembly (and also gave a few spares). Good thing I bought a wagon, and in a moment of poetic irony the first part the parts hauler hauled was literally it's own rear end (like a Babuskha doll) All goes back together without a hitch, then the new rotors and pads finally fit and my brake shudder problems were solved. Except they weren't. So I figured that it must be the fronts, instead (not like there was any other option, apart from the uncomfortable possibility of excessive runout). Didn't really have time before Christmas to order new rotors (at least pads I could get off the shelf), but fortunately I had a spare set of DBA T2s lying around that were slated to go on the ZZE102 (since the SuperStrut brakes run essentially the same 275mm front rotors). Bit of overkill for a daily wagon hack, but time was more important and I wasn't driving up to Coffs to go camping over NYE with shuddering brakes. At least these went in without a hitch (apart from having to take a few hours break whilst I tracked down which mate I had lent my caliper piston resetting tool to). And lo and behold, the shudder was cured. So speaking of camping, this was one of the reasons why we bought a wagon in the first place (other than being a parts hauler). Still tonnes of room (pretty much from window line up to the roof) Anyway, after we got back in the new year, I set about getting stuck in to the rest of the planned initial mods. First up, towbar. Should be simple, new towbar and straight car (no accident history) should mean everything lines up nice and neat, right? Right? Guess again. Looks like Blind Freddy got a job at TAG some time last year, and welded together my towbar as straight as Mardi Gras So now I've got to go through the hassle of an eBay return of a metre-long chunk of steel, which is always fun. Still, at least the day wasn't a total write-off, as I acquired a set of 16" wheels to progress one step further along the path to Dad-bod Sportivo.
  7. First mod done - replace the (disconnected) factory headunit with a Bluetooth/ACP/AA unit, so I no longer get bored shitless driving a 1ZZ down the freeway with no audio enhancement Still need to get the reverse camera installed and wired up, but that can wait until the towbar goes on
  8. So I went and did a thing the other day. Barring a KE10, we have now completed ownership of every single odd-numbered Corolla generation (3, 5, 7, 11 and now finally 9), and in some ways the fact that my pending existence caused my mother to have to sell her KE10 is kinda poetic (and ironic). So, meet Marvin - both after Marvin the Paranoid Android from HHGTTG (the movie remake unfortunately, since the BBC miniseries version was silver rather than white), and Lee Marvin from the classic Western musical Paint Your Wagon (I was just stretching for any name connected to the word "wagon" really). Pertinent details 2006 Ascent wagon 218k Manual (I am pathologically unable to buy an auto if manual is a viable option) All 3 cupholder dividers present and correct (apparently a minor miracle) Boot room for days Yes it will be getting some (minor) modifications No I won't be putting the 2ZZ in to it instead of the 102 Yes I still have the 102 No it isn't finished yet. by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/]Ian Rigby[/url], on Flickr
  9. Depends on where it was built. Aus-built Corollas had almost no pre-wiring for any accessory that wasn't standard/optional here (and even then not even the options).
  10. So in my continuing trend of spending money on the wife's car and procrastinating in actually getting my project finished (hell, it's barely out of the "started" phase really)... K&N Typhoon SRI, mostly for noise (and it is noticeable when you load it up but not much just at idle or crawling around the suburbs) but there will be a slight performance increase, and unlike most SRIs at least it actually has a heatshield to try and minimise the amount of hot air drawn in (it still uses the snorkel feed that ran to the standard airbox) Meant to be 100% bolt-in but due to the 11th-gen Corollas having a vacuum surge tank on the end of the head which the 10th-gen didn't (kit was designed for the 10th gen, but a lot of the drivetrain/chassis is the same between them) it meant I couldn't use the brace from the head to the underside of the intake pipe, so it's currently just resting against the seal on the heatshield - should be fine though.
  11. Instead of pulling up to a bowser you'd park over a hatch in the ground, old battery pack gets removed and new battery pack gets installed (probably with some kind of hotel power lead so nothing cuts out), all in a matter of minutes. The old pack then gets moved to a charging rack underground in the servo (where the tanks used to be, also nice and cool down there which will help with bulk charging). The hard bit is getting manufacturers to agree to an industry standard (or at least a standard range) so you don't have to accommodate 50 million different combinations of battery and interface. That, and getting users and rechargers to agree on ownership and liability of the batteries themselves (kinda like the gas bottles), separate from the car itself.
  12. There's probably some invisible unknown factor that most of us would never be able to work out unless we worked in the engineering department of a manufacturer. Who knows, maybe on some cars 4x100 is fine but for a slightly heavier/more powerful car the safety factor dips below 10 (or some other absurdly conservative factor that they keep above for legal reasons) and have to go for an extra stud. Just don't look at 60s/70s French cars with only 3-stud wheels - and I don't only mean dinky little 2CVs either, the V6 Alpine A310s were 3-stud too...
  13. My theory is that they work on wheel bearing/driveshaft design first, and the size of those then drives the size of the hub and then the size of the PCD. And several of them being similar comes down to metric equivalents of imperial diameters (ie 100 is 4", 108 is 4.25", 114.3 is 4.5"), and some of them are then rounded further to the nearest 5/10mm or were a metric design to begin with (like 110)
  14. No FWD Corolla is 4x114.3 - E80 onwards (not including AE85/AE86) were all FWD up until the early 2000s, at which point some markets moved to 5x100 (and a couple of years later some others moved to 5x114.3)
  15. Assuming a ~6-7" width (given the tyre size), that's well in to FWD-offset territory. Not many FWDs ran 4x114.3, and nothing really in Toyota-world.
  16. I believe the solenoids are different between 1ZZ and 2ZZ (part numbers are definitely different, but not by much), although some places out there on the internet do call up the same solenoid for both (note that 2ZZs have 2 solenoids, one VVL and one VVT, whilst the 1ZZ only has the VVT one). Have you checked the lift bolts first? They're the first port of call on a 2ZZ whenever lift doesn't seem to be functioning properly (although not quite sure what you mean by "sounds bad"), and are a cheap and sometimes easy fix. Also worthwhile looking at is the filter screens on the solenoids themselves, the solenoids could be fine but the filters clogged.
  17. I got it from the guy who races JP's (Jason Purcell) AE82 2ZZ track car, JP got it from Ant originally years ago, no idea if he's still in business now.
  18. So, bulk update time (because I've been lazy) November 2020: Trial-fitted my AE102 Sprinter dash cluster the other day whilst I was starting to pull the interior out, the gunmetal dials look good (apart from the bubbles) but the lens has hazing in places and I would really like a 9k tacho for the 2ZZ so not sure if I'll stick with it (needs re-pinning anyway). Shifter cables are now out, the two screws for the cover on the tunnel are a right pain as they are buried underneath the ECU (which I was taking out anyway) and the heater core (which I definitely wasn't removing), managed to get there in the end but it really isn't a job for those with large hands (nowhere near as bad as on the Celica though). Swapped the MWR short shifter and SpeedSource solid bushes back over to the 6-speed shifter housing and then chucked it back in just to double-check the washer stacks (so it doesn't bottom out on the tunnel), will need to trim the battery tray before I try and fit the Celica shifter cables however. At least the shift pattern on the TRD knob finally matches the gearbox... May 2021: Battery tray notched to clear the selector counterweight (first time with an angle-grinder and managed to avoid setting fire to anything or cutting something unintended), selector cables test-run through the firewall (could be a little shorter) and solid brass bushes added to the eyelets. Can now officially select all 6 gears + reverse (doesn't mean much without an engine and driveshafts though :p) Picked up a set of front knuckles, rotors/dust-shields, hubs, ball joints and tie-rods from a Corolla Sportivo (along with the whole rack because the dude couldn't be bothered splitting it) so I can be one step closer to running off-the-shelf driveshafts and rotors (SuperStrut rotors are a couple of mm different in offset to the Sportivo ones and much much rarer). Originally was just looking at the hub (to match the spline) but that snowballed to the knuckle, tie-rod and rack-end to get everything to line up and match (ZZE123 has the tie-rod attach to the bottom of the knuckle whereas the 102 is to the top, so taper would be wrong). Also did a test-fit of my headers to the in-progress 2ZZ conversion on a certain famous orange AE112, the downpipe might be tight getting between the rack and the subframe but at least the headers clear everything easily.
  19. Well ended up waiting a little bit more than a year, but I've also been slack in updating my forum threads. So, in clear violation of 2020 norms, we decided to socially un-distance the body from the wheels - Blue springs for a blue car, of course. Ended up with 40mm drop on the front and 30mm on the rear (but the rears should settle a little more seeing as how they are new). Passed the shoe test (cheated and used a boot :p), does make getting in and out of the driveway a little trickier since we have rolled gutters (so there is no dip on the driveway portion). Not much changed in the year since (what with COVID and still being in warranty and all), but not long after said lowering was done the SX/ZR wheels that I had stashed away copped a load of Pilot Sport 4s and went on (was waiting for the lowering springs to go in and for a 25%-off tyre sale) Here's how she sat, waiting for the train of cars to arrive at Nepean Dam for CCAD 2021
  20. DoE means Duke of Edinburgh Award to me Damn monarchy has their fingers in everything
  21. Reserve lifted may mean that it has actually hit the reserve mark by that point, but the seller/agent has decided to remove the reserve (think of it as "lifting" a restriction) in a way of sparking further interest rather than waiting for the reserve to actually be met (sometimes bidding will peter out before meeting the reserve as people lose interest not knowing how high the reserve floor is). You'll see it a lot with house auctions, agents/auctioneers will notice that buyers are losing interest before the reserve is met and will pause/halt the auction to confer with the seller to see if they want to stick to their original reserve and possibly let the auction "pass in", ie not meet the reserve and there is no obligation to sell to the highest bidder (but there is the option for private negotiation afterwards) or if they want to lift the reserve and the auction then becomes "absolute" (ie it _will_ sell to the highest legitimate bid) Not sure of the legalities, but increasing the reserve price once an auction has started would be incredibly unethical.
  22. So, some kind of progress happened... There's now a big empty hole in my life....I mean my engine bay One 7AFE + C52 extracted as ordered And now the install begins... Step 1: Check Euro-spec ZZE112 timing-end mount fits. It does (no mods required) Step 2: Check C52 gearbox mounts fit Celica C60 They do (slight mod required to stiffener on top gearbox mount but could be left off) Step 3: Check fitment of C60 in to Corolla engine bay It fits (just), clears subframe (although will need sump/block attached to 100% confirm), however battery tray will require some surgery to allow the front-mounted Celica shifter to work (battery will be getting relocated anyway) Step 4: #getonthebeers Check
  23. I don't think the shifter end of the cable is really "serviceable", you can get solid brass bushings for the gearbox end from Speedsource etc (or do the classic skateboard bearing hack) but if the shifter ends are really flogged out it might be a case of a new shifter cable (or shift arm if it's the ball on the shifter that is worn rather than the cup on the cable). Normally the shifter end it is the cradle bushes that you replace to try and firm things up. Is it an all-round "looseness" or limited to front/back or side-to-side (which might indicate a particular linkage bush)?
  24. Which bushings? The ones on the linkages on the gearbox, or the ones on the end of the cables under the shifter?
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