parrot

Probably not. The issue is the length of the axle varies depending on the width of the rear end. For example, if I put a AE86 axle into a TE27 housing, it will be sticking a few centimetres out from the end as the TE27 is a narrower car and therefore narrower housing. Speak to Craig. I’m confident he will be able to give you an answer to that. He’s been in the business a long time.

The transaxle code is of no use to you now, but clearly it came out of an RA60/SA63 or some such so you could safely look for some axles from a car with a T series rear from one of those

OK, well you need to know what model it came out of so you can source the axles. I suspect that will be the hardest piece of the puzzle. If i was you I would: 1. confirm that the brackets will mount up without issue to your car. 2. See if you can source some axles for whatever rear end you have. You may be better off finding another complete rear end, probably for the same money 3. Measure whatever axles you get to see if they are zenki or kouki. If you search up AE86 axles you will quickly determine which ones you have. 4. Decide whether you want a new LSD centre or a complete centre with appropriate gearing. AE86 standard ratio is 4.3 and that's probably the one to go for. You will then need to decide if you want a 1.5 or 2 way. 5. As I said earlier, seriously consider looking on Yahoo Japan. I have 4 OEM LSD centres, all from Japan. 3 are 4.3"s, one is a 4.1. The 4.1 was expensive as uncommon, but the 4.3's were fairly cheap. Japan is awash with them. I'm not sure where you are, but if you are in Australia I would contact Craig at https://justjdmimports.com/ and see what he has on the shelf. On the plus side, the best thing I ever did in my AE86 was to install an LSD, and that is just for general street driving. So much so I am working on fitting a TE27 T series rear into my KE15 (hopefully soon). That is basically the same story and I have sourced all the bits for that from Japan. Rear end, axles, LSD centre.

Yes you can use either size axle in any housing, as long as the diff centre is for that size axle. Did you get the axles with it?

There are numerous aftermarket manufacturer options available. T series are 6.7 inch. A quick google will throw up assorted options and if you source an open centre with a gearset in good condition you can get the LSD installed into that. You could take a punt on a second hand complete LSD centre. They are readily available having been available on various models from TA22/TE27 in the early 70’s, to AE86’s in the mid 80’s in various ratios. Yahoo Japan can be a good place to get an affordable centre. Use a broker to bid and ship. In Australia I use Import Monster for heavier/bulkier/dirty items, or Impex for smaller/clean items. They work very well for me but you may find better options. Be aware that if you buy a complete centre you need to take into account the axle diameter required. Zenki (early) axles are smaller, kouki (later) are larger. I’m not sure if the housing trailing arm mounting points are correct for the KE70 depending on which model Celica the donor rear end came from (you don’t say which it eventually came from but gather a later wider third series). Rear end width will also need to be taken into account. Others could probably advise but worth keeping in mind. Also bear in mind you may need to change your tail shaft. Almost certainly the bolt pattern will differ, and potentially the length.

https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q1198803941 Interesting supposed K TRD head with an extreme case of inlet porting! Check out photo 8.

And for completeness, as people interested in this are likely to want to know the pins for the tacho dash

Unfortunately the centre cluster gauges don’t appear in the wiring diagram. These photos may or may not assist. Batsuteri is battery. I have no idea what N, B, F and E represent unless they are printed on the circuit board.

If you can bear with me, the wonders of google translate have enabled me to read a Japanese manual I have. I just need to cross reference and see if i can save the images to post up.

As you can see from one of the photo's above, the pins are numbered consecutively 1 - 6. Wire colours are as follows. 1. Yellow / Black 2. Yellow / Green 3. White / Black 4. empty 5. Red / Black 6. Yellow I haven't made any effort to workout where they go

I think this answers your question?

That's a lot of money. I'd be looking for evidence of what's been done, by whom, for the rebuild and talking them down. What cams does it have. There's still a lot of work & money to be spent to get it running in your car. Plus that exhaust manifold; from what I can see the welds are pretty rough. Assuming you still have recirculating ball steering, the exhaust may not fit anyway

That answers pretty much all of your questions! Realistically the issues are the same for any significant power increase whatever the power plant. Then it’s just a matter of nuancing fitment issues and getting it through engineering

4AGE's are getting a bit long in the tooth whether you look at turboing a 4AG or fiddling with a 4AGZE. As I said earlier, have a look through the ride threads. Someone has always been there before you and dealt with the same issues. You may want to consider a later model engine, not necessarily from a Toyota.

Not necessarily. Someone may have swapped the bellhousing in the last 40yrs. If the clutch fork is on the right hand side of the car then all is well. If it’s on the passenger side of the car, the hydraulic hose will run close. There are ways to manage this, braided hose, side outlet adaptor. But if you are buying a complete transmission, it won’t add anything to the cost these days. As an example. There is a transmission on rollaclub Facebook page right now for a $1000. Described as a JDM T50. But the bellhousing has the clutch slave on the passenger side. It also has no shift lever or shifter. So this reinforces that describing a T50 as JDM is meaningless. Buyer beware. Again I would look at getting something on Yahoo Japan

You will see boxes identified as JDM. Effectively what they are likely saying is that it has a different bellhousing that situates the clutch slave on the drivers side to avoid the exhaust. BUT do check. The bellhousing is a bolt on and may have been swapped. JDM is a confusing term that supposedly refers to the higher levels of specification with emphasis on the sportier bits. In reality there were a huge variety of specification in Japan from shopping trolleys to high end specification

Here's one on Yahoo Japan just for an example. There are various options to have things brought from japan. Costs vary. https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e1178794730 If you find a T50 without a shift lever, or clutch fork, reverse switch, clutch bearing carrier, be aware these parts can also be hard to find and expensive if sourced separately. https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n1193665501 The donor tailshaft MUST be from a 4AGE equipped AE86. Lesser specification AE86's had different rear end and thus a smaller yoke at the diff end.

The conversion has been done countless times over the years. We put a 4AGE in a KE55 back in about 1990. Nothing has changed, except the ease of finding parts. The w56 (if it can be bolted onto the back of a 4AGE - I don't know), will likely be too big for the tunnel, and heavy. Whatever you do will require engineering so you will need to be careful what you do. Have a look at the Rollaclub Rides thread - there will doubtless be examples there. Craig Foster is likely a good place to start in your search for parts https://justjdmimports.com/

Keep it simple. I would stick to a late T50 and just expect you will need to wait for something to come up. They are of course gold plated and parts difficult to get. Seriously look at perhaps getting one from yahoo Japan. May in fact be cheaper. Also for a suitable tailshaft (see below) You don't need anything stronger, it will bolt up and also fits within the transmission tunnel. The rear axle is going to require modification no matter what. Best bet is a 6.7 inch rear end from an early Celica. Coil sprung so will need modification to leaf springs, and potentially narrowing. 6.7 inch rear is what 4AGE equipped Sprinters used standard and gives you easy access to LSD's. Tailshaft is awkward as you need a front yoke to suit the T50, and a rear to suit the 6.7 inch. That means ideally an AE86 tailshaft; or an AE71 front and early celica rear. Read up on T50's as basically there are three versions, and you need the later one. You are of course a prime target for scammers, and what you need is in demand. So be careful, if you want it tomorrow you will pay through the nose. If you can wait and keep a lookout whilst doing other things, you may save some cash.

If I was you, I would be getting the distributor regraphed to suit. Performance Ignition in Nunawading is the place to go.

I put a Wade 169 grind in my TA22 with a 2T back in the 1980's (back when they were in Berkeley or Barry Street Carlton - behind Repco). Was a fantastic choice as a daily driver and for everything from clubsprints, autocrosses, motorkhanas you name it. I ran it on twin DCOE 40's and the thing just revved and screamed, with a street friendly power band. A mate took it off for a spin one night and from a distance it sounded like a motorbike. Then I lost my job and in the interests of economy I put a 32/36 DCD on it. The reduction in intake really stifled it after the twins, and once I was employed again it was great to put them back on. Assuming you have ported and shaved the head (compression is good), I would encourage you to think about twins. I then went with their recommended profile on their blanks with my 4AGE 16 valve. Wade were extensively involved in a programme of camshaft development with Toyota at that time. I'm now building a 3K and have elected to go with the trusty 169 grind once again. Of course Wade's have gone now. It was a fascinating place to go, as they would be working on monstrous cams as big as a car for all manner of machinery, not just automotive. Clive Cams (Clive Stenlake - who worked at Wade) took over the Wade profiles and he did my latest cam a couple of years ago. He has also since sold on the business which now operates out of Wendouree.

I posted a link to one on eBay. It’s in Australia.

No. T18/KE70 part number is SX1140 KE30 - KE55 is SX1139. It isn't common with any other Toyota https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/387927945293?_skw=sx1139+toyota&itmmeta=01K0GV2B5T02WYD34A3AD3YH3F&hash=item5a524eb04d:g:9O8AAOSwEJtnq-SR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e5bU8%2BVY1zPGYlRqqohFfFJqSPUeHX4UKDb0Cn4fd018Nr1J4Os4ruR2r9FM8GX1zEbNnKJCnpF02myLb7ry5KjfRa3sJxaKkC2yV42TcM%2BfcrWMaCAyVaCcWg7JsYDI%2BKP8DGG5VPKCTOlTlkolynmeSYhnSYMXd%2BdZjg%2FmOb8hwbA6JuDhWYi1ey2TPp6vhcJGZmh7ncO7LpsWZVFv%2F3YOUZSqGC3QyXR6y6E--khTxUp02RsbOxDk89d8WMEqw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4SziZuEZg

First, there is no point proceeding if the frame is still bent. And surely you know where any rust is by now? The common areas are at the rear of the base of the front guards/front of the sill, pockets behind rear wheels, base of the C pillar, and anywhere along the roof rails, under the battery tray, below the brake master cylinder. Replace any perishable brake components and the brake fluid. Flush the cooling system/check the heater core/hoses. I recommend you fit an electronic points replacement kit, and obtain a set of factory manuals off ebay - chassis/body/engine. They are always on there, just wait for copies that are sensibly priced. Much superior to the Gregory's etc manuals.

Do update your thread when you have an answer. I'm sure the info will be relevant to other application also.