parrot

"Just driving around" with a welded diff is a serious pain in the arse. It really isn't worth it believe me

BTW, those brackets that bolt to the block look like T engine brackets. If you do have swaybar issues, you can probably solve that using a TA22 swaybar. This is a picture comparing crossmembers for a KE25 and a TE27. Basically the same car with either a K engine or a T engine. Gives some idea of the differences between the two

The main engine mounts are welded to the crossmember, then there are engine mounts bolted to the engine block. The mounts welded to the crossmember are spaced quite differently between a K engine and a T engine. There is a difference between fitting the engine into the engine bay, and fitting it correctly. It's very likely that the original crossmember to suit a K engine is still in the car, and they have worked around it at the engine block end. That is always going to be a compromise. You need to find out what they did to fit the engine in. If it is a K crossmember, have they cut and rewelded the mounts? Your options are to redo that properly, or source a T crossmember for this car from either Japan or the USA as we never had T engines in these cars in Australia (edit: I see you are from Philippines). I would source the correct crossmember. Not as expensive as it might seem, and probably cheaper than trying to work around using a K crossmember. It probably had a different sway bar with T engine also, so you may need to work around that or the sump may sit on the swaybar. It's been done lots of time so isn't rocket science. Look through the build threads as there is likely the very same issue outlined there.

Most of the Thai sellers on eBay have their own websites off Ebay and may be willing to ship to you, but note the quality of the repro stuff is a bit variable. A good option is yahoo Japan. Often cheaper than you would think, and often the only place you will find things. But you will need to buy through one of the sites that enable you to search in English and bid in real-time. I’ve been doing that for years and have a great broker here in Australia that ships larger items by container. Even a whole shell on one occasion. You will need to do some searching for that. I also buy a lot of genuine parts using a wholesaler, Impex Japan. You need to know part numbers though. They are surprisingly cheap compared to my local Toyota dealer. Of course, many parts I try to buy are no longer available, but I’m often surprised by what I can get.

The KE70 K50 rebuild is detailed in the T18 Chassis repair manual Pub No. 36018E They come up on ebay from time to time. Yes you do need the ball, and I've got to say (politely) if you are not aware of that you probably should be leaving the rebuild to a professional. Edit, actually this manual should also be the one. Pub No. 98389. There are a few on ebay if you search Corolla chassis under Service & Repair manuals https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/304943368881?hash=item47000a8ab1:g:-74AAOSwPfhkY~jF&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4K%2FPo2bVhnBhnrhFv%2FW%2BhsUumxZXJRHHPZ9MxPR6ax6WQDZbusKRCZ064gUZpQrxpvvx5w%2FOw3oQErLWTCP6qGFt7rJdd30%2B8wnRNUxQy8gvqcej4lc8o7W3KosOnbPCb7khFCkfzf3tdBqdKOtwAYhV1A%2FQxZPAPDGOqufkWO%2B%2Fu7CoYRllmURB2Q1RIRv4zbIhCKU5wODYHS%2Fy2CGzFo2lRycsGNjcr7uL7tt%2Fq0X%2BEYVu0%2FqUtDsS7VzJsfmwHGA2HRRPCRJ2wtdW0pRGvAtlM%2FxEcLgo9v6UTpvfRyHV|tkp%3ABk9SR96cvPDRYg

Issue with the AE86 rear end is its width, and being coil sprung. It will need to be cut down and converted to leaves. TE27 diff housings and axles come up often enough on yahoo Japan. I have a spare set of axles waiting for me to pickup from my local buying agent right now as I’m tossing up putting one in the KE15 anyway, and I have a couple of housings. The 6.7 inch T series AE86 LSD centres fit straight into these housings, and if you get the early ‘Zenki’ diff centre, the TE27 axles will too. AE86 GT rear axles have a wider bearing so probably won’t fit the TE27 housing. Anyway, something to think about. There must be part importers in the UK specialising in buying and shipping parts from yahoo Japan.

Great to hear you have had progress. Have you decided which diff you are going to use? If you are planning on using a 6.7 inch Toyota diff centre, you may want to consider sourcing an entire propshaft so you have the correct fitting at each end. There is a solid AE86 scene in Ireland/UK with a number of people regularly breaking cars. Mind you they are apparently all gold plated. Try https://www.facebook.com/groups/410002902532014/ In Australia these days I would get one from Yahoo Japan, but the shipping for you would likely make gold plated Irish parts cost effective. There is a markup in Australia also as our AE86's came with the smaller 6.38 inch diff, so anyone going with 6.7 inch diff for the LSD needs to find the rear half of a TE72 tailshaft - not common here. All the UK AE86's will be 6.7 inch from factory. But bear in mind the Irish/UK guys import a lot of cars from Japan, and some of the Japanese models also had 6.38 inch rear ends, so don't get caught there. But the gearbox yoke should be common. Here are a couple on yahoo now. Use google translate https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n1101870855 https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v1102584509

Will it somehow still be controlled by the standard thermostat? I wonder what the flow rate of the normal water pump is. Possibly may need to enlarge the thermo bypass to minimise turbulance?

I don't know, but believe it is very minimal. Many have converted auto's to manual. I believe there is only the "start only in park" wiring. But this is at the transmission selector and I doubt you will be changing that bit.

Save yourself the heartache and get a replacement loom form a wrecked car. You will be chasing your tail for ever. Look on FB marketplace for something local. If you are in Melbourne, there is a not very messed with KE70 auto at Imlach's. Still quite complete when I saw it a couple of weeks ago

Try these guys. They have a good range of older parts and usually very helpful. Yes they are in Australia, but you are going to have to accept that. I've been buying parts from UK, Europe, Japan and US for years. https://www.autosurplus.com.au/?_kx=IW2Xbo3UgLz4WKwvszjr3ZP_IpSLSUJs5GILWsGOAZI%3D.VADT9w

A few years on. https://www.ikengineering.co.uk/product-page/toyota-3-4-5-7k-roller-rocker-kit-1-63-ratio GBP648 (AUD $1240) inc VAT on their website GBP825 (AUD $1578) inc VAT on their ebay site? That's a lot of money. And doesn't include postage. No current listing on Yella Terra. I'm thinking of investing in some new pushrods and leaving it at that! NLA from Toyota but I see there is a crowd that specialise in pushrod manufacture. Jet Engineering. And they are in Victoria! Shall see how much they are. https://www.jetengpushrods.com.au/

True, the pin size wont be relevant will it.

No the KE20 ball joint pin is smaller.

I’ve got an extra TE27 housing I’m thinking about using in mine. I haven’t got too serious at measuring anything yet but with luck the spring mount locations may be close across the two housings. if so I can run a 6.7 inch LSD out of an AE86

Sorry Rupert. I misunderstood there

I'm sure you can buy specific plastic alignment tools at repco etc

I saw a KE15 years back that had a 2tg in it, Was no longer running at the time, but they had to do some cutting around the front sub frame to get it to fit. There isn't a lot of room there even with a K engine. A 2tg is reasonably bulky. I've got some 2TG's here if you want some rough measurements. And 16V 4AGE's. I'm in Berlin at the moment but back in a couple of days. For a start I'll measure the length of K, A and T block. 4AGE's have been done, and i reckon that may be your best bet, and are reasonably available

And I want it. The heater tap that is

Can't argue with that logic!

It looks great! How does it go? I would think the trial and error is always an expectation with anything like this though.

I think the new thing is electrically assisted steering. I believe a 2005 Yaris donor from a wrecker is the go. Of course there will be more to it than just bolting it in, and you may require a rack, so it starts to get a bit complex. But have a look at that. Or put in a bigger diameter steering wheel! I jumped into my AE86 with 185 wide rubber last weekend for the first time in a long time and couldn't get over how heavy the steering was after years of super light power steering

Isn't something creating that much current requiring substantial kw to drive it? Or am i being simplistic (also known as ignorant)

Any crappy old 2TG is going to cost a shitload to buy, and 5 shitloads to rebuild. Basic stuff like chain guides and tensioners are hella expensive and hard to find. 4AGE 16 valves are 35-40 yrs old now. Parts are easier to get, but if you want it reliable, it needs to be fuel injected. There are three distinct looms feeding into a factory ECU and you need input from all three to make it run properly. If you do that, it is super reliable other than possible issues with heat soak in the distributor internals. They go alright standard, but nothing dramatic. Plenty of people have turboed them or stuck a 4AGZE in instead. but it isn't as simple as everyone makes out. Plenty of people get by the easy bit of bolting things together, spending lots on diffs, tailshafts, brakes, fuel systems etc. Hard bit is making it all run reliably, and the engine management is critical. How many 95% complete projects do you see for sale. You can carb it, but not as reliable. You will be hard pressed to find an auto to run behind it too. Possibly a 3SGE out of an altezza?

Any updates to inspire us Sebastian?