parrot

That makes no sense. Read it again and correct it with a proper question

It pops up occasionally, then disappears.

Can’t believe I didn’t think of that! Was lying bed last night thinking about getting a bigger fan. Oh well, better welds or better lungs? Perhaps I’ll just be sensible and allow the fumes to clear before looking at the weld!

Thanks for that. I had a fun afternoon. The key thing I found was keeping the mig wire short out of the gun to the contact point. And starting the next spot off the edge last one. And as you say going slow and giving it a chance to puddle. I have a fan to blow away the fumes though as it means i am getting pretty close to the weld, and when I lift the mask to have a closer look i was getting a good breath of fumes. Love watching your work!

It's behind the rear seat tank. This is the part number. 83320-19205 If you google it various options come up pretty cheap.

I'm getting stuck into my KE15 at the moment, dealing with the rusted area inside the scuttle panel at the heater air intake. Very much a beginner welder and learning as I go on an area that won't be visible. I've quickly learned with butt welding not to have the two pieces of metal flush, as the penetrance isn't there. Soon as you grind it off, the joint is week and you are pretty much back where you started. Back out to have another go.

Sounds very reasonable

Is it just me, or has this section disappeared from the forum?

There are a lot of parts to hunt down for the AE86 aircon and they are old, worn out and expensive. If you can find them. But the upsurge in AE86 prices has people looking to restore to factory. If there are modern alternatives in a complete kit you can retrofit I would be doing that. What has your research thrown up so far.

12 years later I’m tipping he no longer has the car! What’s your indication for thinking you might need them?

The airpump is part of the emissions so you don't need that, or the cat con. Cut your losses and put a non pollution engine in it. These guys have a KE55 listed on facebook right now. Gamage Motors Corolla ke 55 parts available 0773180126 Galle

Surely you can source a replacement original fitment Carb and distributor locally. I think you are going to be chasing your tail forever and need to revert to stock fittings. I expect you know that the U designation relates to emissions. So while the various vacuum lines are superfluous, it may not be happy if you get them wrong.

is it still running on LPG?

Can't help with WA, but you can always post yours to Performance Ignition. They have been around for very many years. https://performanceignition.com.au/p/troubleshooting

Also try the AE82 Corolla Owners Group page on facebook. Failing that I would get yours rebuilt. You wont find a new one easily/reasonably.

If you are in Melbourne, there is a 1987 & 1988 AE82 at Pickapart in Kilsyth, and a 1986 at Broadmeadows. No idea if they still have its distributor.

Unfortunately 4AGE's are also well known for it. Especially those without a distributor heat shield. Suffered it myself on an ae82 twin cam. From memory the late 4AC in Australia had a Bosch unit. Realistically it's never going to be reliable now. Best bet to replace it. If you can have it off the road, consider sending it to a distributor rebuild place like Performance ignition in Melbourne. It may not be (very) cheap. Or just try to source a complete distributor somewhere else and hope it isn't affected, and the bearings/seals are OK. And heat shield that.

I'm thinking it has an electronic distributor? This can happen with heat soak into the internal ignitor module. At a minimum try and heat shield the distributor. One it cools off, it will generally then start

You need to test power going into the element, power coming out of the element. Also the quality of the earth. If they are good, it has to be the element. Back in the day you could but element repair kits, which was basically something you painted on over the break - once you found it. Here you go, can still buy it: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/126223599329?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1kD6G9jjDT8mvYIenkS9Kpw57&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=126223599329&targetid=1740279243329&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071325&poi=&campaignid=18277121424&mkgroupid=142426603833&rlsatarget=pla-1740279243329&abcId=9301724&merchantid=5320211051&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqsitBhDlARIsAGMR1RheL8-GxprntG8HPrWh8ksujXbWJuh-2fcv6kxWGUVvj3UVP23GEVkaAlMkEALw_wcB

In a nutshell. Since you are in the US you are lucky. As these parts can be sourced locally and pretty cheap. Buy a local T series rear end out of a TE27 as it is the correct width and is already leaf spring. TA22 is wider and coil sprung (unless very early. An early (Zenki) LSD centre will bolt in possibly needing to shave the axles. If you want to convert to disc brakes that's up to you and you can research what fits. You may want to pay someone to design a fancy axle location setup if you are really going to have that much power. There is no such thing as rear struts in this shell. Buy a TE27 pedal box so you have hydraulic clutch to suit the later T50 gearbox. You can put AE86 derived coilovers in but will need TE27 steering arms to bolt them in. It will affect your front geometry as the stub axle inclination is different so you need adjustable camber tops to pull the struts in. Can only do that if you have coilovers as standard springs will hit the strut tower. Front crossmember will need to be modified whatever it comes out of. A 4A engined donor crossmember will be too wide. Have a look at local Starlets, some of which I think already have rack and pinion, and are narrow, but you will still need to do some fabrication there including modifying the engine mounts to 4A and connecting to your steering column. It all impacts steering geometry and is more complicated than it might seem. A tail shaft will need to be custom made as anyhing factory fitment will be too long. I disagree with KE70Dave about the wiring to the ECU. To get it all running properly is complicated and will directly impact the driveability and practicality of the car. If going any bigger than 270 duration cams, or fitting ITB's as you say, will require an aftermarket ECU. Not sure what smog rules are in California now but you may want to look at that first. A lot of people build cars to 95% completion, then sell them because they can't sort out the engine management properly. In a standard AE86, there are three seperate looms, engine, dash and body. If they are incomplete or not talking to each other, the car turns into a pig. Any fuel setup is going to be fully custom with the items you mentioned. The fabricator can work that out. It's going to cost you a LOT of money if someone else is doing it.

What other modifications have you made on cars before this one. It's a lot harder than it might seem. Not simply a matter of buying parts and bolting them together.

No it's too big. Seriously, this has been discussed a bazillion times. You need to put a bit of ground work in yourself and sort this out.

According to the PGI catalogue, yes. This does not mean they are available. COROLLA KE30, KE36, KE38, KE55 1974 - 9/1981 Part no. TT148 Bottom width 1339 Centre height 595 KE35 coupe and KE50 are different

On the school run there was a guy who dropped his kid off in the Lambo. Problem was you had to drive in and out through a garage area and the stupid car was so wide he would get stuck and hold everyone up as no one could get past going the other way. The joys of Eastern suburbs private schools. Thank god that's no more. Now they drive themselves everywhere.

Hi Tony. A bit of searching around suggests Monroe MG991 inserts appear to suit a 60series Cressida. Always need to be a bit wary of where the google rabbit hole takes you, but may explain your fitment issue. Are you sure someone hasn’t put some different struts in the car? if yes, it doesn’t solve your supply issue, but at least you have a better idea of what you are looking for.