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corollaTE27Fan

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About corollaTE27Fan

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    UK
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    Keith

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  1. Thanks for the tips chaps. I have 185 60 13's on my current 6j alloys and even with the car being lowered 1.5 inches they run fine with no scrubbing around the arches. I can see that if i wenr to a 7j wheel i would probably get srubbing on the arches. I may just stick to what I have, though I would really like to get some classic jap alloys but they all seem to start at 7J.
  2. Pete, by "too big" do you mean too wide, as the diameter is only 13"? I am trying to achieve the appearance of the orange car in altezzaclub's reply above in my KE20. Maybe I just need to stick with my current 5J wheels and try some spacers for a similar effect and see if the tyres rub, though I did not really want to use spacers.
  3. I have aquired some 7J 13 inch alloys that have the right offset but project about 1.5 inches beyond the standard arches. I want the extra width but did not want to have to cut the arches and was hoping to use some 1.5 inch metal fender flares to cover the tyre projection, similar to the ZTE look. The car is lowered 1.5 inches front and rear. The question is can I use the wheels without cutting the arches and if so what width and profile tyres would work?
  4. If I remember correctly the rear shocks were from KYB and the part number was 343020 and the front strut shock inserts were all so KYB and the part number was 363046. The front strut shock inserts were 38mm diameter but about 20mm too short hence the need for some packing. No pics though, wish I had taken some now to share.
  5. Well, after almost 3 years faffing around I finally have the suspension sorted - if anyone is interested, for my 1974 KE20 coupe (Jap spec), MR2 Mk1 strut inserts worked with a turned brass spacer the same size as a 22mm copper compression fitting nut in the front and Mk2 Escort rear shocks on the rear. Kept everything else standard with 1.5 inch lowering blocks. Currently running some period 13 inch 6J alloys with correct 110 bolt pattern and not to fat tyres with no issues with tyres protruding beyond or rubbing on arches. Now looking to change front hubs and rear drums and drive shafts to get a better choice of Jap period wheels, hoping my KE30 shortened drive shafts in my KE20 axle with KE30 drums and back plates will work. Also hoping that the KP60/61 front hubs that I have will fit my standard KE20 front struts. Also have a mildly tuned small port 4AGE being built for me here in the UK which should deliver about 180BHP which is more than enough for my needs as it will be used just as a road car which should fit nicely in front of my T50 5-speed gearbox when I can find the parts to re-condition it! Photos to follow.
  6. Hi All, I am looking to replace my original KE20 steering wheel with something a little smaller in diameter but would like to keep it period. Any tips/ideas on what to buy that is readily available and easy to fit. I am based in the UK so shipping will be a consideration in overall cost also.
  7. Thanks Tor, that was the answer that I was really after as Starlett parts are a little easier to come by here in the UK.
  8. Thanks Banjo - will be interested to hear how you get on. Anyone have any knowledge of the compatibility between KE20 and KP20 (Starlet) brake parts?
  9. Being in the UK its a struggle to get replacement parts for my KE20 which is getting a 4AGE conversion. As part of the job I want to change the standard wheel bolt pattern to the more favourable 114.3mm. Having searched and searched for KE30 parts I have what i need to do the rear but cannot find any KE30 front hubs but I do have access to a pair of Starlet KP60 front hubs. Everyone in the UK here says they are a straight swap for the KE20's allowing the KE20 brake set up to remain but I just wanted to check with you guys if this is correct. Advice/confirmation would be appreciated.
  10. Thanks for the replies chaps, been reading around, thinking out aloud then for the front if I keep the KE20 standard struts as they are it seems I can use the KE30 calipers, backing plates, discs and hubs. I appreciate that this will give only an extra 18mm or so diameter increase in brake disc diameter but it makes sense to me as I have the KE30 parts to do this and does not seem to be too much hassle. I was also considering using the standard KE30 brake booster and master cylinder would this be worth while? At the rear I have a spare KE30 diff, that I could use with correct KE30 drive shafts, brake drums and backing plates. Again I understand that the brake drums etc will fit OK but is it really worth swapping the diff over or should I just change the drive shafts and brakes? Just as an aside, will I need to use wheel spacers on the front if I want to match the rear track and not have to use unequal width wheels? One final question, if my plan above is feasible what wheel diameter/width wheel would I need to look for and would the offset need to change as my current wheels are 13" with a zero offset and fit nicely in the standard arches after lowering all round by 1.5". I would be happy to use fender flares and slightly wider wheels as I thing my current wheels are only 6" wide (I appreciate I wont be able to use these anymore as the stud pattern would have changed). Sorry for all the questions but the knowledge you chaps hold is like a goldmine!
  11. I know this has been asked before and I can't find any definitive answers in the Forum archives, but is it possible to fit KE30 front suspension parts to a KE20 if so what bits is it best to use. I am currently planning my 4AGE engine swap. My first objective is to get slightly bigger brakes and the better 114.3 stud pattern for a better wheel choice. I am OK with the rear as I have a full KE30 rear axle complete with brakes etc. which I can nick parts from. One area that is a bit of a puzzle for me is what shocks and springs to use if the KE30 stuff fits. I only have access to very limited KE30 and KP60/61 parts as virtually all other late 70's Jap model car parts are non-existant here in the UK and not cost effective to buy from overseas due to shipping costs. As always, any tips/help would be appreciated.
  12. OK sussed how to add pictures, here we go!
  13. Finally got my car riding just how I wanted it. In the end I lowered it by using 1.5 inch lowering blocks on the rear for a Mk1 Ford Escort and Mk2 Ford Escort rear shocks to compensate for the drop. On the front I used a 1.5 inch lowered spring with AW11 38mm dia early rear strut inserts with a small 20mm or so spacer to ensure a perfect fit. Running 6J 13" TWR alloys with 185-60-13 tyres keeps the speedo near true and the tyres are clear of the fenders. The ride is hard but not uncomfortably so. Did not get the TE27 wide track look that I was looking for but that will come when I get my 4AGE conversion sorted in the next year or so. Thanks to Pete and all who shared their knowledge and wisdom. (i would have posted a picture but have yet to work out how to do it on here)
  14. Can anyone verify for me if this http://www.sparepart....uk/7274441-skf is the correct replacement part for a standard KE20 rear wheel bearing. Thanks
  15. Thanks for the replies chaps - appreciate the help and encouragement.
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