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corollaTE27Fan last won the day on May 28 2020

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About corollaTE27Fan

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  1. My rebuilt 4AGE is going to be ready in a couple of months to go in my KE20 and I need to start thinking about headers and an exhaust. Looking for ideas of what would fit off the shelf for headers down to the collector. Engine is not in car but need to get headers sorted at least if feasible. Anyone able to offer any suggestions?
  2. I caught the top of a dropped bollard that had not been lowered properly on a private road going to a car club meeting. It seems to have clipped the front and pull it back, though on the face of it looks more like superficial damage than 'structural'. It seems that the metal is really quite flimsy and I was not going fast at the time. Car still drives fine with no pulling when braking or any apparent steering issues. My car is in near 'mint' condition and I would like to keep it as original as possible. I have sourced a chassis complete with running gear intact but the buyer is asking in excess of £1500 which is silly money. I hope to get my newly built 4AGE fitted later in the year so may try and deal with it then when the engines out. I'll post a picture when I next get it up on a lift.
  3. Looking for a front suspension cross member to allow me to repair some damage to my current one. Anyone have one that they would be willing to sell and ship to the UK? Cheers
  4. I dropped mine 1.5 inches and used Mk1 AW11 MR2 strut inserts (kyb 363046) and Mk2 2 Ford Escort rear shocks (kyb 343020). I have purpose made 1.5 inch lowering springs that fit the existing struts and am using 1.5 inch lowering blocks on the rear. Only issue i had wxs the need to bush the strut insert tops by about 15mm to stop them knocking. I am running 13 inch alloys with standard fitment pcd with 0 offsett and 185 60 13 tyres with no mods to bodywork and handling and tyre wear is perfect. Hope this helps.
  5. What a great looking car! I am in the UK doing much the same with my KE20 and I have decided to go for a mildly tuned small port 4AGE standard engine swap which will give me around 160BHP. For a car weighing only 800 kilos that plenty of power in terms of a power to weight ratio. Be interested to hear how you get on and the mods you decide to go for.
  6. Thanks for the tips chaps. I have 185 60 13's on my current 6j alloys and even with the car being lowered 1.5 inches they run fine with no scrubbing around the arches. I can see that if i wenr to a 7j wheel i would probably get srubbing on the arches. I may just stick to what I have, though I would really like to get some classic jap alloys but they all seem to start at 7J.
  7. Pete, by "too big" do you mean too wide, as the diameter is only 13"? I am trying to achieve the appearance of the orange car in altezzaclub's reply above in my KE20. Maybe I just need to stick with my current 5J wheels and try some spacers for a similar effect and see if the tyres rub, though I did not really want to use spacers.
  8. I have aquired some 7J 13 inch alloys that have the right offset but project about 1.5 inches beyond the standard arches. I want the extra width but did not want to have to cut the arches and was hoping to use some 1.5 inch metal fender flares to cover the tyre projection, similar to the ZTE look. The car is lowered 1.5 inches front and rear. The question is can I use the wheels without cutting the arches and if so what width and profile tyres would work?
  9. If I remember correctly the rear shocks were from KYB and the part number was 343020 and the front strut shock inserts were all so KYB and the part number was 363046. The front strut shock inserts were 38mm diameter but about 20mm too short hence the need for some packing. No pics though, wish I had taken some now to share.
  10. Well, after almost 3 years faffing around I finally have the suspension sorted - if anyone is interested, for my 1974 KE20 coupe (Jap spec), MR2 Mk1 strut inserts worked with a turned brass spacer the same size as a 22mm copper compression fitting nut in the front and Mk2 Escort rear shocks on the rear. Kept everything else standard with 1.5 inch lowering blocks. Currently running some period 13 inch 6J alloys with correct 110 bolt pattern and not to fat tyres with no issues with tyres protruding beyond or rubbing on arches. Now looking to change front hubs and rear drums and drive shafts to get a better choice of Jap period wheels, hoping my KE30 shortened drive shafts in my KE20 axle with KE30 drums and back plates will work. Also hoping that the KP60/61 front hubs that I have will fit my standard KE20 front struts. Also have a mildly tuned small port 4AGE being built for me here in the UK which should deliver about 180BHP which is more than enough for my needs as it will be used just as a road car which should fit nicely in front of my T50 5-speed gearbox when I can find the parts to re-condition it! Photos to follow.
  11. Hi All, I am looking to replace my original KE20 steering wheel with something a little smaller in diameter but would like to keep it period. Any tips/ideas on what to buy that is readily available and easy to fit. I am based in the UK so shipping will be a consideration in overall cost also.
  12. Thanks Tor, that was the answer that I was really after as Starlett parts are a little easier to come by here in the UK.
  13. Thanks Banjo - will be interested to hear how you get on. Anyone have any knowledge of the compatibility between KE20 and KP20 (Starlet) brake parts?
  14. Being in the UK its a struggle to get replacement parts for my KE20 which is getting a 4AGE conversion. As part of the job I want to change the standard wheel bolt pattern to the more favourable 114.3mm. Having searched and searched for KE30 parts I have what i need to do the rear but cannot find any KE30 front hubs but I do have access to a pair of Starlet KP60 front hubs. Everyone in the UK here says they are a straight swap for the KE20's allowing the KE20 brake set up to remain but I just wanted to check with you guys if this is correct. Advice/confirmation would be appreciated.
  15. Thanks for the replies chaps, been reading around, thinking out aloud then for the front if I keep the KE20 standard struts as they are it seems I can use the KE30 calipers, backing plates, discs and hubs. I appreciate that this will give only an extra 18mm or so diameter increase in brake disc diameter but it makes sense to me as I have the KE30 parts to do this and does not seem to be too much hassle. I was also considering using the standard KE30 brake booster and master cylinder would this be worth while? At the rear I have a spare KE30 diff, that I could use with correct KE30 drive shafts, brake drums and backing plates. Again I understand that the brake drums etc will fit OK but is it really worth swapping the diff over or should I just change the drive shafts and brakes? Just as an aside, will I need to use wheel spacers on the front if I want to match the rear track and not have to use unequal width wheels? One final question, if my plan above is feasible what wheel diameter/width wheel would I need to look for and would the offset need to change as my current wheels are 13" with a zero offset and fit nicely in the standard arches after lowering all round by 1.5". I would be happy to use fender flares and slightly wider wheels as I thing my current wheels are only 6" wide (I appreciate I wont be able to use these anymore as the stud pattern would have changed). Sorry for all the questions but the knowledge you chaps hold is like a goldmine!
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