parrot

Install an electric fan with a relay to cut in at appropriate temp. A good idea to use the standard shroud on the back of the radiator also. There are write ups online of how to set up your relays. I have setup mine (in my AE86) as per The Witzl's thread on Toymods from years ago, using a stock AE82 Corolla thermo switch to activate it. There are vast options for cheap fans at your local pick a part, and if you take a tape measure, you may find something that fits well with a bit of thought with its own shroud. As Banjo says, a clutch fan sticks out a fair way. Personally I dislike aluminium radiators because they don't look right in my view. Years ago my mate and I had identical TA22's except that he had a stock 2TG in his, and I had a moderately warm 2TC with twin webers etc in mine. We used to race in clubsprints at CCCV events, and usually we were pretty even with very similar times. One day I was able to gradually pull away from him, and it drove nuts because he knew I hadn't done anything special to the car. I told him my modification was in plane sight, but still he couldn't see it. All I had done was take the fixed (not clutch) fan off the car when we arrived at Calder. Not an issue when racing in 3 lap sprints. He only realised at the end of the day when I re installed it to drive home. Vale Paul Carden - a much better driver than me.

They do look really good. Body appears pretty straight? Or the result of a lot of work?

I think they were a run out effort. My book only goes up to Nov75 so doesn’t cover it. some shots from the brochure

Toyodiy is very good but as you know doesn’t cover all older models. You can’t beat a genuine part book I have one covering KE35 and happy to help as long as you don’t want 100 numbers. And don’t ask me to copy it as it’s too big and awkward

You are over thinking it. 1 and 3 depend on which thermostat you use, but typically starts opening at 80 degrees Celsius and aims for a working temp of 82 degrees. High temp type is 88 degrees 2 is irrelevant and will depend on radiator cap type and condition 4 isn’t really relevant unless doing competition work or towing 6 needs to be not too high or the needle and seat won’t shut off from memory < 4psi 7 depends on compression ratio in your market/ modifications you may have made

My recollection is that you can use a TA22 swaybar which is obviously designed for a T engine. Can’t comment on width. I have a TE27 bar but haven’t compared it to a KE25 bar. Should be able to pick up a standard TA22 bar easily and cheaply. Try the Aus 1st gen Celica forum on FB

Front disc brakes were available in some markets but I don't think in the US. As long as you don't mind paying postage, you should be able to source the relevant parts easily. there is a write up in the wiki. You will find the wiki at the top left of the main page in the blue bar. It's also easier to fit larger discs from later corolla's which is also in the write up. Contemporary road test reports when the cars originally came out were critical of the brakes as barely sufficient

Have just finished reading part 1, which I had missed entirely. There’s some good stuff in there, with a younger Steve. Hopefully it will sort itself out. As I’ve got older, I have become more intolerant, and would probably just say f#%* it. But clearly you have had some good times together. Hope you are doing ok

Latest new arrival in the parrot shed, are gloves. I've resisted these for many years, I mean, how stupid are they. Can't feel anything, tools will slip, it's just a bit of oil with potentially dangerous contaminants etc. Well of course they are none of those things. Good feel, no cuts and nicks, and toasty warm. And when I had finished removing the front end, I was able to go in and cook dinner for the family without even washing my hands. I did wash my hands, but I did think twice about whether or not to bother. I'm a convert, but not going for those disposable rubber ones. Feedback on the cheapo Daytona jacks. One is a bit niggly with a touchy bleed valve that doesn't like to stay tight, so may have to take that back for a replacement.

I’m literally pulling one out right now snd swapping the TE27 one in. Other than coming in for a cuppa. It would be hellishly expensive to post. Sure yours can’t just be welded? Damage can’t be too bad, they are usually covered in oil.

it's been discussed at length. You will just have to search for it

Your out of my range now. Nothing bolt in is going to handle that. Whatever you choose is going to be custom

Not mine and old but presumbly accurate. http://members.iinet.com.au/~stepho/diff.htm#axlesize If you plan to put it in a KE25 it will require substantial cutting down and modification for leaf springs My TE27 doesn't have drums fitted currently so can't accurately measure for you, but someone I trust has posted up that a KE25 is 1320mm and from memory they are the same. I believe he then went to the substantial effort of getting a T series cut down properly and engineered here in Australia and it had to be specially offset for some technical reason I didn't understand. I sourced a couple of TE27 housings from Japan before prices went stupid, but may still be a sensible option if you can find one on yahoo japan. Will save you a lot if trouble, and probably easier to convert that to discs, than fitting a disc brake housing into KE25

Note I’ve measured to the centre of the factory hole in the centre of the tunnel reinforcement

I answered this a while back when I had both models, but the KE25 is gone now I’ve attached photos from a TE27 that should enable you to check definitively

I was going to see if I could get by with just the pair, but why make it hard for myself. I happened to buy the first two on a ‘trade day’, so got $50 of next purchase. So another pair for $179! Next thing is to sort out some long span shelving. I’d hoped to go with a two post hoist, but just not enough room unfortunately.

Got these hydraulic wheel jacks from Sydney tools and they are brilliant for moving the cars around in the shed. I was going to try and get away with a pair but will go back and get two more I think. $229 a pair. They actually work by squeezing the tyre up like a pimple. Pretty good, as long as they don’t break, but Corolla’s don’t weigh much.

Wow bargain! And a very nice wheel

Just tried downloading some of these and got an error message? Any one know why??

Is it worth it? It depends on what you plan on using the car for. If it’s a street car I would say no it isn’t. You will probably turn it into a poor handling pig that you hate. if you plan on it being a competition car and spend some time sorting it properly, maybe. Assuming it’s a daily driver street car, leave the strut tops alone and put some uprated, lowered variable rate springs and improved dampers in it and it will be great

It’s fine to use aftermarket, but you are going to need to measure accurately to decide which oversize bearing you need, and also consider whether your crankshaft needs resizing. And they are bearings, not bearing caps

AE82 and AE86 are different

Probably the rotor also. Was the motor previously running in this configuration, or did you stick some random distributor or cap onto it. You may quickly rack up the spending potentially unnecessarily.

Confident it's out of an AE92 bigport TVIS engine when you are buying parts for the distributor in future. That's not going to affect what your starter is doing though. If the starter is smoking there is a problem with how it's wired, and it it's happened on a couple of starters including one you know is good, it's going to be a loom issue.