parrot

My 2 cents don’t do it. The various sensors are there to give the ecu info it needs to run the engine optimally, and keep it idling properly. It probably already has a cold air feed from inside the guard. Pod filters make it noiser, suck hotter air inside the engine bay, plus it’s a defect if you get pulled over. A better bet is to find a high flow element for your stock airbox, and change it regularly

Same same. But most importantly (besides pics and a write up) what brand and part number were the inserts!

Here’s some info after a quick search of “KE20” with bananaman as author Also have a look and see if he has a build thread

And straight away, what do I find on the Facebook page. I reckon you would get it cheaper than that, but looks to good to use as a donor. Not what you want to do perhaps, but that’s the reality of a 4 afc. And in the long run it will always be worth more than your Nova I’m afraid, as tidy and cared for as it clearly is. Think hard before you go spending much on yours, as $3000 won’t go far unfortunately

That is incredibly clean!

As someone who has fitted 16 valve 4AGE’s into an AE82 and an AE86, do bear in mind it isn’t simply a matter of swapping the engines along with a few extra components. There are very many differences, especially with wiring looms, fuel systems and don’t forget suspension and brakes etc. If you are paying someone to do it, it will cost an absolute packet. Depending on what model Corolla you have, if there is a 4AGE equipped model in the same model range, think VERY seriously about finding one with a rough body and swapping EVERYTHING across. It will be far cheaper for you, and mechanically not too hard to do yourself. Its also a lot of fun

Hi Team Trying to work out if there are any practical differences in the clutch release cable between KE1x and KE2x? I would imagine fitment and length would be identical?

I can’t fault you there. It’s bloody awful having petrol dripping all over you. And running into the inevitably skinned knuckles

I consulted the archive, and have a KE55 brochure. The one with the red XX hardtop on the front. That car has Olympic Steelflex’s on it. Interestingly the SE & wagon only had fabric radials fitted, whereas the CS had steel belt radials. Can’t see the brands on the other models, but they were 155SR13’s on SE and ZR78S13’s on the CS & XX, so you could look at the specification and get an idea of how likely it is to be original.

If you are talking about GJM85’s modified struts, his actual for sale thread has them marked as sold a few years back

Somehow I have never read this thread. Not sure how that came about. But spending the weekend in a Airbnb beach house in Blairgowrie with Mrs Parrot and three 14 yr old girls so I’m sure I’ll find some time to get educated about farms and stuff.

Currently in the market for a new house. The cars have to fit! Either that or rent an offsite workshop! would be gut wrenching to have to sell off a car you literally know every nut and bolt of

What a crock. I suppose that’s the good thing about paypal, seem to have some recourse through them, but a lot of hassle

I threw an AE86 front cut out out once. It was many many years ago though. Now thinking seriously about selling my AE86 because of a lack of room. What a choice to make. The KE15SL or the TE27 or the AE86. But doubt I’ll be able to bring myself to do it

Which booking service did you use?

I’m involved in bone marrow transplantation and unfortunately see stories like this everyday. Things have changed substantially since I started in 1991, but some people still have a very hard time of it

Hmmm that sounds familiar. I became heartily sick of AE86DC also. Rollaclub was and remains a breath of fresh air. And that came down to good moderators

Also occurs to me, may be specifically designed to only fit properly in one direction

Oh well you might need to use some sort of adhesive to encourage it to stay on. I would use a rubber cement, but no need to overdo it

Let us know how you get on

It doesn’t look like there are any clips. I suspect it just sits there. I reckon you need to take the light out so you can fit the sealing ring over the ridge on the lamp body itself properly. It looks like you only need to remove one retaining screw for the assembly.

That’s looking pretty good!

I think I know what you mean but suspect it would be a good idea to post a picture. Helps to know the model also.

That’s fantastic news! Hopefully they have been able to identify the cause to prevent a recurrence?

How does it determine fuelling? Is there some sort of rudimentary ecu?