Banjo

Hey Luca, I wouldn’t be ripping the engine out, at this stage. Did you assemble the timing chain & alignment with the crankshaft pulley; or did others ? If it was you, did you follow the maunual instructions, & pay attention to the alignment, as described in my link, in pictures, in my previous post. You can test the timing, as I suggestedy; by taking out the spark plugs & turning the enigine over by hand & watching the rocker arm & push rods, relative to where the cranksaft pulley & distributor rotor are, at any given point of rotation. Many engine builders, place a large degree wheel on the flywheel, before the gearbox, is remated; which allows to accuraltely noting of the opening & closing angles of the inlet & exhaust valves on each cylinder. Is the cam in the engine standard, or a modified or performance version ? The dizzy doesn't have a wire that grounds it. The dizzy's ground/earth, is the engine block itself. Is the block securely grounded to chassis & negative terminal of the battery ? It must be or the starter motor would not work properly. The only wire to the dizzy, is the wire going to the ignition coil -ve terminal. You indicated that you have "points", so the dissy is obviously not a 5K electronic type. Just move the heater hose offending part, if it is that close. If the dissy is inserted & orientated correctly, it's electrical terminal shouldn't be anywhere close to heater hose clamps or earthed parts. As to the boucing around of the timing light strobe, I can only suggest that vacuum line is pulsating, due to leakage at the manifold, Whilst it is boucing around, pinch the hose to the dizzy, closed; & see if that stops is fluctuating. If it does, then it is a fluctuating vaccuum that is causing the issue. Cheers Banjo

Hey Luca, As you've indicated that you thought maybe the distributor gear cog was out maybe, 1 or 2 teeth, I thought I'd look up our forum, & see if we had ever posted any advice or instructions, as to how to go about this. I'm sure we have; but can't seem to find anything. This is one action, a lot of K Series owners have a problem with. The oil pump is driven by the camshaft; but only when the distributor shaft is in place., as you well know, after placing your drill down the dizzy hole & spinning it, when chasing the oil pressure issue. The trick is, to place the slot in the oil pump, with a screw driver, in exactly the right position; so that when the distributor shaft engages & slews clockwise, that the dog flat on the end of the dizzy shaft drops straight into the slot on the top of the oil pump shaft. It usually takes 2 or 3 tries to get it right. However, it has to finish up with the rotor button, pointing in the right position. I'm sure the Japanese worker at Toyota, back in the 1960-70, could do this in his sleep, with his eyes closed, but as we do it ever so often, it takes a bit of effort & care. The very first thing, is to make sure the engine crankshaft is at no: 1 TDC. It's a good idea, to fit the rotor button to the dizzy, whist inserting it, & placing a mark where no: spark plug lead post is, on the outer alloy edge of the dizzy. If it does line up perfectly, when the dissy is fully inserted, & the advance / retard protusion on the dissy body is parallel to the block; then carefully remove; reposition the slot in the oil pump, with a screw driver, & then turn the dizzy shaft the same amount, in the same direction, & reinsert. Next time, I do this on my engine, I'll take a couple of pics, & add them to this description. Cheers Banjo

Hi Luca, I understand that this is a great learning curve for you, but understand, that an engine that is not "running correctly", can't necessarily be attributed to one thing, that is "not quite right". More importantly; this is a 5K engine that has been rebuilt from scratch, with some mods, such as solid camshaft lifters; so everything is initially suspect. Engines can run, but not well, due to one or more small aspects, being "just not quite right". example: Just imagine if when the camshaft sprocket was fitted; if the "location pin" was omitted, or the timing chain was out one link. If I was in Noosa, & could come around to assist you, I'd start right at the beginning. The first thing I'd do was check the valve/cam timing. This does not require stripping the engine, but may involve say taking the rocker cover off, to watch the valves in detail. I discovered recently, when I fitted a 5K crankshaft pulley to a 4K motor, that the timing marks are in different places on a 4K & 5K pulley & timing chain cover. The most important starting point, is that the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, when lined up with the timing chain cover, is in the correct place. Don't assume if others have assembled the motor, that the crankshaft pulley is in the correct alignment. What it the key had been omitted, & the crankshaft pulley was out any number of degrees. That is your base timing starting point. The next place I would check, is the cam/valve timing. This involves, removing all spark plug, & rocker cover, (although can be accomplished looking down the oil filler nech with a pen torch), & checking that number 1 cylinder inlet valve fully closes, approximately 90 deg BTDC, or a quarter of a crankshaft turn; before no: 1 piston gets to the TDC (compression stroke), while slowly turning the crankshaft clockwise with a big ring spanner, on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/71502-fitting-k-series-camshaft-timing-chain/ This is the most important first step. It has been known, on this forum, that the timing chain & or camshaft sprocket, have not been fitted correctly, & lined up. We have had cases of the "location pin" for the camshaft & it's sprocket, being left out, or has sheared off. We've had the camshaft sprocket chain out one link, as the marks on the sprocket * crankshaft pulley, did not line up when a straight line was drwan through the centre of camshaft & crankshaft. Once all that is tested, & proves OK, then you can be confident, that when you insert the distributor, that the camshaft is correctly timed. While you have the rocker cover off, I would also be maybe rechecking the head bolt tensions, & checking the valve to rocker clearances & contact points, as presumably you have had to change the complete rocker gear, as the engine originally had hydraulic valve lifters. After that basic timing testing & checking, then all the other aspects, like dizzy timing/points/inlet leakage/mainifold gasket/carby butterfly closing & balance can be addressed one by one. At that stage, a very good instrument, to have fitted to your engine is a simple vacuum gauge. It tells you so much about where you can't see, inside the inlet mainfold tract. Here is an article & good read from years ago, which includes some salient points, now that you are getting to the "pointy" end of setting advance etc. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73377-distributor-vacuum-advance/ Next time, I'm in Noosa, I'll give you a yell, & we'll catch up, as I'm also a great fan of the 5K engine, as being one of the best of the K Series engines. Cheers Banjo

Hi Luca, Here is a link to the instructions regarding the problems with manifold gasket leakages, & the way to go about fixing it. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/74148-one-piece-manifold-gasket-k-series/?tab=comments#comment-715486 Cheers Banjo

The timing light cannot advance or retard the timing on your engine. That is a physical function, that can only be accomplished by the distributor advance/retard mechanisms; or if you unclamp the dizzy, & rotate it either clockwise or anticlockwise. Those timing lights, are designed such, that you turn the knob, at idle, until the crankshaft pulley line lines up with the zero/TDC mark on the timing chain cover. The readout on the fancy timing light will then be the advance or retard degrees at idle. Then increase the revs, & the flash should occur, such that the crankshaft pulley timing mark, is strobing earlier/advanced. If your dizzy is out, it is probably only 1 tooth. There are lots of posts on Rollaclub, describing how to move the dissy position, one tooth backwards or forward. It is a bit tricky, as the dizzy rotates slightly, as it is lowered into place. The trick is to ensure the rotor button, is in the correct place & alignment, & doesn't run out of arc. The engine will run, one tooth off; but not well. Everything else being perfect, this is the most critical setting to get the timing right. I technique I use is to take the dizzy cap off, & place 4 marks around the edge of the dizzy alloy edge, with whiteout, right opposite each spark plug lead post. Then take all four spark plugs out, & turn the engine over by hand, to ensure the "arc of the rotor", is aligned on it's trailing edge, with the white mark/s, at about 10-12 degrees before TDC. Get that right, & you will be sweet. Cheers Banjo

Hi Luca, The engine cannot be running well, but have timing out by 60 degrees, as you advise. What sort of timing light are you using. Is it a simple one, or one of those where you can adjust the reading forwards or backwards until it lines up with TDC, whereupon , you read then advance off the timing light ? When you "checked cyl #1 is firing via the inlet rocker", was the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lining up with the zero timing mark on the timing chain cover ? Assuming that is alright, you could well have the distributor out one or two teeth when it was inserted, into the block. If the dizzy advances automatically, & the rotor arc does not result in the rotor lining up with the spark plug lead post for that cylinder, then all sorts of things can happen. This is an engine I believe that has been rebuilt, or at least disembled & reassembled. If you are convinced that the crankshaft pulley is installed with the key in the keyway, & with no: 1 cylinder definitely at TDC, then you can be assured at the timing chain & camshaft sprocket have been fitted correctly & aligned, during reassembly. Other things to look for, are the carbon block & it's tiny spring, in the inside top centre of the dizzy cap. Well known intermittent failure point, once load or revs are increased. Cheers Banjo

Hi Pete, Yes, 50+ years olde ! Apparently, the climate there is pretty dry, hence the vehicles have not suffered from major rust issues. What a waste. So many enthusiasts all over the world, would gladly take on restoring these all, to their former glory. P.S. We've got the boys here at Claytons Towing, in Qld. , just rearing to go, as soon as the UN gives us permission ? Cheers Banjo

Apparently, Toyota has shown interest in funding, to retrieve them. It was pointed out to Toyota, that the olde Toyotas, are not the UN's to give away. They belong to someone, somewhere; & when the dispute is settled, they will be handed back to their rightful owners or "heirs" (That's if the original owners are still alive) Looks like I might have to hook up the trailer to my KE30, & head that way quickly, & start taking them out; to a safe place (Orange NSW ?) N.B. The UN peacekeepers looked like nice guys; & I'm sure we'd find an Aussie amongst them ? Cheers Banjo

I watched a documentary over the weekend, where a reporter & camera crew entered the UN demilitarised zone through the centre of the city of Nicosia, in Cyprus. This zone was apparently, put in place in the 1960-70s, by the UN; & is a no go zone, for those living on either side of it. It is a moment in time frozen; as nothing has be touched for 50+ years. As the reporter & film crew went through the zone, under UN military police escort, they stopped & looked in some buildings. They walked into an old Toyota dealership. There were lots of olde Toyota Corollas therein, looking the worst for wear & tear of the elements. What was incedible was that some of these Corollas, had mileage readings, on their speedo of 38 klms, & similar. They were basically brand new, when the "no go" zone was created. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Nicosia+UN+zone+Old+cars&sxsrf=ALiCzsaSNzFjZGr-B44ZXyAs9vxu9kr81Q:1670244072618&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiywIuFwOL7AhVVzTgGHXblDbcQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1600&bih=757&dpr=1#imgrc=pWhW-1l2PcyWKM Maybe we should write to the UN, & see if we can't rescue a few of them ? This world is full of strange things ! Cheers Banjo

Well the 200mm dia. aluminium trigger disk is working better than I could have dreamed of. The TAARK dual Hall Effect sensor, is far more sensitive than the "ebay" sensors, I had been experimenting with. Because the dual Hall effect sensor is so sensitive, to both North & South pole magnets, with air gaps achieved of 3-5mm; there has been no need to revert to larger diameter 10mm rare earth magnets. In fact if I had used them, the break in the pulse train, as the sensor passes from one magnet to the next; would have resulted in a very short break between pulsing signals. I've stuck with the 4mm dia. magnets, & pressed the 36 magnets into the disc, as follows . . . 17 south pole: 1 north pole: 17 south pole: 1 north pole. The outputs from the two (2) north & south pole sensors are "OR'd" together, with the 34 pulses (2 x 17) from the south polev magnets; to produce a continuous unbroken string of pulses, that will be used for high resolution of crankshaft rotational speed calculation. The two (2) north pole magnets, spaced exactly 180 degrees apart on the alumimium disc, will produce a total of four (4) pulses, for each full cycle of the engine, whiich is 2 revolutions of the crankshaft, or 720 degrees. The pulse from these two (2) north poles will produce 4 equally spaced pulses 180 degrees apart, for every full cycle, or two (2) crankshaft revolutions. These can be used, in conjuction with the Camshaft Position Sensor pulse, to direct the outputs sequentially, based on the 1-3-4-2 firing order. If it was a 6 cylinder engine, the magnets would be pressed into the aluminium disc, as 11 south, 1 north, 11 south, 1 north, 11 south, 1 north. Again a total of 36 magnets, but just arranged differently. Nice clean square pulses on the CRO, from the trigger wheel at about 1500 RPM Opto Couplers X 3, with "ORing" circuitry for continuous stream of "speed" pulses, With a few LEDs, so I can see clearly, what is happening. All good fun, & almost time to start a "bit of coding", to tie it all together. Cheers Banjo

Hi Matthew, Glad you sorted that one out OK. Everything electrical in a car, needs a good earth; particularly something that sources or consumes large amperes, such as an alternator. Good one ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Matthew, Go to this link in Rollaclub. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73991-ke20-alt-wiring/#comments I found an olde post where someone else got caught doing an alternator upgrade, & in that post is a sketch, that should get you sorted. Yell out, if you are still having issues. Cheers Banjo

Hi Matthew, Sounds like there is something amiss. I do recall there was something different with the way the charge light wa needed to be connected up. Let me take a look at my KE30, & I'll see how it was done. Too long ago, to remember the details. Cheers Banjo

Hi Matthew, Can you do a quick sketch of how you have wired it up ? I've done that mod years ago on an early Rolla, & don't ever recall having any real issues. If you supply a sketch, We'll soon see where the issue is. I'm presuming you have removed & disconnected the olde external regulator box ? Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard; & what a find ! It appears that the speedo, is indicating it has travelled just under 40,000 klms. That seems unlikely. if the car has been sitting there for 25 years, then when it entered the junk yard, it was already 28 years olde. Highly unlikely, that it would only travelled approximately 1500 klms each year since new. Where about are you located, & are spares available readily ? Are you " enticed", to return it to original, or upgrade it all round ? Before, I removed a bolt or panel anywhere, I would see if you can get the engine going, although, that is a big ask, as the engine has been in the weather, without a air cleaner on it, so may well be "frozen". Congratulations, & let us know what you decide, & start a thread, on Rollaclub, & keep us posted. We love these type of "projects" Cheers Banjo

Over the weekend, I experimented a little more & resolved a couple of issues. The 12mm dia. Hall Effect sensor, I was using (NJK-5002C) is certainly a useful device for proving, that this experiment will work. It reacts to a south pole magnet face only. I had played with a 8mm dia. similar Hall sensor, that turned out, to switch to both north & south poles, & even to the aluminium plate if it was very close ? ? ? It It was a LJ8A3-2-ZBX. I gave that one away, as being useful, or appropriate for this application. So I now have two NJK-5002C Hall sensors side by side. One counting the 18 off 5mm dia. south pole magnets around the peripheral of my 150mm aluminium disk, without any missing magnet/tooth. The second Hall sensor, is 20mm further inboard on the disk, in-line with the first sensor & disc centre point; but only picks up the one "sychronisation south pole magnet", per crankshaft revolution. I hooked the dual channel CRO up to the two sensors, & they were clean, & no missing pulses at all, with the engine on the stand, run up to a bit over 3000 RPM. With the 10mm larger dia. magnets I will be using later, on the 200mm disc; the magnetic field will be stronger & I can probably incease the air gap between disk/magnet face, & the sensor face. Currently running at about 2mm, but with a larger & stronger magnet, it should be possible to achieve gaps of 3-5mm. The rare earth magnets, come in a multitude of difference sizes, & there are three (3) commonly available strengths; of N35, N50 & N52. N52 is the strongest. I did resolve another issue I had, which was "air gap" variance, as a result of slight run-out of the aluminiun disc, in the "planar mode" (across the face of the aluminium disc). The 150mm & 200mm aluminium disks I am using are 6mm thick. They are very rigid. The are mounted primarilary; via the crankshaft pulley centre bolt. There are additional threaded holes in the crankshaft pulley for either attaching a "puller", to remove the pulley, or to sandwich an additional pulley, as in the case of the 5K engine, which had up to three (3) pullies, depending on it's application. I have used these to locate the aluminium disk, "rotationally". However, when adding a nut to the studs, is distorts the aluminium plate, ever so slightly, however well you try to shim it at the back. I decided to remove the nuts, & the air gap then did not vary at all. I could cut the studs down a bit, put a screwdriver slot in them, & "thread locker" them in, & they will still act as locators of the trigger disc. Alternatively, I could dispense with them altogether, & just fit a slightly longer crankshaft location key, in the keyway; & file a small keyway in the aluminium disk, at the point where the synchronisation pulse appears at it idea position, (encoder wise). A lot of ECU decoders, don't like the sychronisation pulse occurring at the same time as any other event. I may have to move the sychronisation magnet, so that it occurs between the pulses on the outer edge, rather than in line. Easy fix, if necessary. I have discovered, in recent days, that there is available, a Hall Effect sensor, for automotive applications; with two (2) sensors built into the one housing. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/dual-channel-hall-sensor-suits-taarks-hall-kits One sensor provides an output, when facing a "south pole" of a magnet, & the other, provides a sencond output, when a north pole face comes along. This provides a great opportunity, to simplify the system, with just two sensors, rather than three, for sequential ECU operation. It would simply involve fitting one of the magnets, on the peripheral of the disk with a north pole. (press the magnet it the opposite way around). This would result with a synchronisation pulse, once per crankshaft revolution, from the sensor reacting to the "north pole". The second Hall Effect sensor, within the housing, would react to 35 of the 36 magnets around the peripheral, of the disk. It's output would in fact appear to have to a "missing magnet". However, if the outputs of both sensors were "OR'd" together, the result would be a continuous string of pulses, with no missing pulse at all. One other thing I discovered, in recent days, is that the Hall Effect sensor, inside the sensor housing, are usually much smaller in area that the cross sectional area of the sensor housing itself, & is not necessarily at the centre of the sensor face, I broke one sensor accidentally, & discovered this. So very pleased with progress to date, & now it is time to replicate this on a 200mm aluminium disk, with maybe just two (2) physical sensors, instead of three. For Waste Spark/Batch Injection, you could get away with just one sensor housing, with two (2) indivual sensors therein. 1. Crankshaft Speed Sensor CKS 2. Camshaft Positianal Sensor CAS 3. Crankshaft Synchronisation Sensor SYN Cheers Banjo

The 200mm x 6mm thick aluminium disk arrived in the mail this afternoon. I purchased the blank on ebay, from a company in Victoria, who mills them. Very good quality & service ! Bit over $ 21.00 + postage. So it's a "blank canvass", & not having any CNC equipment, I had to go back to school, to "geometry days", to prepare this plate for drilling. I experimented with the 150mm dia. one I made previously, so had a plan. If anyone, wants to replicate this, it is quite easy. Just takes a bit of time & patience. It is not one of those activities you can rush; because if you stuff it up, then you are back to "square one". The first thing we need to do, is find & make the centre of the aluminium disc, as that is absolutely crucial, if it is all going to work. I tried all geometrical ways to find the centre, but each time, the centre was off a mm, or two. My final technique required no tools at all, or geometric instruments really. Technique: 1. First clean & dry the disc carefully, to remove any oil. 2. Lay the disk on a clean sheet of A4 white paper. ( 200mm dia. disc, is slightly narrower, than the A4 sheet. 3. Holding the disc down hard against the paper, run a Artline pen (0.4 or 0.5) around the edge of the disc a couple of times. 4. Remove the disc, & taking a pair of large, sharp siccors; cut around the edge of the circle on the sheet of paper. When you cut the paper, cut carefully around the inside of the line, rather than the outside. The result should be a white circle with little or no remains. of the line you marked. 5. Lay the paper flat, & carefully fold it in exactly half. Rub along the crease line, while folded, so the crease line is very "distinct". 6. Take the semicircle of paper, & again fold it exactly in half; & again, ensure the crease line is very defined. 7. Now open up the folded circle of paper, & the point where the crease lines cross, is the exact centre of the circle. 8 Draw a straight line across the circle of paper, on both of the crease lines. 9. Using the centre point, scribe a circle around the circle, just in from the circumference edge. In my case that was 10mm. 10. Take the biggest protractor, you can get hold of, & placing the cross hair point on the centre of the circle, mark the point around, at the number of degrees you need, which will depend on your preference. I wanted a 36 tooth/magnet trigger wheel, so each mark was spaced at 10 degrees. 11. What you finish up with is a circle of paper, that looks something like this. 12. Now, take the circle of paper & lay it on the disk. I now becomes obvious why I suggest cutting on the inside of the circle line intially, as it is extremely difficult to centre it, if the paper is just overhanging the edge of the disk. 13. I suggest doing this, with the disk & paper hanging slightly over the edge of your table or desk; so that when you have is perfectly centred, you can apply 4 or 8 pieces of clear sticky tape, that sticks to the underside of the disk. 14. So that's it ! Now place the disk, & paper template on a bench, & with a small, sharp centre punch, carefully "centre punch", the central point of the disk, & all the peripheral holes, that are to be drilled for the magnets. 15. Drilling the holes should ideally be carried out, using a drill stand, with the aluminium disc, clamped down. Always start off with a small drill, & then keep enlarging them, until you get them to the size you need. The outer ring of holes, where the magnets are to be fitted, should be drilled about 0.5mm undersize, to the diameter of the magnet; so the magnets can be pressed into the alumium disk. When I get to the next stage, I'll post the results. P.S. Anyone wanting to know how Hall Effect sensors work, would find this article interesting. https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/electromagnetism/hall-effect.html Our application here, is passing the pole of the magenet, across the face (sideways detection) of the Hall Effect sensor. Cheers Banjo

Been doing a bit of experimenting with an aluminium disk (150mm dia.) with rare earth magnets, with none missing. I then have an additional single rare earth magnet, in-board slightly, in line with one of the 18 magnets around the circumference. The experiment has been very sucessful, as my objective was to build a "flying magnet" trigger disk/wheel; without any missing teeth or magnets. The next step, is to move up a 200mm dia. disk, so that I can space the magnets around the circumference, with a slightly larger distance between them. Currently, I have a bracket holding the two (2) Hall Effect sensors, mounted from the block, using the two threaded holes for the A/C mounting. I have recently also located a Hall Effect sensor, that has two sensors in one housing. One detects south pole magnets, & the other north pole magnets. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/dual-channel-hall-sensor-suits-taarks-hall-kits It should then be possible to fit 36 off disc magnets around the circumference of the 200mm aluminium disk. 35 would be south pole facing the sensor, & one would have the north pole facing the sensor. The single from the north pole sensor, would be the synch signal, & the same north pole signal, could be "OR'd" with all the south pole signal pulses, so that a continuous stream of pulses, with no missing teeth, is possible. Cheers Banjo

My KE30 is not going off the road, unless it's cancer gets so bad, I have to bury it. As for gearbox issues, there is a very simple solution, that I envisage accomplishing. Simply leave the gearbox stuck, permanently in top gear, & then develop the engine, so that it has so much HP, that you never have to have change gear again. You'll always be able to reface clutch plates ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKGiQgxgVzg Cheers Banjo

Hi Pasha, A very easy, & worthwhile conversion. Certainly, starting with a manual, rather than an auto, as I did, makes the amount of work a lot easier. 5 speed boxes are getting harder to come by, & many are now "long in the tooth". (No pun intended) The best 5 speed gearbox, is the one that came out in the KE70. It has the gearstick back a bit further, than the earlier K50 gear boxes. It places the gearstick in a really good position. Only trouble is, that if the KE70 5 speed gearbox you get hold of; needs some parts; things like bearings, are getting very hard to come by. If you use the 5 speed box from a KE70, makes sure you get hold of the rear gearbox cross member. You may have to "massage" the hole in the top of the floor transmission hump, but that is best done, after you do a trial fit. Other than that, it's all very easy. Before you start, just check what diff ratio, your KE30 has. There was a couple of ratios used, & the KE30 auto had a horrible one, like 4.3 or something. The best diff to go with your 5 speed box, would probably be a BW one, where I think the ratio was something like 3.98, or thereabouts. Also, make sure the reversing light switch on the gearbox, is working, before you install, & has wires attached long enough, as once it is in the car, up in position, it's almost impossible to get at the reversing switch. Lets know how you go. Where are you located ? Cheers Banjo

A timing light is one of the most useful tools you can have, besides a 10, 12, 13, & 14mm combination ring & open ended spanners; & a hammer as well. Don't need a fancy one, where you can dial in degree delays itc. Just a plain no frills one. It tells you dynamically; more than whether the timing is correct. It also tells you whether the auto advance & retard mechanism, in your dizzy is working or not. Would not be without one. ebay is your friend there ! $ 30+ approx. Cheers Banjo

I just added one answer to my previous post. The plug in your hand I don't instantly recognise. Does the lead on which this plug is, go back into the main wiring harness ? Is your KE38 an auto or manual ? I listened to your video, & although it doesn't appear to have all the exhaust system connected, as yet; if the timing is out, it is not very much. Do you happen to have a timing light to check it dynamically ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Luca, The little carbon bush that is "spring loaded" in the inside centre/to of the dissy cap, is quite often the problem. The fine spring behind the carbon rubbing bush actually passes the HV current, & can corrode to become very thin, then break.. However, I have had a centre bush fairly recently; collapse altogether, & the engine ran perfectly. Probably because I was using a Hi Volts output coil, which allowed the spark to jump the large gap. Unless the four (4) posts in the dissy cap, are very, very corroded, such that the gap between rotor tip, & 1, 3., 4, & 2 posts in the cap, is very large, it can sometime make the engine run better. The spark will often jump a bigger gap, in "free outside air"; than at the spark plug tip, under compression in the cylinder. This technique was used regularly by racers, in the old days, to increase the HV supplied to the spark plug. That black lead with a yellow strip, is an engine earth or ground cable. You''ll probably find the other end is connected to the engine block, towards the rear. The bit you show in your hand goes to the head and/or rocker cover. Have you had the dissy out ? if so it maybe out a little. There are heaps of instructions on the forum, regarding how to refit the dissy, & get the timing right. Cheers Banjo

Yep ! Always need that cooling water ! Was thinking about "plopping" it all in my neighbours "swimming pool", but She is a bit of a dragon, so I don't think that would end nicely. The electical generator has always been my preferred option. I guess I am still going to need a clutch & a straight through gearbox, to actually get it started, & up & away. Talking about starting; I'm actually experimenting at present. Lots of people complain, about no instant starting with ECUs, as it can take "up to two revolutions of the crankshaft, before the ECU "synchronises", & then fires a spark plug for the first time. Some ECUs apparently, start in waste spark, & then as soon as it fires, it switches back over to sequential ignition & injectors. I'm looking at a way of getting it to fire within 1/4 of a turn of the crankshaft, under the starter motor. Requires another sensor, but that's no big deal. Just drilling up a new trigger wheel/disk, to see if it is possible. Would love to get away from having that "missing tooth" requirement, on the primary crank trigger wheel. What system do you use on Josh's rally cars ? Cheers Banjo

Not quite to that point, as yet. Think you & I canvassed this idea some time back. Have looked at a few utube videos, for D.I.Y. at home; using water type engine dynos, which can be tricky. Simplest system seems to be to use a automatic transmission torque converter, from a car a bit bigger than our Rollas, & hang a bar off it rotationally, to which we can add or subtract weights, to produce a quanative load, in foot pounds or whatever ? Any suggestions gratefully received. Cheers Banjo