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clovertex

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    Ben

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  1. Pain. Misery. I'm at uni so only get time to work on her some weekends, so I tend to order parts during the week. After removing the exhaust extractors and intake manifold for the millionth time and throwing away the shitey 2 piece gasket that's about a month old I took another look at the allignment of the faces between the exhaust / intake with a steel ruler and there was a discreptancy of around 6 to 7 thou on the feeler gauge as suspected. The thickness of all the tabs (as banjo describes) were honest to god exactly the same. Thick washers were present on every bolt and stud securing the assembly to the engine block, so I had no concerns there. What I did notice is that the exhaust ports on either side of the piece were raised significantly higher than the 2 centre ports on the extractor manifold and also on the intake. I opted to sand the 2 offending faces down to where they were within a couple thou of the rest of the piece. I've already had the alluminium intake sent to a machine shop to get refaced, where they actually mangaged to snap one of the mounting holes off that I needed to get rewelded, throwing another spanner in the works trying to get her alligned. Anyway I got a new one piece, 3 layer fancy gasket and a tube full of high temperature RTV sealer that I generously spread on EITHER SIDE and left for 24hrs to cure after being torqued up to block. I slept easy that night knowing that there was no chance of leak the next afternoon. I don't know what sin I committed in a previous life but it's done rock all and the vac leak is still horrendous. The whole thing is such a hideous mess that there is also a new crack that's shown itself next to the bolt holes on the aluminum. I'm at my wits end so have ordered a new old stock 17110-13110 assembly with both manifolds that came up on ebay. The bank is now broken and student loan obliterated so I'm hanging my hopes on this new unit. Will keep this updated.
  2. As with this example off ebay, my intake / exhaust bolt holes don't make perfect circles when the two pieces are bolted together at the back. The gap between the aluminium and steel is inconsistent between both sides also, and I'm thinking this could be screwing up the positioning of the gasket. Assumed this is due to the soft alluminum intake moving rather than the exhaust extractor. Considering sourcing a whole new piece at this rate.
  3. So mixed news! After taking apart the carb, cleaning out the idle circuitry and reajusting the idle mixture screw to one and a quarter turns she was finally purring nicely at idle. I'm embarrased to admit that through all this I found a vaccum port the size of a small planet running straight to the manifold that I neglected to plug up. I got her out of the shed and took her for a proper spin for the first time which was very rewarding. Also got the new aluminum spark plug tubes in and a fresh PCV valve installed, despite the old one looking mostly fine. Throughout the week she started to deteriate and the idle problem creeped back, and I'd be stalling every time I'd coast to a stop on the road. After retesting for vac leaks with the old soapy water spray bottle trick (pictured) whilst spraying compressed air into the intake, I discovered a worsening leak on the intake manifold gasket. I'd literally replaced the gasket a week prior so really didn't expect this to be an issue. I did't use any gasket sealer, as non of the litrature on the engine mentioned it (and frankly I didn't know it existed) but after talking to some local buddies they recommended it. What do you think? I've sanded the aluminum face of the intake as flat as I could (pictured) to remove any pitting on the surface, and torquing the bolts any tighter doesn't seem to have an effect. Anyone who's had their 4k intakes off know they come in two pieces and the gaskets are wierdly combined with the exhaust ports and the intake ports, and come in two serperate pieces for each end. I think there are some aftermarket ones that come as a single piece. On a different topic, the bottom of the door panels are really starting to crumble. I will work on getting a clear picture up soon. I've got no experience with metal work, so I'd would have to be a shop job if it were to be patched up. I've seen some decently priced door skins available though, so might it be more efficient to replace the entire thing? I'm really not sure of the work involved on those, but each time the door opens more bits fall off haha. Any recommendations or wise words would greatly be apprecitated, thanks! 😁
  4. Cheers guys I've read countless numbers of both your comments and posts on this forum so appreciate the reply. I'll get a new PCV valve on it today, order new aluminium tubes and set that idle mixture screw out one and a half turns. Just been for another can of carby cleaner too so will give it another wash focusing on the idle circuit. Will keep this updated 💪
  5. Got myself a KE70 wagon with a 4K roughly two years ago as my first project car and have been working on it on and off. The whole time I've been struggling to get it idling nicely. I've refreshed the entire ignition system, replaced the intake maifold gasket and isolated every vac system to elimiate potential vac leaks, but I'm still having issues. Anyway, I notice after the car has sat for a while, every spark plug is either wet with fuel (or oil I can't tell) around the plug and pooling underneath the metal boot thing they sit in. There are also usually carbon deposits around the tip of the plug. After giving them a clean she will idle for a while nicely only to start stalling and spluttering again. I feel as though it could be running lean, however adjusting the idle mixture screw is very touch and go. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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